I think the reason the Dutch model Germany has a few reasons. The model train market is dominated by Germany in mainland Europe (I also love British locomotives but I've only seen them for sale in one second hand store) meaning it's easier to get the correct rolling stock and locomotives for the period your making. Speaking of although there are Dutch models there's not a lot if you want to make anything from before 1940 only a handful of Dutch steam loco's which are preserved are made into models and the number of Dutch steam loco's that are preserved is already small that aren't just stolen from Germany (or any other country) So if you want to make a Dutch layout you'd have to base it around the 1980's-2020's if you want to make it accurate or build the loco's yourself. Didn't mean to turn this into a paragraph but that's why I think we Dutchies model Germany so much.
Oh man, for couplings I have become obsessed with ditching model train couplings completely for as near as real 3- and screw-link couplings(for short stuff at least) and it’s really not half bad as long as you mind your track to not go immediately left to right and it looks beautiful!! I first found a kit wagon with 3-links and I was obsessed and every short wagon I have only has 3-links and most of my engines I’ve added/adjusted their hooks to actually use Generally speaking I might be a bit mad, but I love running chain and screw links
You don't necessarily need to pick up and twist the models if you have tension locks. Just seperate the wagons a little, get a thin stick or wire under the hooks and lift them up. Done. No need to replace all your couplings with Kadees
Okay, so if you get some uncure and use it lightly ( don’t put to much ) you can soften the glue on the steps and the just remove them. No breaking and they can added back on if no improvement.
My WD 2-8-0 had the same derailment issue with the same culprit. I fixed it by slightly bending the steps outwards to give the pony truck some clear *without* the steps breaking. Since then, I've had no more derailments.
My Uncle gave me a load of old oo gauge stuff that he got off a friend, including a WD 2-8-0 metal kit. Your vids have taught me about them and led to the decision that mines is getting a tall funnel and an NS paintjob haha
I understand why you prefer kadees over tension locks. I have experience with both styles, due to having both American and British engines in my fleet. The ease of operation of the kadee/mchenry is wonderful, but I keep tensionlocks on by British stock because from a distance they have the appearance of screwlinks.
Hi Luke. Have you heard KR models are doing WD 2-10-0 in WD livery? It was annoced at Warley, the NS livery is £240. So now you can have the exact loco as your profile pic. I know Ellis clark have annouced a WD 2-10-0 but not in WD. If there is a enough KR models are sure to do one.
It’s such a shame bc there have been limited runs of steams loco’s like the 3700, 2100, 1700, 6300 and 4000 (among others) in ho scale but they’re not being produced anymore and go for hundreds of euros
Ah couplings! Everyones favourite. Try some bachmann DMUs, similar to tension locks but much closer coupling and they are repairable if the latch comes off. Personally i have DMUs between everything & Hunt magnets on engines.
I do think those steps on the front of the running board are more than likely the reason why she keeps derailing on curves. though if it isn't, then I can only recommend that you keep running her westbound
More model railways is always good I've just got my baseboard in order and I've bought a broken flying Scotsman on the cheap which I hope to turn into an A4 Pacific soon. Question. How tight are your curves and what track do you use I'm using peco code 100 for ALL my proper layout curves and never going below 2nd radius if it's derailing on anything above 2nd radius I would be quite surprised.
I’m still trying to get my endgame engine but I have got mighty close as I’m trying to get a NSWGR 3801 as at the moment I have both 3806 and 3803 but I really want to get nice model of my favorite engine
I’m gonna do anything what about you do you move the body of the train due to see okay hold on what about you take a Dremel bogey get a Dremel and twin the depths from them go bargain deal deal better my God that’s good looking like kind of like move or I don’t wanna hinge get them or a boy told them to adapt to move up a little I didn’t know how to get that wagon I don’t have a gun buggy engine I have a one to go for me or scale only Coolio I have a Hornby 0 4 0 welcome moulded in the GWR and the number on a guide plate 101 I need a girl or a scale go one tiny Wales is oo
As of now (19/5/2022), the coal load is still missing.
Update, 27/5/2022: Found it, I had plopped it in a vacant open wagon. Oops!
Big Oooooof
oooooooooooooofffffffffffffffffffff😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I do that alot. Using my open and flat wagons for parts storage.
i loose wagons cos i leave them under engine sheds
I think the reason the Dutch model Germany has a few reasons.
The model train market is dominated by Germany in mainland Europe (I also love British locomotives but I've only seen them for sale in one second hand store) meaning it's easier to get the correct rolling stock and locomotives for the period your making.
Speaking of although there are Dutch models there's not a lot if you want to make anything from before 1940 only a handful of Dutch steam loco's which are preserved are made into models and the number of Dutch steam loco's that are preserved is already small that aren't just stolen from Germany (or any other country) So if you want to make a Dutch layout you'd have to base it around the 1980's-2020's if you want to make it accurate or build the loco's yourself.
Didn't mean to turn this into a paragraph but that's why I think we Dutchies model Germany so much.
Oh man, for couplings I have become obsessed with ditching model train couplings completely for as near as real 3- and screw-link couplings(for short stuff at least) and it’s really not half bad as long as you mind your track to not go immediately left to right and it looks beautiful!!
I first found a kit wagon with 3-links and I was obsessed and every short wagon I have only has 3-links and most of my engines I’ve added/adjusted their hooks to actually use
Generally speaking I might be a bit mad, but I love running chain and screw links
1:11 - 1:34 its because we germans, me incluedid are awesome and have awesome trains
Same here
You don't necessarily need to pick up and twist the models if you have tension locks. Just seperate the wagons a little, get a thin stick or wire under the hooks and lift them up. Done. No need to replace all your couplings with Kadees
I think you should do more model train reviews and try your best to fix them if they have any problems
Okay, so if you get some uncure and use it lightly ( don’t put to much ) you can soften the glue on the steps and the just remove them. No breaking and they can added back on if no improvement.
My WD 2-8-0 had the same derailment issue with the same culprit. I fixed it by slightly bending the steps outwards to give the pony truck some clear *without* the steps breaking. Since then, I've had no more derailments.
My Uncle gave me a load of old oo gauge stuff that he got off a friend, including a WD 2-8-0 metal kit. Your vids have taught me about them and led to the decision that mines is getting a tall funnel and an NS paintjob haha
honestly I love Netherland Spoorwegen, because it's a sister railway company of the Netherland-Indische railways of the bygone era here in Indonesia
I have a version of the WD that’s also 2-8-0 in black with no big funnel. It’s a lovely model.
I understand why you prefer kadees over tension locks. I have experience with both styles, due to having both American and British engines in my fleet. The ease of operation of the kadee/mchenry is wonderful, but I keep tensionlocks on by British stock because from a distance they have the appearance of screwlinks.
Hi Luke. Have you heard KR models are doing WD 2-10-0 in WD livery? It was annoced at Warley, the NS livery is £240. So now you can have the exact loco as your profile pic. I know Ellis clark have annouced a WD 2-10-0 but not in WD. If there is a enough KR models are sure to do one.
I mean it's the same with the heritage Railway over here, cause the NS was so gracious and scrapped pretty much any steamer on sight.
It’s such a shame bc there have been limited runs of steams loco’s like the 3700, 2100, 1700, 6300 and 4000 (among others) in ho scale but they’re not being produced anymore and go for hundreds of euros
Ah couplings! Everyones favourite. Try some bachmann DMUs, similar to tension locks but much closer coupling and they are repairable if the latch comes off. Personally i have DMUs between everything & Hunt magnets on engines.
I do think those steps on the front of the running board are more than likely the reason why she keeps derailing on curves.
though if it isn't, then I can only recommend that you keep running her westbound
Scot have you tried putting nail polish removal to try removing the rear coupler?
More model railways is always good I've just got my baseboard in order and I've bought a broken flying Scotsman on the cheap which I hope to turn into an A4 Pacific soon.
Question. How tight are your curves and what track do you use I'm using peco code 100 for ALL my proper layout curves and never going below 2nd radius if it's derailing on anything above 2nd radius I would be quite surprised.
3rd Radius in the curves, the points are that awkward radius that's not quite 2nd but not quite 3rd either. So yeah, I don't get it either.
Man, the NS WD austerity really living up to the first 4 letters of it's name.
Not
Sucking
Would
Date
I’m still trying to get my endgame engine but I have got mighty close as I’m trying to get a NSWGR 3801 as at the moment I have both 3806 and 3803 but I really want to get nice model of my favorite engine
I might need to get some of these couplings…
Take off the steps, and I'd say if you have a better runner but slightly less detailed, its kind of a loose-loose situation.
Shes a beauty! And at a steal too! Id love to see you do more model railway content
*sings the Eight Freight Blues*
Just wondering, are you going to Dord in Stoom this weekend, I know I will be there on Saturday.
Honestly forgot it was happening this year, but yes, I will definitely be going in that case.
Wait are we going no train fair song, we need an alternate to the cashies song
300 dollars?
Trust me the swedish locomotives goes like feaking 1000
What is that line on your left thumb1
It is a pigment defect most commonly seen on dark skinned infants. It doesn't go away.
90 euros is a steal for basically any model these days
:Pensive Emoji:
Je kan een triang 2700 kopen en in ns kleuren schilderen voor een budget 1500
Als ik ooit een 27000 vind zal dat haar lot zijn, ja.
Inderdaad
..... Where the hell do you find an Artitec 3700 for 400€?? That's cheap for that thing!! XD
186th
also don't take the steps off
I’m gonna do anything what about you do you move the body of the train due to see okay hold on what about you take a Dremel bogey get a Dremel and twin the depths from them go bargain deal deal better my God that’s good looking like kind of like move or I don’t wanna hinge get them or a boy told them to adapt to move up a little I didn’t know how to get that wagon I don’t have a gun buggy engine I have a one to go for me or scale only Coolio I have a Hornby 0 4 0 welcome moulded in the GWR and the number on a guide plate 101 I need a girl or a scale go one tiny Wales is oo