The thing that gets me with these stoves is the amount of details they give. One video says drill 32 holes 5/32" in diameter 1/2" up from the bottom rim. The next one says to drill 5 or 6 holes about the size of your thumb in the flat part of the can. Then after he did that he said they're not really thumb size but they're finger size. That should work. This one was good. It told number of holes and sizes, why it didn't work and what made it better. Very informative. Thanks.
I tried making one, back in the day when they where expensive. Now I have a cheap stainless steel ohuhuhu one, works very well and so far no rust. Less smoke , more even burn, and cheap!
That soot is normal. That's not smoke. All dry wood, or any wood will do this unless you add alcohol to the wood, and have it soak in overnight to reduce the amount of soot. Adding a heat diffuser, a cake pan with air holes, or a paint can lid will prevent the pot from getting covered in soot. The paint can, what ever you use will be covered in black soot instead. Rub the interior of the gasifier with dish soap so the soot can be easily removed. Hope this helps! :) Melissa
Well explained and demonstrated .. thanks. I'm looking to making something similar but want to use Stainless Steel. Having lived in a high corrosion (humid coastal environment), I have become somewhat 'sensitised' to seeing things around me rusting away 🙄😏. Will have to do some foraging and see what I can find lying around that will fit the bill. Take care ..
If you have skill to work stainless steel then that would be the way to go. You might take a look at the Solo Stove for your design. Its a nice little wood stove. Have fun.
To reduce soot you need a long chimney and preferably swirling circular airflow. Look at the pyrolino stove. It’s a mishmash of a TLUD stove principle and the numerous flame vortex out there. Simple but effective.
You can also wait for the fire to settle down first after just lighting the stove. Wait for the flames to be way down before putting the pot on to cook. That's another way to prevent that black soot from forming on your pot.
The smoke is a consequence of not getting a good woodgas burn. I've had such a terrible experience making wood gasifier stoves that I am now making a FireBox rip-off. Still reading? Ok, I have had massive airflow issues, difficulty starting them, billowing smoke and they just went out with the slightest breeze or would not burn properly. I have followed some precise instructions, which included a very interesting demonstration, and tried more/bigger holes, which negated the woodgas effect (smoke!). No more for me, I moved onto plain hobo stoves and cat can stoves. Thanks for the information, no I know I'm not alone.
I can't guess why you had problems with your stove. The first gasifier I made worked ok but I thought it could be improved so I played around with the design. I'm not really a wood stove guy, they are interesting and fun to make and play with. I do have a couple of the folding type I carry for survival purposes especially in winter when it would be difficult to build a fire in the snow.
@@planetsideagent Airflow is definitely the problem. Unless you are lucky and make the right number of holes at the right size and place, even then, a slight (but continuous) breeze will want to reverse the air flow and kill the whole process, snuffing the fire with zero effort. I've tried with a really big windblock, different sizes of cans and the result is always the same; if a breeze comes through the top of the stove, bye-bye fire.. Nothing against people who like these stoves, but my experience has been such that I will not depend on something I can barely get going for 5 minutes. I do have to say that a perfectly windless day here does not exist... makes for very interesting bike rides, let me tell you!
@@Flashahol Interesting to find your comment - I'm in the middle of about my 6th experiment and wondering what I'm doing wrong. The weird thing is seeing other people use them and having no problems (or not reporting them, maybe). I think you're right that people tend to increase the air flow (that's what Planetside Agent is doing through these design tweaks), and they basically turn into slightly heavier hobo stoves with secondary air fed up top - burn like crazy, big yellow flames, smoke, soot and tar all over the pot after you've fed them for 15 minutes. People who get it right restrict the air intake and primary (lower) holes, and sometimes have tricks to try to create a low pressure to suck air down the burn chamber and up the sides, and they get that nice bluer flame, a steady burn, very little smoke or tar, and heat for long enough to cook and make a hot drink (from a smallish can, not even a quart pot) with just one load inside, no feeding. Check out Outside Edge Bushcraft's channel, for example - he doesn't cheat with pellets either, just battens a chunk of hardwood down to sticks and bangs it on. Four things might explain his success, as well as the good choice of hole sizes - he chooses wood well, he gives it a really good hot starter fire on top of the main wood, he always uses a wind break, and his design also has a "flame concentrator" above the jets, which helps protect them from gusts as well. But I have to admit it's a dark art to me - literally, the things always go out shortly after the starter fire's done, and they do it even when there's no wind. ua-cam.com/video/oUG0Z1pa0Hk/v-deo.html He's in Britain, same as me, windy and wet. Good build video and a test video with ridiculously long burn time, boiling three kettles of water. I might have to go back to some kind of hobo stove. It's just so frustrating not being able to crack it.
Nice explanation of what seems to be a common mystery... how to get the DIY stoves to draw like the factory ones. It seems that the solo and/or bush buddy stoves have that sealed bottom but still have the bottom side holes the same as the DIY's and I'm wondering if that design gives them the perfect amount or correct designed draw? It doesn't seem to make much sense but perhaps too much air can be a detriment as much as too little.
After watching some videos by Heath Putnam I'm not sure what is the correct answer on stove draw. I may go back and do some more experimenting, if I do I'll use wood pellets for more consistence testing since wood/twigs can be real variable.
@@planetsideagent These are two very accurate comments: 1.- Entering too much air will cause the gas to escape and be wasted. Remember that its combustion is a bit slow, and much more so if it has so much ventilation at the point of combustion. It requires high temperature to improve its combustion. An air intake regulation device comes in handy. 2.- The pellets are compacted wood, this helps to have more mass of wood inside the stove, and makes the circulation not flames, but air and hot gas. (an additional contribution) *** Remember that if the top hole of the stove is smaller, the gas is concentrated and combustion is more efficient. If it requires so much ventilation above, it is because below it is not ventilating well. This turns the gasifier into a simple wood burning stove.
Hardware cloth is a wire mesh that comes in various sizes, 1/4"- 1/2" etc Its usual galvanized for outdoor uses like covering openings to keep animals, mice, rats, etc. out.
How do you fit the progresso soup can inside? Do you have to stretch the opening to the quart can or reem it out bigger with a dremmel tool? I got the metal quart and progresso can but noticed it didn't quite fit in .
The progresso can will seat into inside grooves that are the underside of the paint can top that holds the lid.. Place the paint can top down then center the progresso can. i use a 2x4 wood block and tap the progresso can down until it bottoms out/seats in. its a snug fit but that's why it works so well, it won't come out.
@@planetsideagent ok great thanks so much for your help . Its actually very cool trying to learn new stuff and build things. Kind of like I discovered the casio g shock watches have a trimmer adjustment cap and you can adjust the speed of the watch . I had one a gd-350 that was losing one second every day and over a month of tracking it and adjustments I got to gain one second every 7 days. So I was able to making it 7 times more accurate plus gain a second instead on lose one.
Now there is no paint can with the steel bottom. They are all plastics, and I thought that was your case, but you actually got with the steel base and cut them off. In other videos, I saw they left the bottom alone except to make holes on the sides.
I can still find unused new 1 quart paint cans in my local hardware store. In order to use the Progresso can as the burn chamber and get it to fit into the underside of the paint can lid you must cut the bottom of the can out. The ones where they don't cut the bottom out use a different build technique and force and secure the burn can in from the top of the paint can. Both techniques work the cut the bottom out is easier.
A gasifier stove is a doubled walled stove where air between the walls of the burn chamber is heated by the fire and exits thru holes in the top of the burn chamber and ignites wood gas given off by the wood fire. Here is a link to a paint can gasifier stove build where you can see the double wall design. Its the video I watched that inspired me to build my versions ua-cam.com/video/rTPTenSPqs4/v-deo.html
I haven't made a dedicated how to video but I did make some showing how I modified and some techniques on constructing mine. Try these: ua-cam.com/video/Agl557eQXmw/v-deo.html Original stove design video (a good video): ua-cam.com/video/rTPTenSPqs4/v-deo.html My discussion on paint can stove designs: ua-cam.com/video/Ld3Hkeajouc/v-deo.html My discussion on how I built the stoves: ua-cam.com/video/gc3F-RvDK5s/v-deo.html
those are fun try making it taller hard to find tall cans though. Tall makes it burn better causes draft. see ua-cam.com/video/pgkCzSJJsB4/v-deo.html dont forget to keep having fun!
The thing that gets me with these stoves is the amount of details they give. One video says drill 32 holes 5/32" in diameter 1/2" up from the bottom rim. The next one says to drill 5 or 6 holes about the size of your thumb in the flat part of the can. Then after he did that he said they're not really thumb size but they're finger size. That should work.
This one was good. It told number of holes and sizes, why it didn't work and what made it better. Very informative. Thanks.
I tried making one, back in the day when they where expensive. Now I have a cheap stainless steel ohuhuhu one, works very well and so far no rust. Less smoke , more even burn, and cheap!
On of the best hobo stoves and videos I have seen! Congrats!
Thanks 👍
That soot is normal. That's not smoke. All dry wood, or any wood will do this unless you add alcohol to the wood, and have it soak in overnight to reduce the amount of soot. Adding a heat diffuser, a cake pan with air holes, or a paint can lid will prevent the pot from getting covered in soot. The paint can, what ever you use will be covered in black soot instead. Rub the interior of the gasifier with dish soap so the soot can be easily removed. Hope this helps! :) Melissa
Well explained and demonstrated .. thanks.
I'm looking to making something similar but want to use Stainless Steel. Having lived in a high corrosion (humid coastal environment), I have become somewhat 'sensitised' to seeing things around me rusting away 🙄😏. Will have to do some foraging and see what I can find lying around that will fit the bill.
Take care ..
If you have skill to work stainless steel then that would be the way to go.
You might take a look at the Solo Stove for your design.
Its a nice little wood stove.
Have fun.
I wouldn't worry about the smoke ,I would just be glad to be able to cook some food for me and my family.
Need a closed bottom for hot air to cycle and get draw. Need holes on the inside sides of the inner can, and holes that draw fresh air..
To reduce soot you need a long chimney and preferably swirling circular airflow. Look at the pyrolino stove. It’s a mishmash of a TLUD stove principle and the numerous flame vortex out there. Simple but effective.
Heath Putnam has a good video on primary to secondary air intake, to figure out the size and amount of holes
I've watched many of Heath's videos, great resource. Unfortunately I had already built these stove before I discovered him. 🙂
I made one..
Yours is really well crafted..
I'm gonna upgrade my design after watching this..
Great video...
Thanks.
You can also wait for the fire to settle down first after just lighting the stove. Wait for the flames to be way down before putting the pot on to cook. That's another way to prevent that black soot from forming on your pot.
Thanks for all of the tips. I'll give them a try.
If you put a drill bit in the gasifier jet hols and bend it over, you can create a vortex effect, which helps to heat the pot better
Great tip, I'll give it a try.
One mans trash is another mans treasure
The smoke is a consequence of not getting a good woodgas burn.
I've had such a terrible experience making wood gasifier stoves that I am now making a FireBox rip-off.
Still reading? Ok, I have had massive airflow issues, difficulty starting them, billowing smoke and they just went out with the slightest breeze or would not burn properly. I have followed some precise instructions, which included a very interesting demonstration, and tried more/bigger holes, which negated the woodgas effect (smoke!). No more for me, I moved onto plain hobo stoves and cat can stoves. Thanks for the information, no I know I'm not alone.
I can't guess why you had problems with your stove.
The first gasifier I made worked ok but I thought it could be improved so I played around with the design.
I'm not really a wood stove guy, they are interesting and fun to make and play with.
I do have a couple of the folding type I carry for survival purposes especially in winter when it would be difficult to build a fire in the snow.
@@planetsideagent Airflow is definitely the problem. Unless you are lucky and make the right number of holes at the right size and place, even then, a slight (but continuous) breeze will want to reverse the air flow and kill the whole process, snuffing the fire with zero effort. I've tried with a really big windblock, different sizes of cans and the result is always the same; if a breeze comes through the top of the stove, bye-bye fire..
Nothing against people who like these stoves, but my experience has been such that I will not depend on something I can barely get going for 5 minutes. I do have to say that a perfectly windless day here does not exist... makes for very interesting bike rides, let me tell you!
@@Flashahol Interesting to find your comment - I'm in the middle of about my 6th experiment and wondering what I'm doing wrong. The weird thing is seeing other people use them and having no problems (or not reporting them, maybe). I think you're right that people tend to increase the air flow (that's what Planetside Agent is doing through these design tweaks), and they basically turn into slightly heavier hobo stoves with secondary air fed up top - burn like crazy, big yellow flames, smoke, soot and tar all over the pot after you've fed them for 15 minutes. People who get it right restrict the air intake and primary (lower) holes, and sometimes have tricks to try to create a low pressure to suck air down the burn chamber and up the sides, and they get that nice bluer flame, a steady burn, very little smoke or tar, and heat for long enough to cook and make a hot drink (from a smallish can, not even a quart pot) with just one load inside, no feeding. Check out Outside Edge Bushcraft's channel, for example - he doesn't cheat with pellets either, just battens a chunk of hardwood down to sticks and bangs it on. Four things might explain his success, as well as the good choice of hole sizes - he chooses wood well, he gives it a really good hot starter fire on top of the main wood, he always uses a wind break, and his design also has a "flame concentrator" above the jets, which helps protect them from gusts as well. But I have to admit it's a dark art to me - literally, the things always go out shortly after the starter fire's done, and they do it even when there's no wind. ua-cam.com/video/oUG0Z1pa0Hk/v-deo.html He's in Britain, same as me, windy and wet. Good build video and a test video with ridiculously long burn time, boiling three kettles of water. I might have to go back to some kind of hobo stove. It's just so frustrating not being able to crack it.
I’m pretty sure Elon Musk has some scrap stainless steel? It might be worth a tweet.
I like 👍 your stoves.
Nice explanation of what seems to be a common mystery... how to get the DIY stoves to draw like the factory ones. It seems that the solo and/or bush buddy stoves have that sealed bottom but still have the bottom side holes the same as the DIY's and I'm wondering if that design gives them the perfect amount or correct designed draw? It doesn't seem to make much sense but perhaps too much air can be a detriment as much as too little.
After watching some videos by Heath Putnam I'm not sure what is the correct answer on stove draw.
I may go back and do some more experimenting, if I do I'll use wood pellets for more consistence testing since wood/twigs can be real variable.
@@planetsideagent These are two very accurate comments:
1.- Entering too much air will cause the gas to escape and be wasted. Remember that its combustion is a bit slow, and much more so if it has so much ventilation at the point of combustion. It requires high temperature to improve its combustion. An air intake regulation device comes in handy.
2.- The pellets are compacted wood, this helps to have more mass of wood inside the stove, and makes the circulation not flames, but air and hot gas.
(an additional contribution) *** Remember that if the top hole of the stove is smaller, the gas is concentrated and combustion is more efficient. If it requires so much ventilation above, it is because below it is not ventilating well. This turns the gasifier into a simple wood burning stove.
Thanks!
GOTTA make me one of these
it was fun. 😊 Although the inexpensive Chinese stainless steal versions perform better.
多層鑵通過的氣流就高速氣流設計法/就成了藍火焰//👍
5:40 - If leave the ring in upper part of pot support - or use this inverted; don't run the risk of knocking over the pot putting firewood.
Good idea, I'll give it a try.
What is hardware cloth on is it carbon cloth?
Hardware cloth is a wire mesh that comes in various sizes, 1/4"- 1/2" etc
Its usual galvanized for outdoor uses like covering openings to keep animals, mice, rats, etc. out.
How do you fit the progresso soup can inside? Do you have to stretch the opening to the quart can or reem it out bigger with a dremmel tool? I got the metal quart and progresso can but noticed it didn't quite fit in .
The progresso can will seat into inside grooves that are the underside of the paint can top that holds the lid..
Place the paint can top down then center the progresso can. i use a 2x4 wood block and tap the progresso can down until it bottoms out/seats in.
its a snug fit but that's why it works so well, it won't come out.
@@planetsideagent ok great thanks so much for your help . Its actually very cool trying to learn new stuff and build things. Kind of like I discovered the casio g shock watches have a trimmer adjustment cap and you can adjust the speed of the watch . I had one a gd-350 that was losing one second every day and over a month of tracking it and adjustments I got to gain one second every 7 days. So I was able to making it 7 times more accurate plus gain a second instead on lose one.
Now there is no paint can with the steel bottom. They are all plastics, and I thought that was your case, but you actually got with the steel base and cut them off. In other videos, I saw they left the bottom alone except to make holes on the sides.
I can still find unused new 1 quart paint cans in my local hardware store.
In order to use the Progresso can as the burn chamber and get it to fit into the underside of the paint can lid you must cut the bottom of the can out.
The ones where they don't cut the bottom out use a different build technique and force and secure the burn can in from the top of the paint can. Both techniques work the cut the bottom out is easier.
Super
👍👍👍🇧🇷
I understand this is a "rocket stove", but how is this a gasifier?
A gasifier stove is a doubled walled stove where air between the walls of the burn chamber is heated by the fire and exits thru holes in the top of the burn chamber and ignites wood gas given off by the wood fire.
Here is a link to a paint can gasifier stove build where you can see the double wall design. Its the video I watched that inspired me to build my versions
ua-cam.com/video/rTPTenSPqs4/v-deo.html
Can you do a video of how to make them?
I haven't made a dedicated how to video but I did make some showing how I modified and some techniques on constructing mine.
Try these:
ua-cam.com/video/Agl557eQXmw/v-deo.html
Original stove design video (a good video):
ua-cam.com/video/rTPTenSPqs4/v-deo.html
My discussion on paint can stove designs:
ua-cam.com/video/Ld3Hkeajouc/v-deo.html
My discussion on how I built the stoves:
ua-cam.com/video/gc3F-RvDK5s/v-deo.html
Smokeless, Smoke-less not smoke-free.
Stainless, Stain-less not Rustproof.
those are fun try making it taller hard to find tall cans though. Tall makes it burn better causes draft. see ua-cam.com/video/pgkCzSJJsB4/v-deo.html dont forget to keep having fun!
Good vid! I make gasification stick stoves too. As new UA-camrs would you like to exchange subs?
Ww
At dollalllbeli a million...
So I guess those political yard signs aren't COMPLETELY useless.
nope, they're pretty sturdy and should find many uses.