Hi Ralf, Great job! My right shaft was frozen and wouldn’t come apart, so I winded up buying a new drive shaft and postponed the left one, as those boots are still sealing. I am not sure, but 27:54 into the video I can see your differential drain plug and it appears the plug is not fully turned in? With greetings from Kansas Peter 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really good video! All of your videos are great actually 🙂 It would be cool to see a differential service. I think it's pretty easy - but I'm curious the steps you do (do you re-use the plug? is there a washer? I think I have the 14mm hazet socket) and what kind of gear oil. Thanks for making these videos!
Hello my friend If you use boiling hot water and put them in a large pot and turn on the fire for ten minutes, it would be better, and then wash them with gasoline. This method is quick, not tiring, and practical.😊😶
That is yet another new one I have not heard. It is worth a try for sure. What do you do with the waste water? How do you make sure that absolutely no water is left in the CV joint?
@@straybenzes The type of water does not matter, the important thing is to place the pieces in boiling water whose temperature exceeds one hundred degrees Celsius Leave the dirty pieces in the pot that is boiling intensely due to the fire being lit under the pot for a period of not less than 15 minutes. You will see the dirty pieces very clean We do this with engines that are dirty and contaminated with oil, sand or dirt Do this this way and you will thank me, my friend Remember that the best way to remove grease is boiling water🙂🙂
@@straybenzes one tip. To gain best access to the c clip groove, you might use a crowbar in the groove to pry and draw in the axle completely. You need all the groove exposed
I used to do a lot of work on my 85 300d, but I don't think I'd have tackled that job. As many miles as you have on that thing, I'd have considered just replacing the cv joints as well. I'm sure those ball bearings are worn down. Thanks for the video, Ralph. Did you do the other side, too?
The have the 126, 107, 124, 123, 201 listed as forever Benzes for a good reason. The shafts and CV joints are made to last. This set as well as all others I have rebuild showed no wear and had no excessive play. Only severe lowering or lifting kit installs are putting extra stress on them as will prolonged running with busted CV boots.
If you have the money for OEM ones, yes. I will take a fresh rebuild set like this over any new non OEM ones anytime. All moving elements on this set as all others I have done so far had no visible wear and they had no play. The Benz engineers thoroughly overengineered these and only severe lift or lowering kit installs and running with busted CV boots for too long will destroy these CV joints.
Nice work. Thank you for sharing!
😃
Gut gemacht, Ralph. Danke
Bitte, bitte!
Great Ralph
Thank you!
Hi Ralf,
Great job! My right shaft was frozen and wouldn’t come apart, so I winded up buying a new drive shaft and postponed the left one, as those boots are still sealing.
I am not sure, but 27:54 into the video I can see your differential drain plug and it appears the plug is not fully turned in?
With greetings from Kansas
Peter
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, Peter. I also did the diff stub shaft seals and that is why the plug had to also come out. :)
Big oldtimer Mercedes-Benz owner and fan here. Good edutainment video, thanks for posting.🐞
That is a new word I have not seen or heard. Will steal it with your permission.
Really good video! All of your videos are great actually 🙂 It would be cool to see a differential service. I think it's pretty easy - but I'm curious the steps you do (do you re-use the plug? is there a washer? I think I have the 14mm hazet socket) and what kind of gear oil. Thanks for making these videos!
Hello my friend
If you use boiling hot water and put them in a large pot and turn on the fire for ten minutes, it would be better, and then wash them with gasoline. This method is quick, not tiring, and practical.😊😶
That is yet another new one I have not heard. It is worth a try for sure. What do you do with the waste water? How do you make sure that absolutely no water is left in the CV joint?
@@straybenzes The type of water does not matter, the important thing is to place the pieces in boiling water whose temperature exceeds one hundred degrees Celsius
Leave the dirty pieces in the pot that is boiling intensely due to the fire being lit under the pot for a period of not less than 15 minutes.
You will see the dirty pieces very clean
We do this with engines that are dirty and contaminated with oil, sand or dirt
Do this this way and you will thank me, my friend
Remember that the best way to remove grease is boiling water🙂🙂
@@loaialtmiimi4426 Thanks!
I just did this job. I think the hardest part is putting back the C clips.
Indeed, they can be a royal PIA to put back in place.
@@straybenzes one tip. To gain best access to the c clip groove, you might use a crowbar in the groove to pry and draw in the axle completely.
You need all the groove exposed
@@daveyvane Indeed you do. Thanks
I used to do a lot of work on my 85 300d, but I don't think I'd have tackled that job.
As many miles as you have on that thing, I'd have considered just replacing the cv joints as well. I'm sure those ball bearings are worn down.
Thanks for the video, Ralph.
Did you do the other side, too?
The have the 126, 107, 124, 123, 201 listed as forever Benzes for a good reason. The shafts and CV joints are made to last. This set as well as all others I have rebuild showed no wear and had no excessive play. Only severe lowering or lifting kit installs are putting extra stress on them as will prolonged running with busted CV boots.
what is the torque value for the new six bolts? Is it 51 ft-Ibs? Is blue Locktite needed for them?
51 is a good number for these bolts and a little dab of blue Loctite is a good idea.
OK what grease was that you are using? Also what about some 80-90 w gear lube in their as well
I only use the CV joint lube that comes with the rebuild kits. It has worked flawlessly so far.
Certainly you would want to just put in new half shafts. After a job like that I'd want those cv bearings to be at zero time
If you have the money for OEM ones, yes. I will take a fresh rebuild set like this over any new non OEM ones anytime. All moving elements on this set as all others I have done so far had no visible wear and they had no play. The Benz engineers thoroughly overengineered these and only severe lift or lowering kit installs and running with busted CV boots for too long will destroy these CV joints.