Loose or poor ground is often the cause of Rockville amps going into protect mode only when bass is hitting hard. Same problem here. The instruction manual has warnings saying this.
I have a problem with my Rockville RXD f20 amp if kicks out when it gets hot how can I hook up a 12volt fan with the remote power line so fan doesn't run all the time
You would need to use a relay and use the remote wire as a trigger. However the amp really shouldn’t be getting hot like that. I’m thinking there’s probably an issue somewhere. Could be a bad ground or undersized wire. Might be clipping
I think I found the problem it seems there is some sort of shielding on top of the amp itself maybe it's for shielding against other electronic devices but the amp sits all by itself under the rear seat of my F-150 supercrew Ford so I took it off and it hasn't kicked out yet jury still out I'll keep you posted on it's performance Tommy
Set your gains with an oscope or a dd1. Check the ac voltage output of each amp. Once you establish which one is putting out the least voltage, turn the other amp gains down to match.
+Sinister That's kind of what I did. I set one with an O scope to make sure it wasn't clipping then check the ac voltage of it and match that voltage to the other three. Then checked all of them with an O scope. Once I hook up the speaker and play a 40 Hz tone the AC current going to each subs doesn't match and they're drawing a different amounts of DC current.
are you using a clamp meter for these tests? only thing I can think of at the moment after hearing you used the Oscope and they are all in phase is a ground issue with the amps not receiving the same amperage as the other amps, or(which i doubt you did) having different gauge or manufacturing wires going into the amps receiving less current. Also you can check the voltage drop across the amps and batteries that might help.
+RumpRangersHD Yea all the black 1/0 is CCA and most of the green is OFC. I ordered CCA but someone messed up and sent OFC for my 50ft roll of green. I'm not complaining just haven't had the money to upgrade the black yet. The short runs from the batteries to the amps are CCA except for one which I'm going to change when I get more ring terminals. It might have some affect on it.
The green wire splitter, it looks like the length of wire to each amp has different lengths. I know you are running 0 gauge wire but maybe the shorter length wires to the amplifier are getting more current???
it could be one of the amps or your head unit even rca's i hate to be the one that say it but your gonna to check everything the top to the bottom i hope this helps by the way nice build
+masterblaster735 Thanks man. Yeah the next nice day that I get I'm going to switch to 2 Amps and probably drop them to .5 ohm. If that doesn't fix it I'm going to go through the whole thing.
drawing a lot of current but not putting out tells me that there is a short inside the amp that isn't low enough impedance to burn the fuse but is draining enough current to weaken the output. The buzzing noise could be an arc fault but it stops when the amp warms up.
+Quinn Meche Interesting. Thank you for the info I appreciate it. I just met a guy through my work that repairs amplifiers so I might ask him to look at it for me.
I am surprised to see only one comment about your batteries. You can not mix them no more than you can mix them in a flashlight. Did you purchase them all at the same time? If not, that would be the first thing I would point my finger at. You can not have two batteries (for example) that were used for a couple of months then go buy a new one to add to it as you grow your system. The weakest link will show itself and if connected together, will pull down the strongest ones. I slept in a holiday inn express last night. Hope this helps someone.
I'm hearing some say out of phase, and it could be.. it also looks like the wrong polarity .... when your amp starts losing power in a less expensive amp its time to check each mosfet...they can die out slow
+Alpha Omega I agree, I definitely think there is something going on inside them. I'm saving up so I can upgrade so they will be seeing .5 ohm at some point.
I would like to see 1/2 ohm but don't want to see smoke. The amp I blown they sent a new 1. It never hit this hard so some amp's just put out More Watts. I think. But you could clamp each 1 and set Gain's to match on volt and amp ridge in and out. I got just 1 M4. On 10 inch d2 at 4 ohm. 12 inch d4 at 2 ohm. 15 inch d4 at 2 ohm. I don't know what the ohm is on amp but it hitting so hard now. like the wave on your ride nice
Hey thanks for the suggestion. All of the batteries are connected together so they are all getting the same voltage. Unfortunately the amps are just garbage.
Hey thanks for the suggestion. All of the batteries are connected together so they are all getting the same voltage. Unfortunately the amps are just garbage.
+Realdude rec Unfortunately I have not been able to meter it yet. I don't know of anybody around me that has a meter so I'm waiting to go to a show and test it out. I can't wait.
Sorry to tell you but Rockville sucks i had Rockville problems my self not only me look all over UA-cam any way skar or Audiopipe 2000 ampi would be your best bet Good luck bro
You should just get rid of the Rockville amps, there a budget amp, and the best quality budget amp out there is a skar audio rp 2000.1. I have 1 of there amps and it is doing work. Very reliable, it doesn't get hot either. For 229 bucks you can't beat a skar rp 2000.1
Dude replace them amps with some Hifonics Brutus amps you would be a lot more happy with the results I am going to be running 4 skars 12s with a 4000 watt amp when I get the money
+Mack Brown Yea they will most likely burn up. I'm going to trying take it easy on them at first though and see how they do. The skar 2000.1 won't be enough power but the skar 3500.1 might not be to bad.
+Shaun Owens Yeah I could do that I guess I'm really just looking for more power than that I want to really push the subs. There rated at 1000wrms each so I really want something that'll push more than 4000wrms just to give myself some wiggle room.
Turns out they were actually all in phase. There were two things going on here, first is the Rockville amps suck they were all gain matched but weren’t putting out equal amounts of power. The second thing going on has to do with the way cameras record and there frame rate
AmplifiedCarAudio unless its a huge amount of voltage change between them then no but it looks to me that the Amos are starting to shift out of phase and the random change in watts or in the case that u used it as volts is the change in the output voltage but if you get a phase shifter and run two amps or 4 with 2 stacked you can get a better reslaute also if you run two amp I suggest you use one voice coil form each sub to one amp and same way for the other the set your phase with the phase shifter
No not at all there dual voice coils you would either need two amps or 4 amps starped so in other word you would need to take one coil per subwoofer which means 4 coils per amp or 4 coils every 2 amps etc
+Christopher Kendall Hey man thanks for watching. The batteries are definitely not dying it is all because of the crappy Rockville amps. I upgraded to a Taramps HD 8000 and no longer have any issues. I never play it with the engine off so I really don't need a master battery
Bro it seems that Rockville has been nothing but trouble for you😔👎🏽. The look that you're seeing from the subs that looks weird isn't really the subs at all. It's the camera refresh rate. Think of the videos you see of helicopters in flight where the rotors look like they're not spinning at all or very slowly. The closer you get to the refresh rate, the slower it looks. When you match the refresh rate (60hz or 120hz for most cameras), you'll see that effect. If you're recording in 720p or 1020p, the p is for progressive scanning. Just Wikipedia it
+Jericho Snaxxx Thanks for looking out bro that does make sense. Numbers wise tho with the AC voltage, current and everything not matching between the amps I'm sure they're not putting out equal amounts of power.
hey.... look at the power input terminals... Rockville has/had 2 versions on this amp. I have one of each n I recognized the same difference in output. I recommend strapping one with high output with a low output
Hitting pretty damn hard man. Good shit 👍👍👍👍
+rhurtadorh32 Thanks man I appreciate it.
Loose or poor ground is often the cause of Rockville amps going into protect mode only when bass is hitting hard. Same problem here. The instruction manual has warnings saying this.
I just subscribed the new king of bass 160db brought me here
+Justin McGinley Thanks man I appreciate it.
I have a problem with my Rockville RXD f20 amp if kicks out when it gets hot how can I hook up a 12volt fan with the remote power line so fan doesn't run all the time
You would need to use a relay and use the remote wire as a trigger. However the amp really shouldn’t be getting hot like that. I’m thinking there’s probably an issue somewhere. Could be a bad ground or undersized wire. Might be clipping
@@AmplifiedCarAudio thanks I'll look into that and yes I would probably need a relay to get that to work like that for me
I think I found the problem it seems there is some sort of shielding on top of the amp itself maybe it's for shielding against other electronic devices but the amp sits all by itself under the rear seat of my F-150 supercrew Ford so I took it off and it hasn't kicked out yet jury still out I'll keep you posted on it's performance
Tommy
Set your gains with an oscope or a dd1. Check the ac voltage output of each amp. Once you establish which one is putting out the least voltage, turn the other amp gains down to match.
+Sinister That's kind of what I did. I set one with an O scope to make sure it wasn't clipping then check the ac voltage of it and match that voltage to the other three. Then checked all of them with an O scope. Once I hook up the speaker and play a 40 Hz tone the AC current going to each subs doesn't match and they're drawing a different amounts of DC current.
are you using a clamp meter for these tests? only thing I can think of at the moment after hearing you used the Oscope and they are all in phase is a ground issue with the amps not receiving the same amperage as the other amps, or(which i doubt you did) having different gauge or manufacturing wires going into the amps receiving less current. Also you can check the voltage drop across the amps and batteries that might help.
+RumpRangersHD Yes I was using a clamp meter. All the wiring is the same but I'm going to be going through all the connections and everything.
I dont know if this would matter but after watching a few of your vids it seemed like you may have mixed OFC with CCA.
+RumpRangersHD Yea all the black 1/0 is CCA and most of the green is OFC. I ordered CCA but someone messed up and sent OFC for my 50ft roll of green. I'm not complaining just haven't had the money to upgrade the black yet. The short runs from the batteries to the amps are CCA except for one which I'm going to change when I get more ring terminals. It might have some affect on it.
The green wire splitter, it looks like the length of wire to each amp has different lengths. I know you are running 0 gauge wire but maybe the shorter length wires to the amplifier are getting more current???
it could be one of the amps or your head unit even rca's i hate to be the one that say it but your gonna to check everything the top to the bottom i hope this helps by the way nice build
+masterblaster735 Thanks man. Yeah the next nice day that I get I'm going to switch to 2 Amps and probably drop them to .5 ohm. If that doesn't fix it I'm going to go through the whole thing.
Who says “these ones”?
drawing a lot of current but not putting out tells me that there is a short inside the amp that isn't low enough impedance to burn the fuse but is draining enough current to weaken the output. The buzzing noise could be an arc fault but it stops when the amp warms up.
+Quinn Meche Interesting. Thank you for the info I appreciate it. I just met a guy through my work that repairs amplifiers so I might ask him to look at it for me.
I am surprised to see only one comment about your batteries. You can not mix them no more than you can mix them in a flashlight. Did you purchase them all at the same time? If not, that would be the first thing I would point my finger at.
You can not have two batteries (for example) that were used for a couple of months then go buy a new one to add to it as you grow your system. The weakest link will show itself and if connected together, will pull down the strongest ones.
I slept in a holiday inn express last night.
Hope this helps someone.
These amps were not made to operate under 0.5 ohms.
I'm hearing some say out of phase, and it could be.. it also looks like the wrong polarity .... when your amp starts losing power in a less expensive amp its time to check each mosfet...they can die out slow
if you are ready to move on from Rockwell 1/2 ohm. But I honestly think its the amps that has some issue internally.
+Alpha Omega I agree, I definitely think there is something going on inside them. I'm saving up so I can upgrade so they will be seeing .5 ohm at some point.
a .5 ohm load would be good to see hopefully everything goes good
+team louder It would be interesting I'll definitely get it on video if I do.
I would like to see 1/2 ohm but don't want to see smoke. The amp I blown they sent a new 1. It never hit this hard so some amp's just put out More Watts. I think. But you could clamp each 1 and set Gain's to match on volt and amp ridge in and out. I got just 1 M4. On 10 inch d2 at 4 ohm. 12 inch d4 at 2 ohm. 15 inch d4 at 2 ohm. I don't know what the ohm is on amp but it hitting so hard now. like the wave on your ride nice
+Allen Snider Thanks man. I'm probably going to try the .5ohm
You know I'm all about that half ohm life on my Rockvilles
+Brian Edward Hell yea. I think I'll be going down that road soon.
Check Volts from.batteries. could be that one is not sending enough volts like the others.
Hey thanks for the suggestion. All of the batteries are connected together so they are all getting the same voltage. Unfortunately the amps are just garbage.
Hey thanks for the suggestion. All of the batteries are connected together so they are all getting the same voltage. Unfortunately the amps are just garbage.
Almost #300
+joel pate Hell yea. Thank you for subscribing man I appreciate it.
have you metered it yet if so what'd it do
+Realdude rec Unfortunately I have not been able to meter it yet. I don't know of anybody around me that has a meter so I'm waiting to go to a show and test it out. I can't wait.
OH cool where are you from I'm from NC Team Ain't Loud has a show in Rocky Mount in May
+Realdude rec I'm in western mass
AmplifiedCarAudio cool deal
Lets see a .5ohm load, I'm sure it will be fine.....hopefully
+Tavar Da juice man I might try it. If I do I'll just start low. That will probably be my next video.
Tavar Da juice man been running both my M4s at .5ohm for a year with no issues. As long as you are giving them enough juice, they will take it.
+Brian Edward Yea I should have enough power for them. Hopefully it works outs.
Nice thanks for the info
I get that buzzing noise in my skar amp until it plays alittle
That’s interesting, which skar amp do you have?
Sorry to tell you but Rockville sucks i had Rockville problems my self not only me look all over UA-cam any way skar or Audiopipe 2000 ampi would be your best bet Good luck bro
Yea that’s an old video. Check out some of my videos after that one. I had a lot of problems with Rockville too.
Told this before. It's an optical illusion made by the camera. It records from the top to bottom. Everyone that records to UA-cam knows this
+indopleaser Yea I know and it does make sense but I know they aren't putting out equal amounts of power. Thanks for lookin out man.
version1 has smaller terminals than v2s
+Thomas McDaniel ok. I'll have to check the terminal sizes.
AmplifiedCarAudio u may only have one oddball
You should just get rid of the Rockville amps, there a budget amp, and the best quality budget amp out there is a skar audio rp 2000.1. I have 1 of there amps and it is doing work. Very reliable, it doesn't get hot either. For 229 bucks you can't beat a skar rp 2000.1
+juicewatter Yea I'll definitely be upgrading. My only problem is my subs are dual 2ohm so I either need one big amp or two that are .5ohm stable.
Dude replace them amps with some Hifonics Brutus amps you would be a lot more happy with the results I am going to be running 4 skars 12s with a 4000 watt amp when I get the money
Yeah check out my newer videos, I replaced them awhile ago with a Taramps HD8000
u should just do .5 ohm than after they burn out which u know Will happen go get the skar audio 2000.1
+Mack Brown Yea they will most likely burn up. I'm going to trying take it easy on them at first though and see how they do. The skar 2000.1 won't be enough power but the skar 3500.1 might not be to bad.
+Mack Brown Damn they have a 4500.1. That might do the trick.
get 2 of the Orion 2500.1.
+Shaun Owens They would have to be .5ohm stable.
AmplifiedCarAudio no get 2 and do 2 subs pre amp.. run the 2 subs at 2ohm and put on 1 amp.. just match gain out on the amps..
AmplifiedCarAudio im running 4 nvx vsw152v2 with the Orion 2500.1d.
+Shaun Owens Yeah I could do that I guess I'm really just looking for more power than that I want to really push the subs. There rated at 1000wrms each so I really want something that'll push more than 4000wrms just to give myself some wiggle room.
There not in phase at all get a phase controller and set the phase on the one amp
Turns out they were actually all in phase. There were two things going on here, first is the Rockville amps suck they were all gain matched but weren’t putting out equal amounts of power. The second thing going on has to do with the way cameras record and there frame rate
AmplifiedCarAudio unless its a huge amount of voltage change between them then no but it looks to me that the Amos are starting to shift out of phase and the random change in watts or in the case that u used it as volts is the change in the output voltage but if you get a phase shifter and run two amps or 4 with 2 stacked you can get a better reslaute also if you run two amp I suggest you use one voice coil form each sub to one amp and same way for the other the set your phase with the phase shifter
Probably will never do 1 coil per amp, I would need 8 amps
No not at all there dual voice coils you would either need two amps or 4 amps starped so in other word you would need to take one coil per subwoofer which means 4 coils per amp or 4 coils every 2 amps etc
Battery closest. Sounds like it's dying. Always have one master battery the rest slaves
+Christopher Kendall Hey man thanks for watching. The batteries are definitely not dying it is all because of the crappy Rockville amps. I upgraded to a Taramps HD 8000 and no longer have any issues. I never play it with the engine off so I really don't need a master battery
Bro it seems that Rockville has been nothing but trouble for you😔👎🏽. The look that you're seeing from the subs that looks weird isn't really the subs at all. It's the camera refresh rate. Think of the videos you see of helicopters in flight where the rotors look like they're not spinning at all or very slowly. The closer you get to the refresh rate, the slower it looks. When you match the refresh rate (60hz or 120hz for most cameras), you'll see that effect. If you're recording in 720p or 1020p, the p is for progressive scanning. Just Wikipedia it
+Jericho Snaxxx Thanks for looking out bro that does make sense. Numbers wise tho with the AC voltage, current and everything not matching between the amps I'm sure they're not putting out equal amounts of power.
1/2 ohm bruh
+mrstacksod basshead Yea I'm going to have to try it.
half
+pursuit of happiness kjbktbktb Definitely going to do it but I'm thinking I might wait till I'm able to upgrade.
I want you to.. re-center your chin hair on your face bcuz it looks to be further on YOUR left.
hey.... look at the power input terminals... Rockville has/had 2 versions on this amp. I have one of each n I recognized the same difference in output. I recommend strapping one with high output with a low output
+Thomas McDaniel Yeah I did notice the writing on them are a little different. When I had them strapped they were strapped one high and one low.
AmplifiedCarAudio then gain match the master amps with a multimeter!
+Thomas McDaniel I did that but then one of the master amps started going into protect when I turned it up.
AmplifiedCarAudio gotta match the set of amps that has the lowest output. otherwise the subs will sound funny
Told this before. It's an optical illusion made by the camera. It records from the top to bottom. Everyone that records to UA-cam knows this
Also have been trolling Rockville comments trying to get them to say something about these problematic amps