I had a guy at my train club that had this exact problem. Our club uses Digitrax. What I did to fix it was to turn off DC mode. The best way to do that I have found is to use JMRI and read the page with the decoder address on it. Once done, change the setting to NMRA only which turns off DC. Export the changed cv's to a text file. Go back in JMRI or any application that will allow programming on the main. Change the cv's listed in the text file to the values listed with programming on the main. Once done the issue seems to disappear. Programming on the main prevents the BLI decoder from getting messed up which requires a factory reset.
A friend suggested that you use L Brackets or Closest Shelf Hangers to mount the Allegheny River Bridge to the wall after painting them the same Blue as the wall. Then build the bridge underneath without nearly as much concern for it carrying all the weight, and especially the stability of the bridge.
What's there now is my super crude, just run trains 'temporary' bridge. This will be replaced, hopefully soon, by a second temporary bridge that has the correct girder design and allow me to place stone supports and rough out scenery. This will include the "island" that one support is on. The final should be a pretty good & detailed replica of the real thing, just gotta settle on a construction method. I'd like to print it as a "kit" And be able to share the files, but we'll see. So, in the end, no supports required as it'll be supported same as the real one. The low benchwork to allow for the river valley is gusseted to the wall every 12", you can walk in it with no perceivable bounce. The long span is a little over 36", and the truss work is 6" deep. Even with brass locos nose to nose on both tracks, we're looking at 15 pounds max, should be nothing for a highly engineered structure, like the one we're copying, in any material I choose.
Took my dad to the Henry Ford Muesum, and he says, "I'll be damned, that's where this engine ended up at." Wish I had a good camera at the time. I'd like build one myself.
Honestly, it's been long enough I don't remember. I don't think you can do it through audio assist. (Maybe?) But mostly I program via JMRI, that let's me save all of an engines settings, and reload them on case of disaster. It also lets me "copy" onto another unit for a good place to start. Handy when you're doing something like several F units. You could also do it via CV's from a throttle.
Any idea how to use an aftermarket decoder WITH the smoke unit? Obviously the new DCC ready BLI models make installing a decoder easy, but I want smoke as well.
I've never done it as I usually take the smoke units out anyway, however, I know most sound decoders do support smoke units, but I don't think (think) anyone supports the puffing action bli or mth have out of the box. If I was going to go down this path on a BLI, I'd still rip out the stock smoke unit and put in a suethe.
I had a guy at my train club that had this exact problem. Our club uses Digitrax. What I did to fix it was to turn off DC mode. The best way to do that I have found is to use JMRI and read the page with the decoder address on it. Once done, change the setting to NMRA only which turns off DC. Export the changed cv's to a text file. Go back in JMRI or any application that will allow programming on the main. Change the cv's listed in the text file to the values listed with programming on the main. Once done the issue seems to disappear. Programming on the main prevents the BLI decoder from getting messed up which requires a factory reset.
@captainbill12 oh, we tried that one. Regardless I'm thrilled with the upgrade. I've since converted 2 more 2-8-0's.
A friend suggested that you use L Brackets or Closest Shelf Hangers to mount the Allegheny River Bridge to the wall after painting them the same Blue as the wall.
Then build the bridge underneath without nearly as much concern for it carrying all the weight, and especially the stability of the bridge.
What's there now is my super crude, just run trains 'temporary' bridge. This will be replaced, hopefully soon, by a second temporary bridge that has the correct girder design and allow me to place stone supports and rough out scenery. This will include the "island" that one support is on. The final should be a pretty good & detailed replica of the real thing, just gotta settle on a construction method. I'd like to print it as a "kit" And be able to share the files, but we'll see. So, in the end, no supports required as it'll be supported same as the real one. The low benchwork to allow for the river valley is gusseted to the wall every 12", you can walk in it with no perceivable bounce.
The long span is a little over 36", and the truss work is 6" deep. Even with brass locos nose to nose on both tracks, we're looking at 15 pounds max, should be nothing for a highly engineered structure, like the one we're copying, in any material I choose.
Took my dad to the Henry Ford Muesum, and he says, "I'll be damned, that's where this engine ended up at." Wish I had a good camera at the time. I'd like build one myself.
A beautiful museum.
How were you able to change the air compressor sound?
Honestly, it's been long enough I don't remember. I don't think you can do it through audio assist. (Maybe?) But mostly I program via JMRI, that let's me save all of an engines settings, and reload them on case of disaster. It also lets me "copy" onto another unit for a good place to start. Handy when you're doing something like several F units. You could also do it via CV's from a throttle.
Any idea how to use an aftermarket decoder WITH the smoke unit? Obviously the new DCC ready BLI models make installing a decoder easy, but I want smoke as well.
I've never done it as I usually take the smoke units out anyway, however, I know most sound decoders do support smoke units, but I don't think (think) anyone supports the puffing action bli or mth have out of the box. If I was going to go down this path on a BLI, I'd still rip out the stock smoke unit and put in a suethe.