Excellent tutorial. Subscribed. Have watched it about ten times in my own intake gasket journey. I tried my best to label the various cables and took pictures, too, but I don’t know how it’s going to work out, lol. What grit sandpaper were you using?
Cool vid, thanks for making it. Do you recommend replacing the quick-release heater hose fitting at the back of the intake with a normal hose fitting? I've heard they leak as they age. Also, the workshop manual I saw said intake bolts are torqued to 35 ft pounds and not 25? UPDATE: My heater hose snapped off so easily while trying to unscrew it, definitely replace it.
and always check timing after job is complete does take much to throw it out. just done one today even though it lined right back i still was 2 degrees -
I see you didn't speak about the egr valve portion of the intake gasket. I replaced my engine and noticed that the egr ports on the passenger cylinder head between 6 and 8 don't exsist. I'm trying to figure out why I keep getting a code 32 for the egr valve and the only thing I've figured is that my old engine never had the holes in the cylinder head and my reman engine does not have them either. is there something you can let me know regarding this? I've looked at all sorts of reman engines and none of them have these 2 ports on the passenger cylinder head. I can't find reman cylinder heads that show these ports either. I'm just trying to figure out my problem. my engine seems to run fine. but I still get the code 32. looking for some insight as to why this is being over looked.
How common is it for these intake manifold to warp or crack I swear I have a intake manifold leak on my 91 k1500 did it once ran great for 1 month then started missing at idle again
Ok so I for sure have top dead center set but my rotor isn't facing forwards. The number 1 piston is up, timing mark is at 0 on harmonic balancer but dist isn't right. When bought the truck #1 on cap started at like 7-8ish o'clock . Timing mark was about 180° from 0. Am I missing something or did previous owner mess up? 🤔
As long as the truck was running fine prior then you should be fine. When I removed mine it was practically facing the firewall. I’d say around 10 almost 11 o’clock. My truck was running in time prior to starting the job. Hopefully I’m not too late bud
Anyone have any idea what the black and blue harness on the far left connects to at 1:28 in the video. I got the job done but it seems like I either disconnected the harness during disassembly or it was already like that when I bought the truck.
how to find the location of the knock sensor, the wiring is short behind the distributor ,,, not the one near the oil pressure sensor, but the second one?
why bother bringing the engine to compression tdc if you are not going to turn it? just mark the position of the rotor in relation to the body. anyway you gonna need to adjust the base timing at the end.
I just found an oil leak on the upper driver side lf my 5.7. And god i hope it isn't coming from the intake.. Because that doesn't look like a cheap repair..
Hypothetically...What if its a 30 year old truck thats never had this kinda shit done to it befre and you happen to break....and i mean break..... TF outta two manifold bolts off in the engine....what then. Asking for a friend . Like i said hypothetically 😂
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Thanks for the detailed video. I did this on my 1991 C1500 4.3 with your video. Turned out great.
I need to change mine. I know i can do the job, I just dont want to mess up the timing but wish me luck
Guy at the shop told me it would take his guy about 4 hours to do this job. It's gonna be 4 hours cleaning!
Excellent tutorial. Subscribed. Have watched it about ten times in my own intake gasket journey.
I tried my best to label the various cables and took pictures, too, but I don’t know how it’s going to work out, lol.
What grit sandpaper were you using?
Also, I love your tools.
giving socket sizes need would have been a big plus.
Cool vid, thanks for making it. Do you recommend replacing the quick-release heater hose fitting at the back of the intake with a normal hose fitting? I've heard they leak as they age. Also, the workshop manual I saw said intake bolts are torqued to 35 ft pounds and not 25? UPDATE: My heater hose snapped off so easily while trying to unscrew it, definitely replace it.
The rear water ports being blocked off causes these engines to overheat. The correct gaskets have all 3 ports for each side fully open.
not on tbi engines.
I'll start tomorrow my project. Wish me luck.
and always check timing after job is complete does take much to throw it out. just done one today even though it lined right back i still was 2 degrees -
bolts are backward on the bracket you showed stud should be toward fron of engine with bracket off ac area
Excellent video my friend
I see you didn't speak about the egr valve portion of the intake gasket. I replaced my engine and noticed that the egr ports on the passenger cylinder head between 6 and 8 don't exsist. I'm trying to figure out why I keep getting a code 32 for the egr valve and the only thing I've figured is that my old engine never had the holes in the cylinder head and my reman engine does not have them either. is there something you can let me know regarding this? I've looked at all sorts of reman engines and none of them have these 2 ports on the passenger cylinder head. I can't find reman cylinder heads that show these ports either. I'm just trying to figure out my problem. my engine seems to run fine. but I still get the code 32. looking for some insight as to why this is being over looked.
HOW LONG SHOULD THIS TAKE
out of curiosity what type of racket was that you using seems to be battery i didn't notice a hose
Do the two covered sides of the gasket go to the back?
Yip
Will this cause coolant leak into oil pan??
Yes it could
How common is it for these intake manifold to warp or crack I swear I have a intake manifold leak on my 91 k1500 did it once ran great for 1 month then started missing at idle again
Great video, thank you
Ok so I for sure have top dead center set but my rotor isn't facing forwards. The number 1 piston is up, timing mark is at 0 on harmonic balancer but dist isn't right.
When bought the truck #1 on cap started at like 7-8ish o'clock . Timing mark was about 180° from 0.
Am I missing something or did previous owner mess up? 🤔
As long as the truck was running fine prior then you should be fine. When I removed mine it was practically facing the firewall. I’d say around 10 almost 11 o’clock. My truck was running in time prior to starting the job. Hopefully I’m not too late bud
what is the compnent called that the radeator hose attaches too? the one with the gasket that you need to replace if you take it off
Thermostat housing. Inside is the Thermostat
Nice job
+Diesel 158 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Could have demonstrated adjusting distributor one notch. Still a good video.
Thanks buddy
Anyone have any idea what the black and blue harness on the far left connects to at 1:28 in the video. I got the job done but it seems like I either disconnected the harness during disassembly or it was already like that when I bought the truck.
Goes to the tps
how to find the location of the knock sensor, the wiring is short behind the distributor ,,, not the one near the oil pressure sensor, but the second one?
Knock sensor is on passenger side of block under exhaust manifold
How long should I wait to start the truck ?
What would be the signs that this should be done on an engine?
If your leaking coolant or oil from the intake or if your coolant and oil is mixing
Can somebody please help me and tell me the dimensions of the nut that holds down the map sensor bracket. Before I lose my mind!!!!!!!
We're are u located so u can do mine
why bother bringing the engine to compression tdc if you are not going to turn it? just mark the position of the rotor in relation to the body. anyway you gonna need to adjust the base timing at the end.
Never use a sanding block those abrasives will go in engine
Don’t mark it where the hold down bracket was mark it on the side
What size tap did he use?
Probably a 3/8” by 16. A tap and die set will have measuring gauges.
garages are looking at 1300 bucks to do this
EXCELLENT ! ! !
Hot air intake
Great
I just found an oil leak on the upper driver side lf my 5.7. And god i hope it isn't coming from the intake.. Because that doesn't look like a cheap repair..
Of course this is a benzine engine 🙄 because I have a 6.5 on my suburban K2500
Wearing gloves smart
Hypothetically...What if its a 30 year old truck thats never had this kinda shit done to it befre and you happen to break....and i mean break..... TF outta two manifold bolts off in the engine....what then. Asking for a friend . Like i said hypothetically 😂