THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!! I saw it a while ago a just stored it in my memory bank for later. It took me a while when looking for it today but once I saw it I knew it was THE one! Thanks for taking the time to share and teach the rest of us!!
You are a genius! I am about to work on a button neck wrap, that has a lovely cable down the middle of it, that I had made before. In the first one, the flare was horrible and even after blocking it, I could see it!!! Your technique suggestions are fantastic! Thanks so much!
you are an amazing person, sharing all this knowledge, wow, I feel it is possible to do a more advanced knitting project with you as a resource. Thank you Roxanne so much
I was getting ready to knit a scarf with a large cable down the middle when I happened upon your video and so glad I did. I followed your instruction to avoid flair and it came out perfect. I cast on 20 stitches, knitted my lower edge and on the last row I added 4 more stitches and it was just enough to keep the scarf even with no flair. Thank you so much for this video.
Nothing to say than thanks again! ...and again and again ... You are great! I learn a lot and l knit for about 42 years, a bit longer. Your way to teach is formidable and not only me but so many people are gled for it!
You're so smart! Thank you for this. I'm incorporating the cable motif originally slated for a baby blanket into an adult cardigan (please don't judge - I'm weird like this) and needed ideas to help with the areas requiring more precise shaping (shoulders, armscyes, neckline, etc.). A slight rearrangement of the actual cabling, plus adding some a couple of rows below the shoulder shaping will be PERFECT! Again, thank you so, so much. xx
Thank you so much for this video on fixing cable flare and your article in Interweave! Now I finally understand what to do and how to do it! Karen Barrett
Thank you so much for this video I just made a cabled hat for my granddaughter for her 18th birthday (she is graduating this year and I substitute at her high school for extra income) there was a slight cable flare , the pattern is free 'Redheart, LW5910 Road to Success Chic Hat', there is 1 decrease stitch between the rib and the cable, I thought (while knitting it) that doesn't sound right! Well it isn't right and your video helped me a lot! Thank you so much, I am now swatching different ways to make a much nicer looking hat!
Thank you. Just finished the garter edge body of a top-down cardi with a cable down the spine. Tried it on and the bottom of the cable part sticks out like a duck's tail. Will rework it tomorrow now I know how to fix it.
I started teaching myself to knit this past year. I finally got a dishcloth that looked like a dishcloth. Lol. I started this journey so that I could make me one of those beautiful cabled pieces that are always like $500. Although I understand the working mechanics because youse explain them well I’m starting to wonder if I’ll ever have enough knowledge to get my vision out of my head because just between you and I; although, I’ve seen many beautiful pieces that I would love in my closet. None of them quite fit that vision in my head. Well, 😊I just keep striving to know more. I’ve been trying to find patterns that would help me on my way down that path. Not having much luck there… if there are any suggestions? Anyhow. Love you passion many blessings
Thanks for a very informative video....I am about to start a sweater with cabling in the centre of the front, starting at the cast on with ribbing either side. You have given me some great ideas to overcome the flare. Thank you
I think that you can make the cabled piece first, starting from the row after the cast on and finishing with cables row and a row of cast off. Now pick up less stitches on bottom and make the ribbing or whatever pattern you want for the borders. Do the same on top of the work. This way you don't need complicated calculations. (or add the top and bottom with crochet hook and crochet ribbing). Thats what I do. What do you think?
I think it sounds like you've found a solution that works for you! You must have a way to determine the smaller amount of sts that you are picking up for your border, yes?
If I switch to a larger needle for the cabled section, won’t the stitches on my seed or garter stitch border on the sides be bigger than the bottom border? Thank you!
Yep, they'll be a little smaller. You can choose to use a larger needle for everything, instead, but there will be a larger change in the stitch count when you increase for the cables. The point is to match the widths of both sections when you transition from one stitch pattern to another.
I usually use a m1 inc (typically the version where you do a YO on one row and then work it so that it twists on the next row), but a lot depends on the individual pattern and where the opportunities to place the increases are so that they are well-hidden.
Roxanne - can you please do a video on cable increases? There doesn't appear to be a lot on this topic and I know you would do an amazing job explaining it.
Do you mean the type that seem to appear out of a cable crossing, or do you mean how to place increases at the base of a cable panel at a transition point between the edging and the cable section?
No, I was referring to the situation used to create the swatches shown in the video, where you calculate the number of incs needed, and then place them within the span of sts that will become the cables. In that situation, you just need to add sts in the right place. In other situations, you might have ribbing that you want to flow into the cables, so you would place and work the increases so that the first cable crossing uses the existing knit rib to cross over, and the sts crossing under are (at least in part) made up of the new sts.
Even after watching your video about asking better questions I thought... My question is obvious... Now I see it wasn't.... What I was curious about was this technique where the cable itself gets larger... So you start with a 2x2 cable and then at the crossovers you increase the width... So first you have a 2x3 and then you have a 3x3. I don't actually have a pattern... I just saw where someone had done it and I didn't think their explanation was super clear... It left me with a lot of questions.... I always find your explanations really clear... So I thought I'd suggest the topic....
Thanks for this video, I am doing my first cable knit scarf, and this is very helpful. Do you have any tips on blocking cable knits? I’m afraid to stretch it out too much because I don’t want to flatten my cables too much, thanks.
You shouldn't need to stretch it at all. Just soak it for about half an hour, squeeze out the water, then lay it flat to dry. You can pinch the cables to perk them up a bit if they got flattened from squeezing out the water (or rolling it up in a towel).
Fascinating video Roxanne! I’m going to listen to it a few times. I really love cables. In your opinion, do most designers figure this into their patterns or is it the knitter that is making the adjustments? Thanks for the link to your article!
Some designers will figure this, and some will not. With sweaters, there tends to be more thought about the transition, and you are likely to see an increase setup row at the transition from ribbing to the main body. Simpler projects are more likely to have simpler transitions, which are then more likely to flare.
Very interesting. I have some unfinished cable projects from when we did a cable series a couple of years ago. I’ll have to take them out and see what I find. Thanks Roxanne!
Roxanne!!! This is amazing! I have a question: I’m knitting a heart cable pattern and I’m using DK yarn. My question is do I make extra stitches ALL where the cable touches the border? With 3/3 cables I add the extra stitches of course at the base of the cable, however with the heart cable stitch it starts at the center and flares out. So…. Do I just make sure all the added stitches are within those stitches that will be eventually be worked as part of the heart? Gosh I’m not even sure if that makes sense! Anyways, as usual, thank you so much!! Love from MN❤️
Omgosh: another question!! And then, IF you add the stitches into the columns where the cabling pattern is, will that change the pattern? Or just show up as extra purls on either side of the pattern? 🤦🏼♀️ lol, this ONE cabling pattern is making this infinitely more complicated than any other cabling I have used your technique to compensate for!
If you are working a traveling cable, where you have a rope of stockinette sts traveling across the background of purls, then you work the increases at the origin point of the stockinette sts, if you can. Work backwards from the number of sts needed for the cable and background to determine the number of sts needed for the border. The idea is to increase *to* the number of sts needed for the cabled area of the fabric, and adjust the number of sts in the border to avoid the border flaring and rippling.
@@RoxanneRichardson okay. That does make sense. However I think because this cable starts with a 3/3 and expands to span 24 stitches by row 13…. The cable itself is still so squished and pinched looking. And all the extra stitches I made just show up as purls. 🤦🏼♀️ I understand the REASON we add the extra stitches is so that a) the width of the piece is the correct width, and b) the cables lie on a flat background. MAYBE my issue with this particular cable pattern is that it is pinchy and tight? Like more of the issue is b) but also a bit a) 🤷🏼♀️🤔 I wonder if the math is completely different in that instance? Like I have stated, the technique you explain (perfectly) in this video has worked over so so so many other cables. Lol- I may not be thinking at the right way to fix what is happening with this one.
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!! I saw it a while ago a just stored it in my memory bank for later. It took me a while when looking for it today but once I saw it I knew it was THE one! Thanks for taking the time to share and teach the rest of us!!
You are a genius! I am about to work on a button neck wrap, that has a lovely cable down the middle of it, that I had made before. In the first one, the flare was horrible and even after blocking it, I could see it!!! Your technique suggestions are fantastic! Thanks so much!
Thank you ma'am..I have a question..where exactly is the place to increase stich..
you are an amazing person, sharing all this knowledge, wow, I feel it is possible to do a more advanced knitting project with you as a resource. Thank you Roxanne so much
I was getting ready to knit a scarf with a large cable down the middle when I happened upon your video and so glad I did. I followed your instruction to avoid flair and it came out perfect. I cast on 20 stitches, knitted my lower edge and on the last row I added 4 more stitches and it was just enough to keep the scarf even with no flair. Thank you so much for this video.
Nothing to say than thanks again! ...and again and again ... You are great! I learn a lot and l knit for about 42 years, a bit longer.
Your way to teach is formidable and not only me but so many people are gled for it!
Marvellous Roxanne. Very informative.
This is so clever. Thank you so much for sharing in such simple language.
I’m a beginner knitter. Would blocking help?
You're so smart! Thank you for this. I'm incorporating the cable motif originally slated for a baby blanket into an adult cardigan (please don't judge - I'm weird like this) and needed ideas to help with the areas requiring more precise shaping (shoulders, armscyes, neckline, etc.). A slight rearrangement of the actual cabling, plus adding some a couple of rows below the shoulder shaping will be PERFECT! Again, thank you so, so much. xx
Muchas Gracias!!! Desde Buenos Aires-Argentina
Thank you so much for this video on fixing cable flare and your article in Interweave! Now I finally understand what to do and how to do it!
Karen Barrett
this is so wonderfully informative and succinct, thank you for sharing!
Thank you so much for this video I just made a cabled hat for my granddaughter for her 18th birthday (she is graduating this year and I substitute at her high school for extra income) there was a slight cable flare , the pattern is free 'Redheart, LW5910 Road to Success Chic Hat', there is 1 decrease stitch between the rib and the cable, I thought (while knitting it) that doesn't sound right! Well it isn't right and your video helped me a lot! Thank you so much, I am now swatching different ways to make a much nicer looking hat!
Thank you. Just finished the garter edge body of a top-down cardi with a cable down the spine. Tried it on and the bottom of the cable part sticks out like a duck's tail. Will rework it tomorrow now I know how to fix it.
Thanks you so much....so many tips in less than 12 minutes....thanks again
thank you roxi , you just put me staight with the flaring or my case ``folding`` at the border
Thank you so much!
I started teaching myself to knit this past year. I finally got a dishcloth that looked like a dishcloth. Lol. I started this journey so that I could make me one of those beautiful cabled pieces that are always like $500. Although I understand the working mechanics because youse explain them well I’m starting to wonder if I’ll ever have enough knowledge to get my vision out of my head because just between you and I; although, I’ve seen many beautiful pieces that I would love in my closet. None of them quite fit that vision in my head. Well, 😊I just keep striving to know more. I’ve been trying to find patterns that would help me on my way down that path. Not having much luck there… if there are any suggestions?
Anyhow. Love you passion many blessings
Youse 😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you!
Thanks for a very informative video....I am about to start a sweater with cabling in the centre of the front, starting at the cast on with ribbing either side. You have given me some great ideas to overcome the flare. Thank you
Very educational, invaluable info. As we commence making Christmas cabled sweaters this is so timely! Roxanne u certainly rock!!
Do i always add stitches on cable? Not to purl side?
Great video but it would have been helpful if you would have explained how many stitches you added or subtracted on your swatches.
I think that you can make the cabled piece first, starting from the row after the cast on and finishing with cables row and a row of cast off. Now pick up less stitches on bottom and make the ribbing or whatever pattern you want for the borders. Do the same on top of the work.
This way you don't need complicated calculations.
(or add the top and bottom with crochet hook and crochet ribbing).
Thats what I do. What do you think?
I think it sounds like you've found a solution that works for you! You must have a way to determine the smaller amount of sts that you are picking up for your border, yes?
I try just a few rows and if they are still too wide, I unravel and pick up less stitches. Thanks for your video' I will try your way
What yarn did you use?
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ You are awesome! Thank you.
If I switch to a larger needle for the cabled section, won’t the stitches on my seed or garter stitch border on the sides be bigger than the bottom border? Thank you!
Yep, they'll be a little smaller. You can choose to use a larger needle for everything, instead, but there will be a larger change in the stitch count when you increase for the cables. The point is to match the widths of both sections when you transition from one stitch pattern to another.
is there a best increase stitch to use? i know starting and stopping cables seem to have a small hole. im wondering if you use a preferred stitch?
I usually use a m1 inc (typically the version where you do a YO on one row and then work it so that it twists on the next row), but a lot depends on the individual pattern and where the opportunities to place the increases are so that they are well-hidden.
Roxanne - can you please do a video on cable increases? There doesn't appear to be a lot on this topic and I know you would do an amazing job explaining it.
Do you mean the type that seem to appear out of a cable crossing, or do you mean how to place increases at the base of a cable panel at a transition point between the edging and the cable section?
I mean the first... I'm not sure I even understand what you mean by the second. 😊
Unless you are referring to how one starts a closed cable....
No, I was referring to the situation used to create the swatches shown in the video, where you calculate the number of incs needed, and then place them within the span of sts that will become the cables. In that situation, you just need to add sts in the right place. In other situations, you might have ribbing that you want to flow into the cables, so you would place and work the increases so that the first cable crossing uses the existing knit rib to cross over, and the sts crossing under are (at least in part) made up of the new sts.
Even after watching your video about asking better questions I thought... My question is obvious... Now I see it wasn't.... What I was curious about was this technique where the cable itself gets larger... So you start with a 2x2 cable and then at the crossovers you increase the width... So first you have a 2x3 and then you have a 3x3. I don't actually have a pattern... I just saw where someone had done it and I didn't think their explanation was super clear... It left me with a lot of questions.... I always find your explanations really clear... So I thought I'd suggest the topic....
Thanks for this video, I am doing my first cable knit scarf, and this is very helpful. Do you have any tips on blocking cable knits? I’m afraid to stretch it out too much because I don’t want to flatten my cables too much, thanks.
You shouldn't need to stretch it at all. Just soak it for about half an hour, squeeze out the water, then lay it flat to dry. You can pinch the cables to perk them up a bit if they got flattened from squeezing out the water (or rolling it up in a towel).
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks so much!
Great ,thank you .
Fascinating video Roxanne! I’m going to listen to it a few times. I really love cables. In your opinion, do most designers figure this into their patterns or is it the knitter that is making the adjustments? Thanks for the link to your article!
Some designers will figure this, and some will not. With sweaters, there tends to be more thought about the transition, and you are likely to see an increase setup row at the transition from ribbing to the main body. Simpler projects are more likely to have simpler transitions, which are then more likely to flare.
Very interesting. I have some unfinished cable projects from when we did a cable series a couple of years ago. I’ll have to take them out and see what I find. Thanks Roxanne!
Omgosh knitting math is hard, but thanks for the help!
Roxanne!!! This is amazing! I have a question: I’m knitting a heart cable pattern and I’m using DK yarn. My question is do I make extra stitches ALL where the cable touches the border? With 3/3 cables I add the extra stitches of course at the base of the cable, however with the heart cable stitch it starts at the center and flares out. So…. Do I just make sure all the added stitches are within those stitches that will be eventually be worked as part of the heart?
Gosh I’m not even sure if that makes sense!
Anyways, as usual, thank you so much!! Love from MN❤️
Omgosh: another question!! And then, IF you add the stitches into the columns where the cabling pattern is, will that change the pattern? Or just show up as extra purls on either side of the pattern? 🤦🏼♀️ lol, this ONE cabling pattern is making this infinitely more complicated than any other cabling I have used your technique to compensate for!
If you are working a traveling cable, where you have a rope of stockinette sts traveling across the background of purls, then you work the increases at the origin point of the stockinette sts, if you can. Work backwards from the number of sts needed for the cable and background to determine the number of sts needed for the border. The idea is to increase *to* the number of sts needed for the cabled area of the fabric, and adjust the number of sts in the border to avoid the border flaring and rippling.
@@RoxanneRichardson okay. That does make sense. However I think because this cable starts with a 3/3 and expands to span 24 stitches by row 13…. The cable itself is still so squished and pinched looking. And all the extra stitches I made just show up as purls. 🤦🏼♀️
I understand the REASON we add the extra stitches is so that a) the width of the piece is the correct width, and b) the cables lie on a flat background.
MAYBE my issue with this particular cable pattern is that it is pinchy and tight? Like more of the issue is b) but also a bit a) 🤷🏼♀️🤔 I wonder if the math is completely different in that instance?
Like I have stated, the technique you explain (perfectly) in this video has worked over so so so many other cables. Lol- I may not be thinking at the right way to fix what is happening with this one.
You are amazing.
Can you add Turkish language support?
Use the auto-translate feature for closed captions (click on the gear icon to select the language)
Is there a pattern somewhere for the reversible cable scarf?
Look at her list of videos. It's there!
Check out pinterest ...
I have hearing aids in both ears. There’s no background noise.
Why don't you make a video with this explanations for understanding it better. Thanks in advance.
background noise too much. cant hear you.
Hmm...I don't think it's a problem with the video. Perhaps there is a problem with your device.
Billie Allen Yeah, I didn’t hear any background noise either. I have a hearing loss in one ear and could hear you just fine.