These are old links, but I would recommend the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the KE. They are both cheap and really easy to use right out of the box@@user-bf1oi5kr5b
Hey what If I want to make big things with a small price it’s my B-day on 19th June so getting close and I want a 3D printer got any ideas on Amazon? If not don’t Worry
@@TheDinoKid_Plays I think Elegoo has some of the best cheap big printers. I have the Neptune 3 max and it is huge for the price, maybe even too big for most people because of the space required
I just started 3d printing, and sometimes my prints looks like the second cube, but I have absolutely no idea how to calibrate it right 😅 (I use Cura slicer) can you maybe show some settings for a good print 😅
When it comes down to the default configs from cura most of the changing you will be starting with will be printer side. Making sure the belts, screw, and attachments are tight but not to tight. Properly leveling your bed and getting the right z leveling. Measuring and getting the extruder motor is tuned right so its ejecting as much filament as it needs to be. Make sure you have all of those things down first before you get to messing with retractions and all the extra stuff that comes with your 3d printing slicing software. The physical and printer software is much more important at the start. Just look up as much info online about working your printer model and issues they have and what to take notice of. Learning from the community will be your biggest help and that will come with time. No one person has a video or article for every 3d printing problem you will encounter. Get out there and learn, think, and have fun!
I'm planning on a series to help with calibration, but if your cube is turning out like the second one. I would start with retractions and speeds. A retraction tower is most accurate way to calibrate that. The speed could also be too fast for your extruder to push plastic. So either slowing down the print or making sure the gears are tight enough gripping onto the filament as it passes through can help.
Honestly print a benchy. That will show alot of your issues thats what im doing to dial my printer in. I bought some silicone dampeners for it too so it stays level for once im tired of leveling my printer every single time i use it
Ahh yes thanks to your video I now know the calibration needs calibrating so I’ll just calibrate the hell out of it. Gonna do some crazy calibration up in here which I definitely know how to do. Thanks again for your priceless advice.
This is all good advice. I personally recommend a variety of torture tests, but especially single parameter tests. If you have a terrible looking benchy, it can be hard to figure out where to start. But if you try a couple of specialized tests, like an overhang test, bridging test, stringing test, etc. you can isolate issues and correct them immediately.
For any new plastic, I do the following: 1) Linear/pressure advance test (with some coarse tuning of retraction over the course of printing, thanks Klipper and FW retraction). 2) A retraction test (often coupled with the temperature fine tuning). 3) A flow multiplier test (a 20x20 mm box with two perimeters of a known width is sufficient). It all takes less than an hour and provides all data needed to really fine tune the printer. *For a new brand of low-temperature plastics like PLA or TPU I also sometimes run a simple overhangs test and bridging test. For crystalline non-composite plastics like ABS or Nylon, I also run a fast, but accurate shrinking test (a 1.2-1.5 mm high and 10 mm wide L-shaped ribbon with 150x150 mm XY dimentions so it fits my calipers). For the initial setup of a new printer or some major hardware change, after running tests 1-3 and dialing in acquired optima, I also run an acceleration "curvy box" test (or an accelerometer-assisted resonance test in case of Klipper) to dial in optimal acceleration values.
The “straight overhangs” you highlighted are typically known as “bridges” rather than actual overhangs, since they bridge to parts together, vs overhanging from one part but not connecting to another. I think that’s an important distinction to understanding slicer settings because most use that terminology.
the problem is even though you see problems there's no information that tells you specifically how to adjust the settings to eliminate the "issues" on your print.
Actually, there is one. Simplify3d has a "Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide" which gives you a chart with pictures of many different issues and has a page for each to tell you what causes it and how to fix it (including settings adjustments).. It's honestly pretty awesome, imo. I wish I knew of something like this for Resin printing. If anyone knows of such, please share.
@@TechnoBabble Thanks captain obvious, like people don't know that's how simple it should be? and where exactly in *the manufactures documentation* should one read? Oh right, there isn't any that provides answers to those questions. Go troll some place else 🤡
@@TechnoBabble Did you fall on your head genius? Did your printer come with documentation that explains how to resolve the "issues" Did you buy a printer to read? Did your printer tell you where to go and read? No? With a little help with your reading comprehension from someone with you might better understand the points being made, but probably not.
@@dosdont HAHAHA, you're so mad that you wrote a whole rant, deleted it, and then wrote another one. Plenty of hobbyist devices don't have mountains of manufacturer provided troubleshooting/tuning instructions. You're arguing that you shouldn't have to do any research to use a fairly new technology in the consumer space that has essentially no day to day use for the average person. Oh, and a bunch of 3D printer manufacturers DO provide a bunch of pages are guides. If you can't look something up online then you probably don't have the technical capabilities to properly operate a 3D printer.
benchy!! cool! and functional! yey. i just started LEARNING about 3D printing (and i mean JUST--- its still gonna be a good long while before i ever may get to print something myself/own a printer) and I have recently watched a whole buncha UA-cam videos (your content is great-ty!!) and followed a whole buncha peeps on other socials that post, well, whole buncha prints n info n stuffs.... and man.... i seriously kept seeing that lil boat and kept wondering WTH was with it & what significance it could possibly have!! haha 🤦♀️ now i know 😎 ...and feel like i learned the secret password to the club . heh. double 😎😎 thanks !
The speed 3D printing advanced for at home printing just blows my mind. Who would of guessed this 20 years ago? I might of thought the tech would be there, but also that it'd be so expensive, it'd only be realistic for big companies to own and operate the things.
Retractions can be the fix for spider web stringing. Try increasing your retraction distance, or using some decent filament. I find the cheapest filament that comes bundled in with a printer can cause the worst stringing, while a decent $15 - $20 spool prints perfectly with the same settings.
It's the worst when you get half way through a large part and you forgot to do your maintenance and the bastard under extrudes haha... Prep first print second don't get too excited 😆
When I was 8 I swam into a huge island of trash on the sea surface and came out with one of those boats. It was so precious to me back then and I still keep the boat
Not really related, but as im watching this im printing an air duct of sorts for a custom battery pack... there is a curved surface with an overhang and as i was watching it print i thought i forgot supports but it turns out then ender3s1plus is just a beast with bridging. I just watched it bridge about an inch with precision as i expected it to fail. No point to this, just a remarkable bridging acomplishment that i wasnt expecting lol.
After using filament 3D printers and switching to resin print, the resin prints win hands down. The only downside is that it can be messy to print if you’re not careful and the wash and cure part is sometimes annoying but over all still much easier to use than a filament printer hands down. The best part is you get prints without lines!
There's something to be said for the claims that you should never print a calibration cube but instead fill the print volume (or a significant portion) with a triaxial indicator. There's also some merit to those who say to measure the axial steps before you print any axial calibration test so that you know that any wrong dimensions aren't from the motion system.
🔥My Favorite Starter 3D Printer: amzn.to/3hMi2r2
Favorite Mid-sized 3D Printer: amzn.to/3Eq9KNa
🌈FAVORITE PLA Filament: amzn.to/3VNqTIc
📂STL Links: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy
www.printables.com/model/118657-calibration-cube
www.printables.com/model/209121-cali-dragon
What’s the starter 3-D printer called
These are old links, but I would recommend the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the KE.
They are both cheap and really easy to use right out of the box@@user-bf1oi5kr5b
@@JJShankles thanks
Hey what If I want to make big things with a small price it’s my B-day on 19th June so getting close and I want a 3D printer got any ideas on Amazon? If not don’t Worry
@@TheDinoKid_Plays I think Elegoo has some of the best cheap big printers. I have the Neptune 3 max and it is huge for the price, maybe even too big for most people because of the space required
I just started 3d printing, and sometimes my prints looks like the second cube, but I have absolutely no idea how to calibrate it right 😅 (I use Cura slicer) can you maybe show some settings for a good print 😅
When it comes down to the default configs from cura most of the changing you will be starting with will be printer side. Making sure the belts, screw, and attachments are tight but not to tight. Properly leveling your bed and getting the right z leveling. Measuring and getting the extruder motor is tuned right so its ejecting as much filament as it needs to be. Make sure you have all of those things down first before you get to messing with retractions and all the extra stuff that comes with your 3d printing slicing software. The physical and printer software is much more important at the start. Just look up as much info online about working your printer model and issues they have and what to take notice of. Learning from the community will be your biggest help and that will come with time. No one person has a video or article for every 3d printing problem you will encounter. Get out there and learn, think, and have fun!
I'm planning on a series to help with calibration, but if your cube is turning out like the second one. I would start with retractions and speeds. A retraction tower is most accurate way to calibrate that.
The speed could also be too fast for your extruder to push plastic. So either slowing down the print or making sure the gears are tight enough gripping onto the filament as it passes through can help.
Honestly print a benchy. That will show alot of your issues thats what im doing to dial my printer in. I bought some silicone dampeners for it too so it stays level for once im tired of leveling my printer every single time i use it
Dude, it's really not that hard
@@Aweoe dude’s just getting started. Be nice, you weren’t born an expert in 3D printing either.
You forgot to mention the torture toaster
That will be the next video
That's so much filament and time though
It's a good test, but it's way too big of a print for just a test. Torture toaster is more of a flex than anything
@@BillBard don’t calibrate using the toaster immediately, work your way up. Basically, check your calibrations one last time with the toaster.
Ahh yes thanks to your video I now know the calibration needs calibrating so I’ll just calibrate the hell out of it. Gonna do some crazy calibration up in here which I definitely know how to do. Thanks again for your priceless advice.
I honestly love how the 3D Benchy incorporates so many stress tests into a simple little boat model. Some great design engineering there!
This is all good advice. I personally recommend a variety of torture tests, but especially single parameter tests.
If you have a terrible looking benchy, it can be hard to figure out where to start. But if you try a couple of specialized tests, like an overhang test, bridging test, stringing test, etc. you can isolate issues and correct them immediately.
Not owning a 3D printer, I see this as an ABSOLUTE WIN!
Finally, a 3D printing channel that shows ways to better your prints. Rather than just, "Look at the thing I made!". Great work, dude. Keep it up! 👍
For any new plastic, I do the following:
1) Linear/pressure advance test (with some coarse tuning of retraction over the course of printing, thanks Klipper and FW retraction).
2) A retraction test (often coupled with the temperature fine tuning).
3) A flow multiplier test (a 20x20 mm box with two perimeters of a known width is sufficient).
It all takes less than an hour and provides all data needed to really fine tune the printer.
*For a new brand of low-temperature plastics like PLA or TPU I also sometimes run a simple overhangs test and bridging test. For crystalline non-composite plastics like ABS or Nylon, I also run a fast, but accurate shrinking test (a 1.2-1.5 mm high and 10 mm wide L-shaped ribbon with 150x150 mm XY dimentions so it fits my calipers).
For the initial setup of a new printer or some major hardware change, after running tests 1-3 and dialing in acquired optima, I also run an acceleration "curvy box" test (or an accelerometer-assisted resonance test in case of Klipper) to dial in optimal acceleration values.
This is great advice as long as the calibration devices come with instructions on how to fix the issues they highlighted.
“Now your printer can tackle larger prints”
Kink in the Z screw: “allow me to introduce my self”
The “straight overhangs” you highlighted are typically known as “bridges” rather than actual overhangs, since they bridge to parts together, vs overhanging from one part but not connecting to another. I think that’s an important distinction to understanding slicer settings because most use that terminology.
Community: Please tell me if I’m wrong on this or if there is any further nuance.
the problem is even though you see problems there's no information that tells you specifically how to adjust the settings to eliminate the "issues" on your print.
Actually, there is one.
Simplify3d has a "Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide" which gives you a chart with pictures of many different issues and has a page for each to tell you what causes it and how to fix it (including settings adjustments)..
It's honestly pretty awesome, imo.
I wish I knew of something like this for Resin printing. If anyone knows of such, please share.
So you look up the issue you're having and you read...
@@TechnoBabble Thanks captain obvious, like people don't know that's how simple it should be? and where exactly in *the manufactures documentation* should one read? Oh right, there isn't any that provides answers to those questions. Go troll some place else 🤡
@@TechnoBabble Did you fall on your head genius? Did your printer come with documentation that explains how to resolve the "issues" Did you buy a printer to read? Did your printer tell you where to go and read? No? With a little help with your reading comprehension from someone with you might better understand the points being made, but probably not.
@@dosdont HAHAHA, you're so mad that you wrote a whole rant, deleted it, and then wrote another one.
Plenty of hobbyist devices don't have mountains of manufacturer provided troubleshooting/tuning instructions. You're arguing that you shouldn't have to do any research to use a fairly new technology in the consumer space that has essentially no day to day use for the average person.
Oh, and a bunch of 3D printer manufacturers DO provide a bunch of pages are guides. If you can't look something up online then you probably don't have the technical capabilities to properly operate a 3D printer.
"Can it wait a moment Shepard? I need to do some calibrations."
benchy!!
cool! and functional! yey.
i just started LEARNING about 3D printing (and i mean JUST--- its still gonna be a good long while before i ever may get to print something myself/own a printer) and I have recently watched a whole buncha UA-cam videos (your content is great-ty!!) and followed a whole buncha peeps on other socials that post, well, whole buncha prints n info n stuffs....
and man.... i seriously kept seeing that lil boat and kept wondering WTH was with it & what significance it could possibly have!!
haha 🤦♀️
now i know 😎
...and feel like i learned the secret password to the club . heh. double 😎😎
thanks !
A printer at my school has a small turtle one you snap together. I love it.
The speed 3D printing advanced for at home printing just blows my mind.
Who would of guessed this 20 years ago? I might of thought the tech would be there, but also that it'd be so expensive, it'd only be realistic for big companies to own and operate the things.
Bruh right now my benchy has so much stringing it looks like it was taken over by spider webs :/
Retractions can be the fix for spider web stringing. Try increasing your retraction distance, or using some decent filament. I find the cheapest filament that comes bundled in with a printer can cause the worst stringing, while a decent $15 - $20 spool prints perfectly with the same settings.
Feels good
For me who will probably never get a 3d printer I personally like the toaster evaluation
These links were super helpful! Just started my 3D print journey today!
the first calibration cube looks CLEAN AF
It would be great to talk about the printer settings that were changed from the print issues.
Thank you me and my dad are trying to put together the 3-D printer my parents got me Christmas and this would really help out
The best sentence "STL in description"
I would love having a bunch of tiny dragons around my house
Personally I think the calibration toaster is the best for testing
I really want a 3d printer with auto calibration
Hopefully some day they all will be that good!
I prefer the benchy with benchy infill
One of my he best ones is the toaster. It mainly tests spacing and angle.
The first thing I printed ages ago when I got my printer was a mando helmet it worked well
That cube and boat look cool for if I ever get one of these
Dont forget the torture toaster, while larger than your average benchie its still a good one
Thank you for posting this video. I’m doing so much testing now😂
Thanks for the tip, I have recently gotten a 3D printer, so I’ll have to try this out!
we all know you need to print the benchy first, then cal cube, its tradition!
Thank you for this information, now if only I could afford a 3D printer
It's the worst when you get half way through a large part and you forgot to do your maintenance and the bastard under extrudes haha... Prep first print second don't get too excited 😆
That are decently priced?
A lot of the calibration models are good for the ones that print in lines but I have a resin printer and it does completely fine with smooth walls
I like to think that there’s just a room filled with tiny boats in his house
Use calibration cubes for identifying issues, but definitely do not use it for fixing issues. Especially dimensional accuracy.
Me, watching these videos like I could afford a 3D peinter ever: interesting
Thats why i went with resin 3d printing, its so much better in terms of setup
I thought the dragon had a rubber duck body at first 💀
Don't forget the torture toaster!
Bambulab -> Hold my Beer 🍺
I love sloaps
The first test should be the temperature tower. At what temperature will you print the cube?
We had a beckoning cat that had a lot of details in the hair and writing for our calibration
When I was 8 I swam into a huge island of trash on the sea surface and came out with one of those boats. It was so precious to me back then and I still keep the boat
in the future they will find billions if calibration cubes and see them as the letter blocks we played with as babies.
Funny, when I got my very first printer, my very forst print was printing a life size accurate lightsaber that tool over 17 hours to print
One of the preloaded calibration models on mine was a phone holder.
A bad benchy that don’t need no man
That was helpful . Thanks
Thank you! I did none of these...
Idk why this got recommended, i've had my printer for two years.
That is the case In the Bambu ads
lol I need to adjust my settings then, my first print was a calibration cube and it took an hour and a half. It came out great tho
Damn those dragons look so messy
I just printed the cool geometric vase at the end of this video.
That's one of my favorites!
CaliCats are nice for calibration
There is also the teamster to check mechanics
I'll have to keep this in mind, Also nice Tech helmet
“Mason get down”
How
Oh hey tech's helmet. I'm sanding one of those
I've got so much sanding to do!!
Love this
I use the rocktopus.
I printed the vase at the end, can't find the STL for the life of me now.
Thanks!
Thx bro.
My bro says the first thing you gotta print is a boat❤
I really want a 3D printer 😔
There is also Cali Cat!
Not really related, but as im watching this im printing an air duct of sorts for a custom battery pack... there is a curved surface with an overhang and as i was watching it print i thought i forgot supports but it turns out then ender3s1plus is just a beast with bridging. I just watched it bridge about an inch with precision as i expected it to fail. No point to this, just a remarkable bridging acomplishment that i wasnt expecting lol.
The toaster😂
Me waching this trying to figure out how to around this just so I can make a small dragon
After using filament 3D printers and switching to resin print, the resin prints win hands down. The only downside is that it can be messy to print if you’re not careful and the wash and cure part is sometimes annoying but over all still much easier to use than a filament printer hands down. The best part is you get prints without lines!
Thanks
The dragons be like 😘
Creality Calibration Cat my beloved
My favorite has to be the toaster
torture toasters are good for testing as well
I thought the dragons were kissing- 💀
I didn't expect you here
Cube told me I had a loose z axis. First print and saved me from breaking my new printer.
Nice tech print
There's something to be said for the claims that you should never print a calibration cube but instead fill the print volume (or a significant portion) with a triaxial indicator. There's also some merit to those who say to measure the axial steps before you print any axial calibration test so that you know that any wrong dimensions aren't from the motion system.
The great question of course is: which setting do I have to change with which issue?
I haven’t been printing any of that and mine is perfectly fine I’m ready to make a storm trooper helment 💀
My dad tests with a little watering can.
Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My first print was a golf ball 😅
5,000 years from now, archeologists digging up their 928th Benchy exclaim - "There are so many of these - they must have worshipped Benchy as a god!"
Toaster: AM I A JOKE TO YOU
is that boat like the teapot of 3d printing or something I see it everywhere
I kinda want to get a printer but then i have to learn all the lingo and it just seems s so tedius to get going. 😂😂
The calibration cube is meant to be measured after it's printed it's supposed to be exactly 20.0 mm on all sides
A true 3d printer such as myself knows the reprogram that dammmmmm eprom chip
Question the bucket
I got a 3d printer for Christmas, and I vow to never print a benchy lol