@@FotografHuatorp I ended up making a 200 hour service guide video. its can be found in the link below . studio.ua-cam.com/users/videouvZyqtqUpjI/edit. I also made a guide for just the charger damper
this henry is the real GOAT, the newest shaman. He talks with chris porter, he do an everesting with no padding and an enduro, now he takes apart a fork like a master. This is the man.
Some important steps missing there from the rockshox service Henry. Especially the orientation of the circlip, MASSIVELY important, one side has smooth edge, one sharp. Sharp MUST go outwards/down. Didnt look like u checked, hope by chance u got it right!
The manual said something about some maxima plush fork oil to put in the negative and positive chambers of the airspring. maybe it does not apply to Pike? i own a Lyrik
I had a lot of fun taking my 2012 Reba's apart when I got them used this spring. I learned a lot about the duel air system. Problem is my Bike cave / workshop was my front porch and it's now 5 degrees out...
Wondering about the bit where you remove the top out bumper. I know my Luftkappe does not have one and never had any issues ... but not so sure about a stock standard airspring ... please give us more details on this removal ?
I removed it the other day and now my fork tops out! Like it's the top out bumper not the bottom? God knows,I didnt notice it while doing a ride just now but when off the bike and sharply pull on forks it chunks. I'll have to slap it back in when I do it again
Should you do a damper side service every time you do an airspring service? Or should one be more frequent? Great vid by the way, I wish I had watched this when I did my fork service.
@GMBN Tech: that general rule that the air spring has to be longer than the damper shaft is NOT true for all forks. I was upgrading the travel on a customer's 34 Rythm today and the air spring was 10mm longer than the damper. I had spoken to Fox personally to verify that the air spring I was putting in was compatible with the damper but did some serious second guesssing due to this advice! I guess you meant significantly longer, by some margin unbeknownst to me.
There's no way that a blob of grease is going to withstand the air pressure trying to migrate through the equalisation port. It's a total myth that frequently mention on all the forums. I didn't expect to hear it mentioned here too. Sucking down occurs due to either a worn piston seal, or incorrect assembly/inflation.
question, how would removing that top out bumper increase your negative air chamber size. wouldn't it reduce it because you are removing a spacer on that shaft and by doing so you effectively will allow the fork to extend further into the negative air?
Worth pointing out for anyone with the pre Debonair airshaft the circlip needs to be twisted onto the raised bit. The new design on the debonair is much easier and Henry has obviously done this a few times, don’t despair if it’s more fiddly. If you change travel at the same time the new airshaft is easily worth the extra £/$/€ 10
Great vid - can you do one on replacing / upgrading the damper ? Also, thought had seen that you are supposed to clean / re-grease the inside of the fork tube ?
@Henry Quinney I plan on upgrading my Lyrik from a Charger 2 RC to a Charger 2.1 RC2, so I definitely second the damper upgrade video! I'm also upgrading the airspring, so this video is already super helpful!
@Henry Quinney cleaning and lightly regreasing inside stanchion is pretty vital sorry henry. Least on RS. The grease can get dirty, u cant properly inspect inside without thorough clean, and then a tiny bit on the seal head will spread so thin that it will be ineffective. Also, pulling the spring out dorsnt clean the grease out at all...the grease sits above it. Have to say, not doing this part as per sram service steps risks dry seal head and problems down the road. Nit to mention, orientation of the circlip. The most vital part. It ur have smooth edge down, they can pull out, even if seated well. Think an edit to add that bit is vital...has potential for fork fubar and maybe crashes as a result...unlikely, but possible. Sorry to not be my usual H fan self...but agree with poster...key (on RS) elements missing. Will post separately re the top out bumper...major no no on new RS airsprings...too much neg then
@@SpineShank7 watch thr sram RS video...they have one specifically for spring upgrade...some essential steps missing in this 'quick freshen up' version. Espec circlip orientation. Try just the spring first. Massive difference for little £. Damper is tiny (imperceptible) difference for loads of £. Plus, u will not need any tokens in airpring after get lastest spring, as neg is so big, u will barely/rarely use 100% travel with none. But will need to also up ur pressure (I.e. just redo sag setting, dont use old spring pressure)
You Missed cleaning out all the old grease from inside the stanchion, and clean with isopropyl, and then lightly regreasing 15cm around inside again. Key, certainly on RS. That tiny bit on the seal head is insufficient, will lead to binding later...make the fork worse after a few rides. Really need to be careful what gmbn recommends different to manufacturer stated steps, as will lead to problems for your average joe giving it a go. + Exposes psn.
Should one put a little bit of pressure in the air spring before attaching and bolting the lowers on to prevent air in the lowers (and negative chambers) Pleae help
How often should forks be serviced as I’ve never bothered with it before and mine still feel fine, but yes newly serviced would probably feel very plush and nice
I literally just received my pike spring upgrade just like this one, great timing! One question: won't removing the top-out bumper make all top-outs harsh? Or does the air pressure prevent the parts from hitting anyway?
W B actually the opposite, the bumper can be felt when top out occurs and without it it will happen smother and through pneumatic pressure without need for bumper.
@@finncable5466 So how come they include it then? I am about to change my lyrik from 170-180, so wondering if I might also remove the bump stop if there's one in there.
You sir are a life saver. I have one question though that may apply to another video I couldn't find: I changed the air shaft of my 150 Lyric Ultimate 2021 model to a 160 mm C1 but the visible distance of the stanchions is approximately 155mm. Is this normal?
I've done this in the past didn't have an issue this time around I'm working on 2019 lyrics 170mm I got the updated 180mm air shaft I removed black spacer (topout) like you recommended. The fork isn't smother reassembled and it's sitting at about the 15% sag setting when I'm not on it 😒 what do you recommend? When I was assembling the lowers b4 I added air after adding the bath oil I fully compressed the fork with the lower bolts installed a few threads burping the air out of the lowers as I compressed it.
Really good tip with the bottom out bumper, will try that. Sometimes the shafts get stuck when pulling on the sliders when doing a lower leg service. If the damper shaft get stuck and you pull on it too hard, over extending it it, can the damper get damaged?
Hi Henry, I didn't explain it very well at all. I bought a second hand bike and it had obviously been neglected. I had to service everything on the bike. The bike came with Lyric RC2's. I thought I'd dislodged both shafts from the base of the slider legs. The damper shaft must have been still attached to the base of the slider though, I did manage to get the sliders quite far down before I realised this. After your comment about pulling apart the damper and causing serious damage, I wondered if it was possible to damage them by just pulling too hard on the damper shaft. having said all this the forks work ok :)
you can use the dynamic seal grease from sram 1:05
5 років тому
Debonair upgrade video suggests using SRAM butter. So SRAM butter is definitely ok. Also, SRAM guide video used hella more lube on all the seals. Source: ua-cam.com/video/5ir-wUrWaTs/v-deo.html Really like that Henry, brings nice mechanic tricks to GMBN! 🤘
Hey Henry or Doddy, how does one lower the travel of a rockshox boxxer rc, ive looked everywhere and all ive found was someone saying to cut the spring and add a spacer to make up the difference but idk how I feel about cutting the spring, its a 2015 boxxer if that helps. I knows its possible because specialized did it with the specialized enduro evo expert to 180mm for the 2015 model, just dont know how, is there a shorter spring that can be purchased? Before you ask why I want to shorten the travel because its an extra fork I have just sitting in the garage and want to use it on a mondraker dune xr haha 🤓
I cannot see how removing the bumper increases (!) the volume of the air chamber!? The length of the chamber shrinks by the height of the bumper which will affect the chambers volume, too. Second, Iam guessing it will increase travel as more of the airshaft is exposed out of the stanchion towards the bottom of the fork.
If you made this bumper larger it would reduce the volume of this chamber (just as the plastic volume spacers do in the positive air spring). Removing the bumper allows for the maximum amount of volume available. Don't worry the shaft remains the same length so travel won't be affected.
@@gmbntech I'm sorry gmbn, but it does.. I changed to the debon air today, and removed this piece. When I pumped up the fork I got about 190mm stroke and a fork that banged as hell when it returned up. So it was just to dismantle it all again and put the lite plastic fella back and then it worked like a charm. I swore a bit I have to admit. This was on a lyrik 2018.
Is anyone tried to put Fox Fluid or gearbox oil at the top of air spring? I think that Fox is doing that in thier maintenance manuals. I think it should help in constant lubrication because butter simply sticks to inner tube. And I don't know why but for me idea with removing this piece of rubber will increse a stroke? For like 10mm or hopefully I am wrong.
Follow the manufacturer steps for ur fork. E.g. the 2020 onwards pike/lyrik etc use a special new fluid, not grease. But mixing these to older forks will cause seal problems. H missed this key point...the new new RS dont use grease like that...will ruin the fork Sram website has all service vids
@@rupedog it wouldn't ruin the fork if you put grease in the new air pistons or putting oil in the old air pistons. the newer pikes and such (2019 onward) will only call for oil if you use the dynamic seal grease, but if other grease is used (suck as slick honey) it doesn't require oil. do your research.
I would advise against it... tried it for fun and ended up getting oil in the equalising port and got the dreaded suck down. perhaps just a a drop to lubricate. It all best forced into the negative chamber after some time
Great vid Henry, thanks! Quick question, I did a lower leg service on my Manitou m30's, and with the new sus oil the air spring side bolt just doesn't want to tighten up. I can hear it spinning on the inside which is frustrating. Tried to pump it up to 120psi, but still no joy. Any suggestions?
Hi GMBN. I'd like to ask; in order to reduce the travel the Pikes (160 to 150 (or 140) can I cut down the air shaft rather than replacing it? I've heard that for 150 there should be enough tread left to retain the shaft. Thanks for any input.
#AskGMBNTech #AskHenry the compression adjustments on my RS revelation charger don't seem to have any effect on the fork. Doesn't seem to make it softer or harder like my revelation MoCo
I owe pike 2020 for a week. It feels like upper legs are not slippery enough to slide in lower legs and that gives me weird sensation of having loose head set. It's like knocking sensation. My headset is definitely ok and tight. Is that normal on new pikes ?
@@evans9213 for my weigh rockshox suggests maximum pressure of not more than 160psi. I run it at 115 ish. My compression is open in full and rebound in 2 clicks towards turtle and rockshox suggests max 5 clicks for my weight. It's pike select model
@@evans9213 my misses Judy doesn't do that and my old suntour also. I will record a video about it and then contact rockshox. Thanks for reply PS - I also had a bike upsidedown to get all oil down to seals to let them soak and that didn't help
Does removing the topout spacer really give that much more volume? Going by the drawings in the RS service manuals, the negative chamber looks to be quite big and it also uses the volume of the air shaft itself. Removing a tiny spacer doesn't seem like it would make that big of a difference when the negative chamber is already massive.
Great bike , rides smooth ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing
Servicing an air fork is very much like making love to a beautiful woman. You've got have the right tools ready. Use plenty of "butter" and most important, make sure she doesn't have your eye out when inspecting the shaft.
What a shame. As he said, working on an object that has pressure can be dangerous, and expansive. And yet they cut out god knows how much of the progress in the beginning. So this video is completely pointless for a beginner. And i don´t really get it. Its youtube, They can make videos 10 hours long if they want. Why not include the ACTUAL entire steps, so i am able to service my fork properly. Instead it has to be a research puzzle on the internet. Planty of room for errors.
Absolutely Incorrect. The most knowledgeable team member by miles (even if I feel some keys bits missed on this vid), hense being called 'the prof'. And doddy is retro knowledge master, so they make an AWESOME team. H is bloody hilarious too with his banter...love the paired vids, so so funny.
Life is too short for negativity. If you don't like Henry fair enough, you don't have to watch his videos. I think his knowledge gained from being a world cup mechanic is invaluable, especially his tips and hacks. His humour and banter may not be for everyone, but I find it refreshing. He's just being himself, which is all anyone can do.
@@bluestraycat ur being negative posting that passive agressive comment...also being an ex world cup mechanic for some mediocre team hasnt resulted in any ground breaking advice that i have seen.
8:48 - *IMPORTANT* Be sure to reinstall this Circlip/C-Clip in the same orientation as stock - with sharper edges facing out.
What size circlip tools do I need for a Fox 36 and reverb? I tried to order one and got lost
How's about a full-service video on the damper side of a pike Fork
Check out this vid - everything but the air spring. ua-cam.com/video/53xsikeHofY/v-deo.html
Agree
@@FotografHuatorp I ended up making a 200 hour service guide video. its can be found in the link below . studio.ua-cam.com/users/videouvZyqtqUpjI/edit. I also made a guide for just the charger damper
this henry is the real GOAT, the newest shaman. He talks with chris porter, he do an everesting with no padding and an enduro, now he takes apart a fork like a master. This is the man.
Great work Henry! Never done this service but your video gives me the confidence to give it a go. Great tip regarding removing the bottom out spacer.
Love your videos! Keep making them!
PLEASE wear eye protection when dealing with circlips. It only takes one to ping off the end of the pliers and you'll be monocular in a second.
Some important steps missing there from the rockshox service Henry.
Especially the orientation of the circlip, MASSIVELY important, one side has smooth edge, one sharp. Sharp MUST go outwards/down.
Didnt look like u checked, hope by chance u got it right!
Nice, I’ve never done this service but I will now!
Just had to get the air out of the neg chamber on my new lyric 170's. Scat a satisfying sound THAT makes 🔊👌😁
A spanner is a British wrench. I'm learning English
watching GCN and GMBN. I'm an American, I don't speak English, but one day soon!
The manual said something about some maxima plush fork oil to put in the negative and positive chambers of the airspring. maybe it does not apply to Pike? i own a Lyrik
Please make more of these
I had a lot of fun taking my 2012 Reba's apart when I got them used this spring. I learned a lot about the duel air system. Problem is my Bike cave / workshop was my front porch and it's now 5 degrees out...
Wondering about the bit where you remove the top out bumper. I know my Luftkappe does not have one and never had any issues ... but not so sure about a stock standard airspring ... please give us more details on this removal ?
I removed it the other day and now my fork tops out! Like it's the top out bumper not the bottom? God knows,I didnt notice it while doing a ride just now but when off the bike and sharply pull on forks it chunks. I'll have to slap it back in when I do it again
Done. Managed the damper too with the help of another video
Should you do a damper side service every time you do an airspring service? Or should one be more frequent?
Great vid by the way, I wish I had watched this when I did my fork service.
@5:25 Good advice Henry!
"Make sure its clean before you go in" 🤣
@8:20 "hold it nice and firm while you try to get it in" you are killing me
Thats to easy! 😀😀
@GMBN Tech: that general rule that the air spring has to be longer than the damper shaft is NOT true for all forks. I was upgrading the travel on a customer's 34 Rythm today and the air spring was 10mm longer than the damper. I had spoken to Fox personally to verify that the air spring I was putting in was compatible with the damper but did some serious second guesssing due to this advice! I guess you meant significantly longer, by some margin unbeknownst to me.
There's no way that a blob of grease is going to withstand the air pressure trying to migrate through the equalisation port. It's a total myth that frequently mention on all the forums. I didn't expect to hear it mentioned here too.
Sucking down occurs due to either a worn piston seal, or incorrect assembly/inflation.
question, how would removing that top out bumper increase your negative air chamber size. wouldn't it reduce it because you are removing a spacer on that shaft and by doing so you effectively will allow the fork to extend further into the negative air?
Worth pointing out for anyone with the pre Debonair airshaft the circlip needs to be twisted onto the raised bit. The new design on the debonair is much easier and Henry has obviously done this a few times, don’t despair if it’s more fiddly. If you change travel at the same time the new airshaft is easily worth the extra £/$/€ 10
Hi there ,Will removing the bumper not make it noisy? Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the helpful video
now i can try it my self
Jolly good show, old bean
Great video - Can you please do a service on the damper side of the Pike fork, or is that not really necessary?
Are there any disadvantages to removing the bottom out bumper? Can this cause damage?
@Henry Quinney Thanks Henry!
Perfect. Keep these coming.
Great vid - can you do one on replacing / upgrading the damper ? Also, thought had seen that you are supposed to clean / re-grease the inside of the fork tube ?
@Henry Quinney I plan on upgrading my Lyrik from a Charger 2 RC to a Charger 2.1 RC2, so I definitely second the damper upgrade video! I'm also upgrading the airspring, so this video is already super helpful!
@Henry Quinney cleaning and lightly regreasing inside stanchion is pretty vital sorry henry. Least on RS. The grease can get dirty, u cant properly inspect inside without thorough clean, and then a tiny bit on the seal head will spread so thin that it will be ineffective.
Also, pulling the spring out dorsnt clean the grease out at all...the grease sits above it. Have to say, not doing this part as per sram service steps risks dry seal head and problems down the road.
Nit to mention, orientation of the circlip. The most vital part. It ur have smooth edge down, they can pull out, even if seated well.
Think an edit to add that bit is vital...has potential for fork fubar and maybe crashes as a result...unlikely, but possible.
Sorry to not be my usual H fan self...but agree with poster...key (on RS) elements missing.
Will post separately re the top out bumper...major no no on new RS airsprings...too much neg then
@@SpineShank7 watch thr sram RS video...they have one specifically for spring upgrade...some essential steps missing in this 'quick freshen up' version. Espec circlip orientation.
Try just the spring first. Massive difference for little £.
Damper is tiny (imperceptible) difference for loads of £.
Plus, u will not need any tokens in airpring after get lastest spring, as neg is so big, u will barely/rarely use 100% travel with none. But will need to also up ur pressure (I.e. just redo sag setting, dont use old spring pressure)
@Henry Quinney thanks ! MoCo to charger pls (something I am considering).
@@rupedog Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely try it with just the spring first.
You Missed cleaning out all the old grease from inside the stanchion, and clean with isopropyl, and then lightly regreasing 15cm around inside again. Key, certainly on RS. That tiny bit on the seal head is insufficient, will lead to binding later...make the fork worse after a few rides.
Really need to be careful what gmbn recommends different to manufacturer stated steps, as will lead to problems for your average joe giving it a go. + Exposes psn.
#gmbntech Could we see a damper side service, always been curious on if my over simplified understanding of it is in any way correct lol. Thanks!
This is sa great idea. See as youhave the time now.
Great video Mr Quinney👍 and very helpful, 😀👍
Should one put a little bit of pressure in the air spring before attaching and bolting the lowers on to prevent air in the lowers (and negative chambers) Pleae help
How often should forks be serviced as I’ve never bothered with it before and mine still feel fine, but yes newly serviced would probably feel very plush and nice
I literally just received my pike spring upgrade just like this one, great timing! One question: won't removing the top-out bumper make all top-outs harsh? Or does the air pressure prevent the parts from hitting anyway?
W B actually the opposite, the bumper can be felt when top out occurs and without it it will happen smother and through pneumatic pressure without need for bumper.
@@finncable5466 ah that makes sense. Wish I could find a review on this mod.
Thanks
@@finncable5466 So how come they include it then? I am about to change my lyrik from 170-180, so wondering if I might also remove the bump stop if there's one in there.
Just what i needed. Thank you !
Park tools have many circlip pliers in different sizes. Can you tell us which one you were using?
Going to guess RP4 ?
You sir are a life saver. I have one question though that may apply to another video I couldn't find: I changed the air shaft of my 150 Lyric Ultimate 2021 model to a 160 mm C1 but the visible distance of the stanchions is approximately 155mm. Is this normal?
I've done this in the past didn't have an issue this time around I'm working on 2019 lyrics 170mm I got the updated 180mm air shaft I removed black spacer (topout) like you recommended. The fork isn't smother reassembled and it's sitting at about the 15% sag setting when I'm not on it 😒 what do you recommend? When I was assembling the lowers b4 I added air after adding the bath oil I fully compressed the fork with the lower bolts installed a few threads burping the air out of the lowers as I compressed it.
Please switch around that one torque wrench in the wall it’s killing me
Why did u point it out
furiuskiller 6 idk sorry
Now I can't unsee that ....
Really good tip with the bottom out bumper, will try that.
Sometimes the shafts get stuck when pulling on the sliders when doing a lower leg service. If the damper shaft get stuck and you pull on it too hard, over extending it it, can the damper get damaged?
Hi Henry, I didn't explain it very well at all. I bought a second hand bike and it had obviously been neglected. I had to service everything on the bike. The bike came with Lyric RC2's. I thought I'd dislodged both shafts from the base of the slider legs. The damper shaft must have been still attached to the base of the slider though, I did manage to get the sliders quite far down before I realised this.
After your comment about pulling apart the damper and causing serious damage, I wondered if it was possible to damage them by just pulling too hard on the damper shaft. having said all this the forks work ok :)
Thanks very helpful!
you can use the dynamic seal grease from sram 1:05
Debonair upgrade video suggests using SRAM butter. So SRAM butter is definitely ok. Also, SRAM guide video used hella more lube on all the seals. Source: ua-cam.com/video/5ir-wUrWaTs/v-deo.html
Really like that Henry, brings nice mechanic tricks to GMBN! 🤘
Henry you beast! Double dipping too ✌️
how about putting some loctite on that valve instead of lube just to be sure therse no air leak?
did enybody removed that negative chamber spacer? and was it different
I did, it fucked it all up, had to put it back. Bad advice
could u make a coil shock service video
This may seem like a stupid question but does the rod for the air spring need to be greased of does It get lubricated by the lower leg oil? Thank you
Can you remove that spacer on the upgraded version
I have a 1.5 month old rockshox lyrik fork. I’ve set the sag etc but turning the compression knob doesn’t seem to do anything? What can this mean?
Hi, if we use maxima fork oil for the lower leg, what WT number should we get? Tia!
Is this normally done while fork is still installed on the bike?
Hey Henry or Doddy, how does one lower the travel of a rockshox boxxer rc, ive looked everywhere and all ive found was someone saying to cut the spring and add a spacer to make up the difference but idk how I feel about cutting the spring, its a 2015 boxxer if that helps. I knows its possible because specialized did it with the specialized enduro evo expert to 180mm for the 2015 model, just dont know how, is there a shorter spring that can be purchased? Before you ask why I want to shorten the travel because its an extra fork I have just sitting in the garage and want to use it on a mondraker dune xr haha 🤓
Hi Henry. Any idea on how to service a 2001 Rockshox Hydra Air SID XC? Planning on tackling it myself. Thanks!
this guy is Bob Ross of mountain biking
hello, why now in extension you feel a knock as if it reached the end of the stroke. are there any shims to remove? thank you
I cannot see how removing the bumper increases (!) the volume of the air chamber!? The length of the chamber shrinks by the height of the bumper which will affect the chambers volume, too. Second, Iam guessing it will increase travel as more of the airshaft is exposed out of the stanchion towards the bottom of the fork.
If you made this bumper larger it would reduce the volume of this chamber (just as the plastic volume spacers do in the positive air spring). Removing the bumper allows for the maximum amount of volume available. Don't worry the shaft remains the same length so travel won't be affected.
@@gmbntech I'm sorry gmbn, but it does.. I changed to the debon air today, and removed this piece. When I pumped up the fork I got about 190mm stroke and a fork that banged as hell when it returned up. So it was just to dismantle it all again and put the lite plastic fella back and then it worked like a charm. I swore a bit I have to admit. This was on a lyrik 2018.
Can you please. Please. Make a video for manitou m30 airfork. Mine is loosing air. Ill pump 85psi but the next day it only ratains around 20-25psi
Maybe cleaning the old grease out first? Can you use that butter grease in every air fork? What about coil forks?
@Henry Quinney thanks!
Is anyone tried to put Fox Fluid or gearbox oil at the top of air spring? I think that Fox is doing that in thier maintenance manuals. I think it should help in constant lubrication because butter simply sticks to inner tube.
And I don't know why but for me idea with removing this piece of rubber will increse a stroke? For like 10mm or hopefully I am wrong.
Follow the manufacturer steps for ur fork. E.g. the 2020 onwards pike/lyrik etc use a special new fluid, not grease. But mixing these to older forks will cause seal problems. H missed this key point...the new new RS dont use grease like that...will ruin the fork
Sram website has all service vids
@@rupedog it wouldn't ruin the fork if you put grease in the new air pistons or putting oil in the old air pistons. the newer pikes and such (2019 onward) will only call for oil if you use the dynamic seal grease, but if other grease is used (suck as slick honey) it doesn't require oil. do your research.
I would advise against it... tried it for fun and ended up getting oil in the equalising port and got the dreaded suck down. perhaps just a a drop to lubricate. It all best forced into the negative chamber after some time
#GMBNtech if there any chance? The damper shaft got scratch is the fork skill safe to use or we have to replace the whole fork?
How can the air leg ever be longer than the damper? Surely it is a fixed length from the factory.
What should I say? Thanks! Love you guys!
literally swapped to a longer travel air spring 2 weeks ago haha
please put grease or threadlocker on any threads on your bike.
what tools do I need to buy？
Can you do a how to on a manitou Mattoc please?
Cheers👍
Superb!
Bob Ross of bike servicing.
🤣
What service do you want to see in real-time next? Let us know!
everything
You should do a video on how to find the right part for your model and where to find them online
Dropper post for sure
Fox DHX2
Hydraulic dropper post service please.
Great vid Henry, thanks! Quick question, I did a lower leg service on my Manitou m30's, and with the new sus oil the air spring side bolt just doesn't want to tighten up. I can hear it spinning on the inside which is frustrating. Tried to pump it up to 120psi, but still no joy. Any suggestions?
Put some more air into chamber, I had same problem. Because of low pressure gasket is spinnig around and you can't tighten up shaft.
You forgot the oil in positive and negative chamber ... 😉
Hi GMBN. I'd like to ask; in order to reduce the travel the Pikes (160 to 150 (or 140) can I cut down the air shaft rather than replacing it? I've heard that for 150 there should be enough tread left to retain the shaft. Thanks for any input.
5:17 Youre supposed to keep that extra cap? i threw mine out rip
#AskGMBNTech #AskHenry the compression adjustments on my RS revelation charger don't seem to have any effect on the fork. Doesn't seem to make it softer or harder like my revelation MoCo
Lets Play PSVR needs a damper service
@@finncable5466 really? The bikes brand new.. I'll have to contact the shop and see what they say.
Lets Play PSVR if your sure it’s having no effect that means fork not performing properly which means needs a service
4:17 Fluttery? What do you mean by that?
More sensitive to small bumps.
@@krzysiu4003 Thank you very much!
can i use sram butter on sunotur forks too?
I owe pike 2020 for a week. It feels like upper legs are not slippery enough to slide in lower legs and that gives me weird sensation of having loose head set. It's like knocking sensation. My headset is definitely ok and tight.
Is that normal on new pikes ?
Maybe you should adjust your air pressure and low speed compression (if you have the pike ultimate) or the rebound
@@evans9213 for my weigh rockshox suggests maximum pressure of not more than 160psi. I run it at 115 ish. My compression is open in full and rebound in 2 clicks towards turtle and rockshox suggests max 5 clicks for my weight. It's pike select model
@@MartinTeerly I dont think it's normal, pikes are really good, try to go to your local dealer
@@evans9213 my misses Judy doesn't do that and my old suntour also. I will record a video about it and then contact rockshox. Thanks for reply
PS - I also had a bike upsidedown to get all oil down to seals to let them soak and that didn't help
If you have any concerns we suggest you contact your local Rockshox dealer and they will be able to advise you.
Had a hard time trying to put the c clip back in its place tho...
#askgnmbtech what blue roll do you guys use? Been looking for lint-free blue roll but can only find towels
try an auto store. In the UK Halfords stock it.
Does removing the topout spacer really give that much more volume? Going by the drawings in the RS service manuals, the negative chamber looks to be quite big and it also uses the volume of the air shaft itself. Removing a tiny spacer doesn't seem like it would make that big of a difference when the negative chamber is already massive.
Could you guys do one with a coil shock? 👍
Henry Quinney , awesome sounds good. Cheers Henry 👍👍👍
I bet you live in the same town as Allen Millard
ASMR
#AskGMBNtech
Can you replace a fork with one with longer travel? Cheers!
You left GMBN!!!🥺
Great bike , rides smooth ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L I added a bigger spring loaded seat to it . Takes a bit of adjusting cables to get brakes and shifting to perfect . I've owned quite a few bikes in the past that were absolutely uncomfortable to ride and they always ended up as garage wall decor . I'm not seeing that with this one. It's pretty light I've only ridden it a few miles but I like it . As for the pedals falling off in the other reviews , the pedal arms are aluminum along with the pedal studs look to be also . I would not overtighten them. I can see it would be very easy to overtighten them and strip the threads right off . All in all I think it's pretty good quality besides the aluminum pedal thing
I only have coil forks 😢
I do it with my 50 hour
Real time? Really? Half the work is already done before the video.
Hi
the amount of products and tools you have to buy to ride a bike is ridiculous but aye mountain biking isnt for the working class people x)
Not sure I can take Henry seriously with that nose ring.
Servicing an air fork is very much like making love to a beautiful woman. You've got have the right tools ready. Use plenty of "butter" and most important, make sure she doesn't have your eye out when inspecting the shaft.
What a shame. As he said, working on an object that has pressure can be dangerous, and expansive. And yet they cut out god knows how much of the progress in the beginning. So this video is completely pointless for a beginner. And i don´t really get it. Its youtube, They can make videos 10 hours long if they want. Why not include the ACTUAL entire steps, so i am able to service my fork properly. Instead it has to be a research puzzle on the internet. Planty of room for errors.
Too much talk bruh 🥱
First :P
🏆 🏁
Henry is dead weight
Absolutely Incorrect. The most knowledgeable team member by miles (even if I feel some keys bits missed on this vid), hense being called 'the prof'. And doddy is retro knowledge master, so they make an AWESOME team.
H is bloody hilarious too with his banter...love the paired vids, so so funny.
@@rupedog i cant tell if u r being sarcastic or not. Henrys sense of humor is lame and awkward...and his high pitch girly laugh is cringe worthy
Life is too short for negativity. If you don't like Henry fair enough, you don't have to watch his videos. I think his knowledge gained from being a world cup mechanic is invaluable, especially his tips and hacks. His humour and banter may not be for everyone, but I find it refreshing. He's just being himself, which is all anyone can do.
@@bluestraycat ur being negative posting that passive agressive comment...also being an ex world cup mechanic for some mediocre team hasnt resulted in any ground breaking advice that i have seen.
@@petemichalski487 in that case I guess you will stop watching his videos, and stop posting negative comments as well?