I just started my first resto attempt on a slave 1 because of your videos. If it goes well I'll try some of the more complex ones I have. Love the videos!
What’s funny for me is this is the last one I’m restoring. I’ve done all the other ships and walkers and now I’m finally on the easier one. Those guns are a tricky one though to avoid breaking the tabs. I’m waiting for my parts to dry as we speak and I’m looking to see if I have any rubbing compound already in my garage. I’m wondering if colgate toothpaste will help with this as it works to bring back yellowed headlights but is less abrasive than the headlight restore compounds they sell in stores.
it's amazing what kind of emotional and sentimental hold these moulded pieces of cheap plastic have over some of us. just listening to the sound of the plastic as it's being handled takes me back....
Morley Robertson at the time we, or at least i, didn't think of these trivial sensory perceptions as having a long-term affect. of course, these are influences that can only be felt after time. for me, that time has taken 35+ years.
I agree, and I re-live those moments every time I watch my sons on their birthdays and on Christmas morning, as well as every time we manage to get another vintage piece for our collection. We may grow old, but we never have to grow up.
I just restored a Slave 1, and when it cam to the cockpit canopy, I wet-sanded out all the scratches with sandpaper, starting with 1000 grit all the way to 12000 grit. I finished it by buffing it with toothpaste. It looks brand new. All of the scratches, including the major ones, are completely gone. Altogether it only took about 20 minutes or so.
@@toypolloi huh. I cleaned 40 year old sticker residue off a Slave 1 and Vader TIE yesterday and not a blemish on either. Maybe they make magic erasers differently in the UK? BTW your video was very helpful 🙂 thanks!
You can't beat a bit of kitchen sink tv! That T-cut was inspired stuff and the end result is amazing, well done. Slave 1 was my very first ship and taking the wings off and on was great exercise as a kid.
Okay, I was not brave enough to take the handle part off but everything else went good. Now with this slave plane most if not all of the stickers popped off when touched with that happening what product is good to put them on with. great video as always, thanks Em
You must have quite a lot of spare regular (common, easy to find) parts. Do you keep all of those stored? Also, good job with the T-cut. I was about to ask if you had thought on a solution for scrach marks, just before you showed it. :D Not to be "that" guy, but the stickers look like they're lacking a bit of contrast. That's probably because of the inkjet printer you're using, but have you thought on making the blacks darker? That could help.
I have a fair amount of spare parts. I try to swap them with other people to get parts for my current projects and also help them finish o projects they are working on. My printer isn't that great. It does and OK job. If I had the money I would buy a better one. But this is enough to get the ships looking good and help give other people ideas in how to restore.
I found a slave one in my loft the other day , covered in dust inside & out . Just took it apart , cleaned it up and put it back together ........... Yep , One screw left over lol. Should of watched this first not after 8(
I picked up an incomplete beater Slave1 that I'm attempting to bring back to life. I just got a side hatch for it. Upon installation, the hatchet wasn't squaring up properly revealing that the tail of the ship has a twist to it. Presumably from a combination of improper storage and heat exposure. I'm thinking of using heat to assist in reversal of the twist, similar to using hot water on a figure with bent legs to straighten them; however, I also need a way to position the tail in its proper spot so it retakes its proper form. Has anyone ran into this problem? If so, solution? Thanks for the videos, they've been most helpful!
Hi Dave, I was recently given a vintage Slave 1 with a missing ramp. As you know the replacement ramps are selling at ridiculous prices on Ebay, do you have any suggestions on how I can cover the ramp opening with something else other than the original ramp? I would like to cover it up neatly for display purposes...
Hello Toy Polloi, another great video for restoration with a great finished Ship 😊👍 My question, did you use dashbord cleaner, siliconspray or something after cleaning to protect the plastic from yellowing and given the plastic a better structur? Hope you unterstand, i dont know the english word, in Germany we call them, what goes out of the plastic "Weichmacher". Its the cause, when in years the plastic lose this, the plastic US mit so shiny and can broke easylier. And with Spray or something you can protect it, like the dashbord in cars. Did you use this? Greeting from Germany Thomas
Hi, I'm restoring a Slave 1, and will need to put repro stickers on it (pre-made vinyl ones off eBay). But what I want to do is make them look aged and a bit faded. Do you have any tips? Thanks.
+Jon Mills You can get a scan of the stickers from Erik Stormtroopers site rather than paying for some of eBay. Then you can print loads and try ageing them. It all depends on how they were printed as to how to age them. So unknown until then.
Are parts like the trigger available as 3D printing schematics on the web? Or is it a cardinal sin to make pieces, even though they wouldn't really be seen? :)
Essential Saturday viewing. Great job.
Toy Polloi is a genius nice guy and deserves UA-cam attention & love
Thanks!
I just started my first resto attempt on a slave 1 because of your videos. If it goes well I'll try some of the more complex ones I have. Love the videos!
What’s funny for me is this is the last one I’m restoring. I’ve done all the other ships and walkers and now I’m finally on the easier one. Those guns are a tricky one though to avoid breaking the tabs. I’m waiting for my parts to dry as we speak and I’m looking to see if I have any rubbing compound already in my garage. I’m wondering if colgate toothpaste will help with this as it works to bring back yellowed headlights but is less abrasive than the headlight restore compounds they sell in stores.
it's amazing what kind of emotional and sentimental hold these moulded pieces of cheap plastic have over some of us. just listening to the sound of the plastic as it's being handled takes me back....
I don't think you ever get over those sort of sounds and smells.
The smell of vinyl still brings back memories of opening Star Wars and (Mego) superhero action figures at Christmas when I was a kid!
Morley Robertson at the time we, or at least i, didn't think of these trivial sensory perceptions as having a long-term affect. of course, these are influences that can only be felt after time. for me, that time has taken 35+ years.
I agree, and I re-live those moments every time I watch my sons on their birthdays and on Christmas morning, as well as every time we manage to get another vintage piece for our collection. We may grow old, but we never have to grow up.
I find your restoration videos very helpful! I just restored my first Slave 1 following your video and it came out great. Thanks!
I just restored a Slave 1, and when it cam to the cockpit canopy, I wet-sanded out all the scratches with sandpaper, starting with 1000 grit all the way to 12000 grit. I finished it by buffing it with toothpaste. It looks brand new. All of the scratches, including the major ones, are completely gone. Altogether it only took about 20 minutes or so.
I bought a disk off eBay with all the original scans of stickers and instruction sheets. Very useful to have when restoring vehicles.
It's so cool to see the transformations
Brasso also works wonders when polishing plastic. Great job Mr.Polloi!
+Scott McFall I find brasso a bit too abrassive myself. T-cut is a bit gentler. But thanks for the tip. Keep on posting them.
I think a mix of both could be ideal. Brasso to get the heavy work done, with T-Cut to finish it off.
Thanks for all your work, by the way :)
Magic erasers work wonders for removing dried on sticker residue and other surface markings like smudges and ink.
I can't say I like them as they are abrasive and can scratch the plastic.
@@toypolloi huh. I cleaned 40 year old sticker residue off a Slave 1 and Vader TIE yesterday and not a blemish on either. Maybe they make magic erasers differently in the UK? BTW your video was very helpful 🙂 thanks!
I was gifted two huge boxes of vintage star wars toys I am excited to do some restorations
You are very lucky. Have fine restoring them. I think I have covered most of the common ships now. Or come and join my Facebook page. Cheers
great video - thanks for making and posting
that thing to remove scratches works magic!!!
Thanks for sharing!
I am definitely impressed very cool
+M.G.Villan Thanks. This one did come out well.
Great work as always.
You may need a video on how to restore the little clips for the guns in the front.
You can't beat a bit of kitchen sink tv!
That T-cut was inspired stuff and the end result is amazing, well done.
Slave 1 was my very first ship and taking the wings off and on was great exercise as a kid.
+kingshearer2 T-cut works really well on thi cockpit. I have not tried it on any others, but will do soon.
Wd-40 works great to for taking sticker goo off
Awesome
Okay, I was not brave enough to take the handle part off but everything else went good. Now with this slave plane most if not all of the stickers popped off when touched with that happening what product is good to put them on with. great video as always, thanks Em
I use Pritt Stick to reapply stickers.
You must have quite a lot of spare regular (common, easy to find) parts. Do you keep all of those stored?
Also, good job with the T-cut. I was about to ask if you had thought on a solution for scrach marks, just before you showed it. :D
Not to be "that" guy, but the stickers look like they're lacking a bit of contrast. That's probably because of the inkjet printer you're using, but have you thought on making the blacks darker? That could help.
I have a fair amount of spare parts. I try to swap them with other people to get parts for my current projects and also help them finish o projects they are working on. My printer isn't that great. It does and OK job. If I had the money I would buy a better one. But this is enough to get the ships looking good and help give other people ideas in how to restore.
I found a slave one in my loft the other day , covered in dust inside & out .
Just took it apart , cleaned it up and put it back together ........... Yep , One screw left over lol.
Should of watched this first not after 8(
I picked up an incomplete beater Slave1 that I'm attempting to bring back to life. I just got a side hatch for it. Upon installation, the hatchet wasn't squaring up properly revealing that the tail of the ship has a twist to it. Presumably from a combination of improper storage and heat exposure. I'm thinking of using heat to assist in reversal of the twist, similar to using hot water on a figure with bent legs to straighten them; however, I also need a way to position the tail in its proper spot so it retakes its proper form. Has anyone ran into this problem? If so, solution? Thanks for the videos, they've been most helpful!
you should do a can this be saved from the brocken slave 1 that you bought for extra parts :)
+Jordgubben What have you got left? I have two in peices still to find bits for and fix.
im not a big collector so i dont have a slave 1 but i just like to watch your videos :)
Toy Polloi but i would like to se a could this be saved :)
Hi Dave, I was recently given a vintage Slave 1 with a missing ramp. As you know the replacement ramps are selling at ridiculous prices on Ebay, do you have any suggestions on how I can cover the ramp opening with something else other than the original ramp? I would like to cover it up neatly for display purposes...
+J33 It's something I have been thinking on for a while. Nothing great yet. Will do a video once I have something.
Hello Toy Polloi,
another great video for restoration with a great finished Ship 😊👍
My question, did you use dashbord cleaner, siliconspray or something after cleaning to protect the plastic from yellowing and given the plastic a better structur? Hope you unterstand, i dont know the english word, in Germany we call them, what goes out of the plastic "Weichmacher".
Its the cause, when in years the plastic lose this, the plastic US mit so shiny and can broke easylier. And with Spray or something you can protect it, like the dashbord in cars.
Did you use this?
Greeting from Germany
Thomas
Hi, I'm restoring a Slave 1, and will need to put repro stickers on it (pre-made vinyl ones off eBay). But what I want to do is make them look aged and a bit faded. Do you have any tips? Thanks.
+Jon Mills You can get a scan of the stickers from Erik Stormtroopers site rather than paying for some of eBay. Then you can print loads and try ageing them. It all depends on how they were printed as to how to age them. So unknown until then.
OK, thanks for the info.
Are parts like the trigger available as 3D printing schematics on the web? Or is it a cardinal sin to make pieces, even though they wouldn't really be seen? :)
+Liofa Coudl be worth a try. This would be a fairly simple thing to make a CAD file for.
I got price tags on the window of motuc any ideas on how to get them off if I use lighter fluid will it discolor the window?
it should be fine. try it on one you are not worried about first.
Why were toys in the 80s predominately grey?
Hey Toy Polloi. Have you got any Vintage X wing Guns and Cockpit Glass? Trying to restore mine. We could trade?
+FearWolf AJ None at the moment. Just completed another x-wing restoration.
I never knew it came with a Han in Carbonite. They never list that one in the guides but mayhap it doesn't count as an action figure.
The Han figure with carbonite considers the carbonite an accessory and not a figure because it comes with a figure.
Will try this one next
I've got a custom Slave One 2 part video coming up in the next few weeks.