Thank you, sir. That is extremely helpful, especially the way you describe HOW the edges are ground, not just their shape. Since I have multiple types of edged tools for numerous different tasks, understanding edge geometry is fundamental. I just had a couple of, "Oh, now I get it!" moments.
Thank you so much. This video really helped me understand the issues I had with my decade old kitchen knife. I was able to re-profile the edge and bring it back to shape. It now performs as good as new, if not better.
Really good explanations about the edge geometry and secondary bevel. I wish all knife manufactures would list this when they sell knifes especially on line it is not easy to see this from just a side picture with no profile. Best Regards Alex
Thank you for making simple explanation to the grinds and also explaining a sharp and dull blade; It was VERY informative. By the way ....Yes, it was Very Interesting
Hi Mike. Yeah, what you say makes sense, especially what you say about the much-maligned hollow grind. When I make my hollow grind blades I grind more steeply than you depict on your illustration - about 1/3 of the way up to the back of the blade. This creates a steeper angle down towards the secondary bevel at the edge and a stronger edge. However it also gets thicker quicker with prolonged sharpening (as you described for the convex grind), and that is a consideration. So, it becomes very important to decide exactly what the PRIMARY purpose of the intended knife is, before deciding on the edge geometry (the point you made). For heavy work I would use thicker steel and make the primary grind narrower and steeper, while for a food prep or butchering knife I would use much thinner steel, probably a flat (or hollow grind going far up the blade) and a flat angle, so one can sharpen it far longer into the life of the blade. The Scandi grind still confuses me. The stated intended purpose is "bushcrafting" - whatever that is. Yet, it is claimed that Scandi grind is King in two main areas - feathersticking and batoning. Now, in my mind why would one use a single tool for two such disparate tasks? For effortless batoning, a large thick blade with a steep grind makes far more sense and would require a fraction of the effort. For feathersticking a sharp blade is required where one needs to be close to the action, so a small blade is better, like for intricate carving. Why make a knife that falls between these two stools? Weight? One hears that an axe and a Scandi knife are all you need. How about a folding saw, a big knife and a small carving knife instead, which could possibly be the lighter option, and still do everything the other could. In the final analysis then, I guess it depends on the individual, and what they like doing. Thanks for an interesting talk.
It definitely makes sense . I like a hollow grind better for meat and food prep . Skinning etc.. but prefer flat or scandi for wittling i get better control . and a convex on a machete or a large chopping and batoning knife for splitting wood . A scandi grind splits small pieces of wood better than a flat grind since it is thicker where the grind begins and makes the knife a little stronger than a flat grind. Hollow grinds on smaller knives is usually too fragile for hard uses but like you said you can sharpen it longer with out reprofiling
For someone like myself new to knifes and associated videos,this has been a great help in understanding the different grind types,so do you match certain types of knife design to a certain grind or can any grind go with any knife?. Any advice you can give will be a great help,thanks Russ
It is usually just a matter of personal preference or what the customer wants. If I am making a period piece I might do a flat or convex grind rather than a hollow grind as hollow grinds were not as common in the 1800s. And as I said in the video a convex grind is better suited to a heavy chopper.
When choosing blade geometry I would mostly care about resistance and aesthetics. Any blade can be sharpened more than enough really. Lately I bought a flat bar of steel to make a knife and I accidentally cut myself with it. Surprised, I did the shaving test, and one of the ~90 degrees angle of that flat bar was easly shaving hairs off my forearm. :)
+Orang Pendek It is really matter of personal preference . Others may disagree with me but I prefer a hollow grind for most applications because I believe it performs better.
A scandi does not have a secondary bevel but a sabre does .When you sharpen a scandi you lay the whole primary bevel down on the stone and the sharpening angle is already preset for you . When you sharpen a sabre you sharpen the small secondary bevel .
Saber grind was the one with the words primary bevel and secondary bevel . The primary bevel goes up about half way , sometimes slightly higher or lower , but never the whole way up . It also has a small secondary bevel ( edge bevel ) that you sharpen .
Thank you, sir. That is extremely helpful, especially the way you describe HOW the edges are ground, not just their shape. Since I have multiple types of edged tools for numerous different tasks, understanding edge geometry is fundamental. I just had a couple of, "Oh, now I get it!" moments.
Thank you so much. This video really helped me understand the issues I had with my decade old kitchen knife. I was able to re-profile the edge and bring it back to shape. It now performs as good as new, if not better.
Very clear explanation on these different knife grinds, another great teaching video. Thank you.
Really good explanations about the edge geometry and secondary bevel. I wish all knife manufactures would list this when they sell knifes especially on line it is not easy to see this from just a side picture with no profile.
Best Regards
Alex
Another great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks Mike, I have been researching what hollow ground means and I couldn't ask for better examples.
As always Mike , a very helpful video, thanks .
Good video.Lots of info. It helped me out. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Sir, just getting into sharpening. I've been hearing all these terms and wondering exactly what they mean. Very informative.
This answered a lot of questions I had. Thank you!!!
Thank you for making simple explanation to the grinds and also explaining a sharp and dull blade; It was VERY informative. By the way ....Yes, it was Very Interesting
Thank you for your time and a great explanation
Very concise and helpful. Thank you!
Glad you like the consistency of hollow grinds when wearing up, the exact same reason I do.
Thanks so much - extremely helpful!
Thank you very much for making this video, it was very informative.
Thank you again mike, you give a great perspective on edge geometry. Glad to see you're doin okay and still making videos, all the best.
One good thing about scandi grinds is that the angle of the edge never changes, no matter how many times you sharpen them!
Hi Mike. Yeah, what you say makes sense, especially what you say about the much-maligned hollow grind. When I make my hollow grind blades I grind more steeply than you depict on your illustration - about 1/3 of the way up to the back of the blade. This creates a steeper angle down towards the secondary bevel at the edge and a stronger edge. However it also gets thicker quicker with prolonged sharpening (as you described for the convex grind), and that is a consideration. So, it becomes very important to decide exactly what the PRIMARY purpose of the intended knife is, before deciding on the edge geometry (the point you made). For heavy work I would use thicker steel and make the primary grind narrower and steeper, while for a food prep or butchering knife I would use much thinner steel, probably a flat (or hollow grind going far up the blade) and a flat angle, so one can sharpen it far longer into the life of the blade. The Scandi grind still confuses me. The stated intended purpose is "bushcrafting" - whatever that is. Yet, it is claimed that Scandi grind is King in two main areas - feathersticking and batoning. Now, in my mind why would one use a single tool for two such disparate tasks? For effortless batoning, a large thick blade with a steep grind makes far more sense and would require a fraction of the effort. For feathersticking a sharp blade is required where one needs to be close to the action, so a small blade is better, like for intricate carving. Why make a knife that falls between these two stools? Weight? One hears that an axe and a Scandi knife are all you need. How about a folding saw, a big knife and a small carving knife instead, which could possibly be the lighter option, and still do everything the other could. In the final analysis then, I guess it depends on the individual, and what they like doing. Thanks for an interesting talk.
Great video brother,thanks
It definitely makes sense . I like a hollow grind better for meat and food prep . Skinning etc.. but prefer flat or scandi for wittling i get better control . and a convex on a machete or a large chopping and batoning knife for splitting wood . A scandi grind splits small pieces of wood better than a flat grind since it is thicker where the grind begins and makes the knife a little stronger than a flat grind. Hollow grinds on smaller knives is usually too fragile for hard uses but like you said you can sharpen it longer with out reprofiling
Great video!
Great information
Well done. Thank you.
Is the best grind for a chef's knife a Scandi Grind? It seems like it might be, like a 10° or a 15° grind. Trying to make one right now.
Thanks for the reply much appreciated, a.t.b.Russ
Thisis good for me thank you
For someone like myself new to knifes and associated videos,this has been a great help in understanding the different grind types,so do you match certain types of knife design to a certain grind or can any grind go with any knife?. Any advice you can give will be a great help,thanks Russ
It is usually just a matter of personal preference or what the customer wants. If I am making a period piece I might do a flat or convex grind rather than a hollow grind as hollow grinds were not as common in the 1800s. And as I said in the video a convex grind is better suited to a heavy chopper.
When choosing blade geometry I would mostly care about resistance and aesthetics. Any blade can be sharpened more than enough really. Lately I bought a flat bar of steel to make a knife and I accidentally cut myself with it. Surprised, I did the shaving test, and one of the ~90 degrees angle of that flat bar was easly shaving hairs off my forearm. :)
One side of the blade is about 45 degrees and other is more straight. Is it quality control issue and is it fixable.
What would be the best blade geometry for a stainless hunting knife?
+Orang Pendek It is really matter of personal preference . Others may disagree with me but I prefer a hollow grind for most applications because I believe it performs better.
🤠👍
The japanese tend to hollow out the back of a chisel grind to help with resistence and food sticking to blade.
Hi , what is an appleseed edge ?
Usually all knives have a secondary bevel, except scandi grind and razor blades, right?
No secondary bevel on chisel grind or convex grind either
What's the difference between scandi and sabre grinds?
A scandi does not have a secondary bevel but a sabre does .When you sharpen a scandi you lay the whole primary bevel down on the stone and the sharpening angle is already preset for you . When you sharpen a sabre you sharpen the small secondary bevel .
And wich is a saber grind?
Saber grind was the one with the words primary bevel and secondary bevel . The primary bevel goes up about half way , sometimes slightly higher or lower , but never the whole way up . It also has a small secondary bevel ( edge bevel ) that you sharpen .