I've worked on cars and motorcycles most of my life, but as a relative newbie to working on bicycles over the last year, I must say your videos (and tools) have been absolute gold. Between getting some specialized tools and plenty of new techniques to learn and your instructional videos always get me squared away. Thank you so much Calvin!
@@elephantgrass631 Yeah I get it but it's a win-win for everyone. It's a really smart concept and over and over the how-to videos and the results have been more than worth the price of the tools I've bought. And unlike many other things they don't come across like an obnoxious sales pitch.
@@sidefx996 Well............... yeah........... it's Park Tool. These are product commercials on selling us a tool so it better be done right........ it's called marketing.
@@elephantgrass631 I get it as well, I hate the commercialization of life, but you can service or fix your bike with these very clear and useful videos and not have any park tools. You save money and time by doing it yourself and right!
I recently needed to take off my pedals from my tandem that had been on for years. I could not apply enough force to move them while holding back on the opposite pedal. The solution I found was to place a block of wood - a 2x4 about 6 inches long standing upright - under the opposite crank arm to prevent it from rotating. Then, on the pedal I wanted off, use a hammer to hit the 15mm box wrench I was using to turn it. The block of wood lets you whack the wrench as hard as you want - obviously, be careful. Once I did that I was able to remove all the pedals pretty easily.
Great guide!! As a total newbie at this here are my comments on what to do when installing pedals(i bought a 4800$ biscycle and had issues with this lol so i thought i´d share them with you) #1 OIL UP THE treads and "hole" and don´t be cheap on the oil!!! VERY important IMO. #2 USE A PROPER wrench, best would be a non-adjustable one. #3 Check for Left(L) and Right(R) on the pedals, as a novice i didn´t even think about this....this is obvious if you have done it once before but i seriously havn´t thought about this. Screw the pedals "towards the frontweel" when installing them. Basicly oil, a proper wrench and then check for left and right does it all.
I literally just ordered the park tool 15mm-9/16 wrench. When he mentions using a "crow's foot", I ran out to my garage and grabbed my crow's foot 15 mm and car brake tension wrench. Ta-Da, off comes the pedal!! I ran back in and canceled my amazon order. The brake tool crow's foot was thin enough to fit well on the pedal, the long handle of the tension wrench provided plenty of torque. Park tool I'm sorry you lost a sale, but thanks for the idea from the video. Ironically I've never used my brake tool for a brake job.
I watched this video just as I was about to give up on removing the pedals from my 3 year old gravel bike. It was very difficult, but the clear instructions helped immensely. Thank you!
Thanks I was going to pay someone to change my pedals but I have just done it. I’m a nurse in England and my bike was stolen in July but the police found it and it’s as if someone intentionally damaged the pedals and my leg keeps coming off so I needed to change it and thanks to your video I’ve done just that.
Thank you! I went from typical stock pedals to much fancier pedals that needed an Allen key for installing, and you helped me remove and install the new ones, perfectly! Had to really look for any markings that said R or L as turns out, that's very important for threading... mine were very small.
This is the only video that could help me to do this. I eventually had to put one foot on the opposite pedal, and one foot on the wrench (going to right direction) and use my body weight to get the first crank. Thanks!
You are the best! Thanks so much. For some reason, I’ve always confused this process. Your instruction is through, simple and clear. Finally got this simple task down!
Thanks! Worked on my 30 yr old Trek like a charm! This dimwitted bike DIY noob would've been fighting that R-L clockwise counter-clockwise thing for hours! New subscriber now.
Great series of videos. I thought I was going to have to resort to heating the crank, but its amazing what using the correct tools, and using them correctly, can do. Thanks guys.
@@sidefx996 No, it really doesn't make sense. I'll explain why: a rotating circle can be perceived as both "rotating away" or "rotating toward." If a person thinks you mean the bottom of the circle, the bottom of the circle will be moving the opposite direction to the top. So to make this instruction useful, you should refer to the portion of the circle you mean OR use even better terms, like clockwise or counterclockwise.
Thanks for this video- explained simply but with attention to detail. I have now used it a half dozen times so I could take my bike pedals with me on trips. Huge help!
Great video. I've been through multiple videos but none worked. This explained clearly on which side should the pressure be applied. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Thanks for this vid. The tip at the end re: breaking lose extra tight pedals worked great for me. My arms aren't quite as long as the mechanic in the vid so I held the off crank with one hand and applied pressure on the wrench with my foot. Solved my "stuck pedal" problem with no sweat.
Thanks for the great vid. Was busily cranking away---in the wrong direction---on my crescent wrench when it dawned on me something just MIGHT be amiss. This vid helped me save a very-soon-to-be significant mistake.
The only bit of info I was seeking, which he doesn’t mention explicitly, is the simple “right side is common thread direction” and therefore, the left side is where you have to be careful to turn OPPOSITE of common. It’s the only potential blunder if old pedals are frozen tight. Yes, he says it, but all that clockwise and counterclockwise which depends on view direction is confusing. Everything else in the video is just basic mechanical sensibilities.
just watched the vid again for pedal removal: 1. Get the "want to be" removed pedal behind (so the opposite pedal is in front) 2. Get the tool engaged, facing the front (paralel or almost paralel with the opposite crank). 3. Tool goes up, opposite crank pushed/footed down
Pedal threads should to be 'greased' completely. Applying the grease to only the pedal threads will result in almost nothing on the pedal starting threads and the last threads in the crank arm once the pedal is completely installed. Especially when new pedals are installed on a new crank arm. Grease should be applied to the pedal threads and to the starting threads of the crank arm. You don't have to coat all the crank arm threads. Just put in enough for the pedal threads to push the grease through and coat the crank arm pedal threads. This will result in an even coating on all the threads when you see some grease around the 15 mm wrench flats and some grease around the end of the pedal threads on the back side of the crank arm. Wipe's away the visible grease.
Easiest way to remember: Pull wrench back towards rear wheel on both sides, this way you will never confuse how to unscrew the pedals. Pull wrench forward towards front wheel to tighten. Boom.
@GrievedHymn Bike pedals and most bottom brackets on the left side threads are reverse from the right side in which your rule would not apply. IF you can successfully removed your left pedal by wrenching to the left, your bike was poorly made with two right side crank arms. I'm 68 and do know my ass from my elbow! :D !!!
So are the nuts and the washers INSIDE the pedal? Mine on my specialized are so bad the plastic pedal was cracked and broken on both and lifted right off with just removing the front nut,
The right pedal is right, or correct , the left is odd. Easy to remember now? Right means a right hand thread which is a regular thread you turn to the right to do it up or to make it tight. The left pedal has the odd back to front alternate left hand thread, turn right to un do or take out.
100% agree. You can simplify it even more. Just remember one side. I say “one side is WHACK!” and that’s all I need. When you consider that one side has the chain and chainring and gears, it can’t be whack. So the other side is whack. No left, no right, no clockwise, no counterclockwise, no tighten, no loosen, no consideration of crank arm rotation, etc, etc.
Point the respective pedal cranks to the ground. Put the wrench on or in with its handle facing the back wheel. Push down = push backwards. Works both sides. Kalvin’s leverage instructions are optimal, but if you get confused with the orientation, this technique can help you establish which direction is appropriate.
So how do you remove the entire pedal assembly. The threading on mine is fucked, i cant just screw the part your foot touches. I need to replace the entire "arm" too.
if the pedal on the crank side loosens just by the motion of pedaling or normal thread makes no since. Why wouldn't the crank side have a left thread so it actually tightens when pedaling. Anyway today I striped my left pedal and it won't even thread in now and tighten. Is there a thread adapter I can get that inserts
If there are no more threads in the crank there are people who sell helicoils for them. We offer taps to clean the threads but no Helicoils. The reason the pedals are threaded like this is because the ball bearings in the pedals reverse the rotational force.
Are the differences in the two types of pedals built into the pedals or the bike? i.e Can I take pedals that use an allen key and put them on a bike whose current pedals use a spanner?
My 2 Question Is Can I Use The Conventional 15mm wrench and One More Question Can You Tell Me which one The mm allen Key for the XC MTB pedals? Thank You
Many pedal wrench flats are narrow, and will not accept the wider open end 15mm wrenches. These need a pedal wrench. But if your wrench fits fully on the flats, it will do the job. For the hex fitting install at the end of the pedal thread, these vary by brand. 8mm is common but you also see 6mm.
I installed the pedals on my new bike a few months ago and everything runs well, except I keep finding small metal shards around the contact area between the pedals and the crankarms. It's like small chips of metal are coming out of the threaded hole of the crank arms. The pedals are not loose at all and the bike is running well. Any idea why this happens and is it normal? I did not apply any grease when installing the pedals.
It is common, and in that sense normal. The chips are likely from the pedal shaft digging into the face of the arm. A pedal washer between crank and pedal can help prevent this. The threads are not damaged by this, and the pedal stays tight if adequately torqued. These burrs however can be sharp, it is good to know them off with a small file or pick.
I got some cube all mountain pedals and I have a 9/16” and 15mm pedal wrench, both seem to be too big which doesn’t make sense, I’m about to throw this bike away and go back to skateboarding, shit shouldn’t be this difficult
It is common for pedal wrench flats to be undersized, which is not a good thing, just the way things are. Measure with a caliper and you can see this on many different brands. The pedal wrenches can deal with this, just don't over tighten.
Park Tool I think I need to get a bike stand soon, so I’m an idiot and the pedals were suppose to be applied with an Allen wrench, I didn’t put enough grease on I think but I took it to a bike shop, they got the pedals off, greased them really good and put them back on and they adjusted my front brake
I never knew the threads were reversed on one side, makes sense though after watching this. Had a bike given to me after it fell out of the back of a car and sheared the left crank right off, working on fixing it up, but the pedal felt 'gritty' like maybe the impact messed up the bearings. Just gonna replace both pedals, but I was wrenching on that left pedal for five minutes before I watched this and found out it's reverse thread...
He stopped that tire with his bare hand like a boss!
Except that the second time he did it he used the brake so maybe he didn’t like using his hand too much. 😝
Hands of steel ;)
@enriqueamaya3883 preaching to the choir brother
@enriqueamaya3883 and it's Jesus
@enriqueamaya3883Praise Jlesus.
This is Calvin Jones, park tool's chief mechanic, TOP MAN, FULLEST RESPECT CALVIN !.
I've worked on cars and motorcycles most of my life, but as a relative newbie to working on bicycles over the last year, I must say your videos (and tools) have been absolute gold. Between getting some specialized tools and plenty of new techniques to learn and your instructional videos always get me squared away. Thank you so much Calvin!
I agree, the Park Tool videos are great!
Well... yeah... it's Park Tool. These are product commercials on selling us a tool so it better be done right.
@@elephantgrass631 Yeah I get it but it's a win-win for everyone. It's a really smart concept and over and over the how-to videos and the results have been more than worth the price of the tools I've bought. And unlike many other things they don't come across like an obnoxious sales pitch.
@@sidefx996 Well............... yeah........... it's Park Tool. These are product commercials on selling us a tool so it better be done right........ it's called marketing.
@@elephantgrass631 I get it as well, I hate the commercialization of life, but you can service or fix your bike with these very clear and useful videos and not have any park tools. You save money and time by doing it yourself and right!
Straight to the point. Informative. Sufficiently detailed. Congrats on setting the gold standard for 'how to' videos.
I recently needed to take off my pedals from my tandem that had been on for years. I could not apply enough force to move them while holding back on the opposite pedal. The solution I found was to place a block of wood - a 2x4 about 6 inches long standing upright - under the opposite crank arm to prevent it from rotating. Then, on the pedal I wanted off, use a hammer to hit the 15mm box wrench I was using to turn it. The block of wood lets you whack the wrench as hard as you want - obviously, be careful. Once I did that I was able to remove all the pedals pretty easily.
Great guide!!
As a total newbie at this here are my comments on what to do when installing pedals(i bought a 4800$ biscycle and had issues with this lol so i thought i´d share them with you)
#1 OIL UP THE treads and "hole" and don´t be cheap on the oil!!! VERY important IMO.
#2 USE A PROPER wrench, best would be a non-adjustable one.
#3 Check for Left(L) and Right(R) on the pedals, as a novice i didn´t even think about this....this is obvious if you have done it once before but i seriously havn´t thought about this. Screw the pedals "towards the frontweel" when installing them.
Basicly oil, a proper wrench and then check for left and right does it all.
I literally just ordered the park tool 15mm-9/16 wrench. When he mentions using a "crow's foot", I ran out to my garage and grabbed my crow's foot 15 mm and car brake tension wrench. Ta-Da, off comes the pedal!! I ran back in and canceled my amazon order. The brake tool crow's foot was thin enough to fit well on the pedal, the long handle of the tension wrench provided plenty of torque. Park tool I'm sorry you lost a sale, but thanks for the idea from the video. Ironically I've never used my brake tool for a brake job.
R
Fuck of
I just did it with a regular 15mm wrench too
I watched this video just as I was about to give up on removing the pedals from my 3 year old gravel bike. It was very difficult, but the clear instructions helped immensely. Thank you!
Thank you again Park Tool, for helping me not make a costly mistake while maintaining my bike!
Wow, best bicycle tutorials I've seen on UA-cam - Kudos!
Thanks I was going to pay someone to change my pedals but I have just done it. I’m a nurse in England and my bike was stolen in July but the police found it and it’s as if someone intentionally damaged the pedals and my leg keeps coming off so I needed to change it and thanks to your video I’ve done just that.
This is such a great series presented by a great teacher. Thank you!
Watching this guy talk about pedals for no apparent reason. Almost like ASMR!
Thank you! I went from typical stock pedals to much fancier pedals that needed an Allen key for installing, and you helped me remove and install the new ones, perfectly!
Had to really look for any markings that said R or L as turns out, that's very important for threading... mine were very small.
Not only did I buy the Park Pedal Wrench.. I changed my pedals successfully!
I put some Bontrager mtb pedals on my bike versus the stock ones and now I’m ready to become pro! Thanks Park Tool!
This is the only video that could help me to do this. I eventually had to put one foot on the opposite pedal, and one foot on the wrench (going to right direction) and use my body weight to get the first crank. Thanks!
You are the best! Thanks so much. For some reason, I’ve always confused this process. Your instruction is through, simple and clear. Finally got this simple task down!
Thanks! Worked on my 30 yr old Trek like a charm! This dimwitted bike DIY noob would've been fighting that R-L clockwise counter-clockwise thing for hours! New subscriber now.
The mechanical advantage tip saved me a trip to the shop! I had a stubborn pedal and couldn’t get it off for ages…. Thank you!
Great series of videos. I thought I was going to have to resort to heating the crank, but its amazing what using the correct tools, and using them correctly, can do. Thanks guys.
Saved me from busting my hands more on trying to remove my pedals. Thanks!
lossen the pedal towards the rear wheel, install and rotate towards the front wheel..simple as that
+Miron Klescik Thank you! Always love easy ways to remember things like this.
Explanation: both pedals tighten as you pedal forward. One side is left handed as a safety feature.
@@sidefx996 No, it really doesn't make sense. I'll explain why: a rotating circle can be perceived as both "rotating away" or "rotating toward." If a person thinks you mean the bottom of the circle, the bottom of the circle will be moving the opposite direction to the top. So to make this instruction useful, you should refer to the portion of the circle you mean OR use even better terms, like clockwise or counterclockwise.
Mind blown 🤯 too easy
Just tried this and it works. This tip is more useful than his video because there's no waffle in it. Cheers!
Thanks for this video- explained simply but with attention to detail. I have now used it a half dozen times so I could take my bike pedals with me on trips. Huge help!
Great video. I've been through multiple videos but none worked. This explained clearly on which side should the pressure be applied. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Thanks for this vid. The tip at the end re: breaking lose extra tight pedals worked great for me. My arms aren't quite as long as the mechanic in the vid so I held the off crank with one hand and applied pressure on the wrench with my foot. Solved my "stuck pedal" problem with no sweat.
I really needed this science lesson. I always forget which pedal to loosen which way
Thanks for the great vid. Was busily cranking away---in the wrong direction---on my crescent wrench when it dawned on me something just MIGHT be amiss. This vid helped me save a very-soon-to-be significant mistake.
The only bit of info I was seeking, which he doesn’t mention explicitly, is the simple “right side is common thread direction” and therefore, the left side is where you have to be careful to turn OPPOSITE of common. It’s the only potential blunder if old pedals are frozen tight. Yes, he says it, but all that clockwise and counterclockwise which depends on view direction is confusing. Everything else in the video is just basic mechanical sensibilities.
Thanks for this video. You just saved me a trip to my LBS. Extra money for new pedals! 😀
The tip on mechanical advantage was really helpful . Thanks.
Thank you very much. You have the best instructional bike videos.
just watched the vid again for pedal removal:
1. Get the "want to be" removed pedal behind (so the opposite pedal is in front)
2. Get the tool engaged, facing the front (paralel or almost paralel with the opposite crank).
3. Tool goes up, opposite crank pushed/footed down
These tutorials are just the best
Such good videos you Park people make--authoritative and well presented.
great guide, incase you missed it, when brakes fail use handbrake 2:29
This is exceedingly hilarious.
Another top video. Clear and simple 👍👍👍
Got some new shimanos for my birthday. Excited to get them installed today!
Pedal threads should to be 'greased' completely. Applying the grease to only the pedal threads will result in almost nothing on the pedal starting threads and the last threads in the crank arm once the pedal is completely installed. Especially when new pedals are installed on a new crank arm. Grease should be applied to the pedal threads and to the starting threads of the crank arm. You don't have to coat all the crank arm threads. Just put in enough for the pedal threads to push the grease through and coat the crank arm pedal threads. This will result in an even coating on all the threads when you see some grease around the 15 mm wrench flats and some grease around the end of the pedal threads on the back side of the crank arm. Wipe's away the visible grease.
#mechanicaladvantage
Easiest way to remember:
Pull wrench back towards rear wheel on both sides, this way you will never confuse how to unscrew the pedals.
Pull wrench forward towards front wheel to tighten.
Boom.
Thanks, Was to remember
Unless you turn from underneath
Honestly who here does not use the park tools but still watches their videos
Thank you sooooo much, the right pedal was stuck, applied your additional tip to remove it and just like that it was removed, 😊
Calvin, I simply tell folks "R"emove to the "R"ear!, "F"oward to the "F"ront to install :)
@GrievedHymn This doesn't work on bike pedals!
@GrievedHymn Bike pedals and most bottom brackets on the left side threads are reverse from the right side in which your rule would not apply. IF you can successfully removed your left pedal by wrenching to the left, your bike was poorly made with two right side crank arms. I'm 68 and do know my ass from my elbow! :D !!!
@@thomascdurham9130 Yes it does. On the left you turn to the left and on the right to the right.
So, I think the bike shop glued the pedals to the bike, it have been trying for an hour and I’ve had lots of help
Best moustache in the cycling industry!
I have none of those tools😂, but I still did it. Thanks for the vid
2:29 His palm brake is better than my mechanical brakes
Thank you for a very simple but detailed explanation.
I have a wrench like that, VERY well made and does the job
Thank you for the refresher and kind words........Bill M.
Installer has a very nice tone.
Margaret Cronin Christopher Walken said YEA! I like your tone. I would never stab you in the face with a soldering iron
I'm glad I found this video because I a person who knows nothing about bikes, trying to repair mine.😁
Just got new pedals for Christmas and I don’t have a pedal wrench so turns out a 16mm combo wrench works great
A combination wrench will work fine. Just not as comfortabel and usually not as much leverage. But it should be a 15mm.
@@parktool it worked but for some reason I had to use a 16mm but thankfully my new pedals use an Allen key
Can u use chain oil or wd40 as thread stuff
Calvin is the best!
your video Has the best instruction.
thank man, you are golden,. changed my pedals easily coz of your tut
So are the nuts and the washers INSIDE the pedal? Mine on my specialized are so bad the plastic pedal was cracked and broken on both and lifted right off with just removing the front nut,
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing
Loving you is easy cause you're helpful, tha tha tha tha thank youuuu AHHHHHH!!!!😁
Very nice many thanks master mechanics bikes thanks
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
Any tips for removing a stuck pedal? I do not want to round the axle or break my allen.
Penetrating oil and heat could help.
The right pedal is right, or correct , the left is odd. Easy to remember now?
Right means a right hand thread which is a regular thread you turn to the right to do it up or to make it tight.
The left pedal has the odd back to front alternate left hand thread, turn right to un do or take out.
No. What way is right?
100% agree. You can simplify it even more. Just remember one side. I say “one side is WHACK!” and that’s all I need. When you consider that one side has the chain and chainring and gears, it can’t be whack. So the other side is whack. No left, no right, no clockwise, no counterclockwise, no tighten, no loosen, no consideration of crank arm rotation, etc, etc.
Finally a proper explanation video the rest expect us to know it
Whats the diference between ball bearing pedalls and DU Bearing Pedals?
Thank you, I spent 1h of my life trying to install the left side pedal by turning it clockwise.
Out of curiosity, what bike is that ?
The simple way to remember is turn the wrench towards the back to remove the pedals, works for both sides.
confusing. turning upwards? downwards? bike standing upright? upside down? :/
Point the respective pedal cranks to the ground. Put the wrench on or in with its handle facing the back wheel. Push down = push backwards. Works both sides. Kalvin’s leverage instructions are optimal, but if you get confused with the orientation, this technique can help you establish which direction is appropriate.
I broke a. PD - W 4 removing a pedal on a TREK FX5 a month ago due to electrolytic corrosion .
Great video can you Please make a video about how to grease the bearing inside the pedals
Thx my man parktool
What type of grease you use?
This is quality material
This man is a god!
So how do you remove the entire pedal assembly. The threading on mine is fucked, i cant just screw the part your foot touches. I need to replace the entire "arm" too.
good, but why no pipe extension, or penetrating oil, or heat?(on the stuck one)
Brilliantly clear!
Very helpful tutorial, thanks.
👍👍Thanks for that knowledge.
Where do I put the right pedal? Do I put it in the non drive side or the drive side?
"Right" and "Left" are from the riders point of view. As you sit on the bike, the right side is the drive side, with the chain.
if the pedal on the crank side loosens just by the motion of pedaling or normal thread makes no since. Why wouldn't the crank side have a left thread so it actually tightens when pedaling. Anyway today I striped my left pedal and it won't even thread in now and tighten. Is there a thread adapter I can get that inserts
If there are no more threads in the crank there are people who sell helicoils for them. We offer taps to clean the threads but no Helicoils. The reason the pedals are threaded like this is because the ball bearings in the pedals reverse the rotational force.
If my bike has 15mm wrench flat can I put pedals with no French flat? Thanks 👍
You sure can. The cranks do not mind if your pedals have or do not have wrench flats. Either will work in the same crank.
Thank you
Hi. Great video. Btw, can I use HPG-1?
Are the differences in the two types of pedals built into the pedals or the bike? i.e Can I take pedals that use an allen key and put them on a bike whose current pedals use a spanner?
The different types are in the pedal. You can certainly install either on the common 9/16" threaded crank.
thank you very much, i kept thinking eighty tighty lefty Lucy, then i watched this video
worked like a charm
My 2 Question Is Can I Use The Conventional 15mm wrench and One More Question Can You Tell Me which one The mm allen Key for the XC MTB pedals? Thank You
Many pedal wrench flats are narrow, and will not accept the wider open end 15mm wrenches. These need a pedal wrench. But if your wrench fits fully on the flats, it will do the job. For the hex fitting install at the end of the pedal thread, these vary by brand. 8mm is common but you also see 6mm.
I installed the pedals on my new bike a few months ago and everything runs well, except I keep finding small metal shards around the contact area between the pedals and the crankarms. It's like small chips of metal are coming out of the threaded hole of the crank arms. The pedals are not loose at all and the bike is running well. Any idea why this happens and is it normal? I did not apply any grease when installing the pedals.
It is common, and in that sense normal. The chips are likely from the pedal shaft digging into the face of the arm. A pedal washer between crank and pedal can help prevent this. The threads are not damaged by this, and the pedal stays tight if adequately torqued. These burrs however can be sharp, it is good to know them off with a small file or pick.
thank you. very educative
I got some cube all mountain pedals and I have a 9/16” and 15mm pedal wrench, both seem to be too big which doesn’t make sense, I’m about to throw this bike away and go back to skateboarding, shit shouldn’t be this difficult
It is common for pedal wrench flats to be undersized, which is not a good thing, just the way things are. Measure with a caliper and you can see this on many different brands. The pedal wrenches can deal with this, just don't over tighten.
Park Tool I think I need to get a bike stand soon, so I’m an idiot and the pedals were suppose to be applied with an Allen wrench, I didn’t put enough grease on I think but I took it to a bike shop, they got the pedals off, greased them really good and put them back on and they adjusted my front brake
Which grease should I use for the inside and the threads of pedals?
Park Tool ASC-1 is a great choice for pedal threads. PPL-1 is also a good choice for that application.
@@parktool Just threads or both threads and the axle and ballbearing(s) inside?
Just the threads. The bearings or bushings in the pedals should use PPL or HPG.
@@parktool ok Thanks :)
@@parktool I have a plastic (probably teflon) bushing in my Race Facce Aeffect pedals. Is the PPl-1 compatible with plastic bushings?
This is a Hight Quality Professional video. Thank you for your class and generosity!
I never knew the threads were reversed on one side, makes sense though after watching this. Had a bike given to me after it fell out of the back of a car and sheared the left crank right off, working on fixing it up, but the pedal felt 'gritty' like maybe the impact messed up the bearings. Just gonna replace both pedals, but I was wrenching on that left pedal for five minutes before I watched this and found out it's reverse thread...
Can you use Anti Seize Compound ASC-1 with carbon crank? Or you need a different product?
ASC-1 would work great for the pedal threads on the carbon fiber crank, as well as for the crank bolts.
@@parktool thank you!
Do you have the model of that luggage carrier on sec 0:31 ?
Once I saw the mustache, I knew I was gonna get help from a professional.
What size of allen wrench should i use for my spd model Shimano SM-SH51?
Of you don't know that you shouldnt try it...