Perfect timing for your video as I’m about to install a downspout drain for the first time weather permitting over the weekend in the Northeast. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Keith!
I don’t like using perferated corrugated pipe. It seems counterintuitive to me. The whole purpose is to divert drainage away from the house. Releasing it below grade that close to the foundation gives me the willies
Perfed or not, doesn't matter to me. I have 5 of these installed around the house and I don't have a water/foundation issue. It was more cosmetic for me - about hiding the downspouts. Thanks for watching.
I've seen it recommended that you put in a catch basin that allows the water to flow through, catches the leaves and allows you to clean out the grit that often comes off of a shingle roof. Otherwise there is no way to clean out the underground pipe and its gets clogged with grit and eventually fails and has to be replaced
Awesome video. I have had my pipe laying above ground for 2 yrs wondering how I was going to bury it and still have water flow out to the side of the house with the ground being flat, this emitter idea is just what I need and very little work. Thank you
You might want to consider installing a screen before it goes underground to catch some of the leaves and gunk. Otherwise it might get clogged underground and stop working.
Flex-Drain is what my dad and I installed to my downspouts several years ago and it has worked well, however, someday and I am going to re-route the drainage in my backyard and use the heavier-duty corrugated pipe or PVC.
Be sure to dig a deep pocket for the emitter to sit in and fill with gravel. Also drill a few holes in the bottom of the emitter so the water drains out of it
Won't need any holes with how loose that PVC was around the corrugated. I say this respectfully, but this entire installation is kind of a mess, saved only by the fact that it's only a few feet long. Those holes will clog with dirt and shingle asphalt, but first, all that rain water will seep out the little holes, and roots will find the delicious water source. There's no reason at this point, with about 400 quality drain videos on UA-cam, to have left off the correct pieces (including leaf separator) and fabric.
I cut a 4" piece to raise it up a bit from the elbow to get the base level with surrounding soil. I was wondering if this was bad, but still seems to work. I like the fact it has that hole in elbow too to drain the leftover water
To provide details, I have the downspout connect to about 18 inches of white PVC soil pipe with a buried 90 deg. PVC elbow below ground. The PVC is better above ground where it is exposed to UV light and very solid and solid looking. Below ground attach a 10 ft length of non-perforated corrugated pipe to the PVC 90 and bury it with at least a 2 deg. pitch, to carry the water well away from the house foundation. Attach a 10 ft. section of perforated, corrugated pipe which is covered by a sock or surrounded in a good quality landscape fabric and terminate this pipe at a pop-up emitter. The sock or fabric will prevent silt and soil from entering the perforated pipe and clogging it over time. This perforated section will leach the water into the soil and down to the water table without moving back to your foundation wall. With light rains, the majority, or all of the water will be leached from this pipe section and will never reach the pop-up emitter. When heavy rains occur and the soil cannot absorb the water fast enough, the excess water will reach and activate the pop-up emitter and produce a puddle on the surface of the lawn, 20 feet away from your foundation. The puddle will evaporate to the air and will continue to be absorbed into the soil. Burying the pipe is great when you don't want 10 or 20 ft. of horizontal downspout pipe running across the surface of your lawn. This method is best when an exposed horizontal lawn pipe would interrupt with walkways or other access points. If someone trips, harms themselves and sues because of a horizontal downspout pipe, the homeowner is ruled to be negligent and has little chance of winning the case.
I thought you wanted solid pipe to run the first approx. 10 feet from downspouts, because you want it not saturate near your foundations or basement walls ?
I'm one of the skeptical ones on this install, Keith. How has it held up in the 2-3 years? I hope it was all good and the perforations didn't clog. Best of luck!
The work ethic here is great but the problem with this is drain pipes are not pressurized and can only flow water correctly and fast enough if the entire drain is pitched to a lower point. Where this pipe attaches to the bottom of the downspout is not pitched or elevated enough above the termination point of the bubbler so the water actually has to travel upwards through the elbow to exit the bubbler so you're not actually flowing the water you're just pushing water. Under light conditions it's not an issue but under a decent rainfall water is just coming down the downspout and slamming into a pipe underground half full of water and just getting pushed out the other end, it won't be able to keep up and just come back out where the new pipe is connected to the downspout being that point is basically at the same height as the top of bubbler. Basins are for collecting water, pipes should never stay full water afterwards, it means there's no pitch from entry to exit point and your not moving water your just pushing it. Also another absolutely needed factor if using bubblers in a system with little to no pitch is to surround/circle them with a hard surface of 6 inches or more the diameter because once the grass grows over and inside, the spring loaded cap won't pop up fully or at all after enough time and no water will flow after some time being there's not a lot of force behind it's flow.
Every other video I've watched on this they have glued the emitter onto the corruated pipe and drilled screws into the downspout to hold the adapter on. Did you have anything happen by not doin any of that? I ask because I'm about to do this within the hour
I've read reviews where people are saying don't run over the emitter with a lawnmower. The mower will suck the green cap off and destroy it. Have you had that problem?
Iam doing a French system along the side of my detached garage. I live I'm the city and my parents live in garage so water is been getting in there. I was gonna have the corrugated pipe run all the way to street from garage for water to exit but garage kinnda far from where garage is. So my question is if I use one of those emmiter pop up elbows somewhere down the pipe for water to exit, will I need to slope the corrugated pipe down to emmiter elbow so water can escape there if pipe gets filled up with water or emmiter pop up will work regardless of pipe slope?
Should have used the white COEX ridged pipe, and run the transition from your downspout to ground level....then started the underground drain lines. It looks cleaner to have the transition at ground level.
It was never about moving water away from the house. It was about hiding the downspout drain running through the rocks & planters. I don't have an issue with water in the basement and the sump pump only runs when we have a long, steady rain. Thanks for watching.
Ok thanks for the reply. I just purchased some land and we are building now and I noticed the water table is high so I will be putting in a French drain and I will also need to direct the water away from the house from the gutters and sun pump. Again thanks for the reply.
The pipes perforated (BAD IDEA!) so rainwater is going to leach into the ground right at the downspout and along the contiguous 8'! NOT good at all for the foundation. The perforated 'pipe' is going to clog up w/ gutter debris to boot.
I would have used heavier drain tile.That is really light weight and cheaper materials that will fail later and you will just have to dig it all over again.
Amazon. Here's the link. www.amazon.com/Storm-Drain-Water-Management-Systems/dp/B09GS5Z7KM/ref=sr_1_22?crid=2NDDCZJGUSH44&keywords=downspout%2Bextender&qid=1650476848&sprefix=downspout%2B%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-22&th=1 Emitters (green) are on this page: www.amazon.com/s?k=downspout+emitter&crid=25BK3B59IXM2A&sprefix=downspout+emitter%2Caps%2C67&ref=nb_sb_noss Make sure you get the correct size for your downspout. Thanks for watching.
You could but, the dirt would eventually get into the tube and create a small sink hole situation in the yard. You would at least want to cap off the end of the tube. Thanks for watching.
@@dalemihocik4732 I have 4 similar installations on my home and have installed about 50 for customers. Light rain events will be dispersed through the perforated section of the extension. The pop-up emitter only pops up during extreme rain conditions. But, Use at least 6 ft of non-perforated pipe to move water away from the foundation and then into a 10 ft. section of perforated pipe to dissipate the water to the ground. Put a sock on the perforated section to prevent clogging.
surprised they don't mention putting a "sock" around the perforated pipe. It keeps sand and dirt from getting into the pipe while still allowing water out!
@@sinewavedream I think he said it was perforated @8:36 . He could have put filter fabric down, then some 3/4, then the pipe and then more 3/4 and wrap the filter fabric around the top of the 3/4 to keep the soil from migrating into the pipe.
@@jackfoxxx68 lol...sorry your right i missed that. Than this whole video makes no sense! The point is too get the water away from your house, not let it soak back in next to the foundation.
You need some geo fabric and rock unless you want it to get clogged. You can also do a leach but you need some geo fabric and rock unless you want it to get clogged I didn't realize I only posted half my comment lol. Have a good one.
Any suggestions for cold winter climates? We often get well below zero in the winter and I'm wondering if I'll need heat cable not only in the downspout but out into the perforated pipe.
If you use the perforated pipe, the water will drain. If you use a non-perforated pipe, the water will not drain. You should bury the pipe below the ground's freeze line. Thanks for watching.
Use pvc for your run to the pop up. Youll want to dig further down as well. Place gravel the entire length of the pipe which reduces movement due to soil shifting/erosion. At the point where your elbow is dig a little pit for it and fill with the gravel so the extra that drains out has somewhere to escape immediately. Final tip. Buy some of those markers ppl use at the end of their driveways and stick them in the ground before it freezes. When it snows youll know exactly where your pop ups are and you can remove snow from that spot. In Michigan we would get 2 ft of snow one day and then the very next it would be 50*. The popup cant rise with the weight of that snow and it didnt have time to melt around it.
@@keithwilkes7629 To be below the freeze depth in Canada, the pipe would need to be 4 ft. deep not to freeze, but this isn't necessary. If the downspout extension is frozen, then the gutters are frozen also and not sending water to the downspouts. When the gutters thaw, the downspout extension will be thawed and ready to accept the flow. I have four buried installations and never had problems.
Amazon. Here's the link. www.amazon.com/Storm-Drain-Water-Management-Systems/dp/B09GS5Z7KM/ref=sr_1_22?crid=2NDDCZJGUSH44&keywords=downspout%2Bextender&qid=1650476848&sprefix=downspout%2B%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-22&th=1 Emitters (green) are on this page: www.amazon.com/s?k=downspout+emitter&crid=25BK3B59IXM2A&sprefix=downspout+emitter%2Caps%2C67&ref=nb_sb_noss
It wasn't all about moving water away from the house. It was about hiding the downspout drain and I didn't water standing water in the pipe because of the possibility of mosquitoes. Thanks for watching.
Everyone seems to have their idea of how to do it better, from pvc to cloth and 2ft gravel. 😭 I'm about to do mine about the same, except the black pipe will be non perforated.
That's right, there are a lot of "experts" to tell you there way is better. Have you heard this one? There's more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching.
Most ppl will say no. This is false. They can. It depends on how quickly your climate changes. As the weather got cold i always put flags where my pop ups were and dug the snow off of them. This prevented freezing as well as them being blocked and unable to pop up when the day before it snowed a ft and now its 50*
Do not use this system in a climate if you have snow. That popup DOESNT WORK FROZEN. Get the one where its like a box but it can still drain down 3' with stones for drainage. (It'll be the videos where the top of the end of drain has a vent like top.) Also, don't perforate the line...you want the water to empty at the end, not anywhere near home.
Thanks for this video which is what I am looking for- my landscaper install the pipe but did not install the emitter and rocks around it, may I know what's the impact without emitter?
they sell these new ones (new to me anyway) at homedepot called EZ-Drain that surrounds the perforated pipe with an artificial gravel kind of like packing peanuts, so the anti-clog mechanism is built in. haven't tried it yet, but looks like a cool idea!
You're not the first to think that. Roots don't grow in the open air. Also, because they're slits and not holes in the pipe, dirt won't get into the pipe either. Thanks for watching.
Several "experts" have commented on various things I've done wrong with this install. I installed the first one more than 10 years ago and their predictions have not come true. Thanks for watching.
This is cool, but certainly adds a lot of annual maintenance to your home. Imagine keeping these lines functioning and clean with leaves and debris. Too much to maintain.
i have seen alot of methods, most are overkill and pvc is expensive. But, this is the 1st, video, that i have seen that is all you really need to get the job done efficiehtly and cost effective, witrhout tooo much digging
This is why you watch the guys installing. Never use that box-store slinky plastic pipe. It's crushable, roots will get into it, and it's just all around really cheap. Use proper joints or at least true corrugated drainage pipe. Plus, the perforations will clog fast without a sock or landscape fabric around that. At least there's 1/8" of sand to really disperse the water in the bottom though. /s
Pretty sure there are couple mistakes here. 1. You needed to wrap up the pipe in geotextile fabric with rocks around it so it doesn’t get clogged up. 2. Why did you need the sand? That was unnecessary.
I would say, put more dirt underneath the sod on top of the pipe and maybe try stepping on it with your feet it should be slightly above the rest of the yard and as you will find out if you get your hose out and wet that area all that dirt it’s going to settle in and you’re gonna have a low spot so you wanna make that grass higher so that when it does get wet and settles down, it will be even if you start off with it even with it completely unpacked, the way you did it it will definitely be a low spot you got to step on it you have to pack it
Oh, how nice. You didn’t have to deal with any nasty roots when digging your trench. Oh that’s sooo realistic to not have to deal with stubborn roots when you’re digging. I’d like to visit your planet one day.
Actually I did have to contend with roots when I installed a drain pipe on another side of the house where I had removed a tree. Fun isn't the word I'd use. See, we do live on the same planet. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 I love your idea for the downspout with the emitter, question would this be a good idea for me who is living in Quebec with -45 weather in the winter? Need your advice.
The thinner corrugated ABS pipe will last at least 30 years when buried away from ultraviolet light. A PVC extension and elbow, where it is exposed to sunlight where it meets the downspout would be a good idea.
This doesn't look deep enough. Everything I've read says 12 inches. Top of your pipe looks about 4 inches from the surface. It needs be 12 inches from the surface.
Thank you so much for this. Thank you for providing a simplified step by step video to help new homeowners.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Perfect timing for your video as I’m about to install a downspout drain for the first time weather permitting over the weekend in the Northeast. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Keith!
I'm doing a downspout drain right now too! I'm in New England and if it ever stops raining, I'll get it done.
You're like a chef trimming that grass to put it back in place! I think this idea looks fantastic! Another LIKE for your video!
I don’t like using perferated corrugated pipe. It seems counterintuitive to me. The whole purpose is to divert drainage away from the house. Releasing it below grade that close to the foundation gives me the willies
Perfed or not, doesn't matter to me. I have 5 of these installed around the house and I don't have a water/foundation issue. It was more cosmetic for me - about hiding the downspouts. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 gotcha 👍
Especially since hard pipe is the same cost even a little less
Ideally it would be nice if the pipe’s perforation didn’t start for, say, four feet from where the pipe attaches to the downspout.
I need to do this
I've seen it recommended that you put in a catch basin that allows the water to flow through, catches the leaves and allows you to clean out the grit that often comes off of a shingle roof. Otherwise there is no way to clean out the underground pipe and its gets clogged with grit and eventually fails and has to be replaced
Can you link what you’re describing?
I see people extend it 10 ft beyond, and add a joint valve in mid stop to flush the grits in future.
@@skimitup just search for down spout draining you'll see a lot of different videos on tube.
Looks great. The only thing I'd do differently is use the pipe wrap to keep dirt/debris out of the pipe.
Not needed if it's a solid pipe.
Blake Erdmann except it is a perforated pipe, so yah it’s a good idea.
@@djcsr naa take a closer look.
@@blakeerdmann It's not solid pipe. Did you watch the vid?
He should have used a solid pipe
Awesome video. I have had my pipe laying above ground for 2 yrs wondering how I was going to bury it and still have water flow out to the side of the house with the ground being flat, this emitter idea is just what I need and very little work. Thank you
Glad I could help and thanks for watching.
You might want to consider installing a screen before it goes underground to catch some of the leaves and gunk. Otherwise it might get clogged underground and stop working.
Flex-Drain is what my dad and I installed to my downspouts several years ago and it has worked well, however, someday and I am going to re-route the drainage in my backyard and use the heavier-duty corrugated pipe or PVC.
Great video. Makes so much sense and finally a simplified process. TFS!
This is the best explained video I've watched ..😊
I came to YT specifically to see this video ... good stuff! Thanks
Thank you for creating this video. It was a big help!
Thanks for watching.
No gravel and landscaping fabric around the perfored pipe ?????
Be sure to dig a deep pocket for the emitter to sit in and fill with gravel. Also drill a few holes in the bottom of the emitter so the water drains out of it
And use all pvc next time!
@@joshuagraden7606 Yeah, I would agree. PVC is the way to go.
Won't need any holes with how loose that PVC was around the corrugated. I say this respectfully, but this entire installation is kind of a mess, saved only by the fact that it's only a few feet long. Those holes will clog with dirt and shingle asphalt, but first, all that rain water will seep out the little holes, and roots will find the delicious water source. There's no reason at this point, with about 400 quality drain videos on UA-cam, to have left off the correct pieces (including leaf separator) and fabric.
use solid pipe near the foundation too. perforated pipe will soak the ground and put moisture where you dont want it.
All the wrong parts were used.
I cut a 4" piece to raise it up a bit from the elbow to get the base level with surrounding soil. I was wondering if this was bad, but still seems to work. I like the fact it has that hole in elbow too to drain the leftover water
To provide details, I have the downspout connect to about 18 inches of white PVC soil pipe with a buried 90 deg. PVC elbow below ground. The PVC is better above ground where it is exposed to UV light and very solid and solid looking. Below ground attach a 10 ft length of non-perforated corrugated pipe to the PVC 90 and bury it with at least a 2 deg. pitch, to carry the water well away from the house foundation. Attach a 10 ft. section of perforated, corrugated pipe which is covered by a sock or surrounded in a good quality landscape fabric and terminate this pipe at a pop-up emitter. The sock or fabric will prevent silt and soil from entering the perforated pipe and clogging it over time. This perforated section will leach the water into the soil and down to the water table without moving back to your foundation wall. With light rains, the majority, or all of the water will be leached from this pipe section and will never reach the pop-up emitter. When heavy rains occur and the soil cannot absorb the water fast enough, the excess water will reach and activate the pop-up emitter and produce a puddle on the surface of the lawn, 20 feet away from your foundation. The puddle will evaporate to the air and will continue to be absorbed into the soil.
Burying the pipe is great when you don't want 10 or 20 ft. of horizontal downspout pipe running across the surface of your lawn. This method is best when an exposed horizontal lawn pipe would interrupt with walkways or other access points. If someone trips, harms themselves and sues because of a horizontal downspout pipe, the homeowner is ruled to be negligent and has little chance of winning the case.
I thought you wanted solid pipe to run the first approx. 10 feet from downspouts, because you want it not saturate near your foundations or basement walls
?
Please refer to previous comments. Thanks for watching.
That would be the better way to do it. And if using perf pipe, should put gravel under it
Learned something new and fairly easy. Thanks for sharing.
I've been told 20 different ways how I should have done this. I'm sure each of the experts were right. Thanks for watching.
I'm one of the skeptical ones on this install, Keith. How has it held up in the 2-3 years? I hope it was all good and the perforations didn't clog. Best of luck!
I did this last year and now working on extending it. Great video
Thanks for watching
Really appreciate keeping talking to a minimum. Most people talk too much, show too little.
Does it ever get clogged? I feel like a lot of debris comes out of my rain spout
The work ethic here is great but the problem with this is drain pipes are not pressurized and can only flow water correctly and fast enough if the entire drain is pitched to a lower point. Where this pipe attaches to the bottom of the downspout is not pitched or elevated enough above the termination point of the bubbler so the water actually has to travel upwards through the elbow to exit the bubbler so you're not actually flowing the water you're just pushing water. Under light conditions it's not an issue but under a decent rainfall water is just coming down the downspout and slamming into a pipe underground half full of water and just getting pushed out the other end, it won't be able to keep up and just come back out where the new pipe is connected to the downspout being that point is basically at the same height as the top of bubbler. Basins are for collecting water, pipes should never stay full water afterwards, it means there's no pitch from entry to exit point and your not moving water your just pushing it. Also another absolutely needed factor if using bubblers in a system with little to no pitch is to surround/circle them with a hard surface of 6 inches or more the diameter because once the grass grows over and inside, the spring loaded cap won't pop up fully or at all after enough time and no water will flow after some time being there's not a lot of force behind it's flow.
Thanks for the video. Just what i was looking for. Ray, Oklahoma
Love it and so will the wife. Thank you. Great job.
Thanks for watching
For added 'peace of mind' or support, wrap the connecting points with a weatherproof tape...
This was very helpful thank you
Every other video I've watched on this they have glued the emitter onto the corruated pipe and drilled screws into the downspout to hold the adapter on. Did you have anything happen by not doin any of that? I ask because I'm about to do this within the hour
I have 4 of these with the same install process. Never had an issue with any of them. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 awesome thank you. Just not trying to do more than I have to
How do you winterize this, if it waits for water to reach a certain level to dispose of it?
There are slits in the pipe for the water to drain. No winterization needed. Thanks for watching.
Great music, great instructions👍
What brand shovel did you use?
Some of the flexible pipe is easily crushed. What if the lawn man drives or walks over the buried pipe?
I drive over it with my riding mower. Not an issue. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 👍
Did you have to call before you dig here? Or is it not deep enough to matter
This was in the back yard, away from any underground stuff. Only went down about 1'. Thanks for watching.
do you need another adapter between the end of the pipe to the pop up emmiter?
No. It snaps right in. Thanks for watching.
I've read reviews where people are saying don't run over the emitter with a lawnmower. The mower will suck the green cap off and destroy it. Have you had that problem?
Nope. The grass eventually grows over the emitter and you have to really look to see it. Even before that, it wasn't a problem. Thanks for watching.
Just did this today with perforated pipe. Any issues with yours so far? Do you wish you would’ve used solid pipe?
I have 4 of these installed. Never had an issue. Thanks for watching.
I’m just going to stick with mine being above ground. I have a lot of trees over my house so clogging occurs often. Easy to move when I mow the lawn.
burying the downspout extension is particularly helpful if the downspout crosses pathways or concrete sidewalks.
Iam doing a French system along the side of my detached garage. I live I'm the city and my parents live in garage so water is been getting in there. I was gonna have the corrugated pipe run all the way to street from garage for water to exit but garage kinnda far from where garage is. So my question is if I use one of those emmiter pop up elbows somewhere down the pipe for water to exit, will I need to slope the corrugated pipe down to emmiter elbow so water can escape there if pipe gets filled up with water or emmiter pop up will work regardless of pipe slope?
Slope down away from the house/garage o the emitter. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 thank u
Be nñ
Night
Should have used the white COEX ridged pipe, and run the transition from your downspout to ground level....then started the underground drain lines. It looks cleaner to have the transition at ground level.
Is that 4” corrugated pipe?
Yes. Thanks for watching
what is the dimension of the U shaped pvc connector
Thanks
Laid pvc pipe slope perforated ,does water flow easily
So you used the corrugated pipe with holes drilled in it?
They're fine slits, not holes. Water drains but dirt doesn't get through. Thanks for watching.
The Sand bed will hold water.
How is this working? Without a barrier, I would think the the roots would overtake that flexible piping over time?
Despite the "expert's" opinions, all 4 that I've installed, exactly...the...same...way, work just fine. No problems...at....all. Thanks for watching.
IT's been over 3 yrs, is it still working ok for you? I'm planning to do the samething.
Haven't had any issues with any of the 4 that I installed. This was the latest. Everything still flowing fine. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 thx for your quick reply. Have a blessed day.
Now does there need to be a pitch? I need to do this but not sure on that.
You can pitch it down a bit if you want. I didn't worry about it. Thanks for watching.
Any solid pipe sections (non-perforated) should be pitched away from the foundation, but not necessary for the perforated section.
How much does your sub pump run? I would think you would want to take the water further away from your house then what you did but maybe not.
It was never about moving water away from the house. It was about hiding the downspout drain running through the rocks & planters. I don't have an issue with water in the basement and the sump pump only runs when we have a long, steady rain. Thanks for watching.
Ok thanks for the reply. I just purchased some land and we are building now and I noticed the water table is high so I will be putting in a French drain and I will also need to direct the water away from the house from the gutters and sun pump. Again thanks for the reply.
You need to keep digging and stretch the pop up at least 20 feet away from the house or the water will find it's way back.
I've used the same process on 5 spouts and never had an issue with water inside the foundation or basement. Thanks for watching though.
The pipes perforated (BAD IDEA!) so rainwater is going to leach into the ground right at the downspout and along the contiguous 8'! NOT good at all for the foundation. The perforated 'pipe' is going to clog up w/ gutter debris to boot.
I would have used heavier drain tile.That is really light weight and cheaper materials that will fail later and you will just have to dig it all over again.
Nope. Been years for several around the house and never an issue. Thanks for watching.
Where did you get the black tubing and the connector. I went to HD and I couldn’t find it. Did u order online as it looks like it came in a box.
Amazon. Here's the link.
www.amazon.com/Storm-Drain-Water-Management-Systems/dp/B09GS5Z7KM/ref=sr_1_22?crid=2NDDCZJGUSH44&keywords=downspout%2Bextender&qid=1650476848&sprefix=downspout%2B%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-22&th=1
Emitters (green) are on this page:
www.amazon.com/s?k=downspout+emitter&crid=25BK3B59IXM2A&sprefix=downspout+emitter%2Caps%2C67&ref=nb_sb_noss
Make sure you get the correct size for your downspout. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 thanks
Do you really need the Green cover thing at the end? Or you could just leave it without it and just let water go into the dirt?
You could but, the dirt would eventually get into the tube and create a small sink hole situation in the yard. You would at least want to cap off the end of the tube. Thanks for watching.
Should have wrapped that pipe with drain fabric. You’re gonna get roots through those holes in a couple years and clog your system
Would love to see a video of it in action during rain
How true . Before digging up my yard and spending money for supplies I sure could use a visual of it in use .
@@dalemihocik4732 I have 4 similar installations on my home and have installed about 50 for customers. Light rain events will be dispersed through the perforated section of the extension. The pop-up emitter only pops up during extreme rain conditions. But, Use at least 6 ft of non-perforated pipe to move water away from the foundation and then into a 10 ft. section of perforated pipe to dissipate the water to the ground. Put a sock on the perforated section to prevent clogging.
Need a cleanout.
How do I clean out a downspout that is tightly connected to a corrugated pipe?
I suggest you call a local downspout installer. Sorry I couldn't help. Thanks for watching.
The pop up emitter is not connected securely to the flex pipe.
Are you trying to water the lawn?
No. Inconspicuously moving water away from the house.
If I use the perforated pipe do I need to add an emiitter cap if I just want to hide the downspout drain.
You'd want to lay down a long length so it soaks into the soil in the event of a heavy rain. Thanks for watching.
surprised they don't mention putting a "sock" around the perforated pipe. It keeps sand and dirt from getting into the pipe while still allowing water out!
It's not a perforated pipe, what your describing is a french drain. This is solid pipe used to send downspout water away from the house.
@@sinewavedream I think he said it was perforated @8:36 . He could have put filter fabric down, then some 3/4, then the pipe and then more 3/4 and wrap the filter fabric around the top of the 3/4 to keep the soil from migrating into the pipe.
@@jackfoxxx68 lol...sorry your right i missed that. Than this whole video makes no sense! The point is too get the water away from your house, not let it soak back in next to the foundation.
You need some geo fabric and rock unless you want it to get clogged.
You can also do a leach but you need some geo fabric and rock unless you want it to get clogged
I didn't realize I only posted half my comment lol. Have a good one.
I've installed 5 of these over the years exactly the same way without any clogging. Thanks for watching.
why do you have to use a perforated tube?
You don't. Thanks for watching.
what weed guard did you use?
Any good quality weed control fabric will do. Don't use the cheap, thin stuff. Thanks for watching.
What is the diameter of the tubing. Is it 4 inch.
Yes and thanks for waatching
Any suggestions for cold winter climates? We often get well below zero in the winter and I'm wondering if I'll need heat cable not only in the downspout but out into the perforated pipe.
If you use the perforated pipe, the water will drain. If you use a non-perforated pipe, the water will not drain. You should bury the pipe below the ground's freeze line. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 Thank you!
Use pvc for your run to the pop up. Youll want to dig further down as well. Place gravel the entire length of the pipe which reduces movement due to soil shifting/erosion. At the point where your elbow is dig a little pit for it and fill with the gravel so the extra that drains out has somewhere to escape immediately.
Final tip. Buy some of those markers ppl use at the end of their driveways and stick them in the ground before it freezes. When it snows youll know exactly where your pop ups are and you can remove snow from that spot.
In Michigan we would get 2 ft of snow one day and then the very next it would be 50*. The popup cant rise with the weight of that snow and it didnt have time to melt around it.
@@keithwilkes7629 To be below the freeze depth in Canada, the pipe would need to be 4 ft. deep not to freeze, but this isn't necessary. If the downspout extension is frozen, then the gutters are frozen also and not sending water to the downspouts. When the gutters thaw, the downspout extension will be thawed and ready to accept the flow. I have four buried installations and never had problems.
Where will I find that three pieces kit at please ? Does anybody know ?
Amazon. Here's the link.
www.amazon.com/Storm-Drain-Water-Management-Systems/dp/B09GS5Z7KM/ref=sr_1_22?crid=2NDDCZJGUSH44&keywords=downspout%2Bextender&qid=1650476848&sprefix=downspout%2B%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-22&th=1
Emitters (green) are on this page:
www.amazon.com/s?k=downspout+emitter&crid=25BK3B59IXM2A&sprefix=downspout+emitter%2Caps%2C67&ref=nb_sb_noss
@@keithwilkes7629 thank you buddy 👍👍👍
What does the emitter do?
Learned from google!
Nicely done, Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
why use a preforated pipe, why not solid?
It wasn't all about moving water away from the house. It was about hiding the downspout drain and I didn't water standing water in the pipe because of the possibility of mosquitoes. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629
hi Kevin, aren't the drain pipes supposed to be solid? I am installing some, please advise.
@@TK-yy7ql If your intent is to move water away from the house, use solid. That wasn't my intent when I installed the pipe.
@@TK-yy7ql If you are trying to divert water AWAY from house/foundation, definitely use solid pipe.
@@keithwilkes7629 you should always move water away from the house.... Always.
Do you have to pitch the pipe to make sure water flows away?
The corrugated so the water drains through the slits in the pipe. Thanks for watching.
Great video!! Thanks!!
Shouldn't you use a wrap for that perforated pipe so the holes don't get clogged?
I've had these installed for years and the pipe clogging has never been an issue. Thanks for watching.
Yes, use a sock designed for that purpose or wrap the pipe with landscape fabric.
Everyone seems to have their idea of how to do it better, from pvc to cloth and 2ft gravel. 😭
I'm about to do mine about the same, except the black pipe will be non perforated.
That's right, there are a lot of "experts" to tell you there way is better. Have you heard this one? There's more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching.
Informative email; it's appreciated!
does this come as a kit?
No. See the previous response for parts. Thanks for watching.
Yes it does, with synthetic gravel wrapped flex tube! ( no need for gravel bed)
do those emitters freeze up during the winter?
No. Thanks for watching.
Most ppl will say no. This is false. They can. It depends on how quickly your climate changes. As the weather got cold i always put flags where my pop ups were and dug the snow off of them.
This prevented freezing as well as them being blocked and unable to pop up when the day before it snowed a ft and now its 50*
@@frankrobbins8508 I get about 50. “ of snow and weather gets to -25 f it’s pretty useless for me
By the time the gutters thaw and water starts to enter the system, the pop-up emitters have thawed.
Due to cold winter and snow, how deep pipe should go?
You want to bury the pipe below the soil's freeze line. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 I guess it won’t work in zone 5 ,I have to bury it 50 “
Do not use this system in a climate if you have snow. That popup DOESNT WORK FROZEN. Get the one where its like a box but it can still drain down 3' with stones for drainage. (It'll be the videos where the top of the end of drain has a vent like top.) Also, don't perforate the line...you want the water to empty at the end, not anywhere near home.
Very Informative. Really helped when I did my pipe and pop emitter.
🤔 what's gonna happen to the water that will just get stuck inside the hose for a long period of time? Is it gonna sit there?
The pipe is perforated so the water drains. Thanks for watching.
When people do step by step instructions how to videos why don't they put what material products and links so we can find the product.
it's because they are not selling anything... just sharing info
How far is the emitter away from your foundation?
8'. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video which is what I am looking for- my landscaper install the pipe but did not install the emitter and rocks around it, may I know what's the impact without emitter?
I would think that the water would just seep out of the pipe into the surrounding soil. Thanks for watching.
Landscapers will typically run the underground pipe into a small drain pit. In some states it is required. If they did that no Emitter is needed
im gonna do this ... thank you
If its perforated then you need to cover with gravel/ fabric, otherwise it'll clog with mud!
they sell these new ones (new to me anyway) at homedepot called EZ-Drain that surrounds the perforated pipe with an artificial gravel kind of like packing peanuts, so the anti-clog mechanism is built in. haven't tried it yet, but looks like a cool idea!
@@MKorostoff Good point, also wouldnt roots try to get into the pipe through the perforations?
@@MKorostoff It's expensive! - $80 for 10 feet.
@@mapex311 I figure that price is fair when you factor in the cost of gravel and filter cloth for a traditional system.
@@MKorostoff Figure $15 for each 10 ft. section for a sock or landscape fabric and gravel. Much cheaper.
Don’t forget to cal Miss Dig!
putting dirt on top of perforated pipe does not seem right
I hope you like roots
You're not the first to think that. Roots don't grow in the open air. Also, because they're slits and not holes in the pipe, dirt won't get into the pipe either. Thanks for watching.
@@mattnewland8963 Right fighter?
@@keithwilkes7629 Just right. Please dont forget me when it's clogged with roots. Adios
This is a nightmare for maintenance. Let’s hope the plastic tube does not need to be replaced.
Several "experts" have commented on various things I've done wrong with this install. I installed the first one more than 10 years ago and their predictions have not come true. Thanks for watching.
This is cool, but certainly adds a lot of annual maintenance to your home. Imagine keeping these lines functioning and clean with leaves and debris. Too much to maintain.
I have zero maintenance with this. If you have trees nearby, install a gutter shield. Thanks for watching.
i have seen alot of methods, most are overkill and pvc is expensive. But, this is the 1st, video, that i have seen that is all you really need to get the job done efficiehtly and cost effective, witrhout tooo much digging
Thanks and thanks for watching.
I am not on board with a perferated pipe because roots a can grow in there.
This is why you watch the guys installing. Never use that box-store slinky plastic pipe. It's crushable, roots will get into it, and it's just all around really cheap. Use proper joints or at least true corrugated drainage pipe. Plus, the perforations will clog fast without a sock or landscape fabric around that. At least there's 1/8" of sand to really disperse the water in the bottom though. /s
You should read my previous responses to posts like yours. And check this out.:ua-cam.com/video/qALBPpjvcvQ/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.
Pretty sure there are couple mistakes here.
1. You needed to wrap up the pipe in geotextile fabric with rocks around it so it doesn’t get clogged up.
2. Why did you need the sand? That was unnecessary.
Please read previous posts.
I would say, put more dirt underneath the sod on top of the pipe and maybe try stepping on it with your feet it should be slightly above the rest of the yard and as you will find out if you get your hose out and wet that area all that dirt it’s going to settle in and you’re gonna have a low spot so you wanna make that grass higher so that when it does get wet and settles down, it will be even if you start off with it even with it completely unpacked, the way you did it it will definitely be a low spot you got to step on it you have to pack it
Oh, how nice. You didn’t have to deal with any nasty roots when digging your trench. Oh that’s sooo realistic to not have to deal with stubborn roots when you’re digging. I’d like to visit your planet one day.
Actually I did have to contend with roots when I installed a drain pipe on another side of the house where I had removed a tree. Fun isn't the word I'd use. See, we do live on the same planet. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 I love your idea for the downspout with the emitter, question would this be a good idea for me who is living in Quebec with -45 weather in the winter? Need your advice.
The perforated pipe will fill with dirt
The "experts" keep saying that. After installing the first one more than 10 years ago, I'm still not having any issues. Thanks for watching.
@@keithwilkes7629 good to know thanks
Use 4” pvc pipe instead all that cheap stuff will need replacement after two years in the elements
I've had this "cheap stuff" installed for years. Still doing the job. Thanks for watching though.
Thinner plastic breaks down faster, PVC I find is more durable. Good job by the way😌
The thinner corrugated ABS pipe will last at least 30 years when buried away from ultraviolet light. A PVC extension and elbow, where it is exposed to sunlight where it meets the downspout would be a good idea.
Seems like you are still dumping water at your foundation level.
Please read previous responses.
That needs to be much further away from the foundation
Says you. Thanks for watching.
we just laid the pipe on the ground 😂
To each his own, as it should be. Thanks for watching.
This doesn't look deep enough. Everything I've read says 12 inches. Top of your pipe looks about 4 inches from the surface. It needs be 12 inches from the surface.
I don't live in the far north. Don't need to worry about water sitting (which it doesn't) in the pipe and freezing. Thanks for watching.
That is not good tubing to bury.
But that's what it's made for. Thanks for watching and leaving your expert comment.
Very cheap materials will break down. Better to use pvc.