You don't have to remove all of those parts! You could have saved a lot of time by just removing the EGR valve from the casing.When you remove the EGR actuator that has the 3 hex head bolts holding it in place, the plunger you kept pressing is the culprit. I use the smallest needle nose vice grips to free it lose and wiggle it outwards. Mind you when you get it out there is a tiny o-ring on it. When you get it out it is usually full of carbon inside the port chamber it doesn't allow it to seal properly. I use a small sharp flat screw driver to break away the carbon, then soak it in lacquer thinner with a small wire brush to clean it thoroughly. Here's a tip! Instead of making a blocking plate when you reinstall the actuator, you can re-install it 180 degrees so the porting is now blocked and then reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to remove it. The hardest part is the 3rd hex bolt at the base of the actuator to get it out. Once you crack it loose you can remove it a lot easier if you have a 2nd hex tool of the same size, cut off the 90 degree bend and attach it to a rubber hose allowing you to spin it easier that quarter turns you'll get the other way!
I noticed your transmission case (the differential connecting to the driver side half shaft) is covered with engine oil. Mine is the same. Wondering where’s the leak? I guess it’s from the above. EGR?
Yes, it is leaking from that area. But I didn’t see any warning for leaking boost pressure. Probably very minor leak. Do you think the leaked engine oil come from the crank ventilation?
@@mcappleish the computer won't give a warning for leaking boost pressure. The dump vavle on that cars turbro was not adjusted correctly & was building maybe 1 psi of boost. No engine light, no nothing. If ever adjust the butferly valve that is controled by the diaphram, make sure to have roughly 2-3 turns preload roughly on the little nuts. For it to function properly, or it will start open up as soon as making boost. Yes a good portion of the oil was from the crank case vent. Possible valve seals going or turbo pressure back into crank case thrrough turbo oil returb at bottom. Those little engines are designed to operate under more load than the smart puts on them. Pretty much idlimg around, but with egr & cat on them they start plugging them selves up & not long before blow by, crud, barely running. If can do in your area, remove the cat, block egr, catch can on crank case vent or vent to atmosphere.
@@manbuilds1587when I unplugged the ccv, I can feel a constant minor draft from the vent hose. I connected the vent hose to a smaller hose on hand. Holy, engine oil squirted out from dip stick. I probably put too much restriction on the vent hose. Never thought there was that much blow by
Hi i wonder if you can help.. cant find any pictures or videos on where the TPS is located in a smart fortwo 450.. my smart recently started jerking and losing power ,ran a diagnostic and got 3 different codes.. PO120, P240 ,P242.. and im hoping to find out where each sensor is located and be able to fix it or replace it myself.. much thanks for your videos
Fro p0240 & p0242 the check valve in the pcv system might have failed or map sensor issue. P0120 is a code for the gas pedal or wires coming from it or connections. I assume you have a gasoline model of smart fortwo. The tps sensor is located at the intake of the engine. On one side of the big flapper valve that controls intake flow. Small thing mounted to side intake after intake tube. Suggest clear & check codes again after remedy P0120 code, either tps sensor or gas pedal full of dirt corroded or connections at pedal or ecm.
I used gasoline, is good at disolving the carbon build up & freeing up parts if stuck. I your egr is operating fine you may not have to clean it. Could just put in the block off plate & it wont get any dirtier & stick. could just spray some wd40 or penetrating oil on it to keep moving freely & throw the block out plate in.
I learned nothing from that. Just vaguely waving the camera over the engine doesn't hack it. Don't know if you ever got around to explaining what the EGR is, and what it does, as I had to stop the video. Couldn't stand any more of that bloody music !
:) I added some info in the description. I was thinking the same thing about the music. I will upload the same video with out the music in back ground for you sir. Should be able to find it from the channel in a few hours. Hopefully some thing on it you can use. This is small youtube channel sir. It is a work in progress & I do not have a studio or a crew. Filmed the repairs I was doing out of necessity. I didn't think to mention what the egr valve was. It opens to allow exhaust back into engine to be burned, part of the emmisions control system.
Wow ok rude.... Egr valve = exhuast gas recirculation valve. Basically it recirculates the gasses to to make sure fuel is truly burned to stop as much toxic gasses as possible. It also gunks up with crap and a starves the car of oxygen the more gunned it is,the harder it is to open and close. And it will starve the car of oxygen. And give a shit ignition/ combustion. You can blank them to stop them doing their job and let the car breathe properly but you also break the law and will fail mot
🤔I think I've been looking for you...last month I bout a seemingly almost one of a kind around here...and lot of places. It's a Sharpred edition 2013, I did a very quick search on googley before bed and there are zero of them for sale currently and no information after a (?)2016 article. Sooo....of course I want to slowly improve it into something better that also won't exist anywhere else 😅😂😅😂
You don't have to remove all of those parts! You could have saved a lot of time by just removing the EGR valve from the casing.When you remove the EGR actuator that has the 3 hex head bolts holding it in place, the plunger you kept pressing is the culprit. I use the smallest needle nose vice grips to free it lose and wiggle it outwards. Mind you when you get it out there is a tiny o-ring on it. When you get it out it is usually full of carbon inside the port chamber it doesn't allow it to seal properly. I use a small sharp flat screw driver to break away the carbon, then soak it in lacquer thinner with a small wire brush to clean it thoroughly.
Here's a tip! Instead of making a blocking plate when you reinstall the actuator, you can re-install it 180 degrees so the porting is now blocked and then reinstall. It took me about 15 minutes to remove it. The hardest part is the 3rd hex bolt at the base of the actuator to get it out. Once you crack it loose you can remove it a lot easier if you have a 2nd hex tool of the same size, cut off the 90 degree bend and attach it to a rubber hose allowing you to spin it easier that quarter turns you'll get the other way!
Why dont simply put egr in closed state, and disconnect EGR actuator connector?
I noticed your transmission case (the differential connecting to the driver side half shaft) is covered with engine oil. Mine is the same. Wondering where’s the leak? I guess it’s from the above. EGR?
Loose clamp on intake, between high pressure pump & head.
Yes, it is leaking from that area. But I didn’t see any warning for leaking boost pressure. Probably very minor leak. Do you think the leaked engine oil come from the crank ventilation?
@@mcappleish the computer won't give a warning for leaking boost pressure. The dump vavle on that cars turbro was not adjusted correctly & was building maybe 1 psi of boost. No engine light, no nothing. If ever adjust the butferly valve that is controled by the diaphram, make sure to have roughly 2-3 turns preload roughly on the little nuts. For it to function properly, or it will start open up as soon as making boost.
Yes a good portion of the oil was from the crank case vent. Possible valve seals going or turbo pressure back into crank case thrrough turbo oil returb at bottom. Those little engines are designed to operate under more load than the smart puts on them. Pretty much idlimg around, but with egr & cat on them they start plugging them selves up & not long before blow by, crud, barely running. If can do in your area, remove the cat, block egr, catch can on crank case vent or vent to atmosphere.
Thank you for all the info!!
@@manbuilds1587when I unplugged the ccv, I can feel a constant minor draft from the vent hose. I connected the vent hose to a smaller hose on hand. Holy, engine oil squirted out from dip stick. I probably put too much restriction on the vent hose. Never thought there was that much blow by
Thanks for the video, but man is hard to see poor lighting, and the music didn't help to listen to the instruction. But appreciate your intention
yes. remade same video without the music. link should be in description.
ua-cam.com/video/PDNpyGPt2z0/v-deo.html
Hi i wonder if you can help.. cant find any pictures or videos on where the TPS is located in a smart fortwo 450.. my smart recently started jerking and losing power ,ran a diagnostic and got 3 different codes.. PO120, P240 ,P242.. and im hoping to find out where each sensor is located and be able to fix it or replace it myself.. much thanks for your videos
Fro p0240 & p0242 the check valve in the pcv system might have failed or map sensor issue. P0120 is a code for the gas pedal or wires coming from it or connections. I assume you have a gasoline model of smart fortwo. The tps sensor is located at the intake of the engine. On one side of the big flapper valve that controls intake flow. Small thing mounted to side intake after intake tube. Suggest clear & check codes again after remedy P0120 code, either tps sensor or gas pedal full of dirt corroded or connections at pedal or ecm.
@@manbuilds1587 thankyou so much for replying..much appreciated.. ill try your suggestion
Dude! Gloves!
can you please tell me how long it would take to remove old egr valve and replace with new one? thanks
1 hour or 2 if have done it before. 3- 4 hours if first time to do.
Did you use water in cleaning it ?
I used gasoline, is good at disolving the carbon build up & freeing up parts if stuck. I your egr is operating fine you may not have to clean it. Could just put in the block off plate & it wont get any dirtier & stick. could just spray some wd40 or penetrating oil on it to keep moving freely & throw the block out plate in.
why music and speak together ?
Learning to make videos. Remade same video no music. See link in description.
You needed to get out intercooler fan and was more easy
Как ты много разговариваешь
Сколько я говорю? Я не говорю много, но стараюсь говорить больше. Интересно, правильно ли я перевожу?
I learned nothing from that. Just vaguely waving the camera over the engine doesn't hack it. Don't know if you ever got around to explaining what the EGR is, and what it does, as I had to stop the video. Couldn't stand any more of that bloody music !
:) I added some info in the description. I was thinking the same thing about the music. I will upload the same video with out the music in back ground for you sir. Should be able to find it from the channel in a few hours. Hopefully some thing on it you can use. This is small youtube channel sir. It is a work in progress & I do not have a studio or a crew. Filmed the repairs I was doing out of necessity. I didn't think to mention what the egr valve was. It opens to allow exhaust back into engine to be burned, part of the emmisions control system.
H Brian, I remade the video for you. ua-cam.com/video/SQecC_HJSOE/v-deo.html
Wow ok rude....
Egr valve = exhuast gas recirculation valve. Basically it recirculates the gasses to to make sure fuel is truly burned to stop as much toxic gasses as possible. It also gunks up with crap and a starves the car of oxygen the more gunned it is,the harder it is to open and close. And it will starve the car of oxygen. And give a shit ignition/ combustion. You can blank them to stop them doing their job and let the car breathe properly but you also break the law and will fail mot
🤔I think I've been looking for you...last month I bout a seemingly almost one of a kind around here...and lot of places. It's a Sharpred edition 2013, I did a very quick search on googley before bed and there are zero of them for sale currently and no information after a (?)2016 article. Sooo....of course I want to slowly improve it into something better that also won't exist anywhere else 😅😂😅😂