Polishing Steel to a Mirror Finish & Brushed Metal Finish! MFG@Home
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Needing a better way to polish steel, I picked up this 2x36 belt grinder attachment for a bench grinder! It's a great value at $200 and I've been very pleased with the results.
This video is a quick demo of using a 100 grit belt to rough the part then finishing with either a scotch-brite belt for a brushed metal look or using progressive finishes for a mirror-like finished. The mirror finish is far from perfect - due in part to a mediocre operator and a mediocre platen but it should offer a good idea of what this machine is capable of!
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To flatten the top plate just turn the belt inside out.... grit facing the plate and use a true flat plate to lightly add pressure to the belt. This way the multitool will correct itself. Just ensure you have an air blower pointing to the inside of the belt towards the lower part of the wheel at the front to stop swarf from collecting .
If you held it with a piece of leather you wouldn't be afraid of the heat that machine is priceless ! I wish I had one 30 years ago !
To easily fix the platten problem, use contact cement and a thin 1/16"-1/8") piece of UHMW to cover it. This is the type of plastic used for sliding surfaces and bearing slides. I use it to make telescoping square tubing.
You will also find it easier to hold small parts like that with suction cups at the end of small dowel rods, one for each hand.
I polished an aluminum plate (250mm by 200 mm) to mirror finish using a $30 dollar grinder from Lowes, polishing wheel, 400 grit sand paper, 2000 grit sand paper. By the way, you shouldn't breath in metal dust.
If you are worried about the flatness of the backing plate. Turn your belts over and push down with a flat piece of steel. Then you are cutting in and will smooth out the backing plate.
Great idea, you are a thinker!!!
Great idea sir
Great idea sir
Multi-tool has been Australia's best kept secret in Linishers for decades. It's great to see them getting love from a wider audience.
Thanks!
Australia 4 the WIN!!!
Here's an idea to save sanding down your finger tips if you are sanding steel : get a short block of wood, say about 1"x1" x 4" and drill a series of shallow 1/2" holes in a row with a Forstner drill bit. Epoxy or hot melt glue in some rare earth magnets. It will make a perfect handle for holding your steel work piece.
I have this belt /disc sander attachment (multi tool) on a crappy craftsman grinder I love it works great . best thing since sliced bread
I have one coming for my craftsman...Will it mount like a tower to access platen vertical for knife bevels?..I read on demo it can but have not seen anyone using like a tower to do plunge lines......So the platen is uo and down with front wheel up in the air....Thoughts?
Awesome primer on polishing metal to a mirror finish. It gives a lay person a good overview of all the material and time that it takes to get the desired results. You also make an excellent teacher.
I had this setup but ended up building my own 2x72 with a more powerfull motor as it was pretty easy to stall the grinder motor.
I use a welding magnet to hold pieces for grinding, pretty cheap on evilbay
To slow down the belt, use one of those crepe rubber belt cleaners. you can stop it real quick and it will make the belt last longer too.
What a pleasant surprise to see your video pop up searching for polishing steel. I need to go back and start watching your channel from day 1 lol
+NYC CNC lol can't be that bad.
Thanks for posting...Im doing my first custom scales on a few Frank Beltrame switchblade kits I ordered this summer, Ive always had the folks at Ross cutlery in L.A. do my sharpening and polishing, they do a GREAT job but after graduation Im going to have to buy one of these and learn to do it myself, so your vids will help a lot. The only suggestion I might make is safety glasses...my brother got a red hot ember in his eye once, I've never seen a man in so much pain, you'll be glad you were wearing them one day! Keep up the good work, Im sure there is a thousand ways to make that machine pay for itself.
looks like a perfect use for a mag-base to keep your fingers @ the same length they were before. also should help keep the edge rounding to a minimum. (also, also... now that you have a surface grinder, that platen should be nice and flat now.)
When you get to your higher grits such as 400 grit and beyond you need to use it wet it helps prevent loading of debris and clogging on the paper and gives you a better finish yes it’s a mass but it’s also a must for a perfect mirror finish.
I forgot to say a light kerosene or polishing oil helps also
Great video!
From a production stand point, I appreciate the 8X in the bottom corner when you high-speed your video. I've been doing the same thing for years, and I think it helps people get a good idea of what they are actually watching.
I know this video is old but I do have some experience with mirror finishing. I am guessing that you have probably figured quite a bit out by now but just in case I will offer some tips.
As you progress through the grits you want to alternate the scratch pattern, and do not move on to the next grit until you have completely removed any evidence of the previous pattern.
Some of your grit jumps were a little to large, i am guessing this was due to the availability of belts on hand, in the future I would try to progress through the grits more evenly.
If a true mirror polish is desired it may even benefit you to at the bare minimum clean the surface of the part between grits to avoid cross grit contamination. While this is a minor concern to some, the perfectionist will notice every scratch.
don't be afraid to take it to a buffing wheel with compounds after you are through with the belt progression. Just be sure to progress through the compounds in the same manner, using new wheels each time and avoiding contamination.
Hope some of this helps, I think the key point to take away here is alternating the scratch pattern.
yup
90 degree turns is one option, but I think the critical element is that when you are done with one pattern, you have eliminated any visible sign of the previous pattern. You may do a 90 degree cross with one pattern, then do a pattern that's a 30 degree cross at one of the 45 degree points until you can't see the evidence of the 90 degree cross, turn it 90 degrees to the crossing 45 degree point do another 30 degree pattern there until the pattern you had done in step 2 goes away, and for your fourth pattern go back to your 90 degree crosses.
You could set up a part holder on an arm, with pivot points at the 90 degree points to the belt travel, and two other pivot points at the 45 degree points to the belt travel, and work through each of the four points at each grit level.
Or if you're willing to pick up a kit for each grit, simply set up one pivot point at each tool, and work from tool to tool swinging within the working surface for each pivot point. (The arm for the part should give you better consistency with pressure at each tool as well, across the entire surface of the part, eliminating the rolling edge effect.)
Hi Eric, love to hear more on polishing, you definitely nailed it. John. C
Don’t have your work against your belt as it is slowing down.
Remove your work from the belt at its highest speed and then shut it down.
You can afford those extra few seconds of slowdown, they are far less expensive than a piece of work with odd abrasions on it.
i was planning to buy that machine as well .... but I decide to go with a real 2 X 72 belt grinder which I currently building
will love to see you built one as well
The American machines are so different to the English polishing lathes. We don't use polishing belts, we mainly use polishing mops, two types of compounds, the first compound would be to brake into the linishing lines and the second compound would be a white finish to shine the metal.
How the hell do you expect the face of your work to not be affected when you press it against the belt to stop it. Defeats the purpose of the finer grit belts.
To avoid imperfections, don't press the steel against the belt as it's slowing down.
+Luciano Romero Yes! I have noticed that using my angle grinder that the cuts get rougher when I release the trigger and keep it in contact with the steel. So the speed of the abrasive matters a lot... High speed will allow a smoother finish even when using a courser grit. The Pressure applied will also affect it. Lighter pressure also allows the abrasive to run faster than when using heavy pressure. Reducing the pressure at the end of the grinding operation can have an effect similar to changing to a finer grit. I have gotten some nice finishes using 40 grit flap wheels by using light pressure and high speed.
I was going to say that too. Slow speed makes deeper cuts.
Totally! And why he chose too hold the piece too be polished parallel going against the "grain" i dont know either
Just so you know you can get a much softer contact wheel to replace what comes with your sander.
Great video. Will definitely return for tips on grit sequencing as I won't remember this pat 10 min.
Nice! In regards to stopping the belt quickly, you may want to look into using a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive).It can stop the motor very quickly through dynamic braking. It would also give you the ability to adjust the speed. VFD's output 3 PH currents, however using just 2 of the three phases will give you conventional single phase that the machine requires.
It looks like a single phase motor so a VFD won't work unfortunately. It's not trivial to electrically brake that type of motor. There are devices that can do via DC injection braking but you may want to look at a mechanical solution instead.
To slow down the machine quicker - remove the rear guard over the belt wheel. When you switch off, use a bunched up piece of cloth to stop the wheel on the right. Saw this done by a guy in Aussie (UA-cam video - Blade sharpening using belts) It also makes belt changing much quicker.
Hi. I live in Perth WA and have one of these Multi Tools. Had it for at least 25 years, brilliant piece of kit.
You mentioned the small rubber wheel at the front of the machine that you are unhappy with. The one I have has a solid wheel (not grooved) which I find quite good. Thanks for the info on the "Scotch_brite" belt, haven't heard of it but it sounds like just what I need for polishing Aluminium. Good video.
Mike McMahon
CNC Beginner.
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Good video.
Trizacts are the best. There is also an A6. (their numbers go backward) for the finest finish.
Also, wear a respirator, you do NOT want to breathe that metal.
If the metal gets hot dip it in water to keep it cool to handle.
Stand to the side of the grinder, so you don't get hit if you lose the object you are grinding.
The grinder is the most dangerous machine in the shop.
Hi John. Recently found your video stash--cool! A couple guys mentioned magnets...For flat grinding knives, I use small handle magnets, with a thin microfiber cloth between. I grasp the cloth with the handle and it keeps the fingertips cool. I dip the piece in water, too, to judge heat/temp. The cloth also helps preserve the finish you already spent the time to make when tearing the magnet off. Also, to get things flat safely, have you tried standing off to the side of the belt? Might be safer in the event the piece takes off as well as to help you maintain an even grind. Thanks for sharing this--I've ordered from Trick Tools and had a positive experience, too.
You can recast the toothed wheel with urethane just to fill in the grooves, it will allow you to use the wheel for more grinding and polishing.
I just wrapped mine in a couple layers of electrical tape.. works great...
there are glass platens out there from corning type glass pretty flat . many folks affix them with JB weld and they are durable as well
After each grit change, change your piece direction pararlell one grit perpendicular the next grit back and forth.
Nice video. I go from 60 straight to 400 and then 800.. I also keep older broken down 800s that effectively work as a much finer grit. I'd guess about 1500.. Even experimented adding polishing compound on a really old belt before taking it to the polishing wheel
Definitely a decent DIY set up for the home shop.
I've found through personal experience, if you wish to slow your belt down as quick as possible, simply grab it with your hand and hold tight, the first few times it might feel a tad uncomfortable, but after you get the knack of it it's hardly even excruciating
You might consider carefully wiping down the part before going on to the next grit. You'll get a slightly improved finish and will avoid contaminating the finer grits with the coarser grits.
here a tip, to change the speed and able to brake, wire up a VFD to the motor of the bench grinder so you can change speed and brake fast
Enjoyed this video. It was interesting and informative but also very focused on process/method and application of tools and belts for desired results. It makes me want to buy the grinder attachment and start polishing some medieval crosses I made. I need to figure out how to polish the smaller groove areas. Will look for more of you videos and also check out the tool site.
That's a pretty cool grinder. It seems to have a lot of power. My only concern is the direction of rotation. If you lost control of a knife it could easily be thrown at you.
cflinger1979 valid concern
I think can mount it up verticle to access platen like a tower.
Awsome, as you mention that you want to slow it down, better with VFD. My fevorites are Emerson Commander SK series and Siemens Micromaster series. Emerson is super easy setup and Siemens super high frequency. Both can be use break function ( I think most of the VFDs do have that) most important is both are not expensive.
i have the multi tool/jet combo in my shop and use it to get a #4 finish on carbon steel, 304ss and 606x aluminum. the orientation can also be vertical and the non platten side can then be used for tube and round stock. agreed, the platten needs help- would be outstanding if you shared a retrofit design for a more stable platten... ;-) I would love a variable speed drive for this (would require 3~ or DC motor though). some cheaper non wovens (scotchbrite) breakdown at this surface speed if you get a little aggressive with the pressure. 5400 rpm is cooking. guy who called it a biter is right- I've given blood, esp after being on it for 5 or 6 straight hours. safety second, stay awake first! good for the price, trick tools did good by me too. A&H abrasives in WY good source for belts. thanks for the video
Another trick to doing something flat is holding the part on the platen first before turning it on, that way you don't accidentally hit an edge while trying to line it up flat to the platen
NYC CNC
yeah...definitely got to be a bit more careful but a firm grip on the part with very very light pressure against the belt to start, just enough to feel that your totally level. Came across this idea just recently from another knife maker, it has improved my "surface grinding" immensely :)
I buy 4x36 belts and split them in half. They are much easier to find. I don't to too much polishing though. Just rough grinding.
Sir,can I ask you? I have one of these ordered..Can I stand it up like a tower to use the Platen verticle? I want to grind hobby knife bevels without buying a 3k bader or $1200.00 KMG.....should be able to mount it up to use,right? I think manufacturer demo said yes but I have not seen anyone using for knives...
@@aldenunion I'm not sure. I suppose you could but the platen would be on the backside and the slackside of the belt would be on the front.
@@johncraik I recently learned just mount it on left side of grinder so switch is facing platen..Also learned methods for make shift work rest..
Tricktools.com has a stand pedistal that also flips 90degree angle and has work rest to use small wheel only with unit on side the belt grind is sideways but is another option......I have researched many methods that make these a great base to set up and make work for ANYTHING....The small wheel can even be upgraded to softer wheel with smaller grooves for more fine control..Excited for mail lady only running slow still from Xmas..Thanks for reply..Tim
I have two of those setups in my garage also from Eastwood an expander wheel which gives more options finishing metals. It's affordable and the expander belts seem to last a good while.
I'd say if you could slow it down using the higher grit you will get that shiny look
A good way to polish if you want a perfect flat surface without imperfections in to tape the sand pape to a large ground surface and hold it as steady as possible. I know it take more time but it help when flatness and parallelism is important. But hey I work as a toolmaker and we don't have to move fast.haha. But that why I love it. Have you ever had to hold tenths with your tormach. Just curius because I haven't heard much on there accuracy
I've been enjoying your videos for a while, and I've learned a lot. This is the first time I've seen one where I thought I could share something that would help you. :) I haven't read through the 99 other comments, though, so sorry if this has already been covered.
I'm building a 2x72 grinder of my own design (really a Frankenstein combination of other designs I've seen), and I arrived at this video after watching your one about removing mill scale, as I need to get the mill scale off of my steel before I weld because I want the welds to look great. Anyway, I've been studying A LOT about these things. Quite frankly I can't believe you aren't building your own. You have a plasma CNC and you know how to lay it out yourself. There are a number of sets of free plans online. The EERF ("free" backward, designed to be made from scraps laying around), which I've seen on several sites, is the main basis for my design. Get a 2HP 3-phase motor from ebay and a cheap Variable Frequency Drive (VFD), also widely available online, to convert from single phase and you can control the speed without changing belts. If you're patient and diligent you can get both for about $100. If you're in a hurry you could do it for $200-250. Many of the designs are even specifically "no-weld" designs (I haven't seen you weld, so I don't know if that's part of your capabilities). Anyway, I'll bet with your resources and skills you could make a killer 2x72, even turning your own wheels.
I'm going to do a couple of build videos of mine (I'm almost done sourcing everything). I'll try to remember to share a link when I get them up so you can watch and think, "Man, I could do that!"
The other thing is that you should probably get some better belts. Aluminum Oxide is great for woodworking, but it wears out very quickly with steel. Pick up some ceramic belts and make something awesome. :)
Ha ha! I wrote that before I had finished your video. You already know about the belts. :)
It would help if there was a stop built into where the belt goes back in to the main wheel to help avoid parts slipping and getting sucked in. I got a 6x48 belt sander and I can't count how many projectiles I've launched into my wall lol.
I always get the smoothest finish when I ease the pressure while lifting the work piece. Wouldn't pushing hard against a slow going belt do the opposite to the finish?
old video but to reduce speed i recommend a light dimmer between grinder and output to control speed
Need to make a magnetic Handel to attach small parts to when working with this setup. Would get better control and fingers would be clear of belt.
I would really appreciate a video on bruising curved bands of stainless steel.
Yes, he could curve them around your ass as he gives you a beating with them.
I enjoyed your video before I bought my 2X72 wilmont I used a 1X42 myself and this attachment is great.
Yes indeed. Keep up the great videos, I wish I had time to pick the camera up, its been a couple years.
You could make a 2x72 for $400 or even less but I can see how it could really help someone just getting started
Try Brasso as the last abrasive on a cloth belt, it seems to be ultra fine 8000 to 10000 grit.
a mounting attachment to turn the belt vertical would be handy. then a small table to prevent the work from going too far. nice video , thanks for sharing it.
Check out tilting stand and workrest on multitoolgrinders.com
@@multitoolgrinders Does this not mount also vertically up amd down?
@@aldenunion Yes it does. It is a very easy and quick adjustment to change the attachment from the vertical to horizontal position. Also the Multitool Grinders attachments can be installed on the RH & LH side of grinder motors, so you could have an attachment mounted in both positions.
www.multitoolgrinders.com
@@multitoolgrinders Oh!!!! So the platen will face switch after all?? Great!!!...
All these people bragging the baders and big money machines while I lost my finger prints the ole fashioned way and need a new vehicle.lol...I know I can make this do the same work with enginuity..
"Where there is a will ---there is a way.""...
@@multitoolgrinders Sir,Can I ask one more question? I already purchased one from your shop on ebay (Just bought today so mail waiting)⁹ ..I wondered,when mounting verticle,the black shroud,must that be removed for good? Would figure debre would accumulate in the shroud that may cause grit contamination or effect with build up as it would need to be opened in up direction as a catch container..What is SOP for such a set up? I noticed all the tricks for tracking etc...So much information that I feel I have used it already for years.lol..Regards,Tim
Just found your channel. Can't believe I had missed it this long. Love the videos. I make custom furniture and lighting, so welding/machining/metal work is my interest.
:) Just getting things moving, but I do have a FB page up.
facebook.com/woodandweld
Cool attachment
Nice grinder mod BTW - looks extremely usable :)
This guy is a fantastic host!
My finger tips would be mad at me if buy this.
Thinking could small magnet with an on and off switch help?🤔
Try it, use a welder triangle magnet they have them with an on and off switch and see if they work for your small parts on the grinder. Or custom magnet . Let me know
Pretty awesome, first time I have seen such a tool. Can this Multi Tool be attached to a 8 inch Delta grinder. Did you do the assembly or did it come as shown ? Great presentation by the way, clear and concise. Bet the company appreciates this video ;) I guess the add ons add up quick.
Yes the Multitool Grinders attachments will convert any name brand bench grinder to a belt grinder. multitoolgrinders.com
@@multitoolgrinders Sir,I just purchased one of your attachments for knife making on hobby level.
Said can mount it vertical so platen can be up and down to grind knife bevel\plungeline...I wish was demo with set up as that..You would sell so many more of these as many people wasting money on junk because 2x72 so much more dough..Hope it works for me..Waiting for mail lady.lol..
@@aldenunion its incredibly easy to convert the attachment from a horizontal position to a vertical position. There are three nuts on the outside of the main bracket, loosen the nuts, rotate into position desired, retighten. Its that easy and only takes about 30 seconds!
Thanks for the heads up on content you would like to see. I will put it on our future film request.
www.multitoolgrinders.com
180, 220, buffing wheel w/compound, then clean buffing wheel. that'll bring the highest mirror finish
aaronmpeters26 then 9µm and 3 diamon suspension polish
Looking to fix a scratch on a Brush STainless refrigerator door. Lots of good ideas just have to fit them to an angle grinder or something like that
Be carefull though, too much heat and the stainless will buckle and you will essentually end up with a dent. Do it bu hand with Scotch bright and kerosine.
No just hand polish with 600 wet or dry on a block go in one straitened direction for a uniformed brushed look lol
For very good belts at a good price try klingspor. The have almost any belt you could imagine.
Hey, thanks for the nice overview. I’m looking for something like this as a home hobbiest, possible to sharpen knives or at least get close enough for low-medium quality ones before putting on the whetstones. Are you still using this? Any updates after 6 or 7 years of use? Would you still recommend it? I’m thinking of putting it on a delta 8” vs grinder...
Great video. I have a question. Do all of these belts make the grinding wheel on the other side obsolete or what is it's role in all of this now?
I would say yes. With all the variation of abrasives you can purchase these days, you can truly tailor your abrasive to your job.
Test a leatherstrap with a metal polish as the last step. I used it on my knife grinder. And it relly kick that shine into it. =)
I like the idea of the attachment. However, I feel that it is rather dangerous since the direction of rotation is wrong and it should be away from the user. Otherwise, 2 things can happen, (a) the sparks will be 'sprayed' to the user, & (b) a slip of the work piece will fling it directly to the user......Thanks anyway for the video.
For the price they want for that, the small wheel and platen should not need replacing!
Love the grinder. Online it looks like is has a disk sander on the side, but yours doesn't. Comment
Just did not add the plate on drum to add such attachment..Can view nut for safety check..
These attachments are expensive in UK even on the Bay.. Looks like I'll have to buy a parkside bench belt sander...
I was thinking if you could hook that up to a dust collector to contain the mess, but sparks, lots of air and dust, perhaps not a good idea.
Get a magnet to hold you part while your grinding it.
Looks nice but the first major no no I see and probably wouldn't use building knives for is that it spins the object towards your body it should be reversed so if it slipped it would shoot to the back not to your chest or face
Now if u could have it pointing up then that'd be different. seems like that's how it'd be anyway
You are correct, the travel direction and the drive assembly elevation is a cause of concern. Projectiles are heading right at the operator's face. You can even see the sparks going right towards the operator. Not good nor safe. The operator needs to reverse the motor rotation if not install a reverse switch to help accommodate different locations of the operator.
It is all about the configuration or the adjustment of the angle, while setting down and having the belt traveling downward - the manufactured is thinking that the operator would be standing not setting. Grinding would be the same and would default in the same direction.
Hey it's been 8 years. Still use this thing? How has it held up?
looking forward to the saw project :)
:)
Have you tried using a polishing compound at the final stage ? I haven't myself, just thought it might mirror even better ??
Not to nitpick, but wouldn't it be easier to give it a quick go on the surface grinder, then use the polishing belt?
Ah.
I was thinking though, if you had a bunch of pars to do, putting them on the mag chuck once or twice would be faster than hand sanding them.
Plus the grinder is semi-auto. :)
Ooooohhh. Good to know.
Total newbie here... Once you get to the brushed steel or mirror finish you want, is there a way to seal, shellac, weatherproof the metal to maintain the shine outdoors in all the weather?
Cool tool. Does the metal heat up at all? I would think heat would come into play very quickly with that method of polishing. I always polish by hand with a dremel, but as soon as the piece starts to get hot, it can ruin pretty fast...
Hold it with a piece of leather a dremel is a toy compared to this tool and it goes too fast bunting compound for a half assed shine
What is the advantage of a small width belt sander over my 4 inch stationary industrial belt sander used along with a series of buffing grits on my buffing machine? I am simply curious to know from the experienced metal guys what is the hub, bub? Thanks for this great vid! BillS.
The advantage is: 1 or 2 inch belts are cheaper and you have a better selection of belt finishes for working on edge tools. Secondly, most high end 4-inch belt sanders do not have the option of variable speed nor is there any contour rollers. Roller options are many in size and surface types in the 1 and 2 in belt grinders, whereas 4-inch belt grinder (sanders) rollers are fixed.
could you just turn a belt inside out for a quick run to flatten the platten?
How to polish aluminum plates?? How to give mirror finish? Please tell me solutiob
Can you do this process by hand? and with JUST a bench grinder? No belt machine
I went to trick tools. I did not see your set up. I found the grinder but not the attachment that you are using for the belt. Any way you can steer me in the right direction Thanks
We offer multiple size attachments to convert your stone grinder to a belt grinder. check out multitoolgrinders.com
Without all this time you can make it easy with basic things
I'd like to know if the overall thickness reduced after grinding. Did you check with any gauge?
Amazing
But now how you kip it like that without letting it get rusty ? What to put on top of it ?
Thanks
shouldn't be the platen is no gap with the sander ???
Good video. Would you go with this or complete multi-colored. Thank you
John didn't know you were market for a belt grinder. I drew cad data for a 72" disk combo, i would have sent you a step file make your own..
Sure dont pass it around you can have it for free.
Aluminum oxide belts are waste of money for grinding metal. For you it propably doesn´t matter but they get dull really fast and than they get your metal REALLY hot REALLY fast
LE-Handmade knives which belts are better?
Thanks
Hello , i`m from small company where our manufactory must grind and polish a small metal parts (handle for keys ) , this are small rectangles whit size 30x60 mm the thickness is 10 mm , so our problem is we grind them and polish them all week (around 500 handles) , and its happend too slow , do you have any idea or hacks how we could do it more faster , any technick or machines ? ps. we polish only the thickness zone the 10 mm , the edges we don`t need to clean the faces of the handles.
Can you see machine marks on your mirror finish steel blank? Thanks.
trizact go down to a4 which is 2000# or try an old belt turned inside out so the abrasive side is on the inside a tube company i went to in birmingham had a ten headed loser centerless polisher and the belt sequence went down through the range this was before the days of trizact and on the last head they used a old belt reversed which would just burnish the surface to improve the optical apperance
I'd buy that rig in a heartbeat if I knew a practical way to slow it down.
what is the price of this grinder machine in Indian rupees and also belt number 100 to 800 what'is the price of 8 belts in Indian rupees