2 part coal-tar epoxy and marine Bondo was what I used when I made the new 5 ft. LOA centerboard from plate for my 1978 Balboa/ Aquarius 23. I used what the Coast Guard used on Can Buoys. One gallon of Coal-tar epoxy did 2 coats on the board ($150). I faired it after the Coal-tar with Marine Bondo. I believe Jamestown TotalBoat TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound might be a better choice now than Marine Bondo. Is your pivot pin Stainless? I made a stainless (316L) bushing from a section of 316L solid bar and drilled 1/16" oversize of the pivot bolt. That was fit pressed into my home made centerboard. I did mine on the trailer in the yard and dug a hole to get the last 3" to clear the centerboard trunk. I envy you your setup and the concrete floor to work off of. Pretty work Sir, pretty work indeed!
I have used coal tar before, especially to coat fuel tanks but this time I used barrier coat because I had it on hand I made up new stainless pivot pin and centerboard is drilled out and bushed with delryn Thanks for your comments and for watching!
wow that was a neat set up for sliding out the keal ,first time i seen anyone just pull out with ease ,gotta love those guys on youtube lying on thier back, fighting with keal and then it slams flat on there knees an ankles 😂😂😂
Lol Definitely didn’t want that to happen 170 pounds of cast iron is no joke when you are in awkward spot under a boat Hope it goes back in as smoothly
Looks like you are doing a complete restoration and repair of the M17. Don’t forget the cockpit drain hose. It goes from the cockpit drain to a flush hole in the bottom near the transom and can be hard to get to. It can sink the boat if it leaks. Mine was not in good shape, but fortunately I was able to pull the boat before it sank. It bears inspection anyhow.
That really is is remarkable shape for the age -- I can't believe there weren't any barnacles to be seen!!! As for the repair for the swing keel, i think that you can go one of two possible ways. 1. That casting looks to be at least 1/2" thick if not 5/8" -- cast iron drills and taps very easily compared to steel. You could probably drill and tap for a 1/2" bolt (use fine thread -more points of contact -less likely to ever pull out -- i would thread in at least 1" into the casting). Once bolt is installed use it as a core to form the new stop with FerroWeld steel electrode (designed for cast iron) weld deposits will be very hard (not machinable but can weld to partially rusty casting) can be finished or shaped with grinder -- cheapest route. 2. Skip the bolt for core and use Tech-Rod 55 to build up a new stop directly with weld. Tech-Rod 55 are more expensive but are more tolerant of any phosphorus in the casting and is usually machinable. They also have a lower coefficient of expansion, so fewer fusion line cracks. I look forward to seeing your solution ... good luck!!!
Thanks for the suggestions I won’t spoil my next video but I have repaired the broken stop The cast iron is actually 3/4” thick It was in good condition because a previous owner had refurbished it at some point so I had a good starting point Thanks for watching
a clean shop is a safe shop!
Lol
I wouldn’t know much about a clean shop
2 part coal-tar epoxy and marine Bondo was what I used when I made the new 5 ft. LOA centerboard from plate for my 1978 Balboa/ Aquarius 23. I used what the Coast Guard used on Can Buoys. One gallon of Coal-tar epoxy did 2 coats on the board ($150). I faired it after the Coal-tar with Marine Bondo. I believe Jamestown TotalBoat TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound might be a better choice now than Marine Bondo. Is your pivot pin Stainless? I made a stainless (316L) bushing from a section of 316L solid bar and drilled 1/16" oversize of the pivot bolt. That was fit pressed into my home made centerboard. I did mine on the trailer in the yard and dug a hole to get the last 3" to clear the centerboard trunk. I envy you your setup and the concrete floor to work off of. Pretty work Sir, pretty work indeed!
I have used coal tar before, especially to coat fuel tanks but this time I used barrier coat because I had it on hand
I made up new stainless pivot pin and centerboard is drilled out and bushed with delryn
Thanks for your comments and for watching!
wow that was a neat set up for sliding out the keal ,first time i seen anyone just pull out with ease ,gotta love those guys on youtube lying on thier back, fighting with keal and then it slams flat on there knees an ankles 😂😂😂
Lol
Definitely didn’t want that to happen
170 pounds of cast iron is no joke when you are in awkward spot under a boat
Hope it goes back in as smoothly
Looks like you are doing a complete restoration and repair of the M17. Don’t forget the cockpit drain hose. It goes from the cockpit drain to a flush hole in the bottom near the transom and can be hard to get to. It can sink the boat if it leaks. Mine was not in good shape, but fortunately I was able to pull the boat before it sank. It bears inspection anyhow.
Thanks for the advise
I will def give it a closer inspection
This is my first time seeing a Montgomery 17. Looks very comparable to the Com-Pac 16. Looking forward to your restoration of it.
They are quite a bit bigger than the CP16
Thanks for watching
@@theboatnik1328 Thanks for the clarification, looking forward to your next steps
That really is is remarkable shape for the age -- I can't believe there weren't any barnacles to be seen!!! As for the repair for the swing keel, i think that you can go one of two possible ways. 1. That casting looks to be at least 1/2" thick if not 5/8" -- cast iron drills and taps very easily compared to steel. You could probably drill and tap for a 1/2" bolt (use fine thread -more points of contact -less likely to ever pull out -- i would thread in at least 1" into the casting). Once bolt is installed use it as a core to form the new stop with FerroWeld steel electrode (designed for cast iron) weld deposits will be very hard (not machinable but can weld to partially rusty casting) can be finished or shaped with grinder -- cheapest route. 2. Skip the bolt for core and use Tech-Rod 55 to build up a new stop directly with weld. Tech-Rod 55 are more expensive but are more tolerant of any phosphorus in the casting and is usually machinable. They also have a lower coefficient of expansion, so fewer fusion line cracks. I look forward to seeing your solution ... good luck!!!
Thanks for the suggestions
I won’t spoil my next video but I have repaired the broken stop
The cast iron is actually 3/4” thick
It was in good condition because a previous owner had refurbished it at some point so I had a good starting point
Thanks for watching
You are bold removing the centerboard, and then going under the boat.
I always try and leave the boat suspended from lifting straps as a safety but on blocking to support the weight
And jack stands when possible
Good job...
Thanks for watching!