Mill Power Z Feed Upgrade | Power Lift
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- G'day everyone,
In this video I will be adding a power z feed to the milling machine, or maybe it's called a power lift. Cracking the handwheel takes up a good amount of my time spent at the milling machine. One turn of the handwheel moves the mill by 1mm, so to use long drill bits can require upwards of 100 cranks. The simple solution would be to add a motor to the leadscrew. There are various off the shelf designs for many mills, but not mine, or at least not that I know of, so I'll make it from scratch. I hope you enjoy the video.
#machining #diy #millingmachine
Milling machine - Sieg x2.7l
Timestamps
0:00 - Introduction
1:06 - The Power Feed Design
3:15 - Modifying The Machine And Adding The Motor
7:00 - Wiring The Power Feed
9:39 - Testing The Power Feed - Наука та технологія
Nice job - 2 suggestions: Put some limit switches in at the top and bottom of the shaft to stop the motor before it hits the limits and shears the coupler. Second, replace the switch with something less likely to be knocked accidentally, e.g. a shrouded switch.
@Jason Rosinger absolutely, but it still needs limit switches to cut down the number of operator induced crashes
I agree about the switch. I would use a shrouded rocker that defaults to off. That way it can't accidentally be bumped, and the operator has to physically hold the button in the direction of movement.
That would be entirely up to personal preference. I personally don't think that they are 100% necessarily buy im sure other people would see them as a necessity.
@@artisanmakes This is true, but we all know how mistakes are made. You click down to lower the head, turn away for a moment and next thing you know, you've crashed the Z axis. We love your channel and are just offering advice based on mistakes we've all made. Keep up the great content bud!!!
@@artisanmakes In this case it's not so much a case of personal preference, and more of safety.
Looks like a fantastic quality of life upgrade. Very nicely done!
I have the same Mill as you but went with a Closed loop Nema 34 stepper motor mounted vertically on the top of the column, I made an adaptor to fit the gear on top of the leadscrew.
Using a pulse generator I can get rapid raise and lower plus very slow speeds for vertical milling operations. Also have adjustable limit switches.
That is a brilliant upgrade. Relatively cheap and very tidy! Just the fact that it is so well hidden is the best part.
Keep up the good work!
Ok, I'm jealous. That's a super clean installation. My Precision Matthews Mill needs this upgrade!
Great job!
Such a great simple solution! 👍
That switch is a bit smaller than optimal for 4 amps and might not last forever, but it is an easy job to replace/upgrade the switch at any time.
For the X power feed I would recommend a stepper motor because they keep exact speed regardless of cutting load, that is important to get a good surface finish.
Cheers, the spec sheet says its rated for 4 amps dc so i'm probably sitting right on the limit. Still haven't settled on the exact set up for the table feed, but a nema 34 stepper certainly is the likely option. Cheers.
@@artisanmakes On-Time(your Powerfeed) / Rated-Time-at-max_current(of your switch) = UF(Usage-Faktor). Max_current(of your switch) * UF = The_current_we_maybe_can_get_away_with ... :) In short, that just means that you don't use continuous operation, so ... let's ignore the good advice from Wiz:P
This broad interpretation is only based on the thermal aspects. If the currents are larger (i.e. much larger), parameters such as the spark gap or the contact material come into play. These are then simply not able to switch these currents and ensure that the switch wears out quickly. Or worse: The switching contacts STICK(=DESASTER)!!! For this reason, this power feed should also be supplied via the standard machine emergency stop mains net. Another safety aspect is the type of switch. You can take a look at image search. Toggle switches, up and down buttons or, in the case of expensive models, real levers(with haptic feedback) are usually used as switches for power feeds. This has the reason that one does not accidentally switch. Switches such as the one you used tend to break off and get stuck in one (possibly switched on) place.... So choosing the right switch is a crucial safety issue here, especially as they are used to control a moving part!
I don't see it that narrowly now, but maybe you should think again and look at the many other (preferably professional) solutions and get some inspiration from there. As always, your limbs will thank you in the long run... :) Oh and thanks for the video!
@@artisanmakes TLDR; Instead of dirty botches, RTFM: take a look at the datasheet of the switch. They usually give the peak current and related timings.
Great modification dude, this is something that will serve you great use everyday. I worked out really nice for you as well having all that room in the column to mount stuff. Keep up the good work see you next time 👍
Gday, the electric motor fitted in nicely and so did the power supply, excellent upgrade, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Thankyou Matty, glad you enjoyed it.
Great addition to your mill. Can't wait to see what you come up with for a table power feed!
Great job, well done.
I wanted to add a Z power feed to my milling machine but I did not know how to do. Now I know. Thank you.
slick upgrade!
I'm ways impressed with the quality of your projects.
What a great job. The location of the motor was brilliant..
Glad you enjoyed it, cheers
Good work.
I’m impressed too 👍😎👍
Nice work!!
yes you could have added limit switches and variable speed but you ended up with a very good mod to your mill and a lot less physical work all in all a very good job well done Thankyou
Awesome job! Can I suggest a diode on the motor side of the wiring to prevent back current when manual cranking you risk spiking the power supply otherwise. Also limit switches and a guard on that toggle switch. 👌
That's not something to worry about because the motor isn't connected to the power supply unless im toggling the switch and in that case the motor would be running
Subscribed! 👍🏼
Loving the content.
Thanks
All these tools and not a bandsaw in sight. Lol cracks me up seeing you use a hacksaw every time.
Mate, I am an old sparky and you did a pretty good job on the electrics.
Way to raise up to the challenge 😉
Nice job, you might consider putting on a small gas strut, the ones they use for hatchbacks, to aid the motor in the uplift direction as you can hear that its not as fast going up as down.
I have a 50lbs gas spring on my LMS550 (SX2.7) and it's about the perfect balance. May do a power feed someday.
A simple pulley and counterweight if a strut proves hard to come by or too difficult to fit.
A strut's a great idea for longevity of a leadscrew too although you may go through a few struts per leadscrew... or many.
I have seen that mod done on those x2 mills, but I don't think that I have seen it done on these larger mills.
Attach with an L bracket on the bottom casting and another one on the head on the right side so it tucks in behind the z hand wheel
McMaster 4138T62
Thabkyou, we don't have mcmaster where I live but I might try and source something similar
Nice job
Great job on the power lift. I recently purchased a 3.5DZP with all these things built in.
Neat, didn't know that the 3.5 had that feature built in
@@artisanmakes the 3.5 doesn't have it it's only the 3.5DZP
that is so cool !!
Great upgrade..You mentioned putting a knot in teh power cable instead of a cable tie...to my mind the knot will cause a potential heat spot if the motor malfunctions, so the cable tie is a lot safer.
Awesome
I just bought a Sherline and although I want to avoid mods, one that I am immediately contemplating is fast movement of the carriage because of indeed, the 1mm per rotation! To keep everything as manual as possible, I may one day try to add a half nut. However, the lead screw is a normal thread, not ACME. Not sure if that would work.
Great work! What flexible coupling did you finally install?
Nicely done, second the limit switches etc mentioned by @christopher. Would also recommend moving the 230V behind the main machine kill switch.
I would say that that choice is up to personal preference. Personally I don't see a huge need for it.
Maybe if you consider an upgrade with a NEMA 23 + reduction, arduino for controlling and an RGI hand coder with x1, x10, x100 then you won’t need anymore that hand wheel . Adding 2 limits and some bits of coding and you can have some automatic control too. In the future you can add to this control the X and Y axis .
This would be a good upgrade for your mill .
Best regards.
Great videos, watching you cut steel bar or steel block with that bloody hand held hacksaw makes my brain bleed LOL, bet it takes you forever, dude you need a horizontal metal cutting bandsaw, add one to your Xmas list for Santa.
Me too... My arm is hot just for watching 🤣🤣
First nice job man
1x1 tightening up a drill press for milling... lots of loose parts that are fine as is when fixed/set up right.
Is there a reason why you dont use the lever on the side to lift the chuck for your drill operations. For changing the endmill during milling operations, the lift seams nice.
Could you list mats? Switch? Motor? PSU? Please? That way we can track them down. Thank you looks awesome!
Hello Mr. Artisan.
I'd like to recommend that you make sure your switch is rated for 12 VDC. The AC rating does not apply to DC, it is especially important since you are using the switch as directional switching.
Im the switch is rated for 4A according to the box, so I'm sitting right at the limit, we'll see how it goes but a replacement should only be like $5 if it goes. Cheers
Brilliant solution. Could you please post details of the motor you used? I was going to use a wiper motor, but this one looks like a better fit.
I used this motor from jaycar www.jaycar.com.au/55rpm-12vdc-reversible-gearhead-motor/p/YG2738 I'm sure that there are other geared motors that you can find on ebay, I bought this one simply because I live near the store. All you are really paying for is the gearbox anyway. Cheers.
@@artisanmakes thank you!
Is the gears inside gearbox plastic or metal? On some small gearboxes, turning the gearbox from reverse side (when hand cranking) isn't supported, might break gear tooth if plastic gear.
I believe they are metal gears
Nice work! One downside that i can see for this moment(if i understand correctly, that you power motor from different source) - this solution cant be stopped with emergency stop button or turn off switch on mill
Cheers, certainly something to consider
@@artisanmakes I'm not sure if it will need to have an e-stop given it operates on a momentary switch - in theory can't stay on. But there's theory and then there's practice...
Would a stepper motor have been a more prudent purchase, it would take you closer to a CNC mill?
You could make the case for a stepper motor, but for a cnc you'd really want to replace the leadscrew for a ballscrew. Cheers
I am doing the same but with an outboard linear actuator and gas piston. It works great but........
The head can only move if the gib is NOT locked. This means I have to wait for the motor to move and THEN lock the gib.
This always moves the entire head about 1 to 3 mm. Obviously unacceptable. How do you handle this? Thanks for great videos. I am a new sub. //ji John in Oregon
you might want to look at the gibs inv the head, they might need adjusting
⭐🙂👍!
Having two power supplies can be dangerous for future maintenance. Clear labeling would be a minimum with relays to disable the other supply more work than necessary when changing to a single supply, as you mentioned, is the way to go.
Would it of been easier to maybe change the threaded rod to a coarser thread rod?
The idea is good but I'm just wondering about the life time of this little geared motor... Hopefully it will last for a long time... Greetings from France Laurent
Got me wondering too but its not too different to the priest tools design. Same motor, just a different gearbox.
Is the power supply protected from power back feeding into it from the engine by manually turning the crank? If it could create enough power to damage it in the first place.
It doesn't need to be, its not connected to the power supply unless the switch is toggled
@@artisanmakes I remember that now. I should've watched it twice, lol. While I have your attention, I would like to recommend using a cup wheel in the mill for a makeshift surface grinder, if you ever need one. Have a good one.
When do you plan to make a power saw to upgrade from your hacksaw?
When I get a bigger workshop :)
You need a power hack saw or band saw...
While you are at it, fit a power feed to your lathe, as it will improve your thread cutting 100%
anyway to power tighening the drawbar nut?
Power drawbar has been something that I've been thinking about for a very long time
@@artisanmakes I wonder if it is possible to reuse/repurpose a battery impact driver, plus a plunge drill/router base, similar to how people setup the butterfly air ratchets for bigger mills..
How much?
All up it was about $80 AUD
I didn't think that DPDT switch would work with that motor,
Its at the current limit but it works
@@artisanmakes ok
Why are you using top handwheel to drill for? Your mill has the lever on the side to do drilling with! The top hand wheel is only used when fitting larger items to be milled and never for drilling! I bet you know this also? What you are fitting is a power knee (in reverse)
I never said I use it for drilling, I use the quill for that. But you do need to raise the head to fit larger drills
personally i wouldnt spend the money or the time upgrading something like this.. or even buying it to begin with.. can find a used knee mill for a few k.. if your really getting into machining as much as you seem to be its only a matter of time before u upgrade to a real mill wether cnc or manual and u wont ever touch that hobby mill again.. obviously you like to tinker not just machine so find yourself a used bridgeport and restore it if need be then upgrade that to nc controls or prototrak. just an opinion... decent kurt vice, dividing head/super spacer and rotary table and your good to go
This is the biggest mill I could fit into. This workshop. It's not my workshop so I have to work with the people I share it with. Cheers
That is a *nice* upgrade. Nice and simple too.
I do recommend a larger switch to handle that much current - something like Jaycar CAT.NO: ST0576, it'll handle the current a lot better.
Congrats on an effective and simple upgrade
Cheers, this switch is at the current limit, I'm sure it'll last but if it burns out I'll replace it with something like that.