When I dropped the oil from a set of GS1000 forks back in the stone age, I measured the leaky side, including water seepage into an empty stubby. The non leaky side was upended into an additional empty stubby and contents compared. Non leaky was just above manufacturer's logo, leaky side well above... so I split the difference erring on the lower measurement. Forks worked a treat for 15 more years. I'm no Casey, Mick or Wayne but the front was solid and felt compliant and 'better' after. You can always 'add' a bit more oil after, harder to 'tip out' too much...
Andy. I love your videos. Besides the accent (I'm South African) you sound just like my granddad when I was younger. Most of my weekends involved sitting in his garage helping him work on his bike. I can't remember what bike it was but he would describe what he was doing to me exactly the way you do. Keep up the great work. If you are ever up in Sydney, The eggplant riding group would be more than happy to have you join in on a ride. Depending on travel restrictions, we have been talking about coming down to Tassie for an end of year ride.
Awesome video Andy. I enjoy your channel, your in exactly the right place between hack job channels, and guys that have shops filled with 100k in tools. You do the job right, and I enjoy your relaxed demeanor.
I have set of forks for my ZZR that need stripping and rebuilding, new oil, seals and respray the outer tubes. I always get daunted by it though and I put it off all the time which is really bad. Nothing worse the procrastinating. Great video Andy very clear and helpful.
Nice set of spinners Andy. As for pads I personally use the hh sintered ones on my fazer stop nicely and not to evasive on the rotors nowadays. Better materials mate. But as ya say it's not a super sports a nice comfey tourer/sports tourer so won't need to stop on a penny.
Hello Mate, yup ST4 forks and wheel.yours are identical to my ST4 front end. I have to say having farted about with an ST3 front end the ST4 is a better set up.
Q: with the rotor bolts removed, is there a solvent that could have removed the residue of the thread locker rather than resorting to re-tapping the threads? Pads - you need to bike to pull you up and you need the feel to achieve that and thats a kinda' personal thing. This can all be done without sacrificing the rotors. Oil? choose whatever works for you. I suspect your bike is gonna' feel kinda' reborn by the time you've done with it.
Hot water is pretty good at getting rid of thread locker. I think the main ingredient seems to be like a sugar type material. I usually use a hot water rinse then chase the threads out just like Andy has shown here. Soaking the bolts in hot water works as well.
Agree 100% on the brake pad material mate i use carbon pads they really haul you up I'd rather through pads at it every 4 to 6 months than replace rotors every year
Don't suppose there is much point in asking the numpty you bought the bike off of .......you could ask him what tone red he used to paint the screw heads in the taillight ......lol.....good job as always Andy
early st3 had adjustable forks. all the ss/st/m adjustable forks from 1991 are the same internally, with the same rebound / compression circuit interaction flaw. the only 50/54mm fork not like that is 1000ss, which is a long damper rod like the sbk forks 916 onwards. the long thin tube inside the cartridge rod is not like anything inside any of the ducati showa forks ever had that i've seen. on the sbk fork that is part of the cap, and what i call the long damper rod. the ss/st/m fork has no rod as such - the adjuster is in the cap at the top of the cartridge rod. the separate long thin tube is what ohlins use, although maybe the mv f4 showa have that too now that i think about it. if it has std springs, which are a bit soft, i'd use the std oil height of 109mm. but if you spring it heavier i drop the oil level so it'll use more of the travel. oil height only impacts the air spring effect in the last 1/3 of the travel. if it's not using all the travel drop the oil level.
@@ANDY5 well, not as far as i can see. this is a 1000ss long damper rod cap, same as the sbk cap. 2.bp.blogspot.com/-FLHRHu2qYeo/TsN6m3wF_FI/AAAAAAAAAJo/AUkxLLtom-M/s320/1000SSie%2Bfork%2Binner%2Ba.JPG the cartridge rod the adjustable st fork had originally has an insert or cap of sorts in the end of the cartridge rod to reduce the hole size for the adjuster needle to work in or close off. the one you have is large enough to fit the long thin tube into.
St4 492cc-132 oil height St3 504cc- 109 oil height Oh mate big difference there so really need to know what you have , no shit Sherlock your thinking I will go do some research!
Nice workmanship and I love the mysteries that are arising..
When I dropped the oil from a set of GS1000 forks back in the stone age, I measured the leaky side, including water seepage into an empty stubby.
The non leaky side was upended into an additional empty stubby and contents compared. Non leaky was just above manufacturer's logo, leaky side well above... so I split the difference erring on the lower measurement. Forks worked a treat for 15 more years. I'm no Casey, Mick or Wayne but the front was solid and felt compliant and 'better' after. You can always 'add' a bit more oil after, harder to 'tip out' too much...
Nice work Andy. I stripped mine down on my project bike cb 900 and no spacer in one leg . 👍❤️🔧🏍
Andy. I love your videos. Besides the accent (I'm South African) you sound just like my granddad when I was younger. Most of my weekends involved sitting in his garage helping him work on his bike. I can't remember what bike it was but he would describe what he was doing to me exactly the way you do.
Keep up the great work. If you are ever up in Sydney, The eggplant riding group would be more than happy to have you join in on a ride.
Depending on travel restrictions, we have been talking about coming down to Tassie for an end of year ride.
Tip for the next time. Put a plastic bag over the big hex on the fork cap to prevent marking it up with the socket. Parts bags work
Awesome video Andy. I enjoy your channel, your in exactly the right place between hack job channels, and guys that have shops filled with 100k in tools. You do the job right, and I enjoy your relaxed demeanor.
Nice work Andy, good to see the care you put into it.........unlike some.
I have set of forks for my ZZR that need stripping and rebuilding, new oil, seals and respray the outer tubes. I always get daunted by it though and I put it off all the time which is really bad. Nothing worse the procrastinating. Great video Andy very clear and helpful.
I bloody knew you would replace the seals. Thanks for the upload Andy. Stay safe my friend.
Nice set of spinners Andy. As for pads I personally use the hh sintered ones on my fazer stop nicely and not to evasive on the rotors nowadays. Better materials mate. But as ya say it's not a super sports a nice comfey tourer/sports tourer so won't need to stop on a penny.
Andy between you, Nellie(Desmo Werx) and Brad, all of you have the game covered. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 😎
Great work Andy. Hope you get your front end sorted. Do it your way & that’s it.🇦🇺✅
I have the S3 Performance rotors on my Monster and love them. Great price too. Good choice.
Look at those snap on spanners!! Professional working with the best, enjoyed that Andy!
Up to you what pads you use, but modern sintered pads are not nearly as harsh on discs as the old ones used to be. Just letting you know.
Talk about a fuckin rabbit hole! Forks, brakes, bearings, what next a whole new bloody bike? LOL
Good job !
Love these workshop videos 👍
Hello Mate, yup ST4 forks and wheel.yours are identical to my ST4 front end. I have to say having farted about with an ST3 front end the ST4 is a better set up.
top job andy.
You're looking and coming across very professional these days Andy 🙂👍
Been taking lessons from del bollocks :0)
Q: with the rotor bolts removed, is there a solvent that could have removed the residue of the thread locker rather than resorting to re-tapping the threads? Pads - you need to bike to pull you up and you need the feel to achieve that and thats a kinda' personal thing. This can all be done without sacrificing the rotors. Oil? choose whatever works for you. I suspect your bike is gonna' feel kinda' reborn by the time you've done with it.
I wasn't "re-tapping" them, just cleaning the threads. I'm not aware of any solvent that would do it. Heat works, but I didn't want to heat them.
Hot water is pretty good at getting rid of thread locker. I think the main ingredient seems to be like a sugar type material. I usually use a hot water rinse then chase the threads out just like Andy has shown here. Soaking the bolts in hot water works as well.
@@grahamessen736 hmm, thanks, very interesting
Agree 100% on the brake pad material mate i use carbon pads they really haul you up I'd rather through pads at it every 4 to 6 months than replace rotors every year
When you say carbon pads do you mean organic pads?
ST4 (916cc) has your same forks, I have owned several - ST4S (996cc) has the other forks you mentioned in your video- (and anti-lock brakes)
Monster S4 (916cc) also has these same forks 2001-2002ish
Great, thanks mate. Do you happen to have the volume and air gap measurements?
@@ANDY5 Shop manual I have says 492cc and or 94mm air gap - I've always been a CC volume kind of guy
Also, in 2001 for most Ducati it was the last year for cable speedos- MOST models 2002 and later have magnetic pickups on the rear disk or somewhere
Don't suppose there is much point in asking the numpty you bought the bike off of .......you could ask him what tone red he used to paint the screw heads in the taillight ......lol.....good job as always Andy
Del Boy comes to mind
My 1999 ST4 has the compression dampening on the bottom of the forks. You probably already know that by now.
early st3 had adjustable forks. all the ss/st/m adjustable forks from 1991 are the same internally, with the same rebound / compression circuit interaction flaw. the only 50/54mm fork not like that is 1000ss, which is a long damper rod like the sbk forks 916 onwards. the long thin tube inside the cartridge rod is not like anything inside any of the ducati showa forks ever had that i've seen. on the sbk fork that is part of the cap, and what i call the long damper rod. the ss/st/m fork has no rod as such - the adjuster is in the cap at the top of the cartridge rod. the separate long thin tube is what ohlins use, although maybe the mv f4 showa have that too now that i think about it. if it has std springs, which are a bit soft, i'd use the std oil height of 109mm. but if you spring it heavier i drop the oil level so it'll use more of the travel. oil height only impacts the air spring effect in the last 1/3 of the travel. if it's not using all the travel drop the oil level.
OMG, thanks Brad. So let me get this clear, these internals are not normal Ducati?
@@ANDY5 well, not as far as i can see. this is a 1000ss long damper rod cap, same as the sbk cap. 2.bp.blogspot.com/-FLHRHu2qYeo/TsN6m3wF_FI/AAAAAAAAAJo/AUkxLLtom-M/s320/1000SSie%2Bfork%2Binner%2Ba.JPG
the cartridge rod the adjustable st fork had originally has an insert or cap of sorts in the end of the cartridge rod to reduce the hole size for the adjuster needle to work in or close off. the one you have is large enough to fit the long thin tube into.
If you think the forks are off of an unknown model of Ducati, how do you know what part # to order ?
12:45 who else thought of Woody’s boot sole.......?
I’m surprised you didn’t use new bolts on the brake disks.
What for? They’re not torque to yield. As long as they are in serviceable condition I don’t see an issue.
@@ANDY5 just something I was always taught when working with brakes.
I would suggest that it would be beat practice, I just don’t feel that it’s necessary. But do what you believe is right for you.
Great job, have to say the original goldline rotors are much prettier.
The ones that were fitted are Metal Gear rotors, not the Brembo goldline.
@@ANDY5 Why not replace them with Metal Gear rotors again? They are Australian made.
@@joonya4427 becau$e rea$on$
@@ANDY5 Fair enough. The Metal Gear discs are a bit more expensive for your bike
Mmmmm new wavy discs.You tart.....All the best.
for forks sake .....
St4 492cc-132 oil height
St3 504cc- 109 oil height
Oh mate big difference there so really need to know what you have , no shit Sherlock your thinking
I will go do some research!
😜👍