I was just going to ask, does anyone else find this therapeutic lol, I really do, Ive made hundreds of joints in my line work and hobbies, but I still love to watch others ;) does that make me sad haha.
I subscribe to myfordboy for the machining and metalcasting....but, there's just something so satisfying about watching soldering. Capillary action is just magic. "solder, I need you to go into that teeny tiny crack, and make it able to withstand high pressure" and solder is all like, "no problem, boss!"
I am so glad that the sort of mishap where the chimney slipped happens to others as well. In my case one of the ends slipped inside. I have also found my bolts used to hold bushes in soldered in irrevocably afterwards. Funny how far flux can migrate, I contaminate the threads with graphite now before soldering, it seems to work.
I am failing to understand what was measured when the calipers were used on the lathe. Maybe from the piece to the tailstock for over all thickness? Great series and production by the way. Thanks for your work.
@@myfordboy As soon as I got home and looked at my calipers and sure enough there is a way to measure there. I will be using it in the future. Can't thank you enough for the education and entertainment.
just a suggestion...if you would use a smaller propane torch, you would have much more control of the heat and where to apply it. less likely to have leaks.
Just wondering why you made is difficult for your self measuring the flange thickness the way you did. You could have just used the other end of the verniers by using the depth gauge
hi can you recommend a good stockist for large diameter copper tubing suitable for model railway boilers,new or salvaged. i live in northwales and as you know there is no enginnering that i know of down here and its really difficult to buy scrap copper and brass as most merchants arnt allowed to sell it .. ive heard of blackgates engineering but thats on the other side of the world in yorkshire lol any help or a point in the right direction would help. on a budget trying to get a 2 1/2 in.od x 16 1/4 in.long thank you in advance
I am doing something seriously wrong, it takes about 3-4 minutes using a MAP torch to get the solder to melt on the small boiler I am making but then it really only forms a globule. Trouble is the figuring the technique. I got the bronze bushes in and the end plates of the boiler and tubes no problem but where the boiler meets the firebox and around the edges of the firebox is not working out.
You need more heat. I have no experience with MAP gas and use a propane torch. The copper has to be a dull red heat for the solder to flow. As you add more metal it takes more heat to achieve this.
+myfordboy it reminds me of my teenage years, my dad made a steam boiler kettle from his own design. a two cylinder engine got powered from that, a home made engine too. he soldered with a rod dipped in flux powder, nice to learn more ways to do things :). Do you have a video on the lathe modification you made?
+Amr Bekhit A chimney draws the heat, like the one in a house. It creates draft so the heat is drawn through the flue and the heat is transferred to the water. The twist of copper inside the flue make a longer path for the heat to travel before escaping through the chimney.
+myfordboy Thanks for the explanation. Am I right in saying you don't necessarily need the chimney? Simply heating the water from below would work, but would take longer as you're relying on convection in the water. But with the chimney the heat can reach more of the water at once.
+Amr Bekhit yes that's right. With a larger boiler you would have more tubes inside for the heat to travel though. This gives a greater surface area between the heat and the water.
Very good, I was wondering if you use deionized water in your boilers to prevent scale build up? I suppose it's not to hard to rinse it out with a little acid occasionally though.
+Pete Young It's a Sievert propane torch fitted with a 2944 burner. 86 KW output! It has an economiser handle that cuts the main flame to a pilot when the trigger is released. I have a selection of other burners but use this big one mostly as with silver soldering it is best to get the work heated quickly before the flux deteriorates.
Excellent work. I really enjoy your videos and learn so much! Does the silver soldering process end up annealing the copper? If so, how do you re-harden it?
Hello, I'm trying to choose my first Blow torch., I saw that you were using 2944 burner. Do you have the one that is fixed to the torch or do you swap to a smaller burner for some jobs? Are you connected directly to the cylinder or via regulator? Any advice welcome. Graham
I have a set of about 6 different burners that can be fitted. Craftsman set. I use the 2 largest burners mostly, especially for boilers and silver soldering steel where you need to get the metal hot quickly. You must have a regulator. Mine is adjustable in 3 steps, I mainly use 2 bar.
Hi! Fantastic work! I'm constructing a boiler following your videos. I'm in the soldering phase and came across an issue. I soldered the two plugs on the top cap with ease but when I tried to do the same for the water gauge plugs at the tube the silver solder didn't flow. I'm using a MAPP torch with 30% silver stick. The tube is a 3inch by 1.5mm. I mantained the torch open for more than 5 minutes but failed. Do I need a more powerful torch? Thanks, Carlos
You do need a lot of heat and be able to get the parts up to red heat fairly quickly or the flux will boil away. I have no experience with MAPP gas but you can see I use a propane torch with a big burner.
useless to say as always great craftmanship skills. one question, the filler rod you used is silver or lead/stain as the ones used for electric components? moreover the fluxing powder you use is mandatory to be used or " suggested " for best results? can be used alone withouth any other added materials? thanks alberto
+Alberto Gulmini The solder is silver solder and contains a high silver content. it melts around 630C much higher than lead solder. The flux is a special one for this type of solder.
I'm in the middle of building a boiler based on your design, using a 52mm diameter copper pipe and about 250mm high. I've got a Gosystems PT7010H torch which I've successfully used for the shaping and annealing of the end caps but seems utterly useless for the actual brazing itself, even using MAPP gas. I just can't get the copper hot enough. I'm considering getting a Rothenberger Superfire 2 with MAPP, but since many of the brazing videos I've seen seem to use huge torches and/or oxygen/fuel torches, I'm not even sure whether that would work. Do you have any advice/experience of using something like the Superfire 2 to braze a steam boiler of the size I described?
+Amr Bekhit I don't know those products but it looks like both those blowtorches have too narrow flame spread. For boiler work you need to heat up a large surface area so a larger burner would be better. My Sievert torch can be fitted with different burners, the one in the video is not the largest. My biggest one puts out 86Kw of heat and was used to silver solder the largest boiler I made which was 2ft long and made of 1/8 copper.
I can't recall how much I added I have had this solution probably 25 years. It's old battery acid with water to make up the volume I needed to cover a large copper boiler. If it's a weaker solution it just takes longer to work. Maybe not so easy to get now with gel batteries used in cars. Don't forget always add the acid to water.
I dunno about brass, but you can probably make it from copper without a lathe, providing you buy things like the sight glass and the safety valve from somebody like PM Research or Stuart Models. I'm no rocket scientist, but I suspect the former could be roughly shaped with a hole saw, and the copper caps could be soldered without being turned to a perfect fit on the lathe. Whatever you do, BE SAFE!! DO NOT cheap out to the point that it is dangerous. Steam is nothing to screw around with. Before you steam the boiler, perform a hydrostatic pressure test. You can do this by filling it completely with water, then connecting a bike pump or an air compressor tire inflator or blow gun (something with a momentary valve). DO NOT connect an air compressor hose directly, or you have several gallons of high pressure air that will expand rapidly if your boiler explodes. I don't say all that to scare you, a well-maintained model boiler can be perfectly safe, just know what you are getting into and take the necessary precautions.
@@k4kfh im planning on learning how to do all this and make in the end a steam powered rc boat, going to do train first, definately good things to be aware of and do before doing actual tests with hot steam
Hi, superb vid as always:) Could you tell me what exactly silver solder did you use (what Ag%) in the video? As to flux - do you think borax mixed with water is sufficent? it is widely used in plumbering when even bigger temperatures occure during brazing. Thanks!
+105bogus The solder I have is Easyflow 2. It has cadmium in it so not available any more. Equivalent is 455 www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/ 55% silver. I prefer to use the flux that is recommended. No experience with borax. If you are soldering a boiler when you have spent money on the copper it's not worth using the wrong stuff.
+myfordboy It would form Verdegris, and turn the copper green. Also vinegar is only about 3% acetic acid, and that smells sharp. If you went stronger than that you'd know about it, and so would the neighbours!
Yeah I like that 'weed burner' you've got. And do you use different solders for the different steps, i.e. with lower melting points for subsequent ops?
+SteamboatEd Haas Not quite a weed burner, this bad boy puts out 85Kw with the large burner fitted. If you are careful there is no need to use step soldering, i.e. different temperature solder. As long as the previously soldered parts can't fall off, they can be refluxed whilst heating the parts again and the solder will just flow again.
I used Sil-flow 5 for over 20 years for copper repairs 5% silver, 93% copper and 2% phosphorus and it does not need any flux on copper. A smaller torch will consume much less Acetylene. (used closer)
The solder I have is quite old and is Easyfo 2 which has cadmium init so no longer available. Cadmium free solders and flux are available from model engineer suppliers or from www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiIyb6hjrDQAhXLJsAKHUfLBKsQjBAIMTAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cupalloys.co.uk%2Ffor-model-engineers%2F&usg=AFQjCNEOr7ISdlCJ0xts_-0-dZ7OIRYJxQ&sig2=OUutt0M0NZkPt2F7g53X2g
myfordboy thank you so much sir for the info , do you have any plans for making a good size steam engine that dose not use the lathe or machining as I do not own any of those tools I do have coping saw small drill press and some other tools ? Do you think it's possible ? Thank you for your time , and 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 from me thanks once again.
The boiler is silver soldered. You need plenty of heat as the melting temperature of the solder is about 640C. The torch is not too large. Printed circuit solder would never be used for a job like this it would melt when the boiler is heated.
@@myfordboy Ah, thanks a lot for responding. The next thing I need is a mini lathe as I would like to return to my age old hobby of the 80's. I used to make small steam engines in my spare time where I used to work in our mechanic/engineering workshop, using a large lathe, 38 years ago.
Watching silver solder melt and wick into the gap is extremely satisfying to watch...
I was just going to ask, does anyone else find this therapeutic lol, I really do, Ive made hundreds of joints in my line work and hobbies, but I still love to watch others ;) does that make me sad haha.
Learning a great deal from your videos, thanks for taking the time to edit and post these videos
I subscribe to myfordboy for the machining and metalcasting....but, there's just something so satisfying about watching soldering. Capillary action is just magic. "solder, I need you to go into that teeny tiny crack, and make it able to withstand high pressure" and solder is all like, "no problem, boss!"
ooh . good trick with the gauge glass bushes! always learn something in your videos! thanks
I am always astounded by how quickly you work. It makes these videos so entertaining.
Well done - I love watching you work!
Thanks sir. Been checking your channel for the past 3 days for this.
one of the best series on the web sir thank's :)
Good evening mate, I do so enjoy your videos, pse keep them coming.
I am so glad that the sort of mishap where the chimney slipped happens to others as well. In my case one of the ends slipped inside. I have also found my bolts used to hold bushes in soldered in irrevocably afterwards. Funny how far flux can migrate, I contaminate the threads with graphite now before soldering, it seems to work.
+Donald Sayers I use typist correction fluid on areas i don't want solder to stick.
Back in my school days, we put a layer of marbles in the bottom of the sulfuric acid bath to aid retrieval of dropped items.
Beautiful job as always. Keep up the good work Sir.
very nice soldering !! Thumbs up ..
nice job.There are easyflow silver solders with different melting points, this could help when you solder different pieces close together .
ken
following closely, very well produced. thank you.
CT
I am failing to understand what was measured when the calipers were used on the lathe. Maybe from the piece to the tailstock for over all thickness? Great series and production by the way. Thanks for your work.
At 3:55 i was measuring the length of the part protruding from the jaw. Maybe you did not realise that part of the caliper can be used for this.
@@myfordboy As soon as I got home and looked at my calipers and sure enough there is a way to measure there. I will be using it in the future. Can't thank you enough for the education and entertainment.
just a suggestion...if you would use a smaller propane torch, you would have much more control of the heat and where to apply it. less likely to have leaks.
Just wondering why you made is difficult for your self measuring the flange thickness the way you did. You could have just used the other end of the verniers by using the depth gauge
Maybe you don't know the best way to use a caliper. The method I used is more accurate as it presents a larger surface on the work.
hi can you recommend a good stockist for large diameter copper tubing suitable for model railway boilers,new or salvaged. i live in northwales and as you know there is no enginnering that i know of down here and its really difficult to buy scrap copper and brass as most merchants arnt allowed to sell it .. ive heard of blackgates engineering but thats on the other side of the world in yorkshire lol any help or a point in the right direction would help. on a budget trying to get a 2 1/2 in.od x 16 1/4 in.long thank you in advance
I get mine mail order from here www.nogginend.com/product/Copper-C106-Tube
Man... The size of dat torch tho.. Now I know I can solder with a ww1 German flamethrower, hahahaha.
where can I buy the pressure release valve?
If you can make the boiler you would be able to make the safety valve. I can give you a plan. If you want to buy one look for Mamod parts.
Simple.....not so much but, Love the Crocks!!
Reminds me of soldiering up a still.
Nice job!
you make it look so easy
I am doing something seriously wrong, it takes about 3-4 minutes using a MAP torch to get the solder to melt on the small boiler I am making but then it really only forms a globule. Trouble is the figuring the technique. I got the bronze bushes in and the end plates of the boiler and tubes no problem but where the boiler meets the firebox and around the edges of the firebox is not working out.
You need more heat. I have no experience with MAP gas and use a propane torch. The copper has to be a dull red heat for the solder to flow. As you add more metal it takes more heat to achieve this.
What kind of torch are you using?
Seivert propane.
Exceptional
+myfordboy it reminds me of my teenage years, my dad made a steam boiler kettle from his own design. a two cylinder engine got powered from that, a home made engine too. he soldered with a rod dipped in flux powder, nice to learn more ways to do things :). Do you have a video on the lathe modification you made?
+Arjan Wilbie Do you mean the clutch?
There are some details here ua-cam.com/video/FpisXN4anGQ/v-deo.html
Indeed I do. I need to make a mould and cast iron to create the handle or craft one from a iron flat bar 10x30x100.
Always good to have a plan B :-}
Beautiful video, as always! What's the purpose of the chimney in the boiler?
+Amr Bekhit A chimney draws the heat, like the one in a house. It creates draft so the heat is drawn through the flue and the heat is transferred to the water. The twist of copper inside the flue make a longer path for the heat to travel before escaping through the chimney.
+myfordboy Thanks for the explanation. Am I right in saying you don't necessarily need the chimney? Simply heating the water from below would work, but would take longer as you're relying on convection in the water. But with the chimney the heat can reach more of the water at once.
+Amr Bekhit yes that's right. With a larger boiler you would have more tubes inside for the heat to travel though. This gives a greater surface area between the heat and the water.
+myfordboy Thanks once again for the explanation! I'll start embarking on building my own now. I look forward to your next video.
Very good, I was wondering if you use deionized water in your boilers to prevent scale build up? I suppose it's not to hard to rinse it out with a little acid occasionally though.
+Wobblycogs Workshopwhere Where I live the water is very soft and there is no problem with scale. You could use deionised if your water is hard.
What type of torch is that? What fuel does it take? I like the big head, and it seems easier to use than my oxy acetylene torch
+Pete Young It's a Sievert propane torch fitted with a 2944 burner. 86 KW output! It has an economiser handle that cuts the main flame to a pilot when the trigger is released.
I have a selection of other burners but use this big one mostly as with silver soldering it is best to get the work heated quickly before the flux deteriorates.
excellent. I'll look to see if I can find one here in California. thanks.
Excellent work. I really enjoy your videos and learn so much! Does the silver soldering process end up annealing the copper? If so, how do you re-harden it?
+Benjamin Gaudio Yes heating the copper will soften it. The copper hardens after a pressure test. It will also age harden.
Hello, I'm trying to choose my first Blow torch., I saw that you were using 2944 burner. Do you have the one that is fixed to the torch or do you swap to a smaller burner for some jobs? Are you connected directly to the cylinder or via regulator? Any advice welcome. Graham
I have a set of about 6 different burners that can be fitted. Craftsman set. I use the 2 largest burners mostly, especially for boilers and silver soldering steel where you need to get the metal hot quickly. You must have a regulator. Mine is adjustable in 3 steps, I mainly use 2 bar.
myfordboy Thank you for the information.
Hi! Fantastic work! I'm constructing a boiler following your videos. I'm in the soldering phase and came across an issue. I soldered the two plugs on the top cap with ease but when I tried to do the same for the water gauge plugs at the tube the silver solder didn't flow. I'm using a MAPP torch with 30% silver stick. The tube is a 3inch by 1.5mm. I mantained the torch open for more than 5 minutes but failed. Do I need a more powerful torch? Thanks, Carlos
You do need a lot of heat and be able to get the parts up to red heat fairly quickly or the flux will boil away. I have no experience with MAPP gas but you can see I use a propane torch with a big burner.
@@myfordboy what brand and model torch do you use?
@@ChasCo24 It's a Sievert. I have a set that includes regulator, hose , handle and 6 diferent burners
is this style boiler suitable for coal firing ?
+Colin B yes it is.
Good useful video. What tools do I need to do silver soldering? What solder is it ?
You need silver solder and the correct flux like this www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/
You also need a large propane blowtorch.
Did you make the former diameter the same size as the inner diameter of the boiler tube or did you make it slightly smaller ? Cheers
I made it slightly smaller but the end plates were still a bit big so the former was returned to the lathe an a bit was more taken off it.
awesome!
Whhh do you make a messusing a hack saw. Can’t you use a nice cut off tool?
useless to say as always great craftmanship skills. one question, the filler rod you used is silver or lead/stain as the ones used for electric components? moreover the fluxing powder you use is mandatory to be used or " suggested " for best results? can be used alone withouth any other added materials? thanks alberto
+Alberto Gulmini The solder is silver solder and contains a high silver content. it melts around 630C much higher than lead solder. The flux is a special one for this type of solder.
.
myfordboy thanks for answer .could you dirve me to a valid shop that sells both? thanks
+Alberto Gulmini www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/
thank you sir.
I'm in the middle of building a boiler based on your design, using a 52mm diameter copper pipe and about 250mm high. I've got a Gosystems PT7010H torch which I've successfully used for the shaping and annealing of the end caps but seems utterly useless for the actual brazing itself, even using MAPP gas. I just can't get the copper hot enough. I'm considering getting a Rothenberger Superfire 2 with MAPP, but since many of the brazing videos I've seen seem to use huge torches and/or oxygen/fuel torches, I'm not even sure whether that would work. Do you have any advice/experience of using something like the Superfire 2 to braze a steam boiler of the size I described?
+Amr Bekhit I don't know those products but it looks like both those blowtorches have too narrow flame spread. For boiler work you need to heat up a large surface area so a larger burner would be better. My Sievert torch can be fitted with different burners, the one in the video is not the largest. My biggest one puts out 86Kw of heat and was used to silver solder the largest boiler I made which was 2ft long and made of 1/8 copper.
+myfordboy Thanks for your response. What gas are you using for your torch? Are you using oxygen?
+Amr Bekhit No, it's just propane.
+myfordboy Ah ok, that's good to hear. Alright, I'll see if I can hunt for a larger torch. Thanks once again for your advice!
Bronze bushes or brass bushings?
Size of the torch is overkill.
Boiler bushes should be bronze.
Torch size is good for silver soldering, you need to heat it quickly to red.
Great video. I've been watching your videos for a while now, I always enjoy them.
About what temperature does that solder flow at?
Thanks
+Carl Brill 615 deg C
Hello, very interesting, I am following from italy
what percentage of acid in the water?
I can't recall how much I added I have had this solution probably 25 years. It's old battery acid with water to make up the volume I needed to cover a large copper boiler. If it's a weaker solution it just takes longer to work. Maybe not so easy to get now with gel batteries used in cars. Don't forget always add the acid to water.
thanks, I'm a beginner on steam and in Italy does not
has followed.
Trying to figure out how I can make a similar boiler with no lathe, and a bunch of brass pipe and stuff from Ace Hardware haha.
I dunno about brass, but you can probably make it from copper without a lathe, providing you buy things like the sight glass and the safety valve from somebody like PM Research or Stuart Models. I'm no rocket scientist, but I suspect the former could be roughly shaped with a hole saw, and the copper caps could be soldered without being turned to a perfect fit on the lathe.
Whatever you do, BE SAFE!! DO NOT cheap out to the point that it is dangerous. Steam is nothing to screw around with. Before you steam the boiler, perform a hydrostatic pressure test. You can do this by filling it completely with water, then connecting a bike pump or an air compressor tire inflator or blow gun (something with a momentary valve). DO NOT connect an air compressor hose directly, or you have several gallons of high pressure air that will expand rapidly if your boiler explodes.
I don't say all that to scare you, a well-maintained model boiler can be perfectly safe, just know what you are getting into and take the necessary precautions.
@@k4kfh im planning on learning how to do all this and make in the end a steam powered rc boat, going to do train first, definately good things to be aware of and do before doing actual tests with hot steam
i tend to use more flux it keeps the job kleaner but more expensive ttfn&ty
what type solder did you use, Silver?
Silver solder 55% silver
Hi, superb vid as always:) Could you tell me what exactly silver solder did you use (what Ag%) in the video? As to flux - do you think borax mixed with water is sufficent? it is widely used in plumbering when even bigger temperatures occure during brazing. Thanks!
+105bogus The solder I have is Easyflow 2. It has cadmium in it so not available any more. Equivalent is 455 www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/ 55% silver. I prefer to use the flux that is recommended. No experience with borax. If you are soldering a boiler when you have spent money on the copper it's not worth using the wrong stuff.
+myfordboy thank you for reply. it makes sense. As i have borax i'll make tests on some copper pieces and test its strenght. My solder is 45% silver.
Is vinegar not good for pickling? :P
I figure it'ud be safer than sulfuric, but not as nice smelling as citric. Cheaper too.
+jamcat62 I don't believe vinegar is suitable.
+myfordboy It would form Verdegris, and turn the copper green. Also vinegar is only about 3% acetic acid, and that smells sharp. If you went stronger than that you'd know about it, and so would the neighbours!
Not sure of your location but in the UK spirit vinegar is about 5%, but you can get 10% in Polish shops
Are you using MAPP gas or propane?
+SteamboatEd Haas Propane with Seivert torch.
Yeah I like that 'weed burner' you've got. And do you use different solders for the different steps, i.e. with lower melting points for subsequent ops?
+SteamboatEd Haas Not quite a weed burner, this bad boy puts out 85Kw with the large burner fitted.
If you are careful there is no need to use step soldering, i.e. different temperature solder.
As long as the previously soldered parts can't fall off, they can be refluxed whilst heating the parts again and the solder will just flow again.
Interesting!
I used Sil-flow 5 for over 20 years for copper repairs 5% silver, 93% copper and 2% phosphorus and it does not need any flux on copper. A smaller torch will consume much less Acetylene. (used closer)
I am using a propane torch here, no acetylene. Silver solder is the recommended solder for boiler making.
myfordboy were could I buy the silver solder and the powder that you have used for the boiler ? nice thank you.
The solder I have is quite old and is Easyfo 2 which has cadmium init so no longer available. Cadmium free solders and flux are available from model engineer suppliers or from www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiIyb6hjrDQAhXLJsAKHUfLBKsQjBAIMTAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cupalloys.co.uk%2Ffor-model-engineers%2F&usg=AFQjCNEOr7ISdlCJ0xts_-0-dZ7OIRYJxQ&sig2=OUutt0M0NZkPt2F7g53X2g
myfordboy thank you so much sir for the info , do you have any plans for making a good size steam engine that dose not use the lathe or machining as I do not own any of those tools I do have coping saw small drill press and some other tools ? Do you think it's possible ? Thank you for your time , and 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 from me thanks once again.
Juan Smit its really hard without propper tools. Maybe you should get some kits where little to none tools are needed. Should be cheaper aswell
That torch flame is too large for the job. What type of solder is that, printed circuit type solder or is it industrial grade solder?
The boiler is silver soldered. You need plenty of heat as the melting temperature of the solder is about 640C. The torch is not too large. Printed circuit solder would never be used for a job like this it would melt when the boiler is heated.
@@myfordboy
Ah, thanks a lot for responding. The next thing I need is a mini lathe as I would like to return to my age old hobby of the 80's. I used to make small steam engines in my spare time where I used to work in our mechanic/engineering workshop, using a large lathe, 38 years ago.
Since you're soldering copper, could plumbing solder have been used?
+M Kerna Plumbers solder could melt if you let the boiler run dry and is not as strong as silver solder.
I noticed you make your own flux. What is your recipe?
+Sharky's The flux is bought. It is mixed with water.
how long did it take you to make this boiler?
AltNRG Account I don't keep a check of the time spent. It's a hobby so it's not important.
Wow, amazing craftsmanship!
Am I right to assume that steam pressure depends on how much heat the heating element is able to produce? No other factor?
!!!SURPRISING!!!! The floip flops oficina the tornerou. Please send me the model.
Blow lamp is a bit over kill would have used something smaller
Id love to have a lathe! oh teh things i would builld
/
you need a bigger tourch
I know you are being sarcastic but a smaller one would not do the job.
OHHH MY GOD...THAT TORCH IS FROM HELL
+jesse foulk If you think that is the torch from Hell you should steer clear of guys doing asphalt repairs, their torches are bitchin' flame throwers.
Mark Fryer Im gonna check that out on youtube.
No makey shiny ??? :o) O,,,
+Opinionator52 Real boilers are not shiny
+myfordboy Sorry poor choice of words...
Sorry, my friend, your boiler is certainly sturdy, but this brazing is horrific : you put 10 times too much flux.
I am guessing you have never made a boiler.
@@myfordboy Classic reply. Fair play fella