Just in case somebody in my situation is trawling the comments, 2nd generation 4Runners do *NOT* have the access door you will have to cut the floors or drop the tank
great video, just got an 86 that's been off the road for 20 years, was going to drop the tank - and likely will still need to, as much as we'd all like to believe the previous owner ran the tank dry before parking it for X number of years lol - but I'll start with this access cover to see what it looks like. I'm sure the sock will need replaced at minimum, thanks!
Oh my gosh! You had such an easy pump replacement... given that you had an access plate. Try the same thing with a motor home where the tank has to be removed. Also, you failed to mention in the beginning, the need to replace the fuel filter. Since this is the case in all the applications I have tackled, fuel pressure can be slowly released at the fuel line if no other method is used as your suggested. Thanks for the video.
So I snapped the part you was talking about, new one is on the way? If the bolt is seized, didn’t use flare wrenches was my first mistake, how should I go about getting that fitting off without completely ruining my fuel line?
thanks Alex I would add, don't even try taking the 14mm fitting loose without a flare wrench. It looks like your 14mm wrench slipped a little over the fitting also, since it's stuck there when you removed the pump from the tank. Since I had to push so hard my flare wrench rounded the whole thing and had to use vise-grip. Mine would not break loose, finally, I hit the corner of the 19mm many times and then liquid wrench again. next morning it broke loose. Since my connection was so tight, I'm worried it will not seal up after reinstalling.
Hey Alex. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful! I know this is an older video, but I have a question for you. I've gotten everything done aside from the fuel line which you suggested being careful not to break. I didn't break mine (although started to bend it) but I can't get that detached, and the 14mm nut is almost stripped from me trying to loosen it. I've put PB blaster on and it's not budging. I don't want to risk stripping it completely or breaking the line. Do you have any suggestions? Would it work to just leave that line attached, lower the tank, and then have enough room to pull out the assembly? I can't pull the assembly out as it is because there's not enough slack in the fuel line to allow it. Thanks a lot!
Thanks, I appreciate the response! Well I was able to pull it out without lowering the tank or breaking any lines. I replaced the fuel pump...and it continues to crank but still won't start. 🤦🏼♂️ My last option (which should've maybe been first) is to drain the old gas and replace it. The fuel in the tank is about 2 years old. Is there a way to diagnose an "old fuel" problem before draining the fuel tank and replacing it with new gas?
If the fuel pump continuity were to be wired backwards would it still kick in just not pump or would it not have any movement at all? Thanks in advance!
Hi Alexman, Always appreciate your videos. Good to learn from your experience! Did you replace your FP because it failed, because it was giving signs that it was about to fail, or just as preventive measure having an educated guess of when it is most likely to fail? At what mileage / age did you replace it?
I was about to go on a week long road trip so I replaced it as a precaution. No symptoms. It had nearly 400,000 miles on it. I actually kept it and used it later in another vehicle where the fuel pump had rusted into a solid chunk. Sold that car so it may still be pumping.
@@TheAlexManVideos,Thanks you, Sir! When I get my new one, I'll keep old one in the truck.. I have converted truck body cavities so I have lots of room to store spares- :)
Hi! awesome video. I had managed to get a fuel pump that is much smaller in diameter and with a different wiring setup. I intend to return it, and get one of these, but I have already put it in there and crimped the wires (so they would now be too short). Is it possible to replace those positive and negative wires? thank you very much! it was my first time doing it and I'm despairing a bit over this
My first thought is you wouldn't want to crimp and splice longer wires on there. The ground should be easy to entirely replace. The positive needs to be able to pass through the sending unit and be electrically isolated from the mounting flange. Make sure whatever wire you use has insulation rated for use in fuel. If you can't find wire that's spec'ed for this, you can always go to a junkyard and strip wire that's used on an in tank pump from some other car.
@@TheAlexManVideos thank you so much for this comprehensive reply! it sent me all over town trying to sort this out over the last week. surprisingly hard to find fuel rated stuff, or any knowledge about it. one of the autopart stores finally called the manufacturer and confirmed that the crimp connectors would corrode in fuel. I am now tempted to just get a new bracket all together. Thank you for putting this on my radar. the local yunk yard is not very big and was pretty stripped, but i had some fun in there trying to find these little parts 🙏🏾🙏🏾🛻
The pressure line should be pretty obvious. The vent and return can be mixed up since they have the same size and connection. With the whole sending unit out, the line that goes all the way to the bottom is the return, the one that just goes through the mounting flange is the vent. If you don't want to remove to replace, you can see in the video which is which and try to match that up to your truck. But sending unit changed a few times so I'm not sure that would be 100% accurate. Best way is to trace the lines back from the engine bay. Vent is connected to the charcoal canister, return is connected to the back end of the fuel rail.
Hey AlexMan, love the videos especially since I own a 1986 4 runner. Unfortunately one of the valves has seized up and my local shop says $2400 to do a full top end repair...does that sound about right to you? That includes sending out to a machine shop, adjusting the values and setting the timing. Do you think that would be a job for a weekend mechanic to tackle? I also need fuel pump and radiator which I'm going to tackle thanks to your fuel pump video.
That might be a little high but it's certainly not unreasonable for that amount of work. You can buy a new aftermarket head for a few hundred dollars. Metal timing chain guide set is $150 or so. Another hundred for gaskets and another hundred for odd and ends, fluids, and other things you forget about. Search YotaTech for threads of people doing head gaskets for the first time on their own. It can be done if you do some research and are mildly mechanically inclined. Where in the country are you located. I'll help out if you're close.
Shop craigs list for mobile mechanics. Suggest you buy a new head with values for a 22 r on ebay. Valves do not seize. So the engine may have overheated. I have replace the head on a 1988 4 runner 22r. The bolts behind the valve cover next to the fire wall are very hard to get to. I replaced the head gasket for 50 dollars.
TheAlexManVideos what were your symptoms. Why did u replace it. Mine stalled on me the other day on the freeway and wouldn’t start back up lucky 20 min later after after try it turned back on I wonder if it’s my pump also
Hey Mann ... how much did the paint job and body work set you back? thanks for the videos they have been a big help to me in getting my 86 gone through and running reliably. I'm almost there (perpetually). :D
Great video! I just attempted this and ended up breaking the fuel line leading into the tank (the one you referenced). You have any idea what this part is called? or maybe a part#?
hey Alex, I have an 85 Pickup carbed, and the fuel sending unit is bad, doesn't show fuel level. would it be easier to take the bed off, assuming me and some friends can, or drop the tank?
If the bolts are all in good shape then dropping the tank isn't really a big deal so long as it's nearly empty. I never had to remove the bed on my Pickup during the time I owned it so I can't really say how hard it is in comparison. I've heard different people suggest each way is easier. I'd say it's really a toss up and do whatever you think will be the easiest in terms of rust. Sorry I couldn't give you a clear answer.
bought a new fuel hanger from ebay. and tested the positive and ground wire. the positive wire is also grounded. the fuel pump works. I can not trusted to put it inside the tank.
I had a mid 80's celica, different vehicle but same 22re, fuel pump went bad. Problem wasn't acceleration but just engine cutting in and out during normal driving. I had 150 mi round trip every day so it was easy to notice differences. If it's an acceleration only problem I would say it's most likely other things but I am no expert, just a lifelong DIY mechanic. Maybe someone here knows more and can verify that acceleration only can be affected by bad fuel pump. I didn't know what the problem was at the time so I did the standard fuel pump tests from the TOY manual and noticed intermittent operation. That is how I finally knew it was the fuel pump. Hope this helps you, it was all guess work for me 20+ years ago.....
does the pump run with the key on or only in the crank position > need to know so I can try banging on bottom of tank in an attempt to get old pump working.
The key needs to be in the START position. In the ON position, it will only run the fuel pump if the VAFM senses air flowing through it. In other words, if the key is in the ON position but with the engine not running (no air flow through the VAFM), the fuel pump will not run. You can test the fuel pump by connecting B+ to FP in the diagnostic port under the hood while the key is ON.
Just in case somebody in my situation is trawling the comments, 2nd generation 4Runners do *NOT* have the access door you will have to cut the floors or drop the tank
Thank you very much for comprehensive description.
great video, just got an 86 that's been off the road for 20 years, was going to drop the tank - and likely will still need to, as much as we'd all like to believe the previous owner ran the tank dry before parking it for X number of years lol - but I'll start with this access cover to see what it looks like. I'm sure the sock will need replaced at minimum, thanks!
Thank you for sharing. Gave me the confidence to replace mine!
Great video ! My 87 4runner has 420k with original pump. Now I know how to replace it ! Thanks !
great job! as a fellow enthusiast, i really enjoy these videos even when they don't apply to my yota haha
watching this in 2021 and you rock! thanks!
Thank you for this video! It’s been a life saver!
Oh my gosh! You had such an easy pump replacement... given that you had an access plate. Try the same thing with a motor home where the tank has to be removed. Also, you failed to mention in the beginning, the need to replace the fuel filter. Since this is the case in all the applications I have tackled, fuel pressure can be slowly released at the fuel line if no other method is used as your suggested. Thanks for the video.
I didnt know about this panel thank you i was prepared to drop my tank
So I snapped the part you was talking about, new one is on the way? If the bolt is seized, didn’t use flare wrenches was my first mistake, how should I go about getting that fitting off without completely ruining my fuel line?
thanks Alex
I would add, don't even try taking the 14mm fitting loose without a flare wrench. It looks like your 14mm wrench slipped a little over the fitting also, since it's stuck there when you removed the pump from the tank. Since I had to push so hard my flare wrench rounded the whole thing and had to use vise-grip. Mine would not break loose, finally, I hit the corner of the 19mm many times and then liquid wrench again. next morning it broke loose.
Since my connection was so tight, I'm worried it will not seal up after reinstalling.
Do all 4Runners have access panel? I have a 1995 V6.
1992 4runner SR5 does not have an access cover under the seat. Tank has to be dropped, which is a monumental PITA.
Just cut through the metal . make a small hatch door. Most people do that. Im going to. Very safe if done right.
Hey Alex. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful! I know this is an older video, but I have a question for you. I've gotten everything done aside from the fuel line which you suggested being careful not to break. I didn't break mine (although started to bend it) but I can't get that detached, and the 14mm nut is almost stripped from me trying to loosen it. I've put PB blaster on and it's not budging. I don't want to risk stripping it completely or breaking the line. Do you have any suggestions? Would it work to just leave that line attached, lower the tank, and then have enough room to pull out the assembly? I can't pull the assembly out as it is because there's not enough slack in the fuel line to allow it. Thanks a lot!
That would be annoying but it would work.
Thanks, I appreciate the response! Well I was able to pull it out without lowering the tank or breaking any lines. I replaced the fuel pump...and it continues to crank but still won't start. 🤦🏼♂️ My last option (which should've maybe been first) is to drain the old gas and replace it. The fuel in the tank is about 2 years old. Is there a way to diagnose an "old fuel" problem before draining the fuel tank and replacing it with new gas?
If the fuel pump continuity were to be wired backwards would it still kick in just not pump or would it not have any movement at all? Thanks in advance!
Thanks 1994 4runner had
To replace the pump today 🎉😊
Hi Alexman, Always appreciate your videos. Good to learn from your experience! Did you replace your FP because it failed, because it was giving signs that it was about to fail, or just as preventive measure having an educated guess of when it is most likely to fail? At what mileage / age did you replace it?
I was about to go on a week long road trip so I replaced it as a precaution. No symptoms. It had nearly 400,000 miles on it. I actually kept it and used it later in another vehicle where the fuel pump had rusted into a solid chunk. Sold that car so it may still be pumping.
@@TheAlexManVideos,Thanks you, Sir! When I get my new one, I'll keep old one in the truck.. I have converted truck body cavities so I have lots of room to store spares- :)
I got a 1989 Toyota pick truck this fuel pump will fit in this truck ?
Great good job liked what I saw thanks for the help
Do you have the part number you used for the Fuel sending unit?
This FP will fit a 95 4runner sr5 4x4 all stock!?
Do you know where i can purchase a sending unit for a 1986 toyota pickup 4wd 22re
I have a 95 4Runner and the access panel is not there.
are you saying when doing this that if i push in my clutch the fuel pump wont run?
Correct for my 86. Incorrect on my 90. 89/90 2nd Gen does not have access panel
Alex, my 86 yota pick up shows full when I fill it up..but about 75 miles later the gauge drops to empty and stays there. How do I fix this?
I forgot what lines go where but one of the lines had a green tab is that the return
Hi! awesome video. I had managed to get a fuel pump that is much smaller in diameter and with a different wiring setup. I intend to return it, and get one of these, but I have already put it in there and crimped the wires (so they would now be too short). Is it possible to replace those positive and negative wires? thank you very much! it was my first time doing it and I'm despairing a bit over this
My first thought is you wouldn't want to crimp and splice longer wires on there. The ground should be easy to entirely replace. The positive needs to be able to pass through the sending unit and be electrically isolated from the mounting flange. Make sure whatever wire you use has insulation rated for use in fuel. If you can't find wire that's spec'ed for this, you can always go to a junkyard and strip wire that's used on an in tank pump from some other car.
@@TheAlexManVideos thank you so much for this comprehensive reply! it sent me all over town trying to sort this out over the last week. surprisingly hard to find fuel rated stuff, or any knowledge about it. one of the autopart stores finally called the manufacturer and confirmed that the crimp connectors would corrode in fuel. I am now tempted to just get a new bracket all together. Thank you for putting this on my radar. the local yunk yard is not very big and was pretty stripped, but i had some fun in there trying to find these little parts 🙏🏾🙏🏾🛻
@@TheAlexManVideos where did you get this kit from ?
Put a new fuel pump in. Now my gas gauge doesn’t work. Can someone help tell me what to check.
Where did you get the camper, cover ? I am looking for one
I bought it off some guy on Craigslist. It had no manufacturer markings.
Hey so do you know what all 3 of those lines are I'm having trouble figure out what is return and what is a breather
The pressure line should be pretty obvious. The vent and return can be mixed up since they have the same size and connection. With the whole sending unit out, the line that goes all the way to the bottom is the return, the one that just goes through the mounting flange is the vent. If you don't want to remove to replace, you can see in the video which is which and try to match that up to your truck. But sending unit changed a few times so I'm not sure that would be 100% accurate. Best way is to trace the lines back from the engine bay. Vent is connected to the charcoal canister, return is connected to the back end of the fuel rail.
Hey AlexMan, love the videos especially since I own a 1986 4 runner. Unfortunately one of the valves has seized up and my local shop says $2400 to do a full top end repair...does that sound about right to you? That includes sending out to a machine shop, adjusting the values and setting the timing. Do you think that would be a job for a weekend mechanic to tackle? I also need fuel pump and radiator which I'm going to tackle thanks to your fuel pump video.
That might be a little high but it's certainly not unreasonable for that amount of work. You can buy a new aftermarket head for a few hundred dollars. Metal timing chain guide set is $150 or so. Another hundred for gaskets and another hundred for odd and ends, fluids, and other things you forget about. Search YotaTech for threads of people doing head gaskets for the first time on their own. It can be done if you do some research and are mildly mechanically inclined. Where in the country are you located. I'll help out if you're close.
In AZ, phoenix to be specific. But thanks for the YotaTech, will take a look at that, love the videos...keep'em coming.
No problem. Glad I am able to help. I'm on the east coast otherwise I'd lend a hand.
Shop craigs list for mobile mechanics. Suggest you buy a new head with values for a 22 r on ebay. Valves do not seize. So the engine may have overheated.
I have replace the head on a 1988 4 runner 22r. The bolts behind the valve cover next to the fire wall are very hard to get to. I replaced the head gasket for 50 dollars.
pnr123456 you can get a whole rebuild engine for that price if you ask me it’s over priced.
Hey Alex merry Christmas how's the Z50R?
Hey I have a 93 pickup and I was wondering on how what the best way to take the fuel pump out?
Either drop the tank or remove the bed. Neither one is too hard. Pick the bolts that are less rusty.
TheAlexManVideos what were your symptoms. Why did u replace it. Mine stalled on me the other day on the freeway and wouldn’t start back up lucky 20 min later after after try it turned back on I wonder if it’s my pump also
Does anybody monitor this video? Does a 94 extended cab have the door
Hey Mann ... how much did the paint job and body work set you back? thanks for the videos they have been a big help to me in getting my 86 gone through and running reliably. I'm almost there (perpetually). :D
What holds the pump into the frame? You didn't say, and that's important.
Most likely the big black gasket at one end and a tight fuel hose at the other end...hold it all together, overall weighs very little.
Thank you so much, I needed help
Great video! I just attempted this and ended up breaking the fuel line leading into the tank (the one you referenced). You have any idea what this part is called? or maybe a part#?
Fuel pump hanger
hey Alex, I have an 85 Pickup carbed, and the fuel sending unit is bad, doesn't show fuel level.
would it be easier to take the bed off, assuming me and some friends can, or drop the tank?
If the bolts are all in good shape then dropping the tank isn't really a big deal so long as it's nearly empty. I never had to remove the bed on my Pickup during the time I owned it so I can't really say how hard it is in comparison. I've heard different people suggest each way is easier. I'd say it's really a toss up and do whatever you think will be the easiest in terms of rust. Sorry I couldn't give you a clear answer.
Your answer is fine, I'll drop the tank. Thanks!
At 3.26 you said “drain, vent.” Isn’t it supposed to be vent, drain?
Como cambiar los cables de corriente a la bomba que van dentro del tanque
no comprendo nada.
thank you!
Remove pick up 4 runner is way easier to change the pump unless you include removing the fuel tank
Where is the fuel sending unit?
the 95 does not have the hatch
Thank you so much for your awesome video! Highfive :)
bought a new fuel hanger from ebay. and tested the positive and ground wire. the positive wire is also grounded. the fuel pump works. I can not trusted to put it inside the tank.
Positive wire may look grounded but it has electrode washers so it doesn't hit the metal parts, the pos one goes to the top and neg is on the side, js
were you having an acceleration problem? this is the next thing im checking....
Hey, I'm currently having a similar problem, when I accelerate it feels like I'm out of gas. Did you fix your problem with a new pump?
I had a mid 80's celica, different vehicle but same 22re, fuel pump went bad. Problem wasn't acceleration but just engine cutting in and out during normal driving. I had 150 mi round trip every day so it was easy to notice differences. If it's an acceleration only problem I would say it's most likely other things but I am no expert, just a lifelong DIY mechanic. Maybe someone here knows more and can verify that acceleration only can be affected by bad fuel pump. I didn't know what the problem was at the time so I did the standard fuel pump tests from the TOY manual and noticed intermittent operation. That is how I finally knew it was the fuel pump. Hope this helps you, it was all guess work for me 20+ years ago.....
Anti - seize would be a better bet than using grease.
Where is the fuel pump relay on a 1986 4runner
EFRAIN VILLATORO under the steering wheel, there are two relays, one for the headlights and another for fuel pump. The rrlay should say "FUEL PUMP"
does the pump run with the key on or only in the crank position > need to know so I can try banging on bottom of tank in an attempt to get old pump working.
The key needs to be in the START position. In the ON position, it will only run the fuel pump if the VAFM senses air flowing through it. In other words, if the key is in the ON position but with the engine not running (no air flow through the VAFM), the fuel pump will not run. You can test the fuel pump by connecting B+ to FP in the diagnostic port under the hood while the key is ON.
My 94 has no access panel. Had to cut one. Carefully.
You skipped the hardest part, removing the plug. How the heck do you disconnect it.
Z50
The last minute of the video is just a waste of data
Not looking forward to this fix lol
its easy. try replacing an mr2 fuel pump :)