Thank you so much for this video. I have been struggling for weeks regarding the voltage drop from my battery terminals. I changed the alternator, battery, and finally found the issue with the ground connection from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car! Thanks again!
So while I understand a little about being careful so the wrench doesn't contact the body, no one ever really explains why. If you do this, can it cause permanent damage? How, and how do you diagnose and fix? Also, your comment about the tight connection in relation to oxidation was new to me. How do you prevent it? Some say the connections are super important, but don't tell you how to clean everything and them the big one, prevent it. No one ever really explains these basic things. I've watched so many videos about using a multimeter and testing, now know how to read wiring diagrams, all the basic terms and concepts, but still feel like I am missing something. Thanks for this video.
I've been told that arcing the positive to a ground can send an over voltage through the electrical system and potentially blow modules. I've never had that happen but better safe than sorry considering how expensive some of them can be. And if done long enough it can also cause the contact points to be welded together/cause burns. I can't assume that is good for the battery. Having a tight connection is important to prevent corrosion because it basically creates a cold weld by the contact points being so tightly smashed together that they do not allow oxygen to penetrate between them. If air can't get to the copper it will not oxidize thus creating resistance just like the sheathing on The wire prevents. It's exactly how a crimp works as well.
It means that Siri or Alexa or one of those bots has been spying on you. They have even recorded what you've been doing in your bed with your secret lover.
Great videos! Nice find and fix in this one. Looks like this is the same truck where you serviced the battery and replaced the alternator in prior videos. When that alternator was tested in the prior video you tested directly on the battery posts, which made it look like the alternator was bad. Maybe the alternator wasn't bad after all? In this video you solved that connection issue at the battery terminal, so do you have second thoughts about previously replacing the alternator?
It was helpfull! I have a problem with my elantra, charging and not and had a lot of corrosion on post and terminals. Have new terminals will install tomorrow hope clears my problem.Brand new alternator after market and battery.
i have a question, I have a 2006 focus and every time the high fan kick on my battery voltage drop to 12.5 v and when the fan shuts off the voltage goes back to 13.5. i replace the alternator thinking it might have been a voltage regulator but i still have the same issue. also my positive battery cable get super hot. do you have any recommendation on what can be causing thew low voltage?
Hi. Thanks for the video. For me, when the car is idle, the rpm drops too low and the battery light flickers, recently changed the alternator and battery. Also at that moment car starts shaking. The battery light is always dim (on, but not full brightness) after changing the alternators. Any idea why this might happen?
I have a question! During hot summer days in the middle east the car starts to overheat 108-111C when i use the AC on max even if it is night, but i tried put ac on 1 only! And it did work! 3hrs on a hot day with temp below 95C which is great!.. When it overheats i notice the voltage drops from 13.4 to 12.5.. Is oveaheating related to low voltage?
I got replaced the terminals (2000 Toyota sienna). However, with A/C, front and back fans on, the voltage fluctuate and drops to 11.7V. Alternator was replaced 3 times with reman version. Last one from Denso. Hot wire that comes from alternator was replaced also. Battery DieHard 750CCA brand new. Any ideas?
@@Abnesis You unplug alternator, your car will switch engine to battery power at best, in worth case scenario you risk to burn your fuses, the main one at least for sure, and engine will likely stall. The test you thought off doesn't make any sense anyway. If alternator is new or reman, it will show 14 volts without load. It's bad idea to test alternator that way. My guess at some power distribution the end load (unit) may give a short circuit. Here is a voltage drop. Possibly but less likely some hot wires sheath went bad and touching car chassis. It happened sadden in Nevada +40C heat at night during Vegas trip. Big bummer. Usually semiconductors responsible for such unpredictable voltage behavior. But Voltage regulator is a part of alternator and I went through 3 alternators. BTW, interior lights still flicker when car is running - sign of alternative current, which again - can't be, since rectifier was replaced along with alternator.
I have a 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan with a brand new alternator but when I disconnect the hot battery terminal it completely dies. I have a MaxiCOM reader that I plugged into it while I was driving it and it gave me 13.7 but when I stop and it's idling and remove the hot wire terminal the car dies completely. What do you think the problem could be?
@@TheRoadLessChosenI figured the problem. I had to replace the whole tipem fuse box. It's working fine now but this is the last time I would ever buy a dodge or chrysler.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been struggling for weeks regarding the voltage drop from my battery terminals. I changed the alternator, battery, and finally found the issue with the ground connection from the negative battery terminal to the body of the car! Thanks again!
So while I understand a little about being careful so the wrench doesn't contact the body, no one ever really explains why. If you do this, can it cause permanent damage? How, and how do you diagnose and fix? Also, your comment about the tight connection in relation to oxidation was new to me. How do you prevent it? Some say the connections are super important, but don't tell you how to clean everything and them the big one, prevent it. No one ever really explains these basic things. I've watched so many videos about using a multimeter and testing, now know how to read wiring diagrams, all the basic terms and concepts, but still feel like I am missing something. Thanks for this video.
I've been told that arcing the positive to a ground can send an over voltage through the electrical system and potentially blow modules. I've never had that happen but better safe than sorry considering how expensive some of them can be. And if done long enough it can also cause the contact points to be welded together/cause burns. I can't assume that is good for the battery. Having a tight connection is important to prevent corrosion because it basically creates a cold weld by the contact points being so tightly smashed together that they do not allow oxygen to penetrate between them. If air can't get to the copper it will not oxidize thus creating resistance just like the sheathing on The wire prevents. It's exactly how a crimp works as well.
I got this video recommended to me the MORNING my battery died 😂😂
It means that Siri or Alexa or one of those bots has been spying on you. They have even recorded what you've been doing in your bed with your secret lover.
Thank you! 👏🏼👏🏼 your videos are very helpful
Glad you like them!
Great videos! Nice find and fix in this one.
Looks like this is the same truck where you serviced the battery and replaced the alternator in prior videos. When that alternator was tested in the prior video you tested directly on the battery posts, which made it look like the alternator was bad. Maybe the alternator wasn't bad after all? In this video you solved that connection issue at the battery terminal, so do you have second thoughts about previously replacing the alternator?
Good eye! Yes I ended up taking the new alternator out and trying the original and with the cleaned terminal the old one was just fine.
Been in the same predicament and issue here on the mainland (New England).
What if the connectors are a part of the wiring?
It was helpfull! I have a problem with my elantra, charging and not and had a lot of corrosion on post and terminals. Have new terminals will install tomorrow hope clears my problem.Brand new alternator after market and battery.
Having similar issue with my 2016 f150 so I’ll check your suggestion. New subscriber here and I like your common sense and no drama approach!
Yes ! Helpful.
i have a question, I have a 2006 focus and every time the high fan kick on my battery voltage drop to 12.5 v and when the fan shuts off the voltage goes back to 13.5. i replace the alternator thinking it might have been a voltage regulator but i still have the same issue. also my positive battery cable get super hot. do you have any recommendation on what can be causing thew low voltage?
Yes it was helpful ! ❤
thanks...exactly what i have going on.
My positive terminal is very corroded, I’m wondering if this is enough to cause the battery light to come on
Hi. Thanks for the video. For me, when the car is idle, the rpm drops too low and the battery light flickers, recently changed the alternator and battery. Also at that moment car starts shaking. The battery light is always dim (on, but not full brightness) after changing the alternators. Any idea why this might happen?
yep
Did you check voltage on your alternator while engine it's on with alternator unplugged?
Try cleaning the throttle body.
@@Abnesis Will let you know. So you're saying unplug alternator, then start engine, and check the voltage of the alternator?
@@stephenbeck5993 Hi. Cleaned the throttle body few months back. Clean it again?
I have a question! During hot summer days in the middle east the car starts to overheat 108-111C when i use the AC on max even if it is night, but i tried put ac on 1 only! And it did work! 3hrs on a hot day with temp below 95C which is great!..
When it overheats i notice the voltage drops from 13.4 to 12.5..
Is oveaheating related to low voltage?
Same
Nice tip
I got replaced the terminals (2000 Toyota sienna). However, with A/C, front and back fans on, the voltage fluctuate and drops to 11.7V. Alternator was replaced 3 times with reman version. Last one from Denso. Hot wire that comes from alternator was replaced also. Battery DieHard 750CCA brand new. Any ideas?
ye any ideas
Did you check voltage on your alternator while engine it's on with alternator unplugged?
@@Abnesis You unplug alternator, your car will switch engine to battery power at best, in worth case scenario you risk to burn your fuses, the main one at least for sure, and engine will likely stall. The test you thought off doesn't make any sense anyway. If alternator is new or reman, it will show 14 volts without load. It's bad idea to test alternator that way. My guess at some power distribution the end load (unit) may give a short circuit. Here is a voltage drop. Possibly but less likely some hot wires sheath went bad and touching car chassis. It happened sadden in Nevada +40C heat at night during Vegas trip. Big bummer. Usually semiconductors responsible for such unpredictable voltage behavior. But Voltage regulator is a part of alternator and I went through 3 alternators. BTW, interior lights still flicker when car is running - sign of alternative current, which again - can't be, since rectifier was replaced along with alternator.
Any solutions for this?
Think im having this problem right now. Find out tomorrow! Lol
My q50 had the same problem
The green crusty will always give all kinds of problems.
Use outer tooth lock washers
Those cheap auto parts battery terminals are a problem as well.
Nice
I have a 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan with a brand new alternator but when I disconnect the hot battery terminal it completely dies. I have a MaxiCOM reader that I plugged into it while I was driving it and it gave me 13.7 but when I stop and it's idling and remove the hot wire terminal the car dies completely. What do you think the problem could be?
Figure it out?
Isn’t the red one supposed to always be the first one put on and the last one taken off?
@@TheRoadLessChosenI figured the problem. I had to replace the whole tipem fuse box. It's working fine now but this is the last time I would ever buy a dodge or chrysler.
Visual Inspection first.
Oh goodie.....another dirty connection vid.