Developing Black and White Film at Home For COMPLETE BEGINNERS
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
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- - - TIME CODES - - -
0:00 Introduction
2:08 How Film Works
3:44 How Developing Works
5:22 The Red Light Misconception
6:45 Film Developing Tanks
8:16 Loading Film
14:09 Chemicals
16:17 Mixing
18:30 Times & Temperatures
20:23 Datasheets & The Massive Dev Chart
22:13 Developing Demo
27:47 Importance of Exposure
29:29 The Negative
30:10 A Brief Word on Scanning
31:28 A Brief Word on Push & Pull Developing
32:53 Some Extra Tips
37:53 Conclusion
40:35 Skillshare Ad
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/analogresurgence04211
I love the video and I will you as you professionally proposed and so kindly showed BUT more important thing how do you properly dispose these chemicals because skipping the most important part it is barbaric and prehistoric. So please advice in how to really properly dispose those liquids who clearly are not suited for a normal sink. and I put the planet first. please advice asap
Thank you
Hey there, chemist here, for your stop step you can probably just use white distilled vinegar you buy at the grocery store. You just need something mildly acidic to quickly neutralize the developer.
Thanks for the tip!😊
i am an old dude, that developed many rolls and sheets of film. i just watched this as a lark. you did a pretty good job. i am impressed...keep it up.
As an OG film developer, I have to say this is a very, very well done video. Would love to see you do a video about stand developing. I feel it’s one of the easiest ways to develop b and w. But this method is the way one should first learn.
Haha oops, I thought it would be best to learn with stand development so that is what I have done for the 2 rolls I have developed so far.
I have however tried to practice the proper agitation methods with the fixer so if I ever decide to learn color develoing (or non stand black and white) I will alredy be somewhat used to doing it.
I saw in a video, with good results, that they skipped the Stop Bath step, is that correct?
As a cash-strapped college student in the late 1960's, I learned how to "twist away" on the agitation rod (thermometer included!) of a Yankee plastic tank. It was a simplified (non-invertible) version of the JOBO and Paterson plastic tanks seen these days. I got a tad impatient at having to completely dry the 120/135/16mm collapsible plastic reel, and soon graduated to Nikor and Kindermann plastic/stainless steel tanks and reels.
I used a Film Changing Bag, and Kodak HC-110, but graduated to D-76. Diluting the HC-110 concentrate to 1:15 resulted in a "hotter than 68 degrees Fahrenheit" liquid. Endothermic reaction not helped by local "room temperature" starting at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Indicator Stop Bath and powdered Fixer were next, the latter replaced by Rapid Fixer. Why D-76? I was using a variety of films found at Freestyle Sales, which marketed ORWO, Ilford, and Adox film. As a "Classic" film developer, one could find a starting point to develop these films in the same tank, which is/was another money saver.;)
Pro Tip. Don't mix up developer and Fixer. Happend to me recentely
Last night I almost poured the stop bath in first. Caught myself just in time. Probably could have saved it by rinsing really good but still. I have also poured my fixer into the dev bottle.
I haven’t had a chemical oopsie (yet), but my photography teacher was showing us how to mix the chemicals, and in a lapse of judgement, proceeded to pour undiluted fix into the diluted developer bottle. She was not happy. I’m pretty sure that she pays for the chemistry out of pocket too, so that sucked.
I'd say "you don't need a darkroom" is the most important message to get across. A developing bag can do a lot of work. Just make sure you have *really* clean and dry hands.
Would wearing gloves still work or would it make things more slippery?
@@stuffenjoyer2223 if you practice loading film in the tank with gloves, youre a master. i find you need a lot of dexterity in your fingers to “feel” what youre doing
@@stuffenjoyer2223 I use powder free nitrite gloves while loading. Helps minimize finger prints if you are having issues putting the film on the spool.
I do it in the laundry room which has no windows. I just close the door, put a towel between the floor and the door and turn the lights off. I then load the film with everything in the washing machine, since there can still be some light slipping in from under or the sides of the door. Usually I develop a batch of three (or two mediums) and it's always went fine and dandy. Except that first time I developed 120 and I loaded it emulsion side up.
about 15 20 years ago someone gave me a 500ml of HC-110 and then I stopped playing with film. recently got back into it dug it out of a box mixed it up to try using it and it worked. it had not been stored well. pretty amazing. I will probably use it primarily. used d76 in college.
the easiest way to load Patterson reels is to get the leader started in light before putting it in the bag. if you forget to leave the leader out when rewinding or your camera can't, it's easy to pull it out with the leader of another roll.
Great video!!! I have been developing film since the 70s and it was so nice to see a clear video of how to do it. I am sure you helped some people who are afraid of doing it ... I still have trouble with 35mm on plastic reels, but am a boss with 120!!!
The blind folded loading was good stuff, have never seen that in all the tutorial vids I've looked at. 😄
And yes, I use the AP tank and love the big flange reels, easy to slide film in.
ALSO thanks for using HC-110, that's my go to for shelf life and versatility.
I’ve had many people saying that the AP reels are super good when it comes to extremely thin film like Santa RAE 1000. It’s much easier than with paterson reels.
My photography class used AP tanks, but I thought they were Patterson tanks. So I asked for a Patterson tank. My grandma and grandpa bought a Patterson Super System 5 tank (which I thought was overkill (until I realized how amazing developing 5 rolls at a time is, lol). Best. Tank. EVER. I was prepared to have to clean up chemicals from leaky tank, but it doesn’t leak like the AP tanks! It’s sooo good!
I received a Darkroom Development kit for Christmas from my parents when I was 10. I did this for several decades until digital cameras came along. Now I want to get back to old school and go back to film and paper developing. I came here just to refresh my memory. It is time to set up a new Darkroom and go back to Old School.
Such perfect timing, I was just about to develop my first roll this weekend. You've taught me everything I know about film photography and it means a lot! :)
I only wished you put this video out a month ago when I first started home developing. So much wisdom here and thank you so much for making this video!!
What an outstanding video! 👏 In a short period of time, you managed to cover all the basics of black and white film development. Thank you so much!
😂 What a great intro!! 🤣
You've gone into sooooo much detail here and still made it entertaining!
The thing I learned when I started ANALOGUE photography was, what an abyss of a subject this is! It seemed like the more I learned... the less I knew! And I’ve come to accept this.
Awesome video 😊
Thank you for this . I used to develop B/W , Colour Neg and Reversal all size 120 stock nearly sixty years ago using identical tank you demonstrate to us . Great fun thinking back on those days now I am in my mid seventies . You gave me a great start to my Saturday . Thank you for a great channel . I also worked on 16mm 35 and also 70mm motion picture films for Cinema and Preview Theatre Projection . Lovely memories . Keep at it .
I saw only two videos of you, but I like it. You are calm, good pronunciation and speed. No drama like others!!!
Shaking the developer and water solution in the jug is introducing a lot of bubbles into the Developer solution. Such violent shaking is unnecessary. Swirling the mixture in a large graduate thecway you did before you poured it into the jug is sufficient.
The solution will further blend if you use the agitator stick supplied with your tank. This method of agitation is preferred to inversion with plastics tanks.
Inversion is only necessary with stainless steel tanks.
I was thinking the same thing! :)
14:27 HOMEBREW STOP BATH SOLUTION:
1 part 5% vinegar to 10 parts water.
Vinegar is essentially dilute acetic acid, which is the base chemical for most stop baths, that's why they smell like strong vinegar when you open the bottle.
Excellent video!
OG Photographer here. I've been watching a bunch of these to refresh my memory of Photography Class in H.S.. This is a better explanation than my teacher gave. He confused most of the students. One of the other students and I were in Chemistry together, so it wasn't so bad for us, but we come from a farming community, and his explanations threw a good third of us for a loop. Your explanation would've been better for them, and wouldn't have left out us Chem students and the ones who were already shutter bugs.
Also, that "Knowledge is Power!" clip really took me back. Thank you.
Just ordered everything I need to develop my B&W rolls at home (since my lab outsources B&W developing), I'm really excited to begin and thanks to this video, I think it'll be less difficult!
Really nicely put together and informative video. Thank you for taking the time. I'm just about to start doing my own developing and have been reading, watching and researching loads. This like so many other resources on the internet this was highly valuable.
This is actually insane Noah!!! So cool
Excellent video. I feel you did a great job for an intro. I used Caffenol at home, cause I would never ask a lab to pour strong coffee over my negatives. This was a lot of information in this video, but like Noah said, you don't need much to get started and honestly, it is a heck of a lot easier to develop your film than it is to explain it to someone.
I just developed my first roll with the help of this guide. Thanks so much Noah!
Wow. Thank you for such an in-depth tutorial!
I absolutely like this very informative video! I developed my own film in school back in the 80’s and I forgot a few things, you have totally reminded me! I am actually purchasing my 1st developing equipment and I will keep referring to this video, CHEERS!
One drop of liquid detergent per pint of water will function perfectly well as Fotoflo, if you don't have any or don't want to spend any more.
Loving the new intro! Miss the old one too though. Thanks for this video. It was super helpful. :)
Great refresher video for me to jump start at developing b&w films again at home.
Probably the best video on this theme in the entire Internet! Thank you! Wish you well :)
When I took a photo class in middle school, a bunch of kids didn't want to use the changing bag for some reason. They wanted to load their film onto the reels in the darkroom. The teacher said no at first, but then relented to one student who wouldn't quit. We all heard him drop him film after he opened the cassette and freak out because he couldn't find it on the floor. So, changing bag is a good idea unless you're really careful.
We learned on metal ones, but the plastic ones are MUCH easier. I'll never go back.
Well done video, I done film photography back at college in 2010 miss it, so I’m getting back into it, we always used ilford chemicals liquid I’d be unsure on powders, can’t wait to start shooting again, there’s just something about film what digital will never beat.
A really great video. Very clear and easy to understand. Thank you!
The most complete and useful for beginner! Thank you so much!
I just got a bunch of Ilford dev, stop, and fix in the mail last night. I've been using Cinestill Df96. It works. But now I see the real good stuff at work. Not too bad. Just the mixing made me nervous. Thanks for this video.
Greetings from Istanbul! Seeing that bottle opener made me smile :) and I got my Paterson tank a while ago but i don't have a courage to try it yet. however the video is so helpful, thanks for it.
This is GOLD!!
Hey, thank you so much for this very detailed and helpful video :) I just started out with analog photography and the next step is developing...So this video was perfect! ;-)
rodinal is always be my go-to developer. it's the oldest commercial BW developer, first introduced in 1891 by agfa. it's easy to make one at home just mixed Paracetamol or Tylenol in US, sodium hydroxide and sodium sulfite with water. and rodinal also have very long shelf life, i known someone found a bottle of 100 years old rodinal and it's still working. rodinal nowdays come with different name like R09, blazinal, adonal, parodinal, etc but basically it's same rodinal from 1891
Modern Rodinal hasn't got the legendary shelflife anymore, the formula isn't the same as the old one. Some of the old chemicals aren't made/allowed anymore (o.a. causing cancer).
@@erwindegroot8760 agree!
but still modern rodinal have very long shelf life compared to other modern developer
@@erwindegroot8760 i made my own rodinal from paracetamol almost 2 years ago and it's still working until now. no compensation needed and the results still like the first time i made it
@@yanthemonser I had my Rodinal from the shop and it stopped working after about a year. And I know two people who had the same problem (I don't know if they had it from the same manufacturer). A photographer (with a chemistry degree) told me that some of the chemicals in the old Rodinal weren't used anymore because af causing cancer. Because of that, the shelflife isn't decades anymore like the old recipe. I guess home made is the way to go with Rodinal, although I don't think your home made Rodinal will last for decades. But two years is already a respectable time for a developer.
I don't use it anymore, I'm using ID-11 (1+3) and Microphen nowadays. Sometimes HC-110 when a film is very old and probably fogged.
@@erwindegroot8760 yup i think my rodinal will not last for more than 2 years. also i need to makes new ones because it's almost run out. it's only remains for developing 2-3 rolls i think
Amazing tutorial! I feel way more confident
also, using the agitator rod will remove any air bubbles on the film that are introduced when you add the Developer or fixer. you don't have to tap or bang the tank on the counter to dislodge bubbles
Thank you so much for this guide! I just developed my first roll and it went really well!
There are also daylight loading developing tanks, like the ones made by Agfa half a century ago. Those are much easier in field developing or when you can't use dark bag or hog the bathroom for an hour.
Also, I often use syringes for measurements.
I like the metal reels for the medium format. And plastic for the 35mm film.
Thanks for this video!
the video we needed
I love the way you did this. Thorough. Funny as heck. Good work mate! I planned on doing a similar video. But mine will look more like a codger in his kitchen. Love your video.
fav channel! U inspires me boi thx so much
the sample negatives at the end are quite useful.
Thank you! The only thing is .... there are no super cheap rolls for practice any more... But you have got me inspired and subscribed.
At one time I was a newspaper photographer/darkroom tech. One thing I had to use from time to time was a special chemical from Kodak. It seems that another photographer would change the ASA/ISO of the film in the middle of the roll. This chemical was to desensitize the film to light. When mixed up the liquid was purple in color. When you were half way through the development time on a roll, you could examine the film under a special light filter (dark green). Using this process would not fog or screwup the images. The only thing was in viewing the film you had to make sure the images seemed much darker than what they should be. You could end up with some thin images if you were not careful.
“no reel experience” when talking about reels, “won’t be completely in the dark” when talking about film developer… the amount of thought that goes into the script, and the self restraint to not say badum tsss after all of these is impressive
OK, now I'm inspired to learn more. Thank you.
thank you for this!
I had a dream last night that I was processing film that was in my cabinet over 15 years. I watch your video as a refresher, great video. After so many years let’s see what developers.
I insert the film leader onto the reel until I reached bearings in brightness and then put it into dark bag. Can practice loading with dummy roll before doing it in darkness.
Yeah, as long as you're using a camera that can leave the leader out after rewinding this is the thing to do. Skips the hardest parts of loading in the dark.
You said “I have no ‘reel’ experience….” When speaking of other brands of reels. That tickled me. Thanks for the informative video.
there is literally only one developing studio (one guy) in the whole country where i live lmao, thank you for the in-depth video! genuinely.
Great video. Thank you
Wonderfull example, thank you
0:42 One of the reasons why I chose a AP developing tank over a Paterson one.
(AP in my country, but sold under so many brand names, it has two reels inside and a red cover to agitate it, also the light tight funnel screws onto the tank instead of being quote unquote held by a flimsy bayonet thing like on todays Paterson tanks.)
That was incredibly interesting and was a bit nostalgic for me.
I processed my FP4 (mainly) in the later 60s and 70s and because I can see some stuff over in he corner mid 80s/90s. I (mostly) made my own chemicals from Metol or Phenidome and experimented a little. My basic information came from the British Journal Of Photography Year Book, possibly Annual which had formulae in the rear developed by GW Crawley which I think the Patterson Chemicals of the time where based on particularly their high accutance ones. I never liked the adjust time for number of times developed so I made one-shot concentrated developers in my experiments. I even made a Beam Balanced to weigh Phendome to the tenth of a gram for this.
You have re-ignighted an interest for me. I should say "damn you" by rights but that would be unkind. :-) Time to get out the Nikon F again.
I have only developed Colour Reversal (Ektacrome) and not so often using the E4 process. I cannot recall any particular difficulty just the things you highlighted. I have also done B/W Reversal of FP4 which I have very good results from but again, not often.
The only thing I did not see from your video was after hanging the wet film. Wiping. (I used a couple of fingers as a sort of squeegie).
Many thanks for a wonderfully interesting video. Sorry about some of the spelling.
I think i have that book! British photography almanac 1955?
I use Rodinal developer diluted to 1:100, semi stand development,
1 hour development time with agitation halfway though development.
For me it works every single time and the images on roll looks sharp with good contrast.
I hope this good man gets more views
Sorry, but I had to smirk, when you said you had no "reel experience" with the other plastic reels... ;-)
As always, very nicely done and presented - and this will most likely become my first choice to have people watch, that want an introduction into home developing.
Thanks Noah!
Thanks!
Best man👍
I love that, makes a mockery of just digital photography & shows you how to think about your images & doing it properly ❤
Awesome👌
thanks. great.
I use Rodinal/R09/Adonal/etc. (these are the same thing, the solution is public domain, but tha name Rodinal isn't), beacuse it's pretty sharp, with but with tabular grain (T-Grain) film, it dosent play weary well.
With the Patterson reals, you don't need to remove the film from the canister, and you can even start it in light. Just cut the leader off and get the first two or three sprocket holes of the film over the balls, and then do the rest in the dark. Just cut the film at the canister opening at the end. Works fine for me, much easier than trying to get the film out of the canister in the dark.
Excellent video.
Strangely, I have never been able to successfully get film onto the easy loading plastic reels. Give me a good old fashioned metal reel and I'm good.
I'd love to see you do a video on DF96 monobath. I've heard terrible and great things about it. Would love to hear your take on it.
I love the metal reels, but haven't used them in quite a while now!
"loading plastic reels" - I find that if I use a hairdryer to super dry them before loading in the film (basically making sure there's NO moisture), doing this avoids annoying film hang-ups...
Technology Connections metioned in his video that the metal balls can get stuck as the reel dries so before you turn the lights off you should use something like a toothpick to make sure that they are free.
Same for me! Give me stainless steel any day. :)
Hi there, analog resurgence . To be positive seems to be the mode of resurgence then .
Thanks :)
you can use dark green for pan chromatic film... they are insensative
Great video but my issue isn't how but where?? As in where can i get chemicals, paper and film??? Just tried to order from Adorama in NYC, didn't have much of anything. Help!!!!!!
How often can fixer be reused?
Followed these instructions but the film didn't develop. I am wondering if I used the correct blindfold?
Are there tanks for 30 meter movie film?
Tips don't use the reels in video, use the type with large lips that help guide film onto reel. Also, avoid 36 exposure rolls as they can bind up the reel and once that happens it's almost impossible to load on the reel. Also have to be very careful with Paterson tanks when dumping chemicals the top can come loose and expose your film, normally a problem with larger tank. I use plastic tanks made in England that have screw on top, cost more but worth it.
i dont know what reels you are using but mine take 36 exposures excellently
That was a very thorough video. Thank you for simplifying it, so that an absolute beginner could understand. I do have a question. If I wanted to develop onto photo paper, I would still need a dark room, with photo enlarger, and all of that, right?
I know that you are scanning them and converting them to digital files, but if I wanted to keep it analogue, would I need a dark room?
Yes! For really doing any printing from your negatives with an enlarger you'll need a dakroom, or at least be able to setup somewhere in your home that can be made completely dark and also has running water.
So im trying to start this as a hobby, its always interested me and I only seriously considered it until a few weeks ago. I saw that you use digital ways to scan (or print) I don't know the proper terminology yet, do you know any ways I could do it without having to go digital? I don't know if this would be weird or not but i really enjoy old fashioned ways of doing things and i wanted to try.. printing i think its called without having to use my computer or software. any tips or advice?
Do you even print your negatives?
0:42 Wow! That’s a lot of damage!!
Do you have a source where you can purchase raw film developing chemicals in Canada? Like hydroquinone, metol, and the like...
So all i need to do is blindfold me flim will be perfectly fine right??
Does it need to be done in total darkness
Love your channel, you mentioned community dark rooms do you know if there is still in operation in TO? I'd like to try printing before investing in an enlarger :) Post pandemic off course course :)
I really like the people over at LIFT that have dark rooms to rent and some courses! There’s also Gallery 44, but I don’t have any personal experience with them. I believe they’re both just currently experiencing closures due to restrictions at the moment.
lift.ca
www.gallery44.org
@@AnalogResurgence thanks!
what about stand development
Patterson tanks use way more chemistry. They are full proof though.
Apologies if this is a silly question with an obvious answer, but I can't seem to find any info about this anywhere and I don't want to ruin my tank accidentally. When you're done developing, how do you care for the tank and reels? Do you wash them or just rinse and let dry? And if the former, what do you use to wash them?
Most articles I find just talk about the specific case of when the reels get clogged with residue but I can't find anything about how to care for the tank after developing is over.
I've always just rinsed multiple times with water (both the reels and the tank) and let air dry on a mostly lint free towel.
Lol loading film onto the reel was such a disaster for me that I onve ended up, some how, slicing one of my finger and was bleeding all over my equipment while in the dark 🤣😅
You just blew my mine. I've been doing it in the dark, but I thought a dark room would help me. FML
Why stop there? Impress friends by memorising development time and doing the entire process blindfolded
I found a paterson 35mm film developing tank at my great grandfathers house, and it’s in perfect condition but has a plastic stick that can spin the spool from the outside by hooking onto the thing that goes in in the middle of the spool, do you know anything about that?
It's for an alternative method of agitation, you can use the stick to just rotate the reels inside a standing tank instead of inverting the whole tank. It seems easier but if not done in just the right way it can easily lead to uneven development. Personally I've found it pretty tricky but some people swear that it works well for them.
@@sednoid thanks for the info!
Fun game! Take a shot every time Noah says HC-110
Practicing loading using kodachrome so I dont feel bad
So what’s stopping people from making a cap to cover the film cassette so you can develop inside the cassette?
The film is wound to tightly inside of just a film canister. If you are asking about using just the canister as a small developing tank, it’s because the chemicals wouldn’t evenly cover the surface of the film.