Dude, thank you so much for this video!, worked exactly like you showed. I can’t believe how more quiet and fluid the door moves up and down. I never really thought about replacing before.
No doubt the best way to do this. I followed it to the T and it went very smooth in about 30 minutes for both 16 ft doors. Thank you for posting the video. I imagine this would cost close to $500 to get someone out here to do it for me. I think I paid $50 for the rollers.
I was thrilled to pay the garage repair guy $275 to fix my door. Some home projects I don't want to take on. And he did this roller replacement in addition to the repair. I had no idea the doors could be quieter. I am very pleased.
Since you already bend open the track at one spot, you might as well use that spot to remove the rollers and replace them, one by one. No force needed with a the claw of a hammer to get rollers out. Only the very top one is done on the horizontal part of the rail, and you can slightly twist the rail to remove it and put it back. No need for hammer claws and force.
I suppose you could try that Roadstar Delta. I think you’ll find that it’s more difficult. The hammer method doesn’t require all that much force and I find that it worked very well. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Old comment, but this is the way to do it. Popped out the bottom one first like suggested and it put enough force to bend the track out a little bit where the roller popped out. The rest of them for both sides I just used the bend up top where the tracks join like the poster said above and it went way way smoother. Good call @roadstardelta
I watched your video several times, ordered the rollers, and completer the exchange in about 20 minutes! Absolutely spot on about how to swap out the rollers. Many times quieter now!!!
Thanks for the vid, armed me with info to proceed! I varied the sequence though. After prying both channel sides open, I did the bottom rollers first, moving it to the opening I made and easily replacing it (while door was opened I also did the top rollers). Then I moved the door to put the next one at the opening and did both sides at the same time, while the door was in position. Worked great, easy job!
How smart you are! Awesome man! You have the same type of my door, so I can learn how to replace the rollers. Actually, my door has some problem with a hinge part. I can't disassemble it. If I do that, it won't hang on. So I have searched how to replace only the rollers, without any screwing the whole roller parts. Thank you, man! I appreciate it.
I'll be trying this tomorrow or Monday. Looks easy when you do it. Let's see. I"m a little concerned with bending the channel back. I hope it's still a smooth transition after I bend it back.
It’s a lot more work to take the hinges off. My truck was very easy to bend out and to put back into place properly. No issues. Thanks for watching and commenting.
“Great Tutorial”, but unfortunately I have Steel Tracks that don't move like yours. So I ended taking off the middle hinges and dislocating the curves for the bottom rollers. Your video prepared me for what I may encounter. One tip I have recently seen, is to put "Heat Shrink Tubing" on the sloppy rattling roller shafts that makes them fit snuggly and not rattle at all. I have a couple of hinges that have a larger diameter tube for the Roller Shaft and it really rattles. This stops them. Why buy and install the best new Nylon Rollers if they are still going to make unnecessary noise?
One question I had was, why not lubricate the spindles on the new rollers before putting them on the door? And, should you clean out the part where those spindles ride, perhaps even lube them as well? Looking forward to your reply. Outstanding video!! I never knew it was that easy, and only 1 tool for the job. Many thanks.
Hi Dave. Thanks for your questions, which are very good, by the way. The bearings that I used and recommended are DURA-LIFT Ultra-Life MAX 2" Sealed 6200ZZ Bearing Nylon Garage Door Rollers, (see here amzn.to/3mBCuru ). The bearings come pre-packed with high-performance Mobilgrease Grade XHP 222 grease in bearing cage. The seal prevents dirt and grime from penetrating the bearing cage. Thus, no need for extra grease on the rollers. As for spindles, it is always a good practice to lubricate between the spindle and housing. I recommend a lithium spray using a application straw for full penetration in tight areas. I used CRC lithium grease spray, (here: amzn.to/34C1clk ) for this purpose, but any brand will do. Hope this helps?
@@BudsSmartHome From my experience and knowledge it seems Dupont Chain Saver would be a FAR better lubricant due to cleanliness, and durability. Motorcycle chains are put through much more work, stress and harsh environments than a garage door. Please explain how and if I am wrong. Thank you.
I loved this video. When I went to check my garage door, I realized that the bend track actually fits over the horizontal and vertical track and thus don't easily allow for the bending of the vertical track at the joint. Do you have any other recommendations how I could easily replace the rollers with the track setup I have? Update: I saw in another video that you can bend a section of the vertical track about 12" away from the joint to accomplish the same exit/entry point.
Do you have to bend the track? Or can your just unbolt one Bracket to the rollers at a time. And install it or is this not possible because of the weight of the door.
You can unbolt one bracket at a time, but this is a lot of extra work. It's much easier, and safer to bend the track. Note: if your torsion bar cable is attached to your lowest brackets on both side DO NOT unbolt those lower brackets until you have have released the pressure on the torsion springs. You can incur a very serious injury!!
My new rollers arrived today……However my double garage door is very heavy with heavy duty everything. It was not a simple job like shown in this video….vertical rails had to be removed because of extremely tight tolerances on the rails etc.
@@BudsSmartHome - to some degree……but still need to mount the two top rollers then grease everything with lithium grease. Old heavy wooden doors also require commercial grade springs etc. more noise in old heavy double doors.
Marvin The after installation of garage door roller recorded at video segment 1:30 I realized a 10 dB reduction in noise overall. Also, by cleaning and lubricating my door, I realized another 5 dB reduction in noise. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/e4rgtvGFGwY/v-deo.html. So with roller replacement, cleaning and lubrication I have a overall noise reduction of 15 dB.
I'd recommend moving your finger next time, it seemed the way you held the phone might have got in the way from the microphone during the sound/decibel recording.
The problem with my track is this: Ive owned this home forever. I have always worked more than full time. So.. I’m usually not home when installations take place. Probably have had two new doors and a few new motors//openers over the years. Track is in excellent shape EXCEPT FOR THE BREAK IN THE TRACK. Where more than one person has OBVIOUSLY used your method of bending. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve had to try to re straighten that joint to get it back to smooth. Once metal is bent like that GOOD LUCK getting it back. If you dont, it makes for a noisy operation, WHICH is what we are all hoping to cure. BE CAREFUL MANHANDLING THAT TRACK. You may want to consider using the OTHER alternative, even though it’s a time consuming PITA: BUT BEWARE THE BOTTOM HINGE! COULD BE ATTACHED TO THE TORSION SPRING! Unscrewing the hinges to replace the rollers. UP TO YOU😉 My method? Call a pro, and be home when they’re doing the work so you can learn something👍🏽
Using the claw side of my hammer, I was able to get a controlled bend for a small opening in my track. The opening does not need to be very large to allow easy removal and insertion of the garage door rollers.
@@BudsSmartHome One day I had something laid out on the pool decking, trying to disassemble it when my pool guy ( a former plumber ) showed up. I expressed my frustration.. he laughed and gave me my favorite DIY QUOTE “ IF AT FIRST YOU DONT SUCCEED, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!” 😁😁😁that’s one from the plumbing trade. What do we say in MY chosen trade? ( cosmetology) “ WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS” 🤣🤣👍🏽
Yikes yeah this is ill advised IMO. Better method is to use pliers to bend out a portion of the track NOT on but maybe a foot below the bend so you can get rollers switched and bend track back to original shape.
Thanks for your comment. The bend using this method is very slight. It easily goes back to the original position. Many have commented that have used this method with no problems or issues.
This only works if there is a lot of slop between the wheel and the axle holder. In my case there was no play, the wheel was flush against the axle holder. So I had to unscrew the track from the wall.
but you neglected to clean the track - add a little lube to the new roller axles - lube all of the hinges and tighten up all nuts and bolts that hold the door together !
It’s very easy and much faster. Did you review any of the comments? One recent viewer posted this 2 months ago: “No doubt the best way to do this. I followed it to the T and it went very smooth in about 30 minutes for both 16 ft doors. Thank you for posting the video.”
Yup. Ive got a bent track at that joint, and there’s no going back. Just call a pro to replace those. Observe how it’s done. Garage doors can be deadly if you get overzealous and are unaware of the dangers. ( ie, the bottom hinge connecting w a cable to the torsion spring) 😳🙀
@@bigred4379 no going back? How bad did you bend it? It's easy enough to bend it out slightly, why couldn't you easily bend it back? It's not like it has to be millimeter perfect.
Yikes!! And in case you are wondering, my track is still fine and working well after five years. Thanks for commenting Andy. I replaced the screw drive with a belt drive and the door is super quiet now. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/_xrucvB537E/v-deo.htmlsi=ETNTX6lUywpEKb4R&t=29
Interesting comment, although untrue. To the contrary , my tracks and door are fine as you can witness in this follow-up video ua-cam.com/video/_xrucvB537E/v-deo.html which was produced in March of this year. The video you just watched was published on Feb 14, 2019. That was over 3 years ago.
LM, I'm sorry that you didn't find the video helpful. I believe that you may not fully understand the concept. Thanks for taking the time to comment and express your views.
Dude, thank you so much for this video!, worked exactly like you showed. I can’t believe how more quiet and fluid the door moves up and down. I never really thought about replacing before.
I’m happy it helped.
No doubt the best way to do this. I followed it to the T and it went very smooth in about 30 minutes for both 16 ft doors. Thank you for posting the video. I imagine this would cost close to $500 to get someone out here to do it for me. I think I paid $50 for the rollers.
Glad it helped😊
I was thrilled to pay the garage repair guy $275 to fix my door. Some home projects I don't want to take on. And he did this roller replacement in addition to the repair. I had no idea the doors could be quieter. I am very pleased.
@@mettamorph4523 - quiet is better for sure!
I did this two years ago it worked great! Thanks for this video! 👍👍
I’m happy it helped. Thanks for commenting.
Since you already bend open the track at one spot, you might as well use that spot to remove the rollers and replace them, one by one. No force needed with a the claw of a hammer to get rollers out. Only the very top one is done on the horizontal part of the rail, and you can slightly twist the rail to remove it and put it back. No need for hammer claws and force.
I suppose you could try that Roadstar Delta. I think you’ll find that it’s more difficult. The hammer method doesn’t require all that much force and I find that it worked very well. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Yes.....
Old comment, but this is the way to do it. Popped out the bottom one first like suggested and it put enough force to bend the track out a little bit where the roller popped out. The rest of them for both sides I just used the bend up top where the tracks join like the poster said above and it went way way smoother. Good call @roadstardelta
Thanks for commenting 👍🏽
Great video! Easy Peasy!!
I just did it and it took less than 30mins!!
Good Job! 👍
I watched your video several times, ordered the rollers, and completer the exchange in about 20 minutes!
Absolutely spot on about how to swap out the rollers.
Many times quieter now!!!
Thanks for taking the time to comment Richmond. Enjoy that quiet garage door. 👍
Thanks for the vid, armed me with info to proceed! I varied the sequence though. After prying both channel sides open, I did the bottom rollers first, moving it to the opening I made and easily replacing it (while door was opened I also did the top rollers). Then I moved the door to put the next one at the opening and did both sides at the same time, while the door was in position. Worked great, easy job!
Nice job Terry. Good tip also!
I would also get a tube of Lucas oil products white lithium grease and lube the screw drive. That will make a big difference as well.
I wish I measure the noise too. It was a substantial difference. And replacement was easier. Thanks!
Yes nylon rollers make a big difference.
WOW! Super Informative on how to do this! Never thought of using the Hammer to bend out an area. Thumbs Up!
Thanks for the video. The company wanted $175 to change it. Rollers are $26.00 from HomeDepot .
A great savings for sure!
Thank you! Went fast !
Yes. It was quick and easy with this method.
@ you made this video 5 or 6 years ago and it’s still relevant! Much thx and blessings to you and your family!
@@fortyfourrobo544 - Thank you! Blessing to you and your family as well!
Thank you. This worked just as you demonstrated. I have an 18' x 8' Wayne Dalton.
Glad it helped Alan.
We found that the top roller was a total PITA and it was so much easier to undue the screws and replace the roller...easy peasie.
Good tip! Thanks Robert!
Thanks for this information, it is just what I needed. Can you provide a link to the DB meter you used?
Hi Molliesdad. That app is no longer available. I am currently using this app: apps.apple.com/us/app/niosh-sound-level-meter/id1096545820
Great video, thank you for sharing!
You bet!
Thanks dude your tips worked GREAT I wish I would have watched your video first before watching the other videos.
Thanks for commenting. I’m glad the video was helpful.
How smart you are! Awesome man!
You have the same type of my door, so I can learn how to replace the rollers.
Actually, my door has some problem with a hinge part. I can't disassemble it.
If I do that, it won't hang on. So I have searched how to replace only the rollers,
without any screwing the whole roller parts.
Thank you, man! I appreciate it.
You’re welcome Jake. Glad I could help.
I'll be trying this tomorrow or Monday. Looks easy when you do it. Let's see. I"m a little concerned with bending the channel back. I hope it's still a smooth transition after I bend it back.
It’s a lot more work to take the hinges off. My truck was very easy to bend out and to put back into place properly. No issues. Thanks for watching and commenting.
“Great Tutorial”, but unfortunately I have Steel Tracks that don't move like yours. So I ended taking off the middle hinges and dislocating the curves for the bottom rollers. Your video prepared me for what I may encounter.
One tip I have recently seen, is to put "Heat Shrink Tubing" on the sloppy rattling roller shafts that makes them fit snuggly and not rattle at all. I have a couple of hinges that have a larger diameter tube for the Roller Shaft and it really rattles. This stops them. Why buy and install the best new Nylon Rollers if they are still going to make unnecessary noise?
Good Tip Bob. I have seen this as well and it is on my to do list! Thanks for taking the time to comment. 😁
Amazing explanation. Thanks for sharing
My pleasure! Glad it was helpful 😀
One question I had was, why not lubricate the spindles on the new rollers before putting them on the door? And, should you clean out the part where those spindles ride, perhaps even lube them as well? Looking forward to your reply. Outstanding video!! I never knew it was that easy, and only 1 tool for the job.
Many thanks.
Hi Dave. Thanks for your questions, which are very good, by the way. The bearings that I used and recommended are DURA-LIFT Ultra-Life MAX 2" Sealed 6200ZZ Bearing Nylon Garage Door Rollers, (see here amzn.to/3mBCuru ). The bearings come pre-packed with high-performance Mobilgrease Grade XHP 222 grease in bearing cage. The seal prevents dirt and grime from penetrating the bearing cage. Thus, no need for extra grease on the rollers. As for spindles, it is always a good practice to lubricate between the spindle and housing. I recommend a lithium spray using a application straw for full penetration in tight areas. I used CRC lithium grease spray, (here: amzn.to/34C1clk ) for this purpose, but any brand will do. Hope this helps?
Here is my follow-up video about properly lubricating your garage door to further reduce noise: ua-cam.com/video/e4rgtvGFGwY/v-deo.html
@@BudsSmartHome From my experience and knowledge it seems Dupont Chain Saver would be a FAR better lubricant due to cleanliness, and durability. Motorcycle chains are put through much more work, stress and harsh environments than a garage door. Please explain how and if I am wrong. Thank you.
@@mtnbikerva1 - This seems to be a sound suggestion. Personally, I have no experience with Dupont Chain Saver. Thanks for the tip! 😃
Well done 👍🏻
Thanks Papa Joe! 😀
Great video, thank you for the instructions and me saving a bundle of $$$ from calling the garage door guys!!!
Thanks Gene. I’m happy the video helped.
You have springs, you just can't see them.
If you put some heavy grease on those roller shafts while you're there, that'll help too.
What is the appropriate grease to use on the roller shafts when installing new rollers?
The garage door manufacturer specifies lithium grease. Product Links below…
I loved this video. When I went to check my garage door, I realized that the bend track actually fits over the horizontal and vertical track and thus don't easily allow for the bending of the vertical track at the joint. Do you have any other recommendations how I could easily replace the rollers with the track setup I have?
Update: I saw in another video that you can bend a section of the vertical track about 12" away from the joint to accomplish the same exit/entry point.
thats kinda tricky. if you do bend it back to the same spot your good. nice touch.
It's easy to do and a safer and quicker way to replace the rollers for sure!
Do you have to bend the track? Or can your just unbolt one Bracket to the rollers at a time. And install it or is this not possible because of the weight of the door.
You can unbolt one bracket at a time, but this is a lot of extra work. It's much easier, and safer to bend the track. Note: if your torsion bar cable is attached to your lowest brackets on both side DO NOT unbolt those lower brackets until you have have released the pressure on the torsion springs. You can incur a very serious injury!!
I would say change the rollers at any cost, I saw the meter hit 80 dB and that's going to surly damage hearing over time.
Thanks Jace.
Wow your method was super simple thanks. 👍
You're welcome PC!
My new rollers arrived today……However my double garage door is very heavy with heavy duty everything. It was not a simple job like shown in this video….vertical rails had to be removed because of extremely tight tolerances on the rails etc.
Did you get a reduction in noise level?
@@BudsSmartHome - to some degree……but still need to mount the two top rollers then grease everything with lithium grease. Old heavy wooden doors also require commercial grade springs etc. more noise in old heavy double doors.
🤔 what is the benefit of the affiliate link to the garage door spring loaded hinge?
Good eye Rich. Thanks for pointing this error out to me. I've removed those links as irrelevant.
@@BudsSmartHome 😲😁👍🤣
Did I miss your final dB test, after the replacement work was finished? What was your average dB measurement then, please?
Marvin The after installation of garage door roller recorded at video segment 1:30 I realized a 10 dB reduction in noise overall. Also, by cleaning and lubricating my door, I realized another 5 dB reduction in noise. Video here: ua-cam.com/video/e4rgtvGFGwY/v-deo.html. So with roller replacement, cleaning and lubrication I have a overall noise reduction of 15 dB.
Awesome!
Thanks Anthony!
What decibel meter are you using on your phone?
I looked in the app store but could not find that particular one.
Hi Jeff, I no longer have that app. It may have been discontinued.
what app did you use for db test
hipidydipidy - The app is called Decibel X
@@BudsSmartHome thanks for the reply
awsome
Thanks!
I'd recommend moving your finger next time, it seemed the way you held the phone might have got in the way from the microphone during the sound/decibel recording.
Good observation. Thank you.
The problem with my track is this:
Ive owned this home forever. I have always worked more than full time.
So.. I’m usually not home when installations take place.
Probably have had two new doors and a few new motors//openers over the years.
Track is in excellent shape
EXCEPT FOR THE BREAK IN THE TRACK. Where more than one person has OBVIOUSLY used your method of bending.
I cannot tell you how many times I’ve had to try to re straighten that joint to get it back to smooth. Once metal is bent like that GOOD LUCK getting it back. If you dont, it makes for a noisy operation, WHICH is what we are all hoping to cure.
BE CAREFUL MANHANDLING THAT TRACK.
You may want to consider using the OTHER alternative, even though it’s a time consuming PITA: BUT BEWARE THE BOTTOM HINGE! COULD BE ATTACHED TO THE TORSION SPRING!
Unscrewing the hinges to replace the rollers.
UP TO YOU😉
My method?
Call a pro, and be home when they’re doing the work so you can learn something👍🏽
Using the claw side of my hammer, I was able to get a controlled bend for a small opening in my track. The opening does not need to be very large to allow easy removal and insertion of the garage door rollers.
@@BudsSmartHome agreed. I hear ya. However , thats YOU. Prolly a few joe shmoes gonna make a mess like that😳😁
@@bigred4379 - Yep. LOL!
@@BudsSmartHome
One day I had something laid out on the pool decking, trying to disassemble it when my pool guy ( a former plumber ) showed up.
I expressed my frustration.. he laughed and gave me my favorite DIY QUOTE
“ IF AT FIRST YOU DONT SUCCEED, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!”
😁😁😁that’s one from the plumbing trade.
What do we say in MY chosen trade? ( cosmetology)
“ WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, READ MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS”
🤣🤣👍🏽
That age old adage can be applied to just about any trade.
Yikes yeah this is ill advised IMO. Better method is to use pliers to bend out a portion of the track NOT on but maybe a foot below the bend so you can get rollers switched and bend track back to original shape.
Thanks for your comment. The bend using this method is very slight. It easily goes back to the original position. Many have commented that have used this method with no problems or issues.
This only works if there is a lot of slop between the wheel and the axle holder. In my case there was no play, the wheel was flush against the axle holder. So I had to unscrew the track from the wall.
Thank you Victor
but you neglected to clean the track - add a little lube to the new roller axles - lube all of the hinges and tighten up all nuts and bolts that hold the door together !
Good tips! 👍
Most of that noise is coming from the opener
Thanks for commenting 1a
This seems harder than doing it the correct way lol
It’s very easy and much faster. Did you review any of the comments? One recent viewer posted this 2 months ago:
“No doubt the best way to do this. I followed it to the T and it went very smooth in about 30 minutes for both 16 ft doors. Thank you for posting the video.”
This is a terrible idea and can damage the track. Avoid this method.
It worked wonderfully for me. Very simple and easy and no track damage what-so-ever. Thanks for watching and commenting spotcom.
Agreed!
Yup. Ive got a bent track at that joint, and there’s no going back.
Just call a pro to replace those.
Observe how it’s done.
Garage doors can be deadly if you get overzealous and are unaware of the dangers.
( ie, the bottom hinge connecting w a cable to the torsion spring)
😳🙀
Yes. It’s a very bad idea to try to remove that bottom bracket while is under tension from the torsion spring.
@@bigred4379 no going back? How bad did you bend it? It's easy enough to bend it out slightly, why couldn't you easily bend it back? It's not like it has to be millimeter perfect.
The door opener needs to get loop
Yikes. 100 videos on this and only 1 person says bend the track??!! Maybe just unscrew the screws?
Yikes!! And in case you are wondering, my track is still fine and working well after five years. Thanks for commenting Andy. I replaced the screw drive with a belt drive and the door is super quiet now. Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/_xrucvB537E/v-deo.htmlsi=ETNTX6lUywpEKb4R&t=29
Good way to ruin your tracks and reliability of the door.
Interesting comment, although untrue. To the contrary , my tracks and door are fine as you can witness in this follow-up video ua-cam.com/video/_xrucvB537E/v-deo.html which was produced in March of this year. The video you just watched was published on Feb 14, 2019. That was over 3 years ago.
Что это за дичь? У нас за такое руки бы отбили, вся направляющая на соплях
LM, I'm sorry that you didn't find the video helpful. I believe that you may not fully understand the concept. Thanks for taking the time to comment and express your views.