UPDATE (May 2024): The proper torque for our wheels is 140 ft. lbs., not 120, as I stated in the video. We have 17.5" aluminum wheels with 9/16" studs (with coned lug nuts). Be sure to research the proper torque for your particular setup. UPDATE (May 2024): It is VERY IMPORTANT to use blue Loctite on the brake caliper mounting bolts, or they can potentially back out. We know because ours backed out, and the caliper came loose, locking up our wheel.
Great video Chad, just a couple of suggestions having been a mechanic for 50+ years. You might want to put another piece of cardboard under the hub after you pull the wheels off. Dropping a freshly greased bearing in the dirt is very disappointing as you'll have to clean and re-grease again. Also rotate the hub when you are tightening the axle nut to seat the bearings. Keep up the good work!
If one pad wears faster than the other the caliper isn't sliding on the slide pins. They need grease, too! - Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
I know some people hate this but here's a short terminology lesson. The tapered roller bearing is made up of a cup (outer race) and an assembled cone (inner race, rollers and a cage). So, not a race and a bearing, but a cup and an assembled cone. Sorry to anyone that thinks I'm being picky but I think we should promote good practice.
Being the one who produces instructional videos for work, I really felt that "filming projects makes them take three times as long." I'd like it twice if I could! 😆
Hey Chad: Great video! I also wanted to comment on the greasing of the bearings. You did a great job, but take it from a bearing industry professional for over 44 years- you don't need to put any grease inside the middle of the hub- it's no way going to migrate back into the bearings, so you're just adding heat buildup and wasting grease. The only things that need the grease are the bearings and very little on the grease seal. Two things about this: 1) grease acts like an insulator and too much will actually elevate your hub temperatures and degrade your braking, and 2) And just one more fact about snuggling up the tension nut when re-assembling: you should be turning the hub by hand while snugging the nut to "set" the grease, and you may want to allow for maybe 1/3 or 1/2 turn back-off to allow for bearing clearance due to heat depending on how it feels. You did point out rocking the hub laterally to see if it's too lose which is highly advisable. I will also tell you that in my opinion, Chicago Rawhide (CR) Seals from SKF are the best seal to run, as they have the patented "wave seal" design that wipes the shat diameter back and forth during rotation the seal contact surface away from the seal's contact point. I mention single lip because most people thick a double lip seal is better, when in fact if dirt gets in between the double lips, it will actually grind down the shaft finish, and I know you've seen grooves like that before.
Seanbhaney is correct, an added note if you put to much in the center section it can heat up when moving and actually vacuum out the grease from the bearings. But great video.
It is worth a mention that when you get grease on the brake disk or inside of the drum clean it very well with brake cleaner. For some of us just looking at grease will cause it to be places we don't want.
Great video as always Chad. Just maintenanced our IS as yours and found the inner races on both inside and outside bearings had some brown discoloring. Sent pics to Morryde and they said as long as the color was brown and not blue, just scotch brite them clean and pack and place them back in the hub per manual. Scotch brite cleaned them to new and reinstalled.
I like to get all my customers replacement trailer bearing and seals from Napa Auto parts. I take the end tabs from the boxes put in a ziplock bag and tell them to keep them in the trailer so if they have a brake down they can take that to any Napa in the country and they have the part numbers.
Chad; We bought a NEW camper a short time ago, I checked the first hub and found almost NO grease! On the other 3 hubs I used the Dexter easy lube and it worked GREAT. HAPPY CAMPING
Great video Chad. I’m sure your helping a lot of people save money. This really is easy, a bit time consuming, and definately dirty. But doable for the average guy.
I've greased many a wheel bearing and one thing I can say is that any grease not in the bearings themselves is wasted grease and can add to the temperature of the hub assembly. The dexter system completely fills the cavity with grease that never sees the inners of the bearing, it just spins around and around. Thoroughly packing the bearing like you've shown here is very necessary but adding grease to the inside void is not. And, after the bearing is laid in both front and back, it's a good idea to compress a little bead of grease between the inner seal and the outer washer so as to provide a solid layer of grease (that the rolling grease) can ride against and remain in the bearing. My thoughts after hundreds of bearing maintenance cycles and not a single bearing loss. Thank you as usual for your wonderful, insightful videos. We'll see you out there somewhere. Todd in NH.
Thanks Chad. I put my disc brakes on myself and did oil bath instead of grease. Love them. Going to Morryde in August for my IS. Best uprade ever. All my upgrads are because of you.
Couple of quick items. Once you tighten the axle nut to snug, you should spin the hub, then loosen the nut that 1 flat. Second, why did you open the bleed screw to push the caliper piston back in? Typically you just push the piston in which in turn push’s the fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir. by opening the bleeder you take a chance in creating an air pocket in the caliper/brake system. Also you by opening that bleeder screw you will also need to top of the brake fluid.
Yeah, I was going to ask if that had been done after opening the bleeder valve. Also, I guess you can simply loosen the cap on the brake reservoir to allow the fluid to be pushed back into it. Thoughts?
I have been a full time Boon-Docker for over 42 years and have always done ALL my own repairs and maintenance on our RV. Now days you can't trust anyone and especially Camping World, La Masa RV, Aloha RV ETC. There about all the same. The more you can learn how to work on your RV the better.Talk to people and ask questions. Always do a Per Trip before you go anywhere.Walk around your RV and LOOK at EVERYTHING! You will be surprised at what you can find ahead of time and save you a lot of money and downtime.Take your time. be patient and even you can do it. Keep up the great work and stay safe out there.🙏🏻👍
Great video...two issues being a mechanic...when u use the washer trick to get your seal off..hammering the front part of the bearing you contact the cage assembly against the washer potentially damaging it... second outer pad wear usually means that the floating pin could be frozen and you never checked them prior to putting the caliper and bolts back on....
Thanks Chad! Love your maintenance videos of such important tasks such as this. They really break down the barriers of fear to take care of these needs so that I know things are truly taken care of. Being prepared to complete this is so important. Love tinkering with my vehicles.
Great maintenance education video about a subject that many people never think about. I grew up in the 60s learning brake (drum) & bearings maintenance from my Dad this video was a mirror image of what I learned with one exception. I learned how to hand pack bearings (he never trusted the bearing cone). In the 70s I worked in a service garage and when those mechanics found out I knew how to pack bearings I was their “man Friday”. One last comment is by doing this you understand the importance of maintaining the wheel assembly. Thanks again Chad
As usual, your how to video's are well put together. If and when we do get a trailer, I'll remember your video and keep up with my maintenance as you do.
We have the IS, and I just used the EZ Lub for the bearings. No worries about excess pressure, as I only have manual grease guns. And oh yeah, there's a *lot* of work getting the IS and the bearings greased! On the first wheel, doing the IS, I started to think I was doing something wrong, as I'd squeezed that handle so many times, and wasn't seeing any grease coming out. Then I finally saw the old stuff oozing out, then the new. I forget how much grease they each took, but I had to go buy more, as I'd underestimated how much I'd need. The bearings didn't take nearly so much, and by then I was more confident. At this point, I think maybe I'll get a cordless grease gun to go with my other cordless tools. But maybe I should just do the work, help build up those arms! We had a problem with the IS, where (probably scraped along the bottom somehow) one shock had the bottom part sheared off, came out of the bracket at the bottom. We ended up losing one brake line, and the pads on that one. That was not fun to fix, though Morryde was quite helpful, and a mobile tech did the hard parts. Next time we're in the north IN area, we plan to get Morryde to give the whole system a thorough going-over, including alignment, as we think one wheel out of six is slightly out. And maybe we'll have them re-grease everything while they're at it. The first time I took the wheels off our rig, I found that on one side, they were *way* over-torqued. As you say, the damage is done when that happens. I wonder if I should see about having the lugs removed and replaced. Apparently, when the RV manufacturer put it together, whoever worked on that side just went with the air impact, "more is better" approach. I've found that on cars, too, where a tire shop went nuts on the torque. I've actually removed all the wheels from a car, carried them to a tire shop, and had new tires put on and balanced. I didn't care about saving whatever minor cost of having them put on the car, I just didn't want them torqued to 300.
Good Job! Don't know your brake system well. But I change pads on other items (motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc') all the time and when I do, I use a pry bar to open up distance between old pad (trash) & then install new ones. Saves all that time with the bleeding procedure you mention. But I could be wrong with your system? Also it's a good time to pump the brakes several times to get hydraulics pumped back up so when you need to brake it's good to go.
Always love your maintenance/mod videos. I also have the MorRyde IS suspension and disc brake mod on my GD Reflection 5th wheel. It wasn't clear in the video if you actually drained some brake fluid out of the caliper when compressing the piston with the C clamp and loosening the bleed fittings and/or if you had to refill the reservoir. I've changed many disc brakes and always just slowly compressed the caliper piston as you did after first loosening the brake reservoir cap for venting. Usually never had to add fluid after the maintenance.
Been watching your channel for two years and don't even have an RV but had boats on trailers and those too large to for trailers. Many similar issues are common to both. Your DIY is informative and to have a to have an amazing supportive wife involved is a perfect combo.
Chad, should you have been rotating that hub when you were tightening it down. That was the method I was taught to use on car hubs back in the day but things may have changed since then. Keep the good stuff coming.
I have just started doing my own brakes and bearings due to RV service people causing me to buy a new axiel. At this time that is the easiest job I forgot how to do. Putting 600 miles on my axel this weekend thus far no heat on the bearing area.
We have taken our I.S. to MoRryde in Indiana August of 2022 and then New Horizon in Kansas September of 2023 both times the alignment and maintenance were done. New Horizon was cheaper and they did rotate the tires on the three axle’s. Both times it was done in a day. MorRyde did feed us lunch. I’m a lot older than you and don’t have the tools to do the maintenance.
i have never seen a grease application that begged so much for an electric grease gun 🤣 but i do hope those greasy hand prints got cleaned off the rotors before calipers went back on. couldn't tell if i missed it or not, and that's an application where 100% brake function is needed
Very good video. Very thoroughly explained. I have grown up doing my own maintenance, retired 45 year aircraft mechanic. By doing as much of your own maintenance, as you said, you save a lot of money. You can be more assured as to quality of work done and the more you do, the more you learn. The old adage, knowledge is power, is never more true than when you do have to revert to having something done. You can talk to the mechanic or shop and, trust me, you will be treated differently than if you know nothing of what is being accomplished. Plus, by talking to other maintenance techs you can learn and they will explain helpful tips and / or tricks. Great video Chad. By doing your own work you also have the luxury of timetable to accomplish. Do it all in one time or spread it out over a day or two. You explained this task about as thorough and complete as could be done. 👍👍
Depending on size of your bearings, you can pack 2 bearings at a time. Pu the inner (large) bearing in the tool first then the outer (smaller) one will fit partially inside the larger one. Put cap on tool and pump grease into both bearings. The trick with the Dexter EZLube is to spin the wheel while injecting grease. Also go slow. Those battery powered grease guns can inject lots of grease fast.
That’s a neat trick on removing seals- I will remember that. I’m also not a fan of the EZ lube…seems like you would use much more grease than the conventional method
Great and helpful as usual. I did not see you check and lube the metal sleeve where it contacts the rubber bushing. Not the quide pins btw. My pads were wearing on the outside pad faster so upon inspection, I could not move caliper at all when retracting the pads. It should be able to float after tightening down the guide pins. It needs to be able to move slightly on the metal sleeve and rubber bushing. After taking out the 2 bolts holding the caliper, pull out the metal sleeve from rubber boot. Should remove easily, mine was stuck. I cleaned polished and lubed the outside of the metal sleeve with brake caliper grease, and a little of the grease on the opening of the rubber. Slid in nicely and now my calipers can float. Wish I could post a break down on comment to make clearer.
Hi Chad. Great "how I did it video". Given that you have the screw on clear dust caps, have you considered switching to oil bath bearing lube? Conversion requires a different rear seal but it's very simple and you can forget about packing bearings every 12 Mos or 12K miles..
I use the easy lube between full maintenance. Half way through the year, I will pull the tire and put a few pumps in for the back bearing and shoot some extra grease into the front.
Thanks for the great video Chad! I was wondering if you could add to your blog post on the website what to do if there is in fact damage on the spindle, or any of the other surfaces you mentioned.
You can run them hubs wet. Meaning, you remove the rubber plug in the middle of the cap and fill it halfway up with gear oil. You never have to pull the bearings again as long as it stays full of clean oil. I run wet hubs on my gooseneck Dexter 12k axles.
I should add, you do run a preload on the hub bearings when running wet hubs to maintain seal integrity. About one flat turn on the nut is all it takes for re-used bearings.
Thanks for the video, quite informative. I have independent suspension on my fifth wheel (different manufacturer). Did you replace your lug nuts with something that does not have a cap on them? If so, can you share what you bought?
Why didn’t you grease the caliber slide bolts? Does the bearing grease cup waste more grease than repacking by hand? I’m old and do it the old way. Which means wash and dry the bearings and repack by hand. I have the dexter axles on my trailer and I think the bearing greaser is for just to put a little fresh grease in. I plan on doing what you did this year. Another thing I did was to change all my tin covered lug nuts to solid lug nut. Stripped the cover on one when I bought new tires. Told the guy change all the lugs cause I don’t want to have a flat and have that happen to me. And it will happen in the pouring rain in the middle of nowhere. Like the how to videos you put out ,keep’em coming and smooth wide roads to you guys.
The nice thing about the independent suspension is the single wheel can drop, and nothing happens. I let it all the way down when I grease that torsion bracket.
Gooood overview on the maintenance requirements of the Morryde IS!!! So simple that a guy thats almost as dumb as a box of frozen shrimp can understand😂 FYI, we have the Morryde IS on our coach we bought almost 2 years ago and wish you had made this video 2 years ago!!! I found the owners manual somewhat ambiguous and confusing on the nomenclature of the components. I ended up calling Morryde about 12 times or so and picking their brains for the right way to perform the maintenance as you did. Durring each one of these calls, I recommended Morryde make a video on the operation, maintenance, and function/description of the IS. I searched ALL over YT for a video like this one you just made/released and it did not exist. Well, guess what??? The squeaky wheel got the grease, Morryde just released a very good video on their YT channel on this!!! Be sure to watch it and give them a like and subscribe as well. Recommend you advertise that on your blog, so all hands are aware of this…its very insightful and helpful as to how the IS functions.
Well done. Easy to understand. I've been dealing with trailers (boat, RV, enclosed etc) for 40 plus years, the only thing I can add is a trick my Dad taught me a long time ago for the seal and even bearing race install when required. Putting the seals and the races in the shop freezer for a couple of hours before hand will make them shrink a bit and slide in easier for ya. Note I said shop freezer, which means shop fridge. Gotta have one of those too...
Axle maintenance is so super important! Thank goodness we have a TPMS for our motor motorhome and our single axle enclosed motorcycle trailer. One of our seals failed, and I only knew of the problem because of the temperature reading. Now we know to repack the bearings every 5000 miles and replace the brake shoes every 10,000 miles. Thanks again for all of the past helpful videos! Brendan & Lena
Great video and was just what I needed to understand the process. Question, I followed along with the packing of the bearings and adding grease to the races but how do you know you put enough grease in the races? Is there a concern with adding too much grease? How do you know you have enough. Thanks as always
I don't think there is a concern with too much grease. Particularly considering that the EZ-Lube completely fills the hub. I think too much is better than not enough.. 👍🏼
Hi Chad I was searching in your videos for your comments on the current issues affecting GDRV an others in frame failures .. even if you don’t experience any of that it will be interesting to know your opinion . Big channels like yours will push this companies to produce better products .. beside the scary issues of fifth wheel frames that we currently see the overall quality of RVs is very poor and it is not going to change if we don’t mention it … other than that I like your videos
Thank you for asking for our take on this issue. We're honored that you value our opinion on this topic enough to ask us. We also understand how scary it can be to read some of the hype online. While we have not had any frame issues, we have published a blog post summarizing what we've seen and read online as well as our own thoughts that will hopefully help you better understand this frame failure issue. Please see: changinglanesrv.com/rv-frame-flex-our-opinion/
I have enjoyed keeping up with your travels over the past 2 years. Something you touched on that I thought about several times is how much extra effort it takes to film your repairs and share them with us. I appreciate you taking that time and Tara does a great job editing for us to watch. There are several things you've shared that I have done, but there is no way I would bother with trying to film them. That bearing packer you used, I've had one made by Lisle for 50 years, bought it in high school and now I'm very near retirement. They work great.
Great video as always Chad and thank you, I literally just spent last weekend doing this! I just have one question/comment.... Holy Hell Morryde!!! Don't you Powdercoat your suspensions? Your unit isn't that old and its rusting that badly??? Not a good look Morryde!!!! Keep up the great work!
A long thin silicone spatula works well for scooping the used grease out of the hub. Just replace it with a new one before your wife notices it missing from the kitchen drawer. 😜
It appears you have oil bath hubs on your trailer. I base this on you have the screw-on plastic caps that are used for viewing the oil level. Oil bath bearings run much cooler than grease in my experience. Why did you change to grease?
Thanks chad. I haven’t done mine yet. Where and how do you get the pads and seals for an rv. If was my truck i would go to the auto parts store and give them the yr make and model Thanks!!
Noticed the rust on those cross bars that we could see , may I suggest a rust converter product,then a coating of Raptor paint coating, Australian product available in the USA. An old bearing race is good to use as a seal drift when taping them down , obviously the bigger bearing. Good video,I think that if owners of these big RVs can't do this service work themselves, they probably shouldn't be driving them on the road ,it requires skills and abilities,because it saves money and time and can get them out of predicaments . Q your Pin Box, you upgraded it didn't you ,reason I ask I've seen statements that they shouldn't be changed from factory spec in some instances,no frame warranty or something. Cheers
Our pin box is the MORryde rubber pin box and is stock from GDRV on the TH models. There is a bit of controversy right now on after-market pin boxes that are not approved by Lippert, particularly its potential to cause excess frame flex. Also see: changinglanesrv.com/rv-frame-flex-our-opinion/
@@ChangingLanes thanks,I purposely didn't mention the F word ,it certainly is a big concern for many ,and now there are some happy customers and there's very unhappy customers.
ever thought of getting with Liquid springs and see about a sponsor ? power brakes also . i know opposite of this vlog about saving money because you'll be looking at about $50k ( i might be wrong ) all around truck and the RV) if full price
Another awesome maintenance video Chad! Not sure if its me or the video, but seems like theres a good amount of rust spots on the frame and other components. Any concern there?
Just wanted to comment on the EZ Lube system and the MorRyde wet bolts. First I used to be an EZ Lube advocate. That is until my rear seals pushed out and ruined 3 of my four backing plates with grease intrusion. There is no cleaning them up after that to where they will function properly. Fortunately new complete backing plates are not terrible expensive, but it's still money I would hope not to spend. I will never attempt to use the EZ Lube system again. Regarding the MorRyde wet bolts, I have had a terrible time with a couple of those simply refusing to take grease. I have pulled them apart, made sure the passages are clear, repositioned them at 45 degrees right or left of TDC. I'm about to do it again. Don't have an answer for that. Just frustrating. Love the system otherwise, just tired of having to completely dismantle the wet bolts to get them to take grease. Any responses, or suggestions would be a great help. Love your channel.
An idea, attempt jacking up your trailer to take weight off the wet bolt(s) in question, then attempt to add grease. I had the same issue with a couple of mine not taking grease but this fixed my issue and hopefully helps with yours. Good luck!
@@sethbergquist1047 Thanks for the response. I've tried every combination of jacking and weight release without success on the one that holds the equalizer. I'll just have to dismantle it and see what the problem is.
Hate to be "that guy", but the tool that you used to test the hub and brake temperature was an infrared thermometer, not a laser interferometer: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravitational-wave_observatory#Laser_interferometers
UPDATE (May 2024): The proper torque for our wheels is 140 ft. lbs., not 120, as I stated in the video. We have 17.5" aluminum wheels with 9/16" studs (with coned lug nuts). Be sure to research the proper torque for your particular setup.
UPDATE (May 2024): It is VERY IMPORTANT to use blue Loctite on the brake caliper mounting bolts, or they can potentially back out. We know because ours backed out, and the caliper came loose, locking up our wheel.
Great video Chad, just a couple of suggestions having been a mechanic for 50+ years. You might want to put another piece of cardboard under the hub after you pull the wheels off. Dropping a freshly greased bearing in the dirt is very disappointing as you'll have to clean and re-grease again. Also rotate the hub when you are tightening the axle nut to seat the bearings. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tips!
If one pad wears faster than the other the caliper isn't sliding on the slide pins. They need grease, too! - Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
I know some people hate this but here's a short terminology lesson. The tapered roller bearing is made up of a cup (outer race) and an assembled cone (inner race, rollers and a cage). So, not a race and a bearing, but a cup and an assembled cone. Sorry to anyone that thinks I'm being picky but I think we should promote good practice.
Being the one who produces instructional videos for work, I really felt that "filming projects makes them take three times as long." I'd like it twice if I could! 😆
What's even funnier is this is my 3rd time filming it! Hence, the old footage. LOL
Hey Chad: Great video! I also wanted to comment on the greasing of the bearings. You did a great job, but take it from a bearing industry professional for over 44 years- you don't need to put any grease inside the middle of the hub- it's no way going to migrate back into the bearings, so you're just adding heat buildup and wasting grease. The only things that need the grease are the bearings and very little on the grease seal. Two things about this: 1) grease acts like an insulator and too much will actually elevate your hub temperatures and degrade your braking, and 2) And just one more fact about snuggling up the tension nut when re-assembling: you should be turning the hub by hand while snugging the nut to "set" the grease, and you may want to allow for maybe 1/3 or 1/2 turn back-off to allow for bearing clearance due to heat depending on how it feels. You did point out rocking the hub laterally to see if it's too lose which is highly advisable. I will also tell you that in my opinion, Chicago Rawhide (CR) Seals from SKF are the best seal to run, as they have the patented "wave seal" design that wipes the shat diameter back and forth during rotation the seal contact surface away from the seal's contact point. I mention single lip because most people thick a double lip seal is better, when in fact if dirt gets in between the double lips, it will actually grind down the shaft finish, and I know you've seen grooves like that before.
Seanbhaney is correct, an added note if you put to much in the center section it can heat up when moving and actually vacuum out the grease from the bearings. But great video.
It is worth a mention that when you get grease on the brake disk or inside of the drum clean it very well with brake cleaner. For some of us just looking at grease will cause it to be places we don't want.
Great video Chad, the tip on how pop off the seal is genius!
You really are a natural teacher Chad. We tow an enclosed car trailer and it’s due for maintenance so this was helpful. Great video.
Thanks for all you do Chad. You make it simple for the less mechanically inclined
Great video, Chad! I know that was a ton of work to video…times 6!! Thank you for such a thorough video!!
Great video as always Chad. Just maintenanced our IS as yours and found the inner races on both inside and outside bearings had some brown discoloring. Sent pics to Morryde and they said as long as the color was brown and not blue, just scotch brite them clean and pack and place them back in the hub per manual. Scotch brite cleaned them to new and reinstalled.
I like to get all my customers replacement trailer bearing and seals from Napa Auto parts. I take the end tabs from the boxes put in a ziplock bag and tell them to keep them in the trailer so if they have a brake down they can take that to any Napa in the country and they have the part numbers.
Chad;
We bought a NEW camper a short time ago, I checked the first hub and found almost NO grease! On the other 3 hubs I used the Dexter easy lube and it worked GREAT. HAPPY CAMPING
Oh no! that's not good! Glad you checked it! 👍🏼
Love the put the washer back on and pull trick.. Way better than trying to get the seal off after...
Great video Chad. I’m sure your helping a lot of people save money. This really is easy, a bit time consuming, and definately dirty. But doable for the average guy.
I've greased many a wheel bearing and one thing I can say is that any grease not in the bearings themselves is wasted grease and can add to the temperature of the hub assembly. The dexter system completely fills the cavity with grease that never sees the inners of the bearing, it just spins around and around. Thoroughly packing the bearing like you've shown here is very necessary but adding grease to the inside void is not. And, after the bearing is laid in both front and back, it's a good idea to compress a little bead of grease between the inner seal and the outer washer so as to provide a solid layer of grease (that the rolling grease) can ride against and remain in the bearing. My thoughts after hundreds of bearing maintenance cycles and not a single bearing loss. Thank you as usual for your wonderful, insightful videos. We'll see you out there somewhere. Todd in NH.
Thanks Chad. I put my disc brakes on myself and did oil bath instead of grease. Love them. Going to Morryde in August for my IS. Best uprade ever. All my upgrads are because of you.
Couple of quick items. Once you tighten the axle nut to snug, you should spin the hub, then loosen the nut that 1 flat. Second, why did you open the bleed screw to push the caliper piston back in? Typically you just push the piston in which in turn push’s the fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir. by opening the bleeder you take a chance in creating an air pocket in the caliper/brake system. Also you by opening that bleeder screw you will also need to top of the brake fluid.
Yeah, I was going to ask if that had been done after opening the bleeder valve.
Also, I guess you can simply loosen the cap on the brake reservoir to allow the fluid to be pushed back into it.
Thoughts?
I have been a full time Boon-Docker for over 42 years and have always done ALL my own repairs and maintenance on our RV. Now days you can't trust anyone and especially Camping World, La Masa RV, Aloha RV ETC. There about all the same. The more you can learn how to work on your RV the better.Talk to people and ask questions. Always do a Per Trip before you go anywhere.Walk around your RV and LOOK at EVERYTHING! You will be surprised at what you can find ahead of time and save you a lot of money and downtime.Take your time. be patient and even you can do it. Keep up the great work and stay safe out there.🙏🏻👍
First good video on packing wheel bearings on a RV with disc brakes. Thank You!
I've had issues with synthetic grease drying (Valvolene in this case) out so I stick with petroleum based grease. I like Lucas Red 'n Tacky BTW
Great video...two issues being a mechanic...when u use the washer trick to get your seal off..hammering the front part of the bearing you contact the cage assembly against the washer potentially damaging it... second outer pad wear usually means that the floating pin could be frozen and you never checked them prior to putting the caliper and bolts back on....
The caliper bushings were all free and loose. But, yea, I could have mentioned that. I also could have greased them.
So, if removing the seal that way. The issue is not really possible bearing damage but damage to washer?
Great tips, Chad. Love the video and the time taken for thorough explanations!
Thanks Chad! Love your maintenance videos of such important tasks such as this. They really break down the barriers of fear to take care of these needs so that I know things are truly taken care of. Being prepared to complete this is so important. Love tinkering with my vehicles.
Great maintenance education video about a subject that many people never think about. I grew up in the 60s learning brake (drum) & bearings maintenance from my Dad this video was a mirror image of what I learned with one exception. I learned how to hand pack bearings (he never trusted the bearing cone). In the 70s I worked in a service garage and when those mechanics found out I knew how to pack bearings I was their “man Friday”. One last comment is by doing this you understand the importance of maintaining the wheel assembly. Thanks again Chad
Love all of your technical videos! It's much appreciated!! I always learn something from your technical skills!!! Thanks a bunch, Mike Mezo.
Best job I've seen on disk brakes and bearings. You done an awesome job thanks.
You make it look easy. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Nice work Chad, as usual, you give excellent explanations for what you are doing and the reasons why you do this.Thank you
As usual, your how to video's are well put together. If and when we do get a trailer, I'll remember your video and keep up with my maintenance as you do.
We have MorRyde suspension and the 6 point legs. I pick up the wheels after I break the lug nuts.
We have the IS, and I just used the EZ Lub for the bearings. No worries about excess pressure, as I only have manual grease guns. And oh yeah, there's a *lot* of work getting the IS and the bearings greased! On the first wheel, doing the IS, I started to think I was doing something wrong, as I'd squeezed that handle so many times, and wasn't seeing any grease coming out. Then I finally saw the old stuff oozing out, then the new. I forget how much grease they each took, but I had to go buy more, as I'd underestimated how much I'd need. The bearings didn't take nearly so much, and by then I was more confident. At this point, I think maybe I'll get a cordless grease gun to go with my other cordless tools. But maybe I should just do the work, help build up those arms! We had a problem with the IS, where (probably scraped along the bottom somehow) one shock had the bottom part sheared off, came out of the bracket at the bottom. We ended up losing one brake line, and the pads on that one. That was not fun to fix, though Morryde was quite helpful, and a mobile tech did the hard parts. Next time we're in the north IN area, we plan to get Morryde to give the whole system a thorough going-over, including alignment, as we think one wheel out of six is slightly out. And maybe we'll have them re-grease everything while they're at it.
The first time I took the wheels off our rig, I found that on one side, they were *way* over-torqued. As you say, the damage is done when that happens. I wonder if I should see about having the lugs removed and replaced. Apparently, when the RV manufacturer put it together, whoever worked on that side just went with the air impact, "more is better" approach. I've found that on cars, too, where a tire shop went nuts on the torque. I've actually removed all the wheels from a car, carried them to a tire shop, and had new tires put on and balanced. I didn't care about saving whatever minor cost of having them put on the car, I just didn't want them torqued to 300.
Good Job! Don't know your brake system well. But I change pads on other items (motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc') all the time and when I do, I use a pry bar to open up distance between old pad (trash) & then install new ones. Saves all that time with the bleeding procedure you mention. But I could be wrong with your system? Also it's a good time to pump the brakes several times to get hydraulics pumped back up so when you need to brake it's good to go.
Thumbs up for a brother 🇺🇸
Always love your maintenance/mod videos. I also have the MorRyde IS suspension and disc brake mod on my GD Reflection 5th wheel. It wasn't clear in the video if you actually drained some brake fluid out of the caliper when compressing the piston with the C clamp and loosening the bleed fittings and/or if you had to refill the reservoir. I've changed many disc brakes and always just slowly compressed the caliper piston as you did after first loosening the brake reservoir cap for venting. Usually never had to add fluid after the maintenance.
Yes.. just a tiny bit of brake fluid. Not enough that I needed to add more.
Thanks for the awesome tip to remove the grease seal using the washer and nut!
Great video as always. You removed a couple springs behind the hub. I didn't see you put any back. Did you miss a step?
Been watching your channel for two years and don't even have an RV but had boats on trailers and those too large to for trailers. Many similar issues are common to both. Your DIY is informative and to have a to have an amazing supportive wife involved is a perfect combo.
Chad, should you have been rotating that hub when you were tightening it down. That was the method I was taught to use on car hubs back in the day but things may have changed since then. Keep the good stuff coming.
I have just started doing my own brakes and bearings due to RV service people causing me to buy a new axiel. At this time that is the easiest job I forgot how to do. Putting 600 miles on my axel this weekend thus far no heat on the bearing area.
You provided great videography of the steps to do this maintenance. Well done, and very helpful... thank you.
Great video, I have no mechanical experience but I think I can do this.
Just bought a 24 ft. fixerupper.
We have taken our I.S. to MoRryde in Indiana August of 2022 and then New Horizon in Kansas September of 2023 both times the alignment and maintenance were done. New Horizon was cheaper and they did rotate the tires on the three axle’s. Both times it was done in a day. MorRyde did feed us lunch. I’m a lot older than you and don’t have the tools to do the maintenance.
“Greasesicle” 👍🏻😄. Awesome video! We’ll be at MORryde for our new IS and disc brakes next week.
Awesome! Tell them we said HI! 😊
Great job Chad.. you are very neat and pay a lot of attention to details.. I recently did my brakes but unlike your rig, I have the old drum brakes..
Good video on a often miss understood process.
Good detail. Any chance damaging the inner bearings using that method to remove the seal?
I just got a small enclosed for towing a motorbike. It has the Dexter Ez lube. I've decided to take it apart old school ever second time.
i have never seen a grease application that begged so much for an electric grease gun 🤣 but i do hope those greasy hand prints got cleaned off the rotors before calipers went back on. couldn't tell if i missed it or not, and that's an application where 100% brake function is needed
Great job
So far so good with the dexter system ,,but you hit on the best way to use it for sure…..
Awesome video Chad. Thanks alot
A most excellent video!! Thanks for the information!
Very good video. Very thoroughly explained.
I have grown up doing my own maintenance, retired 45 year aircraft mechanic. By doing as much of your own maintenance, as you said, you save a lot of money. You can be more assured as to quality of work done and the more you do, the more you learn.
The old adage, knowledge is power, is never more true than when you do have to revert to having something done. You can talk to the mechanic or shop and, trust me, you will be treated differently than if you know nothing of what is being accomplished. Plus, by talking to other maintenance techs you can learn and they will explain helpful tips and / or tricks.
Great video Chad. By doing your own work you also have the luxury of timetable to accomplish. Do it all in one time or spread it out over a day or two.
You explained this task about as thorough and complete as could be done. 👍👍
Thank you! 😊
Depending on size of your bearings, you can pack 2 bearings at a time. Pu the inner (large) bearing in the tool first then the outer (smaller) one will fit partially inside the larger one. Put cap on tool and pump grease into both bearings.
The trick with the Dexter EZLube is to spin the wheel while injecting grease. Also go slow. Those battery powered grease guns can inject lots of grease fast.
Interesting idea packing 2 at once! 😊 👍🏼 👊🏼
Great video Chad it was very informative and it reminded me of some things i had forgotten.
That’s a neat trick on removing seals- I will remember that. I’m also not a fan of the EZ lube…seems like you would use much more grease than the conventional method
True. And the hub will be 100% full of grease. Not sure that's a big deal though.. I guess it doesn't expand.
Good job. 👍
Watched your video on your brakes how about main chassis ground
Great and helpful as usual. I did not see you check and lube the metal sleeve where it contacts the rubber bushing. Not the quide pins btw. My pads were wearing on the outside pad faster so upon inspection, I could not move caliper at all when retracting the pads. It should be able to float after tightening down the guide pins. It needs to be able to move slightly on the metal sleeve and rubber bushing. After taking out the 2 bolts holding the caliper, pull out the metal sleeve from rubber boot. Should remove easily, mine was stuck. I cleaned polished and lubed the outside of the metal sleeve with brake caliper grease, and a little of the grease on the opening of the rubber. Slid in nicely and now my calipers can float. Wish I could post a break down on comment to make clearer.
You guys can have your RV after what I saw a storm do too rvs and the park
Hi Chad. Great "how I did it video". Given that you have the screw on clear dust caps, have you considered switching to oil bath bearing lube? Conversion requires a different rear seal but it's very simple and you can forget about packing bearings every 12 Mos or 12K miles..
Fantastic!
I use the easy lube between full maintenance. Half way through the year, I will pull the tire and put a few pumps in for the back bearing and shoot some extra grease into the front.
That's a great way to use it! 👍🏼
Thanks for the great video Chad! I was wondering if you could add to your blog post on the website what to do if there is in fact damage on the spindle, or any of the other surfaces you mentioned.
If my spindle or races were damaged, I would terminate DIY mode and get a trailer or RV shop to take over.
I use Mobil1 grease as well. Nice job.
You can run them hubs wet. Meaning, you remove the rubber plug in the middle of the cap and fill it halfway up with gear oil. You never have to pull the bearings again as long as it stays full of clean oil.
I run wet hubs on my gooseneck Dexter 12k axles.
I should add, you do run a preload on the hub bearings when running wet hubs to maintain seal integrity. About one flat turn on the nut is all it takes for re-used bearings.
Thanks for the video, quite informative. I have independent suspension on my fifth wheel (different manufacturer). Did you replace your lug nuts with something that does not have a cap on them? If so, can you share what you bought?
You got to be careful loosening the bleeder when compressing the brake cylinder. It will expel fluid and then you have to replace fluid. Good video.
Fantastic video! Keep up the good work!
Why didn’t you grease the caliber slide bolts? Does the bearing grease cup waste more grease than repacking by hand? I’m old and do it the old way. Which means wash and dry the bearings and repack by hand. I have the dexter axles on my trailer and I think the bearing greaser is for just to put a little fresh grease in. I plan on doing what you did this year. Another thing I did was to change all my tin covered lug nuts to solid lug nut. Stripped the cover on one when I bought new tires. Told the guy change all the lugs cause I don’t want to have a flat and have that happen to me. And it will happen in the pouring rain in the middle of nowhere. Like the how to videos you put out ,keep’em coming and smooth wide roads to you guys.
A jack stand is a good idea too in the event the bottle jack gives up the ghost.
Level up system was down.
The nice thing about the independent suspension is the single wheel can drop, and nothing happens. I let it all the way down when I grease that torsion bracket.
@@ChangingLanes Ah! good point.
Great video.
Gooood overview on the maintenance requirements of the Morryde IS!!! So simple that a guy thats almost as dumb as a box of frozen shrimp can understand😂
FYI, we have the Morryde IS on our coach we bought almost 2 years ago and wish you had made this video 2 years ago!!! I found the owners manual somewhat ambiguous and confusing on the nomenclature of the components. I ended up calling Morryde about 12 times or so and picking their brains for the right way to perform the maintenance as you did. Durring each one of these calls, I recommended Morryde make a video on the operation, maintenance, and function/description of the IS. I searched ALL over YT for a video like this one you just made/released and it did not exist.
Well, guess what??? The squeaky wheel got the grease, Morryde just released a very good video on their YT channel on this!!! Be sure to watch it and give them a like and subscribe as well.
Recommend you advertise that on your blog, so all hands are aware of this…its very insightful and helpful as to how the IS functions.
Great idea! done! 👍🏼
Hello. Was looking for what you use for bearing seals? Also what do you guys use for your tanks pull lever lubricant ? Thank you
Well done. Easy to understand. I've been dealing with trailers (boat, RV, enclosed etc) for 40 plus years, the only thing I can add is a trick my Dad taught me a long time ago for the seal and even bearing race install when required. Putting the seals and the races in the shop freezer for a couple of hours before hand will make them shrink a bit and slide in easier for ya. Note I said shop freezer, which means shop fridge. Gotta have one of those too...
Nice work! Thanks!
Axle maintenance is so super important! Thank goodness we have a TPMS for our motor motorhome and our single axle enclosed motorcycle trailer. One of our seals failed, and I only knew of the problem because of the temperature reading. Now we know to repack the bearings every 5000 miles and replace the brake shoes every 10,000 miles.
Thanks again for all of the past helpful videos!
Brendan & Lena
(For the trailer)
Great video-thanks, I really need to learn how to do this (well) myself. This video is a huge help. Also, thanks for the tip on the jack!
Great video and was just what I needed to understand the process. Question, I followed along with the packing of the bearings and adding grease to the races but how do you know you put enough grease in the races? Is there a concern with adding too much grease? How do you know you have enough. Thanks as always
I don't think there is a concern with too much grease. Particularly considering that the EZ-Lube completely fills the hub. I think too much is better than not enough.. 👍🏼
Hi Chad, I didnt see an EZ-Lube fitting on the disc brake hub though
Hi Chad I was searching in your videos for your comments on the current issues affecting GDRV an others in frame failures .. even if you don’t experience any of that it will be interesting to know your opinion . Big channels like yours will push this companies to produce better products .. beside the scary issues of fifth wheel frames that we currently see the overall quality of RVs is very poor and it is not going to change if we don’t mention it … other than that I like your videos
Thank you for asking for our take on this issue. We're honored that you value our opinion on this topic enough to ask us. We also understand how scary it can be to read some of the hype online.
While we have not had any frame issues, we have published a blog post summarizing what we've seen and read online as well as our own thoughts that will hopefully help you better understand this frame failure issue.
Please see: changinglanesrv.com/rv-frame-flex-our-opinion/
I have enjoyed keeping up with your travels over the past 2 years. Something you touched on that I thought about several times is how much extra effort it takes to film your repairs and share them with us. I appreciate you taking that time and Tara does a great job editing for us to watch. There are several things you've shared that I have done, but there is no way I would bother with trying to film them. That bearing packer you used, I've had one made by Lisle for 50 years, bought it in high school and now I'm very near retirement. They work great.
As simple as it is, I can't imagine it would ever need replacing unless I ran over it. LOL
How is. Tara feeling
Thanks for asking! She's hanging in there! 😊
Sending prayers
Why not place the grease fitting outward?... wouldn't be easier for lubrication after the ?
Great video as always Chad and thank you, I literally just spent last weekend doing this! I just have one question/comment.... Holy Hell Morryde!!! Don't you Powdercoat your suspensions? Your unit isn't that old and its rusting that badly??? Not a good look Morryde!!!! Keep up the great work!
A long thin silicone spatula works well for scooping the used grease out of the hub. Just replace it with a new one before your wife notices it missing from the kitchen drawer. 😜
It appears you have oil bath hubs on your trailer. I base this on you have the screw-on plastic caps that are used for viewing the oil level. Oil bath bearings run much cooler than grease in my experience. Why did you change to grease?
Did you also change the rotors? You didn't show if you did.
Hey Chad awhile ago you had a tool to remove the rear hub cap. Can you send me the link or is it no longer available
Thanks chad. I haven’t done mine yet. Where and how do you get the pads and seals for an rv. If was my truck i would go to the auto parts store and give them the yr make and model Thanks!!
Ask your manufacturer and they should have part numbers. 👍🏼 Order them ahead of time - many of the auto parts stores will not have the right things.
Are you driving on salted roads? There seems to be excessive surface rust on the IS components.
Well I don't know if you've ever tried it but black molly is the best grease you'll ever buy
Next time! 👍🏼
Noticed the rust on those cross bars that we could see , may I suggest a rust converter product,then a coating of Raptor paint coating, Australian product available in the USA.
An old bearing race is good to use as a seal drift when taping them down , obviously the bigger bearing.
Good video,I think that if owners of these big RVs can't do this service work themselves, they probably shouldn't be driving them on the road ,it requires skills and abilities,because it saves money and time and can get them out of predicaments .
Q your Pin Box, you upgraded it didn't you ,reason I ask I've seen statements that they shouldn't be changed from factory spec in some instances,no frame warranty or something.
Cheers
Our pin box is the MORryde rubber pin box and is stock from GDRV on the TH models. There is a bit of controversy right now on after-market pin boxes that are not approved by Lippert, particularly its potential to cause excess frame flex. Also see: changinglanesrv.com/rv-frame-flex-our-opinion/
@@ChangingLanes thanks,I purposely didn't mention the F word ,it certainly is a big concern for many ,and now there are some happy customers and there's very unhappy customers.
Are you going to address frame flex issues in the near future? We are looking to purchase a new truck and 5th wheel to full time. Trust your opinion.
ever thought of getting with Liquid springs and see about a sponsor ? power brakes also . i know opposite of this vlog about saving money because you'll be looking at about $50k ( i might be wrong ) all around truck and the RV) if full price
we're really happy with our MORryde IS on the RV. I looked into liquid springs for the truck, but they don't do stock 450s. Only the chassis-cab.
Another awesome maintenance video Chad! Not sure if its me or the video, but seems like theres a good amount of rust spots on the frame and other components. Any concern there?
I think surface rust is inevitable under there. It's never caused an issue for us, though.
Just wanted to comment on the EZ Lube system and the MorRyde wet bolts. First I used to be an EZ Lube advocate. That is until my rear seals pushed out and ruined 3 of my four backing plates with grease intrusion. There is no cleaning them up after that to where they will function properly. Fortunately new complete backing plates are not terrible expensive, but it's still money I would hope not to spend. I will never attempt to use the EZ Lube system again. Regarding the MorRyde wet bolts, I have had a terrible time with a couple of those simply refusing to take grease. I have pulled them apart, made sure the passages are clear, repositioned them at 45 degrees right or left of TDC. I'm about to do it again. Don't have an answer for that. Just frustrating. Love the system otherwise, just tired of having to completely dismantle the wet bolts to get them to take grease. Any responses, or suggestions would be a great help. Love your channel.
An idea, attempt jacking up your trailer to take weight off the wet bolt(s) in question, then attempt to add grease. I had the same issue with a couple of mine not taking grease but this fixed my issue and hopefully helps with yours. Good luck!
@@sethbergquist1047 Thanks for the response. I've tried every combination of jacking and weight release without success on the one that holds the equalizer. I'll just have to dismantle it and see what the problem is.
Hate to be "that guy", but the tool that you used to test the hub and brake temperature was an infrared thermometer, not a laser interferometer: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gravitational-wave_observatory#Laser_interferometers