Anthony! Man sometimes a guy finds himself lost and about to give up or go buy something or pay someone alot more money than you planned for that job, to get what you need. I found this video and am so thankful! I'm really good at my trade and electric work is not it. Anyways thanks a ton for posting this. I am using this hoist in my new body shop business I'm starting. Normally at a shop you grab four guys to each lift a corner of a truck bed to remove it from the frame to put onto a bed-cart to work on a bed like replace a bedside or repair the rear frame of the truck. Since it's just me and one other guy, we have no way to lift a bed off. So I decided to mount the hoist to the ceiling beam in the shop and lower the hook to a mechanism I built to grab under the four corners of the bedcap lip and lift up enough to drive the truck out from under it then lower it onto the roll around bed-cart. Needed to lengthen the remote chord about 25 feet, and run it down the roof support beam. You just made my life a lot easier pal. Thanks again!
Thank you for this video. I just bought the same hoist and going to attach it to the ceiling in my shop. 13ft tall and the 5 ft cord just doesn't cut it for my short self. I couldn't find the cord at home depot or Lowe's...I will definitely go to the right place to get it now...
Thanks for the info, went to electric supply today to get the cord. My question what are the red and blue wires in the hoist wiring? The SA cord I bought has the normal colors. I just don't want to fry anything by being in a rush.....its happened before....
Hey Greg. Don’t worry if the colors aren’t the same as the old cord. Just match both ends when you replace. So if your new cord has green, just connect to both points where blue was connected. Just take pictures before at each end so you don’t get confused after you start disconnecting.
Very good video, I just purchased the 1 ton version of this hoist and had a pretty good chuckle that they give you 40ft of cable and a 5ft wired remote. On your wired remote the capacitor is inside and you mention needing full size wiring due to that, which makes sense. Would it be safe to assume then with mine having the capacitors (mine has 2) under the wire housing off the motor that my wiring going to the remote should just be control power? I haven't really torn it apart yet and from where I'm going to use it it I may only be adding up to 10ft to it. I'm actually thinking about running it to a junction box over on the wall so the remote will be hanging off the wall, instead of making a longer cord.
@@TheVintageEngineer Yes, on the main unit there are 2 caps under the cover. I haven't opened up the remote though, but would assume there wouldn't be one there if there are 2 on the main unit.
Thanks to your video I have extended my 1,300 lb. Harbor Freight controller. It seemed to work most of the time but sometimes when I push the down position it will hum but not go down. I can touch the up position and then immediately the Down button and it will work ok. It seems this occurs if I haven’t used it in a while. Is this normal or do I need to open my controller and double check my connections?
Initial thought is the mechanical contacts in the switch. Check connections and then look at replacing the switch with one of the same or higher rating
I've just Bought the HappyBuy 1320 Lbs Winch. I'm wondering if there's a capacitor in the remote control or not. I'm planning on using it with another remote control (3-Way) because it will open and shut the access to the 2nd floor of my Garage (so i've to be able to use it at the first and second floor). If there's no capacitor, I Assume that i can use both switches in parrallel but if a capacitor is in the 1st one, I probably need on as well in the 2nd remote? Thanks for your time!
I’m going to have to think about this one. The way it works (and really all models are probably the same) is it has two windings in the motor and they are joint to a common wire. So the motor has 3 wires (1 for each winding and the common). It puts the capacitor in series with one of the windings and to reverse it puts the capacitor in series with the other winding. I’ll have to draw it out but you might be able to run it in parallel and have both switches utilize the one capacitor.
Well after looking at it some more (take a look at this diagram www.pinterest.com/pin/544865254918729349/) you would have to get another remote with a capacitor because one of the nodes/terminals of the capacitor in the remote isn’t accessible via the wires coming into it. So either get a matching remote and run it all in parallel, get a remote without a capacitor and route an extra wire to the old remote to interface to this untapped terminal, or you rig up a double pole double throw relay at the hoist, relocating the cap to this relay location and then have low voltage wires go to each remote for them to control this relay. Easiest way would be identical remotes in parallel, only issue would be if you hit a button on one and someone hits a button on the other at the same time (might burn something up, haven’t traced the circuit out enough to know what it would do). But I would think this is a rare occasion.
Good afternoon, I have a question: 3 years ago I bought a new 110 V 1200 W 60 HZ clip I took it to South America and connected it with a 3500 W 220 to 110 v transformer, it never worked, it doesn't turn, it just makes a noise trac trac. You guys might have an idea of what the problem could be.
I just bought the hoist model #60346 and it has an intermittent problem. I checked on UA-cam and it has been reported by many other buyers. Sometimes the UP button does not move the hoist UP, but the DOWN button works properly and moves the hoist Down. Several posters believe the problem is with the capacitor or its wiring, but I think it might be with the " Safety stop Switch" mechanism because you can make it work again by tapping the brake switch arm and the hoist will work again properly when the UP button is hit. Do you know about this issue, or what the problem may be ??? I didn't take the control apart because I didn't want to void the warranty....... Any info would be appreciated.. .
If it’s under warranty I would just take it back. maybe the safety ring isn’t popping all the way out to relieve the switch. Could be a dimensional issue with how they interact
how do the wires go from remote to motor? I have a 4 wire line. My wife got the wire snagged and pulled the wire out of the top by the motor. I need help Thanks
hii, nice video. I was wondering if you know how to allow the limit switch to operate in both the up direction and the down direction. I'm trying to operate it for shaft cleaning in my workshop. so basically I'm trying to make it go down and up again in one click. in other words, if I pressed down I'm trying to make the wire go down until it turns on itself again forcing the wire up which will trigger the limit switch. the problem is that the limit switch is only operating while I'm hoisting up but if I'm hoisting down the limit switch seems to be switched off even if I pressed it manually it won't stop the hoist. any idea how to allow the limit switch to work in both directions?
Take a look at this diagram. You will need another switch in line of the blue wire (capacitor to terminal block). This motor works by having two windings, it reverse by switching which winding has the capacitor inline (causing the phase shift). i.pinimg.com/originals/aa/a1/aa/aaa1aa60ea68749b5517ef21eaafc101.jpg
Thanks for posting. I know I'm late to the party. Anyone know a good source for an 8 pole up down momentary switch to replace the one in the handle. I can't find them anywhere. Mines a clear plastic switch with 8 terminals, rather than the 6 terminal switch they shipped with yours here.
Just thinking about it without really drawing it out, you could probably get by just wiring a switch in parallel. I think you can buy a switch and cord already together. I would think you would only need the one capacitor in the main switch. When you activate the secondary, since it’s in parallel it should utilize the capacitor in the main switch. The main thing to watch out for is to make sure that both aren’t used at the same time. Can’t hit up on one and down on the other, I believe that would have an ill effect.
I finished my extra control finished. In case anyone is interested I was able to find the capacitor on eBay. It is sold as part for Loadmaster garage door opener. 56uf 240 ac . This is the only source that I found for this part. Works great!
Yes , two caps are required since the cap has no function unless it’s switch is activated... I just made an identical control and spliced it in above the original control. I used 14 ga service cord and an electrical junction box ( modified) for the control box. Even painted it safety yellow. Note that the Loadmaster part is skinnier. And longer than the HF part.
Great explanation. I have the same exact winch and I have been trying to figure out how to run the winch from a wall DPDT switch or something like that. Have you tried that yet?
Because if the start capacitor for each it would probably be best to keep them electrically isolated. I would replace the DPDT switches in each circuit with DPDT relays and have both relays controller by a switch.
@@TheVintageEngineer 😩 I wish I knew how I need a motorized rack at my garage and the easiest way to get it is by installing 2 hoists at the ceiling but the problem is that both need to be synchronized. 1 hoist will work but then i get into the problem of mounting the hoist on the wall and adding pulleys etc.
Javier Rivera I would go with a garage door shaft, pulleys, and cables. I’ve seen a guy attach the shaft straight to the output shaft of the hoist before.
@@TheVintageEngineer I think you are talking about this video ua-cam.com/video/2p0cLZQiM30/v-deo.html the problem is that I do not have an attic, above the garage I have a bedroom, and the garage is only 115 inches height.
Tim Norman if you are using the 220/440 hoist that uses 4.1 amps then 16 gauge will be fine up to 100 ft. You will probably be using THHN wire so, if it was me I would probably just go for 14 gauge, since 14 gauge is more available than 14/4 SJ cord (at least at a home store). I would just reuse the same capacitor that comes with it.
could you use a 5 cord extension, couldn't you soldering two wires together on both connections, using 16 guage thickness. so you will have two big connections and one small one for the ground I'm Using the biggest cord extension I could find... I'm not going to use the crappy bunches of tiny wires to make a big one I'm using one big solid wire from a 5 line Cable I would have TWO big wires and ONE small ground wire 100' foot long.. is that capable/Worthy of doing the job? same motor, how thick would you go if this is not a good idea what would be recommended I can only use what's available to me.
Just cracked mine open. No starter in the yellow control, just a big empty space. Cheap asses probably figured out how to eliminate it. :-/ Notice the duty cycle on this?? 20%, what a piece a junk.
you are the first guy to use the decent grade wire and the correct gauge wire. nice job!
Anthony! Man sometimes a guy finds himself lost and about to give up or go buy something or pay someone alot more money than you planned for that job, to get what you need. I found this video and am so thankful! I'm really good at my trade and electric work is not it. Anyways thanks a ton for posting this. I am using this hoist in my new body shop business I'm starting. Normally at a shop you grab four guys to each lift a corner of a truck bed to remove it from the frame to put onto a bed-cart to work on a bed like replace a bedside or repair the rear frame of the truck. Since it's just me and one other guy, we have no way to lift a bed off. So I decided to mount the hoist to the ceiling beam in the shop and lower the hook to a mechanism I built to grab under the four corners of the bedcap lip and lift up enough to drive the truck out from under it then lower it onto the roll around bed-cart. Needed to lengthen the remote chord about 25 feet, and run it down the roof support beam. You just made my life a lot easier pal. Thanks again!
Thank you for this video. I just bought the same hoist and going to attach it to the ceiling in my shop. 13ft tall and the 5 ft cord just doesn't cut it for my short self. I couldn't find the cord at home depot or Lowe's...I will definitely go to the right place to get it now...
Anthony - just upgraded mine to the longer cord. Works perfectly thanks to your video. Much appreciated.
Thank you for posting great information. Went to my local electric supply picked up 12’ of wire and was able to do this myself.
Please tell me the location where I find that machine
Thanks! Wasn't sure what I would find inside the controller before buying it. This makes it much clearer.
Of cause, nobody else could have done this without watching your video!!!
Thanks for sharing and for a clear and detailed video. Good Job!
Thanks for the info, went to electric supply today to get the cord. My question what are the red and blue wires in the hoist wiring? The SA cord I bought has the normal colors. I just don't want to fry anything by being in a rush.....its happened before....
Hey Greg. Don’t worry if the colors aren’t the same as the old cord. Just match both ends when you replace. So if your new cord has green, just connect to both points where blue was connected. Just take pictures before at each end so you don’t get confused after you start disconnecting.
@@TheVintageEngineer yeah I realized that right after I posted my question,thanks for your quick response. Informative video!!
These exact units are also sold worldwide under different brand names. Draper and silverline are two UK branded models.
Very good video, I just purchased the 1 ton version of this hoist and had a pretty good chuckle that they give you 40ft of cable and a 5ft wired remote. On your wired remote the capacitor is inside and you mention needing full size wiring due to that, which makes sense. Would it be safe to assume then with mine having the capacitors (mine has 2) under the wire housing off the motor that my wiring going to the remote should just be control power? I haven't really torn it apart yet and from where I'm going to use it it I may only be adding up to 10ft to it. I'm actually thinking about running it to a junction box over on the wall so the remote will be hanging off the wall, instead of making a longer cord.
You saying on the main unit you have two caps? If that’s the case then the remote probably is just wiring.
@@TheVintageEngineer Yes, on the main unit there are 2 caps under the cover. I haven't opened up the remote though, but would assume there wouldn't be one there if there are 2 on the main unit.
Any links for a chart for the right wire size? Everywhere I look, for 30' length, everything is recommending 14g wire.
🙏You are GREAT .... !!! 🙏
... it was very helpful , thanks for sharing .
I found a very heavy duty winch for cheap but no wiring. Is it as easy as running 4 wires from terminal (no cover) to a controller? Thanks
Thanks to your video I have extended my 1,300 lb. Harbor Freight controller. It seemed to work most of the time but sometimes when I push the down position it will hum but not go down. I can touch the up position and then immediately the Down button and it will work ok. It seems this occurs if I haven’t used it in a while. Is this normal or do I need to open my controller and double check my connections?
Initial thought is the mechanical contacts in the switch. Check connections and then look at replacing the switch with one of the same or higher rating
I've just Bought the HappyBuy 1320 Lbs Winch. I'm wondering if there's a capacitor in the remote control or not. I'm planning on using it with another remote control (3-Way) because it will open and shut the access to the 2nd floor of my Garage (so i've to be able to use it at the first and second floor). If there's no capacitor, I Assume that i can use both switches in parrallel but if a capacitor is in the 1st one, I probably need on as well in the 2nd remote? Thanks for your time!
I’m going to have to think about this one. The way it works (and really all models are probably the same) is it has two windings in the motor and they are joint to a common wire. So the motor has 3 wires (1 for each winding and the common). It puts the capacitor in series with one of the windings and to reverse it puts the capacitor in series with the other winding. I’ll have to draw it out but you might be able to run it in parallel and have both switches utilize the one capacitor.
Well after looking at it some more (take a look at this diagram www.pinterest.com/pin/544865254918729349/) you would have to get another remote with a capacitor because one of the nodes/terminals of the capacitor in the remote isn’t accessible via the wires coming into it. So either get a matching remote and run it all in parallel, get a remote without a capacitor and route an extra wire to the old remote to interface to this untapped terminal, or you rig up a double pole double throw relay at the hoist, relocating the cap to this relay location and then have low voltage wires go to each remote for them to control this relay. Easiest way would be identical remotes in parallel, only issue would be if you hit a button on one and someone hits a button on the other at the same time (might burn something up, haven’t traced the circuit out enough to know what it would do). But I would think this is a rare occasion.
Good afternoon, I have a question: 3 years ago I bought a new 110 V 1200 W 60 HZ clip I took it to South America and connected it with a 3500 W 220 to 110 v transformer, it never worked, it doesn't turn, it just makes a noise trac trac. You guys might have an idea of what the problem could be.
Possible the capacitor maybe went bad. Should be a square small box like a relay on these type hoists. Motor hums?
I just bought the hoist model #60346 and it has an intermittent problem. I checked on UA-cam and it has been reported by many other buyers. Sometimes the UP button does not move the hoist UP, but the DOWN button works properly and moves the hoist Down. Several posters believe the problem is with the capacitor or its wiring, but I think it might be with the " Safety stop Switch" mechanism because you can make it work again by tapping the brake switch arm and the hoist will work again properly when the UP button is hit.
Do you know about this issue, or what the problem may be ??? I didn't take the control apart because I didn't want to void the warranty....... Any info would be appreciated..
.
If it’s under warranty I would just take it back. maybe the safety ring isn’t popping all the way out to relieve the switch. Could be a dimensional issue with how they interact
your the best for this video!!! thanks
You have guide how to fixed brake in motor sir
How would one wire in a quick disconnect for the controller? I was thinking of using a 4 prong plug just for the controller cable.
Should be able to just cut and make sure the wires match up prong to terminal.
May be dumb but couldn't I buy the proper gauge wire and just cut it and length it that way?
Cut and splice in a cable? You can but you would need like a junction box.
how do the wires go from remote to motor? I have a 4 wire line. My wife got the wire snagged and pulled the wire out of the top by the motor. I need help Thanks
hii, nice video. I was wondering if you know how to allow the limit switch to operate in both the up direction and the down direction. I'm trying to operate it for shaft cleaning in my workshop. so basically I'm trying to make it go down and up again in one click. in other words, if I pressed down I'm trying to make the wire go down until it turns on itself again forcing the wire up which will trigger the limit switch. the problem is that the limit switch is only operating while I'm hoisting up but if I'm hoisting down the limit switch seems to be switched off even if I pressed it manually it won't stop the hoist. any idea how to allow the limit switch to work in both directions?
Take a look at this diagram. You will need another switch in line of the blue wire (capacitor to terminal block). This motor works by having two windings, it reverse by switching which winding has the capacitor inline (causing the phase shift). i.pinimg.com/originals/aa/a1/aa/aaa1aa60ea68749b5517ef21eaafc101.jpg
@@TheVintageEngineer THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!! i will give it a try
Thanks for posting. I know I'm late to the party. Anyone know a good source for an 8 pole up down momentary switch to replace the one in the handle. I can't find them anywhere. Mines a clear plastic switch with 8 terminals, rather than the 6 terminal switch they shipped with yours here.
Made the mistake of cutting remote cable at the motor. do you have a wiring diagram showing the connection of remote cable at the motor?
Hi, if I would like to wall mount the remote, could you tell me if it would be easy to run only 1 wire and not 1 for power and another one for remote?
You saying have plug-->remote-->main unit?
I need to operate the winch from two locations. How do I wire in a secondary switch. Thanks for any help. James
Just thinking about it without really drawing it out, you could probably get by just wiring a switch in parallel. I think you can buy a switch and cord already together. I would think you would only need the one capacitor in the main switch. When you activate the secondary, since it’s in parallel it should utilize the capacitor in the main switch. The main thing to watch out for is to make sure that both aren’t used at the same time. Can’t hit up on one and down on the other, I believe that would have an ill effect.
I finished my extra control finished. In case anyone is interested I was able to find the capacitor on eBay. It is sold as part for Loadmaster garage door opener. 56uf 240 ac . This is the only source that I found for this part. Works great!
James Clark so I guess you have to have two caps for it to work with the 2nd remote?
Yes , two caps are required since the cap has no function unless it’s switch is activated... I just made an identical control and spliced it in above the original control. I used 14 ga service cord and an electrical junction box ( modified) for the control box. Even painted it safety yellow. Note that the Loadmaster part is skinnier. And longer than the HF part.
Great explanation. I have the same exact winch and I have been trying to figure out how to run the winch from a wall DPDT switch or something like that. Have you tried that yet?
William Vega should be able to mirror or copy the way it is wired on the factory switch (it’s DPDT).
I did the exact thing with a 3d printed adapter for the switch into a light switch faceplate.
IS THIS A DOUBLE LINE? DO CAN YOU TELL IF IT'S A SINGLE OR DOUBLE LINE?
JUNEORJUNE it can be used both ways
How to break it
because the rop holist not stop at down position without Power where is the break How to reltifing it
How to speed up hoist
do you know how to synchronize 2 hoists with 1 controller to make both go up and down at the same time?
Because if the start capacitor for each it would probably be best to keep them electrically isolated. I would replace the DPDT switches in each circuit with DPDT relays and have both relays controller by a switch.
@@TheVintageEngineer 😩 I wish I knew how I need a motorized rack at my garage and the easiest way to get it is by installing 2 hoists at the ceiling but the problem is that both need to be synchronized. 1 hoist will work but then i get into the problem of mounting the hoist on the wall and adding pulleys etc.
Javier Rivera I would go with a garage door shaft, pulleys, and cables. I’ve seen a guy attach the shaft straight to the output shaft of the hoist before.
@@TheVintageEngineer I think you are talking about this video ua-cam.com/video/2p0cLZQiM30/v-deo.html the problem is that I do not have an attic, above the garage I have a bedroom, and the garage is only 115 inches height.
Javier Rivera it was an older video than that but it’s the same setup
Untuk d indonesia dimana agen dan harga berapa ada berapa tepe
Please tel me practically how ro wiring cannection details.
Thanks this was helpful!
Need to extend the control through conduit 75 ft. Do I need a new capacitor? What size wire do I need?
Tim Norman if you are using the 220/440 hoist that uses 4.1 amps then 16 gauge will be fine up to 100 ft. You will probably be using THHN wire so, if it was me I would probably just go for 14 gauge, since 14 gauge is more available than 14/4 SJ cord (at least at a home store). I would just reuse the same capacitor that comes with it.
This the model 60346 , we have to hang motors from ceiling and run conduit across to the wall and down to a a suitable height
could you use a 5 cord extension,
couldn't you soldering two wires together
on both connections, using 16 guage thickness.
so you will have two big connections and one small one for the ground
I'm Using the biggest cord extension I could find...
I'm not going to use the crappy bunches of tiny wires to make a big one I'm using one big solid wire from a 5 line Cable
I would have TWO big wires and ONE small ground wire 100' foot long..
is that capable/Worthy of doing the job?
same motor,
how thick would you go if this is not a good idea what would be recommended
I can only use what's available to me.
Hi sir video is very interesting. Pls can u send me the wiring diagram of switch,motor,line
Sar motor my mob.9897352264
Sir will you provide me circuit diagram
Search google images for “harbor freight hoist wiring diagram” and it will come up a couple.
Very helpful. Thanks.
y not spice the wires ?
I don’t like splices in the middle of the wiring. Plus I prefer the softer E code SO cord.
Change the cable to a longer one.
How'd you get the cap off on the hoist to get at the wires? There aren't any screws and it looks like a real bitch to pry it off
I think mine were screwed on
@@TheVintageEngineer I sorted it, but thanks! Essentially the same unit but mine has two capacitors and underneath is where the remote wires in.
I need
How can I made more faster
Just cracked mine open. No starter in the yellow control, just a big empty space. Cheap asses probably figured out how to eliminate it. :-/ Notice the duty cycle on this?? 20%, what a piece a junk.
La marque de la graise
Making lift