This series is great! I am setting up a similar rear suspension on a K5 using ORD custom 64” springs and a tension shackle right now. Curious if you have plans to add some type of traction or anti-wrap bar or bars? Or if the sway bar helps with that or not?
The swaybar doesn't have any leverage on the axle to be able to act against wrap, and so far, I haven't had a challenge wrapping the axle, but I haven't wheeled it a whole bunch. We'll see how that progresses, but in my mind I'm prepared to do a 2-link.
10-4, I was thinking the the sway bar did nothing as well, but I don’t know what I don’t know. Thanks for the reply! The content you make and share is super motivating and extremely helpful for the DIY knuckle smasher! Assuming your lean towards 2 bars is related to space constraints in the center on you’re current set up? As apposed to a single radius arm style. I am on the fence as to which will constrain articulation the least.
@@claytaylor3137 I strongly favor spreading the twisting load across both axle tubes rather than just one that comes from the standard radius arm. My knuckle smasher brain just prefers to have wrapping forces managed resisted at the place where they occur rather than transferring them through the differential to one tube. Correctly placed, a 2 link follows the leaf spring as it flattens.
That first tip on not jumping into too much is a lesson I’ve learned the HARD way with my Wagoneer build. Between a 5.7 Hemi + 8spd swap, Ford 1-ton axle swap, and widetrack fender conversion all at once. Then I decided to work on interior AND reworking EVERYTHING. it’s biting off too much at once.
What you didn’t mention with a linked rear is that you generally run into gas tank problems. Your factory gas tank is almost always in the way of the cross member and link.
Your discussion has been very helpful for setting up my 56 travel-all….can a list be generated of the rear improvements…..using all Chevy burb Parts…..from discs to lockers…..custom leaf packs or modified Chevy with drop links….
Very cool! Do you have any videos discussing traction bars more in depth? Heavily considering them for my cummins swap for the same reasons you mentioned about wanting leaves - I want to still be able to camp in my rig! 👍
I don’t get into torque arms, because I’m not a torque arm guy. I used longer leaf perches - which helps a lot - and spent a lot of time getting the rate dialed on a long set of leaf packs. Shorty 52s or 56s wouldn’t have had the same performance as long boy 64s.
Man my 91’ suburban that I bought is just patiently waiting for the bumpers and suspension. I won’t be doing 4 link but it’ll still be a damn good leaf setup and it’ll be a real good upgrade that I can get done over a weekend. I’m just going to get a 14bolt then upgrade the 10bolt to a 8 lug with all the upgrades and 2wd gear box. Slap some lockers in them and call it a day. Really want to do the doubler setup . Then the bumpers you have. My first real fab is going to be away bars and rock sliders.
My 84' Burb originally was a 2wd C2500. I converted using CUCV axles. Front is standard ORD leaf setup. Rear I did a shackle flip and extended the front spring hanger down to match the lift height of the front. So it has fairly long and flat springs. It floats like a mother. Flex like crazy and soft but the whole truck wobbles at speed. I'm guessing because of the rear setup. My other CUCV is identical but with stiffer springs out back and it doesn't do this at all. No sway bars on either rig. Do you think going to a harder damper would be worth it or just skip to a sway bar? I'm guessing shocks are half the price or the sway bar. It's not unbearable but more annoying on long trips. A slight improvement would be worth it.
Shocks, springs, and swaybars all work in concert. If you're looking to max out ride quality and travel, get a set of custom leaf packs, very nice shocks, and then look into a swaybar.
On your website I’m putting my custom order together and was questioning; on a 87 V10 predominately daily driver, what are the advantages of both long leaf vs. short leaf spring set up and what you’d recommend? Thank you
Long leaf springs generally have less axle movement for each inch of travel compared to shorter versions. You can use more, lighter leaves with a net shallower arch. There's a reason the OEMs all went to longer packs, and if you don't mind fabricating the mounts, they're worth the effort, especially for the rear.
In using the Boomerang Shackle from ORD With a 6" Superlift set Leaf Springs Do you need to add a leaf or (not my first choice) Lift Block or Leveling wedge To keep (my Blazer) from looking like it has squat in the rear. I used the stock spring mounts in the rear I bought my Boomerang Shackles from ORD because of your videos, Perfect Quality and I love them. I am looking for an opinions or tech fab options for my rear squat. Thank You for any thoughts
So, I didn't use a wedge on this setup since I welded on new spring perches. I always broke center pins with shims, so I can't easily recommend them if you have the ability to just install new perches. A 1 in add a leaf might get you the height adjustment you're looking for.
@@WillometMotorFab Thank You for always replying. I agree, I looked on off road designs website. They have a spring perch that I think will solve the problem.
I'm looking to getting custom leafs on my k10. I'm also swapping 1 ton axles. How can I get the longer leafs in the rear? It's got the 52inch sizing currently.
This series is great! I am setting up a similar rear suspension on a K5 using ORD custom 64” springs and a tension shackle right now. Curious if you have plans to add some type of traction or anti-wrap bar or bars? Or if the sway bar helps with that or not?
The swaybar doesn't have any leverage on the axle to be able to act against wrap, and so far, I haven't had a challenge wrapping the axle, but I haven't wheeled it a whole bunch. We'll see how that progresses, but in my mind I'm prepared to do a 2-link.
10-4, I was thinking the the sway bar did nothing as well, but I don’t know what I don’t know. Thanks for the reply! The content you make and share is super motivating and extremely helpful for the DIY knuckle smasher! Assuming your lean towards 2 bars is related to space constraints in the center on you’re current set up? As apposed to a single radius arm style. I am on the fence as to which will constrain articulation the least.
@@claytaylor3137 I strongly favor spreading the twisting load across both axle tubes rather than just one that comes from the standard radius arm. My knuckle smasher brain just prefers to have wrapping forces managed resisted at the place where they occur rather than transferring them through the differential to one tube. Correctly placed, a 2 link follows the leaf spring as it flattens.
Much appreciated!!
That was a fun series to watch. I could listen to you guys in a podcast for hours.
Again, I so appreciate your consistent support, and am glad you enjoyed this series. It was a lot of fun to make it.
That first tip on not jumping into too much is a lesson I’ve learned the HARD way with my Wagoneer build. Between a 5.7 Hemi + 8spd swap, Ford 1-ton axle swap, and widetrack fender conversion all at once. Then I decided to work on interior AND reworking EVERYTHING. it’s biting off too much at once.
love how you say to break up the projects. ive realized this recently. good advice.
Glad you identified with that one. Make time an ally; not your enemy!
I will be buying my custom leafs soon! Thanks for the video it was enjoyable.
Nice! You’re really going to dig it.
What a great series! Thanks for the effort WMF and ORD....
👍 Work worth doing.
What you didn’t mention with a linked rear is that you generally run into gas tank problems. Your factory gas tank is almost always in the way of the cross member and link.
No doubt that trade offs are everywhere. Some are worse than others for sure.
Your discussion has been very helpful for setting up my 56 travel-all….can a list be generated of the rear improvements…..using all Chevy burb Parts…..from discs to lockers…..custom leaf packs or modified Chevy with drop links….
Glad this has been helpful to you. Most of this stuff came from Offroad Design, and they have my build list available on the site. Maybe that helps?
Very cool! Do you have any videos discussing traction bars more in depth? Heavily considering them for my cummins swap for the same reasons you mentioned about wanting leaves - I want to still be able to camp in my rig! 👍
I don’t get into torque arms, because I’m not a torque arm guy. I used longer leaf perches - which helps a lot - and spent a lot of time getting the rate dialed on a long set of leaf packs. Shorty 52s or 56s wouldn’t have had the same performance as long boy 64s.
Man my 91’ suburban that I bought is just patiently waiting for the bumpers and suspension. I won’t be doing 4 link but it’ll still be a damn good leaf setup and it’ll be a real good upgrade that I can get done over a weekend. I’m just going to get a 14bolt then upgrade the 10bolt to a 8 lug with all the upgrades and 2wd gear box. Slap some lockers in them and call it a day. Really want to do the doubler setup . Then the bumpers you have. My first real fab is going to be away bars and rock sliders.
Custom leaf packs get it done. I ran them for years, happily. Go do it!
@@WillometMotorFab do you have a video of your rear bumper/skid plate build?
@@kylewest100 the bumper is from ORD, and the skid is just a worked over factory design. Scroll to my IG for more views on those parts.
My 84' Burb originally was a 2wd C2500. I converted using CUCV axles. Front is standard ORD leaf setup. Rear I did a shackle flip and extended the front spring hanger down to match the lift height of the front. So it has fairly long and flat springs.
It floats like a mother. Flex like crazy and soft but the whole truck wobbles at speed. I'm guessing because of the rear setup. My other CUCV is identical but with stiffer springs out back and it doesn't do this at all. No sway bars on either rig.
Do you think going to a harder damper would be worth it or just skip to a sway bar? I'm guessing shocks are half the price or the sway bar. It's not unbearable but more annoying on long trips. A slight improvement would be worth it.
Shocks, springs, and swaybars all work in concert. If you're looking to max out ride quality and travel, get a set of custom leaf packs, very nice shocks, and then look into a swaybar.
On your website I’m putting my custom order together and was questioning; on a 87 V10 predominately daily driver, what are the advantages of both long leaf vs. short leaf spring set up and what you’d recommend? Thank you
Long leaf springs generally have less axle movement for each inch of travel compared to shorter versions. You can use more, lighter leaves with a net shallower arch. There's a reason the OEMs all went to longer packs, and if you don't mind fabricating the mounts, they're worth the effort, especially for the rear.
@@WillometMotorFab thank you for the details.
In using the Boomerang Shackle from ORD
With a 6" Superlift set Leaf Springs
Do you need to add a leaf or (not my first choice) Lift Block or Leveling wedge
To keep (my Blazer) from looking like it has squat in the rear.
I used the stock spring mounts in the rear
I bought my Boomerang Shackles from ORD because of your videos, Perfect Quality and I love them.
I am looking for an opinions or tech fab options for my rear squat.
Thank You for any thoughts
So, I didn't use a wedge on this setup since I welded on new spring perches. I always broke center pins with shims, so I can't easily recommend them if you have the ability to just install new perches. A 1 in add a leaf might get you the height adjustment you're looking for.
@@WillometMotorFab Thank You for always replying.
I agree, I looked on off road designs website. They have a spring perch that I think will solve the problem.
When are we going to see some trail footage of this thing in action?
Hang tight.
I'm looking to getting custom leafs on my k10. I'm also swapping 1 ton axles. How can I get the longer leafs in the rear? It's got the 52inch sizing currently.
Check the other rear suspension video for a more details breakdown: ua-cam.com/video/YfVEpW1oBuQ/v-deo.html
Looking for advice:
I want to quit work and sit around watch Willomet videos all day. Should I tell my wife the truth or tell her i'm cheating on her?
Day jobs can be a drag, but any way you get make more time to build sound like a winner to me.