I am completely with you Andrew and this is an excellent question! The purpose of the upgrade is so you can print materials that need temperatures over 245C nozzles. The point of my test prints is to insure that we don't lose quality by switching hotends. I'm not looking to improve quality, only maintain it while increasing capability. In my next video I show you what kind of materials are possible.
Great video Kersey Fabrications! Have you tried or have thoughts on other Hot Ends like Mosquito? Is Micro Swiss making the best product still? Or is switching to an all metal hot end overall with the options available, all are pretty much the same for the most part?
I actually really love the design of the Mosquito and would love to have one on one of my printers. Here are my thoughts though in no particular order: - The Mosquito is almost 2.5x more expensive than the Micro Swiss, so cost wise it's no contest. - As of writing, there is no drop-in replacement for Creality printers with the Mosquito but I know there's one coming. So until then, it's an ease of install issue. - The standard Mosquito goes up to 450C for extreme filaments. I actually need to check with Micro Swiss for their max temp but either way, I don't see me breaking 300C on a Creality printer anytime soon. So, for me, it's somewhat moot. I hope that helps. The Mosquito is a well engineered hotend but I think it's in a different league than our less expensive drop-in replacements. I'll report back though on max temp when I hear from Micro Swiss. That being said, when they release the new Mosquito for Creality, I hope they will send one for review.
This is probably a very "newb' question, but don't you have to install a new OS to run the printer so that it allow for the higher temps you can produce with the hot end set-up? I am still using the stock 8 bit board with original Marlin software and it will not allow those kind of temps for the hot-end. Just curious and a little ignorant, sorry for the question , I am planning on printing with BASF Xstrand GF30PP for motorcycle fairing parts and it requires a very high temp of at least 235C to work properly. Thank you for your time and effort on your videos. Excellent presentation.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks Kris, I appreciate you taking time to answer, I think I forgot to mention I was working on an Ender 5 plus. Sorry for the lack of attention on my part.
I currently love my prints with the ender 5 's stock hot end. However, my maintenance liability requires me to periodically tear apart the hot end into components and thoroughly clean them. This keeps my prints perfect! However, I had some interest in the microswiss as I believe it will reduce my maintenance frequency related to having to remove, clean, reseat the hot end periodically as the ptfe tube no longer exists in the heat sink area and that the nozzle and hot end are connected metal to metal with no "oozing"
I completely understand the maintenance issue. I deal with that myself anytime I want to change nozzle sizes or materials. I think in part 3 I mention how easy it is to change nozzles with an all-metal hotend and even demonstrate the process.
I ordered one from Gulfcoast Robotics, some say it’s a great copy of the micro swiss at half the price, worth a shot. I’ll try to make a video installing it.
Love this series. I’ve followed each part and has helped me greatly with upgrading my printer. I installed the microswiss and it’s printing great. When I went to change the filament although it will not unload through the command or manually(pulling on the filament). I have an EZRstruder. I also put on the nozzleX nozzle. I didn’t know if you had any issues with this or any suggestions as to what could be causing this. I wasn’t sure if it could have something to do with my nozzle or if it was something else.
I got to ask, what kind of temperature sensor does the cr10 microSwiss heatblock take? The blob, or a cylinder of some diameter? Thinking of upgrading, but i want to figure everything out before purchasing parts.
It uses the same thermistor as all Creality printers. In fact, you use the one that comes with your printer, they don't provide a new one. So, if your printer's working, you should be good to go!
I know this is an old video but I have a few questions. First, I have an Ender 5 Pro. I notice that you are not running direct drive on the printer. Do you print in PETG? I have struggled with stringing. Especially with PETG. I switched to Direct Drive and saw minor improvements in retraction. I was curious your experiences. I have also had issues and struggles with the stock extruder [same you have shown]. I am curious if the MicroSwiss will help with the clogging and stringing issues with PETG?
I do print with PETG on occasion and it is a challenge. Two settings in Cura that should really help: Combing Mode: All Outer Wall Wipe Distance: Size of nozzle/0.4mm Also, set "Fill in Gaps Between Walsl" to "Nowhere" From there, do stringing calibration like you normally would to find the best retraction settings.
I was under the impression that I received a hardened steel nozzle when i purchased my Micro Swiss All- Metal Hot End. This makes more sense if it was just a nickle plated brass one as the .4 hole wore out very quickly using Glow in the Dark Filament and I ended up changing my Ender 3 back to the original Hot End.
Yeah, the nickle coating should help slow some wear but it won't last long given how thin it is. You don't need to abandon the entire hotend though, just buy another nozzle.
Ok, since you now have convinced me to "KISS" and abandon my V6 parts I've used since the beginning I now have an ask for you. Would you kindle do a review/guide for the new Micro Swiss direct drive kit? (it's not geared so not exactly Bondtech, but still direct should be beneficial and this lighter than a Bondtech solution). Also, I was planning on getting a high precision/high temp thermistor for the V6 but I don't think those cartridges works for the Micro Swiss, are there/what are the comparable solutions for it?
Kris, Good video, I have 3 MicroSwiss units - 2 on my Ender 5's and 1 on my Ender 5 PLUS. I have been happy with them, except I have had jamming problems between prints Am waiting until the next episode to see your results and if you have made any changes to your slicer / start and end Gcode. I have modified my to retract 45 mm at the end of a print and then try to extrude at a higher temp at the beginning of a print. I would like to find a better way.
It's interesting you mentioned that. I was expecting clogging due to reports from others. I've had zero jams though. My final retraction is 6mm, which keeps the filament in the nozzle. That should mean that as long as your cooling is good on the heatsink, it shouldn't clog. Let me know your thoughts!
@@kerseyfabs Thanks for sharing your results. I am going to change my start and end gcode to remove the extra retraction at the end. I have it retracting 40mm at the end of a print. I'll use your 6mm and see how that works. I'll report back. Overall I have been very happy with them and the print quality.
I made the changes to my start and end gcode to only retract 6mm at the end. Seems to be working well, no jams so far. Kris, thanks for the suggestion!!
@@allanbourner4569 I had some problems when I first installed the MicroSwiss on my Ender5, it was jamming when it cooled down. I could not get the filament out to change rolls or could not get a new print to start. I did some web searching and found suggestions to retract extra filament when a print is done. I experimented with gcode to retract 40 or 50 mm after a print finished. This would allow me to remove the filament to change rolls, but did not work well to print from the same roll. To make a long story short, Kris suggested I change retraction to 6mm at end of print. This seems to fix the jamming at start, but I did have trouble removing a roll. The solution that I found is for PLA to heat the nozzle up to 240 then retract. The Ender 5 PLUS is a little different as there is no fixed program to load or unload filament. I just heat up the hot end to 240 and swap filament..
Super important to install the heat break on the heater block before the nozzle... I didn’t notice because of how fast the video went by and total disaster.. filament leak from the top of the heater block.. got into the screws holding the heater cartridge in and ended up trashing the heater block trying to get those out...
I'm aware that this hotend comes with a nozzle but was wondering if you can use the stock nozzle with this upgrade if I had to ? Thanks for your vids, they are EXCELLENT!
I upgraded the hot end and then decided to upgrade the extruder to the Micro Swiss direct drive. Ever since I replaced the extruder the nozzle blocks for a past time. I have altered everything that is supposed to be, esteps etc. have you tried this mod yet? if so what results did you get?
Hello i have a problem, i changed my hotend to all metal hotend in my ender 5 plus, but it prints only when retraction distance in at 0,75mm and it has a lot of stringing, can you help me with that ? URGENT !!
How does Micro Swiss compare to E3D V6? Never tried the Micro Swiss, but might be a simpler way to go than the V6 as it's closer to stock. I was planning to run a V6 with titanium heat break and plated copper heater block and nozzles.
I have never done a direct comparison but I have used them both. I would say that they both work well if installed correctly and cooled well. I personally like the Micro Swiss on Creality printers because they install easily without the need for printed mounts. I could go deeper here but that's the brief answer. 😀
@@kerseyfabs Thank you, I'm torn a bit between testing the Micro Swiss or going with what I'm used to. As you say there's a little extra hassle with mounts etc. I'm not sue, but I'd guess the Micro Swiss might just be a tiny bit lighter too.
so how much does nylon cost for a full 1000 gram spool? is it easier to print than ABS> i have an ender 5 and a cr-10 clone i never go hotter than 245 with my stock ends... i did switch to the blue bowden tubes which handle heat better... i just print pla and petg mainly... but a machine that can print nylon may be a great option to have,since nylon is very strong imo... thanks
Found out something interesting. I contacted Micro Swiss to ask if precision thermistors like Slice Engineerings or E3D's PT1000 would fit in the heater block. They replied that it didn't but that you could use the E3D V6 heater block with their hotend which fits them. This is interesting because one of the reasons I wanted keep going with V6 originally was that I wanted to the try their upgraded plated copper heater block and nozzles. Seems trying that is still an option then (better heat conductivity than the Micro Swiss all aluminium heater block?). Your thoughts on this?
That is interesting. I haven't tried it myself. My thoughts: - Why do you want a PT1000? What feature of a PT1000 is calling you to that upgrade? - Same question but with the copper parts. - Basically, yes, copper is more thermally conductive and should keep your temperatures from fluctuating as much. BUT, this is most necessary when going to higher than normal temperatures for more exotic filaments. At standard temps (
@@kerseyfabs I must confess I'm in the latter category, tinkering for the sake of tinkering. I will really only be doing PLA+ and PETG for the foreseeable future. I guess I'm not looking for higher temps, but precision in every aspect of the build. Switching thermistors or adding new LCD and mainboard really aren't that viable options until we can compile our own firmwares though I guess.
@@SteinerSE That's right. Not only that but there are plenty of upgrades that will produce better quality long before you get to copper heat blocks and high precision thermistors.
It doesn't need one in general, it will only need one if you print filaments that require temperatures that are over 245C or so. At that point, the PTFE tuning will start to break down. The ruby nozzle only prevents nozzle wear.
The Creality hot end only has one grub screw to hold the cartridge and thermistor in as the design of the standard Creality fan shroud makes it impossible for the cartridge to come out
There's actually a grub screw for the heater and a screw for the thermistor. I wasn't suggesting that they could fall out. I was actually trying to say that it made it harder to remove. With the clamp style, you can always open it a bit further for thermal expansion or for "gunk." That was in response to multiple heater cartridges getting stuck, as mine did in this video.
Please no 2 hour videos - Keep breaking them up into logical sections - Thanks for working Micro Swiss it is one of the upgrades I've considered, even if I don't need it yet.
So, I may have a unique problem after this upgrade, after installing it, now when it does its bed leveling, after the microswitch detects the bed the bed raises up and hits the nozzle. not only does it hit it, but it keeps going a few mm and tweaks the back of the bed up. almost as if the nozzle is lower then the original. Any suggestions?
I have a look at all these upgrades and I have to think..... Would it just be better to have put all the money together and buy a more expensive printer from the start
That one always comes up and it's something each person needs to decide. Some people enjoy the customization and upgrade process and would rather do the work as part of the hobby. Others would like to invest a smaller amount up front and upgrade as needed. It's really personal preference. If you'd prefer to have a higher-end machine that's good to go out of the box, feel free to save the pennies for a better machine.
Thank you so much for the video, though just a thought that would have helped me a lot? I came to this video to see the installation, and that part was fast-forwarded so much that even frame by frame didn't help, so now still having to find an installation video..
I'm really sorry to hear that. I don't think I fast forwarded through anything complicated but I'm sorry if you feel you missed something. Is there a specific question I can answer for you?
@@kerseyfabs It was at about the 22 minute mark - I had screwed up my printer (new to this, the original end overflowed, glued everything in place, basically had to change out that entire part of the assembly) so I found this video trying figure out how to fit the parts back together (where to put the sensors, how the screws were supposed to hold what in place, etc). I'm sure once I've done it a few times (hope I don't break it That often but I'm sure I will) I'm sure it will feel easy. It is much appreciated though and I'm ok now - I kept digging around and got it all fixed since then. And again, don't regret watching - the overall video was very informative (really enjoyed it) and it was cool getting a better idea about the different parts and what makes them special
That's a Hero Me Gen3. You can download it for printing off of Thingiverse. I've covered it in my dedicated cooling review ("The Best Part Cooler...") and in my latest "Ender 5 Plus Upgrades..." video.
@@kerseyfabs Getting to your other videos, just found your channel when researching my potential 5+ purchase. I currently use the Petsfang on my E3, set up for the V6 and Bondtech in direct mode, and quite happy with it.
@@kerseyfabs I bought a cr10s pro v2 recently as my first 3d printer since I kind of wanted to start with something that I consider to have all the bells and whistles out of the box (with my very limited and inexperienced knowledge of course). Everything was working smoothly for the first couple of weeks and now I cant stop getting a clog in the capricorn tube. Have had printer for around a month and half. Tried taking it apart putting it back together after watching videos on proper procedures. Looking into this hotend as what might be my last hope :,(. Loving the hobby but I havent had a successful print in around 2 weeks now and I'm getting discouraged.
Ended up with a heated mess on top of the heat block within a week, unfortunately broke my thermistor getting all of it loose....turns out the heatbreak would not go all the way up into the cooling block (which micro Swiss calls “propriety thermal tube/cooling block interface in the cut out picture). I was convinced I did something wrong, but after cleaning everything, after an hour of measuring and scotchbrite all around, I had to use my vice to press the heatbreak home, that isn’t normal is it? I know different metals have different thermal coefficients and expand and contract at different rates, but a vice? (Yes, the heatbreak was installed straight both times, first time by hand)
That's really odd. If you look starting at 22:25, the part that joins the heatsink to the hotend is pretty small and is not that tight until you screw in the grub screw. I can't imagine what happened or why you had an overflow.
Clean the bed with dish soap (Dawn) and water. Preferably use a paper towel to wash and dry the glass. Never touch the print area with your fingers. You can dust it as needed with paper towels or clean cloth. This is the way.
Thanks. I'm always looking on ways to improve. I've used a lapel mic and I have different problems with almost anything I use. I will look into proper loudness.
Kersey Fabrications I’ve always had great success with Audio Technica and Sure mics, not too hard on the pocket book. But yeah, check out some stuff about LUFS and Gain setting while recording. It kind of sounds like your peaking a little bit and I don’t think the room your in helps much as far as reverberation. Lowering the gain should solve most of the issue tho
This was one of my last video with my old camera. With the new setup my audio isn't perfect but I no longer peak. Check out my latest Creality Ender 5 Plus Full Review: ua-cam.com/video/-BFUf8S6-FE/v-deo.html I'm still playing with microphone setups and figuring out audio normalization.
I've seen reviews on the micro swiss website of this, many people saying they had a lot of leaking and/or blockages, more than the standard creality hotend. Have you (or can anyone else) confirm if they've had these issues? Could be dependent on filament type? I'll using PETG
I have had zero clogs in mine that has been the fault of the hotend. Just make sure your fans are working correctly to avoid heat creep and get your retraction settings solid.
It's a 3D printed Yoda extruder knob. You can find it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141160 The knob helps manually turning the extruder when it's disengaged.
hey Kersey No one does nozzle types for certain kits like lets say an example, changing from a stock hotend to an all metal hotend then what changes with that new kit like what type of threads and type of nozzle. etc. Maybe an idea would be a video on that. Unless you already have one somewhere.
Almost all of the Creality hotends use he MK8-style nozzles and most of the mods stick with this to avoid confusion and wasting existing nozzles. If there were to be a change, I would definitely talk about it in the video. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs ty so much. Thats awesome. Ill be getting an a2 steel nozzle then for my ender 5 so i can start trying out other materials :D. I appreciate your help
I noticed that on the Micro Swiss website, the CR-10S Pro is a different part. So yours may not fit the Ender 5 Plus OR it may need some modification. I'm not sure since I don't have an S PRO.
Allan, I have had a MicroSwiss on my Ender 5 PLUS for over a month, works well. Kris gave me a good suggestion to solve the only problem that I have had, jamming between prints.
@@kerseyfabs I'm thinking about getting an Ender 5 plus or Cr10 V2 pro. The only things holding me back from the Ender is the hot end is not all metal and doesn't come with a silent board stock. I also heard the auto bed leveling wasn't the greatest with the Ender. I really just want to print large prints (helmets and orops) and not have to constantly work on my printer like I did my old FDM that I just scrapped.
I've been having issues with the Microswiss hotend, I beleive it has to do with the Small setscrew that holds the hotend to the heat break. I'm getting some twisting on my hotend that worries me.
@@kerseyfabs I was watching your video again to see if I caught anything I missed, like a flat on the thermal break that prevents rotating. I'll tear it apart some time this week and see what I come up with. Thanks for making these videos and doing the Marlin firmware stuff. I just ordered a SKR Pro V1.2 that I'm excited to seperate my Z-axis and get Pause at layer Functionallity. Not sure if your looking for quick video ideas. I upgraded to the HeroMe Gen 5. This shifted my BLTouch X/Y, which I haven't had any luck getting my offsets to take. I figured its something you ay have done or others might be interesting in. Take Care!
I have a Pro V1.2 I plan to do a video on if I can find the time. If you're still using stock firmware then it's not possible without recompiling. If you'd like to try and compile your own, you can modify my firmware here: github.com/KerseyFabrications/marlin_e5p This section: #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -45 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle] #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle] #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
I wonder (it's a curse) why this device is called "all metal". Does that mean there are equivalent devices made from NON-metal? Certainly not plastic. Maybe a ceramic heat break??? If the heat break is intended to block the thermal path above the heat block/nozzle then why not give it more thermal mass by making it bigger and/or longer. I would think the bigger the better. Right now it appears compactness is the primary criteria. Also, the original heatsink has many more cooling fins than it's replacement, hence more surface area to radiate heat. I'm not a thermal engineer but some of these things seem pretty intuitive.
The not all-metal hotends have a PTFE tube on the inside that guide the filament to the melt zone. That's why they're no all metal. Greater thermal mass would transfer more heat to the heatsink. We want to stop that. On the higher-end parts, we use titanium which does not conduct heat as well. Keep in mind it has to be strong, not brittle.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, ceramic is more brittle than titanium but there are some pretty tough ceramic composites today and I don't see that whole assembly taking much abuse anyway. Maybe I'll feel differently when I actually have a printer.
Hello I have a problem with my ender 5 plus... I attached a google drive link below for video and it seems to not be clogged, but the gear pushing the filament keeps clicking and trying to push the filament. As you can see in the video the filament is still coming out. I tried high temperatures and low temperatures, but same thing. I even tried slow print speeds, different filaments etc. Any ideas? drive.google.com/file/d/1b52kiUrN16CQLzWIVvmBsJYuMtMSM5Bl/view?usp=sharing Is there a way you can help me @Kersey Fabrications? Thanks!!
@@kerseyfabs have you had any issues with your Bl touch? Mine keeps flashing red...(i checked all wiring, replaced plunger, and have the current firmware, on a v2.2 board)..very frustrating.
Hi! I hope you can give me some clue of what’s its going on with my settings. I have ender 5 pro, skr mini e3 v2, tft 35, and i just installed a micro swiss exactly as you do. Problem its that now the new hotend wont get warm. If i use a hotgun blower the temperature raise as should and i see that in the display. But if a preheat to 200 or any other, the display shows that the heater its raising but i do not feel that in the hotend. Its still cold even the display says its 200. Before installed the micro swiss was working perfectly.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, right now i have Pid tuned a few times to see if its respons to somthing (sorry my english). In the display says now 200/200, i have tft35, but my hotgun say its 35C in the nozzle (When i say hotgun i mean the gun thats checks the temp of the wall or something)
If you made that heatsink shorter and out of a small block of granite or marble, even glass, you could do away with the heat sink finning and the cooling fan too as no heat will transfer up the stone material. The heat block could be attached to the bottom of the stone block with 2 screws....easy done, nothing fantastic about that.
I'm not so sure that you want that. You need to wick the heat away from the heatblock or it will continue to heat and possibly heat out of control. Otherwise you could just insulate a small screw and call it done.
@@kerseyfabs The heat level is controlled by the thermistor and the build up is only as much as the filament leaves behind as it melts and exits the nozzle taking the heat with it. I would have to wonder how much heat would flow up the T1 heat break and into the finned heatsink compared to the stainless steel one with a finned heat sink.....it might be minimal gains for difficult machining with T1.
@@kerseyfabs Champ. Really like the video. Watched the whole thing now giving it a like. Really a good video breaking down why you would change hot ends.
10.00 dollar hot ends are junk. Used them used a micro swiss and haven't touched it in months. The ender 3 printer prints 24 7 most of the time. Putting one on my CR-10S as I type this.
i would be best to see a $8 all metal hotend compared to a micro swiss... there are a bunch of them... people really don't have money to spend 8x the cost for a part unless it is much better performance wise... no one cares how its made really just as long as it works as well... most of us have dremel tool etc and can tweak a part to work if necessary...
@@kerseyfabs i have 2 of them and they look very well made also..exactly like the swiss you showed except for the cut in heater block. i paid 12.50 for both shipped 6 months ago,,, i installed one yesterday and it clogged so i took it off and used parts i had and installed a standard one... it was great...i did use an old file with the all metal since i have no pc at this time only a chromebook so no cura anymore..
@@kerseyfabs i have not even printed anything since i have these (2-3 months now). not a single one came out at all. 2nd, 3rd layer, and totally clogged. i just gave up on cleaning it. so not printing at all until my standard creality hotend comes.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
all those control prints were excellent quality prints, so why change? im from the school of thought, if it's not broken, don't fix it
I am completely with you Andrew and this is an excellent question! The purpose of the upgrade is so you can print materials that need temperatures over 245C nozzles. The point of my test prints is to insure that we don't lose quality by switching hotends. I'm not looking to improve quality, only maintain it while increasing capability. In my next video I show you what kind of materials are possible.
Micro Swiss is always the Best solution I´ve been using them for over 3 Years BEST BUY
Do you print pla? How to avoid jams with pla and microswiss? Thank you
Great video Kersey Fabrications! Have you tried or have thoughts on other Hot Ends like Mosquito? Is Micro Swiss making the best product still? Or is switching to an all metal hot end overall with the options available, all are pretty much the same for the most part?
I actually really love the design of the Mosquito and would love to have one on one of my printers. Here are my thoughts though in no particular order:
- The Mosquito is almost 2.5x more expensive than the Micro Swiss, so cost wise it's no contest.
- As of writing, there is no drop-in replacement for Creality printers with the Mosquito but I know there's one coming. So until then, it's an ease of install issue.
- The standard Mosquito goes up to 450C for extreme filaments. I actually need to check with Micro Swiss for their max temp but either way, I don't see me breaking 300C on a Creality printer anytime soon. So, for me, it's somewhat moot.
I hope that helps. The Mosquito is a well engineered hotend but I think it's in a different league than our less expensive drop-in replacements. I'll report back though on max temp when I hear from Micro Swiss. That being said, when they release the new Mosquito for Creality, I hope they will send one for review.
This is probably a very "newb' question, but don't you have to install a new OS to run the printer so that it allow for the higher temps you can produce with the hot end set-up? I am still using the stock 8 bit board with original Marlin software and it will not allow those kind of temps for the hot-end. Just curious and a little ignorant, sorry for the question , I am planning on printing with BASF Xstrand GF30PP for motorcycle fairing parts and it requires a very high temp of at least 235C to work properly. Thank you for your time and effort on your videos. Excellent presentation.
Yes, you will need to load a new firmware. I have one available to download.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks Kris, I appreciate you taking time to answer, I think I forgot to mention I was working on an Ender 5 plus. Sorry for the lack of attention on my part.
A lot of usefully information. Looking forward to the next parts.
I would do a PID tune after changing out that hotend before printing anything. Looking forward to next videos.
I do a PID tune before I crank up the heat. Thanks!
This was not a bad length. I added the Micro Swiss hot end to my wish list, but I'll probably go direct drive too.
I did a video on that as well. I personally wasn't a big fan of the DD but others seem to love it.
I currently love my prints with the ender 5 's stock hot end. However, my maintenance liability requires me to periodically tear apart the hot end into components and thoroughly clean them. This keeps my prints perfect!
However, I had some interest in the microswiss as I believe it will reduce my maintenance frequency related to having to remove, clean, reseat the hot end periodically as the ptfe tube no longer exists in the heat sink area and that the nozzle and hot end are connected metal to metal with no "oozing"
I completely understand the maintenance issue. I deal with that myself anytime I want to change nozzle sizes or materials. I think in part 3 I mention how easy it is to change nozzles with an all-metal hotend and even demonstrate the process.
I ordered one from Gulfcoast Robotics, some say it’s a great copy of the micro swiss at half the price, worth a shot. I’ll try to make a video installing it.
Let me know how it goes!
Kersey Fabrications what do you think about direct drive using factory extruder stepper just relocated with a kit? Ender 5 plus
Love this series. I’ve followed each part and has helped me greatly with upgrading my printer. I installed the microswiss and it’s printing great. When I went to change the filament although it will not unload through the command or manually(pulling on the filament). I have an EZRstruder. I also put on the nozzleX nozzle. I didn’t know if you had any issues with this or any suggestions as to what could be causing this. I wasn’t sure if it could have something to do with my nozzle or if it was something else.
I got to ask, what kind of temperature sensor does the cr10 microSwiss heatblock take? The blob, or a cylinder of some diameter? Thinking of upgrading, but i want to figure everything out before purchasing parts.
It uses the same thermistor as all Creality printers. In fact, you use the one that comes with your printer, they don't provide a new one. So, if your printer's working, you should be good to go!
I know this is an old video but I have a few questions. First, I have an Ender 5 Pro. I notice that you are not running direct drive on the printer. Do you print in PETG? I have struggled with stringing. Especially with PETG. I switched to Direct Drive and saw minor improvements in retraction. I was curious your experiences. I have also had issues and struggles with the stock extruder [same you have shown]. I am curious if the MicroSwiss will help with the clogging and stringing issues with PETG?
I do print with PETG on occasion and it is a challenge. Two settings in Cura that should really help:
Combing Mode: All
Outer Wall Wipe Distance: Size of nozzle/0.4mm
Also, set "Fill in Gaps Between Walsl" to "Nowhere"
From there, do stringing calibration like you normally would to find the best retraction settings.
I was under the impression that I received a hardened steel nozzle when i purchased my Micro Swiss All- Metal Hot End. This makes more sense if it was just a nickle plated brass one as the .4 hole wore out very quickly using Glow in the Dark Filament and I ended up changing my Ender 3 back to the original Hot End.
Yeah, the nickle coating should help slow some wear but it won't last long given how thin it is. You don't need to abandon the entire hotend though, just buy another nozzle.
Ok, since you now have convinced me to "KISS" and abandon my V6 parts I've used since the beginning I now have an ask for you. Would you kindle do a review/guide for the new Micro Swiss direct drive kit? (it's not geared so not exactly Bondtech, but still direct should be beneficial and this lighter than a Bondtech solution).
Also, I was planning on getting a high precision/high temp thermistor for the V6 but I don't think those cartridges works for the Micro Swiss, are there/what are the comparable solutions for it?
Kris, Good video, I have 3 MicroSwiss units - 2 on my Ender 5's and 1 on my Ender 5 PLUS. I have been happy with them, except I have had jamming problems between prints Am waiting until the next episode to see your results and if you have made any changes to your slicer / start and end Gcode. I have modified my to retract 45 mm at the end of a print and then try to extrude at a higher temp at the beginning of a print. I would like to find a better way.
It's interesting you mentioned that. I was expecting clogging due to reports from others. I've had zero jams though. My final retraction is 6mm, which keeps the filament in the nozzle. That should mean that as long as your cooling is good on the heatsink, it shouldn't clog. Let me know your thoughts!
@@kerseyfabs Thanks for sharing your results. I am going to change my start and end gcode to remove the extra retraction at the end. I have it retracting 40mm at the end of a print. I'll use your 6mm and see how that works. I'll report back. Overall I have been very happy with them and the print quality.
I made the changes to my start and end gcode to only retract 6mm at the end. Seems to be working well, no jams so far. Kris, thanks for the suggestion!!
Thanks for your input David, maybe I don’t have to sell it after all
@@allanbourner4569 I had some problems when I first installed the MicroSwiss on my Ender5, it was jamming when it cooled down. I could not get the filament out to change rolls or could not get a new print to start. I did some web searching and found suggestions to retract extra filament when a print is done. I experimented with gcode to retract 40 or 50 mm after a print finished. This would allow me to remove the filament to change rolls, but did not work well to print from the same roll. To make a long story short, Kris suggested I change retraction to 6mm at end of print. This seems to fix the jamming at start, but I did have trouble removing a roll. The solution that I found is for PLA to heat the nozzle up to 240 then retract. The Ender 5 PLUS is a little different as there is no fixed program to load or unload filament. I just heat up the hot end to 240 and swap filament..
Super important to install the heat break on the heater block before the nozzle... I didn’t notice because of how fast the video went by and total disaster.. filament leak from the top of the heater block.. got into the screws holding the heater cartridge in and ended up trashing the heater block trying to get those out...
I'm sorry you missed that. I try to always show the best way I know to install things. I hope you got it all sorted out.
I'm aware that this hotend comes with a nozzle but was wondering if you can use the stock nozzle with this upgrade if I had to ?
Thanks for your vids, they are EXCELLENT!
Absolutely! All MK8 nozzles "should" be interchangeable.
I upgraded the hot end and then decided to upgrade the extruder to the Micro Swiss direct drive. Ever since I replaced the extruder the nozzle blocks for a past time. I have altered everything that is supposed to be, esteps etc. have you tried this mod yet? if so what results did you get?
Hello i have a problem, i changed my hotend to all metal hotend in my ender 5 plus, but it prints only when retraction distance in at 0,75mm and it has a lot of stringing, can you help me with that ?
URGENT !!
How does Micro Swiss compare to E3D V6? Never tried the Micro Swiss, but might be a simpler way to go than the V6 as it's closer to stock.
I was planning to run a V6 with titanium heat break and plated copper heater block and nozzles.
I have never done a direct comparison but I have used them both. I would say that they both work well if installed correctly and cooled well. I personally like the Micro Swiss on Creality printers because they install easily without the need for printed mounts. I could go deeper here but that's the brief answer. 😀
@@kerseyfabs Thank you, I'm torn a bit between testing the Micro Swiss or going with what I'm used to. As you say there's a little extra hassle with mounts etc. I'm not sue, but I'd guess the Micro Swiss might just be a tiny bit lighter too.
If it were me, I wouldn't go through the hassle of a V6 unless I wanted something specific like a Volcano.
so how much does nylon cost for a full 1000 gram spool? is it easier to print than ABS> i have an ender 5 and a cr-10 clone i never go hotter than 245 with my stock ends... i did switch to the blue bowden tubes which handle heat better... i just print pla and petg mainly... but a machine that can print nylon may be a great option to have,since nylon is very strong imo... thanks
Found out something interesting. I contacted Micro Swiss to ask if precision thermistors like Slice Engineerings or E3D's PT1000 would fit in the heater block. They replied that it didn't but that you could use the E3D V6 heater block with their hotend which fits them. This is interesting because one of the reasons I wanted keep going with V6 originally was that I wanted to the try their upgraded plated copper heater block and nozzles. Seems trying that is still an option then (better heat conductivity than the Micro Swiss all aluminium heater block?).
Your thoughts on this?
That is interesting. I haven't tried it myself. My thoughts:
- Why do you want a PT1000? What feature of a PT1000 is calling you to that upgrade?
- Same question but with the copper parts.
- Basically, yes, copper is more thermally conductive and should keep your temperatures from fluctuating as much. BUT, this is most necessary when going to higher than normal temperatures for more exotic filaments. At standard temps (
@@kerseyfabs I must confess I'm in the latter category, tinkering for the sake of tinkering. I will really only be doing PLA+ and PETG for the foreseeable future. I guess I'm not looking for higher temps, but precision in every aspect of the build.
Switching thermistors or adding new LCD and mainboard really aren't that viable options until we can compile our own firmwares though I guess.
@@SteinerSE That's right. Not only that but there are plenty of upgrades that will produce better quality long before you get to copper heat blocks and high precision thermistors.
@@kerseyfabs Ordering fittings, capricorn, anti backlash nuts, Th3D lead screw couplings. odd bits and bobs like that too of course.
Does the ender5 pro need a all metal hot end? Because I already bought a ruby nozzle for it from olsson
It doesn't need one in general, it will only need one if you print filaments that require temperatures that are over 245C or so. At that point, the PTFE tuning will start to break down. The ruby nozzle only prevents nozzle wear.
Great video as always
Have you seen (and tried) the new extruder from Micro swiss?
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks! Which extruder are you talking about?
@@kerseyfabs Nerys channel: ua-cam.com/video/09KfP2K7sys/v-deo.html
The Creality hot end only has one grub screw to hold the cartridge and thermistor in as the design of the standard Creality fan shroud makes it impossible for the cartridge to come out
There's actually a grub screw for the heater and a screw for the thermistor. I wasn't suggesting that they could fall out. I was actually trying to say that it made it harder to remove. With the clamp style, you can always open it a bit further for thermal expansion or for "gunk." That was in response to multiple heater cartridges getting stuck, as mine did in this video.
Please no 2 hour videos - Keep breaking them up into logical sections - Thanks for working Micro Swiss it is one of the upgrades I've considered, even if I don't need it yet.
I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching!
So, I may have a unique problem after this upgrade, after installing it, now when it does its bed leveling, after the microswitch detects the bed the bed raises up and hits the nozzle. not only does it hit it, but it keeps going a few mm and tweaks the back of the bed up. almost as if the nozzle is lower then the original. Any suggestions?
If you have a Bltouch, you'll need to adjust your Z offset.
I have a look at all these upgrades and I have to think..... Would it just be better to have put all the money together and buy a more expensive printer from the start
That one always comes up and it's something each person needs to decide. Some people enjoy the customization and upgrade process and would rather do the work as part of the hobby. Others would like to invest a smaller amount up front and upgrade as needed. It's really personal preference. If you'd prefer to have a higher-end machine that's good to go out of the box, feel free to save the pennies for a better machine.
Thank you so much for the video, though just a thought that would have helped me a lot? I came to this video to see the installation, and that part was fast-forwarded so much that even frame by frame didn't help, so now still having to find an installation video..
I'm really sorry to hear that. I don't think I fast forwarded through anything complicated but I'm sorry if you feel you missed something. Is there a specific question I can answer for you?
@@kerseyfabs It was at about the 22 minute mark - I had screwed up my printer (new to this, the original end overflowed, glued everything in place, basically had to change out that entire part of the assembly) so I found this video trying figure out how to fit the parts back together (where to put the sensors, how the screws were supposed to hold what in place, etc). I'm sure once I've done it a few times (hope I don't break it That often but I'm sure I will) I'm sure it will feel easy. It is much appreciated though and I'm ok now - I kept digging around and got it all fixed since then. And again, don't regret watching - the overall video was very informative (really enjoyed it) and it was cool getting a better idea about the different parts and what makes them special
What setup is that for the hotend mounting, looks nothing like the image in the shop of the 5+ which looks more like a standard ender 3.
That's a Hero Me Gen3. You can download it for printing off of Thingiverse. I've covered it in my dedicated cooling review ("The Best Part Cooler...") and in my latest "Ender 5 Plus Upgrades..." video.
@@kerseyfabs Getting to your other videos, just found your channel when researching my potential 5+ purchase.
I currently use the Petsfang on my E3, set up for the V6 and Bondtech in direct mode, and quite happy with it.
@@SteinerSE Welcome!
New sub, great video! Thank you!
Thank you!
@@kerseyfabs I bought a cr10s pro v2 recently as my first 3d printer since I kind of wanted to start with something that I consider to have all the bells and whistles out of the box (with my very limited and inexperienced knowledge of course). Everything was working smoothly for the first couple of weeks and now I cant stop getting a clog in the capricorn tube. Have had printer for around a month and half. Tried taking it apart putting it back together after watching videos on proper procedures. Looking into this hotend as what might be my last hope :,(. Loving the hobby but I havent had a successful print in around 2 weeks now and I'm getting discouraged.
@@kerseyfabs P.S. Sorry for the long winded comment just frustrated.
Ended up with a heated mess on top of the heat block within a week, unfortunately broke my thermistor getting all of it loose....turns out the heatbreak would not go all the way up into the cooling block (which micro Swiss calls “propriety thermal tube/cooling block interface in the cut out picture). I was convinced I did something wrong, but after cleaning everything, after an hour of measuring and scotchbrite all around, I had to use my vice to press the heatbreak home, that isn’t normal is it? I know different metals have different thermal coefficients and expand and contract at different rates, but a vice? (Yes, the heatbreak was installed straight both times, first time by hand)
That's really odd. If you look starting at 22:25, the part that joins the heatsink to the hotend is pretty small and is not that tight until you screw in the grub screw. I can't imagine what happened or why you had an overflow.
an you tell me what your secret is to get prints to stick on glass? best thing i use is glue stick...but its kinda messy... thanks
Clean the bed with dish soap (Dawn) and water. Preferably use a paper towel to wash and dry the glass. Never touch the print area with your fingers. You can dust it as needed with paper towels or clean cloth. This is the way.
I already have a V6 hotend and Bondtech BMG extruder on my Ender 3, would like to move those over (using the Petsfanf for a DD setup using them).
This was informative which is great but please think about getting a lapel mic. Use LUFS loudness scale to match UA-cam’s average per video.
Thanks. I'm always looking on ways to improve. I've used a lapel mic and I have different problems with almost anything I use. I will look into proper loudness.
Kersey Fabrications I’ve always had great success with Audio Technica and Sure mics, not too hard on the pocket book. But yeah, check out some stuff about LUFS and Gain setting while recording. It kind of sounds like your peaking a little bit and I don’t think the room your in helps much as far as reverberation. Lowering the gain should solve most of the issue tho
This was one of my last video with my old camera. With the new setup my audio isn't perfect but I no longer peak. Check out my latest Creality Ender 5 Plus Full Review: ua-cam.com/video/-BFUf8S6-FE/v-deo.html
I'm still playing with microphone setups and figuring out audio normalization.
Thanks to your comments, I went and did my research. The next video, coming out tomorrow, will have much more consistent audio.
Kersey Fabrications right on man!!
Looking for part 2
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/M_IBvRK95vs/v-deo.html
I've seen reviews on the micro swiss website of this, many people saying they had a lot of leaking and/or blockages, more than the standard creality hotend. Have you (or can anyone else) confirm if they've had these issues? Could be dependent on filament type? I'll using PETG
I have had zero clogs in mine that has been the fault of the hotend. Just make sure your fans are working correctly to avoid heat creep and get your retraction settings solid.
What is the green knob on your extruder ?
It's a 3D printed Yoda extruder knob. You can find it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141160
The knob helps manually turning the extruder when it's disengaged.
hi bud what part cooler do you have on there
That's a Hero Me Gen 3. Check out this video for the details: ua-cam.com/video/qW2EEqCh0NI/v-deo.html
hey Kersey No one does nozzle types for certain kits like lets say an example, changing from a stock hotend to an all metal hotend then what changes with that new kit like what type of threads and type of nozzle. etc. Maybe an idea would be a video on that. Unless you already have one somewhere.
Almost all of the Creality hotends use he MK8-style nozzles and most of the mods stick with this to avoid confusion and wasting existing nozzles. If there were to be a change, I would definitely talk about it in the video. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs oh thanks thats very helpful. I didnt know that :) So the microswiss all metal hotend for the ender 5 would use an mk8 for sure?
@@UniversalGamer647 Yes. I'm using the same nozzles on the stock hotend and the all-metal.
@@kerseyfabs ty so much. Thats awesome. Ill be getting an a2 steel nozzle then for my ender 5 so i can start trying out other materials :D. I appreciate your help
Will this Swiss Hot End be compatible with the Ender 5 Plus?
Absolutely. They have the same hotend.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you for swift response, I purchased the unit for my CR10S Pro but I now have an Ender 5 Plus so no need to buy another, thanks
I noticed that on the Micro Swiss website, the CR-10S Pro is a different part. So yours may not fit the Ender 5 Plus OR it may need some modification. I'm not sure since I don't have an S PRO.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you for your reply, I shall now sell the Swiss Hot End, thanks
Allan, I have had a MicroSwiss on my Ender 5 PLUS for over a month, works well. Kris gave me a good suggestion to solve the only problem that I have had, jamming between prints.
Is there room for an abl sensor?
You chould change thermister and heater as well to the higher temp rated ones
Absolutely! I have never gone over 300C, so it hasn't been an issue.
So if I print with PLA only do I really need an all metal hot end? I always print at 215c.
Not from a heat perspective but it does help with changing nozzles. Without the PTFE tube, you don't have to worry about gaps.
@@kerseyfabs I'm thinking about getting an Ender 5 plus or Cr10 V2 pro. The only things holding me back from the Ender is the hot end is not all metal and doesn't come with a silent board stock. I also heard the auto bed leveling wasn't the greatest with the Ender. I really just want to print large prints (helmets and orops) and not have to constantly work on my printer like I did my old FDM that I just scrapped.
I've been having issues with the Microswiss hotend, I beleive it has to do with the Small setscrew that holds the hotend to the heat break. I'm getting some twisting on my hotend that worries me.
It shouldn't be doing that. What's wrong with the set screw? It should require some force to tighten it but not a ton.
@@kerseyfabs I was watching your video again to see if I caught anything I missed, like a flat on the thermal break that prevents rotating. I'll tear it apart some time this week and see what I come up with. Thanks for making these videos and doing the Marlin firmware stuff. I just ordered a SKR Pro V1.2 that I'm excited to seperate my Z-axis and get Pause at layer Functionallity. Not sure if your looking for quick video ideas. I upgraded to the HeroMe Gen 5. This shifted my BLTouch X/Y, which I haven't had any luck getting my offsets to take. I figured its something you ay have done or others might be interesting in. Take Care!
I have a Pro V1.2 I plan to do a video on if I can find the time. If you're still using stock firmware then it's not possible without recompiling. If you'd like to try and compile your own, you can modify my firmware here: github.com/KerseyFabrications/marlin_e5p
This section:
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -45 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
I wonder (it's a curse) why this device is called "all metal". Does that mean there are equivalent devices made from NON-metal? Certainly not plastic. Maybe a ceramic heat break??? If the heat break is intended to block the thermal path above the heat block/nozzle then why not give it more thermal mass by making it bigger and/or longer. I would think the bigger the better. Right now it appears compactness is the primary criteria. Also, the original heatsink has many more cooling fins than it's replacement, hence more surface area to radiate heat. I'm not a thermal engineer but some of these things seem pretty intuitive.
The not all-metal hotends have a PTFE tube on the inside that guide the filament to the melt zone. That's why they're no all metal. Greater thermal mass would transfer more heat to the heatsink. We want to stop that. On the higher-end parts, we use titanium which does not conduct heat as well. Keep in mind it has to be strong, not brittle.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, ceramic is more brittle than titanium but there are some pretty tough ceramic composites today and I don't see that whole assembly taking much abuse anyway. Maybe I'll feel differently when I actually have a printer.
Hello I have a problem with my ender 5 plus... I attached a google drive link below for video and it seems to not be clogged, but the gear pushing the filament keeps clicking and trying to push the filament. As you can see in the video the filament is still coming out. I tried high temperatures and low temperatures, but same thing. I even tried slow print speeds, different filaments etc. Any ideas?
drive.google.com/file/d/1b52kiUrN16CQLzWIVvmBsJYuMtMSM5Bl/view?usp=sharing
Is there a way you can help me @Kersey Fabrications? Thanks!!
Will this work for the Ender 5 plus?
Yes! I have one on both of mine.
@@kerseyfabs have you had any issues with your Bl touch? Mine keeps flashing red...(i checked all wiring, replaced plunger, and have the current firmware, on a v2.2 board)..very frustrating.
Where’s part 2
I'm glad you found it.
Hi! I hope you can give me some clue of what’s its going on with my settings. I have ender 5 pro, skr mini e3 v2, tft 35, and i just installed a micro swiss exactly as you do. Problem its that now the new hotend wont get warm. If i use a hotgun blower the temperature raise as should and i see that in the display. But if a preheat to 200 or any other, the display shows that the heater its raising but i do not feel that in the hotend. Its still cold even the display says its 200. Before installed the micro swiss was working perfectly.
Are you saying that it says it's at 200C but it doesn't feel like it? If you see it going up then something is getting hot.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, right now i have Pid tuned a few times to see if its respons to somthing (sorry my english). In the display says now 200/200, i have tft35, but my hotgun say its 35C in the nozzle (When i say hotgun i mean the gun thats checks the temp of the wall or something)
@@kerseyfabs its crazy. display says 200/200 and i can touch my hotend..i dont get it
Is the bed at 200C??? 😳
@@kerseyfabs no. The bed its off. I did not started the heat on bed. only hotend
If you made that heatsink shorter and out of a small block of granite or marble, even glass, you could do away with the heat sink finning and the cooling fan too as no heat will transfer up the stone material.
The heat block could be attached to the bottom of the stone block with 2 screws....easy done, nothing fantastic about that.
I'm not so sure that you want that. You need to wick the heat away from the heatblock or it will continue to heat and possibly heat out of control. Otherwise you could just insulate a small screw and call it done.
@@kerseyfabs The heat level is controlled by the thermistor and the build up is only as much as the filament leaves behind as it melts and exits the nozzle taking the heat with it.
I would have to wonder how much heat would flow up the T1 heat break and into the finned heatsink compared to the stainless steel one with a finned heat sink.....it might be minimal gains for difficult machining with T1.
"HE IS HIGH" Change my mind.
He reads the comments to his videos too. No, I don't even know where to buy anything to get high on. 😉
@@kerseyfabs Champ. Really like the video. Watched the whole thing now giving it a like. Really a good video breaking down why you would change hot ends.
Thanks Cody! I appreciate it.
10.00 dollar hot ends are junk. Used them used a micro swiss and haven't touched it in months. The ender 3 printer prints 24 7 most of the time. Putting one on my CR-10S as I type this.
i would be best to see a $8 all metal hotend compared to a micro swiss... there are a bunch of them... people really don't have money to spend 8x the cost for a part unless it is much better performance wise... no one cares how its made really just as long as it works as well... most of us have dremel tool etc and can tweak a part to work if necessary...
I have one I bought I while back. When I get time, I will give it a shot!
@@kerseyfabs i have 2 of them and they look very well made also..exactly like the swiss you showed except for the cut in heater block. i paid 12.50 for both shipped 6 months ago,,, i installed one yesterday and it clogged so i took it off and used parts i had and installed a standard one... it was great...i did use an old file with the all metal since i have no pc at this time only a chromebook so no cura anymore..
Worst hotend ever made. Never seen or used one which could finish a print. 100% clogged.
That sucks man! I have one on all of my Creality printers I regularly use and it's one of my favorite upgrades.
@@kerseyfabs i have not even printed anything since i have these (2-3 months now). not a single one came out at all. 2nd, 3rd layer, and totally clogged. i just gave up on cleaning it. so not printing at all until my standard creality hotend comes.
All that babbling just to fast forward and play shitty music over the actual swap...