Great video Sean. It's always best to replace all the hoses at once. To some it might not be economical at the time but when your engine bay cops heat, cold, wet & other conditions over time, hoses & pipes wear out. Normally I replace the thermostat at the same time. If any of the old hoses are serviceable, keep them as spares just in case of emergency. Radiators have a 10 year life. In my Holden VY ute, my original radiator gave out after 16 years. I bought an OEM one & it's been working great.
Yup, I've made the mistake of trying to do one hose - just moves the failure point down the chain every time. You got an extra 6 years out of that radiator though! You can always pull them and get them flow tested, and if required they can remove the top and bottom tanks, chemical flush, and re-tank them. I had one of my cars done, it was I think around 1/4 the price of a new radiator. Of course if the radiator itself is corroded it's a waste of time. Agree given a new thermostat is a few bucks, replace it. Not sure if it's an issue with all barra's, but I've found my thermostat housing won't seal properly without some form-a-gasket - I think the aluminium casting is just a bit shit.
This is the 'Bob Ross' motoring channel ... I watched this video & it was therapeutic ... Softly spoken, uncomplicated production, clear instructions, 'crickets chirping' & the knowledge that everything's going to turn out fine ... 10/10
When I picked up my EB S pack, the water pump gasket blew on the way home. I was about 4 hours away from anywhere, it wasn’t a fun time! I decided that while I had half of the front of the motor pulled apart, I would refresh the entire cooling system, and replace all of the drive belts. I have never attempted such a task with any of my cars, but it would be better in the long run. Haven’t had an issue since, happy days. Hope you’re keeping safe mate, good video as always, looking forward to the next one as usual!
Fantastic stuff im a full time mechanic, make sure when bleeding your cooling system you have your heater turned onto max, that way it bleeds everything including the heater core. Good stuff mate enjoying the xr content as I have a bf xr6t myself
@@MotoringBoxTV if what you've got works, keep it. As soon as it shows signs of not being sufficient, then the spend becomes worth it. I stuck a big alloy radiator in my car because I was modifying the engine and actually didn't have a suitable "standard" type radiator. I just got the nicer one as insurance, so I only had to do the job once.
$1000 for a radiator - fuck me it'd better be awesome! I think if you're putting down big power (i.e. > 400rwk) and doing a lot of back to back quarter mile pulls, yeah makes sense - otherwise utterly pointless & you are better off spending your money replacing bushes etc.
Great job mate. Not sure if the BA cooling system is similar to the AU, but I recently replaced the entire cooling system hoses on my AU, and the hardest part was where the hoses run from the heater tap to the heater box on passenger side. The spring clamps are buried so deep down behind the firewall with no room to get your hands in there between the back of the head and the firewall. Gotta ask what were these guys thinking at the time of design? Certainly not us backyard mechanics.😄. That's one tidy bay mate.
pair of multi grips around old hoses is the best trick i’ve ever learnt for working on cars, just twist them and it will break the seal and pull it off
I also had concerns about the cheap eBay radiators too but when my radiator failed on my 2005 Holden Calais it was all I could afford. Touch wood after 6 years it’s delivered no problems. Hopefully it’ll make the 10 year mark which was the point at which the factory radiator failed. 🤞🏼
Another great vid! I just bought a 2009 FG G6, my VS commodore acclaim needs a rest. This channel def influenced my purchase, keen to do some work on it like you! Cheers mate and keep the vids flowing!
Great content as always mate! Thanks for sharing! Agreed, a great idea if you can afford it to replace all your hoses. In the end worth the time mucking about fitting them all. :-)
Another great video. Looks like I have a preventative maintenance project on the horizon for my BA XR6 :) Good Idea with the Aluminium T Piece too. Big brain thinking
As much as I like Falcons, there's always something wrong with them when they get older. I've lived through 3 of them and they always needed a new radiator, gearbox or a new hose.
I came to your site as a result of Hubnuts recommendation. He loved his time with his AU in N Z. Great job and video. Every car I have I fit a fire extinguisher first up. Fortunately never had to use one. I thought you should leave expansion cap off until all air is out of the system. Anyway you monitored and topped up so ‘All the good times’. Not a saying we hear in Aus. but I like it too.
Jeez...things must be pretty fuckn tuff...but yeah...UA-cam keeps me positive, it's like a bunch of mates into cars sharing the good times & the......."testing" times 👍
I wouldn't do the radiator till it busts, but the water pump absolutely, the thermostat and the hoses at the same time. My Radiator is going on 18years now and is fine, looks like new internally.
Thanks for the guide. I bought a coolant and heater hose kit just as a backup, and recently, one of my heater hoses split. So I just replaced everything today. My car had pretty much the OG hoses on it, so they were pretty well gone. I had to use a Stanley knife to cut them off because they were too stuck on. And as for the T piece, my kit didn't come with the metal t piece, it was plastic so its a bit worrying, ill have to replace that soon.
There's still 2 components on the coolant system you'll need to replace, and are notorious for leaking, and that's the o-rings on the hard lines, one at the back of the water pump and the other is below the thermostat, replace with genuine Ford only (green o-rings) and your coolant system should be pretty much overhauled 😉 Sorry to add a add more negative comments about the red coolant, but just wanted to say red coolant brings out all the leaks, and is known in the Falcon industry as the coolant not to be used, we see it daily at work 😎 just a FYI from those who work on Falcons daily 😏🤙🏻
Great vid, there's another chanel worth looking at called Nugget Garage, the guys who do it run a shop called Cleveland Exhaust in Brisbane , they have a Dyno Cell, they know Al and Woddy from Skid Factory to.
firsstttt!! i actually used this video to do my cooling system yesterday, very easy an quick it was.. seems i dont think the thermostat had even been changed.. the rubber ring was non existent it had been gasket maker replaced lol.
Sean hasn't heard of them probably because Mishimoto are big in the Japanese scene and Sean very much isn't. I've run one in my Subaru and had no dramas, although I have heard of the caps being a bit 50/50. Evidently you put a factory cap on and they go great. I haven't had an issue with my cap though, so as far as I'm concerned that's just internet rumours.
Hah! Tyre foam is your Windex :P I wish Gates did a hose pack for VX V8 Commodores, only V6s so I had to order them all separately from multiple suppliers!
Always run your engine for a fair old while 1hr plus to burp your cooling system with no rad cap or expansion tank cap. Its essential to get air out of the system. Also, if you dont want leaks, ever, a light smear of gasket goo or gasket maker on each hose or hard pipe, install, then clamp. You will never have a leak after that. The t piece that leaked, if its under 12months old youre entitled yo a replacement or refund. Cheers. Love the channel
Looks like your coolant is a little low, just top her up, should be great. Love the work on the BA, just remember if you turn her up at all, being a manual, those pump gears will need replacing. Can't wait to see what you do next. All those haters on Red vs Green coolant are idiots, if it meets the required specifications than its fine! Thats like saying because they left on Nulon oil, you can only run Nulon oil, no, if it needs a certain specification, than all you need is oil that meets that specification. Little tip though, HPR5 is fantastic for these engines, the Zinc content helps protect and makes them last forever, had 4 barra's all post 600k kms on them and still going strong for their new owners. Another tip is, with every service i recommend going to Subaru, getting their upper engine cleaner, and doing an upper engine clean, you'll be surprised with the amount of carbon it'll remove, I know you can do other upper engine cleaners, BUT Subaru's one is the best i've found for the job.
I just come across your video to check out a problem I had with a leak. It was the bloody T Piece. Where did you get that replacement from mate? Great video also subscribed
Hey Sean! The new clear coolant tank makes you’re engine bay look almost like new. But the yellow Power Steering reservoir lets the look down. Maybe a future video idea, Power Steering system fluid flush and a nice new fluid reservoir tank??? Just a suggestion mate! Keep up the great work!
Nulon coolant is no longer used in our workshop, after a few months the stuff starts leaking, it's happened too many times, I don't know what the hell they're putting in it, but they need to fix it. No one likes doing a repeat job.
6:18 Hope you didn't scratch the thermostat housing sticking a screwdriver in there. Fair call on the BA parts issue, I just put an 04 BA XT through a roadworthy and was thinking the seatbelt may need replacing (slowish to retract), and IIRC there's no more new ones available at Ford. Passed so all good 🙂
I have had the same problem with a slow retracting driver's seatbelt. Turned out to be that the belt was dirty, which made it drag on the interior trim pieces, and the winding mechanism etc. Leaves a mark across the clothing you are wearing too. Took the belt out and washed it In regular Palmolive soap and water. And removed and cleaned the B pillar trim plastic. Seatbelt works much better now. The belt material is much softer and more flexible - just like the rarely used back seatbelts. The steering wheel gets dirty from handling it, and so does the seatbelt. AFIAK soap and water should not harm the belts effectiveness in a crash.
Think you just gave me ptsd 😄 I did all mine on the V8, I could only find 1 full kit of hoses which were silicon, minus 2 important hoses 🤬... ended up replacing the reservoir tank to a metal one as well
@@smithy2 oh man I wish you luck. I had a 260 xr8 and it blew up just within 2 months of owning it. I shoulda known though, as my mate had a seperate xr8 before me and his too blew up while he owned it... 😬😬
@@bigsohc wow really, they are a strong motor, mines in the shop being tunned, but it had a split valve which lasted the whole time ive had it till last yr when i pull it apart to fix.. if you change a few internals they'll handle decent boost too
@@smithy2 both of ours had bottom end issues. His sent a rod and mine locked up. I then decided they're a tough motor but they aren't very strong in my opinion. Personally looking back I shoulda got a 6
@@MotoringBoxTV yeah I already got red LEDs now I just need 4 White LEDs for my lights and side Indicators and 4 Amber LEDs for my front and rear Indicators
That’s the way! I remember doing the hoses on my EB II when I first got it. The lower one was a real bastard to get on. Better to be safe than sorry, though! Another great video, as usual. Speaking of OEM radiators, we bought the very last genuine radiator left for our 1998 Hilux. Good timing.
Check again. Ford specifies ESE M97-B44A for coolant. www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/ford-/ese-m97-b44a Accepting your apology when convenient.
maaaaaaaate, you don't need to spend $1000 on a radiator....you can get good quality ones for $200-$300 from repco/supercheap/bursons etc, easy to DIY too....i have used a cheapie ebay radiator in a bf falcon and its still good 3 years later......obviously i wouldn't cheap out on the xr6 but $1000 is ridiculous for a radiator someone is pulling ya leg
It's a full alloy radiator so no plastic end tanks and they are hand tig welded and manufactured right here in Australia. They are thicker than standard too at 55mm. Great unit but I understand the price might be too much for some. My modified FG F6 has never been happier...
This one didn't, but a squeeze test revealed the lower hose was significantly thicker and harder to squash. I read somewhere modern hoses are strong enough to not need them. Not sure how true it is? Time will tell.
Did you notice if the bottom hose that was on there had a spring in it? And did the new hose have a spring in it? I work with SOHC Falcons mostly (EF and AU's) and recently ordered a new bottom hose for an AU which didn't come with a spring inside which is found inside the factory hose. I have also taken apart a couple of BA/BF Falcons and a bottom hose I had kept spare had a spring inside. This is to prevent the hose from collapsing under suction and maybe with new technology they don't need a spring in them anymore???
It didn't, but it was noticeably thicker and harder to squash compared to the top hose. I did read somewhere that modern hoses are strong enough to not need them, but who knows? I trust Gates, hopefully they know what they're doing!
Any chance of doing a video to cover replacement of the cooland bypass pipe from the thermostat housing down to the block? Mine is leaking from the seal at the thermostat and Ive found that the pipe has corroded away and the end flange is completely missing - so I have finalled sourced a replacement but Im having trouble seeing where this alloy pipe is connected at the bottow and how the hell to get to it without having the luxury of a hoist. Appreciate any help from anyone
I've replaced the seal on that pipe before, but never had to replace the whole thing. I know it travels along the underside of the intake manifold though - taking the airbox out might be a good first step to help with access.
@@MotoringBoxTV Thanks Mate. Have removed the airbox and access to the top is easy now. Replaced the O-ring/seal but it still leaks due to the corroded pipe where it (should) seat against the thermostat housing. I'll keep plodding on. Mines a turbo so this pipe is different to the normal Barra (scarce - used and expensive here - NZ) new is $295A!
No easy way for me to check sorry, but check out this one for sale: www.vpw.com.au/proflow-adapter-silicone-heater-hose-t-piece-bille It reckons the two inlets are 3/4", and although it comes with two fittings for the smaller outlet, I would guess 3/8" is probably the one you want there.
@@MotoringBoxTV yeah the one on ebay im looking at says 3/4 and 3/8. I've got a guy at Pirtek that can Fabricate one up for me. But just trying to get the size right before I give him the go ahead lol
If you look at 11:22 the big hose roughly half way up the radiator goes to the coolant overflow tank, which I replace in the timelapse at 11:35, and the one below is the lower radiator hose. The huge pipe that runs parallel with the radiator (and underneath absolutely everything else) is part of the intake system which runs to the intercooler.
@@MotoringBoxTV np..had a look at ebay and they had a Gates Comprehensive Coolant Hose Kit - 07-0030 for 103 from sparesbox_auto ..wonder if it is genuine they say Gates authorised au seller.. have messaged Gates to confirm if they are.
Gates hoses over dayco any day, everyday ! Dayco are junk, wayyy to thin in construction.... Also, props to running correct RED (OAT) coolant in an engine with alloy components ! If i see a Barra with green, i'll walk straight away from it 😂😄 Red coolant is for engines with ALLOY components Head, radiator or wherever alloy is used to prevent long term corrosion. So no, you're doing the right thing using red coolant, it's less corrosive. People use green because it's cheaper 😁
Why that fucking t piece is plastic is beyond me , driving along notice my shoes feel super slippery almost like oil but watery no obvious colour but it was night time , oil temp rising , get out check coolant bone dry turns out it was the middle part of the t piece snapped where the small hose goes onto it and it's leaked out everywhere can't really be without a car either so might have to buy that kit of hoses just for the t piece from Repco until an alloy one arrives...... Cheers for the video was big help
@@TheKnobCalledTone. yep, their retail prices are fucking ludicrous, trade is acceptable, depending on what discount rate you're on, but a quick ebay search ALWAYS beats Repco/Burson prices. ...it's the overheads. ....👍
Red v green...take your pick: www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/ford-/ese-m97-b44a. Penrite even gives you a blue option. Oh, and don't trust the Supercheap auto website. It reckons water boils at 100 degrees in a pressurised cooling system. 😒
I’ve had falcons my whole life . Learnt to drive in an XY, bought my first car was an XB. First new falcon was the EB, traded for EF, traded for AU , traded for BA then BF Fairmont . Now I have FGX . And only ever get serviced at Ford. And NEVER EVER had a car with red coolant. In fact just had the FG cooling system flushed and paid $109 for OEM coolant . It’s green same as the day I drove it from the showroom.
@@MotoringBoxTV not disrespecting you like the other commenter mate. Love your vids and enthusiasm for falcons. But I’m just saying what I’ve been told by Ford service techs. That’s all.
...... Interesting contrast you threatening inanimate objects. My 'modus operandi' is to use nasty profanities, e.g. "You F'king dog c-word". Neither approach is rational, logical , or gentleman-like.
@@MotoringBoxTV Change the coolant "mate". i like the channel good videos but if i see something wrong ill point it out. this is coming from a mechanic at ford for 15 years. Red is way to corrosive for that engine! you will see what happens after prolonged use. there is a reason they leave the factory with green. pull your weird shaped head out.
@@MotoringBoxTV please do, if you are going to work on your car on a DIY channel make sure you know exactly what you're doing first before some idiot does the same.
The problem is everybody has their own opinion and are happy to insult or degrade those who don't agree. What you can't argue with are Ford's specifications. For coolant Ford specifies "ESE M97-B44A". That's straight out of the BA MKII Series warranty and service booklet that came with my car. Nulon Red Premium long life coolant meets that specification. www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/red-premium-long-life-coolant-100-percent-concentrate I don't expect your opinion to change. But others are free to make their own decisions based on the data provided by both the vehicle manufacturer and the aftermarkets.
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Great video Sean. It's always best to replace all the hoses at once. To some it might not be economical at the time but when your engine bay cops heat, cold, wet & other conditions over time, hoses & pipes wear out. Normally I replace the thermostat at the same time. If any of the old hoses are serviceable, keep them as spares just in case of emergency.
Radiators have a 10 year life. In my Holden VY ute, my original radiator gave out after 16 years. I bought an OEM one & it's been working great.
Good tip with the thermostat, I probably should have mentioned I replaced it when I did the coolant flush a few months back 👍
Yup, I've made the mistake of trying to do one hose - just moves the failure point down the chain every time. You got an extra 6 years out of that radiator though! You can always pull them and get them flow tested, and if required they can remove the top and bottom tanks, chemical flush, and re-tank them. I had one of my cars done, it was I think around 1/4 the price of a new radiator. Of course if the radiator itself is corroded it's a waste of time. Agree given a new thermostat is a few bucks, replace it. Not sure if it's an issue with all barra's, but I've found my thermostat housing won't seal properly without some form-a-gasket - I think the aluminium casting is just a bit shit.
This is the 'Bob Ross' motoring channel ... I watched this video & it was therapeutic ... Softly spoken, uncomplicated production, clear instructions, 'crickets chirping' & the knowledge that everything's going to turn out fine ... 10/10
When I picked up my EB S pack, the water pump gasket blew on the way home. I was about 4 hours away from anywhere, it wasn’t a fun time! I decided that while I had half of the front of the motor pulled apart, I would refresh the entire cooling system, and replace all of the drive belts. I have never attempted such a task with any of my cars, but it would be better in the long run.
Haven’t had an issue since, happy days. Hope you’re keeping safe mate, good video as always, looking forward to the next one as usual!
Fantastic stuff im a full time mechanic, make sure when bleeding your cooling system you have your heater turned onto max, that way it bleeds everything including the heater core. Good stuff mate enjoying the xr content as I have a bf xr6t myself
Good tip! And thanks for watching mate.
The PWR radiator is awesome. When you can afford it, get one.
A lot of $$$ for sure. Might be overkill for what I need.
@@MotoringBoxTV if what you've got works, keep it. As soon as it shows signs of not being sufficient, then the spend becomes worth it. I stuck a big alloy radiator in my car because I was modifying the engine and actually didn't have a suitable "standard" type radiator. I just got the nicer one as insurance, so I only had to do the job once.
$1000 for a radiator - fuck me it'd better be awesome! I think if you're putting down big power (i.e. > 400rwk) and doing a lot of back to back quarter mile pulls, yeah makes sense - otherwise utterly pointless & you are better off spending your money replacing bushes etc.
Great job mate. Not sure if the BA cooling system is similar to the AU, but I recently replaced the entire cooling system hoses on my AU, and the hardest part was where the hoses run from the heater tap to the heater box on passenger side. The spring clamps are buried so deep down behind the firewall with no room to get your hands in there between the back of the head and the firewall. Gotta ask what were these guys thinking at the time of design? Certainly not us backyard mechanics.😄. That's one tidy bay mate.
I think the design of the AU's heater plumbing layout is completely different. But Ford certainly didn't make the job any easier that's for sure.
pair of multi grips around old hoses is the best trick i’ve ever learnt for working on cars, just twist them and it will break the seal and pull it off
Gotta love a good Hubnut reference
Mmmmm that alloy piece is enough to make me wanna put my black gloves on and have some alone time 🍻
I also had concerns about the cheap eBay radiators too but when my radiator failed on my 2005 Holden Calais it was all I could afford. Touch wood after 6 years it’s delivered no problems. Hopefully it’ll make the 10 year mark which was the point at which the factory radiator failed. 🤞🏼
Lol 😂 there are only 3 originals, I just had my radiator replace 4 days ago 😝 great vid 🤙
Another great vid! I just bought a 2009 FG G6, my VS commodore acclaim needs a rest. This channel def influenced my purchase, keen to do some work on it like you! Cheers mate and keep the vids flowing!
Great content as always mate! Thanks for sharing! Agreed, a great idea if you can afford it to replace all your hoses. In the end worth the time mucking about fitting them all. :-)
Another great video. Looks like I have a preventative maintenance project on the horizon for my BA XR6 :) Good Idea with the Aluminium T Piece too. Big brain thinking
Good advice re the life of the hoses. My 2012 FG has just ticked over 50,000 kms, probably needs hoses regardless.
Great video as always.
Interesting my N-A has just the two heater hoses at the back. Must be a Turbo thing!
Yeah, I have no idea what they do exactly though. Only that they're heater related!
As much as I like Falcons, there's always something wrong with them when they get older. I've lived through 3 of them and they always needed a new radiator, gearbox or a new hose.
"or a new hose". ..... Oh the horror
@@sheerluckholmes5468 yeah replacing hoses isn’t that bad
I came to your site as a result of Hubnuts recommendation. He loved his time with his AU in N Z. Great job and video. Every car I have I fit a fire extinguisher first up. Fortunately never had to use one. I thought you should leave expansion cap off until all air is out of the system. Anyway you monitored and topped up so ‘All the good times’. Not a saying we hear in Aus. but I like it too.
I done that.... replaced radiator and also done a intercooler flush at the same time
Another brilliant vid mate 👌🏼
Looks amazing
I really enjoy your videos mate and they bring me a lot of comfort especially when things are tough IRL. Thanks :)
So glad to hear that mate. Have a good one 👍
Jeez...things must be pretty fuckn tuff...but yeah...UA-cam keeps me positive, it's like a bunch of mates into cars sharing the good times & the......."testing" times 👍
@@lancecooper4646 that's it 👌
I wouldn't do the radiator till it busts, but the water pump absolutely, the thermostat and the hoses at the same time. My Radiator is going on 18years now and is fine, looks like new internally.
Thanks for the guide. I bought a coolant and heater hose kit just as a backup, and recently, one of my heater hoses split. So I just replaced everything today. My car had pretty much the OG hoses on it, so they were pretty well gone.
I had to use a Stanley knife to cut them off because they were too stuck on. And as for the T piece, my kit didn't come with the metal t piece, it was plastic so its a bit worrying, ill have to replace that soon.
Realistically your plastic t-piece is brand new, so it may last 10 / 15 years or more. So you should be right for a while!
There's still 2 components on the coolant system you'll need to replace, and are notorious for leaking, and that's the o-rings on the hard lines, one at the back of the water pump and the other is below the thermostat, replace with genuine Ford only (green o-rings) and your coolant system should be pretty much overhauled 😉
Sorry to add a add more negative comments about the red coolant, but just wanted to say red coolant brings out all the leaks, and is known in the Falcon industry as the coolant not to be used, we see it daily at work 😎 just a FYI from those who work on Falcons daily 😏🤙🏻
Thanks for the comment mate. I know the red vs green war will never end 😁
7:06 such versatile stuff - I've even taken to putting it on my tyres...
Great vid, there's another chanel worth looking at called Nugget Garage, the guys who do it run a shop called Cleveland Exhaust in Brisbane , they have a Dyno Cell, they know Al and Woddy from Skid Factory to.
Is this an ad?
This episode of MotoringBox is brought to you by nugget garage 😃
@@MotoringBoxTV how much they pay you to say that? Nothing? Best send them an invoice then.
1000 Dollars for a radiator!! And i complained for 250 - 500 dollars for the Chevy Sonic. (AC-Delco)
I got a new radiator from adrad for $110 here in Perth.
Yes it's a lot. There are cheaper options out there, it's just difficult to know which ones to trust.
firsstttt!! i actually used this video to do my cooling system yesterday, very easy an quick it was.. seems i dont think the thermostat had even been changed.. the rubber ring was non existent it had been gasket maker replaced lol.
Thanks mate ended up buying a fg falcon and I gotta do all, these done them before but a nice refreshing vid thx
It might also be worth considering a Mishimoto radiator, they have a lifetime warranty and they're only $720 compared to the PWR unit
Thanks I hadn't heard of them before, I'll look into it.
Sean hasn't heard of them probably because Mishimoto are big in the Japanese scene and Sean very much isn't. I've run one in my Subaru and had no dramas, although I have heard of the caps being a bit 50/50. Evidently you put a factory cap on and they go great. I haven't had an issue with my cap though, so as far as I'm concerned that's just internet rumours.
7:25 that's why the T piece is plastic, alloy corrodes via electrosys with old coolant.
In the good old days, ie. XF Inlet manifold hose fittings, we replaced them with Brass 👍
Provided you don't run the coolant for years it should be fine!
Awesome video Sean.
Keep them up.
Loving it :)
Again sweet video bro. It's good because I think the set up on the FG's cooling system are basically the same.
Nice job mate. I always look forward to your videos.
Thanks so much mate!
Awesome vid and keep up the high quality content 👍👍
Hah! Tyre foam is your Windex :P I wish Gates did a hose pack for VX V8 Commodores, only V6s so I had to order them all separately from multiple suppliers!
Hicooling in hoppers crossing in vic have triple row 50 mm alloy radiators for around $180 inc shipping i highlyrecommend them great quality
I've got a rad on the way! I bought it elsewhere though.
Only brand hoses I use on all my cars are either Gates or Mackay.
Great video! :) I regret not buying a BA XR6 Turbo sooner now
I thought I bought in at an expensive time, but the price I paid would be considered a bargain now.
Always run your engine for a fair old while 1hr plus to burp your cooling system with no rad cap or expansion tank cap. Its essential to get air out of the system. Also, if you dont want leaks, ever, a light smear of gasket goo or gasket maker on each hose or hard pipe, install, then clamp. You will never have a leak after that. The t piece that leaked, if its under 12months old youre entitled yo a replacement or refund. Cheers. Love the channel
..... Those 'pinch clamps' on that pre-assembled T piece.
REPCO should be ashamed of themselves.
Working on car with open 1/4inch drive socket set sitting on rocker cover....”I see you like to live dangerously” 😏
Always
Looks like your coolant is a little low, just top her up, should be great. Love the work on the BA, just remember if you turn her up at all, being a manual, those pump gears will need replacing. Can't wait to see what you do next. All those haters on Red vs Green coolant are idiots, if it meets the required specifications than its fine! Thats like saying because they left on Nulon oil, you can only run Nulon oil, no, if it needs a certain specification, than all you need is oil that meets that specification. Little tip though, HPR5 is fantastic for these engines, the Zinc content helps protect and makes them last forever, had 4 barra's all post 600k kms on them and still going strong for their new owners. Another tip is, with every service i recommend going to Subaru, getting their upper engine cleaner, and doing an upper engine clean, you'll be surprised with the amount of carbon it'll remove, I know you can do other upper engine cleaners, BUT Subaru's one is the best i've found for the job.
crc throttle body cleaner works just fine
Super great video
I just come across your video to check out a problem I had with a leak. It was the bloody T Piece. Where did you get that replacement from mate? Great video also subscribed
Hey Sean! The new clear coolant tank makes you’re engine bay look almost like new. But the yellow Power Steering reservoir lets the look down. Maybe a future video idea, Power Steering system fluid flush and a nice new fluid reservoir tank??? Just a suggestion mate! Keep up the great work!
And then the new power steering reservoir will make something else look bad 😁
who cares as long as its reliable and at full power
Nulon coolant is no longer used in our workshop, after a few months the stuff starts leaking, it's happened too many times, I don't know what the hell they're putting in it, but they need to fix it. No one likes doing a repeat job.
Has been fine in my cars going on 2 years - I wonder if there is more to the story?
With radiators, always go where the pros get their radiators if you can't get OEM. And don't make my mistake and forget the fan shroud.
You are ting great care of the Barra she will last for a long time.
Hope so!
My skid plate is held on with zip ties 😂😂
Hey, if it works 👍👌
6:18 Hope you didn't scratch the thermostat housing sticking a screwdriver in there.
Fair call on the BA parts issue, I just put an 04 BA XT through a roadworthy and was thinking the seatbelt may need replacing (slowish to retract), and IIRC there's no more new ones available at Ford. Passed so all good 🙂
I have had the same problem with a slow retracting driver's seatbelt. Turned out to be that the belt was dirty, which made it drag on the interior trim pieces, and the winding mechanism etc. Leaves a mark across the clothing you are wearing too. Took the belt out and washed it In regular Palmolive soap and water. And removed and cleaned the B pillar trim plastic. Seatbelt works much better now. The belt material is much softer and more flexible - just like the rarely used back seatbelts. The steering wheel gets dirty from handling it, and so does the seatbelt. AFIAK soap and water should not harm the belts effectiveness in a crash.
Think you just gave me ptsd 😄
I did all mine on the V8, I could only find 1 full kit of hoses which were silicon, minus 2 important hoses 🤬... ended up replacing the reservoir tank to a metal one as well
How long have you had yours? Is it a Boss?
@@bigsohc yep a BA boss 260, 4 or 5yr not sure which yr i bought it
@@smithy2 oh man I wish you luck. I had a 260 xr8 and it blew up just within 2 months of owning it. I shoulda known though, as my mate had a seperate xr8 before me and his too blew up while he owned it... 😬😬
@@bigsohc wow really, they are a strong motor, mines in the shop being tunned, but it had a split valve which lasted the whole time ive had it till last yr when i pull it apart to fix.. if you change a few internals they'll handle decent boost too
@@smithy2 both of ours had bottom end issues. His sent a rod and mine locked up. I then decided they're a tough motor but they aren't very strong in my opinion. Personally looking back I shoulda got a 6
Awesome video
This weekend I’m going to buy LEDs for my Ute at autobarn
LED's are a nice upgrade. Easy too.
@@MotoringBoxTV yeah I already got red LEDs now I just need 4 White LEDs for my lights and side Indicators and 4 Amber LEDs for my front and rear Indicators
Better to drop the hose than undo the rad bung. The bungs usually don't seal back up after all these years.
Yup or you can sometimes snap the little twist handle things off them.
That’s the way! I remember doing the hoses on my EB II when I first got it. The lower one was a real bastard to get on. Better to be safe than sorry, though! Another great video, as usual.
Speaking of OEM radiators, we bought the very last genuine radiator left for our 1998 Hilux. Good timing.
Awesome video
Red coolant is for ALL alloy engines. Green coolant is for alloy / iron which the Barra is.
Smells like BS mate.
@@MotoringBoxTV That smell is your breath, from talking too much verbal dioreah.
Check again. Ford specifies ESE M97-B44A for coolant. www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/ford-/ese-m97-b44a
Accepting your apology when convenient.
maaaaaaaate, you don't need to spend $1000 on a radiator....you can get good quality ones for $200-$300 from repco/supercheap/bursons etc, easy to DIY too....i have used a cheapie ebay radiator in a bf falcon and its still good 3 years later......obviously i wouldn't cheap out on the xr6 but $1000 is ridiculous for a radiator someone is pulling ya leg
Some of the cheap ones are known to rust hence destroying the entire system
Adrad was also recommended, but theirs have plastic end tanks. OEM Ford had the same of course, but you know...
It's a full alloy radiator so no plastic end tanks and they are hand tig welded and manufactured right here in Australia. They are thicker than standard too at 55mm. Great unit but I understand the price might be too much for some. My modified FG F6 has never been happier...
I went Ford OEM radiator hoses as the lower hose has a spring inside for kinks.
This one didn't, but a squeeze test revealed the lower hose was significantly thicker and harder to squash. I read somewhere modern hoses are strong enough to not need them. Not sure how true it is? Time will tell.
Scratch the new intake idea I reckon new pulleys and tensioner + belt 🤷🏻
Slovenian watching.👍
Next up growler intake? 😊
Did you notice if the bottom hose that was on there had a spring in it? And did the new hose have a spring in it? I work with SOHC Falcons mostly (EF and AU's) and recently ordered a new bottom hose for an AU which didn't come with a spring inside which is found inside the factory hose. I have also taken apart a couple of BA/BF Falcons and a bottom hose I had kept spare had a spring inside. This is to prevent the hose from collapsing under suction and maybe with new technology they don't need a spring in them anymore???
It didn't, but it was noticeably thicker and harder to squash compared to the top hose. I did read somewhere that modern hoses are strong enough to not need them, but who knows? I trust Gates, hopefully they know what they're doing!
Any chance of doing a video to cover replacement of the cooland bypass pipe from the thermostat housing down to the block? Mine is leaking from the seal at the thermostat and Ive found that the pipe has corroded away and the end flange is completely missing - so I have finalled sourced a replacement but Im having trouble seeing where this alloy pipe is connected at the bottow and how the hell to get to it without having the luxury of a hoist. Appreciate any help from anyone
I've replaced the seal on that pipe before, but never had to replace the whole thing. I know it travels along the underside of the intake manifold though - taking the airbox out might be a good first step to help with access.
@@MotoringBoxTV Thanks Mate. Have removed the airbox and access to the top is easy now. Replaced the O-ring/seal but it still leaks due to the corroded pipe where it (should) seat against the thermostat housing. I'll keep plodding on. Mines a turbo so this pipe is different to the normal Barra (scarce - used and expensive here - NZ) new is $295A!
My heater hose on my ba xr6t bursted while driving and the hose was only 3 months old.
Fuckn hot down here in Eyre Peninsula SA too
Just wondering if the kit comes with the two hose pieces for the turbo coolant line?
Nope it does not
When is the full feature video coming of the BA
Hope to start working properly on that one soon. Only trouble is my regular videos may stop or slow down in the meantime.
just get one from Natrad mate. They're really good.
HubNut mentioned in motoring box :-)
👍
Whats the measurements on that tpiece alluminium i need one my ones leaking aswell
www.ebay.com.au/itm/253976740069
The t/stat housing acts as a sacrificial anode, if it's corroded, replace it 👍
It looked pretty good actually. Definitely has some life left in it.
You've doubled its value.
Only kidding of course.
You've quadrupled its value!
Did you paint the battery black??
No, it's a Repco one from memory.
Mate can you tell me what size that T piece is at all? I've got a guy at Pirtek that will make me up one, but I need the size if possible?
No easy way for me to check sorry, but check out this one for sale: www.vpw.com.au/proflow-adapter-silicone-heater-hose-t-piece-bille
It reckons the two inlets are 3/4", and although it comes with two fittings for the smaller outlet, I would guess 3/8" is probably the one you want there.
@@MotoringBoxTV yeah the one on ebay im looking at says 3/4 and 3/8. I've got a guy at Pirtek that can Fabricate one up for me. But just trying to get the size right before I give him the go ahead lol
Parts supply from Ford Australia is dwindling quick, especially for BA/BF
Sadly this will be the case for all Falcon owners soon enough.
What's the warranty on self installed hoses?
No idea sorry.
Hi
Nice video...
What are the other two big hoses that are near the bottom radiator hose? One looked like it connected to the radiator as well
If you look at 11:22 the big hose roughly half way up the radiator goes to the coolant overflow tank, which I replace in the timelapse at 11:35, and the one below is the lower radiator hose. The huge pipe that runs parallel with the radiator (and underneath absolutely everything else) is part of the intake system which runs to the intercooler.
@@MotoringBoxTV Thanks.. I looked at the prices Gates hoses pack 184 and the alloy connector 35.. ouch..
@@63Arnast I paid around $150 as Repco do a discount for roadside club members. Not cheap, but better than buying everything separately.
@@MotoringBoxTV np..had a look at ebay and they had a Gates Comprehensive Coolant Hose Kit - 07-0030 for 103 from sparesbox_auto ..wonder if it is genuine they say Gates authorised au seller.. have messaged Gates to confirm if they are.
Looks the same to me. Good deal!
i feel so old knowing that the Ba is 17 years old, jesus..
Gates hoses over dayco any day, everyday !
Dayco are junk, wayyy to thin in construction....
Also, props to running correct RED (OAT) coolant in an engine with alloy components !
If i see a Barra with green, i'll walk straight away from it 😂😄
Red coolant is for engines with ALLOY components
Head, radiator or wherever alloy is used to prevent long term corrosion. So no, you're doing the right thing using red coolant, it's less corrosive. People use green because it's cheaper 😁
Lol, tell that to old mate in the pinned comment up top 😁
Alright who dislikes his vids huh 🧐
Surely collab with Rossy
We're at opposite ends of the country, hahaha
au radiator fits ba bf did it to an old ba
Noice 👌
Why that fucking t piece is plastic is beyond me , driving along notice my shoes feel super slippery almost like oil but watery no obvious colour but it was night time , oil temp rising , get out check coolant bone dry turns out it was the middle part of the t piece snapped where the small hose goes onto it and it's leaked out everywhere can't really be without a car either so might have to buy that kit of hoses just for the t piece from Repco until an alloy one arrives...... Cheers for the video was big help
Yes mine was starting to crack in the same way! Plastic parts in the cooling system were not the best idea.
Hello hello hello hello hello from Newcastle
Hey!
0:25 or 0:26
Hmm?
@@MotoringBoxTV hehehe...
Enough to send you nutty.
Aussie the lucky Country, Gates Hose Set $471 Repco NZ
You guys seem to get ripped on a lot of things over there.
You can get the hose set on trademe from aussie for $220 for a ba falcon, au ones are even more at $270
@@LukeLappage95 Cheers for that, same price +Postage for BA/BF Turbo
Sounds like they're living up to the old "Rip Every Poor C**t Off" motto over at Repco NZ lol
@@TheKnobCalledTone. yep, their retail prices are fucking ludicrous, trade is acceptable, depending on what discount rate you're on, but a quick ebay search ALWAYS beats Repco/Burson prices. ...it's the overheads. ....👍
Red v green...take your pick: www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/ford-/ese-m97-b44a. Penrite even gives you a blue option.
Oh, and don't trust the Supercheap auto website. It reckons water boils at 100 degrees in a pressurised cooling system. 😒
The Barra engines take green coolant.
It's not as simple as that.
I’ve had falcons my whole life . Learnt to drive in an XY, bought my first car was an XB. First new falcon was the EB, traded for EF, traded for AU , traded for BA then BF Fairmont . Now I have FGX . And only ever get serviced at Ford. And NEVER EVER had a car with red coolant. In fact just had the FG cooling system flushed and paid $109 for OEM coolant . It’s green same as the day I drove it from the showroom.
Check out the pinned comment if you want to enter the argument. The coolant I used meets Ford's spec, end of story.
@@MotoringBoxTV Ford tech said the red coolant will eat the Welch plugs like salt water.
@@MotoringBoxTV not disrespecting you like the other commenter mate. Love your vids and enthusiasm for falcons. But I’m just saying what I’ve been told by Ford service techs. That’s all.
...... Interesting contrast you threatening inanimate objects.
My 'modus operandi' is to use nasty profanities, e.g. "You F'king dog c-word".
Neither approach is rational, logical , or gentleman-like.
They never leaked after the threats, so there must be some method to our madness.
For god sake you don't put alloy coolant in that engine!!!!
Change the record mate.
@@MotoringBoxTV Change the coolant "mate". i like the channel good videos but if i see something wrong ill point it out. this is coming from a mechanic at ford for 15 years. Red is way to corrosive for that engine! you will see what happens after prolonged use. there is a reason they leave the factory with green. pull your weird shaped head out.
@@superjnutzzz I'll let you know how the corrosion goes.
@@MotoringBoxTV please do, if you are going to work on your car on a DIY channel make sure you know exactly what you're doing first before some idiot does the same.
The problem is everybody has their own opinion and are happy to insult or degrade those who don't agree. What you can't argue with are Ford's specifications. For coolant Ford specifies "ESE M97-B44A". That's straight out of the BA MKII Series warranty and service booklet that came with my car. Nulon Red Premium long life coolant meets that specification. www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/red-premium-long-life-coolant-100-percent-concentrate
I don't expect your opinion to change. But others are free to make their own decisions based on the data provided by both the vehicle manufacturer and the aftermarkets.