www.amazon.com/... www.amazon.com/... Hopefully this video will give some people some good insight on the difference bewteen good and "bad" or poor quality knives...
420 is softer than the 440 series stainless steels, BUT a cheap knife using 440C with a crappy heat treat will be worse off than a good 420 heat treated properly such as a Buck model, they do a great job with their steel, so it all depends on who its commign from, but gnerally 440 is better than 420...
+Howard azmat Yeah those simple knives have very little that could break or fail on you. Plus they look quite good. Still, I am a sucker for high-grade materials and sleeker designs. Tacticool knives with too many features are shit though, I want it to cut and nothing more. Don't even like half-serrations.
Its good advise for most but when I buy knives and I dont lie them I just trade for other knives, so its a non issue for me, I love saving the money by buying them online, however the best palce to get them is usually at knife and or knife and gun shows where the prices are reasonable and you can bargain as well as actually hold the knife before you purchase them...
Good knives example: M9 Bayonet Doppler, Karambit Fade, Huntsman Crimson web factory new Bad knives example: Gut Knife Safari Mesh, Falchion Knife Boreal forest, Flip knife Crimson web Battle scarred
Thanks! Yeah I have heard that ALOT in other countries not only is it hard to find certain knives but you do have to pay alot more for them, which stinks...but once you get them its just that much more exciting...
A couple months back, I bought a $25 Duratech folding knife. It's cheap, but by all the criteria in this video, it would be classified as a good knife. - Reliably locks when opened - Passes spine-whack/force close test - Very little blade play - Blade coating holds up pretty well - Nice solid anodised aluminium casing (Stainless liner locking) - V-ground edge - Contains with magnesium alloy firestarter & LED torch w/rare-earth magnet (if that's what you're into) Now for the drawbacks - Anodised coating on the handle shows the wear - Blade centreing isn't very good. - Belt cutter in the handle catches on pockets/keys, etc. so if I ever find myself needing to use it, it will probably be blunt.
Yesterday I saw that red/pink knife at a flea market. The price was 7.00$ but the guy said all knives were half off. Would it have been worth it if I bought it for 3.00$?
no its not worth it, to have a blade means at least to have something that its going to work for you, having a knife that will wiggle its blade around will not be worth to carry even if you got it FOR FREE!!!!!!! so get something that will at least be good on construction, you dont need the best steel on a knife for edc, for example i have a knife for 8 dollars, made from browning, very nice construction very solid and ive fucked the living shit out of it and it wont flinch its just that strong, the two disadvantages are that the steel is normal chinese steel and looses and edge fast and the knife is too fat&heavy and it will get in your way, it may bring your pants down and its uncomfortable, the one edc knife that im stuck with now and im happy is the boker magnum investigator, with the priice of 69BGN (or 30$) it was expensive for me but its very damn awesome, totally worth it g10 scales, very hard use knife with amazing construction, reverse tanto blade, liner lock + leniord hole and lastly very light knife, extremely comfortable to carry, medium sized - not too big and not too small, just perfect.
Well its about perfference, I don't EDC mine because of the tight pocket clip and somewhat sharp quillion or guards, but you might want to look into Cold Steels Voyager series (if you still want to stay with cold steel) which woudl be a much better EDC for general purpose cutting tasks, they make the same knife in a few different sizes all within the same price range as the Ti-Lite, if you still go with the Ti-Lite, keep in mind that the Zytel one will be heavier...
gsstrings i agree that a 700 $ knife is way to expensive but just saying"i rather buy a gun" it's bust not the same thing a knife is a cittibg tool i doubt a gun would work well for opening boxes.
it really depends what your lookign for, certain maetrials cant be had under a certain price tag, for example S30V, the cheapest you cna find the steel is in a spyderco native, $50 and up, maybe $450 at walmart, anyway it depends on the materials, some people wont spend more than $100 on a knife, that doesnt mean its overpriced, Kabar makes good knives but they still dont use certain materials peopel want...
Great vid, but you forgot to mention the real reason why you want a knife with a lock in open position. Like spyderco folding knife. A buddy of mine cut off 3 fingers in a knife fight because the knife folded in a stabbing situasion. That's why you really need it to properly lock open. All my folding knives are spyderco for that reason.
Because he was attacked and used what he had in his pocket at the time. In Norway it`s strictly illegal to wear a knife. Hidden or not. If Police gets you, they take away your drivers lisence
yes. and even any sharp object like a screwdriver or anything that can be used as a weapon. And even more strange is if a burglar enters your house and starts to beat you up. You are not allowed to fight back. If you harm the poor intruder you will go to court and get punished hard. If you call the police as you should in those cases they will dismiss you because traffic control is more important. Strange huh?
chisel ground blades alow a thinner edge therefore sharper, they make them for defense not meant for utility their utility knives have a traditional Vgrind
I'm glad you mention opinion. Seems that everyone has one. I agree that a knife is worth what you have personally invested in it and get out of it. Some folk didn't get what I was saying in my knife videos, you said it again for me. Thanks
A uncle of a friend of mine is a famous chef in Korea. The friend was telling me that one of the knife his uncle use hails from Japan. Interesting part of this is that he told me the maker of this knife travels to Korea (from Japan)every year to do maintance work on the knives he made (he will not tolerate anyone else to do so).
I am very familiar with cold steels products I foudnj over the years that they are hit and miss, some of their stuff is a waste of money in my opinion, but many items they make are good bargains and good quality products!
I woudl recomend a larger fixed blade, maybe a RC-6, which is a bigger version of the RC-3 I have a video on, or perhaps a SOG fixed blade...there are hundreds of nicer fixed blades under the $100 price tag, benchmade offers a bunch too...Like the Rant is a great smaller fixed blade @ the $50 price range...If its mainly for chopping get a small axe or machete, but if its mainly for cuttign get a biger fixed blade...
one thing that people must understand for every day carry knife is that you DONT WANT SERRATIONS ON YOUR KNIFE!! for everyday uses serrations are pain in the ass and will slow you down 100% of the time, serrations are made for hunter's knives so they could cut open some animal's belly easier, for everyday use it will be completely useless and shit, not to mention that its very hard to sharpen it, extremely hard!
The best knife I ever bought was the Cold Steel Voyager Katana which I got at Ft.Lewis Washington PX in 2002 before I deployed to Iraq twice.I used it to cut open matresses,pry doors,punch steel cans,cut manila rope,clean weapons,cut seat bealts, and as a screw driver.I sharpened it only maybee a dozen times since I owned it to this day and still did not thin out the blade.Use a diamond sharpener from DMT,its completely awesome for all your blades.
well the most common problem is the screws fallign out and the blade seperates from the handles which is most dangerous, but I have never heard of or expereinces even the cheapest of blade actually snapping...its the contrustion that falls apart on you most of the time...the bending of the ahndles on the video is just to show the poor quaoity, not that your ahndles will bed with normal use...
I have used a Tac-Force "Speedster Model" I love. I also bought a cheap assisted open knife off ebay I like. If you open it up lube it and add lock-tight to the screws it will work really well. The blade steel is just cheap. but it works great after you sharpen it which has to happen quite often.
@awesomeroflpwnage every steel if properly made has its benafits and downsides, AUS8 is a great commoners steel since it is easy to sharpen and maintain S30V is a great steel but many find it harder to sharpen...and it will tend to chip under extreme stress unlike AUS8 which will tend to roll...soft isnt always bad, also benhcmade when they has their red class used steels like 8cr9mov...not that different than aus* and they also used N690 on their monochrome whioch I liked a lot...also soft
Ok well both the sytel and aluminum versins will suit you fine, its about perfference, but I alwas felt the 6" version is justa bit too big for easy pocket carry, but again, some love it some don't so its up to you whether to get the 4" or 6"...
haha yeah there is always a trade off, they are usually crap, but in the end it wil still do some work for minimal cost...Its about priority...and what people look for in certain tools...but in my opinion it no different than any other tool, woudl someone buy a dollar store hammer than only hammers sometimes, lol...Know what I mean...
thats what alot of peopel do and they end up with a good performaing uncomfortable knife...if you can sharopen your own blades the steel wont matter too much as long as its decent...its about priorities, I use my knives often at work so confort is important to me, other peopel have issues with weight they cant stand really heavy knives or really light ones, some only go for good blade steel...it all depends...
Gem of the Orient. Designed for a Japanese customer, the knife’s jade and gold filigree handle is encrusted with 153 emeralds (10 carats) and nine diamonds (5 carats). In all, the knife was made with 28 ounces of gold. Supposedly, it took Warenski 10 years to make.
@IndianaWren I have a set of kitchen knives (I'm a chef) that are 600 dollars a knife. A 6" and 8" chef knife, santoku, carving knife, 3 paring knives, cleaver, bread knife, salmon knife, etc etc. The two chef's knives are 600 dollars each, and the rest are around 300-400 dollars each (except paring knives, they're 100 dollars each). They are custom made (handles are molded to my hand, among other aspects) and they are my work tools. Knives are something you should cheap out on.
ohhh, no, both of the knives to the left (cold steel ti-lite and CRKT mount whitney) are manula knives no springs...just smooth openign knives that are well oiled...
Having a non locking blade is fine as long as you know and expect it not to lock. If you think it should lock and it doesn't, then it's dangerous. Most swiss army knife style knives don't lock, but you aren't expecting them to.
Thank you for review. Actually, I really like my super-bargain FROST Little Nomad folding frame lock knife. I bought 5 for $15. Size and shape is similar to Kershaw Scallion. Frost steel is quite good and holds an edge well. Plus, it's a cinch to re-sharpen. I dropped it on concrete and one of the hardwood handle slabs popped off. It was simple to fasten it back into place with a couple dabs of JB Weld epoxy. In summary, some inexpensive knives are KEEPERS! Paul
I agree with the fact that the Mt. Whitney is a good knife. I have a Mt. Rainier and have owned it for a couple of years and it hasn't rusted, dulled, broken, or closed randomly. It has made many hotdog/smore sticks, has been dropped, (rarely) and has never really gone wrong. Also, one cool thing is that it has a second lock, so that the frame lock cannot be moved when opened.
i dont have the money for high price knives but i buy decent ones and i think it makes me appriciate them more. i take care of them like sharpen them and oil parts that get squeaky. you dont need to spend upwards of 30 bucks for a quality knife. my favortie knife is a gerber one i bought on clearence at wal mart for 17 dollars about 2 years ago and it still holds strong.
you said most, why not all? lol, see what I mean, trust me Im not dissing cold steel I own and love many of their products, Im just saying they ahve made items I did not think were worth the money considerign what else there is out there to compare it to...but cold steel to me IS a good knife company in general for sure...
I would like to thank you *if you see this* for the very informative advice and tips you made in this and your other videos As a newer knife collector I have been only testing and purchasing cheaper knives French, American, Switch Blade, and Butterly. This answered a lot of things I wasn't sure about as far as "blade play" is concerned and the basic quality of a knife. The nationality or make in general also seems to be a defining factor as far as rare antique and style is concerned.
well I assume you dotn have any loctite so I wodul suggest using a drop of nail polish, but it on the screw threads then put the screw back in and let it dry overnight...that will keep the screw from moving much...
i used to have that "lbad" knife with the red scales, if you are basing it off of price it is but that was one of the most durable knives i have owned. i could cut branches off tree, pry things open, ect. and it couldnt break. i could go on for the longest time about the things i have put that knfe though. the liner was tight and the blade was much more tight than yours seems though. the only reason i dont have it anymore because someone took it apart and lost all of the screws.
I would like to mention that if you're left handed you'll probably never buy a frame or liner lock intentionally, since you have a far higher chance of the blade suddenly coming unlocked, especially if you're using it for whittling and choking up on the spine of the blade a bit for more control. I have more knife related scars on my hands from frame and liner lock knives suddenly closing on me because I'm putting pressure on the spine of the blade in line with the material I'm cutting while holding the knife in my left hand.
Owned a CRKT knife once but unfortunately I lost it! But still own a Gerber Gator serrater. I've had it for years and have used it for a lot of different jobs. Still just as strong as the day I bought it! One of the best I have ever owned!
japanese sword come in many different types of grinds not just convex. their gardening machetes are also chisel ground as well so i wouldn't go so far as to say they aren't for more than delicate chores. also draw knives and cold chisels are chisel ground and are for hard use as well.
Hey Cutlerylover, I have a Sherfield Pocket knife and bought it for about $10.00 and it locks up real easy, the liner lock is quite thick, there is very very little to no play when it is locked, and the blade is centered when closed.
crkt makes osm eof the best "cheap" knives out there if you cant afford expensive high quaolity knives your best bet is with a CRKT or low end kershaw, just my opinion, but there are other great ones as well like BYRD and some buck models
6:40 using some thread seal tape wrapped on the pivot screw should take care of that (or Locktite) Even more expensive knives can have that problem. One of my benchmade knives had some bladeplay when I got it (a Griptilian) and I tightened the pivot screw and bladeplay was gone but the blade was stiff and not smooth anymore when open/close, so I opened and closed it alot and noticed that the pivot loosened. Applied some tape and have not needed to readjust the pivot and that is over a year ago.
@shooter7424 nope... they flick open by the use of a detent on the liner lock... as you put pressure on the thumb stud the detent will pop out of the little hole in the blade and flick the blade open quick... the detent also helps keep the blade in the handle making it safer...
One that I design myself that everyone wants to buy, lol...One day in the future when I become a knife maker and peope, are all talkign about the new Jeff Smith folder...thats my dream knife...
Lock can be fixed in 5 minutes by slightly filing the blade or lock. Play can be fixed by tightening screw and perhaps putting some loctite on it. The washers and blade metal are all that matters. Mainly just blade metal.
I agree with the statement regarding certain persons perspective. But they may have no idea what their knives are made of. Which in some instances especially fixed blades you go to chop something and a chunk of steel goes flying through the air. But as far as folders go as long as they keep their fingers away from where the blade folds it is personal preference. Yet if not you can be seriously cut by some unknown material with who knows what kind of coating. Not necessarily a black wash as they have been doing tests they are finding silicone on many handles. So knowing what your knife is made of is important.
It all really depends on what you're needing to do with your knife. I've got a ZT 0350 with s30v steel that will cut anything and hold an edge forever, but is actually duller than a knife a third of the cost made of aus 6m high carbon steel. I also have a Smith&Wesson Extreme Opps that matches it but doesn'hold it as long. I got that for $16.
I hear ya...yeah I am just tryign to get people interested in knives, but not as just cool weapons that are scary, lol...which most kids see them as...
My favorite knife i ever bought was for $10 at a flea market years ago, its still in great shape, and i still find it to be my EDC of choice above even my cold steel blades.
I have always loved my BUCK 110 since my dad gave it to me for my 11th birthday. But I always carry a cheap, 10-20 dollar, flea market knife for those less than knife friendly tasks.(like prying out a staple or cutting those pesky zip ties) Sometimes its good to have a poor quality knives to use as an extreme beater.
that design is popular....its actrually a rip off of a custom klnife, like most cheapos knives they copy good designs without creators permission of course...
fyi, i have some $9-12 chiineee knives that are "good", the Gerber I am holding made in Portland OR is a soft stainless that pits, will not hold or gain an edge, and the lock slips easily with a so-so push of the hand [I was Amazed!!! Bought it at REI]. If you wait for a "good" knife to gain maturity [be on the market long enuf] you can get a great knife for $20-$30 on Amazon. I recently got a Ken Onion for under $30 that once retailed over $90.
As someone who's carried 30 dollars knives on a camping trip with guys using 300 dollar knives, I can tell you with absolute certainty that cost is NOT automatically an indicator of quality or utility. It has more to do with style and the economic situation. Same reason Glock can make quality guns at a low price. Kershaw and Spyderco both make a line of reasonably priced folders that are well built, sturdy, and hold a good edge. Some are even truly rustproof if they use the right steel like H1.
"good" is an opiniononated statement, but when you start using $500 kniuves the $7 ones just dont cut the mustard anymore, lol but to many all they know is $7 knives so they think some are good...like I said if it works for you thats always good...
I just started making my own knives I love collecting knives and other tools but I just could not ever find the right one to use so I get my old tools that either broke or no need to use them and I just make one that fits what I’m gonna do with it great hobby too
I have a black spyderco,'Native3',That has,As you taught me,A chisel-ground & it definately wasn't cheap,But i use it All the time,It's half serated & sharp,Still!I know I'll have to get around to sharpening the blade,Some day,But i love it. I definately agree with you,About it depending on the person & the knife.For example,I have an All black Pacific pocket knife,Which was quite inexpensive,But still works like a charm.I have a pritty good collection,But can't get my hands on a Balisong!
I guess it depends on personal opinion and the usage. I bought a 15 dollar Winchester folder at Walmart in Sept. 2010 before a trip up to Michigan's UP (which turned out to be the most awesome/least awesome trip EVER) I've had it ever since stuck in a pack, or in my pocket, or thrown on the floor...whatever. It's a great knife. Keeps a great edge...does ALL THE THINGS I need it to. I've not spent $400 on all the knives I've ever owned. I harvest Chaga...that's what my knives are used for.
True, but they are much harder to care/conceal (not to say it cant be done) but there are PLENTY of great folders out there that way less and do just as good a job unless your using it extremely hard....
Good topic, CL. Here's some data points for version 2: 1) Price not a good indicator of quality. (Ontario Rat-1 for instance) And don't slap me, but while Emersons are costly, they are chisel-ground (Ugh. HATE that) and many people disassemble and rebuild before use due to issues. 2) ADVANTAGES of lower-end knives: Cheaper steels can be "tougher": 420J can flex a little and almost impervious to rust, where D2 can shatter, and will rust. New Vid: Favorite P.O.S. for E.D.C.!
I use the forums where other colectors and users go to talk...they ahve trade sections...knifeforums, bladeforums, candlepowerforums, edcforums, ect...
The less expensive knives are great for experimenting with, changing scales, file work or learning how to sharpen without messing up a good blade. Everyone should own a few.
Hey, been a big fan of yours for years now. It was funny to see my (essentially) EDC knife on your crappy side. I'm not taking offense to it, I picked it up real cheap up on NY when I was visiting a flea market. Its the black one. Mine says its a G-Tech, same frame lock design, I've had it for about 2 years now and the black finish is still there. Worn only in places where its been chipped by dropping it. My knife has no play and locks each time. I like it a lot, but I do like the tips you gave.
A good knife is one that serves the purpose for which it is intended and is structurally sound and without defect. That being said, buy whatever you like.
My favorite carry knife is the 6 " Ti lite It opens several ways is fast sharp and fairly long. It fits in my hand well looks bad ass and You can use it as a striking weapon closed.
1:45 ; then there are those of us who buy spendy knives occasionally, but also cheapos, and old flea market things, but also a custom or two. I went to walmart (I know, I'm sorry), and bought a knife for 4 bucks. It looked decent. It was shaving sharp. And the lock quality is wunderbar. I was shocked. Nice. Now my edc. I bought a knife for 40 bucks on impulsse once. It sucked. Couldn't sharpen it, and the tip broke off. Bought a 50 dollar one, works like a charm. Good fighting knife too.
I have a mini Griptilian (I got it on sale, $80) and a serrated Byrd hawkbill ($20) and of course the benchmade has better steel but they're both awesome.
Tries the spine wack test....
Shattered my coffee table
Conyers IV lmao rekt
420 is softer than the 440 series stainless steels, BUT a cheap knife using 440C with a crappy heat treat will be worse off than a good 420 heat treated properly such as a Buck model, they do a great job with their steel, so it all depends on who its commign from, but gnerally 440 is better than 420...
todays drinking game ....take 1 shot for each time he says you know
Dies
OH NO
metal oil is prefered since it normall alos protects the metal from rust, but I believe vegitable oil woudl work as well...
In my opinion, some of the older knives are best, ie---Puma, Early Buck knives, Kinfolk etc etc.
+Howard azmat Yeah those simple knives have very little that could break or fail on you. Plus they look quite good. Still, I am a sucker for high-grade materials and sleeker designs.
Tacticool knives with too many features are shit though, I want it to cut and nothing more. Don't even like half-serrations.
+Martin Smith patchy the pirate? in a seriousness I am getting tired of all knives being black.
Buck brand knives were very classy many decades ago.
In your opinion what's a good video camera? Because the one you use looks like it came from a potato farm
before your a jerk on the internet maybe you should check in on the video. this came out 4 and a half years ago when he was starting youtube.
Walker Moncel
6 and a half years. I know, it was just a joke. I apologize if you took it defensively.
Shikamoo P.K. hey dude, don't stress, but I gotta say I laughed as soon as I read it, nice throw away comment lol
Haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate
Shikamoo P.K. AKA 2008
My opinion I hate fold knives .but I love full tang knives
Same. I mean I own some good folders, but most of my collection is full tang fixed blades.
You have giant pockets?
Its good advise for most but when I buy knives and I dont lie them I just trade for other knives, so its a non issue for me, I love saving the money by buying them online, however the best palce to get them is usually at knife and or knife and gun shows where the prices are reasonable and you can bargain as well as actually hold the knife before you purchase them...
Good knives example: M9 Bayonet Doppler, Karambit Fade, Huntsman Crimson web factory new
Bad knives example: Gut Knife Safari Mesh, Falchion Knife Boreal forest, Flip knife Crimson web Battle scarred
Shockwave mk lol
+Abood Snipers the gut knife sapphire is good
:L
Abood Snipars real life dude not csgo XD but yo u are right
Thanks! Yeah I have heard that ALOT in other countries not only is it hard to find certain knives but you do have to pay alot more for them, which stinks...but once you get them its just that much more exciting...
I use voyager xl on my every day carry cold steel makes the best knifes for under 100
A couple months back, I bought a $25 Duratech folding knife. It's cheap, but by all the criteria in this video, it would be classified as a good knife.
- Reliably locks when opened
- Passes spine-whack/force close test
- Very little blade play
- Blade coating holds up pretty well
- Nice solid anodised aluminium casing (Stainless liner locking)
- V-ground edge
- Contains with magnesium alloy firestarter & LED torch w/rare-earth magnet (if that's what you're into)
Now for the drawbacks
- Anodised coating on the handle shows the wear
- Blade centreing isn't very good.
- Belt cutter in the handle catches on pockets/keys, etc. so if I ever find myself needing to use it, it will probably be blunt.
Yesterday I saw that red/pink knife at a flea market. The price was 7.00$ but the guy said all knives were half off. Would it have been worth it if I bought it for 3.00$?
yes. 3.50
no its not worth it, to have a blade means at least to have something that its going to work for you, having a knife that will wiggle its blade around will not be worth to carry even if you got it FOR FREE!!!!!!! so get something that will at least be good on construction, you dont need the best steel on a knife for edc, for example i have a knife for 8 dollars, made from browning, very nice construction very solid and ive fucked the living shit out of it and it wont flinch its just that strong, the two disadvantages are that the steel is normal chinese steel and looses and edge fast and the knife is too fat&heavy and it will get in your way, it may bring your pants down and its uncomfortable, the one edc knife that im stuck with now and im happy is the boker magnum investigator, with the priice of 69BGN (or 30$) it was expensive for me but its very damn awesome, totally worth it g10 scales, very hard use knife with amazing construction, reverse tanto blade, liner lock + leniord hole and lastly very light knife, extremely comfortable to carry, medium sized - not too big and not too small, just perfect.
Random Dude Thank you for the speech, I appreciate your opinion. I will take it into consideration on every knife I buy.
Lord Scrappington no probs man im glad i helped :))
Well its about perfference, I don't EDC mine because of the tight pocket clip and somewhat sharp quillion or guards, but you might want to look into Cold Steels Voyager series (if you still want to stay with cold steel) which woudl be a much better EDC for general purpose cutting tasks, they make the same knife in a few different sizes all within the same price range as the Ti-Lite, if you still go with the Ti-Lite, keep in mind that the Zytel one will be heavier...
At 700 bucks I'd probably just buy something from Arms and Armor.
runningsandwich At 700 bucks screw a knife I'm buying a gun!!!
gsstrings i agree that a 700 $ knife is way to expensive but just saying"i rather buy a gun" it's bust not the same thing a knife is a cittibg tool i doubt a gun would work well for opening boxes.
Karvast guns work great for opening boxes... Not so great for what's inside though.
Karvast just buy a fukin leatherman
it really depends what your lookign for, certain maetrials cant be had under a certain price tag, for example S30V, the cheapest you cna find the steel is in a spyderco native, $50 and up, maybe $450 at walmart, anyway it depends on the materials, some people wont spend more than $100 on a knife, that doesnt mean its overpriced, Kabar makes good knives but they still dont use certain materials peopel want...
Great vid, but you forgot to mention the real reason why you want a knife with a lock in open position. Like spyderco folding knife. A buddy of mine cut off 3 fingers in a knife fight because the knife folded in a stabbing situasion. That's why you really need it to properly lock open. All my folding knives are spyderco for that reason.
Why was your friend stabbing someone with a non-locking folding knife?
Because he was attacked and used what he had in his pocket at the time. In Norway it`s strictly illegal to wear a knife. Hidden or not. If Police gets you, they take away your drivers lisence
Janeriks channel
Any knife?
yes. and even any sharp object like a screwdriver or anything that can be used as a weapon. And even more strange is if a burglar enters your house and starts to beat you up. You are not allowed to fight back. If you harm the poor intruder you will go to court and get punished hard. If you call the police as you should in those cases they will dismiss you because traffic control is more important. Strange huh?
Luckily Jeff and I live in PA and there is a law called the castle doctrine
no, both are regular manula folders, they are just oiled well and smooth, lol so I cna flick them out nice and fast with little effort...
chisel ground blades alow a thinner edge therefore sharper, they make them for defense not meant for utility their utility knives have a traditional Vgrind
I'm glad you mention opinion. Seems that everyone has one. I agree that a knife is worth what you have personally invested in it and get out of it.
Some folk didn't get what I was saying in my knife videos, you said it again for me.
Thanks
I think they are a great value, the best fixed blades available for the price without a doubt, I have a video or 2 about them as well...
A uncle of a friend of mine is a famous chef in Korea. The friend was telling me that one of the knife his uncle use hails from Japan. Interesting part of this is that he told me the maker of this knife travels to Korea (from Japan)every year to do maintance work on the knives he made (he will not tolerate anyone else to do so).
I am very familiar with cold steels products I foudnj over the years that they are hit and miss, some of their stuff is a waste of money in my opinion, but many items they make are good bargains and good quality products!
I woudl recomend a larger fixed blade, maybe a RC-6, which is a bigger version of the RC-3 I have a video on, or perhaps a SOG fixed blade...there are hundreds of nicer fixed blades under the $100 price tag, benchmade offers a bunch too...Like the Rant is a great smaller fixed blade @ the $50 price range...If its mainly for chopping get a small axe or machete, but if its mainly for cuttign get a biger fixed blade...
one thing that people must understand for every day carry knife is that you DONT WANT SERRATIONS ON YOUR KNIFE!! for everyday uses serrations are pain in the ass and will slow you down 100% of the time, serrations are made for hunter's knives so they could cut open some animal's belly easier, for everyday use it will be completely useless and shit, not to mention that its very hard to sharpen it, extremely hard!
I limke too many different knives to narrow it down to oen brand but both spyderco and Benchmade make great knives...
The best knife I ever bought was the Cold Steel Voyager Katana which I got at Ft.Lewis Washington PX in 2002 before I deployed to Iraq twice.I used it to cut open matresses,pry doors,punch steel cans,cut manila rope,clean weapons,cut seat bealts, and as a screw driver.I sharpened it only maybee a dozen times since I owned it to this day and still did not thin out the blade.Use a diamond sharpener from DMT,its completely awesome for all your blades.
Thats true, high value knives are the exception but overall you get what you pay for...
yup, very true..."to each his own" is a good quote to use...
thats an exception, exceptiosn cna be made but if you look at the whole picture more expensive knives offer alot more...
well the most common problem is the screws fallign out and the blade seperates from the handles which is most dangerous, but I have never heard of or expereinces even the cheapest of blade actually snapping...its the contrustion that falls apart on you most of the time...the bending of the ahndles on the video is just to show the poor quaoity, not that your ahndles will bed with normal use...
I have used a Tac-Force "Speedster Model" I love. I also bought a cheap assisted open knife off ebay I like. If you open it up lube it and add lock-tight to the screws it will work really well. The blade steel is just cheap. but it works great after you sharpen it which has to happen quite often.
yup, digiwelly is right, completely manula and legal as logn as the blade length is legal in your state...
@awesomeroflpwnage every steel if properly made has its benafits and downsides, AUS8 is a great commoners steel since it is easy to sharpen and maintain S30V is a great steel but many find it harder to sharpen...and it will tend to chip under extreme stress unlike AUS8 which will tend to roll...soft isnt always bad, also benhcmade when they has their red class used steels like 8cr9mov...not that different than aus* and they also used N690 on their monochrome whioch I liked a lot...also soft
Ok well both the sytel and aluminum versins will suit you fine, its about perfference, but I alwas felt the 6" version is justa bit too big for easy pocket carry, but again, some love it some don't so its up to you whether to get the 4" or 6"...
haha yeah there is always a trade off, they are usually crap, but in the end it wil still do some work for minimal cost...Its about priority...and what people look for in certain tools...but in my opinion it no different than any other tool, woudl someone buy a dollar store hammer than only hammers sometimes, lol...Know what I mean...
its a mnaul knife, but yes the stiletto design from cold steel, called the ti-lite
thats what alot of peopel do and they end up with a good performaing uncomfortable knife...if you can sharopen your own blades the steel wont matter too much as long as its decent...its about priorities, I use my knives often at work so confort is important to me, other peopel have issues with weight they cant stand really heavy knives or really light ones, some only go for good blade steel...it all depends...
Gem of the Orient. Designed for a Japanese customer, the knife’s jade and gold filigree handle is encrusted with 153 emeralds (10 carats) and nine diamonds (5 carats). In all, the knife was made with 28 ounces of gold. Supposedly, it took Warenski 10 years to make.
@IndianaWren I have a set of kitchen knives (I'm a chef) that are 600 dollars a knife. A 6" and 8" chef knife, santoku, carving knife, 3 paring knives, cleaver, bread knife, salmon knife, etc etc. The two chef's knives are 600 dollars each, and the rest are around 300-400 dollars each (except paring knives, they're 100 dollars each). They are custom made (handles are molded to my hand, among other aspects) and they are my work tools. Knives are something you should cheap out on.
ohhh, no, both of the knives to the left (cold steel ti-lite and CRKT mount whitney) are manula knives no springs...just smooth openign knives that are well oiled...
Having a non locking blade is fine as long as you know and expect it not to lock. If you think it should lock and it doesn't, then it's dangerous. Most swiss army knife style knives don't lock, but you aren't expecting them to.
Thank you for review. Actually, I really like my super-bargain FROST Little Nomad folding frame lock knife. I bought 5 for $15. Size and shape is similar to Kershaw Scallion. Frost steel is quite good and holds an edge well. Plus, it's a cinch to re-sharpen. I dropped it on concrete and one of the hardwood handle slabs popped off. It was simple to fasten it back into place with a couple dabs of JB Weld epoxy. In summary, some inexpensive knives are KEEPERS! Paul
I agree with the fact that the Mt. Whitney is a good knife. I have a Mt. Rainier and have owned it for a couple of years and it hasn't rusted, dulled, broken, or closed randomly. It has made many hotdog/smore sticks, has been dropped, (rarely) and has never really gone wrong. Also, one cool thing is that it has a second lock, so that the frame lock cannot be moved when opened.
I have a MT.Shasta it has a great serated edge that will not dull it has never closed on me either no rust no nothing
i dont have the money for high price knives but i buy decent ones and i think it makes me appriciate them more. i take care of them like sharpen them and oil parts that get squeaky. you dont need to spend upwards of 30 bucks for a quality knife. my favortie knife is a gerber one i bought on clearence at wal mart for 17 dollars about 2 years ago and it still holds strong.
yes as far as production balisongs go, yes all Benchmade balisaogns can be used and used hard as well as for flipping...
Hi love the vids
yes as good as a bunch of $100+ slipjoints...but its onyl fair to compare it to other slipjoints though as it cant compare with locking folder....
@biohazarduss there is a lot more to quality knives and yes alignment is an issue once you get into higher end knives
you said most, why not all? lol, see what I mean, trust me Im not dissing cold steel I own and love many of their products, Im just saying they ahve made items I did not think were worth the money considerign what else there is out there to compare it to...but cold steel to me IS a good knife company in general for sure...
its the cold stel ti-lite there are a few versions of it now but this simple 4" zytel versions sells for $40...
I would like to thank you *if you see this* for the very informative advice and tips you made in this and your other videos
As a newer knife collector I have been only testing and purchasing cheaper knives French, American, Switch Blade, and Butterly.
This answered a lot of things I wasn't sure about as far as "blade play" is concerned and the basic quality of a knife.
The nationality or make in general also seems to be a defining factor as far as rare antique and style is concerned.
well I assume you dotn have any loctite so I wodul suggest using a drop of nail polish, but it on the screw threads then put the screw back in and let it dry overnight...that will keep the screw from moving much...
i used to have that "lbad" knife with the red scales, if you are basing it off of price it is but that was one of the most durable knives i have owned. i could cut branches off tree, pry things open, ect. and it couldnt break. i could go on for the longest time about the things i have put that knfe though. the liner was tight and the blade was much more tight than yours seems though. the only reason i dont have it anymore because someone took it apart and lost all of the screws.
I would like to mention that if you're left handed you'll probably never buy a frame or liner lock intentionally, since you have a far higher chance of the blade suddenly coming unlocked, especially if you're using it for whittling and choking up on the spine of the blade a bit for more control. I have more knife related scars on my hands from frame and liner lock knives suddenly closing on me because I'm putting pressure on the spine of the blade in line with the material I'm cutting while holding the knife in my left hand.
Great video! Benchmade knives are my favorite. Great quality, and cool design. But a bit pricey...
I hear ya...I was just using it as an example, because in the end a knife is just another tool...
Owned a CRKT knife once but unfortunately I lost it! But still own a Gerber Gator serrater. I've had it for years and have used it for a lot of different jobs. Still just as strong as the day I bought it! One of the best I have ever owned!
japanese sword come in many different types of grinds not just convex. their gardening machetes are also chisel ground as well so i wouldn't go so far as to say they aren't for more than delicate chores. also draw knives and cold chisels are chisel ground and are for hard use as well.
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
Ahh yeah I heard over seas the rpices are very inflated which makes getting knives harder..But congrats on your purchase!
Hey Cutlerylover, I have a Sherfield Pocket knife and bought it for about $10.00 and it locks up real easy, the liner lock is quite thick, there is very very little to no play when it is locked, and the blade is centered when closed.
this is so funny to watch from 5 years ago :p lol your so much different now and its hilarious to see how you explain things back then!
crkt makes osm eof the best "cheap" knives out there if you cant afford expensive high quaolity knives your best bet is with a CRKT or low end kershaw, just my opinion, but there are other great ones as well like BYRD and some buck models
thats a cold steel ti-lite the 4" zytel version it cna be had for @ $40 online...actually pretty common...
6:40 using some thread seal tape wrapped on the pivot screw should take care of that (or Locktite) Even more expensive knives can have that problem. One of my benchmade knives had some bladeplay when I got it (a Griptilian) and I tightened the pivot screw and bladeplay was gone but the blade was stiff and not smooth anymore when open/close, so I opened and closed it alot and noticed that the pivot loosened. Applied some tape and have not needed to readjust the pivot and that is over a year ago.
Your welcome, thanks for the nice comment!
@shooter7424 nope... they flick open by the use of a detent on the liner lock... as you put pressure on the thumb stud the detent will pop out of the little hole in the blade and flick the blade open quick... the detent also helps keep the blade in the handle making it safer...
One that I design myself that everyone wants to buy, lol...One day in the future when I become a knife maker and peope, are all talkign about the new Jeff Smith folder...thats my dream knife...
Lock can be fixed in 5 minutes by slightly filing the blade or lock. Play can be fixed by tightening screw and perhaps putting some loctite on it. The washers and blade metal are all that matters. Mainly just blade metal.
I agree with the statement regarding certain persons perspective. But they may have no idea what their knives are made of. Which in some instances especially fixed blades you go to chop something and a chunk of steel goes flying through the air. But as far as folders go as long as they keep their fingers away from where the blade folds it is personal preference. Yet if not you can be seriously cut by some unknown material with who knows what kind of coating. Not necessarily a black wash as they have been doing tests they are finding silicone on many handles. So knowing what your knife is made of is important.
no...its just easy to flick open thats all, lol, after I added soem tuf-glide metak lube its nice and smooth...
It all really depends on what you're needing to do with your knife. I've got a ZT 0350 with s30v steel that will cut anything and hold an edge forever, but is actually duller than a knife a third of the cost made of aus 6m high carbon steel. I also have a Smith&Wesson Extreme Opps that matches it but doesn'hold it as long. I got that for $16.
I hear ya...yeah I am just tryign to get people interested in knives, but not as just cool weapons that are scary, lol...which most kids see them as...
My favorite knife i ever bought was for $10 at a flea market years ago, its still in great shape, and i still find it to be my EDC of choice above even my cold steel blades.
I have always loved my BUCK 110 since my dad gave it to me for my 11th birthday. But I always carry a cheap, 10-20 dollar, flea market knife for those less than knife friendly tasks.(like prying out a staple or cutting those pesky zip ties)
Sometimes its good to have a poor quality knives to use as an extreme beater.
all over the palce, lol, used from the forums like bladeforums and knifeforums, new from online shops like newgraham and knifeworks...
that design is popular....its actrually a rip off of a custom klnife, like most cheapos knives they copy good designs without creators permission of course...
you make very good pionts here and that is why i like fixed blades, they never accidently fold up on you
fyi, i have some $9-12 chiineee knives that are "good", the Gerber I am holding made in Portland OR is a soft stainless that pits, will not hold or gain an edge, and the lock slips easily with a so-so push of the hand [I was Amazed!!! Bought it at REI]. If you wait for a "good" knife to gain maturity [be on the market long enuf] you can get a great knife for $20-$30 on Amazon. I recently got a Ken Onion for under $30 that once retailed over $90.
As someone who's carried 30 dollars knives on a camping trip with guys using 300 dollar knives, I can tell you with absolute certainty that cost is NOT automatically an indicator of quality or utility. It has more to do with style and the economic situation. Same reason Glock can make quality guns at a low price.
Kershaw and Spyderco both make a line of reasonably priced folders that are well built, sturdy, and hold a good edge. Some are even truly rustproof if they use the right steel like H1.
"good" is an opiniononated statement, but when you start using $500 kniuves the $7 ones just dont cut the mustard anymore, lol but to many all they know is $7 knives so they think some are good...like I said if it works for you thats always good...
All Emerson knives are chisel ground. It makes it easier to sharpen in the field.
alot of the knife community use knives that cost way more than that...I knwo of at least 100 peopel that EDC $400 striders or sebenzas....
The red one is a project pro, they sell them at like dollar stores and gas stations, usually they have a little knife with them
I just started making my own knives I love collecting knives and other tools but I just could not ever find the right one to use so I get my old tools that either broke or no need to use them and I just make one that fits what I’m gonna do with it great hobby too
I have a black spyderco,'Native3',That has,As you taught me,A chisel-ground & it definately wasn't cheap,But i use it All the time,It's half serated & sharp,Still!I know I'll have to get around to sharpening the blade,Some day,But i love it.
I definately agree with you,About it depending on the person & the knife.For example,I have an All black Pacific pocket knife,Which was quite inexpensive,But still works like a charm.I have a pritty good collection,But can't get my hands on a Balisong!
I guess it depends on personal opinion and the usage. I bought a 15 dollar Winchester folder at Walmart in Sept. 2010 before a trip up to Michigan's UP (which turned out to be the most awesome/least awesome trip EVER) I've had it ever since stuck in a pack, or in my pocket, or thrown on the floor...whatever. It's a great knife. Keeps a great edge...does ALL THE THINGS I need it to. I've not spent $400 on all the knives I've ever owned. I harvest Chaga...that's what my knives are used for.
True, but they are much harder to care/conceal (not to say it cant be done) but there are PLENTY of great folders out there that way less and do just as good a job unless your using it extremely hard....
Good topic, CL. Here's some data points for version 2:
1) Price not a good indicator of quality. (Ontario Rat-1 for instance) And don't slap me, but while Emersons are costly, they are chisel-ground (Ugh. HATE that) and many people disassemble and rebuild before use due to issues.
2) ADVANTAGES of lower-end knives: Cheaper steels can be "tougher": 420J can flex a little and almost impervious to rust, where D2 can shatter, and will rust.
New Vid: Favorite P.O.S. for E.D.C.!
I use the forums where other colectors and users go to talk...they ahve trade sections...knifeforums, bladeforums, candlepowerforums, edcforums, ect...
I have it up already, search jaguar classic, also I dotn mention it in the video bu any BEAR and sons brand balisogn is just as nice if not nicer...
Fun watching these "flash back" and still informative.
Thanks.
The less expensive knives are great for experimenting with, changing scales, file work or learning how to sharpen without messing up a good blade. Everyone should own a few.
Awww, I was so hoping for that black and wood knife to be a good one...
No, thank YOU for watching, haha, I appreciate it!
@pshychopat No its not spring assisted, and because he has done it alot of times, and he has propperly adjusted the pivot point.
Hey, been a big fan of yours for years now. It was funny to see my (essentially) EDC knife on your crappy side. I'm not taking offense to it, I picked it up real cheap up on NY when I was visiting a flea market. Its the black one. Mine says its a G-Tech, same frame lock design, I've had it for about 2 years now and the black finish is still there. Worn only in places where its been chipped by dropping it. My knife has no play and locks each time. I like it a lot, but I do like the tips you gave.
A good knife is one that serves the purpose for which it is intended and is structurally sound and without defect. That being said, buy whatever you like.
My favorite carry knife is the 6 " Ti lite
It opens several ways is fast sharp and fairly long.
It fits in my hand well looks bad ass and
You can use it as a striking weapon closed.
1:45 ; then there are those of us who buy spendy knives occasionally, but also cheapos, and old flea market things, but also a custom or two.
I went to walmart (I know, I'm sorry), and bought a knife for 4 bucks. It looked decent.
It was shaving sharp. And the lock quality is wunderbar. I was shocked. Nice. Now my edc.
I bought a knife for 40 bucks on impulsse once. It sucked. Couldn't sharpen it, and the tip broke off.
Bought a 50 dollar one, works like a charm. Good fighting knife too.
I have a mini Griptilian (I got it on sale, $80) and a serrated Byrd hawkbill ($20) and of course the benchmade has better steel but they're both awesome.