How To: Removing Dust Particles From Your Clearcoat
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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Almost impossible to avoid dust, but this is a great way to remove it...thanks for sharing...
Great tip when "WET SANDING"... {ADD A FEW DROPS OF LIQUID DISHWASHING SOAP} in with your H20 in a bowl (or your water bottle as U used in video)...Makes that much smoother to Sand.... LEBIII
Great tips. I have these grits but I have never used them. I will definitely have to try them.
Love the music keep up the great work
oh man, i need to get some of those sticks. thanks for sharing
Very Very helpfull, love this channel man
Who disliked this? Justify it for me buddy, pleeeaaase. UA-cam is weirding me out... big-style.
I call them phone jockeys :)
You should upload a video of your collection
Can you put a couple of coats of 2K clear on, then buff it out, then add your decals, then add a couple more coats of clear?
Never tried it
where to get these sanding sticks?
Could you do a video for painting the details in a grill?
Hmm...i ordered the color gravity and it just takes the paint off and gets sticky. . . i used alclad ii black base and tried to get some dust out before I apply chrome. Everything just melts the paint. Am i missing something?
i only have from 1500 -3000 grit, will it be sufficient or should i buy higher grit?
Get higher grits
Do you need to put clear coat before polish?
Yes. The clearcoat is what you polish
Hi! would you recommend to re-clear the part again rather than sanding & polishing it? would that be a faster method? thank you!
You could do that. But there is risk of more dust, more dry time and a thicker layer of clear
Nice tool.
Does anybody know where I can get the sanding sticks from I'm in the UK
Can i still topcoat this after doing all these steps? I need topcoat so i can seal decals when i apply some. Thanks
Hello! Thank you for the helpful tutorials! I ran into a problem unfortunately. Please bear with me, I'm a beginner and I ran into a problem recently with my build. It's a Lotus Europa 1/24 from Tamiya and the main shell is white. After the first base coat, I had some tiny paint holes and some bumps almost as if the paint bubbled in parts of the car, noticeably near a fender and under the rear bumper, probably because of paint build up. I believe that was orange peel?
This is the part where I think I began to get overcomplicated and ahead of myself. I tried sanding down and filling the holes with Tamiya basic putty which is grey. I waited a day for the putty to settle then sanded it so was smooth and in the shape of the shell, holes were filled out. Then, I tried spraying another (2nd) basecoat of the pearl white, and to my dismay, I found out that the pearl white spray (TS-45) I was using was very translucent, and showed the grey putty areas. So, I sanded the car again trying to get rid of as many grey areas as possible. At this stage I have ran out of spray (100ml can), and too eager to finish the shell. It was probably a rookie mistake, but then I tried hand painting the more difficult grey areas with flat-white enamel from Tamiya because I couldn't wait to buy another can of the pearl white.
Now I've bought 2nd can 100ml can of pearl white and sprayed the other parts (bumper, back engine cover, spoiler) and then on the main shell yet another basecoat (3rd). There is still some orange peel from my amateur spraying, one or two grey putty areas (3-5mm in size) you can see when it is well lit, as well as some scribing scratches. You can also see slightly raised patches where I've used some enamel in my amateur attempt to cover up the grey putty areas.
Now I've used two cans of Tamiya pearl white spray, and still have a pretty mediocre shell. Do I buy third can of the pearl white and spray to cover up the grey regions and fill scribing mistakes? Or should I just clear coat it now, polish, and just build the car.
In my opinion, stop!
don't spray more color on this one. And the clear is not going to fix anything. It will just make it glossy.
Either:
1, take your loss and move on, finish it as is and use this as a learning curve.
2, remove all the paint and start from scratch.
The problem your running in to with the bubbles is because the paint is applied to thick.
When painting. Start with the bodywork. Then apply a primer. On top of the primer you spray the color if all imperfections are gone.
If the imperfections still show through the primer. Fix them first, spray more primer.
If it all good. then move on to color.
When spraying pearl white, its best practise to spray a base white first, then the pearl. as you said its very transparent.
Thank you for taking the time to help me out you're an absolute lifesaver. I watched another tutorial and read a bit on the web that the primer isn't always necessary? Just sand down mould lines and sand all over with around 2000 grit so the base coat paint can bite? I might just go the extra mile and use primer anyways.
In saying that, I'll just make do with what I have and just finish it off! Thank you for the advice and tips. Definitely a lesson learned for me.
Thanks again. I'll keep going through your channel for more knowledge and insight.
@@leighton_lam its sayd that its not always necessary. Yes. However i don’t agree with this. As the primer “bites” in to the plastic. And fills some imperfections. It creates an even base layer for the color to go on.
hi! I have a question for painting. What is the difference if i use gloss black paint and not do a black basecoat and then apply some 2k clearcoat? Is the outcome not the same?
Theoreticaly the outcome would be the same, however in reality: 2k gives more shine and way more strength/durability
ok i see! Then i have to go with the 2k version. Im so affraid to mess up my Knight rider aoshima modell. Is there a way i can take down the paint? Some stuff to rub of with? Or only sanding?
What is the purpose of rubing or sanding?
i mean if i srew up the painjob! Then i need to redo the painting again. So i need to sandpaper the whole body of the car right?
Or polish it
Is it best to use 2000 sandpaper to remove the black dust on clear coated yellow surface? The sanding sponge 2000 and 3000 is kinda of rough causes scratches.
Sandpaper 2000 is just as rough as a sanding sponge 2000
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Sorry not rough I mean a little bit scratchy by causing scratch surface.
have you try to wire your engines? if yes, can you pls show us how you do it...?
Marcos Fernandez Nanita I recently got into wiring engine. For spark plug wires I’ve drilled super small holes in the sides of the valve covers. By the time the engine is in place you really have to look hard to be able to see the drilled holes. If there is a situation where you can see the holes maybe just use plug boots to slip in the holes and then put the wires through the boots.
I've got some dust in my first color coat. Should I do these same steps before adding a clear coat?
If it is in the color coat, you would need to sand and repaint
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Will do! Thank you for the prompt reply. Great channel with lots of useful info... Thanks!
How many clear coats had you applied when you noticed the dust?
No idea
How long after you clearcoated should you wait to start this process?
Depends on the clear you use and the drying time it has
i have some runs in my clear coat, would I use this same method to get rid of them?
Marco Agostino yes
Where can I get the polishing compound from Gravity Colors?
+Eduardo ‘124_Ortizmodels’ Ortiz www.gravitycolors.com
Where can I find them sanding sticks? Happy building
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+The Scalemodeling Channel could you build some pre 1970 American cars
Can someone tell me if I need to wetsand the entire piece? In this case he did the whole roof but can I just wetsand the spot that has the dirt nib and Polish it back to gloss or am I stuck doing the whole thing? My piece has glossy black paint but no clear coat.
that is the point of this video to do only the spot you need to. The area is so small that is got to the bigger part of the roof pretty fast by just the size of my fingers and the side to side movement for polishing/sanding.
The Scalemodeling Channel Ok.. I just looked at the roof sort of as one piece and since u did the whole thing I wasn't sure u could do one smaller area. I'll give it a shot
How can you remove this from just paint not clearcoat? Same process
You cant. You will need to sand it out, and repaint it.
How do you get rid of orange peel before you put the clear coat on.?
You can’t
Make sure the primer is super smooth. That way the color will be smoother aswell.
Can’t you do color sanding on that and then re shoot?
Proper primer application helps too.
Great tip :) What a piss off to have those sink marks on the roof :( I hate it when that happens :(:(
You mean those big dents in the roof?
They are supposed to be there. its the cars design.
The Scalemodeling Channel
Oh, OK. No foul intended :)
:P
Il just put this here anyone who falls for the overbranded meguirs stuff really hasnt given any other polish a chance
Lark Lamas would you mind also leaving behind the brand you think is better? And why?
:p
Well megiuars is just over branded and expensive, people buy the brand because of its publicity and sponsors on cars etc. Unsure if you can get the same stuff in the states Farecla G3 ultra is brilliant you can also get the fine stuff which is for the finer scratches your polishing cloth may give. In the Uk most paint shops use this stuff and is brilliant the finishes are far better than meguirs.
On another note would love to see you build a classic again.
Thanks for the clarification!
I’ve recently gotten the tamiya 3 step compound. Works better than anything else I’ve used. The scratch x is also pretty good. I just like the fact the tamiya compound has the 3 steps.