Selecting Truck Camper Hitch Extension Length | A Simple Method
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- I show a simple and reliable method to determine the required length for a hitch extension needed for a pickup truck with a loaded truck camper that extends beyond the back of the bed.
Truck: 2014 RAM 3500 DRW, Crew Cab, long bed, 4x4, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel
Truck Camper: 2015 Arctic Fox 990 - Northwood Manufacturing
Receiver: Torklift SuperHitch Original (20K)
Extension: Torklift 28" SuperTruss
Ball Mount: 4" drop with a 2" ball
Trailer: 18' Utility Trailer
Video gear:
Canon M50 with 15-45mm Kit lens
Futga Variable ND Filter
Boya BY-M1 Lavalier mic
K&F Concept TM2534T tripod
Simple, yet excellent advice. Clear spoken and well explained. 👍🏻🙂
Jaydon - Thank you for the feedback! I appreciate it.
That was a very useful video.
Thanks Don, I'm glad you liked it!
Excellent video! I have my trailer positioned exactly about where yours is, with enough room to drop the Fox Landing and not have to disconnect the trailer when I'm camped.
Thank you for the reply. It’s nice to be able to access the camper without dropping the trailer. The Fox Landing is designed nicely for this.
Excellent video. Thanks
Greg - I'm happy to hear you found this useful. Thanks for taking the time to let me know!
Thank you Sir!
You are welcome!
LOL! Non-optional, optional Fox Landing....
I know what you mean.... I'm looking for a camper at the moment, that non-optional option package is also not included in the camper dry weight. A guy needs to add an additional 600 pounds just for that.
Dry-weight discrepancies seem to be an issue with most (if not all) truck camper manufacturers. The non-optional option is kinda weird. I have no idea why they play these games.
Thanks for the comment!
Is that extension rated for 500 pound tongue weight as well? How does it tow all together? Seems like a long extension to me, maybe it will bend down?
According to the TorkLift web site:
"Weight carrying capacity on 48” extension, 6,000 lb. pull, 600 lb. tongue wt."
See: www.torklift.com/rv/supertruss
I do not see a listing for tongue-weight for the shorter extensions, but I would expect the shorter the extension the higher the tongue weight capacity.
I've towed a 1994 Toyota PU on the trailer shown in this video from California to North Carolina. It worked perfectly and without any bending.
As TorkLift suggests - consult with your dealer if you are unsure.
Thank you for posting!
That jackstand should be a side mounted pivoting unit. It creates unnecessary potential problems when in a jacknife scenario.
I've considered replacing my jack with a pivoting type - but more to keep from dragging the jack occasionally on the ground. I just haven't gotten around do it. Thanks!
will the extension cause the trailer to be more vulnerable to the trailer swaying ? thank you
Unfortunately yes! Any additional length is bound to add some flex to the system. That said, it will all depend upon the tow vehicle, the trailer and the ratio of the load on the trailer versus the weight and stability of the tow vehicle. In my particular case, the tow vehicle (with our camper load) was significantly heavier than the trailer with load (a 1994 Toyota 4x4 pickup or my tractor) - plus our trailer has a long tongue and tows and tracks very well. I have not detected any additional sway - but I AM increasing my risk when towing.
I can not provide any additional guidance I'm afraid - other than to suggest you try it and see. Of course, start-out slow and be safe!
@@kevintaberski4249 Thank you
Did you have to remove the factory truck hitch and purchase and install the new hitch to fit the super truss extension? I’m looking to do the same to tow antique tractor to shows or my horses to trails to ride.
Carrie - The TorkLift "SuperTruss" is an extension specifically tailored for use with a TorkLift "SuperHitch". The SuperHitch is installed in addition to the factory hitch - see: www.torklift.com/rv/superhitch
FWIW - I also haul a tractor - though not quite an antique - a 1953 Ford NAA or "Golden Jubilee".
Well done video. I'm trying to decide between a single wheel 1 ton and a dually hauling a similar size and weight camper and 7,000 lb trailer like you, do you think I could get a way with a single rear wheel 1 ton? I hate driving a dually and this will be my daily driver. Thanks in advance.
To 'D' or not to 'D', that is the question! Boy, this is a heavily debated and contentious question. Obviously, I'm in the dually camp - so I'm biased. I totally understand the issue with the extra width of a dually - plus the length if also a full-size bed and a 4-door. That said, in an attempt to be unbiased, you need to add-up the weights, then choose accordingly and responsibly. Based on what you have stated "hauling a similar size and weight camper and 7,000 lb trailer like you", I think you HAVE to conclude you NEED a dually. I submit - you do - and you will wish you had if you don't. FWIW - I am over GVWR (14,000#) with my camper and trailer and right there without the trailer! Just my 2 cents! Thanks for the comment and good luck!
@@kevintaberski4249 Thanks for responding. Do you use air bags, Sumo Springs or some other type of suspension assist? If so, please relay your likes and dislikes.
@@jcf6597 You're welcome - I try to respond to all questions. I installed TorkLift Lower StableLoads - which I like real-well - simply because they do what I need them to do! I drove my truck (2014 RAM 3500) with my camper (2015 AF990) for a year without anything. The only issues were people flashing their high-beams at me and always needing to block the rear-wheels while camping - otherwise it wasn't too bad - no handling issues that I recall. The Lower StableLoads fixed both issues. From the forums I've read, SRW trucks require more upgrades. There is much information/discussion about this on the internet. I follow a Facebook group dedicated to Northwood Manufacturing (Arctic Fox and Wolf Creek Truck Campers) - I expect there are forums dedicated to the brand of camper you are considering. Tires and wheels, sway-bays, air-bags, helper springs and so on are all options.
How much does that affect your tongue weight?
John - you need to know the dimensions of your truck: wheel-base, rear axle to hitch (pin) and ball mount pin to ball. Then you can calculate the forces with and without the hitch extension to understand the additional load placed on the rear axle as a result of adding an extension and the reduction of load placed on the front axle resulting from the addition of a hitch extension. For my truck - a 2014 RAM Crew-Cab with a 28" extension, the math works out that the tongue weight at the ball translates to a 1.5X increase at the rear axle and .5X reduction to the front axle. Without the hitch extension, it's approximately 1.33x down at the rear and .33x up on the front. So, for every 100# of tongue weight, the rear axle see 150# with the 28" hitch extension, but only 133# without - an increase of 17# or a 12.7% increase in effective tongue weight. I hope this helps!