All your videos are so good. I chose to buy the laydown because your have good information and you seem to interact with your viewers. Thank you from usa
Hi Trish, I just wanted to thank you for the great content you're putting out! After 31 years away from the sport (my Schumacher CAT was stolen when I was in my mid teens and that was the end of it for me) I'm thinking of making a comeback. Your video's have been a wonderful way for me to reacquaint myself with RC, and it has put Schumacher at the top of my shopping list! Now decide if I want to come back in with a 2wd buggy to begin, or wait to see when a 2wd stadium truck comes out... I've love to come back in with an L1 Evo, but from a set up and running perspective I think 2wd would be easier to re-familiarize myself with.
A detailed build video with tips and tricks would really help the Schumacher brand imo. As this buggy appears to be more complicated. Something similar to what Frank Root is doing with the TLR 22X-4 build series. Keep up the good work!
These are really, really great videos, especially being newer to Schumacher, coming from TLR and still running XRay. Still struggling with the belts though. My old 22-4 2.0 was easy as belt tension was controlled via the swappable blocks. This is much more challenging. 30% you say for rear--that's tough, no markings to reference, so it all becomes "eye balling" and assuming that the center of the slider is what you're trying to get to 30%, and I assume that 30% to be the distance from the left. Not sure why so much adjustment range is necessary if only going 30% over. Front is worse as everyone just says slightly tighter than rear? So we went from using "a location" based setting on rear as baseline, to a tension based setting on front. How do I measure that? Just by feel? Is there an approximate angle, in relationship to the chassis, that the tensioner would sit at if 30% set on rear and slightly tighter is goal on front. The FAB has no guidelines n the set up manual other that flush to start. I've never had a buggy with something like that so "feel" when you don't know what you're feeling (and your belts probably causing issues too), is tough. I've always thought the Schumacher manuals are really solid, but this belt tension and fAB thing should have some detailed pics showing where baseline should be, especially that front belt tensioner which just keeps moving every time I try and tighten, adding additional complexity. Please don't misunderstand, I really like these vids, some of the best I've seen describing set up, but those three set up issues above need better clarification.
Hi Trish, just wanted to say thank you for designing a truly excellent car, really makes me smile every time I drive it. I'm running the L1 Evo on a large, imagine big for 10th scale, but small for 1/8th, low grip dirt track. We run soft tyres, because the grip is low and tyre wear is low on the packed, but always dusty dirt, Proline Electrons in M4 seem to work well. Most cars I've driven on this surface naturally tend to have too much steering. To combat this on the L1 I raised the front inner camber link from the middle to the top position. This seems to work really well, but I've not really seen this change on any setup sheets? I've tried a whole load of other changes to either increase rear grip / reduce front grip, but this was the only change that felt good and resulted in faster laps. Have you tried this, I know the tracks you typically run on are quite different? Can you think of anything else I should have tried, or any other changes that would compliment this change?
Hi Trish building a new L1 evo and I'm on with the driveline now. I have the slipper shaft assembled with all the washers and spacers but I have a small amount of side to side float on the shaft without the slipper fitted. Is this normal? The washer, spacer and 4 bearings are all fitted in the correct order.
Hi. Did you resolve the play in the layshaft. I've just built my L1 evo and has a lot of play too. Also noticeable play with the bearing in the spur gear so cant seem to mesh it properly. Sounds quite loud when revving
Who ever designed the shell for the EVO should be fired or re-trained on how to design a beautiful master piece. This must be one of the most ugly cars I have seen.
I have learned more from this and the 2wd video than I have ever learned about setup from my 3 years of racing RC. Thank you!
I found trish bits really helpful and informative especially for a newbe like me to belt drive cars, keep up the great work.
All your videos are so good. I chose to buy the laydown because your have good information and you seem to interact with your viewers. Thank you from usa
6 mo ago this video boggled me. Now after rebuilding my Evo L1 it makes perfect sense. Thanks for the video :)
Your videos are always so useful and helpful. Thanks a lot. Great cars are Schumacher cars really they are
Nice tips, thanks for sharing! I'm enjoying the Evo so far, you gave me some ideas to try.
Great video Trish, always interesting infos about set up and cars features 💪
Hi Trish, I just wanted to thank you for the great content you're putting out!
After 31 years away from the sport (my Schumacher CAT was stolen when I was in my mid teens and that was the end of it for me) I'm thinking of making a comeback. Your video's have been a wonderful way for me to reacquaint myself with RC, and it has put Schumacher at the top of my shopping list! Now decide if I want to come back in with a 2wd buggy to begin, or wait to see when a 2wd stadium truck comes out...
I've love to come back in with an L1 Evo, but from a set up and running perspective I think 2wd would be easier to re-familiarize myself with.
Been awhile since you enlightened us
Thank you so much for your time and explanation!
A detailed build video with tips and tricks would really help the Schumacher brand imo. As this buggy appears to be more complicated. Something similar to what Frank Root is doing with the TLR 22X-4 build series. Keep up the good work!
Great video! Love my evo! Running on dirt and the car is super in 13.5 stock class!
Could you give us more setup tips for indoor dirt track racing please?
These are really, really great videos, especially being newer to Schumacher, coming from TLR and still running XRay. Still struggling with the belts though. My old 22-4 2.0 was easy as belt tension was controlled via the swappable blocks. This is much more challenging. 30% you say for rear--that's tough, no markings to reference, so it all becomes "eye balling" and assuming that the center of the slider is what you're trying to get to 30%, and I assume that 30% to be the distance from the left. Not sure why so much adjustment range is necessary if only going 30% over. Front is worse as everyone just says slightly tighter than rear? So we went from using "a location" based setting on rear as baseline, to a tension based setting on front. How do I measure that? Just by feel? Is there an approximate angle, in relationship to the chassis, that the tensioner would sit at if 30% set on rear and slightly tighter is goal on front. The FAB has no guidelines n the set up manual other that flush to start. I've never had a buggy with something like that so "feel" when you don't know what you're feeling (and your belts probably causing issues too), is tough. I've always thought the Schumacher manuals are really solid, but this belt tension and fAB thing should have some detailed pics showing where baseline should be, especially that front belt tensioner which just keeps moving every time I try and tighten, adding additional complexity. Please don't misunderstand, I really like these vids, some of the best I've seen describing set up, but those three set up issues above need better clarification.
Hi Trish, just wanted to say thank you for designing a truly excellent car, really makes me smile every time I drive it. I'm running the L1 Evo on a large, imagine big for 10th scale, but small for 1/8th, low grip dirt track. We run soft tyres, because the grip is low and tyre wear is low on the packed, but always dusty dirt, Proline Electrons in M4 seem to work well. Most cars I've driven on this surface naturally tend to have too much steering. To combat this on the L1 I raised the front inner camber link from the middle to the top position. This seems to work really well, but I've not really seen this change on any setup sheets? I've tried a whole load of other changes to either increase rear grip / reduce front grip, but this was the only change that felt good and resulted in faster laps. Have you tried this, I know the tracks you typically run on are quite different? Can you think of anything else I should have tried, or any other changes that would compliment this change?
Great info Trish.... I notice l1 and l1r have 4mm belts and the evo has 5mm belts... why is this..?
Could you disengage the front wheel drive to make the L1 drive as a 2WD?
Why has the slipper eliminator conversion kit for this car been discontinued
Hi, Can using different grades of oil in the front to rear differential be possible or do you think using the same grades is the best practice
Does the original l1 shell fit as I prefer the shape of the previous shell.?
Hi Trish building a new L1 evo and I'm on with the driveline now. I have the slipper shaft assembled with all the washers and spacers but I have a small amount of side to side float on the shaft without the slipper fitted. Is this normal? The washer, spacer and 4 bearings are all fitted in the correct order.
Hi. Did you resolve the play in the layshaft. I've just built my L1 evo and has a lot of play too. Also noticeable play with the bearing in the spur gear so cant seem to mesh it properly. Sounds quite loud when revving
Is there a new 2wd coming out
Love the new body colours
Who ever designed the shell for the EVO should be fired or re-trained on how to design a beautiful master piece. This must be one of the most ugly cars I have seen.
Well that's just your opinion man