not going against how you make props but wouldn't the wood grain be good in this case because it's a valyrian steel dagger which is technically a Damascus dagger?
Hi Bill (and everyone else reading) With timber (wood), you can use oil and wet & dry paper (finer grades for finer finish) to get a really smooth finish. Tung Oil (for floors) is great. It usually dries in a gloss but that can also be sanded afterward to make it a matt finish. First coat will fill the grain. Keep applying coats to get desired thickness. Can even be polished or buffed with lambswool pad to get a super shiny finish.
@@punishedprops Thanks Bill - That last post was done before I finished watching the video. Just a point to "the weird" bit on your handle after painting - It looked a bit like a thumb print. You might want to mention to everyone next time that the oil from your skin can stuff up a nice paint job. So - clean the surfaces before painting and/ or use gloves to handle things when painting. Otherwise - Great Job!!!
Sarin Draven not sure I would agree. It isn’t really important to the story, it’s just the Doctor’s signature tool. That’s what it was designed to be - just handy
Please make Arya's Needle from wood! Would be interesting to see how you would do the details of the decorative guard and pommel etc and also get the shape of the thin blade from wood...
First one that comes to mind is Anakin's/Luke's blue lightsaber. It played a big part in the original trilogy and is playing a bigger role in the new movies it seems.
Sometimes I just want one prop and don't need to make copies, so I don't make a mold. If I wanted copies I could totally do that, but it's helpful to show how to finish a prop without making a mold or casting it.
How likely is the mold making process likely to have a negative effect on a completed original work of craftsmanship like this? Does it matter when you make a mold for mold quality?
It depends on how you make your mold. If you're doing a simple 2-part mold and don't need to cut it open and your prop is WELL sealed, then you could mold it just fine.
A good way I've found to get rid of wood grain is to first prime the peice, then give it just one or two coats of plastidip spray, the spray can stuff is fine and can be bought at any home improvement store ive found and then primed again and painted as usual
That's a great option if you aren't trying to get a gloss finish. PlastiDip has a bit of a surface texture that doesn't work as well for gloss paint jobs.
Two main uses of sanding sealer: one; 'fills' porous woods so they wont absorb too much stain, oil, paint etc, and two; raises the wood grain and hardens the surface for more effective sanding - as you figured out. Thanks for sharing your techniques - great result.
Other pivotal props: * Captain Picard's Flute * Captain Cisco's Baseball * LaForge's Visor * The Dark Crystal * The One Ring * The Holy Grail * Heisenberg's Blue Meth * Mr Freeze's Gun (Across Multiple Animated Series) * Captain America's Shield * Mjolnir * Excalibur * The Sword in the Stone * Darksaber
The General Lee, from dukes of hazzard (could even add daisy dukes here too) Magnum PI's ferrari Horatio Caine's snuglasses (CSI Miami) Henry Blakes Fishing Hat (MASH)
The One Ring The Wardrobe (if that can be counted as a prop) The Ark Sankara Stones The Colt Necronomicon Kandarian Dagger Freddy's glove Scissor Blade Leatherface's chainsaw Philosopher's/Sorcerer's Stone Elder Wand Tom Riddle's Diary The Sword of Gryffindor Goblet of Fire Triwizard Cup
Oh this makes me so happy. I’ve been making swords using this exact method that I figured out on my own for like 3 years 😁 same tools same materials and the same filler primer
To your opening question of a pivotal prop in a story: I've always wondered if it might be possible to build the Glaive from Krull without having to resort to expensive 3D printing.
Expensive 3d printing? Its only as expensive as you let it be. Can get a good machine for less than $250 and material is pennies on the dollar vs most other prop making materials.
@@billsmith4932 Well, if you did spend the $250 on the printer then you'd just have to make more props for yourself in order to justify the cost then. But I do get where you're coming from, $250 is a bit much to spend when all you want is just one prop. But honestly, if you can scrounge up the $250 you just have to make more props to help make up for the cost.
Dude that's friggin gorgeous. It looked incredible before the dry brushing but that really brought out the details and aged it nicely. Killer work I'm super impressed
Nice build, very impressive. I use Alclad lacquers for modelling - they're such a great finish. Also, I don't know if anyone already mentioned it, but those metal cutting bits are called burrs.
I'm using sanding-sealer for all my wood-props (so basically all my props), first layer to get it rough so I can sand it down, and then usually two more layers with only a little bit of sanding usually give me great results
my only question regarding the dagger, isnt the end of the hilt supposed to have dragons glass in it? also from experience working with models, gluing to paint will not last after time, i would have pinned the jems with wire. maybe a snipped paperclip would hold them in place better and longer. those jems may fall out after the paint gets older.
The one ring from Lotr Skywalker family lightsaber from Star Wars The infinity stones from the MCU Tony Stark's Arc reactor That's what I thinking of for other provotal props
A friend of mine gifted us a bunch of brushes, some of those have a singular bristle... he used those to paint eyelashes in porcelain dolls, I have never find anything that merits that kind of precision so thanks to give me and idea what kind of project I can use those 😁
Very nice, I might give it a try, although I don't have a bandsaw so doing the initial cutting of the wood might be tricky. Also, just an FYI. The tapering that you were doing for the "blade" of the knife is known as distal taper. This is commonly done with swords in order to reduce the weight of the blade. And the groove you cut into the blade is called a fuller and is, once again, used to reduce weight in the blade.
please, wood filler, before your primer, you'll get such a more smooth finish, just look up guitar finishing and luthiery!!! guitars are as smooth as cars, mostly because of the prepwork of layered filling then sanding!!!
your videos were a MAJOR asset in getting our cosplay stuff together at the local comicon we had this past weekend! thanks for all your AWESOME videos!
Your Swiss Army knife story speaks to me. Mostly because I closed the bald across he palm of my hand and left a lovely gash there. Love your work and your story’s Bill. Keep up the amazing work and vids looking forward to all your future projects.
Dolko71 woah thats a good one, and although it might not be as influential to the movie but Deckerd’s blade runner blaster/pistol what ever you wannta call thing is one the biggest highlights of the movie and universe!!!
Awesome work, love your vids. Sanding sealer is more to help get a smother finish, not really get rid of wood grain. Also helps to prevent blochy staining. Water based will (raise the grain) getting a rough texture. Then sanding it back will help get a smoother finish and prevent raised grain again when using water based finishes
I have found that gluing a piece of shiny foil behind the gem will enhance the look with the light reflecting up thru the gem. Experiment with different colored foil for a different look.
Bill, just a quick FYI, the term you are looking for when you were talking about the taper that goes from the guard to the tip of the blade is called "distal taper"
Pivotal props: the one ring (maybe sting?), Maltese Falcon, the Arc of the Covenant/grail diary, Baymax, the Master sword (aka the sword that seals the darkness), the S&W model 29, the red pill, Excaliber. Sankara stones, the Animus
I like the idea of the sanding sealer. It seems obvious in hindsight, but It’s never occurred to me to use it. I’ll definitely try it next time. Do you think you needed to apply a second coat after sanding or was one coat enough? Thanks!
A bit of a necro, I know, but would it be worth scoring or scuffing the wood to enhance the gription between it and the epoxy clay? I've not used that type of clay, so I don't know how sticky it is.
The top from Inception Golden Scissors from Us Delorean from Back to the Future Red Slippers from Wizard of Oz This looks like the most detailed build you've done yet, great work!
Hey! As a note, if you're using that round cutting dremel bit on wood, make sure it is spinning ALONG the grain to reduce the jaggedness of corners! I noticed you did this in the video, but it's worth telling others, especially for a project that's going to get a smooth finish!
Super cool sword! I would say it depends on your needs. Do some research and talk to people at the hardware store to find out the strengths of each piece of equipment. If one sounds like something you could really use, then go with that one! I wouldn't seek one out until you find yourself needing one.
Hey Bill. Do you think that epoxy putty would be a good material to use for something like sculpting custom pop figures? Just an idea I thought about trying for a while, but wasn't sure what materials I should try.
If you're using it to build additions to the figures, absolutely. It's great for modifying and adding on. I don't know that I'd use it to sculpt an entire piece from scratch, mainly because of the working time. But if you're working in small batches you probably could!
The reference photo of the blade looks like ladder-pattern damascus to me. I don't know exactly how you'd replicate it, but knowing how might come in handy for other pattern damascus blades you might make.
For the sanding sealer you would need multiple coats. But after the first coat your filler primer is pretty much doing the same thing its just not clear which is important for most wood finishes.
thanks for the plans and inspiration!! - been in a bit of a rut lately but this seemed like a fun project to get me back into my workshop - i'm making my blade from aluminium - i haven't started the handle yet and was thinking of using milliput...will it work the same as the free form sculpt? - worried it wont be strong enough - that said i might make a mold with it and then do a cold cast for the handle
The pictures you used didnt show the blade pattern very well and the actual dagger was a ladder pattern Damascus blade. Very beautiful pattern. You may want to do a search and maybe repaint the blade. Fantastic work by the way!
@@punishedprops Bill, I recently realized that i ave some cash laying around and i could either purchase a bandsaw, beltsander, and set of hobby knives, or a 3d printer. Which should I chose?
yeah with sanding sealer you need to sand afterwards. look into getting Yorkshire Grit, it's an abrasive and sort of polish for wood, that's f you plan to do more work with wood
Good old Swiss Army Knives. I remember also around 11 ish using mine to remove a tire from my RC Car. All those different blades and tools and which did I use? Yup, the small razor sharp knife blade. Result blood everywhere and forty years later I still have a faint scar on my finger. lol
very cool tutorial as usual, Bill. And special "props" to you for the "Valyrian steel"... errrr... "wood" selection at the HW, sticker caught my eye instantly ! I love easter eggs :-)
Just wanted to say you can make custom gems for cosplay with translucent polymer clay and alcohol ink. Bake them and polish. They work pretty well for specific sizes, colors, etc
Check out the full tools & materials list plus some progress photos over at punishedprops.com/2019/05/20/catspaw-dagger/
not going against how you make props but wouldn't the wood grain be good in this case because it's a valyrian steel dagger which is technically a Damascus dagger?
@@Ithrial420 thass true although I think even with damascus blades (which I
You guys should do a back to basic episode where you make something without all the high-tech do-hickeys a minimalist build
KITT from Knight Rider. Airwolf from the series of the same name.
Bill!!! i request you craft the staff of ains ooal gown from anime Overlord!!
Haha we were so scared when you tried to flip the blade but your expression after was worth it 🤣 great build!!
EvanAndKatelyn you two should get him in touch with Alec to make a damascus version!
I was VERY careful. Thanks guys!
@@brendanrodgers504 yeah but traveling to Montana isn't as much fun as traveling to England
John Wick's Pencil
Influential prop? The One Ring, Lord of the Rings
Yep that's about as influential as it gets!
That's what came to my mind first too, the One Ring.
Oh this is the best one. Oh my precious. Damn that's so good. Damn it. Damn you!
I know that great minds think alike, but stop reading my mind!
My first thought too
Hi Bill (and everyone else reading)
With timber (wood), you can use oil and wet & dry paper (finer grades for finer finish) to get a really smooth finish. Tung Oil (for floors) is great. It usually dries in a gloss but that can also be sanded afterward to make it a matt finish. First coat will fill the grain. Keep applying coats to get desired thickness. Can even be polished or buffed with lambswool pad to get a super shiny finish.
Great info, thanks!
@@punishedprops Thanks Bill - That last post was done before I finished watching the video. Just a point to "the weird" bit on your handle after painting - It looked a bit like a thumb print. You might want to mention to everyone next time that the oil from your skin can stuff up a nice paint job. So - clean the surfaces before painting and/ or use gloves to handle things when painting. Otherwise - Great Job!!!
The doctor's sonic screwdriver (any reincarnation)
Sarin Draven not sure I would agree. It isn’t really important to the story, it’s just the Doctor’s signature tool. That’s what it was designed to be - just handy
Please make Arya's Needle from wood! Would be interesting to see how you would do the details of the decorative guard and pommel etc and also get the shape of the thin blade from wood...
That was my first thought, though not from wood specifically
The rat from endgame
The Lament Configuration box from Hellraiser is pretty much the entire plot device of all the movies.
First one that comes to mind is Anakin's/Luke's blue lightsaber. It played a big part in the original trilogy and is playing a bigger role in the new movies it seems.
Great example!
Wow, as much work as you put into that I'm kinda surprised you didn't cast a mold.
Looking great though.
mold it, mold it, mold it!
Sometimes I just want one prop and don't need to make copies, so I don't make a mold. If I wanted copies I could totally do that, but it's helpful to show how to finish a prop without making a mold or casting it.
How likely is the mold making process likely to have a negative effect on a completed original work of craftsmanship like this? Does it matter when you make a mold for mold quality?
It depends on how you make your mold. If you're doing a simple 2-part mold and don't need to cut it open and your prop is WELL sealed, then you could mold it just fine.
A good way I've found to get rid of wood grain is to first prime the peice, then give it just one or two coats of plastidip spray, the spray can stuff is fine and can be bought at any home improvement store ive found and then primed again and painted as usual
That's a great option if you aren't trying to get a gloss finish. PlastiDip has a bit of a surface texture that doesn't work as well for gloss paint jobs.
@@punishedprops gotcha! great to know!
Howdy again Bill and Britt!!! Just wanted to say as always I love what you guys are doing and it never gets old watching you guys build a great prop!
Two main uses of sanding sealer: one; 'fills' porous woods so they wont absorb too much stain, oil, paint etc, and two; raises the wood grain and hardens the surface for more effective sanding - as you figured out. Thanks for sharing your techniques - great result.
Other pivotal props:
* Captain Picard's Flute
* Captain Cisco's Baseball
* LaForge's Visor
* The Dark Crystal
* The One Ring
* The Holy Grail
* Heisenberg's Blue Meth
* Mr Freeze's Gun (Across Multiple Animated Series)
* Captain America's Shield
* Mjolnir
* Excalibur
* The Sword in the Stone
* Darksaber
I was going to mention a bunch of these and add in others
Flux Capacitor
Oscilation Overthruster
TARDIS
The Arc of the Covenant
The General Lee, from dukes of hazzard (could even add daisy dukes here too)
Magnum PI's ferrari
Horatio Caine's snuglasses (CSI Miami)
Henry Blakes Fishing Hat (MASH)
Yaaaaass a trekkieeee
The One Ring
The Wardrobe (if that can be counted as a prop)
The Ark
Sankara Stones
The Colt
Necronomicon
Kandarian Dagger
Freddy's glove
Scissor Blade
Leatherface's chainsaw
Philosopher's/Sorcerer's Stone
Elder Wand
Tom Riddle's Diary
The Sword of Gryffindor
Goblet of Fire
Triwizard Cup
Legit almost every horcrux
Narsil From lord of the rings, sting from Hobbit/ LOTRs movies!
To go along with The Colt. Angel Blades and The First Blade.
Great question... The Wardrobe Prop or Set ?
@@negotiableaffections That's my question. It certainly is a device that is crucial to the story in the Narnia series.
The soul reaver sword in the legacy of kain series. That was a major plot device. Plus I think it would be a good prop to do
True, I totally agree
This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful prop you've built to date.
Thank you so much!
Ah yes, Valyrian poplar... A fine choice indeed!
Seemed fitting 😂
Oh this makes me so happy. I’ve been making swords using this exact method that I figured out on my own for like 3 years 😁 same tools same materials and the same filler primer
Nice!
To your opening question of a pivotal prop in a story: I've always wondered if it might be possible to build the Glaive from Krull without having to resort to expensive 3D printing.
Expensive 3d printing? Its only as expensive as you let it be. Can get a good machine for less than $250 and material is pennies on the dollar vs most other prop making materials.
Darn you, Bill Smith... that was my first thought! HA
@@MattWeber I think you're missing my point. $250 is too much for a single prop. I don't make many props. I just want one good one.
@@billsmith4932 Well, if you did spend the $250 on the printer then you'd just have to make more props for yourself in order to justify the cost then. But I do get where you're coming from, $250 is a bit much to spend when all you want is just one prop. But honestly, if you can scrounge up the $250 you just have to make more props to help make up for the cost.
@@Riceball01 How does making more props make up for the cost? You mean I'd have to sell them too? Or do you mean I should collect what I don't want?
I love working with poplar, its a soft- hardwood that cuts and sands really nicely. Great dagger!
Thanks so much!
Influential prop (and from GoT as well): The Iron Throne.
Dude that's friggin gorgeous. It looked incredible before the dry brushing but that really brought out the details and aged it nicely. Killer work I'm super impressed
Thanks so much!
You seem super nice! Easy explaining, high quality work, great job.. You've got yourself a new follower! 👍🏼
Thanks so much, welcome aboard!
Nice build, very impressive. I use Alclad lacquers for modelling - they're such a great finish. Also, I don't know if anyone already mentioned it, but those metal cutting bits are called burrs.
Love Alclad! And yes, I think I did know that but sometimes words are hard :)
Just saw the bag of gems and thought...
MAKE AN INFINITY GAUNTLET!!!
I like the fine work on the blade, makes it look like a Damascus but up and down instead of long ways.
Yeah it's a super interesting pattern!
Holy Grail from Last Crusade maybe?
I'm using sanding-sealer for all my wood-props (so basically all my props), first layer to get it rough so I can sand it down, and then usually two more layers with only a little bit of sanding usually give me great results
Good to know!
Recreate the Kurikara... its a sword from Blue Exorcist which helped contain the inherited blue flames of satan...
my only question regarding the dagger, isnt the end of the hilt supposed to have dragons glass in it? also from experience working with models, gluing to paint will not last after time, i would have pinned the jems with wire. maybe a snipped paperclip would hold them in place better and longer. those jems may fall out after the paint gets older.
No, it's just a normal valyrian steel dagger, but the hilt is suspected to be made from dragon bone though noone has proof in canon
@@amazoniancosplay cool i was just wondering i think i heard that on another video i was watching.
The Bandit's 1977 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
I'd love to do a car build.
But wouldn't you do the one from Back to the Future?
oh wow perfect timing! I'm planning Arya as my next costume
Fantastic! Share what you make with us on Twitter: twitter.com/chinbeard
me too! I currently am working on needle.
The one ring from Lotr
Skywalker family lightsaber from Star Wars
The infinity stones from the MCU
Tony Stark's Arc reactor
That's what I thinking of for other provotal props
I feel like the lightsaber was just kind of a throwaway. :P
A friend of mine gifted us a bunch of brushes, some of those have a singular bristle... he used those to paint eyelashes in porcelain dolls, I have never find anything that merits that kind of precision so thanks to give me and idea what kind of project I can use those 😁
Wow that's awesome!
04:25 Yes better to get your distal taper and bevels established before you go to the quench.
Oh sorry this isn't Forged in Fire. :)
Its like watching the Joy of Painting all over again. Love it!
The highest of compliments!
From Switzerland, we deeply apologize for your finger. 😁🖖
Hah! Many thanks!
Very nice, I might give it a try, although I don't have a bandsaw so doing the initial cutting of the wood might be tricky.
Also, just an FYI. The tapering that you were doing for the "blade" of the knife is known as distal taper. This is commonly done with swords in order to reduce the weight of the blade. And the groove you cut into the blade is called a fuller and is, once again, used to reduce weight in the blade.
Great info! You can use a coping saw to cut out your pieces!
Stereo with the ability to go to 11 in This is Spinal Tap
Now this is one I HAVE to try! I'm going to print it out a bit smaller as my hands are smaller and I'll just be using hand tools.
Go for it!
please, wood filler, before your primer, you'll get such a more smooth finish, just look up guitar finishing and luthiery!!! guitars are as smooth as cars, mostly because of the prepwork of layered filling then sanding!!!
your videos were a MAJOR asset in getting our cosplay stuff together at the local comicon we had this past weekend! thanks for all your AWESOME videos!
Henry Cavill's mustache in Justice League
The finished product looks amazing!
KITT and the General Lee come to mind. Oh and the phone booth from Bill & Ted's Excellent Adventure l
The TARDIS from Doctor Who, the Colt from Supernatural, the Holy Grail from Arthurian Legend, Thor’s Hammer... the list goes on and on.
Your Swiss Army knife story speaks to me. Mostly because I closed the bald across he palm of my hand and left a lovely gash there. Love your work and your story’s Bill. Keep up the amazing work and vids looking forward to all your future projects.
Thank you so much!
The whip from the Indiana Jones movie series. Would definetly not be the same without that. It would also be a fun project. A working whip.
Dolko71 woah thats a good one, and although it might not be as influential to the movie but Deckerd’s blade runner blaster/pistol what ever you wannta call thing is one the biggest highlights of the movie and universe!!!
I agree! :) ua-cam.com/video/C6Rn75N8Ss4/v-deo.html
Definitely the Elder wand from Harry Potter! Also I love you guys and your work, a true inspiration
Great example!
Awesome work, love your vids. Sanding sealer is more to help get a smother finish, not really get rid of wood grain. Also helps to prevent blochy staining. Water based will (raise the grain) getting a rough texture. Then sanding it back will help get a smoother finish and prevent raised grain again when using water based finishes
Great info, thanks!
Your custom "Valyrian Poplar" sticker (0:17) is a nice touch
I have found that gluing a piece of shiny foil behind the gem will enhance the look with the light reflecting up thru the gem. Experiment with different colored foil for a different look.
Yes! I've used that trick in the past as well!
Bill, just a quick FYI, the term you are looking for when you were talking about the taper that goes from the guard to the tip of the blade is called "distal taper"
The handkerchief from Shakespeare's Othello
Oh that's a unique one
Pivotal props: the one ring (maybe sting?), Maltese Falcon, the Arc of the Covenant/grail diary, Baymax, the Master sword (aka the sword that seals the darkness), the S&W model 29, the red pill, Excaliber. Sankara stones, the Animus
I love how the wood grindings fly up and away into the off-screen vacuum during close-up shots 🤣 Looks very magical!
The magic of making!
Do you think a Captain America’s shield build would be possible in the future?
I like the idea of the sanding sealer. It seems obvious in hindsight, but It’s never occurred to me to use it. I’ll definitely try it next time. Do you think you needed to apply a second coat after sanding or was one coat enough?
Thanks!
From what I've learned according to those who have used it before, it's good to do a couple coats
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
Really cool to see you work with materials you don't usually use!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
A bit of a necro, I know, but would it be worth scoring or scuffing the wood to enhance the gription between it and the epoxy clay? I've not used that type of clay, so I don't know how sticky it is.
This is great!! I LOVE seeing hands on work for props
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it!
@@punishedprops I really did... and it gave me so insight to what airbrush paints to get for my first ever prop :D
I think the props on the Wright flyer were pretty influential.
I have a gazelle antler and the handle for this dagger looks exactly like it!
Right on! I think that's definitely what the design is inspired by
I am however super pumped by this, very inspiring. I wanna do it!!
Go for it!
The top from Inception
Golden Scissors from Us
Delorean from Back to the Future
Red Slippers from Wizard of Oz
This looks like the most detailed build you've done yet, great work!
All great props!
Hey! As a note, if you're using that round cutting dremel bit on wood, make sure it is spinning ALONG the grain to reduce the jaggedness of corners! I noticed you did this in the video, but it's worth telling others, especially for a project that's going to get a smooth finish!
One comes to mind from my favorite medieval movie is EXCALIBUR! OH! And Conan sword from Conan the Barbarian with Arnold.
The Atlantean is cool, but nowhere near as pivotal as Excalibur (at least in the movies)
Should you get the scroll saw first or band saw?
Influential prop: Guts dragonslayer sword from Berserk
Super cool sword! I would say it depends on your needs. Do some research and talk to people at the hardware store to find out the strengths of each piece of equipment. If one sounds like something you could really use, then go with that one! I wouldn't seek one out until you find yourself needing one.
Hey Bill. Do you think that epoxy putty would be a good material to use for something like sculpting custom pop figures? Just an idea I thought about trying for a while, but wasn't sure what materials I should try.
If you're using it to build additions to the figures, absolutely. It's great for modifying and adding on. I don't know that I'd use it to sculpt an entire piece from scratch, mainly because of the working time. But if you're working in small batches you probably could!
@@punishedprops Thanks for the input. I'll give it a try. I always love watching and learning from your videos.
FYI, bueaty supply shops have your popsicle stick/sand paper trick already made, in every grit you need
The reference photo of the blade looks like ladder-pattern damascus to me. I don't know exactly how you'd replicate it, but knowing how might come in handy for other pattern damascus blades you might make.
For the sanding sealer you would need multiple coats. But after the first coat your filler primer is pretty much doing the same thing its just not clear which is important for most wood finishes.
Please do a video on how to clean airbrushes after using certain paints like lacquers
Oh yeah that can be tricky.
i love the valyrian steel's effect that you managed to give to the blade. wow :) your attention to details always amaze me
Thank you so much!
Thank you Bill! I'm working on an Arya cosplay for Dragon con and this was perfect timing.
Fantastic! Best of luck, Share what you make with us on Twitter: twitter.com/chinbeard
your work is great.. watched your vacuum forming video , i used yours as a pattern for my first.. thanks
Love spazstix mirror chrome, I actually used it to finish the mouth plate on the power ranger helmet in my profile pic
Nice!
thanks for the plans and inspiration!! - been in a bit of a rut lately but this seemed like a fun project to get me back into my workshop - i'm making my blade from aluminium - i haven't started the handle yet and was thinking of using milliput...will it work the same as the free form sculpt? - worried it wont be strong enough - that said i might make a mold with it and then do a cold cast for the handle
What an awesome piece 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩👏👏👏👏
The pictures you used didnt show the blade pattern very well and the actual dagger was a ladder pattern Damascus blade. Very beautiful pattern. You may want to do a search and maybe repaint the blade. Fantastic work by the way!
Thanks for the free pattern! I want to start making foam props, this seems like a great place to start
Awesome and super clean work as always.....Hats off to you good sir. And learned a few new tricks, so thank you!
That's wonderful to hear!
hey bill, i am a terrible epoxy sculptor, but a fairly decent sander. could i glue more wood to the handels and sand that
Absolutely!
@@punishedprops Bill, I recently realized that i ave some cash laying around and i could either purchase a bandsaw, beltsander, and set of hobby knives, or a 3d printer. Which should I chose?
Bill gave me a preview of this at Maker Faire yesterday! Amazing prop. Talented and lovely guy.
Thank you so much!!
Any time mate. Was really nice to meet you in person. And the dagger turned out awesome!
Bill: I closed the blade on my finger, Dad!...
Dad: Well, he won't be working with tools.
Bill: ... Hold my Kool-Aid.
Oh my, free blueprints. I probably won't ise them, but it's really neat
Haha that end is awesome. Love this build and seeing a wide variety of craft materials.
That's great to hear, thanks so much!
Minwax sanding sealer is the best to use. first coat use 220 second coat use 4 xxxx steel wool
The Lament Configuration (The Box) from the Hellraiser films.
Oh yeah!
Great meeting you at maker Faire!!
I enjoyed this video more than the finale 😂
yeah with sanding sealer you need to sand afterwards. look into getting Yorkshire Grit, it's an abrasive and sort of polish for wood, that's f you plan to do more work with wood
REALLY well done! Keep being awesome.
Thank you so much!
The Night King Slayer
Good old Swiss Army Knives. I remember also around 11 ish using mine to remove a tire from my RC Car. All those different blades and tools and which did I use? Yup, the small razor sharp knife blade. Result blood everywhere and forty years later I still have a faint scar on my finger. lol
Ain't that just the way
very cool tutorial as usual, Bill. And special "props" to you for the "Valyrian steel"... errrr... "wood" selection at the HW, sticker caught my eye instantly ! I love easter eggs :-)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just wanted to say you can make custom gems for cosplay with translucent polymer clay and alcohol ink. Bake them and polish. They work pretty well for specific sizes, colors, etc
Oh neat idea!
Could you show how to make a quidditch ball set from harry potter or just a tutorial of a quaffle cause those are impossible to find?
you can get a quaffle from the harry potter studio tour
I know but they are kinda expensive and I already made the whole quidditch costume myself so I'd like to make the quaffle myself too