Very, very clear description about how to get some more power into you Scandi cast. I am adding Scandi/Underhand to my toolbox this summer, and I have found that you and Henrik Mortensen give the best video guidance. KlausF refuses to acknowledge that he drifts. In his speyclave videos he is too busy selling Scandi by claiming that Scandi is superior to Skagit, while not actually explaining the nuts-and-bolts / blocking-and-tackling of the cast. You do a great job in this video (and others) of describing the importance of a slow lift, slow & flat sweep, modest drift, and positive stop. Your video about trying to break the rod between your hands to get a strong positive stop is also a great one. Thanks much.
Tim, as always a great video. Could you advise the rod weight you are using and describe the line set up? You reference using a "short" Scandi shooting head. Is this like a Rio "short" scandi head or is it a longer scandi head you cut down to make it even shorter ? You reference using a long leader but are you attaching a floating tip to the head before the long leader or going from the scandi head right into the long leader? I use a Loop 11'6" 7wt. switch rod and a Loop recommended switch line system which has a 263 gr.,19.7' head connected to a 10' 77gr., floating tip connected to a 15'-17' leader. In your Aventik switch rod review you mentioned cutting down a line for that rod for use as a scandi setup what lines, weight length etc, are you cutting down to end up with what specific line. Thanks for your help.
The reason I don’t always mention the rod etc is because the casting method works with Scandi heads in general. I Wii say the rod I use is very stiff. It’s a guideline Lecie 13’7” 8/9 with a customized Airlo Scandi compact head. I was unsatisfied with a 18’ level mono leader so I used an Airflo intermediate 10’ polyleader with a 7’ tippet and it turned over very good. I think the head weighs 430 grains about. I prefer very quick stiff rods. Softer rods will work but require a longer forward stroke. Hope this helps !
Hi Tim, haven't commented on one of your videos for a while although I think I've watched them all. I've seen Klaus Fremor comment on the need to modify scandi heads, like you have, but I've never seen any specifics. Is that something you could make a video on. Thanks for all the great content
Very, very clear description about how to get some more power into you Scandi cast. I am adding Scandi/Underhand to my toolbox this summer, and I have found that you and Henrik Mortensen give the best video guidance. KlausF refuses to acknowledge that he drifts. In his speyclave videos he is too busy selling Scandi by claiming that Scandi is superior to Skagit, while not actually explaining the nuts-and-bolts / blocking-and-tackling of the cast. You do a great job in this video (and others) of describing the importance of a slow lift, slow & flat sweep, modest drift, and positive stop. Your video about trying to break the rod between your hands to get a strong positive stop is also a great one. Thanks much.
Thanks 🙏 for sharing and also demonstrating right handed.
Tim, as always a great video. Could you advise the rod weight you are using and describe the line set up? You reference using a "short" Scandi shooting head. Is this like a Rio "short" scandi head or is it a longer scandi head you cut down to make it even shorter ? You reference using a long leader but are you attaching a floating tip to the head before the long leader or going from the scandi head right into the long leader? I use a Loop 11'6" 7wt. switch rod and a Loop recommended switch line system which has a 263 gr.,19.7' head connected to a 10' 77gr., floating tip connected to a 15'-17' leader. In your Aventik switch rod review you mentioned cutting down a line for that rod for use as a scandi setup what lines, weight length etc, are you cutting down to end up with what specific line. Thanks for your help.
The reason I don’t always mention the rod etc is because the casting method works with Scandi heads in general. I Wii say the rod I use is very stiff. It’s a guideline Lecie 13’7” 8/9 with a customized Airlo Scandi compact head. I was unsatisfied with a 18’ level mono leader so I used an Airflo intermediate 10’ polyleader with a 7’ tippet and it turned over very good. I think the head weighs 430 grains about. I prefer very quick stiff rods. Softer rods will work but require a longer forward stroke. Hope this helps !
Hi Tim, haven't commented on one of your videos for a while although I think I've watched them all.
I've seen Klaus Fremor comment on the need to modify scandi heads, like you have, but I've never seen any specifics. Is that something you could make a video on.
Thanks for all the great content