Thank you for the very helpful video. I had the same cueing problem with my SL 1300. After watching your video twice, i decided to follow your repair process and open up the turntable. However, just on a hunch, I thought I would first try to soften up the probably hardened lubricant. So, after removing the platter, I simply used a hairdryer over the approximate spot as in your video for about five minutes. This worked! The turntable cueing works fine now! Thank you so much for your video once more.
Byron, many thanks for your video. I dug out a SL-1300 my Dad bought brand new back in the 70’s when in the Army in Germany, and it was tugged away in his garage for many many years. It had the same cuing problem you describe very well in your video. Your solution fixed it. Now I’m inclined to get it restored, as it needs new connectors, cartridge, and some cleaning. Many thnx again.
I have a SL 1360 and it had the same problem as yours. Thanks to your video I could repair mine also. I didn't lift the plate all the way up but enough to oil the parts that needed to be oiled. Thanks loads!
I had the same exact problem, but my mechanism was WAY more gummed up than yours. It hardly moved at all, even with force by hand. I spent probably 30 minutes trying to figure out where I needed to lubricate to make it move freely and eventually discovered the metal spring loaded part goes into a metal cylindrical piston. This contact with the piston was the issue and I had to spray some cleaner in there and move the part back and forth (like in and out) against the piston and then the same with some new sewing machine oil. Then it moved like brand new and problem solved! Thanks for the video, big help!
Thanks a million for giving me a glimpse under to hood! Solved same problem with my Technics SL-1350 turntable with less disassembly but more time and risk! I almost did the same thing as you document here (Thanks again!!!) but decided on an alternate course. Rather that disassembling, I just flipped it over leaving the dust cover on because the SL-3500 has a retaining ring that holds the platter in place even upside down. (THIS IS IMPORTANT because most players can't be turned upside-down without the platter off.) So then I took off the bottom cover, hit all the lube points with 1 drop penetrating oil, waited 15 minutes, then hit them all again with 2 drops 1-in-1 oil, wiggled and moved around all moving parts CAREFULLY!!!) then blew it out with air (this knocked out several packing peanut fragments from 1973!, dust, etc.), cleaned all the pots and contacts and rotated/switched 50x times, checked all the rubber off-sets (they were all fine! even at 40+ years old). Came away VERY IMPRESSED with this turntable. SOLID!!! Good materials. Basically good design. Probably great sound. We shall see . . . Anyway, then without any further work, testing, or disassembly, put it all back together, flipped it back upright, and tested. At this point nothing had changed. Still had same problem. BUT then I set it all on a heating pad at about 135 F. Clamped the Start lever into the active position. And theft it heating and moving through the autocuing process overnight. The next morning the lube, cleaning, movement, but MOSTLY the heat melted all the old gunk and the penetrating oil washed it away and the 3-in-1 got in there. AND NOW IT WORKS PERFECTLY. Of course, there is a possibility that on really cold days the problem may return since I am not certain all the parts are now moving freely when the grease has a chance to re-harden. BUT it's no big deal to flip it again and now that you have shown me what is under that metal section, I can easily hit it without removing the part. So double THANKS again!
Thanks a ton! Got mine working after I couldn't find any guides online. I had to stick a spacer I made out of paper onto mechanism where the start "screw" is connected to in order to get even more leverage on the start adjust. Before this it was going to the middle of the record, but now it's perfect. And beautiful.
Update it worked the adjusting screw was not needed (Make sure the lever is moving freely and fast) make sure you don’t break the wires they are like stands of hair good luck Hi I’m having the same issue I’m going to try to lubricate it I can’t tell if the adjustment screw helped or not ?
Hello Byron, thanks for sharing this. I have the exact problem with my SL-1350 and it's built exactly like this. What did you use to clean the old grease off? Thanks, Cliff
most guys just use isopropyl alcohol as long as it doesn't get all over rubber parts and dry them out. I've seen some guys also grease right over the old grease, as they think it softens up the old. I prefer to clean it off as much as possible before greasing it with new.
Thanks so much for this great video. On mine, when I lift the cue lever, the tone arm doesn’t lift. When I press the auto start, the tone arm sets down lower than the record and as such just hits the side of the platter. This is after adjusting the auto start position screw as far as it goes. Do you think it’s because it needs cue fluid or something else?
Does your 1300 not have a black removable peg next to the tone arm on the left? Underneath is a screw that enables you to adjust where the arm drops in.
I don't think the peg was there or else I had taken it out, but after fixing the return I realized the wrong dropping spot was a different adjustment too.
Thanks for the vid. I am working on my SL 1350 which looks very much the same as your 1300 and had the same issue with the arm not dropping in the correct spot while going all the way over then back and stopping. I have followed your instruction and put it back together to now have the arm stuck in the up position. I am not sure if I messed with something while I had it apart that is causing this and nothing stands out to me when I had it apart again. If you have any suggestions I would welcome it...It seemed like I was so close, lol.
I will take a look at the video again and maybe look at mine and see if I can come up with what might be causing the problem. I’m a novice at most of this too but will do some looking. Thanks!
The cueing arm on my SL-1300 does not stay up and slowly drops to the record or into the arm rest. Is this something you have an answer for? Thank you.
Thanks for this great video. I have some similar issues with my SL-1300 auto start, and now the motor doesn't shut off either when the arm returns. What kind of grease and oil do you use on the plastic parts?
Hello, I just used the 3 in 1 or any penetrating lubricant for that part. The plastic areas use a little heavier, typically grease, as long as it isn't too thick. Some guys clean the old off and some just add more where the old has deteriorated. I do put a light drop of oil on every pivot point or gear or wheel hub. I just bought some good synthetic grease that works well and I will be using to try and restore my Dual 1229q
Hello, I have the same problem on a Technics SL-1600 I just acquired. What type of oil did you use? I've never lubricated any electronics but think I could do this repair.
I also used regular 3 in 1 oil. It works well. I wouldn’t WD40 because it will not lubricate correctly. It is good for breaking parts loose but doesn’t really give them a smooth action.
Hi Thanks for the video. I have an sl1300 turntable and the tone arm is sticking about 2/3ds across the LP and scratching the record. There is some resistance to the tone arm when I try and move it across manually but once past that part the tone arm frees up and returns to the rest ok. Any ideas what could be causing this please? The turntable has been stored but was working perfectly before it was stored away. Thanks Peter
I'm not sure about this issue but you will probably have to open it up and move the tonearm slowly back and forth and see where the mechanism is getting obstructed. The lifter or something could be in the way possibly. I've had to prop my table up with the bottom off and watch it run to be able to find problems before, which isn't a lot of fun.
Hello, how is your antiskating on this turntable?Is it functional? When i use test record with blank space in the middle, my tonearm goes to the center/spindle even if antiskating is on 3(max). Is the spring loosen over time?What is situation with your turntable?
I'm wondering this too, mine does the same. I'm gonna open mine up and see if the anti-skate spring is even still attached. Its been serviced by someone in the past, so totally reasonable to suspect that the spring got detached somehow and lost on the workbench.
Mine seems to be ok. The funny thing is that I sold my other 1300 and have no counterweight. Until I get one I won’t be able to tell if that part is functioning correctly.
It’s hard to say now that it’s been so long since I’ve been under the hood of one. I and others would probably recommend that you turn it over and slowly work the tonearm and see what switches it activates. One could have electrical wiring coming from it and going to the power or circuit board.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I found a working 1300 at Salvation Army $30. Has the cue issue. Will give it a go this weekend. can anyone point me in the right direction for replacement feet and although my cover is in perfect condition, the hinges are rusty????
believe it or not, I found a kneeling pad at Home Depot. It's foam and for your knees if you're down working. It might be the most absorbent material i've ever seen.
Two years later, a re-watch and it's fixed. you have, indeed, made my day. Thanks.
awesome! I've learned so much from others who have helped me that's why I decided to post something to chip in and maybe help others.
Thank you for the very helpful video. I had the same cueing problem with my SL 1300. After watching your video twice, i decided to follow your repair process and open up the turntable. However, just on a hunch, I thought I would first try to soften up the probably hardened lubricant. So, after removing the platter, I simply used a hairdryer over the approximate spot as in your video for about five minutes. This worked! The turntable cueing works fine now!
Thank you so much for your video once more.
Great idea I’m glad it worked out for you!
Byron, many thanks for your video. I dug out a SL-1300 my Dad bought brand new back in the 70’s when in the Army in Germany, and it was tugged away in his garage for many many years. It had the same cuing problem you describe very well in your video. Your solution fixed it. Now I’m inclined to get it restored, as it needs new connectors, cartridge, and some cleaning. Many thnx again.
Glad you liked it. I haven’t went though the comments for a while. I love the feedback and so glad I could chip in with something informative.
Bonjour, j'avais le même problème sur ma SL1350 et grâce à vous elle est maintenant réparée, merci Monsieur !
I have a SL 1360 and it had the same problem as yours. Thanks to your video I could repair mine also. I didn't lift the plate all the way up but enough to oil the parts that needed to be oiled. Thanks loads!
I had the same exact problem, but my mechanism was WAY more gummed up than yours. It hardly moved at all, even with force by hand. I spent probably 30 minutes trying to figure out where I needed to lubricate to make it move freely and eventually discovered the metal spring loaded part goes into a metal cylindrical piston. This contact with the piston was the issue and I had to spray some cleaner in there and move the part back and forth (like in and out) against the piston and then the same with some new sewing machine oil. Then it moved like brand new and problem solved! Thanks for the video, big help!
Thanks a million for giving me a glimpse under to hood! Solved same problem with my Technics SL-1350 turntable with less disassembly but more time and risk! I almost did the same thing as you document here (Thanks again!!!) but decided on an alternate course. Rather that disassembling, I just flipped it over leaving the dust cover on because the SL-3500 has a retaining ring that holds the platter in place even upside down. (THIS IS IMPORTANT because most players can't be turned upside-down without the platter off.) So then I took off the bottom cover, hit all the lube points with 1 drop penetrating oil, waited 15 minutes, then hit them all again with 2 drops 1-in-1 oil, wiggled and moved around all moving parts CAREFULLY!!!) then blew it out with air (this knocked out several packing peanut fragments from 1973!, dust, etc.), cleaned all the pots and contacts and rotated/switched 50x times, checked all the rubber off-sets (they were all fine! even at 40+ years old). Came away VERY IMPRESSED with this turntable. SOLID!!! Good materials. Basically good design. Probably great sound. We shall see . . . Anyway, then without any further work, testing, or disassembly, put it all back together, flipped it back upright, and tested. At this point nothing had changed. Still had same problem. BUT then I set it all on a heating pad at about 135 F. Clamped the Start lever into the active position. And theft it heating and moving through the autocuing process overnight. The next morning the lube, cleaning, movement, but MOSTLY the heat melted all the old gunk and the penetrating oil washed it away and the 3-in-1 got in there. AND NOW IT WORKS PERFECTLY. Of course, there is a possibility that on really cold days the problem may return since I am not certain all the parts are now moving freely when the grease has a chance to re-harden. BUT it's no big deal to flip it again and now that you have shown me what is under that metal section, I can easily hit it without removing the part. So double THANKS again!
Awesome!!
Perfect, just what I needed to see, my 1350 was setting down on the 7" spot. You have made my day.
Thanks a ton! Got mine working after I couldn't find any guides online. I had to stick a spacer I made out of paper onto mechanism where the start "screw" is connected to in order to get even more leverage on the start adjust. Before this it was going to the middle of the record, but now it's perfect. And beautiful.
Man, I would LOVE to get a 4k version of this video. You taking us through it while its open is SUCH great info to see!
Humble and helpful. Perfect info. Thank you.
Fantastic video my 1300 had exactly the same problem. I followed your advice exactly and now its perfect. Thanks so much.
I have the exact same issue. Thanks for explaining it!
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing Byron.
Update it worked the adjusting screw was not needed (Make sure the lever is moving freely and fast) make sure you don’t break the wires they are like stands of hair good luck
Hi I’m having the same issue I’m going to try to lubricate it I can’t tell if the adjustment screw helped or not ?
Hello Byron, thanks for sharing this. I have the exact problem with my SL-1350 and it's built exactly like this. What did you use to clean the old grease off?
Thanks, Cliff
most guys just use isopropyl alcohol as long as it doesn't get all over rubber parts and dry them out. I've seen some guys also grease right over the old grease, as they think it softens up the old. I prefer to clean it off as much as possible before greasing it with new.
Thanks so much for this great video. On mine, when I lift the cue lever, the tone arm doesn’t lift. When I press the auto start, the tone arm sets down lower than the record and as such just hits the side of the platter. This is after adjusting the auto start position screw as far as it goes. Do you think it’s because it needs cue fluid or something else?
Thanks- I have the same issue. Hopefully it will be a quick fix.
basically skip to the 5:00 mark to get to where he shows the part that needs cleaned/lubricated to get the disc size/cue control fixed
I’m new to it so I rambled on about some basic background. Thought about this after I made the video.😂
Does your 1300 not have a black removable peg next to the tone arm on the left? Underneath is a screw that enables you to adjust where the arm drops in.
I don't think the peg was there or else I had taken it out, but after fixing the return I realized the wrong dropping spot was a different adjustment too.
I’m interested in a Technics Fully automatic TT. What’s better SL 1300 VS 1600 ????
Thanks for the vid. I am working on my SL 1350 which looks very much the same as your 1300 and had the same issue with the arm not dropping in the correct spot while going all the way over then back and stopping. I have followed your instruction and put it back together to now have the arm stuck in the up position. I am not sure if I messed with something while I had it apart that is causing this and nothing stands out to me when I had it apart again. If you have any suggestions I would welcome it...It seemed like I was so close, lol.
I will take a look at the video again and maybe look at mine and see if I can come up with what might be causing the problem. I’m a novice at most of this too but will do some looking. Thanks!
The cueing arm on my SL-1300 does not stay up and slowly drops to the record or into the arm rest. Is this something you have an answer for? Thank you.
Thanks for this great video. I have some similar issues with my SL-1300 auto start, and now the motor doesn't shut off either when the arm returns. What kind of grease and oil do you use on the plastic parts?
Hello, I just used the 3 in 1 or any penetrating lubricant for that part. The plastic areas use a little heavier, typically grease, as long as it isn't too thick. Some guys clean the old off and some just add more where the old has deteriorated. I do put a light drop of oil on every pivot point or gear or wheel hub. I just bought some good synthetic grease that works well and I will be using to try and restore my Dual 1229q
Hello, I have the same problem on a Technics SL-1600 I just acquired. What type of oil did you use? I've never lubricated any electronics but think I could do this repair.
See the response to the next comment, which is similar. I have original Technics oil for the bearing. It works also for the axle points.
I also used regular 3 in 1 oil. It works well. I wouldn’t WD40 because it will not lubricate correctly. It is good for breaking parts loose but doesn’t really give them a smooth action.
Hi
Thanks for the video.
I have an sl1300 turntable and the tone arm is sticking about 2/3ds across the LP and scratching the record. There is some resistance to the tone arm when I try and move it across manually but once past that part the tone arm frees up and returns to the rest ok.
Any ideas what could be causing this please? The turntable has been stored but was working perfectly before it was stored away.
Thanks
Peter
I'm not sure about this issue but you will probably have to open it up and move the tonearm slowly back and forth and see where the mechanism is getting obstructed. The lifter or something could be in the way possibly. I've had to prop my table up with the bottom off and watch it run to be able to find problems before, which isn't a lot of fun.
Do you know if the 1300 MKII tone arm clip is glued on or screwed on? My clip is broken.
Hello, how is your antiskating on this turntable?Is it functional? When i use test record with blank space in the middle, my tonearm goes to the center/spindle even if antiskating is on 3(max). Is the spring loosen over time?What is situation with your turntable?
I'm wondering this too, mine does the same. I'm gonna open mine up and see if the anti-skate spring is even still attached. Its been serviced by someone in the past, so totally reasonable to suspect that the spring got detached somehow and lost on the workbench.
Mine seems to be ok. The funny thing is that I sold my other 1300 and have no counterweight. Until I get one I won’t be able to tell if that part is functioning correctly.
I have a 1300 that will not turn off. Any suggestions?
It’s hard to say now that it’s been so long since I’ve been under the hood of one. I and others would probably recommend that you turn it over and slowly work the tonearm and see what switches it activates. One could have electrical wiring coming from it and going to the power or circuit board.
Hi does anyone know how to completely disable or remove the auto return mechanism on the SL-1300 exactly the same that is on this video?
This is exactly what I was looking for. I found a working 1300 at Salvation Army $30. Has the cue issue. Will give it a go this weekend. can anyone point me in the right direction for replacement feet and although my cover is in perfect condition, the hinges are rusty????
Ace Hardware sells 1 1/8" rubber feet. Buy 4 for $4.00, drill a hole in the bottom, thread a M6 1" machine screw through the hole and into the base.
I have had good experience with Sorbothane hemispheres. More compliant than plain rubber.
believe it or not, I found a kneeling pad at Home Depot. It's foam and for your knees if you're down working. It might be the most absorbent material i've ever seen.
eu tenho uma sl 1300 mas parou dedesligar fica ligada direto e não aciona o automatico vc tem algum video ensinando a consertar ???
Sorry I just saw this comment. I didn’t get that far but might when I have time.
There is no clearaudio model called "Continuum"....
my bad I meant Concept