Product Review: Logitech X-56 Rhino HOTAS For DCS WORLD
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
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"Not enough buttons on the hotas"
A few min earlier "i don't use these things" :P
also let's not forget the modifier option that dcs has.
@@predattak what works very bad at x52 and x56 btw...
don't forget modes.
1:00 Split throttle is used primarily in the case of an engine failure. Also, you start your engines independently and bump the throttles up separately.
how do u set the independent pedals to off or idle start? i mapped buttons for left and right engines separately for idle/start/shutoff
"This knobby-knobby-knob "
"and this Doo-dah"
I swear this guy sounds like Nicko McBrain from Iron Maiden :D
This is exactly what I needed, I've been looking into getting DCS and making it a big hobby of mine. I've been looking at this HOTAS set and I can't thank you enough for going over what you actually use your switches for aswell.
USAF F-16 Avionics technician here and can't wait for the F-16 DCS module
Then you can probably afford a TM Warthog or Virpil, VKB sticks.
vkb mcg pro 4 life
@@DarthVapor151 unfortunately I can't justify spending that much right off the bat getting into DCS but maybe in the next few years and if they have a variety of models I'd be interested in getting myself a fancy stick and throttle like those
@@knox721 I got the x56 getting into dcs, couple months later, and I still love it. It's pretty good, and serves my purposes. The only time I use modifier keys is for the A10C, that thing has quite a few hat switches.
I'm hyped for the f16 too, it's gonna be awesome.
@@DarthVapor151 I completely disagree with you. I used the Thrustmaster Top gun until it was completely worn out. I still has the joy stick handle itself which by the wyt is the same stick in most of the 60/70 era fighters and the helicopter I currently fly. I then moved to the Saitek X-36 which I still have and currently using the X52 Pro. In my opinion one of the the most important buttons on the Saitek/Logitech throttle joystick combinations is the Mode switch. This button allows the player to completely bind every button to a different function in 3 modes The warthog throttle does not indicate it has that ability as it is very aircraft specific. Having said that, from all of the reviews I have read and watched the Thrustmaster joystick appears to be the desired stick for sim player like myself. Again IMP the perfect combo would be the Logitek X56 throttle coupled to the Thrustmaster Joystick with the F-18 Hornet add on.
The split throttle system is a fantastic thing to have, you might not find much use for it in combat but when it comes to display flying it adds a whole new dimension to things. I've pulled off some incredible things with the split throttles on the SU-27, it also allows you to recover from spins a lot easier when you can roll back the throttle on one engine i.e with the F-14 which can be an absolute nightmare in a flat spin! I'm going to bind that scroll to zoom as well, I didn't think about using that as a zoom until this video. I've got the newer X56 (all black) and as my 1st HOTAS it's been a great introduction and one I've really got used to using a lot, pretty much everyday!
Great tip re spin recovery! Will be giving that a shot this eve :-)
yeah also there is a way of defending yourself on a dogfight called falling leaf bfm which is very useful and you need independent throttle for it so it actually does help with some stuff on combat even tho its rare but as you said its also amazing for airshows
@UCZzYhAFbGJl3d_XrvANcooQ Yeah still using it, I had to replace the base of my joystick but the throttle is still working, I had some ghosting issues last year but after re-positioning a couple of wires I didn't have any issues after that. I've looked at replacing it with a virpil set up but truth be told I have such a muscle memory with it now I really enjoy using both stick and throttle. It does have it's issues as a lot of people have reported but from a personal point of view I enjoy it.
Just bought this today and immediately got disappointed of the wobble. However after quick look, I found the design/quality flaw and as a metal smith its easy to fix. The plate under the spring is hitting its opposite bottom surface before its "in its cup". So sanding off from one or the other surface maybe 0.1mm would make it sit in the cup with zero wobble.
I'm not a metal smith - but have bought it today myself (don't even know if it will have the wobble) - can you give a little more detail on how to fix? I have a Dremel. Did u use the loosest spring like Cap did?
Got mine home, set up and it's got the representative slop/wobble. I see what the problem is for mine - and it's not the spring/cup issue as you mention. It's actually the conical grommet that slides up and down the shaft and that grommet has way to loose a tolerance. Needs a very narrow sort of sleeve to take up more of the slack. The trouble is the ability to get to the shaft unhindered by the conical grommet, is nearly impossible.
Thanks for video, very helpful. You didn’t mention use of mode switches which I understood to double or triple switch functionality. Would this solve your issue with number of switches!
@2:30 Not that many will fly formation in DCS, but one of the best ways I found to move the throttles when flying the real aircraft was to "walk the throttles" forward and back. By this I mean to move one throttle at a time as if one was crawling forward or backwards. If I then need more thrust I move the other throttle up to align with the first. By doing this one can get more precise thrust increases/decreases. Another trick is to move the throttle about one half of the width of the other throttle allowing one to gauge how much the thrust change is. Hopefully this makes sense.
I heard the twin engine guys talk about this, it’s actually not a bad way to do it. Obviously have to be cautious on the stick then I’d assume.
I’m probably going to see myself in the Rafale, and we only have a single throttle for both engines, but it’s ergonomically very handy since it’s basically another stick with all the hats and stuff on it, when I first saw it I asked the guys do they make the planes depending on pilot handedness and the officer with me laughed “c'est le contrôle des moteurs” he said 😂 now I know! It’s the throttle stick.
Nice review, Cap. With the running out of buttons problem, that's what the "M1, M2, S1" switch it for on the throttle. Coupled with the Saitek/Logitech software, it allows your stick to have 3 different configurations.
I have mine set up so Mode 1 gives me Trim on a hat switch, and Mode 2 changes that hat switch to TDC slew instead. It also swaps the launch bar button to cage/uncage (since you don't need the launch bar in the air, or cage/uncage on the ground!).
Me with the hotas X:
"You guys have buttons?"
i feel your pain, high fadelity aircraft are a pain with the TMX
@@acidiccow.63 i got a new hotas btw xd
and pedals
I started playing dcs about 6 months ago. I've been watching your videos for about a year and you influenced me on getting dcs and the x56 rhino. Getting the x56 helped me learn faster. I love how easy it is to control the aircraft. Thank you Cap. I couldn't have done it without your tutorials.
Pleasure sir
hows it going with the x56 a year later?
@@horashio1593 still in great shape! I definitely recommend it. No issues so far.
@@grimreapers 👍
@@xanvavy Nice! I am have just ordered mine so watching many reviews!
Great video - you convinced me to finally get a HOTAS controller after years of waffling, and it's totally changed my flight sim experience!
*watches all of caps formation/ tanker tutorial videos and just now is told to take friction off their joystick.
:O
I've been flying for a few months and formation/refueling is pretty instinctual to me now.
the best tip I ever got was: less is more
meaning you should apply less input than it looks like you'll be needing.
practice is key, not so much tutorials.
I usually bind 2 back switches on the throttle as modifiers, that means each switch can now have 4 different bindings with different combinations of modifiers. Overdoing it can be confusing but I tend to bind most convinient keys to multiple things. e.g. autopilot key can be ON with press and OFF with Mod1+press. Or one of 2 way switches is used for Gears, flaps, speedbrake and hook as each of those has a UP/DOWN
Cap, I've just finished repairing a 6 years-old X-55 throttle that was donated to me. Found many wires broken inside. The issue you have with the pinkie switch is most likely a broken wire and you will slowly lose more. I have the X55 stick as well but I'll never use it as I already have a Virpil T-50.
I was recently considering buying a new X-56 - (mainly for the dual throttle in place of a TWCS) but bought a G29 wheel instead as I've started ETS2 AGAIN!!
The Recon'd Rhino will keep me flying until I can pre-order a new Virpil throttle. As another reply stated, they are leagues ahead of the Saitek. Put Virpil gear on your wedding list :)
Like you, I bought x56, mainly for the intuitive Throttle layout while awaiting around for Verpil resupplies, too. The stick that came with it was just a convenient bonus!
Also....Stuart Walker, I imagine you in the park walking your Stuart King on a leash so it can pee, and maybe play with the other Dogs & Monarchs.
(Four Stuart Kings of England & Scotland: James, Charles, Charles II, James II) (Titled as Kings James V & VI in Scotland)
@@czdaniel1 Haha no, I have a scruffy mongrel who we all love very much. I now have the Virpil throttle and that's awesome too 😁
This "review":
"Here's my flight stick I got second hand, its kinda broken and I don't use half the buttons/switches. But its great for DCS!"
Why did I read that, but in my head I heard it being said in the voice of Disney's Stitch like he was doing his farewell talk to the Galactic Federation leader? lol
riptide - welcome to the grim reapers, where cap has a boner for being the big boy and has no idea how to do a review/tutorial
@@fileoffish1403 i don't know if you are being sarcastic, but after some time/videos it sure feels that way.
This tells you, you don't need a extravagant setup as long as you got a stick and a throttle your good to go.
Bonkikavo I’m not being sarcastic, he’s just genuinely not a good youtuber (when it comes to tutorials)
My first HOTAS was a Saitek back in the days of Jane's F15. USB didn't exist then. It was a full saitek HOTAS and I used it for all the Jane's. When USB came along I upgraded to a saitek USB hotas... forget which. 3rd was the one with the LCD display. Had it for years. Very reliable. Only sold it when I went insane and bought a Warthog HOTAS. I really learned to program the Saitek X52 Pro in-depth. Had 3 sets of functions for each control selected with the rotary mode wheel. I've learned to do the same with the Warthog.
Would you say Warthog is worth the money? I've been on the fence about x56 vs Warthog for a few days now and as usual I keep seeing positive as well as negative reviews on both of them. Not sure if I want to spend twice as much money on Warthog comparing to x56.
Cap, the three position switch on the throttle body can be configured in Logitech software. This gives you three times as many switches etc. I'm just really learning how the software works and how to set the controllers up to be most efficient however I have the three position switch set as Position M1 for taxi, take off and landing, and M2 for combat. It does work because very rarely would you be doing taxi, take off/landing and combat at the same time.
You can also configure the analog controllers to be switches dependant on their position etc.
The X-56 is really configurable if you step away from the DCS binding which is some what limiting.
There are some great vids on UA-cam you should have a look at.
@@mackan072 i find its the opposite. if you sit and configure all of your aircraft with DCS and then, reinstall the game or have a system failure you have to do all that work again. using the logitech profiler i have created custom profiles for four aircraft now, using all three modes for each profile. these are saved and backed up..i just need to load them and as they are basically macro generators anyway (they emulate keyboard presses) i do not need to change dcs from its default commands. it does take time but if you do it properly you only have to do it once per aircraft and you can then load it up on a new system and it would work instantly.
ok thx
Holy shit Andrew. Are you trying to tell me that the X56 allows different functions on all the toggles when selecting M1, M2, and S1?
@@abdulmismail Yes it does. I'm very new to this but it sounds like it's fairly common knowledge.
I need to spend more time with the profiler but I think it will make a massive difference.
One other thing guys. Instead of cutting the spring to free up the movement, I just clamped a couple of the springs coils with cable ties. You can then tailor the spring strength even more.
I’ve got my throttle base set as left knob, trim rudder, up down switch on back side tail hook extend retract, then the buttons, flare and chaff. Switches on top right are left right engine start and stop, the refuel probe extend retract, last one jettison tanks, weapons. Bottom switches flaps, gear, air brake. Buttons on throttle side are radar on off, ecm the blue button, then trim up down, left right wing down. Bottom one hud controls. Mouse stick is my zoom.
Stick, up right hat, TDC slew. Bottom scan. Main hat is either jester, or for others it changes to what I need. Mouse stick button is unlock target, blue button on right side is target lock. Blue on front is weapon select. Bottom pinky lever..wheel brake, button behind it cannon.
I'm not sure if I'll get anything out of this comment but maybe somebody else will.
I'm an amateur in this kind of "advanced" hardware. I bought the X-56 about 2 months ago and before that I owned a less sophisticated Logitech joystick with fewer buttons and such. I plugged the X-56 in and went straight to playing DCS. I have Arma 3 and War Thunder but I never got around to playing them. The set up with CAP's help was easy and had no initial issues with the X-56. Then out of the blue about a week or so ago the game appeared to not detect the main axes of my joystick. All the buttons and even the mini joystick seemed to be working and was receiving input but not the main axes. After trying a few things inside the game to fix it I was getting no where so I went and tried testing to see if it was a game issue or a hardware issue. I opened up the game controllers testing program and saw that it was not registering the main axes at all similar to that of what I saw in the DCS set up menu.
I was starting to think that there was a physical issue with the joystick but before I went through the trouble of opening it up and looking inside I figured I would go and ask someone who is more tech savvy than me on what may be the issue. First thing they told me after a short conversation was that I need to install a driver for the X-56. I didn't know I needed this but after a brief explanation on why and how to do it I immediately went and did just that. I downloaded the latest version and opened up the driver's program and went in to calibrate my axes. After calibrating the axes both the driver program and the game controllers testing program were now registering the main axes and were detecting movement. Both of these programs were detecting my exact movements.
I thought sweet now it works and raced over to reopen DCS and see if everything was working. I got into my plane and found that the game was detecting the joystick but now I had a new problem and one that as of right now I don't know how to fix. For some reason the joystick is stuck in a forward and to the left position. Without me touching the joystick the game immediately has the joystick stuck in that position. It's not until I pull the stick in the complete opposite direction that the game detects that I'm pulling back on the stick.
I thought this was maybe just a DCS problem but to be sure I opened up two of my other flying games (War Thunder and Arma 3) to see if that had the same issue and they did. After seeing this I immediately went and opened back up the driver program and the testing program. When the stick is in the neutral position, or with no input, the testing screen and the driver's screen had it digitally in the center or 'neutral' position and when I physically put input into the joystick it detected it and did not show that the joystick was stuck in the position that I had previously stated it was in. As far as the testing and driver programs were aware of everything is working perfectly fine but when I try to use my joystick in my video games it is going into a stuck position and wont move until I move the stick in the total opposite direction.
I've tried scouring the web to see if anyone has had a similar issue but it appears not and I've tried doing literally everything underneath the sun to try and figure out why this is happening. I've uninstalled and reinstalled both the driver and the video games themselves yet I continue to have a reoccurring problem. At this point I'm pretty frustrated and starting to think that I wasted money on this product but I hope its just that I'm unaware of what the true problem is and its just an easy fix.
If anybody has come across a similar problem and know the solution please help me.
I have sent an email to Logitech detailing my problem and hoping to hear a solution soon but I don't know if I'll get one.
The last thing I'll probably try after typing all this out is figuring out a way to uninstall the drivers completely and see if that somehow fixes the issue but I don't think that will. If I do figure out the problem, I'll definitely be coming back to this to help out anybody else if they have a similar issue.
P.S. my throttle and its buttons and switches is working correctly and has no issues.
I had a similar problem, and I suggest you unplug all other devices that it could be taking input from, e.g: xbox controller, racing wheel, and try it again because it can take axis input from them without you assigning them.
@@bradythecuber696 Hey thanks for the suggestion but I don't think that's the issue. I've never used any other type of controllers like the ones you suggested before on my computer. The only thing I've used before the X56 is a Logitech 3D flight stick. Every time I've tried using the X56 the other flight stick has been unplugged from the computer and to my knowledge there were never any drivers installed for that one that might be effecting the X56.
My understanding from what I've been reading online that once you use a device on a computer it creates a data registry of that device. I don't know if the data registry from the other flight stick is effecting the X56 or if the old registry it created before I installed the drivers for the X56 is creating the issue.
I got an email back from tech support I've narrowed down two possible areas of where the issue may be coming from.
The first is that of the data registry. The old one may interfering with the drivers in a way I don't understand and may need to be wiped in order for the driver software to rewrite a new one to fix the problem. The problem with this is, as I have mentioned before I'm not tech savvy and there is a warning from tech support basically saying that you better know what your doing when wiping the data registry because if you do something wrong you can mess up the Operating System (OS) and have to reinstall your computer's software. I'm just not quite yet at that point of desperation to try that and run the risk of messing my computer up.
The next possible issue and the one I'm hoping is the problem as I'm hoping is the most likely is that the X56 control stick and throttle require (or prefer) a USB 2.0 port and not a 3.0 or 3.1. I have come to find out that I have only USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports and it looks like I do not have 2.0. My hope is and something I have to research is that I can get an adapter of some sort that will turn it into a 2.0. I don't know if this is possible as my research up to this point tell me that the different ports process input information coming from the devices at different speeds. The 2.0 is slower than the 3.0 and I'm not sure if an adapter is capable exists or is even capable of solving the issue.
That's where I'm at so far. tech support gave me a direct link to their drivers so I'm going to again uninstall and reinstall their drivers and see if that works. Since its late at night as of me writing this I'll probably look into the USB port thing tomorrow and try to report back my finding for anyone who should come upon this thread.
You can use the memory switch in key mapping. So memory mode 1 you can use for no combat essentials such as landing, takeoff and air refuel. Once you take off switch to mode 2 for combat controls. So basically you have the ability to assign 3 functions to one button. The mode would dictate that current button command
I've never used the memory mode but its a very good idea.
@@grimreapers you can assign each mode as a modifier key under the "modifiers" button. Select the throttle joy stick and turn the selector. Then add. When mapping your keys just select what mode under modifier and then map your key.
Great to see this. After watching many of your videos this is very insightful.
Hey Cap,
The M1, M2 and S1 select switch is for the X56 software, it allows you to have the controls binded 3 times using the different modes and allows you to switch between. I.e I have M1 for general flight, with most of it binded to things like flaps, gear, lights, autostart and all that, M2 for when I know I'm engaging so most of its binded for weapons etc and I have S1 free
thx
I have a new one. Been a blast trying to break it in. The steel switches on the throttle I use for engine start, canopy open & close, landing gear and such.
I gotta get me one of those... the blue one is my favorite bc my favorite color is blue lol
For your information you can use the mini stick as a hat switch. This can be achieved in the programming section of the x 56 by setting the mini stick with zones eg. Y axis 0-30% to select sparrows (LShift + W), Y axis 70-100% to select gun (LShift + X), X axis 0-30% to select AMRAAM (LShift + D) and X axis 70-100% to select sidewinder (LShift + S).
thx
3:30 I have the X56 as well... the wheel on the throttle near where your pinkie finger would sit is actually like a mouse wheel. It is two "button" type assignments, one for up and one for down. I use this for elevator trim adjustment, up and down. Just a suggestion as a possible usage of that X56 feature... Cheers!
Would you recommend buying the X56? I’ve been mulling it over for weeks but cant decide..
@@parkercook288 do it now and know that it's a fantastic setup. Get the Logitech Pro Flight Rudder pedals to go with it and ull have everything a pilot could ever want for under $500.
HiJinx79 awesome, I think I’ll do it. Thank you so much
DCS, in the hornet at least let’s you use an analogue input for the slew. Need to fiddle with dead zones and saturation to make it usable, but once setup it’s great.
Thinking of getting the x56 with the quest 2, kinda expensive but want to treat myself, been watching dcs vids for ever and cannot wait to jump in 💪🇿🇦
Cap, wobble is not good in the stick. Why? Because that area you're calling frictionless has a hard edge, and that hard edge is what's going to mess you up. Yes, low force is good, I guess, but having that edge is only going to hurt your flying because the boundary will magnify your movement at the point of crossing it. You've gotten around it by experience, but it's still not _beneficial_.
Can confirm. I play Elite and any play in the hotas (Which also tends to worsen over time) not only fucks up the way the sensors respond to movement past the play but also fucks your muscle memory super hard the worse it gets. Sure you can circumvent it with pilot skill but its is FAR from ideal
hey cap,
when it comes to having another slew/4way/button, remember you have modifiers.
you can add/assign them from dcs options menu. i have 4 modifiers ( 3 buttons and one switch )
Normal - control of core weaponry and flight
Mod 1 push - Sensors slew, depress, weaponry settings,
Mod 2 push - radar controls: Missile Guidance
Mod 3 push - mostly knee pad/Misc
Mod 4 switch - standardsits on normal and when is switched on it becomes the Landing/ takeoff/Refuel and misc
thx
Maybe you've figured this out since, but you can bind the throttle slider to a keyboard button in the software, then it works perfectly in DCS. I have it set to air brakes. Might be able to free up one of the throttle sticks for something else!
Cap, this is a very thorough review and it's what convinced me to buy this joystick. I've had mine for a few days and I've flown a few hours with it in DCS and I love it to bits over my old X52 Pro. I'm using the mini joysticks for controlling camera view (I don't have TrackIR or VR) and it's a hell of a lot better than a hat switch for looking around in a dogfight.
There are only two things I wish were different: 1) is that little bit of movement around the centre on the stick, wish that wasn't there but a small dead zone sorted it and it's not a problem. And 2) would be that slider switch be a 3 position slider switch, so it could be like the airbrakes switches on most jets that have 3 positions. Apart from that, it is marvelous, even perfect. I love it.
"You can't touch my stick it's better than bacon"
Just got here from Bad Lip Reading: The Last Jedi and couldn't resist the Dark Side.
A fellow man of culture
@@goat6354 That's weird; I was just staring at goats.
Thanks for the vid CAP. Got mine last week and very happy with it.
copy man
I use one of the rotary's on the bottom of the throttle on the HMD for the Hornet, works perfectly
cool
Great vid Cap. It gave me some additional idea for keys bindings.
You said you run out of buttons on the joystick. If you incorporate the rotary mode selector you can add the few additional buttons you need. I use it in this manner.
Mode 1: All ground operations....start, taxi, takeoff, approach, landing, taxi, securing.
Mode 2: Air to ground combat operations
Mode 3: Air to air combat operations
Again thanks for the vid.
Hi, how did you get the mode selector to work? Thanks
The mode buttons only work if you use the software to configure the modes. If not using the software then they just become extra buttons. I use the Mode buttons for my a10c light control, but might rebind them to something else thats a 3 way switch.
I have the older, basic, Logitech X52 and it is about time to upgrade. Thanks for doing this, I had been thinking about the thrustmaster but then I would also have to buy pedals and my feet are arthritic, so doing the yaw with the stick just works alot better.
But you could do the same with the 16000, no? 🤔
Take the 20-60 minutes to clean your desk cap XD gotta keep that cockpit fresh. Great video btw
The second turny analog thing @ 4:20 is actually good for the radar antenna elevation up/down
You can prob replace the 4 way switch easy. Best comment. "I use this button all the time but I dont know what I use it for" Bahaha Love ya Cap
Wow, the timing of this video is perfect, I was just looking into getting one of these
The quality control on them is awful, you may get an ok one or you may get a terrible one that will stop working after a few weeks
Same!
@6:26 -- Maybe useful for a Microphone Mute/Unmute button in multiplayer. Make MUTE default, but transmits when you thumb engages the unmute-switch. It can be convenient if more people were more selective about what noises they transmit during multiplayer!! 6:26
If you can't do what you want with the buttons you have, but you want to avoid using the keyboard, try something like Voice Attack. VA will let you handle it at least two ways. You can make it a simple voice command, where a voice command triggers a keypress, or you can simply designate a two-button command - button A and button B in conjunction will execute the command.
I used that same knob for the zoom but the screen started jittering if it was between two clicks. At first I thought my expensive new graphics card was the problem and was really panicked for a couple of days.
Now I use that silver four way button just below, back and forward zoom, up center Track IR , down freeze Track IR.
A couple of days ago I discovered Voiceattack, particularly good for the comms menu - I can just say “Function 2” or whatever instead of fumbling for the mouse.
Thanks for the review Cap, I have one of these coming second hand from a friend :-)
You're only using a 3rd of your button options. The M1, 2, 3 are modes. So I use M1 for takeoff and landing.
M2 for combat
M3 for bombing.
You need the logitech profiler for rhino to set it up.
Hope that helps.
thx
It's pretty unhandy. I have X52, there is mode selector too, but I profiled it as three buttons instead and use pinky switch as modifier, it's more than enough and I can do all the actions having hands on throttle and stick. X56 have even more buttons.
damn, is there any way you can share your profiler & lua files? sounds interesting!
Just picked this up off Amazon brand new for £170 if people are interested in getting one.
I think for people who want to experience DCS as close to actually flying a real Jet this is a must have piece of kit.
Nice overview, thanks.
Like others said, modifiers can help a lot. I use a much simpler joystick with just one 4-way switch and no Track IR so modifiers are essential. It's obviously not so critical for you but it would help you with the missing 4-way switches for the Hornet and others. Looking at your setup, I think the unused "little wobbly" on the thrust stick would be a great candidate. Bumping it wouldn't do anything but it could act as a modifier if you kept it deflected. You don't need 4 modifiers so you could pick just one direction.
I still use the X55 throttle. The SLD can be programmed to use for airbrakes.. I use the left rotary switch on throttle to switch the kneeboard pages.. Lower rotary for radar range. The switches on the base from front to back is set for kneeboard show/hide, mark. i use the next 3 for modes in FC3 aircraft. Then flaps on lower left.
I rather like the rotaries for zoom. Good for spotting, especially since I fly in 4k.
I have the Logitech X56, got it from an Auction for $200 Canadian. It's amazing.
Was it an online auction? Would be interested to know if you can share the details. Thanks.
@@JJ1025 it's a local one near where I live. Town of 1000
You know you can double up the joystick hat functions by using the pinkie as an alt switch. ie, you hold in the pinkie and use one of the four ways for your tdc. Since im still on dial-up and only play single player, I have all the wingmen commands on hat switches also by using the pinkie.
I realise you wouldnt want to learn something new now, but fyi.
I use a Thrustmaster T16000M FCS with the TWCS throttle and rudder pedals. I also don't have enough buttons and such on the HOTAS, but I get by using modifiers. I could confuse the poor Cap by showing him some of my binding sheets...though I do tend to keep a similar control scheme in each of the aircraft I have...mostly...
Thank you for the review. On the DCS ED official forum people complaining on poor wiring inside the stick and throotle which causes most switches not operating after about one year. But I never treated my sticks with brute force, so I think if I buy X56 it will serve me for long time. And I know how to use a soldering iron to fix it if required.
Had mine for 3 years and used every day. 1 button is sticking but everything else is good.
3:05 good to know cap
One of the best reviews/tutorial that I have viewed.
ALSO CAP YOU CAN SET MODIFIERS. Use a button you dont use as a modifier, then you can use a hat switch for your TDC
instead of binding it to say "pov hat 1 0" itll bind it to "button you don't use + pov hat 1 0" and won't send conflicting signals. message me if you need help with this ill give you my discord
i could get you flying 100 percent no keyboard
He cleaned his desk! I'm so proud cap!
:) :) :) :) I did it!!!!
The two analong sticks also have clicky buttons. So, you can slew the tdc with it then, lock by clicking the stick.
Thanks for this CAP, very interesting. My only issue with the Human Computer Interface is the human part...
the M1,M2 and S1 is diffrent prtofiles on the throttle maby the stick aswell but u can change profiles so u can have more buttons on your throttle
Good call. Mode switches to switch between different button-set maps have been on the more feature-heavy joystick combos for a long time now.
i use the pinky rotary dial for chaff/flare, works great can send a stream of them quick. it registers as a button press every click of the wheel. 31 in one direction and 32 in the other. you also absolutely can use the thumb stick for tdc slew. its in the axis commands category, theres tdc slew mouse, which you dont want, and underneath that theres "throttle designator controller" which will work to assign it. i use tdc slew on the throttle stick and mouse on the joystick stick. i tried to set mine up according to real world layout with some compromises obviously. fit everything else i need from the panel switches on the metal toggles, use the 2 rotarys for HMD brightness and RWR volume. so far love this stick.
I just got my LOGITECH G X56 brand new from Microcenter for $250. It definitely has a ton of buttons and customizations.
Unfortunately it definitely doesn't feel as sturdy as my Saitek X45 in some places.
Couldn't beat it for the price. It's got more buttons and mini sticks than the WARTHOG or VIRPIL.
Your choice of no friction it resistance are interesting. Flying real planes I will intentionally midterm to add friction to dampen my controls to make my fine movements more controlled.
Interesting... personal taste?
@@grimreapers certainly personal taste. The Blue Angles actually use a spring in their stuck to constantly pull noise down force on the stick. They reason it dampens out their movements.
I really love the channel. I've enjoyed watching your missing and training. It's made me interested in DCS. Unfortunately I'm too busy flying real planes to try it.
Cap for my X52 Pro, I leave the windows USB game controller settings open during gameplay for all games, because for some reason that activates more buttons for binding. If you have trouble with keybinds for some switches, try opening that windows USB settings with all the red dots and try the bind again. Might work.
Thanks for the ideas. If you ever need another one, maybe you should consider the older X55 instead, as the main difference is that the joystick has another 4-way thumbstick instead of the little analogue (you said you wished you had another one of these).
Cap got the X-56 as well but a little different setup. On the throttle I bind the airbreak to the rotation switch on the left throttle, flags on sw3/4 & gear on sw6. Depending on the airframe sw5 is refuel or night vistion. For me at least the protection of sw1->6 is lovely :)
The Mode Selector on your throttle allows you to have three different mappings and switch between them.
I thought this guy would have a god tier cockpit setup.
I was disappointed with that monitor. I expected god tier.
Its crazy how Cap has the same HOTAS life that I want (started off on thrustmaster HOTAS X, just got the X56, and want to get the Winwing Orion when my X56 dies)
OH MY GOD. I have had an X-65F for like SIX YEARS, and I never realized that the mini-stick was depressable until this video.
lols silly
those knobs would be perfect to trip the rudder and such
Lol, I have the same sticks. First hotas was the thrustmaster X and then the x-56. I still use the thrustmaster X for games like Battlefield.
i use the Thrustmaster T16000M and plan to get this one. the pinky wheel on hotas is briliant for f14 Tomcat DLC flaps (extremely helpful when landing, especially on carrier).
for TDC slew analog you have to go to axis controls niot button controls, but I bet you know that by now
Back in the days I had a Saitek X36 Hotas. I loved it, but it only lasted about 6 months and it became erratic and unusable. Then I bought some CH products and they're still in perfect condition after almost 10 years of use.
Thanks for this. I'm picking one of these up on Monday
@@TacticalError Was that the Saitek model or the newer Logitech one? I've been reading up over the last week and apparently the Logitech one has improvements over the Saitek model. But yes, someone else recommended the T16000m to me as well. A lot cheaper too.
@@TH33QUALIZ3R T16000 is a very good stick although it does have a couple of issues. one, it is very limited with buttons. You may be able to get around that with modifiers but it is not ideal. Two, the spring is very stiff. There is a way to mod the stiffness but it can be difficult to get right and requires disassembly. I switched to a ch fighterstick which I very much like, although it also has a couple of issues but works very well with the modern jets as the stick is a copy of the F16.
@@TacticalError Hmm... You may have just pissed on my fire two days before it was even lit but with good reason. Better to hear this now rather than after I've bought it. Thanks for the heads up, I'm going to look into this. 👍
I'm sure this is way too late but I'm doing it anyway. I use the pinky switch that you use for brakes, as a modifier switch. Then it basically doubles all the buttons you have, ull never run out again!
I wish I could use the mode switch to change between control setups. Like position 1 would be for startup, takeoff, and landing, position 2 would change the bindings to be better suited for air/air, position 3 would be for air/ground.
I can't see why you cannot do this. If (for instance) a joystick/throttle has 32 "inputs" (toggle switches, hats, two position switches, temp on switches etc) they will be mapped as switches 1-32. When you switch to Mode 2, the switches are mapped as 33-56, and the same for Mode 3, another 32switches. You SHOULD be able to map them seperately. The problem is toggling your mode in flight. This can be a HUGE problem, but you seem to have the solution. I would use Mode 1 for startup, takeoff, and landing and mode 2 for air-to-air combat AND air-to-ground if you can restrict your switch mapping this efficiently. Another alternative is a "button box" or even a second keyboard to map your switches. Good luck Commander.
If you master air to air refuelling and formation flying on the X56 you can officially apply for a pilots position in the military
I randomly bought this because it was on sale, renewed on amazon for $170, then I got into DCS, while waiting for it to arrive I was exposed to you and your site, knowing how cool and informative you are I would have paid triple the price.
Seen lots of bad reviews about this controller (even the Logitech one) and a bunch of good reviews so I decided to roll the dice and get this controller for Elite Dangerous.
Cap, you can assign analog axis for TDC slew in f18, it's been fixed for some time ago now
will try soon
i just ordered mine :) im stoked
Wish I had a hand rest on my CH stick..great idea. Nice tutorial btw
i would use pinky control on stick as a modifier to double its inputs
"Nats cock!" HAha never heard that before but made me ROFL! Thanks for the review! Getting this delivered on Monday so buzzing with excitement right now! :D
This HoTAS is an F16 one, putting things into perspective the Warthog F16 HOTAS is a 1000$ and this one is like 300$, cheap but can work, however would be better for you to use it with VR
Great explanation,, Thank u alot .
Nice review, I’m planning to get in DCS world (now i have a bit more free time) and I wanted to buy the X-56, seems like an excellent stuff for beginning
Update: I bought the new Logitech X56 HOTAS with Saitek Pro flight rudder pedals. At first I returned the HOTAS because the rotaries (Zoom) on the throttle provided severe flickering/jittering. I received a replacement with the exact same issue (probably faulty potentiometers), it was a bit frustrating. I didn't want to send it back and forward for eternity (I wanted to play), so I did some research and kinda solved the flickering rotary zoom problem by filtering the input with a 3rd party software. The other problem is the throttle movement is heavy or sticky, not as easy to adjust as you did in the video, even on lightest setting. I got used to the stiff movement of the throttle levers (I don't really do formation flying), but I saw some people disassembled the throttle and removed the thick grease/lube from the mechanism to make it easier to adjust, I haven't tried it but maybe that is also a way. Anyway, now I am happy with my HOTAS.
I use a different stick setup, however one thing I very recently changed is my stick position, for years I've flown with a side stick and thought my stick was going to hell in a handbasket.... nah non of that it was my stick in a very uncomfortable position. Its now set central and my precision has gone up a lot. I no longer wobble and or over compensate.
I've noticed a huge increase in precision by mounting my Warthog stick in the center, especially with a 150mm extension. It helps a lot with prop planes in IL-2 where you're using machine guns and cannons in dogfights, but also improves the handling of DCS jets, especially the F-14 Tomcat.
cap, I don''t have my hotas yet, but the slider espiecially and some of the hats, sticks, etc can be set as like analogue/button/ all different modes in the logi x56 software, if its anything like the x52. worth a shot looking,
Edit, I do have the x52 right now, x56 is in the mail, just wanted to maybe help you get some use. I have a few hats mapped as like d pads for weapon selection so its like 8 buttons instead of a pov hat. also, the m switches can be configured in the software too, it allows for different bindings for different modes of your choosing, like if you want air to ground keybinds, and air to air keybinds on seperate modes.
Thanks Cap! After your review I had to buy this! Found a refurbished one on Amazon and it works great. See you in the skies!
Hey Cap. I don’t have the X-56 yet but have worn out 2 X-36,s and and currently using an X-52.
As Andrew Booth stated the M1, M2 and M3 is a mode select switch. I use M1 for start, taxi, t/o, landing , engine shut down and any other miscellaneous ground operations. M2 is air to ground opps and M3 is air to air combat.
I set each button with its own macro and create an aircraft profile using the programming software. Yes it takes time but you truly can customize the controls. Using this method allows you to program every button to a different function. On both the X-36 and X-52 there is a slider button called a pinkie button. Think of this as a shift action. By engaging this pinkie button you can program every button again in all three modes.
This is the way I do it. Hope it helps someone.
literally the wierdest mapping in game ever!
Bought one of these about a year ago, had to return it due to issues - got a new one, which was almost as bad... Now I have gotten a Virpil Constellation instead. About 5x the price, but the quality simply does not compare. Still use the X56 throttle, for now, but that will get swapped out as well.
I was really happy with my X52 Pro for many years, so I don't know how they managed to fuck this one up so bad. Throttle module isn't terrible though, but mine still has issues (idle issues, even with deadzone set).
Nice video, thanks
Mode switch gives you x3 the buttons, i've only got the x52 but I use the mode 1 for land so start up, taxing, Mode 2 flight mode trim settings wing sweep , Mode 3 for air/ground attack. If that makes sense.
I think you sold me the Warthog. Great review though. 👍
i am really really impressed with the warthog kit. Thx Thrustmaster!
I watched this vid when Cap first posted it but didn't notice the blinking AirPort Extreme router blinking. Prob needs update.
Awesome Video Cap, I have my mind on an x56 in the near future.. James and I now have a Delanclip each, thanks for the recommendation. gonna make things a bit more accessible in the heat of battle especially when recording :)
copy see u tomorrow
@@grimreapers Roger
looking at that keyboard and the hotas, we all know where all the money went lmao
This is the stick I'm going to get