Thank you for all your videos...I watch em all. I have not done this before but for all your viewers who like shop tours go to Fleets Wood Shop for a shop like you have never seen. I was amazed. You too, Mr. Nubs.
"It has a microadjuster" Uses 1" diameter sidewalk chalk to mark the cut line :D That old-timey woodworking series is what made me fall in love with your content. "I suppose you could use two saw horses, which may even poop less than regular horses..." Good stuff, man!
Great.. since i subscribe ive learn a lot from you and your videos, never miss a video, watch it till the end and never regret watching none of them👍...
@0:17, "come on, suck it up" LOL. Thanks I needed the laugh! Also, ordered some magnetic dado blade spacers and the owners of the company told me "we didn't know James was going to showcase it and we're little backed up!" I'll have to pick up some MPower sharpeners as well. Thanks again.
I made a large portable arcade machine and used this technique for the side panels. No glue, just keep the dowels sticking out and use pliers to yank them out again for disassembly.
That same offset drilling works in a number of applications. We would offset drill holes in countertops to use the corbels to pull the wall snug to the rear edge of the top.
Holly cow that brace and bit bring back some painful memories. I used them on hedge fence posts many times to hang gates. Growing up my dad was a frugal (cheap) man. He had exactly 2 drills. A little 1/4 inch electric drill and a humungous monster. It has two handles to hold on to and almost a shoulder stock to lean against. When that thing caught it almost break your wrists. Any hole that was in between those two then out came the brace.
You will find that running the brace horizontally with the head pressed with your belly will result in more accurate smother results. See for example some of the Paul Sellers videos.
is there a reason you drill through first with the small diameter bit? rather than just going straight to using the auger bit, and using the point of the auger bit as your marker on the tenon?
The large auger bit can tilt a little when you pit it back in what is a pretty shallow hole. Even a slight tilt will throw off the dimple left by the spur. A small bit seems more accurate.
So I understand how it works for this particular piece, but one question for clarification. You said "about 1/16th of an inch, or 3/32nds below that mark." I am really dumb when it comes to prepositions. Is below always "closer to the tenon shoulder," or is there any other indicator as to what direction it should be? Are there other pieces you drawbore besides mortis and tenons, and what would the rule for those be?
@@StumpyNubs Oh no, the video shows what you mean for this piece. I'm asking in general if that's always the case for any mortise and tenon / other joint you might use this in, that "below" means closer to the shoulder? I'm just imagining if I had an upright piece with tenons on both ends, and wanted to drawbore them, what's below to one is above for the other, if I went by straight up and down. I'm just asking because I am really dumb and this would confuse me (but I'm also the sort of person who has to hold my hands up in corners to remember right from left - so I may just be a lost cause).
@@StumpyNubs Correct, I was asking because I don't trust my perspective. xD I guess I'll just worry about it if I ever make something and end up with a gap in the wrong direction.
Not trying to be rude, but I prefer your speaking style in this video than your newer ones. You come of as more natural. Your production value is better in the newer videos for sure.
@@StumpyNubs I get that and that's not really what I was commenting on, it was more your cadence, body language, and voice modulation. I still really like your videos and it's your channel.
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I have one of your m-powertools router bases. setup is key to using this thing. I like mine. Bought it long ago before you got affiliated with them.
An excellent tutorial on cutting tenons, and I have done many! Helped to confirm some techniques I was already using, but introduced a few new ones.
Clever. I'm always impressed with what people were able to build before power tools and hardware stores.
Hi James, thanks for this, will be useful in my next build.
Great technique! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for all your videos...I watch em all. I have not done this before but for all your viewers who like shop tours go to Fleets Wood Shop for a shop like you have never seen. I was amazed. You too, Mr. Nubs.
Always best advices that works in real situation,Thank you.
Thanks again for sharing with us James
You were so young! My, how the years have gone tearing past me.
Life is like a roll of toilet paper, the closer to the end, the faster it goes!
Good old tips..
You gotta love ‘em 🥰
"It has a microadjuster"
Uses 1" diameter sidewalk chalk to mark the cut line :D
That old-timey woodworking series is what made me fall in love with your content. "I suppose you could use two saw horses, which may even poop less than regular horses..." Good stuff, man!
Great.. since i subscribe ive learn a lot from you and your videos, never miss a video, watch it till the end and never regret watching none of them👍...
love your videos you are a very good teacher. you are fun to watch also.
@0:17, "come on, suck it up" LOL. Thanks I needed the laugh! Also, ordered some magnetic dado blade spacers and the owners of the company told me "we didn't know James was going to showcase it and we're little backed up!" I'll have to pick up some MPower sharpeners as well. Thanks again.
I made a large portable arcade machine and used this technique for the side panels. No glue, just keep the dowels sticking out and use pliers to yank them out again for disassembly.
That same offset drilling works in a number of applications. We would offset drill holes in countertops to use the corbels to pull the wall snug to the rear edge of the top.
Very nice!
Keep these old videos comming :-)
Fascinating, I 've not seen this before, thank you.
liked it then, like it today
This was a great tip. Thanx!
Holly cow that brace and bit bring back some painful memories. I used them on hedge fence posts many times to hang gates. Growing up my dad was a frugal (cheap) man. He had exactly 2 drills. A little 1/4 inch electric drill and a humungous monster. It has two handles to hold on to and almost a shoulder stock to lean against. When that thing caught it almost break your wrists. Any hole that was in between those two then out came the brace.
Great idea! Thanks
Another great video Mr Nubs Most of all Thank you Sir. . .
Fantastic!
Love these tips, more please!
Great tip!
Have you tried placing the pegs / dowels in a drill & driving them in that way?
Perfect timing!
Hope you're doin' ok up there Stumpy. Worried about ya with all the rain and flooding and horrible stuff going on in that area.
Good to see you haven't lost that sense of humor😁
When my holes don’t line up, I thought it was operator error. Thanks for the uplift to my ego.
I enjoy these flashbacks👍
Where to get the longest tennon saw that you have in your workshop ?
👍Then and now 👍❤️
Great video. For once I saw the video before I got a notification...
You will find that running the brace horizontally with the head pressed with your belly will result in more accurate smother results. See for example some of the Paul Sellers videos.
"it could be easier. We're wood workers. Suck it up!" ROFL
Stumpy - like your videos. Need to buy a hand drill like your using in this video. Where can I find them.
Antique shops, flea markets, estate sales, ebay.
You've called these older videos "cheesy". Not at all. Yeah, you are more "professional" now, but I think you were fine back then, too.
is there a reason you drill through first with the small diameter bit? rather than just going straight to using the auger bit, and using the point of the auger bit as your marker on the tenon?
The large auger bit can tilt a little when you pit it back in what is a pretty shallow hole. Even a slight tilt will throw off the dimple left by the spur. A small bit seems more accurate.
@@StumpyNubs that makes sense, thanks!
Is there a recommended ratio of pin diameter to joint thickness (assuming joint is three equally pieces)?
Hey Stumpy - you staying above water?
Yes, my house is on high ground, as is the downtown where my shop is.
So I understand how it works for this particular piece, but one question for clarification. You said "about 1/16th of an inch, or 3/32nds below that mark." I am really dumb when it comes to prepositions. Is below always "closer to the tenon shoulder," or is there any other indicator as to what direction it should be? Are there other pieces you drawbore besides mortis and tenons, and what would the rule for those be?
I think the video showed precisely what I meant, didn't it? 0:52
@@StumpyNubs Oh no, the video shows what you mean for this piece. I'm asking in general if that's always the case for any mortise and tenon / other joint you might use this in, that "below" means closer to the shoulder?
I'm just imagining if I had an upright piece with tenons on both ends, and wanted to drawbore them, what's below to one is above for the other, if I went by straight up and down. I'm just asking because I am really dumb and this would confuse me (but I'm also the sort of person who has to hold my hands up in corners to remember right from left - so I may just be a lost cause).
I think you are reading too much meaning into one word. "Above" and
Below" has more to do with your perspective than anything else.
@@StumpyNubs Correct, I was asking because I don't trust my perspective. xD I guess I'll just worry about it if I ever make something and end up with a gap in the wrong direction.
DeDraconis - Yes, you would always drill the hole in the tenon *closer to the shoulder* than the mark you made. This will pull the tenon in tight.
I remember the original video, saved me buying big clamps on many big doors etc.
A young James.
Actually for smaller two medium size dowels a pencil sharpener works great the medium ones I take the big cover off
👍
If possible have international viewers in mind - this one was a bit too fast, illustrate more and a bit longer, please. I like what you do :)
Here's a comment for you. I just got your book on Amazon.
Hope you're nowhere near that central Michigan flooding I'm reading about.
I'm right in the middle of it. But my house and shop are fine. :)
@@StumpyNubs Glad to hear that. Stay safe.
Not trying to be rude, but I prefer your speaking style in this video than your newer ones. You come of as more natural. Your production value is better in the newer videos for sure.
People these days don't want to listen to wasted words. They want you to get to the point immediately and use as few words to say it as possible.
@@StumpyNubs I get that and that's not really what I was commenting on, it was more your cadence, body language, and voice modulation.
I still really like your videos and it's your channel.
I agree. many times I've unsubscribed from more verbose youtubers. due to their love of talking, for the sake of listening to themself.
I always hated the sound a brace and wood bit made going through the wood. Sounded like the wood was being ripped apart.
Try using a sharpened auger bit.