As I failed a grade here or there, you calling me smart, feels good, David. Thanks for that! That said, the truth is I learned not to fear mistakes, and with each, I'll improve! There was a time I was scared to make a mistake, and if still thinking that way, I would have quit after the second door made of scrap that did not work. Three times was the charm! These doors will have templates for the plans as I don't expect anyone else to suffer through laying them up, just by measure! Thanks again, David! AllthebestRoy
I've concluded that you don't throw any lumber away and that it all (if not completely rotten) needs to be conserved. Each trip to the lumber yard leaves me in greater sticker shock as what used to be $5 to $12 boards are now $15 to $50 boards or worse. Old furniture no longer gets yard saled or discarded as even the pressboard items that originally cost $19.99 to $50 now can contain well over $100 to $200 worth of materials. I just built a cabinet that previously would have required about $50 worth of lumber to build the carcass however at today's prices the cost came to over $400. I ended up reclaiming some old solid wood pine furniture so it cost me some glue, $10 worth of sandpaper and about $15 worth of new lumber to get it done. The need for sanding the old finishes off is moot since the milling of the new lumber is so bad it requires a lot of sanding too in order to clean up the chatter and such from the poor setup of the equipment in the mills. I still have enough material left to build some recessed panel doors by adding a $19 sheet of 1/8 inch luan for the panels which is now only around 1/10 of an inch thick and costs about $12 more than the 1/8 inch material it replaces plus is lower quality. I'm also more careful when doing demolition now so as to have more reusable material left when done. It takes only a little more time, makes for a neater job site and the savings on new materials can be massive for the slight amount of effort it takes. Best!
Agree! There was a time when stick built homes were considered recyclable and would be dismantled, the material reused, even the nails! Today, the time to do so is not worth it unless you are like me and you, and consider this "free" time. Keep up the good work Neil! BestRoy
Puerto Penasco Mexico. adding luxury items to that massive 50 footer. Like a chest freezer all that fish I catch and a washer and dryer. There’s a video on the latest changes. Cheers buddy.
I wondered if I could pick your brain about one other thing. Is it necessary to use fibreglass? Would not just a couple of coats epoxy be enough to make a hull watertight for budget build? Perhaps just tape the seams? Thanks.
No problem Micahcarro! Possibly, you could do just tape or even just epoxy coat, if using good quality Marine Ply! Also being stratigic how you apply the epoxy to seal it will make for better results! For example, wood (ply) will off gas when warming up, so if you want thebest penitration of epoxy resin, you must coat the wood when it is cooling down! Also thinning the epoxy will help! I've had good results using Laquer Thinner to delute my mix (one part to nine parts epoxy mix, is enough), it has cured fine for me but there are products that do thin that are "approved" by the brands you would buy! A test is always wise! I would only use Marine ply as I have restored an old Wayfarer that was in decent shape and was only glued and sealed but not glassed. They didn't even use epoxy back then but resorcinol phenol formaldehyde Glue was used! In the restoration, the hull was a very good Mahogany ply and was in great shape but I had to replace the deck ply, which had rotted! I would use Meranti ply, not Oukume as the Meranti is a harder wood and would handle the abbrassion best! Oukume also seems to rot faster if any water soaks it! Not a problem if sealed in glass but it is best to avoid it, if not using glass, in my experience! I also have used cheap ' 3/8" Spruce exterior roofing ply for a couple of my builds! I carfully pick out the best sheets from a new lift as some can be crap! Be selective! It is only three ply though and must be sealed and glassed or canvased! I've had good results and have two beautiful boats, CROW and OSPREY! But a friend only sealed his build using the same ply and when he went to launch the boat in it's second season, it leaked badly! The ply had not rotted but when it had been wet the grain expanded, so that when the tree plys dried, each layer developed checks (small cracks) and the water passed through all three layers and into the boat! The glue had held fine though so the solution was to sand down the hull and coat the hull with fibreglass! It is best to glass inside and out, by the way!!! If not the inside will alow water to seap into the ply and it can't excape! It will rot prematurely as a result! So. if just epoxy coating your ply, do take care to also coat the inside! I am thinking of doing another build down the road and avoid epoxy altogether! My idea is to use tar, tar paper and canvas! I like the idea of offering a cheap way to be on the water, as this is the joy many miss because they cannot afford to build! Hope this helps
Hi "WT" 3/8" Okoume Marine Ply with a few sheets of 3/8" Meranti Marine ply for where abrassion is more an issue, the hull bottom 4' run and the bow deck! BestRoy
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
She's looking great! Nice job utilizing all available space!
Thanks Jake!
Wow! You are smarter than, a whole tree full of owls. Love your channel and your boat building skills.
As I failed a grade here or there, you calling me smart, feels good, David. Thanks for that! That said, the truth is I learned not to fear mistakes, and with each, I'll improve! There was a time I was scared to make a mistake, and if still thinking that way, I would have quit after the second door made of scrap that did not work. Three times was the charm! These doors will have templates for the plans as I don't expect anyone else to suffer through laying them up, just by measure! Thanks again, David! AllthebestRoy
Roy this is looking just wonderful. Such a comfortable compact design. It's exciting to see it taking shape.
Thanks Tim! I'm excited about the way MiniD is coming together!!! BestRoy
Nice work Roy
thanks Michael
I've concluded that you don't throw any lumber away and that it all (if not completely rotten) needs to be conserved. Each trip to the lumber yard leaves me in greater sticker shock as what used to be $5 to $12 boards are now $15 to $50 boards or worse. Old furniture no longer gets yard saled or discarded as even the pressboard items that originally cost $19.99 to $50 now can contain well over $100 to $200 worth of materials. I just built a cabinet that previously would have required about $50 worth of lumber to build the carcass however at today's prices the cost came to over $400. I ended up reclaiming some old solid wood pine furniture so it cost me some glue, $10 worth of sandpaper and about $15 worth of new lumber to get it done. The need for sanding the old finishes off is moot since the milling of the new lumber is so bad it requires a lot of sanding too in order to clean up the chatter and such from the poor setup of the equipment in the mills. I still have enough material left to build some recessed panel doors by adding a $19 sheet of 1/8 inch luan for the panels which is now only around 1/10 of an inch thick and costs about $12 more than the 1/8 inch material it replaces plus is lower quality.
I'm also more careful when doing demolition now so as to have more reusable material left when done. It takes only a little more time, makes for a neater job site and the savings on new materials can be massive for the slight amount of effort it takes.
Best!
Agree! There was a time when stick built homes were considered recyclable and would be dismantled, the material reused, even the nails! Today, the time to do so is not worth it unless you are like me and you, and consider this "free" time. Keep up the good work Neil! BestRoy
AWESOME JOB!
Thanks David!
It’s coming together
Little bit at a time, Jean! Where you at these days? BestRoy
Puerto Penasco Mexico. adding luxury items to that massive 50 footer. Like a chest freezer all that fish I catch and a washer and dryer. There’s a video on the latest changes. Cheers buddy.
Exciting! Glad you are surviving the storms to njoy the peace! Well worth it! AllthebestRoy @@Jmmondeau
I wondered if I could pick your brain about one other thing. Is it necessary to use fibreglass? Would not just a couple of coats epoxy be enough to make a hull watertight for budget build? Perhaps just tape the seams? Thanks.
No problem Micahcarro! Possibly, you could do just tape or even just epoxy coat, if using good quality Marine Ply! Also being stratigic how you apply the epoxy to seal it will make for better results! For example, wood (ply) will off gas when warming up, so if you want thebest penitration of epoxy resin, you must coat the wood when it is cooling down! Also thinning the epoxy will help! I've had good results using Laquer Thinner to delute my mix (one part to nine parts epoxy mix, is enough), it has cured fine for me but there are products that do thin that are "approved" by the brands you would buy! A test is always wise! I would only use Marine ply as I have restored an old Wayfarer that was in decent shape and was only glued and sealed but not glassed. They didn't even use epoxy back then but resorcinol phenol formaldehyde Glue was used! In the restoration, the hull was a very good Mahogany ply and was in great shape but I had to replace the deck ply, which had rotted! I would use Meranti ply, not Oukume as the Meranti is a harder wood and would handle the abbrassion best! Oukume also seems to rot faster if any water soaks it! Not a problem if sealed in glass but it is best to avoid it, if not using glass, in my experience! I also have used cheap ' 3/8" Spruce exterior roofing ply for a couple of my builds! I carfully pick out the best sheets from a new lift as some can be crap! Be selective! It is only three ply though and must be sealed and glassed or canvased! I've had good results and have two beautiful boats, CROW and OSPREY! But a friend only sealed his build using the same ply and when he went to launch the boat in it's second season, it leaked badly! The ply had not rotted but when it had been wet the grain expanded, so that when the tree plys dried, each layer developed checks (small cracks) and the water passed through all three layers and into the boat! The glue had held fine though so the solution was to sand down the hull and coat the hull with fibreglass! It is best to glass inside and out, by the way!!! If not the inside will alow water to seap into the ply and it can't excape! It will rot prematurely as a result! So. if just epoxy coating your ply, do take care to also coat the inside! I am thinking of doing another build down the road and avoid epoxy altogether! My idea is to use tar, tar paper and canvas! I like the idea of offering a cheap way to be on the water, as this is the joy many miss because they cannot afford to build! Hope this helps
Just wondering what brand of epoxy you like working with? Most affordable?
Hi Micahcarr, check your other comment...I left a long answer for you ther. Hope it helps! BestRoy
What type of plywood are you using ? Grade ?
Hi "WT" 3/8" Okoume Marine Ply with a few sheets of 3/8" Meranti Marine ply for where abrassion is more an issue, the hull bottom 4' run and the bow deck! BestRoy
@@roydesignedthat Thanks for the info. Learning what is available for wood boat building these days.