That is great. It explains it perfectly. I have inherited a boat from my dad and he had this set up and with push on connectors. Now I know how and where it is supposed to be hooked too and how it works. That is awesome an explanation. Thanks
Excellent instruction again. I didn’t want to buy and expensive Mercury remote starter. Now I can get a remote from Harbor freight or the car parts store for $12 us. Thank you thank you.
I too have the curse of nothing goes right at work. That never seems to happen to me in the pub though everything always works out fine there! Those start buttons are a real timesaver. On an outboard or on a car. Saves steps and the need to have a second person around.
A nice, broken-down explanation of how a basic starter circuit works, including the diagram on the chalkboard. And that's also how you know if you've taken your business to a better workshop - they have colored chalk to differentiate in their diagrams - not just another one-dimensional shop, lol ! You aren't the only one who runs into the "damn-I-can't-finish-up-this-job-because-XYZ-reason" phenomenon. But do you ever find yourself in the category of a "damn-I-took-so-long-because-I-found-seven-other-jobs-needed-doing-to-get-this-one-job-done" situation? Always a grin watching your adventures, Stu. Thanks !
There are definitely jobs that get put on the back burner because more important things come up. All the outboards sitting on stands are a classic example. They are all dead but with some chance of being brought back to life with a bit of work on money. The trouble with leaving these jobs for a long time is you start to forget what was wrong, where you were up to, where that part you took of is or goes etc.
Seen people fill the rim with concrete to add weight, in the us you can get a pre mix bag just add water. Great description of the starter switch bypass, I have always used a spanner for this but this would avoid the sparks
I am still temped to add the concrete. At the moment I like the idea of it being easier to move, but I don't want it being unstable so I'll try it for a week or two and add it if it isn't working out.
If in doubt which little connection is neg..use a multimeter and test for ground, then use other small connector for your positive jump to close the solenoid
Hey Stu,,,, rookie mistake running out of beer,,,,, hope you keep start ya bastard in safe supply,,,,, thanks for all your videos,,,, truly appreciated 👍
Ok so you’ve started the engine from the stern...now how do you turn it off???? Also doesn’t having the ignition in the off position act as a closed kill circuit? Or does that only close when the physical key is inserted?
Do you have any older outboards that don't have a safety kill switch? I've got a 1980 merc 40hp tiller, 2 stroke, 2cyl single carb. No original lanyard kill switch but does have a mercury tilt switch and also remote key start. I'd like to add a lanyard kill switch and make it push buttton start as well. Thanks Stu, keep em' coming!
Gday mate now i see where i have to connect my remote starter i couldnt work out where you got the wire for the black lead from so connect the red to the large pole where power comes from the battery to the solenoid and the black to the small pole at the wire join on the solenoid .
Hi Stu, You have seen my expensive key start remote on my videos but I also have a old thumb button starter too. I got my remote since it has the choke if you push the key in just like my console. you should do a video on a remote tach set up. I'll be working on mine this week except Thursday going lingcod fishing in the sound🛥 Oh and I have heard you can't use a old type dwell/tach meter. it needs to be inductive like a timing light for testing. the old type can be modified though to work with some added electronics. I'll find the video for you to check out. no luck finding it but a tiny tach/hour meter are cheap and are inductive. it can be used just for testing on a 2 stroke engine or mounted permanent in the boat.
Since I have the tach in the console I removed it and will get a spool of 16ga which I'll need anyway down the line and make a tach extension harness for testing. Don't need the light wire just the grd, ign, and send wires. Oh I have the new fuel lines about done just need to get another box of fuel clamps. zip ties are so much easier to install but don't trust them. I'll use them on wiring, water and air hoses. update, got my wire, and bullet connectors to make up my test loom. I shoot a short video after I get it together and tested.
You can get an inductive tacho with hour meter that you can leave inside the engine bay. Water proof, about the size of match box, runs on its own battery. Good enough for setting up a prop and idle /carb adjusting with the cowl off with out doing a full dash tacho install. The hour meter is handy too for service interval times.
Thanks for the reply and surprised someone else answered. Anyway I know about the tiny tach/hour meter but thought since I needed more bullet connectors and wiring for other projects would just do a temp setup with my dash tach and use it for testing. Hour meter would be nice but it's a 1996 and would only consider putting one on if I rebuilt the engine. if my tach doesn't work I can trouble shoot it at the same time. So it serves more than one purpose.
Thought i didn't need to watch this video as i'm already pretty competent in not getting jobs finished................ Glad i did though as i do need to make me a remote starter!
Because technically it is a ground, ie the reference voltage that the +12 is measured against. Boats don't have an earth which is literally the pin you see driven into the ground in house electrics etc.
The water pump definitely looks like the motor has been run without water. And your fault description fits that as well. Sounds like a serious rebuild may be coming up. By the way, how much of a recommendation would Paul give for the Tohatsu? Tohatsu have a decent deal on at the moment for 3cylinder 50hp engines at the moment so I am looking at it. No beer is strike one!
It's strange that it would be run without water though given the boat lives in the water, but it could have been a plastic bag over the intake or something.
Hi, I do appreciate your videos. I've got a 9,9 hp 2stroke yamaha 1994 and I try to add a stARTER system from the beginning with the starter holder (bracket) and the rest of it. Could you help me to refer me some place I could buy those parts.
I know it’s an old video but to anybody who may see.. I am wiring in a push button switch to my outboard. 1) why would you need to fuse the circuit between switch and solenoid? And does it matter if I do not have a fuse ? 2) what amp rating wire do you need between switch and solenoid ?
Suzuki DT90 1998 Hi sorry to interrupt again I've just removed and emptied my oil tank for my oil injection system and replaced with new oil, when replacing I allowed the oil to run through the pipe/tube just before the oil senser and connected trying to not get any air caught ! I have a Manuel but my carburettor seems to not have the same bleed screw as the one shown ?? It seems to have a long 7mm hex plug/screw at the front not the side !! It looked like it had never been touched before so I opted out as didn't want to snap or damage anything ! So I took the plunge and run the motor for 15 mins or so with no fault just a lot of the same lingering blue greyish smoke as before, Am I safe to assume there isn't any serious air locks and I can use it with no problems or can it still cause problems later on ? Please help as I'm taking her out on the weekend and don't want to end up with a blown head ☹️ Cheers Darren P.s will open my own account soon 👍🏼
Hi Darren, it sounds like it is going to be okay. Gravity bleeding it and letting it run though to the point of the pump should do the trick. Having the same blue smoke is always a good sign. You could also add a bit of oil to the fuel for the first run if you are worried.
hey man Ive been watching your videos for quite some time, I'm wondering if you are going to do a video on how to wire a dual battery system with a selector switch. my second question is can I run two batteries in parallel on my my number 1 selection, and a single battery for number 2 which will be my start battery.
Hi Byron, yep, planning to add a second battery to the Green Machine and will definitely film it when I do. To answer your question, yes. Batteries in parallel are nothing more than a bigger battery so having a permanent parallel setup on 1 and a single on 2 is fine. When you set to "both" you'll get three batteries which is all good.
Awesome man, thanks for your reply. your videos have been really helpful, I have a 1976 22 foot Starcraft that I have striped down to just a hull, trailer is all redone, now to flip the boat and start sanding. Ill post some pics some day, I don't have a video cam so that will just have to do. Thanks again man.
How does my 2014 Honda BF 50D kill switch operate... when the clip is pulled out does it make a connection ,or break a connection.. I have two extra kill switches on my boat that I need to remove (I will obviously keep the one in my Honda ignition panel)... so when I remove a switch do I just join the wires together permanently, or seal them separately so they cant come into contact with anything ?
While working on my lower unit I accidentally loosened/removed the bearing retaining screw located near the water intake screen. A small amount of what appeared to be an oil substance flowed out of the screw. My question is whether this is harmful to the engine. Does my whole lower unit/gear case need to be removed and serviced or is it easily fixed by simply re-threading the screw?
Hmmm, I'm not familiar with that outboard, but none of the more modern outboards I've seen have an external screw like that. I would be included to just put it back in and see how it goes, it may just be a drain plug.
Can't say I've done that job on a Force, but with the Yamahas I've done you just take the cover plate off and then undo the bolt that goes through the rubber mounts.
I have a question about my Evinrude 55 HP mid 1970s boat motor, the trim on the motor will bring the motor all the way down but, it brings it about halfway up and locks and won't go any farther I have replaced the battery and tried the manual lift and it still does not work please let me know what the problem is. thank you.
You are truly one of the best on UA-cam. Thank you for what you do.
Thanks mate. :)
The starter lesson was such a good recap for me. Thks !! ✌🏼
Glad to hear it!
That is great. It explains it perfectly. I have inherited a boat from my dad and he had this set up and with push on connectors. Now I know how and where it is supposed to be hooked too and how it works. That is awesome an explanation. Thanks
Would also like to see more from the "Dangar Rigs" collection. That leg holder is pretty clever.
Thanks mate, I'm going to do a bit of a run through the workshop one day.
Go for it
Neat little tip, sure beats bridging the solenoid with a pair of pliers!
Certainly gives you a lot less sparks!
Your doing it all wrong.Forget the pliers,use a screwdriver like i do.lol.
@@Hahehhwgajshah72726.. lock and load buddy! :D
You are a blessing to me for knowledge my Friend... Thank you again.
Glad to be able to help you mate. :)
Excellent instruction again. I didn’t want to buy and expensive Mercury remote starter. Now I can get a remote from Harbor freight or the car parts store for $12 us. Thank you thank you.
I too have the curse of nothing goes right at work. That never seems to happen to me in the pub though everything always works out fine there! Those start buttons are a real timesaver. On an outboard or on a car. Saves steps and the need to have a second person around.
LOL, we should all work from the pub from now on!
A nice, broken-down explanation of how a basic starter circuit works, including the diagram on the chalkboard. And that's also how you know if you've taken your business to a better workshop - they have colored chalk to differentiate in their diagrams - not just another one-dimensional shop, lol ! You aren't the only one who runs into the "damn-I-can't-finish-up-this-job-because-XYZ-reason" phenomenon. But do you ever find yourself in the category of a "damn-I-took-so-long-because-I-found-seven-other-jobs-needed-doing-to-get-this-one-job-done" situation? Always a grin watching your adventures, Stu. Thanks !
I am guilty of that one.
There are definitely jobs that get put on the back burner because more important things come up. All the outboards sitting on stands are a classic example. They are all dead but with some chance of being brought back to life with a bit of work on money. The trouble with leaving these jobs for a long time is you start to forget what was wrong, where you were up to, where that part you took of is or goes etc.
I used to be a flotilla marine engineer for sunsail and sunworld in Greece ...a remote starter was essential 😊👍
Sounds like a very nice job indeed! I went sailing in Greece with some friends for a few weeks and loved every minute of it.
Seen people fill the rim with concrete to add weight, in the us you can get a pre mix bag just add water. Great description of the starter switch bypass, I have always used a spanner for this but this would avoid the sparks
I am still temped to add the concrete. At the moment I like the idea of it being easier to move, but I don't want it being unstable so I'll try it for a week or two and add it if it isn't working out.
vxnova1 @dangarstu what about adding a flat base and casters and then filling the square above with the concrete for weight? enough stability?
Ian, beat me to that suggestion, fill the rim with concrete and weld on some wheels so you can move the whole shebang around easily.
As usual really professional videos and safe advice. Thank you Stu.
If in doubt which little connection is neg..use a multimeter and test for ground, then use other small connector for your positive jump to close the solenoid
Hey Stu,,,, rookie mistake running out of beer,,,,, hope you keep start ya bastard in safe supply,,,,, thanks for all your videos,,,, truly appreciated 👍
Very true! 😝
My project is going exactly like this. LOL Monday everyday. LOL
Glad I'm not the only one! ;)
Great video as usual Stu! Things always go wrong for me too!
Thanks Will, it's hard to avoid it!
Built myself one, thanks for the help
You're welcome Ben.
Great calendar!
It was a freebie from the Wurth rep. :)
Looking forward to the Tohatsu painting. Trying to work up the courage to spray my Merc, but afraid to get paint where paint doesn't go...
Probably have that one up week after next.
screwdriver is cheaper but this is one of the best explanations of how a remote starter works
I prefer pliers. ;)
Ok so you’ve started the engine from the stern...now how do you turn it off???? Also doesn’t having the ignition in the off position act as a closed kill circuit? Or does that only close when the physical key is inserted?
I have the same question, how can you shut the engine off with a push switch?
Brilliant grinder stand!
Thanks mate!
Do you have any older outboards that don't have a safety kill switch? I've got a 1980 merc 40hp tiller, 2 stroke, 2cyl single carb. No original lanyard kill switch but does have a mercury tilt switch and also remote key start. I'd like to add a lanyard kill switch and make it push buttton start as well. Thanks Stu, keep em' coming!
Unfortunately not. Most of the outboard around here don't last that long as they get used pretty hard every day.
Gday mate now i see where i have to connect my remote starter i couldnt work out where you got the wire for the black lead from so connect the red to the large pole where power comes from the battery to the solenoid and the black to the small pole at the wire join on the solenoid .
Dang i need a fuel gauge also, cant wait for that one lol
Won't be too long. :)
Hi Stu, You have seen my expensive key start remote on my videos but I also have a old thumb button starter too. I got my remote since it has the choke if you push the key in just like my console. you should do a video on a remote tach set up. I'll be working on mine this week except Thursday going lingcod fishing in the sound🛥
Oh and I have heard you can't use a old type dwell/tach meter. it needs to be inductive like a timing light for testing. the old type can be modified though to work with some added electronics. I'll find the video for you to check out. no luck finding it but a tiny tach/hour meter are cheap and are inductive. it can be used just for testing on a 2 stroke engine or mounted permanent in the boat.
A portable taco would be a good video to do. Looking forward to seeing yours.
taco, yum making me hungry. haha
Since I have the tach in the console I removed it and will get a spool of 16ga which I'll need anyway down the line and make a tach extension harness for testing. Don't need the light wire just the grd, ign, and send wires. Oh I have the new fuel lines about done just need to get another box of fuel clamps. zip ties are so much easier to install but don't trust them. I'll use them on wiring, water and air hoses. update, got my wire, and bullet connectors to make up my test loom. I shoot a short video after I get it together and tested.
You can get an inductive tacho with hour meter that you can leave inside the engine bay. Water proof, about the size of match box, runs on its own battery. Good enough for setting up a prop and idle /carb adjusting with the cowl off with out doing a full dash tacho install. The hour meter is handy too for service interval times.
Thanks for the reply and surprised someone else answered. Anyway I know about the tiny tach/hour meter but thought since I needed more bullet connectors and wiring for other projects would just do a temp setup with my dash tach and use it for testing. Hour meter would be nice but it's a 1996 and would only consider putting one on if I rebuilt the engine. if my tach doesn't work I can trouble shoot it at the same time. So it serves more than one purpose.
Very nicely done as usual.... ;)
Thanks Keon!
You need a beer to fix an outboard, but tequila fixes everything?
..........or breaks it. haha
It was such a score when I found that! ;)
If you're looking for an easy project you could replace the battery in the clock over your workbench. I could almost see it at the end of the video
This afternoon. ;)
better stock up on the beer mate great video
Excellent advice. :)
Good informative video! Thanks!
Thought i didn't need to watch this video as i'm already pretty competent in not getting jobs finished................
Glad i did though as i do need to make me a remote starter!
Ha! I think we're all experts at that. ;) The remote starters are really handy though.
can you use a screw driver to short the two larger terminals?
Best intro ever 😂
legend. just what I was after :) Love ya work
Welcome. :)
When did you start saying, "ground" instead of "earth"? Why? Another great video. Thanks!
Because technically it is a ground, ie the reference voltage that the +12 is measured against. Boats don't have an earth which is literally the pin you see driven into the ground in house electrics etc.
The water pump definitely looks like the motor has been run without water. And your fault description fits that as well. Sounds like a serious rebuild may be coming up.
By the way, how much of a recommendation would Paul give for the Tohatsu? Tohatsu have a decent deal on at the moment for 3cylinder 50hp engines at the moment so I am looking at it.
No beer is strike one!
It's strange that it would be run without water though given the boat lives in the water, but it could have been a plastic bag over the intake or something.
Hi, I do appreciate your videos. I've got a 9,9 hp 2stroke yamaha 1994 and I try to add a stARTER system from the beginning with the starter holder (bracket) and the rest of it. Could you help me to refer me some place I could buy those parts.
DO you have a video or would consider making one for battery drain/starter or volt reg problems?
Hey Dennis, yes, I've been thinking about doing one soon on battery drain. I recently did one on installing a regulator though.
Thanks- I'll search your videos- very useful stuff- great job!
need to buy a T shirt but dont know how the sizing works, I am 50" chest so which one is best size... Regards.. Ian
Hi Ian, this sizing chart should help you out. www.americanapparel.net/sizing/default.asp?chart=mu.shirts
I know it’s an old video but to anybody who may see..
I am wiring in a push button switch to my outboard.
1) why would you need to fuse the circuit between switch and solenoid? And does it matter if I do not have a fuse ?
2) what amp rating wire do you need between switch and solenoid ?
very helpful thank you
You're welcome. :)
Stu, does the shift gear have to be in neutral, if the key is in the off position?
No, but you won't be able to start it again until it is so it is probably best to leave it in neutral if you can.
Dangar Marine u r awesome!
Is it now Stu's law instead of Murphy's.
It sure feels like that some days!
Can you make a video were you just drive the boat round the island
Hi Kevin, sure, that would make a fun mid-week video.
I’d still like to see the fuel gauge video
Suzuki DT90 1998
Hi sorry to interrupt again
I've just removed and emptied my oil tank for my oil injection system and replaced with new oil, when replacing I allowed the oil to run through the pipe/tube just before the oil senser and connected trying to not get any air caught ! I have a Manuel but my carburettor seems to not have the same bleed screw as the one shown ?? It seems to have a long 7mm hex plug/screw at the front not the side !!
It looked like it had never been touched before so I opted out as didn't want to snap or damage anything !
So I took the plunge and run the motor for 15 mins or so with no fault just a lot of the same lingering blue greyish smoke as before, Am I safe to assume there isn't any serious air locks and I can use it with no problems or can it still cause problems later on ?
Please help as I'm taking her out on the weekend and don't want to end up with a blown head ☹️
Cheers Darren
P.s will open my own account soon 👍🏼
Hi Darren, it sounds like it is going to be okay. Gravity bleeding it and letting it run though to the point of the pump should do the trick. Having the same blue smoke is always a good sign. You could also add a bit of oil to the fuel for the first run if you are worried.
Thanks stu much appreciated great help as always
hey man Ive been watching your videos for quite some time, I'm wondering if you are going to do a video on how to wire a dual battery system with a selector switch. my second question is can I run two batteries in parallel on my my number 1 selection, and a single battery for number 2 which will be my start battery.
Hi Byron, yep, planning to add a second battery to the Green Machine and will definitely film it when I do. To answer your question, yes. Batteries in parallel are nothing more than a bigger battery so having a permanent parallel setup on 1 and a single on 2 is fine. When you set to "both" you'll get three batteries which is all good.
Awesome man, thanks for your reply. your videos have been really helpful, I have a 1976 22 foot Starcraft that I have striped down to just a hull, trailer is all redone, now to flip the boat and start sanding. Ill post some pics some day, I don't have a video cam so that will just have to do. Thanks again man.
just the way it goes somtimes mate :)
Sure does!
Thanks for sharing
How does my 2014 Honda BF 50D kill switch operate... when the clip is pulled out does it make a connection ,or break a connection.. I have two extra kill switches on my boat that I need to remove (I will obviously keep the one in my Honda ignition panel)... so when I remove a switch do I just join the wires together permanently, or seal them separately so they cant come into contact with anything ?
Kill switches work by making a connection to stop the motor so you want to join the wires permanently.
So do I just cut off the switch, join the two wires together and the motor will still start ??
Do you think electric start on my Yamaha 25 2 stroke 2008 is possible?
Yes.
is it normal to be able to push on the prop and it goes inward slightly?
Yes, often outboards have a little bit of play like that.
ok thanks
While
working on my lower unit I accidentally loosened/removed the bearing
retaining screw located near the water intake screen. A small amount of
what appeared to be an oil substance flowed out of the screw. My
question is whether this is harmful to the engine. Does my whole lower
unit/gear case need to be removed and serviced or is it easily fixed by
simply re-threading the screw?
Are you sure it is a bearing retaining screw? What model and year outboard is it?
no i am not sure, it is a Evinrude 1970 ish 40 hp
Hmmm, I'm not familiar with that outboard, but none of the more modern outboards I've seen have an external screw like that. I would be included to just put it back in and see how it goes, it may just be a drain plug.
Dangar Marine it worked out fine, it was a bit hard to put back in but i jiggled the outboard a little and it went back in. :)
should explain that some ignition coils won't fire if you bypass keyswitch.
Yes, I probably should have mentioned that the ignition also needs to be switched on if you want it to spark.
Brent here, Can anyone tell me how to change a lower shock mount on a 1992...150 Forse outboard
Can't say I've done that job on a Force, but with the Yamahas I've done you just take the cover plate off and then undo the bolt that goes through the rubber mounts.
I have a question about my Evinrude 55 HP mid 1970s boat motor, the trim on the motor will bring the motor all the way down but, it brings it about halfway up and locks and won't go any farther I have replaced the battery and tried the manual lift and it still does not work please let me know what the problem is. thank you.
If you release the bypass can you lift it all the way up?
no I tried the manual release screw and it wouldn't budge
where would the bypass be?
Next I would be disconnecting the top pin of the outboard from the trim tilt and seeing if it is a limit in the tilt unit or the outboard itself.
ok thank you.
I have a parsun 90hp no crank no what to check
Make sure it is in neutral and check the main fuse. Here is a video on it ua-cam.com/video/e1h-blqDm4U/v-deo.html
any luck on finding a bravo 1 cone clutch and cup???
Do these guys carry the part you need? www.marineengine.com/parts/mercruiser-sterndrive-parts/43l-carb-alphabravo
much appreciated i will pass this info on..
Hey I like your calender in the back @5:40
03:28 squint goggles lol
Safety first!