Shaping Bespoke Shoe Lasts by Hand & Machine
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- The third installment of our Bespoke Shoe series shows how the wooden shoe lasts are constructed: gentl.mn/creating-last-bespok...
#last #bespokeshoes #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Magenta Pink, Grey Mottled Knit Tie: gentl.mn/magenta-pink-grey-mo...
→ Shadow Stripe Socks Burgundy & Light Gray: gentl.mn/burgundy-light-grey-...
SEE THE FULL BESPOKE SHOE SERIES PLAYLIST HERE:
→ • Bespoke Shoes, Start t...
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ Designing Bespoke Shoes: gentl.mn/bespeaking-bespoke-s...
→ Custom Suit Review 10 Years Later: gentl.mn/custom-suit-10-years...
Bespoke Shoes Created by Amara Hark Weber
Visit Amara at harkweberstudio.com
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Scriptwriter: E.J. Daniels
→ Camera & Editing: Chris Dummer
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ Kazuma Nishimura
Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel!
→ gentl.mn/youtube
Become a part of the Gentleman's Gazette community - support us on Patreon!
gentl.mn/patron
________________________________________________________________________
Gentleman's Gazette
gentl.mn/GGwebsite-homepage2
gentl.mn/FBclassic-accessories2
Facebook: / gentlemansgazette
Gentleman Quiz: gentl.mn/gentleman-quiz-signup1
00:00 Creating Your Last Introduction
n our third installment of my bespoke shoe journey with St. Paul Minnesota shoemaker Amara Hark Weber, we discuss a very important step of the bespoke shoemaking process, where you will, at last, know what a last is and how it is made.
00:32 What Is A Last?
Basically, it’s the thing you build a shoe around. It is modeled after the human foot, not an exact copy. For a ready-to-wear-made factory shoe, typically, the lasts are made out of plastic. It also comes in many different sizes, so you can just make the shoes.
It’s important to keep in mind that different shoemakers can make lasts in very different ways. We’ll take a look at how Amara Hark Weber did her last and see what we can learn about lasts from her.
02:42 Sourcing the Last Materials
First of all, you have to source the last material. Typically, it’s made of wood, but what kind of wood depends on the companies you work with. A last has to be a sturdy thing. Why? Well, it’ll get wet, see nails, get hammered on, get sanded, and it just has to stand the test of time. It’s very important for a last to maintain its shape. Otherwise, the final shoe will be compromised.
04:12 Modifying a Blank Last
Amara uses blanks because it’s much more cost-efficient. She used to buy a vintage shoe last, would modify them, then have new base lasts made based on the desired look she wanted.
08:29 Shaving Down a Built-Up Last
After the leather has dried, it has to be cut and then shaved off to be part of the last. Typically, there are two ways to do that. One is to use a rasp and shave it down by hand, the other is to use a machine. I’m sure your shoemaker will have their own preference. Amara prefers the machine because it is faster and always very precise for her. Specifically, Amara uses a finishing machine that has a grinder with sandpaper on it.
11:37 Getting to Work
Once everything is in place, it’s time to start shaping the last and the leather on the finishing machine. The main job here is to get the last to a point where the fit is good.
She constantly uses her measurements, the pedograph, and her notes to see if what she’s doing aligns with the foot. She can take all the sensitivities, your bones, your sensitive areas into consideration that way. Also, if you have a slim and bony foot, she may make different decisions on the last design as if you have more of a fleshy foot.
As she continues to work, Amara makes it look very easy, but it requires a lot of concentration and experience, and skill. Amara largely taught herself last making, so it’s a mix of intuition, trial and error, and influx from other shoemakers and last makers.
Amara paid particular attention to the joint and the shape and rise of the arch. She does that because those are some of the most important for comfort and fit. Frankly, she was double checking, triple checking, and it took quite a while, but she just wanted to get it 100% right.
16:13 After Creating The Lasts, Shoemaking Begins
Once the last is done, the shoemaking process can start; except some shoemakers start with a trial shoe, others work right away on the real thing. Of course, there are pros and cons to both. - Навчання та стиль
My grandfather was a fourth generation Irish shoe maker. He rose through the ranks of manufacturing and eventually retired as the manufacturing vice president for the Floreshiem Shoe Company (retiring in 1962). He took me on many tours of the factory in downtown Chicago. He always stopped the tour to show and explain shoe lasts. He claimed it was the reason for Floreshiem's success as a shoe manufacturer.
Early in his career he was dispatched to wealthy clients homes or businesses to cast their feet and oversee the making of lasts that were specific to individual customers. I remember him talking about making lasts for Henry Ford, Thomas Edison, and Harvey Firestone. He took great pride in making shoes for Presidents and leaders of industry. His said his greatest achievement was overseeing the manufacture of 100's of thousands of shoes for the military in WWII.
After WWII ended he was the President of the Shoe Manufacturers Association and he lead a drive to ship donated shoe manufacturing equipment to German shoe manufacturers to replace equipment destroyed or looted by the Russians. As a child in the 1960's I remember traveling to Germany and visiting the Salamander Shoe Company. They treated us like royalty and drove us around in a big black Mercedes limousine. A small street behind the factory was actually named after my grandfather to his amusement.
Incredible! You must be exceptionally proud of him.
@@LyonTheGreat I was the only kid in my high school that wore Florshiem Imperial Shoes. Some of the best shoes ever made. My father started his own company and was a supplier to many other major shoe companies including Red Wing Shoes. I picked a different path and now I wear Edmond Allen shoes.
It's beautiful to see shoes made! Especially by a Wonderful crafted Woman! Superb! Bravo Amara!
I have 3 pairs of my Nana’s bespoke pumps. I used to wear them very often. They are works of art.
I remember one time I was with my father in front of a shoe store, and he told me how before most shoes were bespoke, but since that was more expensive than the way shoes are made nowadays, I've always wanted a pair of bespoke shoes ever since, but since I live in a rather small city, I haven't heard of anyone that makes bespoke shoes here
Back in the OLD days when Johnston and Murphy were good shoes, they had Lasts of my father's 11-1/2 AA foot!!!
I have fond memories as a child of him polishing and caring for his shoes every Sunday night. He did his shoes for the next week to go with the various suits he would wear. He probably had 20 pairs of custom-made shoes.
Before he went into the Nursing home at 90, he was sad that we had to throw them out because: "they won't fit anyone" !!
Some of those shoes were at least 50 years old and they looked just as beautiful as the day they were unboxed.
I think it is always funny when real life syncs up with these videos. While I was in an antique store looking for a wooden shoe shine kit, I came across some lasts. Being the first time seeing one in real life I excitedly told my shopping companion all about it. Although she liked my enthusiasm, she was definitely not as excited as I was on the discovery. Thank you for making these videos!
Thank you for taking us deep into your bespoke shoe journey. I have said it before, these videos are quite enjoyable.
I like to use Bondo to build my lasts. I used to use leather, but it was slow and not so accurate. As with glue, working with Bondo can be harmful indoors, so adequate ventilation and face cover is imperative. This video is excellent.
Ha, ha, Mrs’s Gazette said “wash your own darn shirts!” Lol, good for her!
Love the channel!!
So much interesting. . ..! Great work, bravo! You really know, understand, and love each and every step on shoemaking, my passion. Thanks 😉👍🏼
Hello Gentleman’s Gazette I love you videos. I just want to say I have a 50% chance that I actually came up with a new way to tie a tie! It’s uneven and not so complicated. How can you guys confirm it for me?
The little chamber is called a fume Hood
Such a great video 🙏
Any idea where I can get the almond head bespoke shoe last?
Raphael, why did you choose to not put toe taps on your shoes? Great vids!
Because they damage the wooden floors in my home
Raphael, any bespoke shoemaker you can recommend in Germany?
How do you match the shape of the left and right wooden lasts?
Yes, one of my feet is bigger than my other one, I've actually measured them, I need a little arch support though.
Wow if I was there I would definitely have my shoes made in her workshop
Hello, may i ask why are your prices on fort belvediere so expensive, even for ties its like 100 euros or more
What's the cost of it
anyone else pause at 4:48?
This guy: talk to your shoe maker
My shoe maker: some underpaid guy in a third world country
Good pun about marriage.
7:16 CORK😆
Because of economic crisis and the rate of unemployment, now is the best time to invest and make money💯
Great skills and knowledge about the market. I enjoy full profits and easy withdrawal with no complains, trade with the best.
All you need as a beginner to make good profit from cryptocurrency is a professional trader who will always notify you when to BUY/SELL else you may make losses.
I was big on gold and silver but a few months ago I discovered Bitcoin and Ethereum. Listening to lots of stuff from Mr Dwayne has been really helpful in my journey.
Like the analysts, I am positive about bitcoin. am sure that now it will begin to develop very rapidly. It is still difficult to give an accurate forecast. But I prefer to trade my bitcoin and accumulate more.
I have traded with a lot of individuals but I have never come across anyone as good as Mr Dwayne, just by applying his strategies, I now trade independently, he is the best I'd advise any novice in investing to trade with him
Can you do a video for halloween on halloween costumes? Such as Gomez from Addams family or notorious gangsters like Dillinger etc etc etc? Many Danke(s)
They already had one released earlier but a party two is welcome
Third
We want an Arabic channel 🇲🇦
first
Your last shoes sounds a little bit dramatic - wouldn't want to be in those shoes.
I hope you're joking lol