I am running through this same issue right now and have replaced two valves because it would not close, going to replace the board after watching your video. thanks bro! lets see
Found this video while waiting on hold for heatcraft tech support. Having the same exact issue. Swapped the board, valve, and eev motor. We've swapped out eev motors and boards on multiple units.
After this video it's been working, so far only 1 out of 3 units we installed did this. It was so frustrating tho. And I've heard the same from others.
@@ReliableHVACR On this one the eev and board were bad. But during troubleshooting I rotated the plug for the eev motor and connected the terminals incorrectly. This causes the motor to run backwards or inconsistent operation. I chased my tail for a few hours but I'll own my mistake.
Comments from Heatcraft training today... #1 problem is not setting tap on transformer to 208 volts if that is your supplied voltage. EEV valves themselves are pretty simple and bulletproof IF system is clean and tight and assembled while purging nitrogen. Powerhead coil failure possible but more likely GIGO info failure or bad board.
I had someone from heat craft reach out but nothing came from it. Makes sense but I installed these myself since they were new to us. Used nitro ever time and protected valve. And we ran a new breaker & line, ours were 115v . But yes I realized it was the board and not the eev , I'm just not sure how to test them. When you run it in test mode of course it gives you all the proper readings. But it isn't sending out signal during normal operation. I figured I'd try a new board since they had sent one just in case and that was it.
I know on the Ruud EEV's you can check the resistance on the motor, and they should all be just about the same resistance. If one or more are reading a large variance the EEV motor is considered bad. As far as testing if a board is bad, as far a I know, the only way to check is to: 1- find out what is not working 2- know the units sequence of operations 3- verify every sequence is operating within parameters 4- Once every sequence has verified your left with a bad board xD PCB's are wayyyyy to difficult to troubleshoot. Too much circuitry on too many plains.
If you do a lot of eev buy the Sporlan Sma-12 valve actuator. It’s battery powered and you can drive the valve open and closed manually. It has saved me on a beacon 2 system before. I proved to Heatcraft that the valve was bad. Look into it.
@@ReliableHVACR these are good systems when installed correct. You did everything possible and still got a bad apple but don’t loose faith in it. The future is eev units.
Yeah the way I see it is I'm just more comfortable going forward. They are really simple to install and I enjoyed that part. I'll know a little more for next time if issues come up 👍🏽
Sometimes these things get into a funky lock up thing. This worked for me. Disconnect the 24 volts at the transformer and then restore it. Do this about 25 times for about a minute, then cycle all power off and give it a try. These are 0-5 volt DC bipolar expansion valves meaning it needs 5 volts + to open all the way and 5 volts - to close. The board is supposed to remember the last position the valve was at when it turned off, so that's what it will open to even thou it may say differently. What I do know if you over cycle the board power (many times) it makes it get stupid and go back to the default setting. These valves have no feed back to the board telling it where it is and I think the board gets confused as to where it should be and does nothing or drives it all the way open. I have found this problem on high load systems where defrost is used a lot. This doesn't fix the problem but is a work around in the rare situation it does this. This should force the valve to close.
We must have got some of those bad apples in Hawaii. Lol. What we finally did out of a combination of frustration and had to get it working. We did away with the board and eev and converted it back to mechanical again.
I've been in the business since the 70's. Electronic stuff is sweet . . . when it works. When it doesn't work, you can't just jumper something or slap in a substitute. And when tech support can't help you, that's the worst. I can't understand why these companies don't train their tech support people better. Don't they realize that we mechanics are on the front line, and our customers trust us? If they support us, we tell our customers how good their equipment is, and it leads to more sales for them. But if we tell our customers not to buy something, they trust us, and they're not going to buy it.
you might want to check the charge ,it sounds like the by pass is opening,not enough liquid,if it does it again,might want to add refrigerant.valve wide open and not freezing the lines ?
@@ReliableHVACR Stock coil will do it. You can also check the new valve before install by blowing through it to see if it seats completely when turned counter clockwise. One full rotation is approximately 60 steps. Of course turning it clockwise will open the valve and it should only take 5 full rotations.
Man some calls can be such a pain, thats a difficult one to pin point the primary issue. You did your checks I probably would have came to the same conclusion lol but good job man 👍dope video
When eevs are motorized then when they stick they leave the refrigerant through at percentange of the position they stopped. If they are pulsed they close completly like a solenoid valve. Hope that helps
I had same problem with heat craft beacon2 EEV valve. It was failing to open valve. I did replace EEV coil but nothing helped. Next day I went to change valve and found from there employees that it just started working 45 minutes ago. I still not understand how it started working after 13 to 15 hours later. It’s been four months it is still working.
I've tried calling and I didn't get a straight answer unfortunately, for me the board was faulty even tho the test mode was showing good. I think with these it's usually a control issue not the valves.
That's my client too, just had a nitmare with a freezer, first valve, they factory said bad valve again stuck open, voltage looked good, ended up doing board and it worked even with factory saying board good, crazy
I haven't had to use it but my supplier sold me a magnet by Carel I think. It's tiny compared to your solenoid magnet and it has some writing on there for quarter turn half turn for opening and closing those eevs.
I need to order some, I wish I had one for this. Customer buys the equipment from up North. Our suppliers don't really have this equipment or tools locally yet
Got a ? Maybe u can help or someone here The other day i came walk in cooler 44 degrees wont go anylower After 2 days coil completely freezes up Its running 448a system is 9500 btu I defrost the unit Start it up Its set at 7 superheat My monitor showing me 7 Sup I put my digital gages sup matched suction line temp matched to what board reading exv does pump down and opens up no problem. At 43 degrees its starts to freeze up To test i set it at 44 and runs ok no freezing Oh did i mention 152 steps valve doing. Checked the pressure hi low side evrything looks good but the damn thing wont go below 43. Theck support trying to tell me tge unit undersized for the cooler box.
Washington state prison at WCCW they have replaced after4 months one eev one board a box sensor starting components on the compressor now this morning it’s short cycling and high humidity in this cooler these units are fucked
@@ReliableHVACR all our new installs are these things. Some bad boards on start up. Coils unusually ohm out with in spec the valve itself should never really “malfunction” but restriction in the mesh screen yes that will breakdown and mess up the mechanics in the valve. Other then that 9/10 times it’s the board wether you catch it act up is the issue could take multiple trips but you did everything perfect lean on the factory if need be they design it they should know what’s going on right? Lol great video.
I am a Bohn distributor and we have been through this same scenario many times. Heatcraft needs to get this straightened out soon!
I have heard from so many techs about these issues 😂 not comforting
I am running through this same issue right now and have replaced two valves because it would not close, going to replace the board after watching your video. thanks bro! lets see
Found this video while waiting on hold for heatcraft tech support. Having the same exact issue. Swapped the board, valve, and eev motor. We've swapped out eev motors and boards on multiple units.
After this video it's been working, so far only 1 out of 3 units we installed did this. It was so frustrating tho. And I've heard the same from others.
@@ReliableHVACR
On this one the eev and board were bad. But during troubleshooting I rotated the plug for the eev motor and connected the terminals incorrectly. This causes the motor to run backwards or inconsistent operation. I chased my tail for a few hours but I'll own my mistake.
Comments from Heatcraft training today... #1 problem is not setting tap on transformer to 208 volts if that is your supplied voltage.
EEV valves themselves are pretty simple and bulletproof IF system is clean and tight and assembled while purging nitrogen. Powerhead coil failure possible but more likely GIGO info failure or bad board.
I had someone from heat craft reach out but nothing came from it.
Makes sense but I installed these myself since they were new to us. Used nitro ever time and protected valve. And we ran a new breaker & line, ours were 115v .
But yes I realized it was the board and not the eev , I'm just not sure how to test them. When you run it in test mode of course it gives you all the proper readings. But it isn't sending out signal during normal operation. I figured I'd try a new board since they had sent one just in case and that was it.
I know on the Ruud EEV's you can check the resistance on the motor, and they should all be just about the same resistance. If one or more are reading a large variance the EEV motor is considered bad.
As far as testing if a board is bad, as far a I know, the only way to check is to:
1- find out what is not working
2- know the units sequence of operations
3- verify every sequence is operating within parameters
4- Once every sequence has verified your left with a bad board xD
PCB's are wayyyyy to difficult to troubleshoot. Too much circuitry on too many plains.
If you do a lot of eev buy the Sporlan Sma-12 valve actuator. It’s battery powered and you can drive the valve open and closed manually. It has saved me on a beacon 2 system before. I proved to Heatcraft that the valve was bad. Look into it.
Yeah I need to invest in some tools for these
@@ReliableHVACR these are good systems when installed correct. You did everything possible and still got a bad apple but don’t loose faith in it. The future is eev units.
Yeah the way I see it is I'm just more comfortable going forward. They are really simple to install and I enjoyed that part. I'll know a little more for next time if issues come up 👍🏽
A little late to the party but if you watched the video that was a Carrell EXV. A sporlan SMA-12 would be useless. They use a magnetic tool
Sometimes these things get into a funky lock up thing. This worked for me. Disconnect the 24 volts at the transformer and then restore it. Do this about 25 times for about a minute, then cycle all power off and give it a try. These are 0-5 volt DC bipolar expansion valves meaning it needs 5 volts + to open all the way and 5 volts - to close. The board is supposed to remember the last position the valve was at when it turned off, so that's what it will open to even thou it may say differently. What I do know if you over cycle the board power (many times) it makes it get stupid and go back to the default setting. These valves have no feed back to the board telling it where it is and I think the board gets confused as to where it should be and does nothing or drives it all the way open. I have found this problem on high load systems where defrost is used a lot. This doesn't fix the problem but is a work around in the rare situation it does this. This should force the valve to close.
We must have got some of those bad apples in Hawaii. Lol.
What we finally did out of a combination of frustration and had to get it working. We did away with the board and eev and converted it back to mechanical again.
I was close to doing that, I still prefer mechanical
I've been in the business since the 70's. Electronic stuff is sweet . . . when it works. When it doesn't work, you can't just jumper something or slap in a substitute. And when tech support can't help you, that's the worst. I can't understand why these companies don't train their tech support people better. Don't they realize that we mechanics are on the front line, and our customers trust us? If they support us, we tell our customers how good their equipment is, and it leads to more sales for them. But if we tell our customers not to buy something, they trust us, and they're not going to buy it.
Exactly, I hate when my hands are tied but what can you do. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽
you might want to check the charge ,it sounds like the by pass is opening,not enough liquid,if it does it again,might want to add refrigerant.valve wide open and not freezing the lines ?
I just emailed you and this video answered my questions I sent you.
You can close it manually by rotating the coil on the valve counter clockwise.
I thought you needed a special carel magnet tool to do that, been meaning to order one.
@@ReliableHVACR Stock coil will do it. You can also check the new valve before install by blowing through it to see if it seats completely when turned counter clockwise. One full rotation is approximately 60 steps. Of course turning it clockwise will open the valve and it should only take 5 full rotations.
Good to know. Thanks for the info
I'm going through something very similar after various power outages
It’s stuff like that that makes me spit blood.
Man some calls can be such a pain, thats a difficult one to pin point the primary issue. You did your checks I probably would have came to the same conclusion lol but good job man 👍dope video
Thanks man
When eevs are motorized then when they stick they leave the refrigerant through at percentange of the position they stopped. If they are pulsed they close completly like a solenoid valve. Hope that helps
I had same problem with heat craft beacon2 EEV valve. It was failing to open valve. I did replace EEV coil but nothing helped. Next day I went to change valve and found from there employees that it just started working 45 minutes ago. I still not understand how it started working after 13 to 15 hours later. It’s been four months it is still working.
I've tried calling and I didn't get a straight answer unfortunately, for me the board was faulty even tho the test mode was showing good. I think with these it's usually a control issue not the valves.
That's my client too, just had a nitmare with a freezer, first valve, they factory said bad valve again stuck open, voltage looked good, ended up doing board and it worked even with factory saying board good, crazy
Wow same exact then 😂
I haven't had to use it but my supplier sold me a magnet by Carel I think. It's tiny compared to your solenoid magnet and it has some writing on there for quarter turn half turn for opening and closing those eevs.
I need to order some, I wish I had one for this. Customer buys the equipment from up North. Our suppliers don't really have this equipment or tools locally yet
Got a ? Maybe u can help or someone here
The other day i came walk in cooler 44 degrees wont go anylower After 2 days coil completely freezes up
Its running 448a system is 9500 btu
I defrost the unit
Start it up
Its set at 7 superheat
My monitor showing me 7
Sup
I put my digital gages sup matched suction line temp matched to what board
reading exv does pump down and opens up no problem. At 43 degrees its starts to freeze up
To test i set it at 44 and runs ok no freezing
Oh did i mention 152 steps valve doing.
Checked the pressure hi low side evrything looks good but the damn thing wont go below 43. Theck support trying to tell me tge unit undersized for the cooler box.
If it’s board hopefully the fixed the issue.
Man this was totally me. Wish I had seen this video before I lived it lmao
Hvacr Survival had issues with that same control.
It’s happened to me with these shitty exv’s, had to replace one twice on the same evap for it too finally work
Yank it out make mechanical install a a421 with defrost and go to go
When the new stuff fails…..A421 a solenoid and be done with it.
Only time I work with stepper motors in the grocery stores are for EEPR on the racks.
Washington state prison at WCCW they have replaced after4 months one eev one board a box sensor starting components on the compressor now this morning it’s short cycling and high humidity in this cooler these units are fucked
Ouch 😬
installing my first one Tue. Sure hope I dont run into this mess.
Well at least you have a heads up 😅, they are super simple to install which I love but so far only this one out of 4 or 5 has given me problems.
👍
Give me old school controls, electronics are wonderful if the planets align. Majority of tech support tells you nothing, most speak like politicians.
Junk product I have the same problem
Firts time working on these hate it im an old school
And the price is for these parts oh my
Been having a bunch of bad boards lately
They want us to install more so we'll see what our luck is
@@ReliableHVACR all our new installs are these things. Some bad boards on start up. Coils unusually ohm out with in spec the valve itself should never really “malfunction” but restriction in the mesh screen yes that will breakdown and mess up the mechanics in the valve. Other then that 9/10 times it’s the board wether you catch it act up is the issue could take multiple trips but you did everything perfect lean on the factory if need be they design it they should know what’s going on right? Lol great video.
Nitro and vacuums are over-rated😅😅😅
a few bad apples lol a pain in the ass I guess