WOW the quality of your mask and combination of your color matching ,and painting skills are just sublime,outstanding painting skills. 👏👏👏👏 looking forward to your next video. We'll done Lou
Looks great sir. On my k’tinga I removed the plastic window sections between the top portions and laid the photo etched windows right on the clear inserts, around the bulb I dug out all those windows,filled the giant holes with micro crystal clear and used the photo etch. Using the PL light kit,this was the way to go from twinkling to actually lit windows. A lot of work to avoid soldering!😂😂😂 As soon as Cult has yer masks I can start!
The only reason I do not buy the Ktinga or the Kronos is that I cannot decide how to paint it; The Ktigna studio model is supposed to be shades of green, yet when I see them flying on screen in TMP they're grey The Kronos studio model is very colorful, yet when I see it next to the NCC1701A in Star Trek 6, its also sheds of grey with maybe some matted colors (yes, I have a color tv) I usually never paint my models like its a studio replica, but the way they're presented on film. But with these Klingon D7 cruisers, I wonder if painting them grey would be an insult?
A lot of the detail gets washed out in the lighting and filming. I sometimes wonder if they overdo it, because they know if they dont, then nothing will show. The refit had a ton of detail that never showed up on film.
looking amazing my friend great work as usual painting masks do make all the difference i only use yours know but buying from cult tv man shipping cost is killing me in the uk
Hey Lou! I wanted to say i really enjoyed your videos! Watching you got me back into building after may years break. Just wanted to ask if you might do a 350 scale Refit because I'm about attempt one myself. 😊 Was hoping to pick up some tips before i started. Once again love your stuff and thanks for doing it!
You say not to use the Tena K'tinga kit for this. I am going to. I ordered option C, but am taking a step from option A and wiring the polar lights board to the Tena board to power the green Nacelle LEDs. Everything else will be Tena.
Wow - I don't remember the ship being this colourful! I guess I will have to watch the movie yet again! 😁 With regards to the red stripe at the back of the wings, rather than mess about trying to lay the negative mask (doughnut) over the positive one would it not be possible to make the outline of the negative mask exactly the same size as the whole panel and so use the panel edges to ensure correct placement? There does seem to be enough spare vinyl on the sheet to fit this in. Are there any problems with the bright colours showing through the grey top coat?
OK smartie... I was thinking of breaking the white mask into two parts anyway and i think you have a good idea there. no the gray covers everything, so nothing peeks thru
Wondering why not cut the red/crimson shape into the mask for the white mask? So you would spray white with the whole mask and then remove the 'inner' parts when it is time to spray the red/crimson. Love the progress you are making. This is going to be a very striking build.
Many ways to skin a cat, I suppose. But if I spray a wide area of white, I dont have to worry about whether or not my red masks are in perfect registration. Those red and white stripes would not look as good if there were slivers of gray showing thru.
@@aztekdummy But you do have to get the white just right and it can't be just any white it can only be gloss white as flat and matt whites lack any reflective properties the gloss on the other hand reflects light better. Though I'm sure any gloss light color can do the same as well with lights.
So, if K'Tinga means Bringer of Destruction, then wouldn't we kid around by saying this ship is as big as a Bringer of Destruction Platter?! When you had all four halves of both ships laid out it reminded me of an explosion in a ready-to-cook pizza factory, the day they were making the pineapple variety... This whole episode was really interesting and a great demonstration of your masking methods and results. Really cool stuff. I have heavily invested in the JT Graphics kits to turn a 537 KTinga into a Kronos -- as well as Paulbo's brass kit for that too -- and so will not be doing one of these big guys (unless you, someday, generate a scaled down version). But I also can appreciate the effort you've gone to in making this in the first place-- I tried to make an all-brass turkey feather version for the 1000 KTinga- and alas, that coincided with production and supply difficulties. And I will return to it, as that much head-spinning work needs to be rewarded. And I say that, so that you are included! It's one thing to do a Refit, which to me is a battle of the grays-- this is a spectacle. I say, this is one of your most elaborate mask sets, especially when considering the riot of colors. I have said prior that this Trek VI Kronos-1 ship is my all-time fave of them all. And I preferred the Klingon design to the Federation. Always have. I am surprised that you did not toss in a length of LED strip in the cobra head-- separately wired, of course. Completely separate, I say. You can honestly have made the lighting kit, all by itself. And then, when it was just you and your Kronos in the dark, you could flip a switch to see all those itty bitty windows. But what's done, as they say, is done...
the mission statement of the "stock" build was to just use what came in the box for lighting. The tenacontrols build will have strip or cob lighting in the cobra head so it will be much brighter
I don't understand why there are "cool white" LEDs at all. They either need to be neutral white or if not, warm white to match the aesthetics of the 80s/90s miniatures.
I have to ask, how do you prep your paint for hand brushing? I had a jar of Sky Grey that was thinned in the jar for airbrushing, tried some detail-painting with it, and I could still see brush strokes.
Can't wait for the release of your mask!
WOW the quality of your mask and combination of your color matching ,and painting skills are just sublime,outstanding painting skills. 👏👏👏👏 looking forward to your next video. We'll done Lou
As always, awsome work, look forward to Fridays to watch the current progress on the project and learn something new. Keep up the great work.
Watching and waiting for these masks to become available. Thank you, Lou!
Your awesome, modeler, been watching you , for many years.many years.
M.
The paint Mask Removal And Final Painted Surface Was Brilliant To Watch ! : )
Bravo! I nearly have heart faillure when you peel off the masks. Beautiful work.
The amount of time to paint this model is really incredible, I can't imagine trying to do this without your masks!
I've seen this movie multiple times, and never realized how busy and colorful the paint scheme is. Wow!
looks great, you've done a brilliant job..........
Looking great 👍
Purely beautiful
welll so faer so good fun to see as you do new i will see
Looks great sir. On my k’tinga I removed the plastic window sections between the top portions and laid the photo etched windows right on the clear inserts, around the bulb I dug out all those windows,filled the giant holes with micro crystal clear and used the photo etch. Using the PL light kit,this was the way to go from twinkling to actually lit windows. A lot of work to avoid soldering!😂😂😂 As soon as Cult has yer masks I can start!
Excellent
This must be how a surgeon opens their Christmas presents. Great masking.
The only reason I do not buy the Ktinga or the Kronos is that I cannot decide how to paint it;
The Ktigna studio model is supposed to be shades of green, yet when I see them flying on screen in TMP they're grey
The Kronos studio model is very colorful, yet when I see it next to the NCC1701A in Star Trek 6, its also sheds of grey with maybe some matted colors
(yes, I have a color tv)
I usually never paint my models like its a studio replica, but the way they're presented on film.
But with these Klingon D7 cruisers, I wonder if painting them grey would be an insult?
A lot of the detail gets washed out in the lighting and filming. I sometimes wonder if they overdo it, because they know if they dont, then nothing will show. The refit had a ton of detail that never showed up on film.
Like a Phoenix, rising from the ashes…
Wow, As always beautiful work! 🖖
looking amazing my friend great work as usual painting masks do make all the difference i only use yours know but buying from cult tv man shipping cost is killing me in the uk
Hey Lou! I wanted to say i really enjoyed your videos! Watching you got me back into building after may years break.
Just wanted to ask if you might do a 350 scale Refit because I'm about attempt one myself. 😊 Was hoping to pick up some tips before i started.
Once again love your stuff and thanks for doing it!
Looking great Lou! What’s the plan to cover up the holes from the missing r2 foot/feet?
You say not to use the Tena K'tinga kit for this. I am going to. I ordered option C, but am taking a step from option A and wiring the polar lights board to the Tena board to power the green Nacelle LEDs. Everything else will be Tena.
it looks like you have forgotten some mask's over the white parts unless you have noticed by now. 🙂
Yes I found those 😁
If I can get the K'Tinga models , I would paint them Red, white and blue for the 4th of July.
Wow - I don't remember the ship being this colourful! I guess I will have to watch the movie yet again! 😁 With regards to the red stripe at the back of the wings, rather than mess about trying to lay the negative mask (doughnut) over the positive one would it not be possible to make the outline of the negative mask exactly the same size as the whole panel and so use the panel edges to ensure correct placement? There does seem to be enough spare vinyl on the sheet to fit this in. Are there any problems with the bright colours showing through the grey top coat?
OK smartie... I was thinking of breaking the white mask into two parts anyway and i think you have a good idea there.
no the gray covers everything, so nothing peeks thru
Wondering why not cut the red/crimson shape into the mask for the white mask? So you would spray white with the whole mask and then remove the 'inner' parts when it is time to spray the red/crimson. Love the progress you are making. This is going to be a very striking build.
Many ways to skin a cat, I suppose. But if I spray a wide area of white, I dont have to worry about whether or not my red masks are in perfect registration. Those red and white stripes would not look as good if there were slivers of gray showing thru.
I wonder if a chrome silver would help amplify the light in the Cobra head and the upper bridge head?
White bounces light better than chrome does, believe it or not.
@@aztekdummy But you do have to get the white just right and it can't be just any white it can only be gloss white as flat and matt whites lack any reflective properties the gloss on the other hand reflects light better. Though I'm sure any gloss light color can do the same as well with lights.
So, if K'Tinga means Bringer of Destruction, then wouldn't we kid around by saying this ship is as big as a Bringer of Destruction Platter?! When you had all four halves of both ships laid out it reminded me of an explosion in a ready-to-cook pizza factory, the day they were making the pineapple variety...
This whole episode was really interesting and a great demonstration of your masking methods and results. Really cool stuff. I have heavily invested in the JT Graphics kits to turn a 537 KTinga into a Kronos -- as well as Paulbo's brass kit for that too -- and so will not be doing one of these big guys (unless you, someday, generate a scaled down version). But I also can appreciate the effort you've gone to in making this in the first place-- I tried to make an all-brass turkey feather version for the 1000 KTinga- and alas, that coincided with production and supply difficulties. And I will return to it, as that much head-spinning work needs to be rewarded. And I say that, so that you are included! It's one thing to do a Refit, which to me is a battle of the grays-- this is a spectacle. I say, this is one of your most elaborate mask sets, especially when considering the riot of colors.
I have said prior that this Trek VI Kronos-1 ship is my all-time fave of them all. And I preferred the Klingon design to the Federation. Always have.
I am surprised that you did not toss in a length of LED strip in the cobra head-- separately wired, of course. Completely separate, I say. You can honestly have made the lighting kit, all by itself. And then, when it was just you and your Kronos in the dark, you could flip a switch to see all those itty bitty windows. But what's done, as they say, is done...
the mission statement of the "stock" build was to just use what came in the box for lighting.
The tenacontrols build will have strip or cob lighting in the cobra head so it will be much brighter
I would love to see you do a Romulan themed build, with red, yellow, and overall green tone a la TNG era.
then you should have seen my Bird of Prey build a few weeks ago
I don't understand why there are "cool white" LEDs at all. They either need to be neutral white or if not, warm white to match the aesthetics of the 80s/90s miniatures.
So Lou any chance of K'Tinga paint masks for the 1/537 kits?
I have to ask, how do you prep your paint for hand brushing?
I had a jar of Sky Grey that was thinned in the jar for airbrushing, tried some detail-painting with it, and I could still see brush strokes.
I dont . I just paint out of the jar. I find that the final flat coat will get rid of the brush strokes.
@@aztekdummy Huh. And here I thought it's more complicated than that.
I am new to your channel and also Starships. I bought a Kronos and I was wondering about your mask. Are they for sale and if so, where do I buy them?
I sell my masks thru a few online retailers. I am wrapping up the first order and it should go out this week.
What ratio. Did you mix to get the Klingon Crimson from the Pink and Red Tamiyas??
Go back. The crimson isn't tamiya.
Would it be possible to replace one of those lights in the head and put a strip in there instead?
i always get antsy mixing strips and bulbs when using batteries for power. the strips are also 9v and the lighting kit runs on 4.5
Did you go with the 8 lights per side on the clear vents on the sides of the 'head'?
Not On this one. I will on the full version.