What is so sad is guys like Tony (with all that knowledge) are fewer and fewer as time goes by. He has all those years of knowledge and experience, and it will all be lost if videos like this are not being made. It's great that he is making these you tube videos, to help the younger generations.!!!
Thankfully he’s passing down all this priceless information for young (or older) Mopar-heads. I’m beyond thankful for this data. I’m filling up pages upon pages of my notebook with this amazing information.
Certain people gifted with the talent of explaining complicated theory in a way that's understandable and he has a great time doing it. He's fun to watch.
Guys like Tony are and always have been few. Tony is in a another realm of knowledge/obsession with the small block Chrysler. I'm not a ford guy and somewhat a chevy guy, but I love the Chrysler motors. Ya, thats right, I love the underdog that beats the giants with his smarts. Rather than his wallet. I can't believe what he gets out of the "lowly" 318. I just wish I would have known this stuff back in the 70s. I went for a ride in a guys 70 challender with a 318 that just screamed. He said it was some sort of a "hemi" style engine. I think it was probably a built 318 poly after watching Tonys vids. Thanks Tony, you are the best!
Perfect timing for this! I'm putting the family 67 Fury station wagon back together with an 88 fifth avenue 318 and a 73 PW 360 as donors. This video answered all my questions. Thanks uncle T.
In 1991, I think, mopar performance released their new performance heads, 308's. I replaced the J heads that were bowl ported and port matched with 2.02 intake valves in my 360, mainly because of the ability to use unleaded gas. Was kind of disappointed with the smallish ports, but despite of that bolted them on with new valves etc. The engine felt much crisper with the 308's, on a butt dyno. Then I took it to the strip..., and gained over 6 mph over the previous best, and cut 0.8 seconds off from the ET. Similar feelings about the 302 heads, have built a few engines using them, homeported and with 1.88" intake valves. A 318 with an ancient Offenhauser intake made 335 hp in dyno at 5500. And was still climbing. A 273 commando with factory intake, 320 hp at 6000. So, I wouldn't count them out. Race heads they are not, but neither are any of the factory castings. For moderate performance they work great. The exhaust ports of the 302 heads are just the same as in the previous 318 heads. Just ported one set a few weeks ago, with 1.78/1.50 valves. Flow at 0.4" was 198/131, and at 0.5" the exhaust climbed to 139. Enough for over 400 hp at only 0.4" lift.
Tony on both intake and exhaust I have ported 308s with a 2.02 and they kill just about any other small block head on the flow bench for raw flow, the reshape of the ports had a pretty significant effect, also magnum heads suffer the same malady of pushrod constricting port even have the same pushrod size orifice, and are generally considered the best factory head for raw power potential. Now the 302's will not flow as much, but they can move well into 240-250cfm at as low as .300 lift and hold it past .500 is easy to build a 400hp 318 with a street cam them. Love the show, keep the info rolling. SIDE NOTE: Anyone looking to do later head's if your that worried about the constriction, just press in tubes and grind till you find lol.
@@npp3559just like the early ones you can grind into it, you just can't open the restriction as much, the easy way to measure how much metal is left is to make an e-tool, or the all out method is grind right thru it and press a new thin-wall tube into the pushrod hole with some retaining compound, use a spray metal welder and reseal the hole, braze it, I've even seen people epoxy the entire pushrod hole shut then machine new pushrod slots.
I was hoping you would do this.after the last video. Ford guy here but now have a 283 for something different. I also intend to acquire a mopar. You've done a hand full of videos that have been very helpful. Thanks man
Love the wait, there's more Uncle Tony. My 340J headed motor had a water in oil issue from the beginning when it was hotrodded, not to mention the overheating. Victor Junior manifold was eventually found to have 9 thousandths of an inch mismatch from top of face to bottom. Not much but enough to leak coolant. The machine shop also narrowed the manifold to allow port alignment, lowering it in the valley by nearly 70 thousandths of an inch. Hoping we have cured both the coolant issue and found the horsepower shortfall.
Thanks for the great info. I'm rebuilding a tired 1971 318-2V and found a set of 714 (302 style) heads for it; I wanted newer heads with hardened valve seats. It is staying a two barrel stocker so I didn't feel the need to get larger valves or do much port work beyond the mildest cleanup. Hopefully this setup will make a long lasting and enjoyable driver.
Well I have to disagree , , I took a 340 with ported X heads to the dyno on a thursday , swapped the heads over the weekend to ported 308 heads & returned to the dyno on tuesday , the car made 41 extra RWHP using the 308 heads on the same dyno at the same temperature & running it up to 6000+ RPM ! it is well known raising the exhaust floor seriously helps HP , careful opening of the pushrod wall in the intake helped also but keep in mind it creates a venturi there speeding the intake flow behind the valve , now I do some very trick porting around the guides & behind the seats as well . I will be more than happy to trade any set of the X or J heads for 308 castings , the 308s are seriously the Best production LA casting . Important to note the early 273 heads used a different intake bolt angle as well .
Yeah they raised the intake ports in the 308 to makeup for the bigger pushrod holes. The 308 are supposed to be the best flowing stock heads. After watching this video I have to question anything he says
Don't forget to mention there is also a U casting! And how about putting a little love on the 273 headed self everybody says they're junk but they're not just the 273 8920 casting!! Thanks for your time!! Love the videos keep up the good work!
I've been running a set of 273 heads with a 1.88 intake valve on a couple of my 360s for almost 20 years. In my 68 Dart, using a stock bottom end 360 with a solid lifter 292 cam, it was good for a high 12 second E.T. at 105 MPH. Very good power, and good throttle response. That same car got 17 MPG while being that fast. But now I don't bother with older LA heads, I just port up the Magnums and convert everything over to that. Going to be interesting to see Uncle Tony's 273 Magnum build, when I mocked up that combination, the bigger valves were too close to the 3.625 bore that I had to notch the block to get a comfortable amount of clearance, but I never finished building that motor, put together a 318 instead.
Love your knowledge Tony and as I have almost none it is all a great thing. I'M still on the fence about the Magnum headed LA. In my ignorance I had a machine shop completely rebuilt a set of J 1.88 1.60 heads for my 318 not knowing it would make my car slower which it did. We would love to see about the Magnums and how well, or not they work.
I had the best 318 V-8 in my 1974 DODGE Coronet Custom.That engine was smooth as butter and totally police car fast. I had a single exhaust, but I always wanted headers and dual glass packs.
I’m about to tear the top end down on my 72 318 dart swinger, heads need valve seals, and I’m also gonna get the edlebrock performer kit for it 👍 my first engine tear down
Austin, I am about to to the same thing. Though, I've recently been told that the new intake manifolds have ports too large for the 318 heads. Is this true? Have you heard any comments on this? I too was thinking of going with the Edelbrock Performance set up.
Thank you Tony: I have been wondering why my 1980 d150 360 heads wouldn't work on a 1988 roller 360 motor home block I installed in the d150 with a ring ,valve ,timing chain and bearing job .The pushrods were draggin the holes. I sold them and did a valve job on the 88 heads and motored on just fine. I was never quite sure of the why but you explained it clearly.
Learned some new stuff. I dealt with mostly 68-74 340/360 HP engines. I ran a roller cam in my 71 Duster 340 Super Stock. The Ramchargers did my machine work and ran 1/2" copper tubing thru the lifter valley on the right side I believe. Then a long drill was used to supply the oil back to the crank. Basically you blocked off all oil to the lifter bores and redirected to the main and rod bearings. You could only run solid or roller lifters with that block mod. My bearings would look brand new after a whole season of racing. I think I used Crane billit rollers and quite expensive for 1974! The copper tubing was nothing more than copper water pipe you buy at a hardware store! The Ramchargers knew all the tricks back then. Some guys would bush each lifter bore which created more problems if not machined properly. I know, another machine shop ruined my first block doing that.
Sounds similiar to the oiling issue with AMC Gen2 and 3 V-8s. The oil galley on the right side of the block feeds the lifters, cam and crank bearings. The back two crank and cam bearings can suffer from low oil pressure at sustained high RPM. There are two ways around this problem (three if you go dry sump). Drill new oil supply lines to feed from the left side oil galley. More commonly is to drill and tap for two 1/8th or 1/4 NPT holes. One at the front, the other towards the rear. Plus the porting on the lube system should be polished and gasket matched. Oldsmob455 has a video series on it www.google.com/search?q=amc+oil+pump+rebuild&oq=amc+oil+pump+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i457j0l3.6161j0j9&client=tablet-android-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#
@@mpetersen6 I remember the lines below the manifold. The setup I used solved three problems. Added lube for the bearings, no normal leakage around the lifter bores and some lifter when used with a high lift cam would expose the machined slot in the lifter body made for the roller bearing. I used 2 lifter types. The Cam Dynamics sucked and the links were very fragile. A few broke and wiped out my roller cam. The Cranes were built out of solid stock and were bullet proof! We had a large contingent of Mopar racers in Ohio especially around Cleveland/Akron. After the factory guys got theirs we were next. Rod Shop out of Columbus had great Mopars too! Actually we had great cars from all mfgs racing here. Those were fun times. I held the National Record with my cars 3 times.
@@craigcontofalsky4387 even with solid roller lifters I think I would still prefer to have an oil supply to the lifters rather than just rely on drain back. Just doesn't need to be as much as you need for hydraulic lifters. To be honest I think once the camless engines begin to hit the street it won't be long before people start getting their hands on the components.
@@mpetersen6 you might be right about the oil in the lifter bores but it was a drag racing engine only. Probably not a good idea for a street engine. Those Crane lifters were $600 back in 1974 so it wouldn't be economically sound for a street car. My Brother bought his used 70 Dart Swinger 340 for $1,500! My 9" J converter was $600 too!! Stictly race only stuff. That was the early days of roller cams in LA Chrysler engines. Now every dam engine made has them!
When I was younger I bought a 68 318 complete motor. The local machine shop bored it .040 over, and rebuilt the short block. My dad Rebuilt the heads, we installed an RV grind cam from a local shop, headers, Edelbrock torquer intake, holley 600 CFM carb. I put it in a short bed 81 dodge truck with a manual 4 speed. That little mill had so much torque out of the hole that it would wrap the rear axle and snap the u-joint off the rear end. Dad built some custom ladder bars and that old truck would squat and go! I out ran a lot of 80’s new cars with that little truck! Man it was fun! IROC Z, 84 Corvettes, Mustangs. I didn’t get beat very often.
We angle mill small block chevy heads to get compression out of them. But a lot of people don't realize even on those heads, how much correction machine work goes into them after they are cut
Angle cutting the joint face changes your intake manifold face perpindicularity, the perpindicularity of your bolt holes. Your tapped holes in the intake face will no longer be perpindicular to the intake manifold face. Or the correct angle to the intake side if they are angled. The faces for the head bolts need to be spot faced. Depending on just how much you take off you are messing with pushrod le goths and angles. Plus if you take more off off the exhaust side of the head face you have opened up a gap at the top of the head face.
Won of the many Reasons a small block Chevy is so hard to beat money wise....along with a good machinst,I worked at a machine shop..Rods/pistons and balancing back in the day,guy that done the block work done dirt track/Hot Street engines on the side,He would build a HOT chev. small block,030 over,125.angle milled ported 186/041/462/461/291 heads,deck the block and would use 350 Olds. rods with the right piston,in a 350 chevy with a certain solid lift crane cam,dude would sell this setup for around 2,000 bucks back then complete with used Victor jr intake,carb and the rest ready to go! You mentioning the angle mill brought back memeories! you know!
My '62 Dart is a factory 4bbl poly,& dual exhausts, and my '63 Plymouth is a 2bbl poly. In the real world there's little difference in power/acceleration. But the 4bbl set-up looks better.
GreaseMonkey67 I drove a 68 Satellite wagon with a 273 for 13 years. I wanted to see if my hatred of it could be changed. Nope. The 273, not the wagon.
The more I know about my car and how it works the more confident I am if I have to go to a shop for a service or repair I cannot/do not want to do. Helps cut the B.S.
i took of my 302s and advanced my cam 4 deg 480 lift put on shaved 50 360 j heads worked over little with thin head gaskets .big power and top end 4 speed 355 gear pulls hard flow is go .318 do run at 6500 shift bang cheap fun
Hey man I am really appreciating the 318 stuff. I have a 68 fury with the 318 and am trying to figure out what try he best combos for heads and what not. I am in northern Montana so they are everywhere up here.
Hey, Tony. I respect your superior knowledge and experience over mine which is why I am throwing this puzzle at you. I have a 1987 D150 with the 318 and automatic. It has the 302 heads as you said, but it also has the Quadrajet 4 barrel . A mechanic looked the engine over and said it all looked original. I have a picture of a option order sheet that the dealers use when ordering a vehicle from the factory. It lists 3 V8s, a 318 2V, a 318 4V and a 360. The order code for the 318 4V is ELC. What have I got?
Well I like the J casting due to the springs I use. The springs need a 1.77 compressed height and can do with milling down. Plus no emmision's air holes. I have a set of L castings and the only dif I can find is they only use 1 groove valve retainer and came with dual springs. To me the mopar swirl port caca is just that. Junk done to make cali happy.
There should also be other casting marks on the heads. Some castings will have some sort of date stamp. There may be casting numbers. A lot depends on just what system the factory used to track parts.
I heard from indy cylinder heads that I had to valve notch the block for 2.02 valve. What they didn't seem to understand is I had a 2.02 head on that 318 for 14 years before it started smoking
Mopar Performance used to sell PORTED 302 heads. The ports aren't larger, but are more modern and better designed. In the 1960's and 1970's, port volume was the main measure of flow, but in the 1980's, eliminating the dead air space on short turn radius, really helps port flow. The hard cover Mopar book from 1970 has a lot of porting and performance info with the older heads and valve sizes.
I have an '82 318 that I'll be putting a pair of 974 heads on (I'm pretty sure they're Js but I wouldn't swear to it!). After watching this video and hearing Tony's advice on not milling the heads, I've decided against it once and for all. I'll bring my compression up with either a set of KB 167s or 399s, depending on how generous or stingy I am at the time I order them.
Great vid. My current complete build is a 60 over 360 LA 1975 block engine with 308 heads with 1.88/1.60 valves, Carter TQ 6322, with a 1970 340HP cast iron intake. Camshaft is a Lunati 268, .494/.508. Sounds good with 1 5/8 headers. Let me know if this is a good combo.
It's interesting that the more modern heads where worse for performance than the older 318 heads. I am wondering if the 318 heads are hard to come by as they are intrinsically better for performance? Cheers for the video :-)
AMC guys run into some of the same issues. 290 and 304 heads have smaller valves. You can put a 390 or 401 head on a 290 but the intake might need relief cut in the cylinder. Not a good idea imo and why would one. And the heads all have the same valve center distance as they were all made on the same machining lines. equipment.. For the T/A heads on the 340. When the heads were being machined I'd be willing to bet the tooling for those push rod holes was simply removed from the drill station/s on that section of the transfer line and the holes drilled of line in a special fixture made just for that purpose. One reason for the different foundry Mark's is so the foundry can keep track of casting problems. If A castings are in spec and B casting is showing casting or core shift then the foundry knows which set of patterns for the casting may have problems. Casting marks can also be related to casting changes. Porting, cooling passages, wall thicknesses etc.
2016 Engine Masters magazine has a low-buck Magnum head porting article by Steve Dulicich . Intake flow @ .500" 202cfm 236cfm ported Exhaust flow @ .500" 150cfm 208cfm ported
Ok I'm gonna try one more time and then I'll know you're not listening. I love your old school knowledge and I'm not a young man by any means. I may be older than you. 52 by the way. I've always wondered why a 302 Ford has such a following which it deserves because it's awesome but My first car was a 73 Scamp 318 and I still have it and I want to make it fast at least in the 400hp range and I love the fact you put the 318 into the performance bracket I've always known it could be in. As a teenager and not knowing better I tried to make my 318 make power with what was available at the time. What I tried was a set of J heads .188 .160 and a crane cam that went thumpedy thump don't remember the specs that still worked fine with my factory converter and an Exelbrock dual plane intake and a Holley 4150 at 600cfm. As you can imagine it made my car a complete dog and it was slower than before I spent all my hard earned teenage money. The story goes on longer but as I got better jobs and more income and Mopars strongest vehicle was the Dakota R/T in the 90s I bought myself a new WS6 Ram air T/A and kinda hated myself in a way because it was soooooo much faster than my beloved Scamp I put my Mopar in storage hoping for a better day. I have read pretty much everything on the internet about making a 318 fast and as much as I would love to build a boosted 318 I can't afford it but maybe it could be in the cards down the line. I have an article saved called replacement for displacement in which Hughes engines and the Supercharger store built a factory stroke 318 with a Supercharger at 13lbs boost make 672HP and 331HP with no boost. For some reason they didn't explain even with the aluminum heads available at the time only available from Edelbrock they chose the Magnum heads. I would love you to do a comparison of Magnum heads VS La heads on the 318 as to what's available in today's market. Plus the benefits of stroking the 318 with the 4 inch crank VS staying with the stock stroke. I have bad health and only have enough funds and time to do one engine build before I leave this earth and there's nothing more I would love than to do it with the original heart from my first car I got in 1984 from my dad that bought it new in 73 because his 5 year old son fell in love with it when he went shopping and a new car and begged him to get THAT ONE.
I always like your show due to your past job of working for the magazine you really know how to convey your thoughts. However, I really wish you would actually work on something and assemble something in front of the camera like that slant six I've been dying to watch you rebuild that slant six that it's behind you in this video. Instead you just talked about projects you're working on constantly. Uncle Tony please build the engine like you did when you built the engine in the guy's dart. You keep showing us old parts I want to watch you build it step by step not what it looks like after you build it please I beg of you. I get really excited when I see all the projects when you do your project breakdown we're doing this we're working all night and we're going to put this in there for building this for the gambler. I'd love to watch a video of you actually doing the work on that project I don't know maybe I'm asking too much I really enjoy watching you work on bottle rocket not just talking about what you've done to bottle rocket.
hi Tony. great videos. i have question on the valve springs and retainers. my 67 LA 318 came with two different size valve springs and two style valve spring retainers. can you explain. thanks
*AWESOME video Unca' Tony!* When are you going to do the "other redheaded stepchild" small block Mopar v8~>the Chrysler+AMC creation called the _MAGNUM_ (mongoloid) series of motors. They take the mid-80s roller cam of the LA & integrate that into a revamped engine that uses AMC type rockers on a head that cracks due to poor heat treatment, "kegger" manifold for EFI w/ 90' attachment holes and a water pump that runs backwards.
I'm getting ready to rebuild a 318 for my 86 ram 2500 pick up. I'm going to up the cam a little and get better flow through it to raise the performance. I just want to pull a trailer and the 318 in it now is a real dog. But I've been a mopar guy since high school and no one ever really thought they were a performance motor or could be a performance engine. Quick Question. They used to make a lifter with a slightly longer wall on one side of it so you could run a roller cam. Do they still do that or do I have to break out the reamer kit to run a roller cam again?
Great vid, Tony! Especially the part where you advise against decking the heads. I'd almost found out about that the hard way, dodged a bullet there. Now I have a 318 out of a '80 Power Wagon with stock 360 heads and a Quadrajet, stock cam. It has 285NP pistons with 1.720in comp height. I had calculated low 7s in compression ratio. The engine is now on a Jeep CJ and I need torque and economy over power. Would you suggest going for higher pistons? Only 95 octane unleaded gas is available where I live. Thanks!
@@tl5108 Thanks for the advice but unfortunately, I’m not in the USA and I don’t have access to those. Shipping pistons is not as expensive as shipping heads.
Thanks for the tutorial. Question: I realize the 64-65 273 have different intake bolt size & angle, and the 66 has the standard angle and 3/8 bolt, but does 66 have closed chamber?
66 are closed chamber. I've got 3 sets of them, one of them I've put a 1.88 intake valve in, and have them running on a 360. It's a good head. There might be a difference in early 66 to late 66 with the intake bolt angle, which might be why Tony didn't say 66, but I don't know for sure. All my 66 casting can run a 318/340/360 intake and are closed chamber.
Hey Uncle Tony's Garage I have the cast#3418915 Heads year 1970 2.02 intake 1.60 extake would you say these are maybe the best head to have on a small block mopar? I look this up and only 1970 915 Heads are the 2.02 intake and 1.60 Extake
Hey Tony how about some stuff about B/RB heads? I've been using the same set of 3906 heads for years but believe there's might be a better way to go. Thanks
Can you do a couple videos on how to hot rod a 400. My 74 newport has one and i wouldn't mind a bit more HP. Right now now it has a 2 barrel. Im told you can get about 30hp by puttinh a 650cfm 4 barrel on. Any other mods i can do to the old engine to get a little more pep. 727 is out of a chysler van i dont kniw if theyres a huge difference. I mostly want to hear budget mods
Q about the 308 Head. Would it be OK to use with a forced induction system? Will a Turbo or Blower boost compression (enough) and also overcome the port flow restriction? At what RPM would it become a restriction to power, and would it be significant? Is there other reasons that it would be wrong for such an application?
@ uncle tony are the O heads on my 318 a open or closed chambered head? Now I’m off to watch your head porting video cuz regardless they’re coming off for a diy portorama and to also confirm what was told to me years ago about some parts used for the rebuild supposedly KB pistons and a purple shaft cam so we’ll see eventually a sb stroker will be built oh yes it will be built
What about an LA block with Magnum heads? The magnums are plentiful and cheap and I hear it's easy to retrofit them to the LA. How would they perform compared to the LA heads? I'd love to see a video on that topic.
So when I built my 1988 318 using a engine that was from a fuel injected 88 van did I make a mistake by not using the heads from the old carbed engine?
What about the W heads from Direct Connect/Mopar Performance? Pretty sure they have a unique valvetrain geometry and intake pattern as well, but you're able to open up the intake runners to get crazy flow.
Came out in 1976 W2 heads still getting it done Today and yes intake rockers are offset they flow well out of the box but with porting they are very impressive.
#302 heads have a much better combustion chamber design than previous designs on SBM's, as well as higher compression, better flow, better ignition and better velocities.
The 302 headers the worst flowing 318 had to ever be produced. It also does not have compression it has a chamber and it's sized to raise compression though. PS it also has the smallest Port volume at 119 cc's. You want to talk about misinformation...holy sht.
@@1WILDsMoPARtech So hold on to your old wedge style chambered heads, worse combustion of fuel and lower port velocities. Hey, at least you got bigger port volume though, right? Shit, if you want port volume.. Might as well slap a set of 360 heads on that 318. Let me know how all that extra volume works out for you. 🤣
I have to agree with PotatoeJoe. They might flow a little less but will have greater velocity and will make up for less flow with a much better combustion chamber with more compression just what the doctor ordered for street performance. Race head no good street head yes especially on smaller cubic inch engines I bet they would work very well on a 360 also though.
As much as I love your channel and respect you for your knowledge and tenacity you aren't exactly right about the 308 exhaust port. Bigger isn't always better and the straight shot theory doesn't always hold water. the "short" short side radius isn't good for flow l, the taller roof and taller short side will trounce that huge lazy port of the earlier head. As for the intake port, the pinch area acts as a venturi and works withe the roof and guide vane to promote swirl going into the combustion chamber. As for the combustion chamber IT SUCKS! They dropped the ball in that area, but can't win them all. Anyone swapping out a J head or equivalent with the 308 will see vast improvement in every area. I've been a viewer since your early days at the glass patio table and have enjoyed every minute of of you and Uncle Kathy. Please keep up the great work and roll up your window!
I’m building a stockish motor home 440 with 833 o/d trans. And 4.10 rear. I’m installing this in an 89 Dakota. Mabe 3200 lbs will this be boggy or will the torque compensate for wide ratio?
It appears my 87 D 150 318 will not be subject to the excitement of a build. Wrong DNA. Will earlier heads mounted on roller cam bottoms have pushrod interference problems. Did increased angularity cause a larger fatter pushrod to be specified? ? Why are the roller cam engines more desirable? Perhaps a video on sizing pushrod length after modifying the valve train. Really informative video. Answered questions and opened up others. Stay well.
yo tony.... I have a 318-3 in my 1969 m300 motorhome(22ft).....I thought it was odd having "large" spark plugs (like a 390 fomoco)....but anyway. I THINK that it is totally "unmolested". since the old phart I got it from....bought it new in 69. My question...it has 53k real miles, and I am refreshing it a bit. It has a stock 4bbl intake and a thermoquad. I replaced it with a edelbrock 500cfm, and pleased with the results, and plan to use a Comp rv cam /lifters that (according to comp), makes good torque between 1000 and 3200rpm. My question...is these heads worth a shit? This pig taps-out at a curb weight of about 84oolbs, and torque is my goal........BUT I live in idaho and mountain passes could use some more horsepower...am I good to just do a valve job on these stock heads or go with some bolt-on 360 heads?? thanks for your valued input!!! HOWEVER, the thermoquad has a body number that comes from a 70ish mopar. WTF?
All of the J head castings were the same, there was no extra material added to the TA version of that head, they simply relocated the pushrod holes which enabled you to Port out the pinch, I own a set of ta heads. Years ago we converted a set of J heads into TA heads by plugging up the pushrod holes with cast iron round stock And redrilling the heads to accept the TA rockers, these heads flowed around 265 cfm after they reported
I got a 318 out of a 73 Winnebago. The heads take 18mm spark plugs and the heads have a coolant passage that flows across to heat the intake instead of using exhaust. The most I can figure out about these is that they only come with the 318-3 industrial package. These heads junk or gold?
I have a set of -67 318 truck heads with water heated intake, casting number 2658234. Are they any good for mild performance 318 with a little porting?
What is so sad is guys like Tony (with all that knowledge) are fewer and fewer as time goes by. He has all those years of knowledge and experience, and it will all be lost if videos like this are not being made. It's great that he is making these you tube videos, to help the younger generations.!!!
that's why im learning as much as I can from him, to keep the classic Mopar legacy going.
Thankfully he’s passing down all this priceless information for young (or older) Mopar-heads. I’m beyond thankful for this data. I’m filling up pages upon pages of my notebook with this amazing information.
Certain people gifted with the talent of explaining complicated theory in a way that's understandable and he has a great time doing it. He's fun to watch.
Guys like Tony are and always have been few. Tony is in a another realm of knowledge/obsession with the small block Chrysler. I'm not a ford guy and somewhat a chevy guy, but I love the Chrysler motors. Ya, thats right, I love the underdog that beats the giants with his smarts. Rather than his wallet. I can't believe what he gets out of the "lowly" 318. I just wish I would have known this stuff back in the 70s. I went for a ride in a guys 70 challender with a 318 that just screamed. He said it was some sort of a "hemi" style engine. I think it was probably a built 318 poly after watching Tonys vids. Thanks Tony, you are the best!
Perfect timing for this! I'm putting the family 67 Fury station wagon back together with an 88 fifth avenue 318 and a 73 PW 360 as donors. This video answered all my questions. Thanks uncle T.
In 1991, I think, mopar performance released their new performance heads, 308's. I replaced the J heads that were bowl ported and port matched with 2.02 intake valves in my 360, mainly because of the ability to use unleaded gas. Was kind of disappointed with the smallish ports, but despite of that bolted them on with new valves etc. The engine felt much crisper with the 308's, on a butt dyno. Then I took it to the strip..., and gained over 6 mph over the previous best, and cut 0.8 seconds off from the ET. Similar feelings about the 302 heads, have built a few engines using them, homeported and with 1.88" intake valves. A 318 with an ancient Offenhauser intake made 335 hp in dyno at 5500. And was still climbing. A 273 commando with factory intake, 320 hp at 6000. So, I wouldn't count them out. Race heads they are not, but neither are any of the factory castings. For moderate performance they work great. The exhaust ports of the 302 heads are just the same as in the previous 318 heads. Just ported one set a few weeks ago, with 1.78/1.50 valves. Flow at 0.4" was 198/131, and at 0.5" the exhaust climbed to 139. Enough for over 400 hp at only 0.4" lift.
As always, Uncle Tony does a great job of providing engine education to his viewers. Very interesting video 👍
Tony on both intake and exhaust I have ported 308s with a 2.02 and they kill just about any other small block head on the flow bench for raw flow, the reshape of the ports had a pretty significant effect, also magnum heads suffer the same malady of pushrod constricting port even have the same pushrod size orifice, and are generally considered the best factory head for raw power potential. Now the 302's will not flow as much, but they can move well into 240-250cfm at as low as .300 lift and hold it past .500 is easy to build a 400hp 318 with a street cam them. Love the show, keep the info rolling.
SIDE NOTE: Anyone looking to do later head's if your that worried about the constriction, just press in tubes and grind till you find lol.
What do you do about the intrusion of the pushrod holes? Can you take any material off of them to increase flow?
@@npp3559just like the early ones you can grind into it, you just can't open the restriction as much, the easy way to measure how much metal is left is to make an e-tool, or the all out method is grind right thru it and press a new thin-wall tube into the pushrod hole with some retaining compound, use a spray metal welder and reseal the hole, braze it, I've even seen people epoxy the entire pushrod hole shut then machine new pushrod slots.
There’s no book with this amount of on the spot knowledge. Wow thanks man!
I was hoping you would do this.after the last video. Ford guy here but now have a 283 for something different. I also intend to acquire a mopar. You've done a hand full of videos that have been very helpful. Thanks man
Love the wait, there's more Uncle Tony. My 340J headed motor had a water in oil issue from the beginning when it was hotrodded, not to mention the overheating. Victor Junior manifold was eventually found to have 9 thousandths of an inch mismatch from top of face to bottom. Not much but enough to leak coolant. The machine shop also narrowed the manifold to allow port alignment, lowering it in the valley by nearly 70 thousandths of an inch. Hoping we have cured both the coolant issue and found the horsepower shortfall.
Had a 318 with ported 273 heads. Increased stock compression and flow.
Thanks for the great info. I'm rebuilding a tired 1971 318-2V and found a set of 714 (302 style) heads for it; I wanted newer heads with hardened valve seats. It is staying a two barrel stocker so I didn't feel the need to get larger valves or do much port work beyond the mildest cleanup. Hopefully this setup will make a long lasting and enjoyable driver.
Well I have to disagree , , I took a 340 with ported X heads to the dyno on a thursday , swapped the heads over the weekend to ported 308 heads & returned to the dyno on tuesday , the car made 41 extra RWHP using the 308 heads on the same dyno at the same temperature & running it up to 6000+ RPM ! it is well known raising the exhaust floor seriously helps HP , careful opening of the pushrod wall in the intake helped also but keep in mind it creates a venturi there speeding the intake flow behind the valve , now I do some very trick porting around the guides & behind the seats as well . I will be more than happy to trade any set of the X or J heads for 308 castings , the 308s are seriously the Best production LA casting . Important to note the early 273 heads used a different intake bolt angle as well .
Yeah they raised the intake ports in the 308 to makeup for the bigger pushrod holes. The 308 are supposed to be the best flowing stock heads. After watching this video I have to question anything he says
Don't forget to mention there is also a U casting! And how about putting a little love on the 273 headed self everybody says they're junk but they're not just the 273 8920 casting!! Thanks for your time!! Love the videos keep up the good work!
I have a set of U heads on my 1972 Cuda. Do you know what years they were made?
I've been running a set of 273 heads with a 1.88 intake valve on a couple of my 360s for almost 20 years. In my 68 Dart, using a stock bottom end 360 with a solid lifter 292 cam, it was good for a high 12 second E.T. at 105 MPH. Very good power, and good throttle response. That same car got 17 MPG while being that fast. But now I don't bother with older LA heads, I just port up the Magnums and convert everything over to that. Going to be interesting to see Uncle Tony's 273 Magnum build, when I mocked up that combination, the bigger valves were too close to the 3.625 bore that I had to notch the block to get a comfortable amount of clearance, but I never finished building that motor, put together a 318 instead.
Your smarter than uncle tony!
Love your knowledge Tony and as I have almost none it is all a great thing. I'M still on the fence about the Magnum headed LA. In my ignorance I had a machine shop completely rebuilt a set of J 1.88 1.60 heads for my 318 not knowing it would make my car slower which it did. We would love to see about the Magnums and how well, or not they work.
I had the best 318 V-8 in my 1974 DODGE Coronet Custom.That engine was smooth as butter and totally police car fast. I had a single exhaust, but I always wanted headers and dual glass packs.
I’m about to tear the top end down on my 72 318 dart swinger, heads need valve seals, and I’m also gonna get the edlebrock performer kit for it 👍 my first engine tear down
Use compressed air in cylinder at TDC..will save a bunch of time and money
My first vehicle was a 72 dart swinger with a 225. That motor was bulletproof.
Austin, I am about to to the same thing. Though, I've recently been told that the new intake manifolds have ports too large for the 318 heads. Is this true? Have you heard any comments on this? I too was thinking of going with the Edelbrock Performance set up.
Has the swinger got a 2 or 4bbl on it now?
My friend had a 72 dodge dart swinger with a factory 340
The spirit Of 76. Must be a1 of 1
Thanks heaps uncle Tony, I'm learning alot and it's easy to understand 👌
Thanks for putting out this very useful info. you're the man uncle tony!
The guy is a walking encyclopedia. I bet he has a photographic memory as well.
Thank you Tony: I have been wondering why my 1980 d150 360 heads wouldn't work on a 1988 roller 360 motor home block I installed in the d150 with a ring ,valve ,timing chain and bearing job .The pushrods were draggin the holes. I sold them and did a valve job on the 88 heads and motored on just fine. I was never quite sure of the why but you explained it clearly.
Learned some new stuff. I dealt with mostly 68-74 340/360 HP engines. I ran a roller cam in my 71 Duster 340 Super Stock. The Ramchargers did my machine work and ran 1/2" copper tubing thru the lifter valley on the right side I believe. Then a long drill was used to supply the oil back to the crank. Basically you blocked off all oil to the lifter bores and redirected to the main and rod bearings. You could only run solid or roller lifters with that block mod. My bearings would look brand new after a whole season of racing. I think I used Crane billit rollers and quite expensive for 1974! The copper tubing was nothing more than copper water pipe you buy at a hardware store! The Ramchargers knew all the tricks back then. Some guys would bush each lifter bore which created more problems if not machined properly. I know, another machine shop ruined my first block doing that.
Sounds similiar to the oiling issue with AMC Gen2 and 3 V-8s. The oil galley on the right side of the block feeds the lifters, cam and crank bearings. The back two crank and cam bearings can suffer from low oil pressure at sustained high RPM. There are two ways around this problem (three if you go dry sump). Drill new oil supply lines to feed from the left side oil galley. More commonly is to drill and tap for two 1/8th or 1/4 NPT holes. One at the front, the other towards the rear. Plus the porting on the lube system should be polished and gasket matched. Oldsmob455 has a video series on it www.google.com/search?q=amc+oil+pump+rebuild&oq=amc+oil+pump+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i457j0l3.6161j0j9&client=tablet-android-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#
@@mpetersen6 I remember the lines below the manifold. The setup I used solved three problems. Added lube for the bearings, no normal leakage around the lifter bores and some lifter when used with a high lift cam would expose the machined slot in the lifter body made for the roller bearing. I used 2 lifter types. The Cam Dynamics sucked and the links were very fragile. A few broke and wiped out my roller cam. The Cranes were built out of solid stock and were bullet proof! We had a large contingent of Mopar racers in Ohio especially around Cleveland/Akron. After the factory guys got theirs we were next. Rod Shop out of Columbus had great Mopars too! Actually we had great cars from all mfgs racing here. Those were fun times. I held the National Record with my cars 3 times.
@@craigcontofalsky4387 even with solid roller lifters I think I would still prefer to have an oil supply to the lifters rather than just rely on drain back. Just doesn't need to be as much as you need for hydraulic lifters. To be honest I think once the camless engines begin to hit the street it won't be long before people start getting their hands on the components.
@@mpetersen6 you might be right about the oil in the lifter bores but it was a drag racing engine only. Probably not a good idea for a street engine. Those Crane lifters were $600 back in 1974 so it wouldn't be economically sound for a street car. My Brother bought his used 70 Dart Swinger 340 for $1,500! My 9" J converter was $600 too!! Stictly race only stuff. That was the early days of roller cams in LA Chrysler engines. Now every dam engine made has them!
When I was younger I bought a 68 318 complete motor. The local machine shop bored it .040 over, and rebuilt the short block. My dad Rebuilt the heads, we installed an RV grind cam from a local shop, headers, Edelbrock torquer intake, holley 600 CFM carb. I put it in a short bed 81 dodge truck with a manual 4 speed. That little mill had so much torque out of the hole that it would wrap the rear axle and snap the u-joint off the rear end. Dad built some custom ladder bars and that old truck would squat and go! I out ran a lot of 80’s new cars with that little truck! Man it was fun! IROC Z, 84 Corvettes, Mustangs. I didn’t get beat very often.
I have a set of w-2 heads I need to get to working on. Great video
Very interresting, thanks for sharing the video .
Glenn, sweden
My dad loved dusters and darts
But the one that lasted was a slant valiant. I still remember seeing the road through the rusted out floorboards
We angle mill small block chevy heads to get compression out of them. But a lot of people don't realize even on those heads, how much correction machine work goes into them after they are cut
Angle cutting the joint face changes your intake manifold face perpindicularity, the perpindicularity of your bolt holes. Your tapped holes in the intake face will no longer be perpindicular to the intake manifold face. Or the correct angle to the intake side if they are angled. The faces for the head bolts need to be spot faced. Depending on just how much you take off you are messing with pushrod le goths and angles. Plus if you take more off off the exhaust side of the head face you have opened up a gap at the top of the head face.
@@mpetersen6 correct, a lot of people don't understand that
Won of the many Reasons a small block Chevy is so hard to beat money wise....along with a good machinst,I worked at a machine shop..Rods/pistons and balancing back in the day,guy that done the block work done dirt track/Hot Street engines on the side,He would build a HOT chev. small block,030 over,125.angle milled ported 186/041/462/461/291 heads,deck the block and would use 350 Olds. rods with the right piston,in a 350 chevy with a certain solid lift crane cam,dude would sell this setup for around 2,000 bucks back then complete with used Victor jr intake,carb and the rest ready to go! You mentioning the angle mill brought back memeories! you know!
30 year ago
A Good Machist can save a common man ALOT of money!
Very informative...Thanks Uncle Tony
I use screw drivers and sockets, but a finger works as well.... :D
Thanks Uncle Tony for the info you never fail to deliver the goods. Can you do the same comparison on the big blocks stuff?
Love your videos with details like this. I would love a 4 barrel intake for my 318 Poly.
Yeah breathing better is always better.let the teen get to it's potential.flush the exhaust little back pressure
My '62 Dart is a factory 4bbl poly,& dual exhausts, and my '63 Plymouth is a 2bbl poly. In the real world there's little difference in power/acceleration. But the 4bbl set-up looks better.
No offense... but I’d pull those boat anchors out.
@@drippinglass why are you even here?
GreaseMonkey67 I drove a 68 Satellite wagon with a 273 for 13 years. I wanted to see if my hatred of it could be changed. Nope. The 273, not the wagon.
I want to quit my job and just intern for Uncle Tony. Another great video
I appreciate it UT,thank u sir🇺🇸
The more I know about my car and how it works the more confident I am if I have to go to a shop for a service or repair I cannot/do not want to do. Helps cut the B.S.
i took of my 302s and advanced my cam 4 deg 480 lift put on shaved 50 360 j heads worked over little with thin head gaskets .big power and top end 4 speed 355 gear pulls hard flow is go .318 do run at 6500 shift bang cheap fun
Hey man I am really appreciating the 318 stuff. I have a 68 fury with the 318 and am trying to figure out what try he best combos for heads and what not. I am in northern Montana so they are everywhere up here.
years ago i knew a mopar guy he asse4mbeled a 73 dart auto 340 block with 318 heads ,,that was a little beast.
The 360 came out in '71 with J heads and small intake valve.
Thanks for the video uncle Tony! Can you do one for factory mopar heads, I have a set of 902s of a 74 440 but can't find much on them.
Hey, Tony. I respect your superior knowledge and experience over mine which is why I am throwing this puzzle at you. I have a 1987 D150 with the 318 and automatic. It has the 302 heads as you said, but it also has the Quadrajet 4 barrel . A mechanic looked the engine over and said it all looked original. I have a picture of a option order sheet that the dealers use when ordering a vehicle from the factory. It lists 3 V8s, a 318 2V, a 318 4V and a 360. The order code for the 318 4V is ELC. What have I got?
I built a 71 318 and I’m running 1.94” intake valves
Thank you for that info on the various heads.. If you milled the head, would to them have to mill the floor of the intake?
Well I like the J casting due to the springs I use. The springs need a 1.77 compressed height and can do with milling down. Plus no emmision's air holes. I have a set of L castings and the only dif I can find is they only use 1 groove valve retainer and came with dual springs. To me the mopar swirl port caca is just that. Junk done to make cali happy.
There should also be other casting marks on the heads. Some castings will have some sort of date stamp. There may be casting numbers. A lot depends on just what system the factory used to track parts.
Guys are still playing with the old cast iron stuff. That’s pretty cool !
@@jonathanlawson4667 This is a laid back old school channel for guys have fun on the cheap. What's so hard to understand about that?
I heard from indy cylinder heads that I had to valve notch the block for 2.02 valve. What they didn't seem to understand is I had a 2.02 head on that 318 for 14 years before it started smoking
Mopar Performance used to sell PORTED 302 heads. The ports aren't larger, but are more modern and better designed. In the 1960's and 1970's, port volume was the main measure of flow, but in the 1980's, eliminating the dead air space on short turn radius, really helps port flow. The hard cover Mopar book from 1970 has a lot of porting and performance info with the older heads and valve sizes.
I have an 88 fifth ave 318 2bbl. it says it has 9:1 comp, roller cam and swirl port heads. im assuming it has 302 heads give this article.
@@petershinkfield4980 Yes, besides the compression from the small chambers, the chambers are a more modern design, that really do help power.
i have a factory 4bbl themoquad and was thinking of fleshing up the motor, not sure if the cam is smog rubbish and needs to be upgraded as well.
I LIKE THE 413 FOR POWER ON THE X-PRESS WAYS WITH HIGH GEAR RATIO .THAT 413 TURNING 2200 RPM AT 70 MPH.
I have an '82 318 that I'll be putting a pair of 974 heads on (I'm pretty sure they're Js but I wouldn't swear to it!). After watching this video and hearing Tony's advice on not milling the heads, I've decided against it once and for all. I'll bring my compression up with either a set of KB 167s or 399s, depending on how generous or stingy I am at the time I order them.
Uncle Tony... another class well taught in a language I understand.
Kudos to the Chef
I love your work Tony
You are right about the 302 head's you are smart man
Great vid. My current complete build is a 60 over 360 LA 1975 block engine with 308 heads with 1.88/1.60 valves, Carter TQ 6322, with a 1970 340HP cast iron intake. Camshaft is a Lunati 268, .494/.508. Sounds good with 1 5/8 headers. Let me know if this is a good combo.
Well now I've learned something. I have used 302 heads in a budget application but in a truck they are good for that.
Yeah I put 302 on my 318. Work great on my truck for the down low torque
Hey Tony, have you done any build vids on the RB series? I'm getting ready to pull and rebuild the 440 in my 76 W100 PW.
Good video don’t forget the direct connection w2 Econo and race versions
Hey forgot to wish you all a happy new year. So... Happy New Year, all o ya !
It's interesting that the more modern heads where worse for performance than the older 318 heads. I am wondering if the 318 heads are hard to come by as they are intrinsically better for performance? Cheers for the video :-)
AMC guys run into some of the same issues. 290 and 304 heads have smaller valves. You can put a 390 or 401 head on a 290 but the intake might need relief cut in the cylinder. Not a good idea imo and why would one. And the heads all have the same valve center distance as they were all made on the same machining lines. equipment..
For the T/A heads on the 340. When the heads were being machined I'd be willing to bet the tooling for those push rod holes was simply removed from the drill station/s on that section of the transfer line and the holes drilled of line in a special fixture made just for that purpose.
One reason for the different foundry Mark's is so the foundry can keep track of casting problems. If A castings are in spec and B casting is showing casting or core shift then the foundry knows which set of patterns for the casting may have problems. Casting marks can also be related to casting changes. Porting, cooling passages, wall thicknesses etc.
Great information!!!
Are you going to cover the engine quest 318 b heads when on your magnum tutorials, concidering bolting a set on my 89' la 318 for my shelby dakota.
2016 Engine Masters magazine has a low-buck Magnum head porting article by Steve Dulicich .
Intake flow @ .500" 202cfm 236cfm ported Exhaust flow @ .500" 150cfm 208cfm ported
Those are pretty good numbers for worked over factory heads. Even stock that's as good as a set of ported 289 4v heads.
Ok I'm gonna try one more time and then I'll know you're not listening. I love your old school knowledge and I'm not a young man by any means. I may be older than you. 52 by the way. I've always wondered why a 302 Ford has such a following which it deserves because it's awesome but My first car was a 73 Scamp 318 and I still have it and I want to make it fast at least in the 400hp range and I love the fact you put the 318 into the performance bracket I've always known it could be in. As a teenager and not knowing better I tried to make my 318 make power with what was available at the time. What I tried was a set of J heads .188 .160 and a crane cam that went thumpedy thump don't remember the specs that still worked fine with my factory converter and an Exelbrock dual plane intake and a Holley 4150 at 600cfm. As you can imagine it made my car a complete dog and it was slower than before I spent all my hard earned teenage money. The story goes on longer but as I got better jobs and more income and Mopars strongest vehicle was the Dakota R/T in the 90s I bought myself a new WS6 Ram air T/A and kinda hated myself in a way because it was soooooo much faster than my beloved Scamp I put my Mopar in storage hoping for a better day. I have read pretty much everything on the internet about making a 318 fast and as much as I would love to build a boosted 318 I can't afford it but maybe it could be in the cards down the line. I have an article saved called replacement for displacement in which Hughes engines and the Supercharger store built a factory stroke 318 with a Supercharger at 13lbs boost make 672HP and 331HP with no boost. For some reason they didn't explain even with the aluminum heads available at the time only available from Edelbrock they chose the Magnum heads. I would love you to do a comparison of Magnum heads VS La heads on the 318 as to what's available in today's market. Plus the benefits of stroking the 318 with the 4 inch crank VS staying with the stock stroke. I have bad health and only have enough funds and time to do one engine build before I leave this earth and there's nothing more I would love than to do it with the original heart from my first car I got in 1984 from my dad that bought it new in 73 because his 5 year old son fell in love with it when he went shopping and a new car and begged him to get THAT ONE.
The 85 roller cam block, is there a choice of heads for it beyond the factory fast burn or open chamber castings?
I always like your show due to your past job of working for the magazine you really know how to convey your thoughts. However, I really wish you would actually work on something and assemble something in front of the camera like that slant six I've been dying to watch you rebuild that slant six that it's behind you in this video. Instead you just talked about projects you're working on constantly. Uncle Tony please build the engine like you did when you built the engine in the guy's dart. You keep showing us old parts I want to watch you build it step by step not what it looks like after you build it please I beg of you. I get really excited when I see all the projects when you do your project breakdown we're doing this we're working all night and we're going to put this in there for building this for the gambler. I'd love to watch a video of you actually doing the work on that project I don't know maybe I'm asking too much I really enjoy watching you work on bottle rocket not just talking about what you've done to bottle rocket.
hi Tony. great videos. i have question on the valve springs and retainers. my 67 LA 318 came with two different size valve springs and two style valve spring retainers. can you explain. thanks
*AWESOME video Unca' Tony!* When are you going to do the "other redheaded stepchild" small block Mopar v8~>the Chrysler+AMC creation called the _MAGNUM_ (mongoloid) series of motors. They take the mid-80s roller cam of the LA & integrate that into a revamped engine that uses AMC type rockers on a head that cracks due to poor heat treatment, "kegger" manifold for EFI w/ 90' attachment holes and a water pump that runs backwards.
Good information. 2000 Tj. How about letting the Beagles pick one?
Always amazing information, only experience, skill, and rational thinking could generate anything this good.
I'm getting ready to rebuild a 318 for my 86 ram 2500 pick up. I'm going to up the cam a little and get better flow through it to raise the performance. I just want to pull a trailer and the 318 in it now is a real dog. But I've been a mopar guy since high school and no one ever really thought they were a performance motor or could be a performance engine. Quick Question. They used to make a lifter with a slightly longer wall on one side of it so you could run a roller cam. Do they still do that or do I have to break out the reamer kit to run a roller cam again?
Great vid, Tony! Especially the part where you advise against decking the heads. I'd almost found out about that the hard way, dodged a bullet there.
Now I have a 318 out of a '80 Power Wagon with stock 360 heads and a Quadrajet, stock cam. It has 285NP pistons with 1.720in comp height. I had calculated low 7s in compression ratio. The engine is now on a Jeep CJ and I need torque and economy over power. Would you suggest going for higher pistons? Only 95 octane unleaded gas is available where I live. Thanks!
I’d try to find a set of 302 heads for it. They’re pretty easy to find and they work well for low rpm torque applications
@@tl5108 Thanks for the advice but unfortunately, I’m not in the USA and I don’t have access to those. Shipping pistons is not as expensive as shipping heads.
Thanks for the tutorial. Question: I realize the 64-65 273 have different intake bolt size & angle, and the 66 has the standard angle and 3/8 bolt, but does 66 have closed chamber?
66 are closed chamber. I've got 3 sets of them, one of them I've put a 1.88 intake valve in, and have them running on a 360. It's a good head. There might be a difference in early 66 to late 66 with the intake bolt angle, which might be why Tony didn't say 66, but I don't know for sure. All my 66 casting can run a 318/340/360 intake and are closed chamber.
Hey Uncle Tony's Garage I have the cast#3418915 Heads year 1970 2.02 intake 1.60 extake would you say these are maybe the best head to have on a small block mopar? I look this up and only 1970 915 Heads are the 2.02 intake and 1.60 Extake
I read somewhere the ‘78-‘79 Little Red Express Truck came equipped with the “W” 340-360 police intercepter heads. What’s your thoughts on that head?
have you seen the work marty has done with the stock kegger magnum intake i think you will be impressed
I'm currently trying to figure out what junkyard heads to look for that may have larger port size, bolt on, and will fit my 1978 360?
Hey Tony how about some stuff about B/RB heads? I've been using the same set of 3906 heads for years but believe there's might be a better way to go. Thanks
Can you do a couple videos on how to hot rod a 400. My 74 newport has one and i wouldn't mind a bit more HP. Right now now it has a 2 barrel. Im told you can get about 30hp by puttinh a 650cfm 4 barrel on. Any other mods i can do to the old engine to get a little more pep. 727 is out of a chysler van i dont kniw if theyres a huge difference. I mostly want to hear budget mods
So how do you make older heads work on a roller motor.
Thanks.
Q about the 308 Head. Would it be OK to use with a forced induction system? Will a Turbo or Blower boost compression (enough) and also overcome the port flow restriction? At what RPM would it become a restriction to power, and would it be significant? Is there other reasons that it would be wrong for such an application?
@ uncle tony are the O heads on my 318 a open or closed chambered head? Now I’m off to watch your head porting video cuz regardless they’re coming off for a diy portorama and to also confirm what was told to me years ago about some parts used for the rebuild supposedly KB pistons and a purple shaft cam so we’ll see eventually a sb stroker will be built oh yes it will be built
Hey any chance you can talk about the w2 ,w5,8,9 heads ? Thank you love the in go ok and history
What about an LA block with Magnum heads? The magnums are plentiful and cheap and I hear it's easy to retrofit them to the LA. How would they perform compared to the LA heads? I'd love to see a video on that topic.
So when I built my 1988 318 using a engine that was from a fuel injected 88 van did I make a mistake by not using the heads from the old carbed engine?
What about the W heads from Direct Connect/Mopar Performance? Pretty sure they have a unique valvetrain geometry and intake pattern as well, but you're able to open up the intake runners to get crazy flow.
Came out in 1976
W2 heads still getting it done
Today and yes intake rockers are offset they flow well out of the box but with porting they are very impressive.
Is it possible to port the 302 heads to make up for the restriction? Also would this require new valves?
Uncle tony.. ya gotta give your knowledge on the old mythological 572 wedge!!!!!!!!
#302 heads have a much better combustion chamber design than previous designs on SBM's, as well as higher compression, better flow, better ignition and better velocities.
They are small ports though
Good if you want low end torque, for a truck or what not
The 302 headers the worst flowing 318 had to ever be produced. It also does not have compression it has a chamber and it's sized to raise compression though. PS it also has the smallest Port volume at 119 cc's. You want to talk about misinformation...holy sht.
@@1WILDsMoPARtech So hold on to your old wedge style chambered heads, worse combustion of fuel and lower port velocities. Hey, at least you got bigger port volume though, right?
Shit, if you want port volume.. Might as well slap a set of 360 heads on that 318. Let me know how all that extra volume works out for you. 🤣
I have to agree with PotatoeJoe. They might flow a little less but will have greater velocity and will make up for less flow with a much better combustion chamber with more compression just what the doctor ordered for street performance. Race head no good street head yes especially on smaller cubic inch engines I bet they would work very well on a 360 also though.
As much as I love your channel and respect you for your knowledge and tenacity you aren't exactly right about the 308 exhaust port. Bigger isn't always better and the straight shot theory doesn't always hold water. the "short" short side radius isn't good for flow l, the taller roof and taller short side will trounce that huge lazy port of the earlier head. As for the intake port, the pinch area acts as a venturi and works withe the roof and guide vane to promote swirl going into the combustion chamber. As for the combustion chamber IT SUCKS! They dropped the ball in that area, but can't win them all. Anyone swapping out a J head or equivalent with the 308 will see vast improvement in every area.
I've been a viewer since your early days at the glass patio table and have enjoyed every minute of of you and Uncle Kathy. Please keep up the great work and roll up your window!
had a T/A they(pushrods) were adjustable as well
I’m building a stockish motor home 440 with 833 o/d trans. And 4.10 rear. I’m installing this in an 89 Dakota. Mabe 3200 lbs will this be boggy or will the torque compensate for wide ratio?
It appears my 87 D 150 318 will not be subject to the excitement of a build. Wrong DNA.
Will earlier heads mounted on roller cam bottoms have pushrod interference problems. Did increased angularity cause a larger fatter pushrod to be specified? ?
Why are the roller cam engines more desirable?
Perhaps a video on sizing pushrod length after modifying the valve train.
Really informative video. Answered questions and opened up others. Stay well.
yo tony.... I have a 318-3 in my 1969 m300 motorhome(22ft).....I thought it was odd having "large" spark plugs (like a 390 fomoco)....but anyway. I THINK that it is totally "unmolested". since the old phart I got it from....bought it new in 69. My question...it has 53k real miles, and I am refreshing it a bit. It has a stock 4bbl intake and a thermoquad. I replaced it with a edelbrock 500cfm, and pleased with the results, and plan to use a Comp rv cam /lifters that (according to comp), makes good torque between 1000 and 3200rpm. My question...is these heads worth a shit? This pig taps-out at a curb weight of about 84oolbs, and torque is my goal........BUT I live in idaho and mountain passes could use some more horsepower...am I good to just do a valve job on these stock heads or go with some
bolt-on 360 heads?? thanks for your valued input!!! HOWEVER, the thermoquad has a body number that comes from a 70ish mopar. WTF?
I was always told and thought the M heads had a slightly different valve angle!
Good video 👍
All of the J head castings were the same, there was no extra material added to the TA version of that head, they simply relocated the pushrod holes which enabled you to Port out the pinch, I own a set of ta heads. Years ago we converted a set of J heads into TA heads by plugging up the pushrod holes with cast iron round stock And redrilling the heads to accept the TA rockers, these heads flowed around 265 cfm after they reported
I got a 318 out of a 73 Winnebago. The heads take 18mm spark plugs and the heads have a coolant passage that flows across to heat the intake instead of using exhaust. The most I can figure out about these is that they only come with the 318-3 industrial package. These heads junk or gold?
Can you use the good heads with the roller block? Given the lifter angle can it be made to work out?
might have to grind a little where the pushrods come thru
How about a video on the performance heads w-2, w-5, w-9 and nascar type heads, what's the best out there???
That would be super helpful!
I have a set of -67 318 truck heads with water heated intake, casting number 2658234. Are they any good for mild performance 318 with a little porting?
Can you put a 318 poly head on late model roller cam block?