This video helped me a lot! Our AC stopped blowing cold air and called a company to come look at it. Long story short, they said I needed a new unit. Not really believing what they had told me, looked up some information and UA-cam videos and it ended up being a bad capacitor which I was able to get from Amazon the next day. Our unit had been running for 5 hours with new capacitor, blowing cold air but it was very little flow and not cooling the house. Found this video and figured out the service guy had swapped the speed to Medium Low. Changed it back to HIGH speed and it has already made a difference in 10 minutes!!!
Yea, HVAC guys will almost always try to replace your unit when it could be an easy fix. Because A: they sell you new unit and install, and B: They will gladly remove and "dispose of" your old one. Meaning, they will fix it and sell it as a used unit. Win win for them, loss loss for you. Car mechanics, HVAC guys, so many crooks out there. Having the ability to think and learn is essential to not getting ripped off. So few people possess this ability now, and it's so easy for companies to rip people off, it becomes their standard way of doing business.
@starbattles1 I have been a part of and around different different hvac contractors my entire life, and I have never once seen a company try to sell and install a used system. Not saying it doesn't happen, but it's definitely not a common thing.
Thanks man, told me exactly what I needed to know. I have furnace only, no A/C. But like yours the fan only speed was on the high wire, and heat was on medium speed wire. Mine has trigger wires to move, instead of the fan wires. So first thing I did was pull the trigger wire off the med speed wire, and flipped the breaker. No fan came on. Plugged that back, and removed trigger wire off the high speed, and fan came on. So it was set on med speed for heat. I put the heat trigger on high, and fan only trigger on low. Put the cover on, flipped breaker, everything working as should. Went to thermostat and flipped it to fan only and the fan turned noticeably slower being on low speed. My board has the 3 speed wires from fan each plugged in terminals, and next to each is high med or low. Then the trigger wires connect next to the one you desire. 2 Trigger wires. One powers on when fan only, other powers on for heat. It was pretty simple. Still feel nervous reaching in with plyers, even though the breaker is off. BE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THE CAPASITER TERMANALS. IT STILL CONTAINS POWER, AND WILL BE WORSE THEN JUST TOUCHING A POWER WIRE. Years ago I asked my self....."self, what would happen if I touched the 2 capacitor terminals with a screw driver to see if it has power" I could have killed my self. Sounded like a shot gun blast, and launched that screw driver from my hand like a rocket. Luckily not in my direction, or I'd have been impaled, maybe dead. If that had been a finger, I probably would have lost that finger. I been shocked by 110 and 220. OMG 220 will knock you on your arss. Just don't take the chances I did when I was younger. I had to fk around and find out, don't do what I did.
Nice work there! And good advice too. Yeah always gotta watch for capacitors. The only large one in there that I know of is the run capacitor for the fan motor. It "shouldn't" have any charge left in it when power is removed but yeah you always want to be careful when you work on these things. Hopefully I covered all the necessary safety advice in it. Luckily 220 has never gotten me, but 110 has before. Dumb kid in me "Hey what's it like between those two prongs?" Luckily I never made THAT mistake again.
Excellent! 80kBTU Carrier 58WAV045 Weathermaker 8000 has only 4 heat discharge vent registers, since it only heats basement of a small house. Blower discharge was a too high/fast of air volume and very noisy; sounded like some huge shop fan on ultra-high! Swapped blue (Medium low lead, now connected to a SPARE terminal) with the Red (Low) lead per your info, and it slowed blower fan enough to quiet things nicely. Still blows fast and not too awfully hot at all, so it's good now. System has no A/C, so no worries about Cool terminal. It was great to learn the simple (now obvious) fact that the SPARE terminals are merely for storing unused blower lead connectors. This really took the confusion out of things! Big thanks! Wish all instructions were this good, clearly explained, well spoken, articulate, understandable. Appreciate it very much!
Sorry I missed this! Glad I could help ya. A lot don't seem to realize that details are the key! I always like to give as much info as I can where I feel it can on;y be helpful.
Apparently when I called my hvac guy out this summer, he must have switched these. Glad I watched this video before calling him again, this probably saved me a couple hundred dollars
Thank you for this video. We had a new circuit board installed this winter. My AC has frozen up every time since. After watching this I noticed the tech had wired it incorrectly (low speed cold). Followed your explanation and it works perfectly. Thanks for taking the time.
I was searching for a way to purposely lower the fan speed on AC because the fan is so loud. Unit is on main living floor in a closet. Sounds like that may not be a good idea. Someone else is commenting below that lowering it is better for removing humidity.
Perfect makes total sense, our hvac person said he switched the fan speed to high i had no idea what he meants, he swapped heat and cool wires since they think some sensor is tripping with a 3-3 error. I got the sensor and put the wires back. I actually went up one wire on the heat to get a little more flow thru our merv 5 filter.
With psc motors speed would be number of wires minus three (white/ neutral, and two browns for capacitor) Typically, they will be 3, 4, or 5 speed. I travelled nine states with an outfit that was founded in 1867 and patented their own large (can crawl under, inside, and on top of large) units . Worked on large industrial and institutional equipment. Some of the induced draft fan BEARINGS weighed more than these little residential furnaces. Get used to PCM - that's the way the gooberment is forcing everything. * EVERY UNIT LISTS A TEMPERATURE RISE for heating. ALWAYS check your delta T in heating and cooling. Make sure supply registers and returns are open. Then check discharge air temps compared to return. With cooling on one should expect 18 to 22 degree drop. Heating temp rise is always listed on unit tag. ALWAYS check ACTUAL temperature rise. If you adjust it too low you can cause high temp short cycling or some units have thermal fuses like on a clothes dryer.. When checking cooling, I prefer to clean condenser coils. It's amazing how far head pressures will drop when coils are dirty. Head pressure and suction pressure are correlated. Cleaner outdoor coil equals lower head pressure which equals lower head temperature which equals lower suction temperature and pressure which equals the ability to absorb more heat and provide more efficient cooling.
Hey just want to say THANKS FOR SAVING MY CHRISTMAS. Had a new HVAC system put in and the blower was so strong it was creating a crazy vacuum and ultimately shutting down my furnace due to hi temp on my BTS (burner thermal sensor)
Low speed is better for AC. If you get a faster speed it might cool you faster but you are leaving the humidity too high in the conditioned space. Low and longer is much more comfortable.
@@thechuckster1971 - yes, I will be trying this on my unit very soon. I have a single stage unit and the CFM is much higher than my ducts can actually handle so I'm going to slow it all down to try to remove more humidity without freezing up the coils.
You’re the man. This helped me immensely as the fan was blowing too high when heating and was waking us up at night. I can still hear the furnace too clearly when we are in the living room, but I think that’s probably because the return air duct is way too big and it’s like an open hallway directly down to the furnace. I’m hoping we can reduce the size of it. Any tips?
regarding the single speed fan blower noise - I experienced the same thing with my two furnace units. Even after installing additional return vents to reduce the overall air pressure coming from the noisy return vents I tried an old trick that some of the A/C guys told me about. buy a pair of sheet metal pliers (for bending sheet metal) and straighten out the fins on the air vent grill. If you want to run a test ahead of this change - remove the air vent(s) altogether and notice the reduction in noise. If this works - then proceed to straightening out the louvers on the vent and return it back into place. It would appear for my situation the noise was actually air turbulence. I'm still tuning my blower speeds for our units and comfort, but even at the highest speeds the noise levels have dropped dramatically.
Thank you @@rgloeschner! That is helpful info. What I also recently learned is I think there was not enough return air flow and it sounds like that was one of your issues as well. We just re did our floors and we re routed the return air vent elsewhere, so I’m hoping that helps a lot.
My tonnage is actually 0.5 more then what the prior one was and now we are having humidity issues. The air handler fan speed is much more then the old one. I am so upset with my mistake but I am calling them Monday and beg them to resolve the issue. I think lowering the fan speed can help reduce the humidity. It may get down to the set temperature quicker but it doesn’t feel the temperature on the thermostat with higher and elevated humidity.
I know this is not a typical situation but I think my friends single stage blower motor is set to high for the air conditioning.It is so loud from all the vents when they are all open completely and with the correct filter.I also feel as if it is blowing too hard and not removing enough humidity because the evaporator coil is not getting cold enough.
My Goodman has the black high speed wire running to both the heat and AC, there's a little splitter and a jumper on it. The other lower 3 speeds are either capped off or landed on the board on a dead spot.
I like your video, especially when you speak of the speed of the the fan when it is on in "on" mode (4:27 minute mark). Can this be done on a single stage unit. We have a Heil brand, 4 ton unit. The only time the fan runs "HI" is when the heat or A/C is running. When I have it in "FAN" mode alone, the air barely moves. Can you help us out?🙏😊 My husband is an HVAC fabricator/installer and just needs a little guidance in how to crank up the speed of the fan when solely in FAN mode. We used to have a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 (lasted 22 yrs) that ran high when in fan mode. Doesn't Heil do that? It's a single stage unit...should it matter? Thanks!!!😊
While it may seem inconvenient, I would recommend removing those terminals with a flat blade screwdriver. Using a pair of pliers can lead to a misshapen connector, and ultimately a bad or loose connection. So you use the screwdriver to pry the terminal off. Installing the terminal can be done with pliers. Just a little trick I learned...the hard way.
I actually had thought of that step at one point. Only problem is, there is literally no way to fit a flat blade on the connectors for the relay. With the exception of this example, it's really only a one, maybe two-time deal, so the pliers won't hurt anything.
We installed a new Lennox system, and the heater setting is definitely LOUD. The system is working by creating a “feels like” temp that factors humidity. It runs for about 1 or 2 minutes, but operates more frequently on this setting. But the blower sounds loud and powerful. Would the high air flow cause more wear over time on the blower? The AC setting is very quiet and also does not operate for long time periods.
In my booklet for the G26 1. when the thermostat is set to fan on the blower will run at low speed (red). 2. when there is cooling the blower will run on cooling (blk).3. when on heating it will run at the heating speed yellow, blue or brown.
You suggested never turning the fan speed down on the AC but our unit pumps out air through the vents at tornadic speed, it's super loud. Any suggestions?
Pro tip: Measure the resistance between common and the colored wires the one with the lowest resistance is high speed the one with the highest resistance is the slowest speed.
Hey Sharkie, Great video! Question. We run our fan on almost always, because we like the air flow in our home to be continuous during the summer with A/C on and after the system has hit the the set temperature, there is a brief switch to “fan only” but the fan only setting is very high and loud, much higher and louder than the AC. Since it’s based on the heater blower setting, what is the downside to, reducing the heater blower speed setting to something more desirable in fan only mode. This is a gas fired furnace. This is in an ADU with approx 800 sq ft. Is it possible that a reducing the fan speed on the heat side that the heat exchanger could be damaged because of the lack of airflow across the heat exchanger? Thank you for your answer. I appreciate your help. 13 year old York single stage.
Is there any way to adjust the blower speed when I turn only the blower fan on? My system blower is on high when it kicks on for heat or cool. But if I turn the fan to the on position instead of auto it operates at a very low speed.
I have to check mine but could have 1, 2 or 4 speed settings. I wanted to purposely lower the AC fan speed because it is SO loud. It's on main living floor in a closet. Guess it's not a good idea due to possible freeze up :( Looks like you can't have both on low or both on high if you only have two settings anyway.
My AC fan speed is on high and it makes vibrating noise when it runs. Do you think I can get away with running it on medium-high? I've tested it and the vibration goes away on that setting. I live in the Midwest and our HVAC doesn't see constant heavy use. I've already had the company come out to try and fix the vibration but they can't figure out what it is. Guy says it's just gotta be some part of the cabinet just loosened up over the years. This was a fantastic video by the way. Thank you.
It's possible maybe your blower motor housing is loose. I would check that first. If you try medium-high, make sure you don't see any icing on your AC line.
@@Sharkie626 remembered that my brother in law is an HVAC tech and I asked him. He said Med, Med-Hi, and High are all acceptable AC on my unit. My unit is literally whisper quiet now.
The vibration could have something to do with fan balance. If it is an older system the fan could be dirty and this could cause it to vibrate more due to the dirt buildup. There is also the possibility of a foreign object got sucked into your fan. No I don't mean your Russian girlfriend haha. Actually this situation did happen to me but it was on my jeep Cherokee. My fan started making noise, lots of noise. Finally had to remove it and found a dead mouse embedded in the squirrel cage fan. Removed him and fan went back to running quietly. There is a joke some where in those details about a mouse in a squirrel cage fan but.... Actually the joke was on me because it took a mountain of work to get that fan out of there. Back to the HVAC.... These motors and fans should make more noise at higher speeds but there should be no more vibration at higher speeds as fan and motor should be balanced to a high degree. Inspect your fan for any signs of dirt or dead mice.... Clean it if needed. Cleaning it could involve removing it and dissembling it to a certain degree so if you do that be vary careful.
If I have the fan switch set to on during cooling season does the fan stay at the same speed wrether there is a call for cooling or not or is fan only a lower speed than cooling
Thank you for the video It was helpful. ** Is it possible to have both heating and cooling on the high fan speed? I only have one black wire for high speed and one orange for medium high. For the winter time I switch them around so the high speed is on heat now but I don't want to have to remember to switch them back for the summer months. I have an outdoor wood stove with a heat exchanger in the plenum so I use the furnace fan only to circulate the hot air. Between the heat exchanger and the AC exchanger in the plenum I felt the air flow was a little low. Thank you if you could reply please...
The only way that's really possible is if you splice the high speed wire and make a splitter so it can connect to both terminals. DISCLAIMER! The relay SHOULD prevent any bad back-energizing on the board since only one terminal gets contact energized at a time, however I have never tried any of this before, so if you attempt, you do so at your own risk. The alternative is switching them around as you say you currently do. That really shouldn't cause any issues.
@@Sharkie626 I have not heard any one ever suggest this, but, it should be possible. You could install a toggle switch that can adjust speeds when in different positions. For instance, down would be low, middle would be medium and up would be high. This switch could be installed so the toggle switch is on the outside of the furnace housing. So all you would need to do is simply flip the switch when the furnace was not running and next time the blower comes on it would be at the speed you desired. This would make it easy.
Here are the instructions straight out of my Goodman furnace manual: To adjust the circulator blower speed, proceed as follows: 1. Turn OFF power to the furnace. 2. Select the heating and cooling blower speeds that match the installation requirements from the airflow table in the Product Data Book applicable to your model. 3. Relocate desired motor leads to the circulator blower heat and cool speed terminals on the integrated control module. (Terminals are identified as HEAT and COOL (hot)). If heating and cooling blower speeds are the same, a jumper wire must be used between the heat and cool terminals. This wire is provided in the literature package. 4. Connect all unused blower motor leads to the “PARK” terminals on the integrated control module. Any leads not connected to the “PARK” terminals must be taped.
Hello. I’m out west. So this house has a heat pump. It’s cold out and every time the heater turns on the air is cold for about 30 seconds or more before it warms up makes me cold every time it turns on it’s also loud it wakes me up at night. At my girlfriends house the vent is in the same location over the bed and I never hear it turn on, she has gas so it blows warm from the feet get go. What can I do I my place to fix the cold start ? Is there an issue there or is it because there speed. ? By the way house is only a couple years old. Thank you
For a heat pump, I don't think there is much you can do. The refrigerant has to more or less "fully get going" before it will start generating the heat at the vents.
I switched my heat wire from blue (medium high) to red (low). And it doesnt seem to change the fan speed. Any ideas? My furnace blows air too fast and loudly i wanted to lower it for the sound.
Hi Sharkie, Thanks for the great video. I've got a Bryant Furnace, with a standard COOL/HEAT board terminals, and a few other speeds on the SPARE/PARK terminals. The issue I'm having is that the FAN only runs when the Tstat "Nest" is in Cooling or Heating. I cannot get it to run when I select "FAN ONLY" I want to be able to recirculate airflow without having the system on cool or heat. The circuit board doesn't seem to have a "FAN" terminal... Maybe the option is in a DipSwitch on the board? or perhaps the Tstat isn't wired up correctly? Do you have any idea or suggestions? Thanks
The G terminal is for your fan. I would bet you didn’t have enough wires to power your tstat so they used your 4th wire in the C terminal instead of G and that’s not allowing you to run your fan. But it will come on in heat or cool automatically
@@russellhuntley3334 if you get a Honeywell tstat you don’t have to hook up the common (c) wire and can just run it off the batteries and put the green wire to the g terminal to be able to run just the fan. Usually you can run a new wire also or you can put a module on it, a company can get you fixed up
@@sogoodgolf Nice. Thanks for the tip.. first time using the Nest and I'm a bit under impressed... I pretty much disabled all the smart features because it seems to do what it wants instead of learning what we want...
So I just has a customer ask me there furnace sounds like a jet taking off when it’s running on heating and cooling. When adjusting the blower speed on heating do I need to adjust the gas pressure as well and basically do a new start up on it? Also for cooling if it’s running on high speed is it wise to lower the speed to medium speed?
Nah, gas pressure should be fine. Cooling speed I don't really recommend lowering because the evaporator relies on proper airflow for it to work properly, and bad air flow can cause it to ice up.
I have a single stage indoor and outdoor ac in-unit for my second floor. Will there be different fan speeds on the blower since it’s a is game stage or not. I have a double stage for my other floor and the blower changes speeds automatically. But my I would like my second floor one to blow more air.
Question - I'm using a blower fan (just like the one shown here) I removed from a furnace. I'm using to move air around a big open room during construction... At high speed, the air movement is a bit too much. If I run on low speed (red wire) is the amp draw significantly lower ? Thanks, Jim
My cool is too quiet after I replace the furnace motor, it doesn’t seem like it’s on high speed even though it’s on the black wire. What could that be?
After changing my gas valve, my furnace fan seem to have reduced its speed. I know because I can tell by the sound, the air is noticeably a tad weaker coming out of the vents, and a bed room door that is near the intake vent would get suck shut when the fan comes on but not anymore. I did not do anything on any of those wires as I did not know that you could change the speed of the fan before. It's not really a drastic change of speed, maybe it's like running/blowing 90% now than before the gas valve change. Any ideas?
So my low is still too fast. Is there not a way to slow it down even more? Too much CFM a for the ducting in this house and the intake is too small. Ac installer was a moron and didn’t care. It’s a 4ton unit. Needed to be 3-3.5 to. But why can’t the blower motor just be slowed down more? Or would the blower motor need to be replaced ?
If it's running on the red wire (check your diagram to be sure that's the right one), it can't be made any slower. Maybe see if the intake can be redone at all, using a different person of course.
I have two issues and I'm not sure if the fan speed would fix either but I'm thinking about lowering the cool fan speed to medium. I saw that you don't recommend it but.... 1. It's loud at the return and 2. when I lower the temp, because I'm hot, I'm freezing within a minute when I'm sitting in an area where the vent blows directly on me. I did remove the return air vent 23"x23" and that helped slightly. I've read changing the vent to a different style can help but it's still very loud. 2 years old. I read that Rheem is one of the quieter brands. Rheem RH1T4821STANJA.
Ooh look, "mechanical" speed control with wires. Mine is all digital since it has an ECM motor, and all of the speeds are adjusted through DIP switches.
Do you know, you can cause damage to the equipment by not setting blower speeds correctly. You can't just randomly decide to lower or raise. This is not something the average person with zero knowledge should ever be doing because it's shown on youtube. For heating, too high of a blower speed can actually cause condensation to form in the primary heat exchanger, resulting in corrosion. Too low can cause the heat exchanger to overheat and crack/develop holes. For heating, you're supposed to measure supply and return temperatures and in most cases get it within the middle of the temperature rise range of the rating plate. Generally a 45 to 55F rise is good. Before that's even checked, the fuel btu input should be verified by clocking the gas meter and if it's off by more than 5% or so, a tech needs to be called to check the manifold gas pressure. The temp rise test is meaningless for adjusting speeds if the fuel input is off, and having it under or over-fired throws off the fuel to air mix. Further, high is not always correct for cooling, if you have a 1.5 or 2 ton a/c, high is usually too much resulting in poor dehumidification. A static pressure test ideally should be done and airflow of each tap determined using the manufacturer's blower performance chart. From there, the correct tap can be selected to deliver 350 to 450 cfm per ton of cooling. There are other methods to measure airflow but this comment is getting long...
Yes, I am aware of this. In the video I said to not adjust the cooling speed because of how dependent the evaporator is on not only refrigerant pressures, but also air flow. I have heard from multiple HVAC people that raising speed for heat is generally okay to do, but just not to lower it. So if anything, I was following advice based on their own words.
@@Sharkie626 best to take the measurements because sometimes it's okay to reduce the heating speed and cooling speed. for heating though normally the factory setting is fine if the ducts were sized properly.
I have a two stage furnace was too loud so I call a HVAC tech to lower the blower speed a little bit. He said he lowered it by 5%..now I noticed its too low..some of the room in my house is not getting thd heat..Is reducing by 5% ..too low?
Thank you for posting this video. A tech came out and replaced my circuit board on my 915sa Bryant furnace last December. I noticed my return air vents were louder and my supply vents were blowing really strong. In the summer when the A/C was on the return air was quiet and the supply vent speeds were mellow. I didn’t think nothing of it until recently when during this winter I was like, why does my system sound like a jet when the heat comes on. I go check the circuit board and the black (high speed) wire is connected to the heat and the blue (med/low) is connected to the A/C side. I swapped them over and now my furnace is back running like it did before the board swap. Tech hooked the wires up wrong when swapping the new board over. Simple fix...probably shouldn’t of happened in the first place though.
This video helped me a lot! Our AC stopped blowing cold air and called a company to come look at it. Long story short, they said I needed a new unit. Not really believing what they had told me, looked up some information and UA-cam videos and it ended up being a bad capacitor which I was able to get from Amazon the next day. Our unit had been running for 5 hours with new capacitor, blowing cold air but it was very little flow and not cooling the house. Found this video and figured out the service guy had swapped the speed to Medium Low. Changed it back to HIGH speed and it has already made a difference in 10 minutes!!!
Hey nice! Glad it helped ya!
Guy is a CROOK!
Yea, HVAC guys will almost always try to replace your unit when it could be an easy fix. Because A: they sell you new unit and install, and B: They will gladly remove and "dispose of" your old one. Meaning, they will fix it and sell it as a used unit. Win win for them, loss loss for you. Car mechanics, HVAC guys, so many crooks out there. Having the ability to think and learn is essential to not getting ripped off. So few people possess this ability now, and it's so easy for companies to rip people off, it becomes their standard way of doing business.
@starbattles1 I have been a part of and around different different hvac contractors my entire life, and I have never once seen a company try to sell and install a used system. Not saying it doesn't happen, but it's definitely not a common thing.
Thanks man, told me exactly what I needed to know.
I have furnace only, no A/C. But like yours the fan only speed was on the high wire, and heat was on medium speed wire. Mine has trigger wires to move, instead of the fan wires. So first thing I did was pull the trigger wire off the med speed wire, and flipped the breaker. No fan came on. Plugged that back, and removed trigger wire off the high speed, and fan came on. So it was set on med speed for heat. I put the heat trigger on high, and fan only trigger on low. Put the cover on, flipped breaker, everything working as should. Went to thermostat and flipped it to fan only and the fan turned noticeably slower being on low speed.
My board has the 3 speed wires from fan each plugged in terminals, and next to each is high med or low. Then the trigger wires connect next to the one you desire. 2 Trigger wires. One powers on when fan only, other powers on for heat.
It was pretty simple. Still feel nervous reaching in with plyers, even though the breaker is off. BE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THE CAPASITER TERMANALS. IT STILL CONTAINS POWER, AND WILL BE WORSE THEN JUST TOUCHING A POWER WIRE. Years ago I asked my self....."self, what would happen if I touched the 2 capacitor terminals with a screw driver to see if it has power" I could have killed my self. Sounded like a shot gun blast, and launched that screw driver from my hand like a rocket. Luckily not in my direction, or I'd have been impaled, maybe dead. If that had been a finger, I probably would have lost that finger.
I been shocked by 110 and 220. OMG 220 will knock you on your arss. Just don't take the chances I did when I was younger. I had to fk around and find out, don't do what I did.
Nice work there! And good advice too. Yeah always gotta watch for capacitors. The only large one in there that I know of is the run capacitor for the fan motor. It "shouldn't" have any charge left in it when power is removed but yeah you always want to be careful when you work on these things. Hopefully I covered all the necessary safety advice in it.
Luckily 220 has never gotten me, but 110 has before. Dumb kid in me "Hey what's it like between those two prongs?" Luckily I never made THAT mistake again.
Excellent! 80kBTU Carrier 58WAV045 Weathermaker 8000 has only 4 heat discharge vent registers, since it only heats basement of a small house. Blower discharge was a too high/fast of air volume and very noisy; sounded like some huge shop fan on ultra-high! Swapped blue (Medium low lead, now connected to a SPARE terminal) with the Red (Low) lead per your info, and it slowed blower fan enough to quiet things nicely. Still blows fast and not too awfully hot at all, so it's good now. System has no A/C, so no worries about Cool terminal. It was great to learn the simple (now obvious) fact that the SPARE terminals are merely for storing unused blower lead connectors. This really took the confusion out of things! Big thanks!
Wish all instructions were this good, clearly explained, well spoken, articulate, understandable. Appreciate it very much!
Sorry I missed this!
Glad I could help ya. A lot don't seem to realize that details are the key! I always like to give as much info as I can where I feel it can on;y be helpful.
Apparently when I called my hvac guy out this summer, he must have switched these. Glad I watched this video before calling him again, this probably saved me a couple hundred dollars
Oh yeah service calls can be way up there these days.
Nice tip on how to increase the fan speed on the heat mode. Thanks a bunch!!!
Hey glad I could help!
Thank you for this video. We had a new circuit board installed this winter. My AC has frozen up every time since. After watching this I noticed the tech had wired it incorrectly (low speed cold). Followed your explanation and it works perfectly. Thanks for taking the time.
I was searching for a way to purposely lower the fan speed on AC because the fan is so loud. Unit is on main living floor in a closet. Sounds like that may not be a good idea. Someone else is commenting below that lowering it is better for removing humidity.
Perfect makes total sense, our hvac person said he switched the fan speed to high i had no idea what he meants, he swapped heat and cool wires since they think some sensor is tripping with a 3-3 error. I got the sensor and put the wires back. I actually went up one wire on the heat to get a little more flow thru our merv 5 filter.
With psc motors speed would be number of wires minus three (white/ neutral, and two browns for capacitor)
Typically, they will be 3, 4, or 5 speed.
I travelled nine states with an outfit that was founded in 1867 and patented their own large (can crawl under, inside, and on top of large) units . Worked on large industrial and institutional equipment. Some of the induced draft fan BEARINGS weighed more than these little residential furnaces.
Get used to PCM - that's the way the gooberment is forcing everything.
* EVERY UNIT LISTS A TEMPERATURE RISE for heating.
ALWAYS check your delta T in heating and cooling.
Make sure supply registers and returns are open. Then check discharge air temps compared to return. With cooling on one should expect 18 to 22 degree drop.
Heating temp rise is always listed on unit tag.
ALWAYS check ACTUAL temperature rise.
If you adjust it too low you can cause high temp short cycling or some units have thermal fuses like on a clothes dryer..
When checking cooling, I prefer to clean condenser coils. It's amazing how far head pressures will drop when coils are dirty. Head pressure and suction pressure are correlated. Cleaner outdoor coil equals lower head pressure which equals lower head temperature which equals lower suction temperature and pressure which equals the ability to absorb more heat and provide more efficient cooling.
Hey just want to say THANKS FOR SAVING MY CHRISTMAS. Had a new HVAC system put in and the blower was so strong it was creating a crazy vacuum and ultimately shutting down my furnace due to hi temp on my BTS (burner thermal sensor)
Cool deal! Glad I could help! :D
cool, any update if it continued to work as expected a year later?
Thank you for this video!
I knew that the fan speed was too low in AC mode. I am pleased that I was able to do this myself.
What did you do? That looks like it's our problem too.
Low speed is better for AC. If you get a faster speed it might cool you faster but you are leaving the humidity too high in the conditioned space. Low and longer is much more comfortable.
@@thechuckster1971 - yes, I will be trying this on my unit very soon. I have a single stage unit and the CFM is much higher than my ducts can actually handle so I'm going to slow it all down to try to remove more humidity without freezing up the coils.
It was hard finding a video like this. I appreciate you posting it. Thanks.
You’re the man. This helped me immensely as the fan was blowing too high when heating and was waking us up at night. I can still hear the furnace too clearly when we are in the living room, but I think that’s probably because the return air duct is way too big and it’s like an open hallway directly down to the furnace. I’m hoping we can reduce the size of it. Any tips?
regarding the single speed fan blower noise - I experienced the same thing with my two furnace units. Even after installing additional return vents to reduce the overall air pressure coming from the noisy return vents I tried an old trick that some of the A/C guys told me about. buy a pair of sheet metal pliers (for bending sheet metal) and straighten out the fins on the air vent grill. If you want to run a test ahead of this change - remove the air vent(s) altogether and notice the reduction in noise. If this works - then proceed to straightening out the louvers on the vent and return it back into place. It would appear for my situation the noise was actually air turbulence. I'm still tuning my blower speeds for our units and comfort, but even at the highest speeds the noise levels have dropped dramatically.
Thank you @@rgloeschner! That is helpful info. What I also recently learned is I think there was not enough return air flow and it sounds like that was one of your issues as well. We just re did our floors and we re routed the return air vent elsewhere, so I’m hoping that helps a lot.
My tonnage is actually 0.5 more then what the prior one was and now we are having humidity issues. The air handler fan speed is much more then the old one. I am so upset with my mistake but I am calling them Monday and beg them to resolve the issue. I think lowering the fan speed can help reduce the humidity. It may get down to the set temperature quicker but it doesn’t feel the temperature on the thermostat with higher and elevated humidity.
Great video! I was able to adjust my fan speed within 15 min to the desired flow!
Very good! Glad I could help!
I know this is not a typical situation but I think my friends single stage blower motor is set to high for the air conditioning.It is so loud from all the vents when they are all open completely and with the correct filter.I also feel as if it is blowing too hard and not removing enough humidity because the evaporator coil is not getting cold enough.
Hmm, is the refrigerant charge correct?
This is exactly what I’m dealing with.
My Goodman has the black high speed wire running to both the heat and AC, there's a little splitter and a jumper on it. The other lower 3 speeds are either capped off or landed on the board on a dead spot.
Subbed. Interesting topics and I like your clear style. Varied interests too, cool. Thanks!
Thanks I appreciate that!
I like your video, especially when you speak of the speed of the the fan when it is on in "on" mode (4:27 minute mark). Can this be done on a single stage unit. We have a Heil brand, 4 ton unit. The only time the fan runs "HI" is when the heat or A/C is running. When I have it in "FAN" mode alone, the air barely moves. Can you help us out?🙏😊 My husband is an HVAC fabricator/installer and just needs a little guidance in how to crank up the speed of the fan when solely in FAN mode. We used to have a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 (lasted 22 yrs) that ran high when in fan mode. Doesn't Heil do that? It's a single stage unit...should it matter?
Thanks!!!😊
Oh wow so sorry I missed this comment. Is the motor ECM by any chance? Usually Fan mode will follow the same speed as Heat mode.
That’s an excellent video Explained everything perfect 👌
Thanks for watching!
While it may seem inconvenient, I would recommend removing those terminals with a flat blade screwdriver. Using a pair of pliers can lead to a misshapen connector, and ultimately a bad or loose connection. So you use the screwdriver to pry the terminal off. Installing the terminal can be done with pliers. Just a little trick I learned...the hard way.
I actually had thought of that step at one point. Only problem is, there is literally no way to fit a flat blade on the connectors for the relay. With the exception of this example, it's really only a one, maybe two-time deal, so the pliers won't hurt anything.
Thanks this helped me change my furnace fan speed! Solved my problem
Glad I could help ya!
Heck, now I'm curious, and will have to see our 2003 Carrier furnace is setup!
What was your reason for changing the heat blower speed?
I figured since the vents are in the ceiling for the 2nd floor, and warm air rises, this will give the heat more of a boost.
Awesome, please update how it works out, when the time comes.
We installed a new Lennox system, and the heater setting is definitely LOUD. The system is working by creating a “feels like” temp that factors humidity. It runs for about 1 or 2 minutes, but operates more frequently on this setting. But the blower sounds loud and powerful. Would the high air flow cause more wear over time on the blower? The AC setting is very quiet and also does not operate for long time periods.
In my booklet for the G26 1. when the thermostat is set to fan on the blower will run at low speed (red). 2. when there is cooling the blower will run on cooling (blk).3. when on heating it will run at the heating speed yellow, blue or brown.
You suggested never turning the fan speed down on the AC but our unit pumps out air through the vents at tornadic speed, it's super loud. Any suggestions?
Hmm, an HVAC guy might be your best bet.
Why theres no fan speed selector switch outside the enclosure or fan speed option in the thermostat? Seems to be a no brainer.
To be fair, it's probably not something that should be changed all the time, especially blower speeds for A/C
Pro tip: Measure the resistance between common and the colored wires the one with the lowest resistance is high speed the one with the highest resistance is the slowest speed.
Amazed I missed this. That is great advice too! Something I will definitely keep in mind.
Hey Sharkie, Great video! Question. We run our fan on almost always, because we like the air flow in our home to be continuous during the summer with A/C on and after the system has hit the the set temperature, there is a brief switch to “fan only” but the fan only setting is very high and loud, much higher and louder than the AC. Since it’s based on the heater blower setting, what is the downside to, reducing the heater blower speed setting to something more desirable in fan only mode. This is a gas fired furnace. This is in an ADU with approx 800 sq ft. Is it possible that a reducing the fan speed on the heat side that the heat exchanger could be damaged because of the lack of airflow across the heat exchanger? Thank you for your answer. I appreciate your help. 13 year old York single stage.
My fans run fine, when the ac turns on it slows them down quite a bit...I wonder if its the same issue.
Thanks for the learning experience appreciate you .. if I want more speed on the cold air side do I do the same ?
Yep! Should follow this.
Awesome video - thanks for this
Very well explained. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Is there any way to adjust the blower speed when I turn only the blower fan on? My system blower is on high when it kicks on for heat or cool. But if I turn the fan to the on position instead of auto it operates at a very low speed.
That's interesting, is there a third spot on your board that is for Fan Only speed?
Excellent. Thank you. Now I know what to look for 👍
I have to check mine but could have 1, 2 or 4 speed settings. I wanted to purposely lower the AC fan speed because it is SO loud. It's on main living floor in a closet. Guess it's not a good idea due to possible freeze up :( Looks like you can't have both on low or both on high if you only have two settings anyway.
Yeah, if your A/C is on high, I would leave it on high.
My AC fan speed is on high and it makes vibrating noise when it runs. Do you think I can get away with running it on medium-high? I've tested it and the vibration goes away on that setting. I live in the Midwest and our HVAC doesn't see constant heavy use. I've already had the company come out to try and fix the vibration but they can't figure out what it is. Guy says it's just gotta be some part of the cabinet just loosened up over the years.
This was a fantastic video by the way. Thank you.
It's possible maybe your blower motor housing is loose. I would check that first. If you try medium-high, make sure you don't see any icing on your AC line.
@@Sharkie626 remembered that my brother in law is an HVAC tech and I asked him. He said Med, Med-Hi, and High are all acceptable AC on my unit.
My unit is literally whisper quiet now.
The vibration could have something to do with fan balance. If it is an older system the fan could be dirty and this could cause it to vibrate more due to the dirt buildup.
There is also the possibility of a foreign object got sucked into your fan.
No I don't mean your Russian girlfriend haha. Actually this situation did happen to me but it was on my jeep Cherokee.
My fan started making noise, lots of noise. Finally had to remove it and found a dead mouse embedded in the squirrel cage fan. Removed him and fan went back to running quietly.
There is a joke some where in those details about a mouse in a squirrel cage fan but.... Actually the joke was on me because it took a mountain of work to get that fan out of there.
Back to the HVAC.... These motors and fans should make more noise at higher speeds but there should be no more vibration at higher speeds as fan and motor should be balanced to a high degree.
Inspect your fan for any signs of dirt or dead mice.... Clean it if needed. Cleaning it could involve removing it and dissembling it to a certain degree so if you do that be vary careful.
If I have the fan switch set to on during cooling season does the fan stay at the same speed wrether there is a call for cooling or not or is fan only a lower speed than cooling
Nope. It will switch to heat speed when the thermostat is satisfied temperature-wise.
Will it switch back or is there a delay after thermostat satisfies before fan speed decreases to heat speed
@@cristiannieves3757 It could depend on your system. I know mine has a delay.
How can you set both cool and heat use the same speed?
Good video. I moved the blue wire to spare and the red to heat but I still feel/hear the same high pressure (no change). Why did it not reduce?
That would be medium low to low. Maybe it's just not significant enough to notice.
Thank you for the video It was helpful.
** Is it possible to have both heating and cooling on the high fan speed? I only have one black wire for high speed and one orange for medium high.
For the winter time I switch them around so the high speed is on heat now but I don't want to have to remember to switch them back for the summer months.
I have an outdoor wood stove with a heat exchanger in the plenum so I use the furnace fan only to circulate the hot air. Between the heat exchanger and the AC exchanger in the plenum I felt the air flow was a little low.
Thank you if you could reply please...
The only way that's really possible is if you splice the high speed wire and make a splitter so it can connect to both terminals.
DISCLAIMER! The relay SHOULD prevent any bad back-energizing on the board since only one terminal gets contact energized at a time, however I have never tried any of this before, so if you attempt, you do so at your own risk.
The alternative is switching them around as you say you currently do. That really shouldn't cause any issues.
@@Sharkie626 I have not heard any one ever suggest this, but, it should be possible. You could install a toggle switch that can adjust speeds when in different positions.
For instance, down would be low, middle would be medium and up would be high. This switch could be installed so the toggle switch is on the outside of the furnace housing.
So all you would need to do is simply flip the switch when the furnace was not running and next time the blower comes on it would be at the speed you desired. This would make it easy.
Here are the instructions straight out of my Goodman furnace manual:
To adjust the circulator blower speed, proceed as follows:
1. Turn OFF power to the furnace.
2. Select the heating and cooling blower speeds that match the installation requirements from the airflow table in the Product Data Book applicable to your model.
3. Relocate desired motor leads to the circulator blower heat and cool speed terminals on the integrated control module. (Terminals are identified as HEAT and COOL (hot)). If heating and cooling blower speeds are the same, a jumper wire must be used between the heat and cool terminals. This wire is provided in the literature package.
4. Connect all unused blower motor leads to the “PARK” terminals on the integrated control module. Any leads not connected to the “PARK” terminals must be taped.
Hello. I’m out west. So this house has a heat pump. It’s cold out and every time the heater turns on the air is cold for about 30 seconds or more before it warms up makes me cold every time it turns on it’s also loud it wakes me up at night. At my girlfriends house the vent is in the same location over the bed and I never hear it turn on, she has gas so it blows warm from the feet get go. What can I do I my place to fix the cold start ? Is there an issue there or is it because there speed. ? By the way house is only a couple years old. Thank you
For a heat pump, I don't think there is much you can do. The refrigerant has to more or less "fully get going" before it will start generating the heat at the vents.
I switched my heat wire from blue (medium high) to red (low). And it doesnt seem to change the fan speed. Any ideas? My furnace blows air too fast and loudly i wanted to lower it for the sound.
Are you sure blue is medium high? It could be medium low.
Hi Sharkie, Thanks for the great video. I've got a Bryant Furnace, with a standard COOL/HEAT board terminals, and a few other speeds on the SPARE/PARK terminals. The issue I'm having is that the FAN only runs when the Tstat "Nest" is in Cooling or Heating. I cannot get it to run when I select "FAN ONLY" I want to be able to recirculate airflow without having the system on cool or heat. The circuit board doesn't seem to have a "FAN" terminal... Maybe the option is in a DipSwitch on the board? or perhaps the Tstat isn't wired up correctly? Do you have any idea or suggestions? Thanks
Hmm, could be an issue with the Nest thermostat itself. I don't really know too much about those.
The G terminal is for your fan. I would bet you didn’t have enough wires to power your tstat so they used your 4th wire in the C terminal instead of G and that’s not allowing you to run your fan. But it will come on in heat or cool automatically
@@sogoodgolf Thanks! I'll check it out.. not much I can do if they ran a main wire that doesn't split into enough terminal points... ugh.
@@russellhuntley3334 if you get a Honeywell tstat you don’t have to hook up the common (c) wire and can just run it off the batteries and put the green wire to the g terminal to be able to run just the fan. Usually you can run a new wire also or you can put a module on it, a company can get you fixed up
@@sogoodgolf Nice. Thanks for the tip.. first time using the Nest and I'm a bit under impressed... I pretty much disabled all the smart features because it seems to do what it wants instead of learning what we want...
So I just has a customer ask me there furnace sounds like a jet taking off when it’s running on heating and cooling. When adjusting the blower speed on heating do I need to adjust the gas pressure as well and basically do a new start up on it? Also for cooling if it’s running on high speed is it wise to lower the speed to medium speed?
Nah, gas pressure should be fine. Cooling speed I don't really recommend lowering because the evaporator relies on proper airflow for it to work properly, and bad air flow can cause it to ice up.
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to know.
Happy to help ya!
I need this video bec.I’m not sure what I’m doing before
I have a single stage indoor and outdoor ac in-unit for my second floor. Will there be different fan speeds on the blower since it’s a is game stage or not. I have a double stage for my other floor and the blower changes speeds automatically. But my I would like my second floor one to blow more air.
Hmm, sounds like maybe you have a two stage heat system?
Can you splice high speed wire to cool and heat?
You can. The relay SHOULD prevent any kind of back-feeding from that, but do know I have never attempted this before, so attempt at your own risk.
My furnace is not connected on any of those connections you showed on your video but my furnace is blowing air..
You may have an ECM motor.
Question - I'm using a blower fan (just like the one shown here) I removed from a furnace. I'm using to move air around a big open room during construction...
At high speed, the air movement is a bit too much. If I run on low speed (red wire) is the amp draw significantly lower ?
Thanks,
Jim
Yep it should be, since the red wire is usually a lower speed.
@@Sharkie626 Thank You again.
Any downsides for using black high speed for heating? I want more return airflow in home
As far as I know, there aren't any.
Only downside is you’re sacrificing high speed in cooling. Guess that’s not a problem during the cold seasons
My cool is too quiet after I replace the furnace motor, it doesn’t seem like it’s on high speed even though it’s on the black wire. What could that be?
Are you sure the black wire is high on that specific motor? Might have a bad capacitor.
After changing my gas valve, my furnace fan seem to have reduced its speed. I know because I can tell by the sound, the air is noticeably a tad weaker coming out of the vents, and a bed room door that is near the intake vent would get suck shut when the fan comes on but not anymore. I did not do anything on any of those wires as I did not know that you could change the speed of the fan before. It's not really a drastic change of speed, maybe it's like running/blowing 90% now than before the gas valve change. Any ideas?
Unsure. Do you maybe have an ECM motor?
@@Sharkie626 I have a psc motor.
@@squidusn71 Hmm, maybe the capacitor is going bad?
You sound just like Ray Romano LOL
You're one of many who had said similar!
What’s a better speed for ac in florida ( hot humid ) high or low? For cooling
Sorry I missed this! If your A/C speed is on the highest one, leave it as is.
@@Sharkie626 I think that last technician put it on the low setting
To pull humidity out, a slower setting is better, if the tech changed it and your home is comfortable, leave it
I am dealing with this right now. Our new one is on a medium or high speed and the humidity is elevated Monday.
So my low is still too fast. Is there not a way to slow it down even more? Too much CFM a for the ducting in this house and the intake is too small. Ac installer was a moron and didn’t care. It’s a 4ton unit. Needed to be 3-3.5 to. But why can’t the blower motor just be slowed down more? Or would the blower motor need to be replaced ?
If it's running on the red wire (check your diagram to be sure that's the right one), it can't be made any slower. Maybe see if the intake can be redone at all, using a different person of course.
Well done - Thank You !
Anytime!
Why would an ac blow fast then slow every 30 seconds?
Sounds like you may have an ECM motor.
I have two issues and I'm not sure if the fan speed would fix either but I'm thinking about lowering the cool fan speed to medium. I saw that you don't recommend it but.... 1. It's loud at the return and 2. when I lower the temp, because I'm hot, I'm freezing within a minute when I'm sitting in an area where the vent blows directly on me. I did remove the return air vent 23"x23" and that helped slightly. I've read changing the vent to a different style can help but it's still very loud. 2 years old. I read that Rheem is one of the quieter brands. Rheem RH1T4821STANJA.
How can I change blower speed high to low??
Normally it's going from a black wire to a read one, but I would check your wiring diagram to be sure.
@@Sharkie626 What’s a better speed for ac in florida ( hot humid ) high or low? For cooling
@@Dilllonm I think that would be more dependent on the correct evaporator and condenser size.
@@Sharkie626 well I had my blower motor replaced it seems to go 1/3 speed as before and cools at least 2-3x slower now
Amazing
Ooh look, "mechanical" speed control with wires.
Mine is all digital since it has an ECM motor, and all of the speeds are adjusted through DIP switches.
Yep! Just one assigned speed! Nice and simple.
A+++ Thanks
Hey no problem!
Lol why are you against ECM motors?
More electronically complex which means more chances of something breaking.
Do you know, you can cause damage to the equipment by not setting blower speeds correctly. You can't just randomly decide to lower or raise. This is not something the average person with zero knowledge should ever be doing because it's shown on youtube.
For heating, too high of a blower speed can actually cause condensation to form in the primary heat exchanger, resulting in corrosion. Too low can cause the heat exchanger to overheat and crack/develop holes. For heating, you're supposed to measure supply and return temperatures and in most cases get it within the middle of the temperature rise range of the rating plate. Generally a 45 to 55F rise is good. Before that's even checked, the fuel btu input should be verified by clocking the gas meter and if it's off by more than 5% or so, a tech needs to be called to check the manifold gas pressure. The temp rise test is meaningless for adjusting speeds if the fuel input is off, and having it under or over-fired throws off the fuel to air mix.
Further, high is not always correct for cooling, if you have a 1.5 or 2 ton a/c, high is usually too much resulting in poor dehumidification. A static pressure test ideally should be done and airflow of each tap determined using the manufacturer's blower performance chart. From there, the correct tap can be selected to deliver 350 to 450 cfm per ton of cooling. There are other methods to measure airflow but this comment is getting long...
Yes, I am aware of this. In the video I said to not adjust the cooling speed because of how dependent the evaporator is on not only refrigerant pressures, but also air flow. I have heard from multiple HVAC people that raising speed for heat is generally okay to do, but just not to lower it. So if anything, I was following advice based on their own words.
@@Sharkie626 best to take the measurements because sometimes it's okay to reduce the heating speed and cooling speed. for heating though normally the factory setting is fine if the ducts were sized properly.
I have a two stage furnace was too loud so I call a HVAC tech to lower the blower speed a little bit. He said he lowered it by 5%..now I noticed its too low..some of the room in my house is not getting thd heat..Is reducing by 5% ..too low?
@@wildorchids3657 5% shouldn't make big difference.
Thank you for posting this video. A tech came out and replaced my circuit board on my 915sa Bryant furnace last December. I noticed my return air vents were louder and my supply vents were blowing really strong. In the summer when the A/C was on the return air was quiet and the supply vent speeds were mellow. I didn’t think nothing of it until recently when during this winter I was like, why does my system sound like a jet when the heat comes on. I go check the circuit board and the black (high speed) wire is connected to the heat and the blue (med/low) is connected to the A/C side. I swapped them over and now my furnace is back running like it did before the board swap. Tech hooked the wires up wrong when swapping the new board over. Simple fix...probably shouldn’t of happened in the first place though.
Way way over explained
If you say so. In instance like these I feel details are very important.
LED light is GARBAGE. Remember that.
What does that have to do with this video?