This WILL make your climbing sessions better!
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2024
- Everyone has heard that the mind is stronger than the body and that is absolutely true. As climbers, we often let it get the better of us too. Making us feel down, unworthy, that we are getting worse, comparing to others, frustration etc.
This can ruin your session and those that you're climbing with.
This session shares the tips and tricks of professional climber and coach Alex Puccio. Alex won 2 world cups, but came 2nd and 3rd more times than she can remember. This was all down to her mind, anxiousness, worrying and thinking about things out of her control.
She has learned to control her mind now and is sharing that knowledge with you.
As always, a huge thank you to @movementgyms Dallas for hosting us (Hill location).
Key Moments:
Intro 00:39
Your warm-up: 01:48
Anti-style climbs: 03:37
Removing Ego: 08:08
Open Mindset: 10:30
Avoidance mechanisms: 16:00
How to deal with failure: 19:16
60:40 Rule: 23:10
Fluent in the language of climbing: 24:50
Your homework: 26:00
Outro: 27:12
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What helped me so far is more exploration and less judgement. I also call it "embrace the cringe" so to say. If something feels weird, scary, or otherwise stumps me, there is probably something interesting to learn. Rather than thinking about my self-worth at that point, I want to focus on "what is it, then?" I do not try to think "this is great" or "I love to do this" all the time. I can always judge afterwards if I liked it, but don't need to do so before. I just need to be open to the experience to have fun and to have success. I also have this rule that when I see myself walk away from a climb because I have a negative attitude towards it, I force myself to try it multiple times. Over time I have learned that not allowing yourself to avoid stuff that you have a negative first impression of makes you find a lot of joyfull things you would totally miss otherwise.
Correct, try hard, and you learn something from the many failings. You learn not much from the climbs you did well.
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Exactly that! Open mindset, willing to learn from mistakes and being non-judgement. Analytical instead! Great job! 👏
Exactly that!!! 👏
It is so refreshing to hear a professional climber is scared of falling! I have been climbing for almost a year, and I often feel embarrassed by my fear of falling and hurting myself. I see many climbers (especially men) who act like they are not scared of anything and make hazardous moves. While I am blocked by my fear more than by my technique!
Yes, it is very normal for fear to creep in. I know a lot of men that are scared and fearful of larger/higher moves too. Same principle applies however, that they progressively make attempts, learning to fall and learning that you can control the dangers allowing you to focus on the move in the end. The timeframe for that to happen is very subjective and you have to be in control as long as you are making progressive steps! Good luck and thanks for watching!
I too am 6’2”. I really appreciate the bit in regards to bunched up climbs for tall people. That stuff can really mess with your head.
For sure! If it’s a repetitively small set, then it can get really demoralizing. But it’s important to just disassociate your self worth. Try to work around it. Don’t give up too easily. If you’re working it, then you’ll be trying hard, making gains and learning!
Just have to have some positive sends for the mind too
Yep. Setters in our gym seem to be relatively short so they are naturally biased when creating climbs. I climb for my physical wellbeing and if I am achieving that then I am accomplishing what I need to.
I often think by myself "Just change your POV, change your angle" ... often from the ground a route looks different than while actually climbing it. And I also try to consciously remind myself at moments when I thought before "You never gonne climb this route" and then later I got it done. Yes there are routes in my gym which are over my pay rate but that's because I still have to develop some strengths and abilities.
So staying open minded is very important ... at the end it's just climbing and not a matter of life and death ;-)
Absolutely!!! Great outlook. Many start to build this ego as they progress through the grades. Have expectations and think they should be able to climb any v10 (for example). But always remembering that latter point is key!
This episode is an absolutely gold! So many great info and thought processes. 🎉🎉
But I like the video cover the most 😂.
Haha! Thanks Changyue, we appreciate it and you! ❤️
Once again, an excellent training session! Thank you Alex and Robin! There are a number of grate climbers out there who offer also brilliant online training sessions but, for me, you are the absolute best. It is, I think, the way you explain things, the phrases you use. Clearly you are both not just absolutely "fluent the language of climbing" but also magnificently "fluent" in the language of explaining climbing. Please, do keep the excellent work up!!! ;-)
Wow, thank you so much for the high praise! We appreciate it and will strive to continue to produce content that maintains this.
Always a toss up of time. Getting the information across is hard if shorter!?
Anyway, thank you so much for your support!
Great video!!! I love psychology of climbing vids. My issue isn't really ego - as an older climber, it's more genuine fear of injury as I have fallen and injured myself and also have an unstable knee due to surgery. So this holds back my progress unfortunately
Yep, well I can relate to that! Two ACLs (meniscus, pcl etc) surgeries, a spinal fusion and a fair few other “minor” injuries, I’m certainly fearful.
But I’m also very stubborn, so I try to get good spots, power spots, make progressive moves and learn the process as well as the risks. In my own time and in relative safety.
Love this episode! Seems basic what you’re talking about, but it’s such an essential part of climbing. Climbing is as much mental as it is physical.
Absolutely. Really basic in essence, but so basic we all forget it. If you watch the average climber in the gym, you'll see them walk away after one failed attempt, or be hyper-aware of people watching. They avoid certain areas of the gym etc, so it is a lesson for us all to remember. Thanks for watching and your thoughts, we appreciate it!
Great video again! I loved the language analogy especially, I’ve always enjoyed “unlocking” a position or movement that felt impossible and I think the language analogy is a great way to express that. I’m still early in my climbing journey, so I’ve got many words and phrases to learn!
Thank you! Yes, it’s exactly that-unlocking or learning a new movement, or word ;)
Great content! Saved!
Funnily enough, I see many similarities between climbing and Brazilian jiu-jitsu, after this video. Movement as a language, "you win (flash a project) or you learn", ego at the door... and propensity for knee injuries.
Absolutely! Freedom of movement, being adaptable and learning to listen to your body and “feel” the situation. We are big BJJ fans! Robin did Judo, JJ and some stand up stuff for 15 years before climbing
Louis Parkinson is like a master in coaching positive thinking. If you turn even the smallest progression into a win that totally changes the game. Maybe you don’t send it but you just manage to touch the next hold or reach a bit further, whatever it is, show gratitude for yourself and what you’ve learned and accomplished is extremely motivating.
Absolutely, an incredibly positive man and absolutely right. 1cm progression towards a hold on your project is exactly that - progression!! You have to acknowledge weaknesses, but absolutely reward yourself for your accomplishments as well.
Love this. Nice vid. Alex, your advice about the mental side of climbing was really helpful and so good to hear. Just what I needed at the right time.
Awesome, glad you do! Thanks for watching ❤️
Terrific content and great tips. Thanks ROAP. SO nice to hear from Robin about small boxes and acknowledging that it is a thing we have to work on. And the 60/40 rule, makes such good sense, but as the video stated, our ego/pride wants us to focus on what we are good at for 80 instead. Thanks for the great video!
For sure! It’s a tough lesson, but we all go through it. At the end of the day, the number/grade, nor even topping, doesn’t really matter. Just overall progression.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching! 😊
Wow, thanks for this! There are so many videos on strength and beginner technique, but what you explain here is rare. Super helpful. I've noticed myself how important mindset is, I worked on my fear on falling and as a shorter climber often get frustrated with grades and "lanky" setting. It's annoying when I'm sure I know the intended beta and that I'm strong enough, but just lack the reach. And then seeing average height guys just flash it without hardly any technique 😆Oftentimes then I just walked away from the climb without trying to find an alternative beta.
And thanks for being so open about your own weaknesses. Excited to see the video on tactics!
Thank you for watching an sharing your story too. It can certainly be frustrating, but that is our ego talking. If you accept the scenario for what it is, i.e. it is set in a "lanky" style, then you can just try and problem solve - trying not to get emotional about it. It is what it is and working it/trying hard will be the key to improving. Thanks for your support!
Very deep and thoughtful episode. I was hoping you'd solve the white boulder, because I have a very similar project at my gym. 4 slopers and the 4th one seems miles from the other 3. Will rewatch/grasp this episode and see if I can crush my sloper project...Mahalos🤙🏽
Yeah, a different type of video this week. A lot more talking, but it is a sort of “therapy session”.
Well, we hope this helps with your project too! Thanks for watching
This was like therapy session for me. I guess we all have up days and down days.
Haha, thanks!! Absolutely! I’m sure Janja would say the same! Thanks for watching 🙏
Should've watched this before my session, lol. Luckily the gym had to close early, no time for frustration to build up.
Haha, we’ve been there before!! Next time ;)
Brilliant video! And it is good for us average height peeps to learn that it is only a tall person's world 99% of the time. ; )
Hahaha!!! Thanks for watching!
If I find a route that just one or two moves I cannot do, I find adding a discount grip really helps. Hopefully this discount grip can be removed later.
Absolutely. Allows you to actually climb far more problems in your gym. Video coming on projecting tactics soon and this features. Great point.
Alex, how do your legs not get banged up / scarred climbing on the textured walls etc without pants? Am I doing something wrong for the last 15 years, my shins get destroyed without pants.
Hahahaha! I’ve definitely been there, but perhaps the lack of sketchy slabs around here. Plus I try to be really precise so it doesn’t happen. Not saying you don’t, but really I think it’s down to the lack of sketchy slabs! 😂
@@roapcoaching917 Sketchy coordination slabs with cheeta volumes
I know I don’t see all these videos but that’s the first time I’ve heard Alex use her “married” name…cool 👍
Does she? lol
The tiny boxes and cramped positions. I feel like many gym climbs punish lankiness, yet there’s a popular narrative that lank is always an unfair advantage. It can be, sometimes. It can also be a liability. Makes me feel like I don’t earn my sends. Thanks.
For sure! I think there was a nature to set “lanky” specifically in the past. Whereas now it seems more common that the other narrative is true. Yeah, a soft climb as you used your height effectively, but that rhetoric doesn’t change for shorter climbers as a whole. I’m always aware of climbs being easier or harder for height. Just being honest is key.
I'm not convinced of the merits of tall climbers spending time on those problems that make us super scrunched. Often as not, they put your lower back and knees into compromised positions, and they seem more like invitations for injury rather than useful learning experiences. Robin is an superb climber, but his lower back is not in a good position on that red problem! At gyms where shorter route setters are setting problems that they want kids to be able to do, I think us tall climbers should feel free to just walk away from some problems. That doesn't mean avoiding addressing our weaknesses, but there are ways of improving strength and flexibility that don't involve climbing into a box designed for kids that might blow your lower back out!
Absolutely agree in certain circumstances. Obviously walking away from every problem that creates challenge due to height is not going to be productive. There are many climbs on rock that force similar, “compromised” positions, so Robin thinks of it as training for that. Every board has problems set by smaller climbers too. As a smaller climber, I am also forced to work around heightist climbs, but sometimes there are no options around a move too far. This can be the case for you and Robin etc, but often there are options too. Sometimes it creates innovative thinking!
@@roapcoaching917 I should have been more specific. It's really the position of being in approx a 3/4 squat with the forces both twisting and pushing the lumbar into flexion that seems to be super risky. I hurt my back three times doing that climbing, then I finally got told by a physio that it's that specific position that is so risky. I don't have anywhere near your experience outdoors of course, but my impression is that I almost never see anyone forced into that position outdoors. There are always workarounds. Whereas for taller climbers indoors, it's not uncommon to be forced into that position indoors, as Robin was on the red problem. So while I'm happy to live with most of the compromised positions we get into, say drop knees or shoulder joints at end range of motion, that particular one is just too risky.
For sure! Uncomfortable as well as risky. Can hurt shoulders as well.
@@roapcoaching917 Heightist climbs? I love that phrase 😄
I totally agree, if I feel like the risk of injury is too high, I stop. After all, we just climb for fun and exercise. It's not worth the risk.
love your vids but they are really slow going and way too long (just my opinion though)
Thanks for the feedback. This one is for sure very vocal, with less action. But will note the length!
@@roapcoaching917 I don't see it that way at all, I thought it was just right.
I totally disagree. I really like these thoughtful and analytical videos