2-100 watt renogy solar panels, 3 deep cycle batteries and a battery isolator on my 94 chevy g20 van. Battery isolator works great when you live up north where the sun hides most of the winter.:-)
Great video! Most van dwellers do need to have a dual strategy for creating and storing electricity. The battery isolator will charge the starting battery first before switching to charge the deep cycle house battery. Starting batteries are made to pack a lot of amps used over a very short time (cranking the engine). Deep cycle batteries are created to store lots of amps and then release them over a longer period of time ie when the sun goes down. My experience has been that it can take several hours of driving to fully charge a depleted deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries should not be drained below fifty percent of their storage capacity or it can cause premature battery failure over a short amount of time. I recommend installing a digital voltage display to your house battery if you only use an isolator as your charging strategy. Pictures of both on my Facebook page VanGo Adventures.
+VanGo Adventures Simple battery isolators split the power evenly all the time. There are some smart ones that charge the starter battery first. A fully drained battery is 10.8 volts, but the safest you should bring one down to is 11.6. I was referring to the 11.6 volts, as my power inverter shuts off at that point and I want my battery to last. I use the inverter for a volt meter, but I'd love to have one that I can see easily all the time. I've tested my isolator, and it charged my battery from 11.9 to 12.6 (after waiting with no load for 20 minutes for surface charge to dissipate) after a 15 minute drive. I have 0 gauge wires and a 105 amp alternator though. Your alternator is probably an 80 amp isn't it?
+Into The Mystery 13 You may be correct on my alternator. The solar guys on a Facebook group that I belong to tell me that the true state of your battery charge is the voltage readout of your battery at least one hour after you stop charging it. You definitely have a beefed up alternator and the 0 guage wire does help deliver the amps to your battery at a faster rate. I thought my 4 guage wire would be overkill but you definitely took it to another level.
Great topic, I am gaining quite a bit of knowledge by the comments and your responses. I live in the NE and don't believe that solar would do the trick as the only means to charge aux batteries. Take care and be safe. jman
Excellent video. I have a van with solar panels that I use to charge a battery bank for stuff in my van. it has been working great and i just bough a used battery issolator for a great price and what is extra good about it is that can charge multiple battery banks. I also have an electric scooter on a bike hitch on the back of my van and i take out the batteries. Before I hook up the isolator to my alternator, I was wondering if anyone has ever rigged an isolator up to a solar panel charging controller to charge multiple battery banks with the solar panels. So instead of hooking the isolator up to the alternator maybe there is a way to have it both the existing battery banks and the batteries for my scooter in a seperate bank charingin at the same time through the solar with the isolator. To get everything to charge from the sun is so green. I know it might take a long time. but it is all 12 volt battery banks so in theory it should work. If that works I could also install quck disconnect wires to use the isolator either with the alternator or with the solar by just switching what i connect it to, so I could also use my engine to charge by banks. I just do not see anyone else using an isolator with solar and wondering if it can be done. Or do isolators drain or loose energy in their operation that make them not that desirable with solar? any thoughts?
Hey sweetie I'd like to be able to run a 700 watt microwave for about five minutes a day ,how big a solar panel would you think I need ? this stuff is really confusing to me and I will be in California Arizona area!
+Debrajoy It really depends on a lot of things like how efficient your solar setup is (panel and controller), how big your battery bank is, what other loads you have (lights, fans, charging laptops/phones/cameras, water pump, ect), how efficient your power inverter is, ect. For just the microwave, probably a 100 watt mono panel would be enough. Once you start adding other things in you need to move up. Make sure your battery never drops bellow 11.6 volts. I hope this helps, sorry I can't give you a more direct answer, there is really a lot to it
I built my van to go on a road trip, in hindsight I'd have been fine with a properly installed battery isolator without the trouble of mounting solar, putting a hole in the roof for the wires and the added cost. For a road trip, battery isolator is fine.. lesson learned
Hey good info! I'm a fellow van dweller, I have a Ford E-250 coachman hightop with (3) 100 watt solar panels connected to 6 Trojan deep cycle batteries, I've been staying in the great lakes area where the sun likes to hide most of the year so power consumption must be in check at all times so an isolator would be great! however I heard that that can mess with your alternator plus would it be efficient enough for all 6 batteries?
+James Harris how does it mess with your alternator? As long as your voltage regulator is functioning properly, and places before the isolator I don't think you'll have any issues. It will definitely help a lot! Might take a little longer to charge depending on. How many amp hours
Very informative; Question- In the future I plan to keep all in-camper van appliances and what not by just using solar, Do you think this is possible with a good-enough solar panel/battery? Excuse my ignorance on the whole subject yet again. x-x Happy travels! :)
+Ramiz Hossain I can tell you that a 100 watt solar panel and single 93 amp hour battery are not enough to run a very efficient dc fridge and roof vent all night and have the battery fully charged at noon the next day on an overcast day. My battery was only at 12.2 volts, which is only about 60% of full charge capacity. I need at least double the solar for my set to work with just the roof fan and efficient fridge. If I were to add more to the mix I'd need more battery for sure. So I think the formula is at least 200 watts of solar to 100 ah battery. Remember though, if you park under a tree forget about the solar doing anything. What appliances to you have?
Good compare. I go for both options, and for shorepower if I'm able to get one. There is another way I'm thinking about. Because of the Weather over here ( I live in Germany, and the Winter isnt that nice over here) me was having a look to a mobile hydrogen cell. It works with methanol and bring constant 70 Watt into the System. No noise and no emission. Only Problem is the price... Around 6000€ for the unit. Stay safe.
Can you get one full day's charge out of a ten minute drive? I'd like to hear more about how to solve the problem when the sun heats up your car, so it's too hot to live in, as well as the problem of condensation....so youre living in dampness all the time - how do you solve that - also, how you heat the van, if you're living in a cold climate. Next video, if you don't already have one addressing these subjects?
How do you wire the isolator into the solar battery bank? Do you just connect it with the house battery terminals and let the charge controller do the rest? What is stopping the isolator from overcharging the house batteries while you drive?
Joshua Cohen, I kinda had to figure this out myself and have already installed the isolator into my system without issue. My understanding is that when vehicle is on and the isolator is engaged the solar charge controller and the alternator only see 1 power source at 12v between all your batteries. It won't matter how many batteries are in your bank as long as they are connected in parallel they sort of act as 1 big one. The system will only try to charge everything back to 12v.
I'm beginning to brainstorm power options for my most recent van build. currently nothing. I will be installing an asolator for sure. But I'm wondering about extended boon docking. Do you think it would be better convenience/econonimical wise... To have a large capacity battery bank with small solar panel and run engine when needed. Or have a small battey bank with multiple larger solar panels that will charge faster?
Its hard to say for sure as of right now. Definitely a roof fan and lights. charging laptop, Probably not a fridge. Definitely no microwave. Id say probably 3-4 days parked before driving somewhere else
A savy shopper can get a good quality 100w solar panel for $120, and a battery isolator that will do the job well enough for under $30. I will be installing mine next week. A good battery will run $150+...
+Tryor Die True. It cost money for the solar controller though. I got a high amp isolator so I dont have to upgrade later, and 0 gauge wire for the same reason, which both cost a little extra.
+Into The Mystery 13 I went with a PWM controller. As I understand they have more voltage drop but are 10 times more reliable than electronic. I went with a 10amp, which I will have to upgrade if I get another panel, but thats not happening in the foreseeable future for me. I'm in balls deep as it is... lol. It was $25.
There are only a couple different manufactures, so cheap with a good warranty. Walmart seems to have the best warranty. That or Costco. I went lithium a couple years ago and am not going back
+Helder Neves the solar controller goes to the battery, the isolator goes to the battery. The only place they connect is the battery and both monitor each other separately
But if you have 2 batteries (start+aux), you want the solar to be charging also the start battery. Would it be possible to connect both the alternator and the solar controller to the Isolator?
I have 200 watt panels on my shed, with four 6 volt batteries bank made into 12 volt. also a 150 watt solar panel on top of my homemade camper with two twelve volt batteries . I want to connect them together while at home. do you think I would need a batter isolator for these 2 battery banks. see my camper at mac camper136
yes and I feel your really a pioneer in alot that your doing here ,the battery isolator is a great thing and you've open my eyes ,however with money at your disposal could you there fore design an ultimate rig
1.4x4 vehicle check -diesel or gasoline 2.all DC system correct !? 3.inverters are bad too many issues ?? 4.pemmic non perishable food system 5.water system clean... 6.small option shore power assimilation 7.AIR CONDITION (!) 8. $TEALTH .DEFENSE... REALLY LIKE YOUR CHANNEL BROTHER KEEP IT UP!
2-100 watt renogy solar panels, 3 deep cycle batteries and a battery isolator on my 94 chevy g20 van. Battery isolator works great when you live up north where the sun hides most of the winter.:-)
Great video! Most van dwellers do need to have a dual strategy for creating and storing electricity. The battery isolator will charge the starting battery first before switching to charge the deep cycle house battery. Starting batteries are made to pack a lot of amps used over a very short time (cranking the engine). Deep cycle batteries are created to store lots of amps and then release them over a longer period of time ie when the sun goes down. My experience has been that it can take several hours of driving to fully charge a depleted deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries should not be drained below fifty percent of their storage capacity or it can cause premature battery failure over a short amount of time. I recommend installing a digital voltage display to your house battery if you only use an isolator as your charging strategy. Pictures of both on my Facebook page VanGo Adventures.
+VanGo Adventures Simple battery isolators split the power evenly all the time. There are some smart ones that charge the starter battery first. A fully drained battery is 10.8 volts, but the safest you should bring one down to is 11.6. I was referring to the 11.6 volts, as my power inverter shuts off at that point and I want my battery to last. I use the inverter for a volt meter, but I'd love to have one that I can see easily all the time. I've tested my isolator, and it charged my battery from 11.9 to 12.6 (after waiting with no load for 20 minutes for surface charge to dissipate) after a 15 minute drive. I have 0 gauge wires and a 105 amp alternator though. Your alternator is probably an 80 amp isn't it?
+Into The Mystery 13 You may be correct on my alternator. The solar guys on a Facebook group that I belong to tell me that the true state of your battery charge is the voltage readout of your battery at least one hour after you stop charging it. You definitely have a beefed up alternator and the 0 guage wire does help deliver the amps to your battery at a faster rate. I thought my 4 guage wire would be overkill but you definitely took it to another level.
Great topic, I am gaining quite a bit of knowledge by the comments and your responses. I live in the NE and don't believe that solar would do the trick as the only means to charge aux batteries. Take care and be safe. jman
Excellent video. I have a van with solar panels that I use to charge a battery bank for stuff in my van. it has been working great and i just bough a used battery issolator for a great price and what is extra good about it is that can charge multiple battery banks. I also have an electric scooter on a bike hitch on the back of my van and i take out the batteries. Before I hook up the isolator to my alternator, I was wondering if anyone has ever rigged an isolator up to a solar panel charging controller to charge multiple battery banks with the solar panels. So instead of hooking the isolator up to the alternator maybe there is a way to have it both the existing battery banks and the batteries for my scooter in a seperate bank charingin at the same time through the solar with the isolator. To get everything to charge from the sun is so green. I know it might take a long time. but it is all 12 volt battery banks so in theory it should work. If that works I could also install quck disconnect wires to use the isolator either with the alternator or with the solar by just switching what i connect it to, so I could also use my engine to charge by banks. I just do not see anyone else using an isolator with solar and wondering if it can be done. Or do isolators drain or loose energy in their operation that make them not that desirable with solar? any thoughts?
..going back into your videos to get that battery knowledge! HAHA
Great info thanks! I keep seeing that subscriber count rise! Keep it up
+cody spurgeon Thanks man, yeah almost 2k!
hey bro, how's it going? i enjoy all the videos.... my question is, what battery isolator do you recommend? Is it the Stinger if so, which model
Hey
sweetie I'd like to be able to run a 700 watt microwave for about five minutes a day ,how big a solar panel would you think I need ? this stuff is really confusing to me and I will be in California Arizona area!
+Debrajoy It really depends on a lot of things like how efficient your solar setup is (panel and controller), how big your battery bank is, what other loads you have (lights, fans, charging laptops/phones/cameras, water pump, ect), how efficient your power inverter is, ect. For just the microwave, probably a 100 watt mono panel would be enough. Once you start adding other things in you need to move up. Make sure your battery never drops bellow 11.6 volts. I hope this helps, sorry I can't give you a more direct answer, there is really a lot to it
I built my van to go on a road trip, in hindsight I'd have been fine with a properly installed battery isolator without the trouble of mounting solar, putting a hole in the roof for the wires and the added cost. For a road trip, battery isolator is fine.. lesson learned
+Bayward I learned the same lesson.
Hey good info! I'm a fellow van dweller, I have a Ford E-250 coachman hightop with (3) 100 watt solar panels connected to 6 Trojan deep cycle batteries, I've been staying in the great lakes area where the sun likes to hide most of the year so power consumption must be in check at all times so an isolator would be great! however I heard that that can mess with your alternator plus would it be efficient enough for all 6 batteries?
+James Harris how does it mess with your alternator? As long as your voltage regulator is functioning properly, and places before the isolator I don't think you'll have any issues. It will definitely help a lot! Might take a little longer to charge depending on. How many amp hours
Very informative; Question- In the future I plan to keep all in-camper van appliances and what not by just using solar, Do you think this is possible with a good-enough solar panel/battery? Excuse my ignorance on the whole subject yet again. x-x
Happy travels!
:)
+Ramiz Hossain I can tell you that a 100 watt solar panel and single 93 amp hour battery are not enough to run a very efficient dc fridge and roof vent all night and have the battery fully charged at noon the next day on an overcast day. My battery was only at 12.2 volts, which is only about 60% of full charge capacity. I need at least double the solar for my set to work with just the roof fan and efficient fridge. If I were to add more to the mix I'd need more battery for sure. So I think the formula is at least 200 watts of solar to 100 ah battery. Remember though, if you park under a tree forget about the solar doing anything. What appliances to you have?
Good compare. I go for both options, and for shorepower if I'm able to get one. There is another way I'm thinking about. Because of the Weather over here ( I live in Germany, and the Winter isnt that nice over here) me was having a look to a mobile hydrogen cell. It works with methanol and bring constant 70 Watt into the System. No noise and no emission. Only Problem is the price... Around 6000€ for the unit. Stay safe.
+Stephan Kluge Mobile hydrogen cell, wow I didn't even know that that was an option. Thanks!
Can you get one full day's charge out of a ten minute drive? I'd like to hear more about how to solve the problem when the sun heats up your car, so it's too hot to live in, as well as the problem of condensation....so youre living in dampness all the time - how do you solve that - also, how you heat the van, if you're living in a cold climate. Next video, if you don't already have one addressing these subjects?
Diggin' the channel, man!
+Misc.2 Thanks!!
Can you use the alternator and the solar panel at the same time? Will the alternator bur out the controller?
How do you wire the isolator into the solar battery bank? Do you just connect it with the house battery terminals and let the charge controller do the rest? What is stopping the isolator from overcharging the house batteries while you drive?
I was wondering the same thing.
Joshua Cohen, I kinda had to figure this out myself and have already installed the isolator into my system without issue. My understanding is that when vehicle is on and the isolator is engaged the solar charge controller and the alternator only see 1 power source at 12v between all your batteries. It won't matter how many batteries are in your bank as long as they are connected in parallel they sort of act as 1 big one. The system will only try to charge everything back to 12v.
I'm beginning to brainstorm power options for my most recent van build. currently nothing. I will be installing an asolator for sure. But I'm wondering about extended boon docking. Do you think it would be better convenience/econonimical wise... To have a large capacity battery bank with small solar panel and run engine when needed. Or have a small battey bank with multiple larger solar panels that will charge faster?
+Bill and Karen What loads are you planning on running? Fridge? Led lights? roof fan? microwave? tv? laptop?
Its hard to say for sure as of right now. Definitely a roof fan and lights. charging laptop, Probably not a fridge. Definitely no microwave. Id say probably 3-4 days parked before driving somewhere else
How do you feel about a Continuous Solenoid ?
A savy shopper can get a good quality 100w solar panel for $120, and a battery isolator that will do the job well enough for under $30. I will be installing mine next week. A good battery will run $150+...
+Tryor Die True. It cost money for the solar controller though. I got a high amp isolator so I dont have to upgrade later, and 0 gauge wire for the same reason, which both cost a little extra.
+Into The Mystery 13 I went with a PWM controller. As I understand they have more voltage drop but are 10 times more reliable than electronic. I went with a 10amp, which I will have to upgrade if I get another panel, but thats not happening in the foreseeable future for me. I'm in balls deep as it is... lol. It was $25.
can you hook up one of those Battery Isolators to like a go kart with one of those little Harbor Freight go kart motors
+Frosty Thesnowman If you hook up an alternator to the little motor hell yeah. Thats a great idea for a cheap homemade generator
Can both be charging at the same time or do you have to shut one off?
+Bob Runde both can charge at the same time
Thanks
Into The Mystery 13, On your system, do you connect both the alternator and the solar charge controller to the Isolator?
Hi brother, what is the best AGM deep cycle battery you recommend?
There are only a couple different manufactures, so cheap with a good warranty. Walmart seems to have the best warranty. That or Costco. I went lithium a couple years ago and am not going back
Into The Mystery ⓭ thank you for your help.
if you use BOTH, how do you connect the MPPT the Isolator?
+Helder Neves the solar controller goes to the battery, the isolator goes to the battery. The only place they connect is the battery and both monitor each other separately
But if you have 2 batteries (start+aux), you want the solar to be charging also the start battery. Would it be possible to connect both the alternator and the solar controller to the Isolator?
I have 200 watt panels on my shed, with four 6 volt batteries bank made into 12 volt. also a 150 watt solar panel on top of my homemade camper with two twelve volt batteries . I want to connect them together while at home. do you think I would need a batter isolator for these 2 battery banks. see my camper at mac camper136
+Doug Mac I am not the right person to answer this question
thanks for the links! :)
is it thursday yet? LOL jk
Dat T-Shirt Doe :P
+Far From Populated Haha my dad bought it for me!
which solar panels di du get
+Jay 1 renogy 100 watt mono with controller from amazon
+Jay 1 renogy 100 watt mono with controller from amazon
how many batteries can be charged with one isolator
+Justin Stehlin as many as your alternator can handle.
+Justin Stehlin the more batteries you add the slower they will charge.
if you are in england like me, forget solar panels haha!
just get both
+MuffinStab i agree!
wish someone would just figure out the perfect setup so I can copy it
+Kevin Bower there is no such thing, only compromise, and what works for one person might not for another.
yes and I feel your really a pioneer in alot that your doing here ,the battery isolator is a great thing and you've open my eyes ,however with money at your disposal could you there fore design an ultimate rig
1.4x4 vehicle check
-diesel or gasoline
2.all DC system correct !?
3.inverters are bad too many issues ??
4.pemmic non perishable food system
5.water system clean...
6.small option shore power assimilation
7.AIR CONDITION (!)
8. $TEALTH .DEFENSE...
REALLY LIKE YOUR CHANNEL BROTHER KEEP IT UP!
did you find a job?
+Donald Spicer I got some odd jobs today. It's hard to get hired on a Sunday.