Great video!!! As an automotive mechanic, I can say you definitely know your stuff!!! I just bought a Bluebird myself and don't plan on wasting my money at a truck shop!!!!
Thanks for watching bud! Congrats on the bluebird, what motor do yah have? I come from a family of mechanics, tho I don’t claim that name I try really hard not to pay shops😂
@@parishskoolie it’s got a CAT 3116. Eaton 5 speed manual trans. No air brakes. We have her gutted and hope to start seriously converting her this summer. My girlfriend named her Birdie! Subbed to you and can’t wait to watch more.....
@@giulius7176 Hope the conversion is going well. Super jealous of your manual, we have started transmission shopping recently! Our 545 has seen it’s better days.
Great vid ! I have to do the same to my skoolie as the brake pedal feels a bit mushy. I'm an auto tech and just getting started with the diesel stuff but it's exactly the same bleed process as you stated. Hope ya'll all doing well, cheers!
Very nice video, great that you covered all tasks. Many folks skip the details, making their videos not of much value. Where did you purchase the 3" socket to remove the axle nuts? Thanks
Thanks for watching Joe! Appreciate your feedback, luckily I have 5 uncles that are mechanics. I just borrowed one from my favorite uncle! As for the fronts I used a large crescent wrench but I wouldn’t recommend since I’ve learned in the years since this video that they all require 200+ torque specs😳
i have a 88 international dt360 and the rear end set up is the samesies. had a leak and thought it was the calipers initially, replaced those and the leak persisted so now I'm doing the seal. Anyways wouldn't have been able to do it without the video thanks for posting
Wahoo! So happy you were able to get this done. Thanks for watching, best of luck with your travels. Reach out at parishskoolie@gmail.com if you run into further issues.
Hey bud! Can you email us at parishskoolie@gmail.com We are fixing to start our manual transmission swap, I have the donor bus ViN but still having issues sourcing it.
Did you not refill the gear oil in the wheel assembly? I can't find it anywhere in your video, I'm trying to find where to refill it on mine and I'm hoping you didn't forget to do yours.
We did refill it! Thanks for your concern thanks 🙏🏼 It’s not in this one, but we show where to refill it in our How To Maintenance Your School Bus video 🚌
Thanks for watching buddy! Happy this video is still finding use to folks after three years. If I remember correctly my new calipers came with fresh copper washers. I definitely used new ones but didn’t set out to buy them. They either came with the calipers or brake hoses that I purchased! Wish I could be more helpful:(
They are not backwards, but I assume the bleeder valve came in a baggie if you bought them calipers new. Brake line should go on the bottom, bleeder on top cause that's where air sits. But if it brakes fine then whatever
@@TiberiuTiru Exactly. New calipers & hardware, I mirrored the way it came off so these bleeders were already on the bottom. Makes sense tho! Thanks for watching!
@@parishskoolie I know this is over a year old now, and I have just subscribed so I’m not even sure if you still have this bus. But I believe “Bruce Barkley” is actually correct, normally bleeders are always on the top, air goes up of course with gravity. You can’t see as well in this video when you took off the caliper but I do believe they are backwards side to side. If you rewatch the video on the front brakes, it appears the bleeder is on the top when removing the caliper, on the bottom when re-installing.
@@johnh9888 thanks for watching! We do still indeed have the bus. Full time living in it actually. We have put over 5,000 miles on it since doing this job and everything is working great. I do recognize there’s a difference in the back brakes, but does that matter when everything is functioning correctly? 🥴
Free Range Nomad No packing grease with these bearings!! Hallelujah! These get a bath of gear oil within each hub. Also, I returned the impact! Didn’t do enough work for the price. The cordless 1” Earthquake is a BEAST $300 it’s breaking everything loose or off 😂
@@parishskoolie Sweet Deal on the gear oil bath !! Thanks for the review on the Bauer. When yall go to add a generator here is the info on where to get a wireless remote (key fob) start and auxillary fuel tank set up for certain gens. (I'm not getting anything for sharing the info btw.) www.pinellaspowerproducts.com / I know vandweller that has used the stuff for 4 yrs without any probs.
Free Range Nomad Nice!! I wondered how to rig up a regular generator for RV use. Thanks for the link, all we should need is an auxiliary tank. We yanked a 4K watt ONAN out of the RV, it has the whole wiring harness to start inside so finger crossed we don’t have any issues with that. It’s a 1990 model with 82 hours!! Haven’t even had its first oil change.
I do not know the part numbers off hand anymore. I have the whole invoice of parts I bought filed away from three years ago. I’d have to dig but I have it somewhere. Hopefully I can beat ya to it
@@parishskoolie no need to dig around. I realized after I commented how long ago it was you did it. I caved and called the Freightliner dealer yesterday and got the rotors. Nice video btw. Our rear rotors were broke between the fins on both sides. No clue how long they were broke in half but it still stopped. Lol
Thanks for the multiple comments! Others have pointed that out over the years. You are correct, but we’ve done 10k miles like this now with no issues. Even bled the whole system 3k miles ago with fresh fluid, no issues. Hope it doesn’t start now🤞🏼
I seen where you said to loosen one full turn from where you tighten the first nut..I don't think that's correct..might be to loose and I also seen on your rear calipers..that they might need to be swapped...bleeders should be on top not bottom..
Thanks for watching bud! I spoke with a buddy doing this job on an older bus with grease packed bearings & he agreed that a full 360 turn was too much. His wheel turned freely while this wheel nut was all the way tight. I still recommended to him loosening a 1/4 turn. As for my bus, the braking system has been great since this repair. Even tho some folks have pointed out I installed the bleeders incorrectly we still function flawlessly. I may consider fixing it when/if it becomes an issue.
So sorry you didn’t find this video helpful. I’ve had dozens of folks thank me for putting this content out. A few who have met me in person to buy me dinner for the money I’ve saved them. Considering there aren’t a huge selection of videos tailored to this topic, you are going to have a rough time if you can’t complete this job off of what I’ve shown you. As for Chrisfix, he’s been making videos for almost a decade and has nearly 9 million subs now. This is the fourth video my wife & edited/posted. We feel we’ve gotten much better at editing over the previous years, but we appreciate your criticism:)
Great video!!! As an automotive mechanic, I can say you definitely know your stuff!!! I just bought a Bluebird myself and don't plan on wasting my money at a truck shop!!!!
Thanks for watching bud! Congrats on the bluebird, what motor do yah have?
I come from a family of mechanics, tho I don’t claim that name I try really hard not to pay shops😂
@@parishskoolie it’s got a CAT 3116. Eaton 5 speed manual trans. No air brakes. We have her gutted and hope to start seriously converting her this summer. My girlfriend named her Birdie! Subbed to you and can’t wait to watch more.....
@@giulius7176
Hope the conversion is going well. Super jealous of your manual, we have started transmission shopping recently! Our 545 has seen it’s better days.
Great vid ! I have to do the same to my skoolie as the brake pedal feels a bit mushy. I'm an auto tech and just getting started with the diesel stuff but it's exactly the same bleed process as you stated. Hope ya'll all doing well, cheers!
Best of luck! Thanks for watching. If it’s a dog nose check in between the master cylinder & brake booster too at some point. Mine was full of rust!
@@parishskoolie will do, appreciate it!
Very nice video, great that you covered all tasks. Many folks skip the details, making their videos not of much value. Where did you purchase the 3" socket to remove the axle nuts? Thanks
Thanks for watching Joe! Appreciate your feedback, luckily I have 5 uncles that are mechanics. I just borrowed one from my favorite uncle! As for the fronts I used a large crescent wrench but I wouldn’t recommend since I’ve learned in the years since this video that they all require 200+ torque specs😳
This is phenomenaL thank you 🎉
Thanks for watching!
i have a 88 international dt360 and the rear end set up is the samesies. had a leak and thought it was the calipers initially, replaced those and the leak persisted so now I'm doing the seal. Anyways wouldn't have been able to do it without the video thanks for posting
Wahoo! So happy you were able to get this done. Thanks for watching, best of luck with your travels. Reach out at parishskoolie@gmail.com if you run into further issues.
Using a hammer you can hit the outer flange of the axle next to each stud and it will cause the tapered washers to loosen.
That’s how it works in a perfect world!
I work at a freightliner dealer. If you need anything parts or part number wise off your chassis let me know. I can get you parts breakdowns as well.
That’s awesome 😎 I will certainly keep that in mind 💕
Hey bud! Can you email us at parishskoolie@gmail.com
We are fixing to start our manual transmission swap, I have the donor bus ViN but still having issues sourcing it.
@@parishskoolie done
I am super interested
Did you not refill the gear oil in the wheel assembly? I can't find it anywhere in your video, I'm trying to find where to refill it on mine and I'm hoping you didn't forget to do yours.
We did refill it! Thanks for your concern thanks 🙏🏼 It’s not in this one, but we show where to refill it in our How To Maintenance Your School Bus video 🚌
Great break job.
Thank you! And thanks for watching buddy
Great video. Super helpful on my brake job today. Did you replace those conical washers? If so, where did you find new ones?
Thanks for watching buddy! Happy this video is still finding use to folks after three years.
If I remember correctly my new calipers came with fresh copper washers. I definitely used new ones but didn’t set out to buy them. They either came with the calipers or brake hoses that I purchased! Wish I could be more helpful:(
The bleeder should be at the top of the caliber bud . You have the calipers on backwards . You will never get the air out like that
I don’t think they’re on backwards. The air came out just fine. Thanks for your input!
They are not backwards, but I assume the bleeder valve came in a baggie if you bought them calipers new. Brake line should go on the bottom, bleeder on top cause that's where air sits. But if it brakes fine then whatever
@@TiberiuTiru
Exactly. New calipers & hardware, I mirrored the way it came off so these bleeders were already on the bottom. Makes sense tho! Thanks for watching!
@@parishskoolie I know this is over a year old now, and I have just subscribed so I’m not even sure if you still have this bus. But I believe “Bruce Barkley” is actually correct, normally bleeders are always on the top, air goes up of course with gravity. You can’t see as well in this video when you took off the caliper but I do believe they are backwards side to side. If you rewatch the video on the front brakes, it appears the bleeder is on the top when removing the caliper, on the bottom when re-installing.
@@johnh9888 thanks for watching! We do still indeed have the bus. Full time living in it actually. We have put over 5,000 miles on it since doing this job and everything is working great. I do recognize there’s a difference in the back brakes, but does that matter when everything is functioning correctly? 🥴
Do you have to take both tires off at the same time? Or can you just do one at a time?
You absolutely can do one side at a time (driver vs passenger)
lol bleeder screw is on the bottom of the caliper, gonna have a hard time getting all the air out my friend
Checking out your vids. Great job yall !
I didn't see if you packed the bearings with new grease before you installed them. Was this not necessary on the bus bearings?
How is that HF Bauer Impact holding up? Been thinking of buying one myself.
Free Range Nomad No packing grease with these bearings!! Hallelujah! These get a bath of gear oil within each hub.
Also, I returned the impact! Didn’t do enough work for the price. The cordless 1” Earthquake is a BEAST $300 it’s breaking everything loose or off 😂
@@parishskoolie Sweet Deal on the gear oil bath !! Thanks for the review on the Bauer. When yall go to add a generator here is the info on where to get a wireless remote (key fob) start and auxillary fuel tank set up for certain gens. (I'm not getting anything for sharing the info btw.) www.pinellaspowerproducts.com / I know vandweller that has used the stuff for 4 yrs without any probs.
Free Range Nomad
Nice!! I wondered how to rig up a regular generator for RV use. Thanks for the link, all we should need is an auxiliary tank. We yanked a 4K watt ONAN out of the RV, it has the whole wiring harness to start inside so finger crossed we don’t have any issues with that. It’s a 1990 model with 82 hours!! Haven’t even had its first oil change.
I'm looking at a 2000 chevy BlueBird school bus. What tools would I need to actually bleed the breaks
A crescent wrench and a partner.
You don't have the part number for rear rotors do you? I know it's been a while but I can't find hardly anything
I do not know the part numbers off hand anymore. I have the whole invoice of parts I bought filed away from three years ago. I’d have to dig but I have it somewhere. Hopefully I can beat ya to it
@@parishskoolie no need to dig around. I realized after I commented how long ago it was you did it. I caved and called the Freightliner dealer yesterday and got the rotors.
Nice video btw. Our rear rotors were broke between the fins on both sides. No clue how long they were broke in half but it still stopped. Lol
Great job, working on my coach right now has the same break system do you have part numbers you could share for the rotor and pads?
asl 02040j2531
This is for the brake pads, front & back are the same. Will get back to you with the rotors
@@parishskoolie never got back to him on those rotors but i appreciate the vid i have to do this to a freightliner cowl tomorrow!
Nice bus, great tutorial. I'll bet the air r brakes are harder to service. I like hydraulic brakes. What's the song at 13:30?
Hey, thanks for the watch! The song is called "Glide," it was one of the songs that came with my editing software. Hope that helps!
@@parishskoolie Yes, thanks! Cheers!
Youre welcome, friend 🙂
There is atool made for removing the cones
I am the tool
Tank ,I will do it on my skoolie.
Tank you for watching!
bleeders upside down bro, gonna be hard to get the air out that way. need to swap the calipers from side to side
Thanks for the multiple comments! Others have pointed that out over the years. You are correct, but we’ve done 10k miles like this now with no issues. Even bled the whole system 3k miles ago with fresh fluid, no issues. Hope it doesn’t start now🤞🏼
That grease all on your caliper attracts dirt and dust and will detoriate fast and introduce grit
Thanks for your input! We didn’t think it was necessary to explain that the excess grease needs to be wiped off (so we left it out the video)
Do you have an assis pump for the brakes?
PhilipTheMechanic Boudreau
It has a master cylinder/brake booster. Brake booster draws power from power steering.
I am unfamiliar with an assis pump.
I seen where you said to loosen one full turn from where you tighten the first nut..I don't think that's correct..might be to loose and I also seen on your rear calipers..that they might need to be swapped...bleeders should be on top not bottom..
Thanks for watching bud!
I spoke with a buddy doing this job on an older bus with grease packed bearings & he agreed that a full 360 turn was too much. His wheel turned freely while this wheel nut was all the way tight. I still recommended to him loosening a 1/4 turn.
As for my bus, the braking system has been great since this repair. Even tho some folks have pointed out I installed the bleeders incorrectly we still function flawlessly. I may consider fixing it when/if it becomes an issue.
Seems like you could not run the engine?
Not sure what you mean? Engine runs great, just some maintenance going on here!
Spray PB Blaster On It
PB blaster & heat did the trick, plus many curse words.
U should not be letting the brake fluid go out on the ground!!!! U should have a catch pan under it!!!
Stop that!
You should watch Chrisfix for how to shoot a how-to video..we just watched you do it. Not particularly helpful.
So sorry you didn’t find this video helpful. I’ve had dozens of folks thank me for putting this content out. A few who have met me in person to buy me dinner for the money I’ve saved them. Considering there aren’t a huge selection of videos tailored to this topic, you are going to have a rough time if you can’t complete this job off of what I’ve shown you.
As for Chrisfix, he’s been making videos for almost a decade and has nearly 9 million subs now. This is the fourth video my wife & edited/posted. We feel we’ve gotten much better at editing over the previous years, but we appreciate your criticism:)