It would be really interesting to see the expensive peba compared to the stuff on aliexpress that’s less than half the price ? Might be worth investigating. Thanks again for your hard work on this project
I would like to see you test Protopasta's flexible TPE. It was just released as an experimental filament in their Endless Exploration EX3 and shows good rebound energy in the video for their associated blog.
it looks like atarxia made a specific filament for the basketball Bouncy B-Flexible PLA Filament 1.75mm, Sports Flexible 3D Printer Filament 5X Longer Stretch,
You could use PVA or similar water-dissolvable filament as the support structure. With that, it is easy to get rid of the support smoothly. But of course, you have to have a multi-material printer...
Thanks so much, I'm going to try to make some of these for my school to try out. I'm a geometry teacher, so this will be so fun for the students to learn about the shape and bounce. Will give you guys updates on how it goes!
Man this is some great work :D 100% gonna try making one.. one day. It's such an awesome thing to make too. Thank you for all your hard work that goes into this :D
@makeitlabchannel I ordered the Ataraxia Flex Pla orange, and I'll be subjecting it to a full game! I hope to annealing one as well! I'll make a video and let you know!
finished printing in peba, bounces well and very durable. Thanks for all your hard work! Only thing i changed is adding a raft of a few layers because the last basketball design i printed in peba came out kind of browned on the bottom from being on that hot build plate for so long. What software did you use to model?
@@AlexMccawley glad it turned out well! That is a good idea with the raft. Also, I designed the basketball with Blender - I thought I would have to learn Fusion 360 to make it but turns out you can just fine with Blender 😁
Thank you so much for actually providing the 3mf. You saved me like 20 minutes worth of support painting I did with the models i've been using before. Edit: I want to try using a 0.6mm nozzle. Do you think that would work too?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and replying back. I was wondering if you could try printing in overture super pla +. I have printed other basket ball models in this filament that have worked but broke later on.
@@inventor4life hey there, I have actually printed a few in Overture Super PLA+, and they have unfortunately all cracked. I do want to try coating it in 3d gloop like uncle Jesse did to see if that will work. Here is a video if interested: ua-cam.com/video/QysYjy96pLI/v-deo.htmlsi=r1yF7zr8IxSR_GYh
Hey, what software did u use at 6:28? I want to use this and usually use Ultimaker Cura (i'm a beginner) but I want to get the print settings right soooo
Hey there, I was using a software called Bambu Studio. It is the go-to slicer for Bambu Lab printers, but I have heard you can set it up for non-Bambu Lab printers too, but I have not tried this yet
As always your work is much appreciated.. I actually really want to try this but I am waiting for your design and my new enclosed 3d printer to show up.. will be curious to see how things keep developing for you in the meantime!
@@TheSucc33d thanks! my models for peba and flex pla are released, but I will keep testing and trying other filaments to keep creating more models for the filaments that are worth it 😁
@Edgar-Egg I have seen others have success scaling this ball down by enough to fit on the mini, but scaling it down could affect the durability. I might try to design a file for smaller printers soon
@@mythierd6278 I have pretty much zero experience with flashforges, but I made a video about my settings/setup for printing the airless basketballs, maybe it will help. I will always try to answer any specific questions though: ua-cam.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/v-deo.html
Printing the panels separately then stitching them together might make them stronger. literally stitch them at the thick edges of the panels with rubber cement.
I suggest you take the extra step to design custom supports for this. so you're not depending on the slicers support generation and the support removal will be easier making the final product come out more consistent.
@@MatthewLiguori thank you! The only issue is every time I have tried flex pla or peba in the AMS it has caused big issues. If I could figure that out it would be so much easier to remove those supports lol
Their Amazon page states that it is compatible with printers without enclosures, and I print mine with the door open on the Bambu Lab, so I don't think an enclosure is required
Quick question guys, i am going to pull the trigger on peba filament however i noticed that they are only available in 500gms spools, dod you guys have to buy 2 of them to complete the ball? Of you have to get 2, how to you change mid print to the other spool?
@@alitechno hey there, that is correct, I had to buy 2 spools to have enough peba for the basketball. Also, to switch the spools, I had to follow the end of the 1st spool with the beginning of the 2nd spool while it is printing. It would probably be fine it you wait until it runs out and then load the new spool/resume the print after. I explain all of this in my other video here: ua-cam.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/v-deo.html
printed one on my X1C in peba-s and it turned out incredible! support was relatively easy to remove with pliers and a sharp knife. It bounces great, love the feel and sound. throw it with full force against wall and easily survived that. Crazy how strong it seem to be. Thank you so much for all your effort!!!!
@@MakerDad Glad to hear it turned out well! Mine is still holding up and still bounces better than any filament I have tried - hope yours holds up as well 😁
@@makeitlabchannel Was thinking about increasing the Top-Z Distance of the support to object interface from 0.2 to 0.22. To see how it affects support removal. Will let you know.
Awesome video man! How many filament do I need to print the ball? I want to use the Kimya PEBA-S.Also do you have a recommendation on dying the ball after printing it?
Thank you! If you are using the Kimya PEBA-S, you will need 2 rolls of the 500 grams as you will use a total of about 640 (including supports). I am currently looking into dying the ball - I purchased a dye off of Amazon and I will try it out soon but new territory for me 😁
@@CalebPham-sz5sj hey there, to account for that, I mention in the settings that I add an extra top layer but only to the top. This seems to help keep the bounce the same around the whole ball
@@CalebPham-sz5sj I was reading that you can use Bambu Studio for Prusa, you just have to set up a printer profile for your printer. The settings might also be in the Prusa Slicer, just maybe hidden from view and have to be activated to view like Cura?
thanks you so much for your help and one last question i have flashforge flex pla from amazon and i was wondering if i should use that or use the other flex pla that you recommend
@@CalebPham-sz5sj I have not tested the flashforge flex pla yet so I am not sure how well it prints/how close to the NBA weight it would be, but I have heard from others that it works well
I mean PET, not PETG, specifically. the original bouncy bottle plastic. you could probably easily cast PET domes. maybe PETG-carbon filament reinforced might do the trick.
@makeitlabchannel Great! I will wait for updates. I would really like to print such a basketball, but with the very high price for the PEBA filament i am waiting until I know everything will be working perfectly. 🙈
@@oclk8650 just tested their durability yesterday, so I should have a video out this week hopefully. In a nutshell, I didn't notice a difference in durability or bounce, but it cuts the print time by a lot - shaves off days. The only negative I can see is that the larger layer lines are more visible but that isn't a big deal for me
@@makeitlabchannel Sorry for the late reply, but do you think some type of silicone coating would work? also, have you tried TPC? I have no idea if it would bounce or not but it may be worth a shot!
@@benon3d My first thought was maybe spraying it with something like Flex Seal, but it would add a bit of weight and could affect the bounce. Worth a try though. There are also dyes and paints that might help with this and change the color too. TPC is on my try list, and I have some that I will try printing soon because others have had good results with it. Lots to try!
It may sound stupid, but maybe try making a lightweight PEBA model, and coat it in flex seal? Or maybe even try regular PLA with 3dgloop like uncle jessy did, but then to dry it off design some type of thing that fills each hole in the basketball so that no gloop can cure inside the holes and make it ugly. Maybe from there you could coat it in a dye to hide the bubbles. Also, another idea i had was if you could possibly melt a bunch of 60a tpe filament and coat a PETG basketball in that? The possibilities are almost endless. Who knows? Maybe someone will melt real basketball rubber into a filalment and extrude that!
@@benon3d thank you! It depends on the filament. I have printed the flex PLA very fast, as fast as regular pla, but the problem is it will sacrifice the adhesion between the layer lines and you will probably get less durability out of the ball, although annealing the ball might counteract it. With peba, I only printed it at 60 mm/s max (as they recommend).
This Maybe a dumb question so if I use the file in the video description it'll have the bottom support settings and no support on top I watched the video and confused because I'm very new to 3d printing Also to be sure which tier is for tbe commercial use
@@OfficalMr_Turkey what printer will you be using? If you are using a Bambu Lab printer with Bambu Studio, you can download the 3mf file and it will import all of the settings you need. It will be different if you are not using a Bambu Lab printer. I would also recommend printing some other things first before the basketball for practice but up to you 😁
@@OfficalMr_Turkey We have a commercial tier that is $5 per month that allows for commercial sale of the physical prints - commercial selling is only through the commercial tier
@makeitlabchannel maybe present what you've got to some of the big brains in the community and see if they have any ideas for improvement. Someone will have some hidden setting to try I'm sure.
Another quick question guys, I am giving it a go with the flex PLA filament which suggests a 0.6mm nozzle, however I noticed this after I started my 4 day print with a 0.4 nozzle. Can you please let me know if you printed this with 0.6 or 0.4? Much appreciated.
@@alitechno Yeah I read that they recommend a 0.6 nozzle, but I have only used a 0.4 nozzle on all of the basketballs I have printed and it has worked great for me 😁
Hey there, I think if you use the right settings and print it slow it would work, but since the build plate is 225 x 225 you will have to scale the ball down a bit.
@@lorenzo-f5p I just looked at the density of tpu, and the closest one would be the flex pla, although it probably needs it's own model to be the right around 625 grams
@@Return_To_Sender man I want that to work, but the peba and flex pla don't play nice with the AMS every time I have tried. If I could figure that out it would make it so much easier 😁
I sent you an email but when sliced, Bambu predicts I will use 564g of filament for the model itself which is considerably lower than yours. Any ideas? Has anyone else ran across discrepancy? Oh, thanks SO MUCH for doing this, I have been patiently waiting for the GOD ROLL on Airless Basketball model!
@@MrSlashKiller even the 3mf? Interesting. As long as the diameter/walls/% infill etc all match, the final print should be right around 625 grams. Let me know if there is any way I can help
@@makeitlabchannelFor some reason my email didn't show 3mf attachments on my phone so I downloaded to PC and all good now. Later I will disect the data and see where my original numbers were off. You're very kind to do that for us. Thanks again. I am about to print and remembered I might need to dry the filament. Did you run it through on a just opened sealed bag from manufacturer or just print immediately print from dryer?
@@MrSlashKiller glad to hear it! The first peba ball I printed I just opened straight from the sealed package and put it into the dryer, and then printed it right always from the dryer to the printer. The other ones I printed I used already-opened peba, but I dried it for about 6 hours on 50C first before printing, and dried the filament all the way through printing on all of them. Hope it works well!
you gota do B-FPLA its the absolute best for this. a custom B-FPLA file would be epic! Specifically the ATARAXIA ART brand. that's the one I have tested
@makeitlabchannel it's amazing! Bounce is amazing. Feel is awesome, and it's just about indestructible, o been trying to brake one of my balls and they don't, even when playing soccer with them. I am going to be bummed if it's unavailable for long. I'll make a video and post it on my you tube channel about it and the last ball I made with it
@makeitlabchannel I printed the peba ball with your new model: ua-cam.com/video/eaY5KMYub9o/v-deo.html Did your peba ball hold up? Mine was much stronger than the other models, and never cracked from dribbling but after 30m of shooting hoops it broke in half on the layer lines, I think the higher drops did it on eventually. I was thinking of doing tpc since that was stronger than the peba on the other balls(though not as bouncy) curious if yours held up, I printed with your settings.
So you understand that the goal of this video series is to find the best filament which matches a real basketball / the Wilson 3d Basketball, Right? So why would using cheap filament contribute to this goal? The filament which is now used, is used because other filament didn’t work
OK!!! Amazing model! You are amazing! But get this! Right off the bat i spotted something! you will immediately need to change an reopen it to the public!!! I will email you a very important video showing what i found...
@@denizhernandez2451 they just mentioned that the way I have the seams (black lines) for the basketball might be a weakness in the model, but I set it up the way I did to not be a weak point like the other models I have tried. All that I have printed and tested are still holding strong 😁
@@makeitlabchannel I was in the initial round of testing when party lime was doing his models. I bought enough carbon fibre tpu to do one ball. Waiting on a good model.
Nice job, but it's technically incorrect. As is every other 3D model of an airless basketball that I could find online (except the real Wilson - which is correct). Easy to fix, though. Rotate the ball such that the seams are horizontal. Cut the model in half perpendicular to the seams, rotate the cut end 90°, and stick it back together. If your hexagonal holes are symmetrical either side of center, it will go back together just fine. if not, then the holes will get messed up. Real [leather] basketballs are made from just one pattern that's mirror imaged [so technically 2 patterns, I suppose]. One end of the pattern curves down to a point. The other end is also curved, but ends in a vertical cut. Sort of looks vaguely like 1/2 of a vertically sliced bowling pin. Your design (and everyone else's) would require 2 different patterns. One pattern would have points on both ends, the other would have vertical cuts on both ends. Sort of looks correct, but not really. You can also make an "impossible" basketball. Cut the ball as described above, but only rotate it 45°, and stick it back together. If the model is correct, the seams will still line up, but it couldn't actually be made from leather. At first glance, it looks normal, but will mess with your mind if you study it closely - sort of like the basketball version of a Penrose Staircase.
What filaments should we try next?
It would be really interesting to see the expensive peba compared to the stuff on aliexpress that’s less than half the price ? Might be worth investigating. Thanks again for your hard work on this project
I would like to see you test Protopasta's flexible TPE. It was just released as an experimental filament in their Endless Exploration EX3 and shows good rebound energy in the video for their associated blog.
@@zachary_hughes oh I will have to find this cheap peba and test it lol
@@JohnWDykes I will definitely look into testing this!
it looks like atarxia made a specific filament for the basketball Bouncy B-Flexible PLA Filament 1.75mm, Sports Flexible 3D Printer Filament 5X Longer Stretch,
Man you are a SAINT doing all this work for us!
@@150nitrodude Just glad that it is hopefully helping people 😁
You could use PVA or similar water-dissolvable filament as the support structure. With that, it is easy to get rid of the support smoothly. But of course, you have to have a multi-material printer...
That would make it a lot better, but yes I might have to invest first 😁
Thanks so much, I'm going to try to make some of these for my school to try out. I'm a geometry teacher, so this will be so fun for the students to learn about the shape and bounce. Will give you guys updates on how it goes!
@@barry-allan sounds great!
I just ordered PEBA filament 3 days ago, so I can't wait to try this model.
A big thank you for sharing!🙏
@@sai7128 hope it prints well for you!
@@makeitlabchannel It printed beautifully!
The bounce and durability are amazing.
I appreciate your works.🫶
@@sai7128 very glad to hear it! Mine is still bouncing strong - hope yours keeps holding up!
Man this is some great work :D 100% gonna try making one.. one day. It's such an awesome thing to make too. Thank you for all your hard work that goes into this :D
@@88Spint much appreciated!
I'm so stoked on this! I'll be printing this in peba as soon as i can manage to. I'll let you know how it goes
@@AlexMccawley sounds good!
@makeitlabchannel I ordered the Ataraxia Flex Pla orange, and I'll be subjecting it to a full game! I hope to annealing one as well! I'll make a video and let you know!
@@ElPresidenteBuzzard sounds awesome, would love to see it!
finished printing in peba, bounces well and very durable. Thanks for all your hard work! Only thing i changed is adding a raft of a few layers because the last basketball design i printed in peba came out kind of browned on the bottom from being on that hot build plate for so long. What software did you use to model?
@@AlexMccawley glad it turned out well! That is a good idea with the raft. Also, I designed the basketball with Blender - I thought I would have to learn Fusion 360 to make it but turns out you can just fine with Blender 😁
Thank you so much for actually providing the 3mf. You saved me like 20 minutes worth of support painting I did with the models i've been using before. Edit: I want to try using a 0.6mm nozzle. Do you think that would work too?
@@cakey2252 no problem, hope it prints well!
Have you tried printing it with the bigger nozzle? How long was the printing time?
This is amazing man can't wait to try it! Keep us posted if the durability keeps up.
@@CCBCodeMonkey will do! Still holding up and I have tried to dribble it every day. I am curious to see how it holds up in the long run though
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and replying back. I was wondering if you could try printing in overture super pla +. I have printed other basket ball models in this filament that have worked but broke later on.
@@inventor4life hey there, I have actually printed a few in Overture Super PLA+, and they have unfortunately all cracked. I do want to try coating it in 3d gloop like uncle Jesse did to see if that will work. Here is a video if interested: ua-cam.com/video/QysYjy96pLI/v-deo.htmlsi=r1yF7zr8IxSR_GYh
Hey, what software did u use at 6:28? I want to use this and usually use Ultimaker Cura (i'm a beginner) but I want to get the print settings right soooo
Hey there, I was using a software called Bambu Studio. It is the go-to slicer for Bambu Lab printers, but I have heard you can set it up for non-Bambu Lab printers too, but I have not tried this yet
I really appreciate all the effort you are putting into this project. Thank you for all your hard work :)
Appreciate it, and hope it helps!
Great work! Thanks for sharing.
@@STxFisherman thank you!
As always your work is much appreciated.. I actually really want to try this but I am waiting for your design and my new enclosed 3d printer to show up.. will be curious to see how things keep developing for you in the meantime!
@@TheSucc33d thanks! my models for peba and flex pla are released, but I will keep testing and trying other filaments to keep creating more models for the filaments that are worth it 😁
can a smaller version of this ball be printed on the A1 mini? I'm assuming the ball is too big on its own for the mini.
@Edgar-Egg I have seen others have success scaling this ball down by enough to fit on the mini, but scaling it down could affect the durability. I might try to design a file for smaller printers soon
i have a flashforge 5m adventurer do i put the same setting that u have what setting should i do?
@@mythierd6278 I have pretty much zero experience with flashforges, but I made a video about my settings/setup for printing the airless basketballs, maybe it will help. I will always try to answer any specific questions though: ua-cam.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/v-deo.html
Printing the panels separately then stitching them together might make them stronger. literally stitch them at the thick edges of the panels with rubber cement.
@@TheInsaneupsdriver I like that idea, might just have to try it!
I suggest you take the extra step to design custom supports for this. so you're not depending on the slicers support generation and the support removal will be easier making the final product come out more consistent.
Interesting idea - I will look into doing this
Can it be printed in K1C? I mean, it fits ?
I bet it would be able to print it if you could transfer the settings to the slicer you are using
Might be worth trying to design your own supports too? Good news is your can experiment on that without printing the whole ball!
@@kevinbernitz6580 yeah I will have to try that!
Thank you so much!
@@moroccanmartini8447 No problem 😁
Can I just change the slicer settings to 0.6mm if i want to print in 0.6?
@@ryanlim474 That is all I have been doing and it has been working well so far 😁
These are some awesome improvements!
Is there a place that someone without access to a 3d printer could commission one of these?
I am looking into this - PCBWay reached out to advertise this but so far they have been quite expensive. Working on finding a friendly cost solution 😁
Would PETG zero-clearance supports work for this? Great work so far!
@@MatthewLiguori thank you! The only issue is every time I have tried flex pla or peba in the AMS it has caused big issues. If I could figure that out it would be so much easier to remove those supports lol
I have a Cr-10s, do I have to have an enclosure to print with the flex pla?
Their Amazon page states that it is compatible with printers without enclosures, and I print mine with the door open on the Bambu Lab, so I don't think an enclosure is required
I’ve been looking into polypropylene and it looks promising
@@trevorstubbs4675 I think that polypropylene would be a promising filament, but I have heard it is tricky to print with. Might have to try it though!
Does Annealing help with durability/bounce?
It definitely seems to help with durability, but I will have to test to see how it affects the bounce
Quick question guys, i am going to pull the trigger on peba filament however i noticed that they are only available in 500gms spools, dod you guys have to buy 2 of them to complete the ball? Of you have to get 2, how to you change mid print to the other spool?
@@alitechno hey there, that is correct, I had to buy 2 spools to have enough peba for the basketball. Also, to switch the spools, I had to follow the end of the 1st spool with the beginning of the 2nd spool while it is printing. It would probably be fine it you wait until it runs out and then load the new spool/resume the print after. I explain all of this in my other video here: ua-cam.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/v-deo.html
printed one on my X1C in peba-s and it turned out incredible! support was relatively easy to remove with pliers and a sharp knife.
It bounces great, love the feel and sound. throw it with full force against wall and easily survived that. Crazy how strong it seem to be.
Thank you so much for all your effort!!!!
@@MakerDad Glad to hear it turned out well! Mine is still holding up and still bounces better than any filament I have tried - hope yours holds up as well 😁
@@makeitlabchannel Was thinking about increasing the Top-Z Distance of the support to object interface from 0.2 to 0.22. To see how it affects support removal. Will let you know.
@@Mr.Schneeebly Would be interested to hear how it turns out!
Awesome video man! How many filament do I need to print the ball? I want to use the Kimya PEBA-S.Also do you have a recommendation on dying the ball after printing it?
Thank you! If you are using the Kimya PEBA-S, you will need 2 rolls of the 500 grams as you will use a total of about 640 (including supports). I am currently looking into dying the ball - I purchased a dye off of Amazon and I will try it out soon but new territory for me 😁
@makeitlabchannel
Just curious did the new file that you made fix the soft spot at the top of the ball because of the overhang?
@@CalebPham-sz5sj hey there, to account for that, I mention in the settings that I add an extra top layer but only to the top. This seems to help keep the bounce the same around the whole ball
ok thanks and also can i use bambu lab slicer for prusa because most of the settings in prusa slicer aren’t on there
@@CalebPham-sz5sj I was reading that you can use Bambu Studio for Prusa, you just have to set up a printer profile for your printer. The settings might also be in the Prusa Slicer, just maybe hidden from view and have to be activated to view like Cura?
thanks you so much for your help and one last question i have flashforge flex pla from amazon and i was wondering if i should use that or use the other flex pla that you recommend
@@CalebPham-sz5sj I have not tested the flashforge flex pla yet so I am not sure how well it prints/how close to the NBA weight it would be, but I have heard from others that it works well
try 3d printing it with PET filament like in the bottles, it should be flexible and bounce
I mean PET, not PETG, specifically. the original bouncy bottle plastic. you could probably easily cast PET domes. maybe PETG-carbon filament reinforced might do the trick.
@@gsestream Great suggestion!
Have you tried printing it with bigger nozzles? The 3+ day printing time is holding me off a bit 😅
@@oclk8650 I have some 0.6mm nozzles coming in soon and I will be sure to test how it performs/decreases printing time 😁
@makeitlabchannel Great! I will wait for updates. I would really like to print such a basketball, but with the very high price for the PEBA filament i am waiting until I know everything will be working perfectly. 🙈
@@oclk8650 sounds good!
@@makeitlabchannel Any news on the bigger nozzles?
@@oclk8650 just tested their durability yesterday, so I should have a video out this week hopefully. In a nutshell, I didn't notice a difference in durability or bounce, but it cuts the print time by a lot - shaves off days. The only negative I can see is that the larger layer lines are more visible but that isn't a big deal for me
Will you make a video on making it more rubbery and grippy? Wanna make it more like a real one.
@@benon3d I can definitely look into this 😁
@@makeitlabchannel Sorry for the late reply, but do you think some type of silicone coating would work? also, have you tried TPC? I have no idea if it would bounce or not but it may be worth a shot!
@@benon3d My first thought was maybe spraying it with something like Flex Seal, but it would add a bit of weight and could affect the bounce. Worth a try though. There are also dyes and paints that might help with this and change the color too. TPC is on my try list, and I have some that I will try printing soon because others have had good results with it. Lots to try!
It may sound stupid, but maybe try making a lightweight PEBA model, and coat it in flex seal? Or maybe even try regular PLA with 3dgloop like uncle jessy did, but then to dry it off design some type of thing that fills each hole in the basketball so that no gloop can cure inside the holes and make it ugly. Maybe from there you could coat it in a dye to hide the bubbles. Also, another idea i had was if you could possibly melt a bunch of 60a tpe filament and coat a PETG basketball in that? The possibilities are almost endless. Who knows? Maybe someone will melt real basketball rubber into a filalment and extrude that!
@@benon3d Those are all great ideas, and worth trying! I am sure we will find the winning combo some day
Is it possible to print it any faster? I don’t really like the idea of my x1c being out of use for 3 days😅 Great work, btw!
@@benon3d thank you! It depends on the filament. I have printed the flex PLA very fast, as fast as regular pla, but the problem is it will sacrifice the adhesion between the layer lines and you will probably get less durability out of the ball, although annealing the ball might counteract it. With peba, I only printed it at 60 mm/s max (as they recommend).
This Maybe a dumb question so if I use the file in the video description it'll have the bottom support settings and no support on top I watched the video and confused because I'm very new to 3d printing
Also to be sure which tier is for tbe commercial use
@@OfficalMr_Turkey what printer will you be using? If you are using a Bambu Lab printer with Bambu Studio, you can download the 3mf file and it will import all of the settings you need. It will be different if you are not using a Bambu Lab printer. I would also recommend printing some other things first before the basketball for practice but up to you 😁
Bambu printer
Is all the tiers commercial use or a certain tier for the patreon
@@OfficalMr_Turkey We have a commercial tier that is $5 per month that allows for commercial sale of the physical prints - commercial selling is only through the commercial tier
peba is probably the answer with some model or infill tweaks in imho.
@@3dp_edc I agree - just have to figure out those tweaks 😁
@makeitlabchannel maybe present what you've got to some of the big brains in the community and see if they have any ideas for improvement. Someone will have some hidden setting to try I'm sure.
@@3dp_edc good call!
Another quick question guys, I am giving it a go with the flex PLA filament which suggests a 0.6mm nozzle, however I noticed this after I started my 4 day print with a 0.4 nozzle. Can you please let me know if you printed this with 0.6 or 0.4? Much appreciated.
@@alitechno Yeah I read that they recommend a 0.6 nozzle, but I have only used a 0.4 nozzle on all of the basketballs I have printed and it has worked great for me 😁
@makeitlabchannel Thanks for confirming
@makeitlabchannel and another question. Have you tested these prints in a smaller size like 7 inch versions or 177mm? Kids version of the balls ?
W is it going to print good on my Neptune 4?
Hey there, I think if you use the right settings and print it slow it would work, but since the build plate is 225 x 225 you will have to scale the ball down a bit.
@@makeitlabchannel that’s true
Thanks as always.
@@NOYFB982 hope it helps!
@makeitlabchannel If I want to print it in TPU, which STL would you recommend? Thanks for releasing these!!
@@lorenzo-f5p I just looked at the density of tpu, and the closest one would be the flex pla, although it probably needs it's own model to be the right around 625 grams
So using PETG supports on a PLA model makes removal super easy, so what if you used pla/petg for supports on the peba basketball?
@@Return_To_Sender man I want that to work, but the peba and flex pla don't play nice with the AMS every time I have tried. If I could figure that out it would make it so much easier 😁
I sent you an email but when sliced, Bambu predicts I will use 564g of filament for the model itself which is considerably lower than yours. Any ideas? Has anyone else ran across discrepancy?
Oh, thanks SO MUCH for doing this, I have been patiently waiting for the GOD ROLL on Airless Basketball model!
@@MrSlashKiller sent you an email with my thoughts - hope it is worthy!
@@makeitlabchannel It didn't make numbers match but your prompt response was very much appreciated. Many thanks!
@@MrSlashKiller even the 3mf? Interesting. As long as the diameter/walls/% infill etc all match, the final print should be right around 625 grams. Let me know if there is any way I can help
@@makeitlabchannelFor some reason my email didn't show 3mf attachments on my phone so I downloaded to PC and all good now. Later I will disect the data and see where my original numbers were off. You're very kind to do that for us. Thanks again. I am about to print and remembered I might need to dry the filament. Did you run it through on a just opened sealed bag from manufacturer or just print immediately print from dryer?
@@MrSlashKiller glad to hear it! The first peba ball I printed I just opened straight from the sealed package and put it into the dryer, and then printed it right always from the dryer to the printer. The other ones I printed I used already-opened peba, but I dried it for about 6 hours on 50C first before printing, and dried the filament all the way through printing on all of them. Hope it works well!
Can u guys make a website and sell them
they gonna blow up
(dont make them expensive if u do sell them)
@@Junayd01-yk01 I will think about this, as it might be a good opportunity
Love this dude
@@Bruhzq much appreciated 😁
No footballs?
**Tom Brady joke goes HERE**
@@Are0hEssEss Hopefully soon! Working on my Tom Brady jokes lol
you gota do B-FPLA its the absolute best for this. a custom B-FPLA file would be epic! Specifically the ATARAXIA ART brand. that's the one I have tested
@@crazykkid2000 I will check it out!
@@crazykkid2000 looks like it is currently unavailable 😕 how did it bounce/hold up for you?
@makeitlabchannel it's amazing! Bounce is amazing. Feel is awesome, and it's just about indestructible, o been trying to brake one of my balls and they don't, even when playing soccer with them. I am going to be bummed if it's unavailable for long. I'll make a video and post it on my you tube channel about it and the last ball I made with it
@@crazykkid2000 dang, hoping it wasn't that much better lol. Hopefully they have some available soon
@makeitlabchannel I printed the peba ball with your new model: ua-cam.com/video/eaY5KMYub9o/v-deo.html
Did your peba ball hold up? Mine was much stronger than the other models, and never cracked from dribbling but after 30m of shooting hoops it broke in half on the layer lines, I think the higher drops did it on eventually.
I was thinking of doing tpc since that was stronger than the peba on the other balls(though not as bouncy) curious if yours held up, I printed with your settings.
maybe you kind try different budget filamets around $30 becuase the PEBA is $120 for one kilogram
@@chantillystreet7239 yeah it is way pricey
So you understand that the goal of this video series is to find the best filament which matches a real basketball / the Wilson 3d
Basketball, Right?
So why would using cheap filament contribute to this goal?
The filament which is now used, is used because other filament didn’t work
Nice
@@chantillystreet7239 thanks!
it printed good but now it starting to print cricid
@@leidyschuberg7062 Do you mean it started printing crooked?
OK!!! Amazing model! You are amazing! But get this! Right off the bat i spotted something! you will immediately need to change an reopen it to the public!!! I will email you a very important video showing what i found...
@@ScaleToTheWire yikes, yeah please let me know at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com
Done!
Why not share with all of us?
@@denizhernandez2451 they just mentioned that the way I have the seams (black lines) for the basketball might be a weakness in the model, but I set it up the way I did to not be a weak point like the other models I have tried. All that I have printed and tested are still holding strong 😁
@@makeitlabchannel nice to know. I was just curious why this couldn’t be commented here like it would be such a secret information 😂
carbon fiber tpu
That would be a cool test 😁
@@makeitlabchannel I was in the initial round of testing when party lime was doing his models. I bought enough carbon fibre tpu to do one ball. Waiting on a good model.
@@michaelfilippi3276 hope it works well for you!
Maybe the only good application for it haha
Nice job, but it's technically incorrect. As is every other 3D model of an airless basketball that I could find online (except the real Wilson - which is correct). Easy to fix, though. Rotate the ball such that the seams are horizontal. Cut the model in half perpendicular to the seams, rotate the cut end 90°, and stick it back together. If your hexagonal holes are symmetrical either side of center, it will go back together just fine. if not, then the holes will get messed up.
Real [leather] basketballs are made from just one pattern that's mirror imaged [so technically 2 patterns, I suppose]. One end of the pattern curves down to a point. The other end is also curved, but ends in a vertical cut. Sort of looks vaguely like 1/2 of a vertically sliced bowling pin.
Your design (and everyone else's) would require 2 different patterns. One pattern would have points on both ends, the other would have vertical cuts on both ends. Sort of looks correct, but not really.
You can also make an "impossible" basketball. Cut the ball as described above, but only rotate it 45°, and stick it back together. If the model is correct, the seams will still line up, but it couldn't actually be made from leather. At first glance, it looks normal, but will mess with your mind if you study it closely - sort of like the basketball version of a Penrose Staircase.
Interesting, I will have to look into correcting the models (if I have the skill lol) and look into the other variations too, thanks!
Ignore the part about turning it 45 degrees makes it unbuildable. It’s still buildable, but looks weird.