No, 1.5v lithium cells are single-use disposable items, like a longer-lasting alkaline battery. These are rechargeable lithium-ion cells, similar to those used in laptops. There is a tiny circuit (buck converter) that internally converts the 3.7v to 1.5v, appropriate for standard AA cells.
@Joachim Shekelberg An Internet search from the US finds Energizer: duckduckgo.com/?q=1.5v+lithium Other reference information available here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery
@@skityke Apparently, it's an AA battery containing lithium-ion cell embedded. I'm impressed it's a smart design to shrink the normal lithium battery to a broader aa usage.
It's worth noting that when comparing power output to the Eneloop you should be comparing the watts not amps due to the difference in voltage. Eneloop has lower voltage meaning at around 1.2V average voltage throughout its discharge cycle it will have output 1.2 x 2000 = 2400mWh of power, whereas the lihtium had 1.5V constant voltage which means total capacity was 1.5 x 1650 = 2475mWh, so the two store almost the same amount of power in your test.
@@freefall0483 The point is that Power = Voltage x Current so if you measure current you have to take the voltage into consideration when determining how much actual power (in Watt hours) the battery stored.
@@bluc0bra People with real world experience know that in the real world the theory doesn't survive reality. On paper you are correct. In the real world, measured capacity equals usable capacity. Your on paper calculations fail to take into account the losses of the battery's internals.
@@freefall0483 I don't think you understand what I'm saying. I'm not saying the measured capacity in the video is wrong, but that battery capacity is a function of measured voltage AND measured current. Both are measured in the video, you just need to multiply them to get the total power stored in each battery in Watt hours. Internal impedance of the battery is accounted for because both current and voltage are measured. This is not about theory vs. reality, it's about interpreting your measurements correctly.
@@bluc0bra What if some of the rated storage of the cell is consumed by the electronics that drop the voltage? Do you think that maybe the rated cell capacity might not be the same as the actual consumable energy.
Great job. the advantage of this battery is, unlike NiMh, it produces a steady 1.5 volts over it's lifetime, but the downside, being lithium it goes from 1.5 to dead.no low battery warning
I stumbled on this video because I have the same battery set and I was dumbfounded when I saw it's butt light up blue when it's charging. I didn't think an LED would fit inside a battery this small, but the teardown proved me wrong. (I'm just so used to conventional disposable batteries that I didn't think this kind of improvement in battery tech would be introduced in the market)
Great teardown! I have to say, though, I disagree that the vendor is "mostly honest". While 2.775 Wh is indeed what's listed on the internal Li battery, you show clearly that the delivered energy is only 2.475 Wh -- the rest being lost due to inefficiency of the voltage converter. Since there is no way to recover this heat energy, the capacity of this battery should be listed at 2.475 Wh.
Very interesting, that little circuit in the battery is just regulating the Voltage to 1.5. This would make it impossible to know how much capacity is actually left in the battery. The would be good for flashlight since it could keep them bright, but the flashlight would just die without any hints. This would definitely need their specialty charger to work. It would have been nice if you checked the charging Voltage.
There are several applications where I'd gladly trade ~20% of the Eneloop's capacity for a constant 1.5 volts from full to dead, like cheap bike lights. I don't use disposables, and the Ni-MH cells aren't even 1.5 at full charge! My only complaint is that it's not 1.6V (more typical of a fully-charged disposable battery), but again, a steady 1.5V is worth the "loss" of 0.1V. Very cool.
You don't have to trade anything. The TENAVOLT batteries beat the Eneloops! To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. The Eneloop is at a much lower voltage, which makes the mAh comparison rather useless. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop!
Yeah they measure 1.5- volts, the deleepow's measure a bit higher. If you want high output try the altizure line on amazon, they are SUPER cheap in comparison and only have 1600ish mWh, but they output a solid 1.8-1.9 volts. For most LED applications that's fine. "burns twice as bright for half the time" :-)
Wow, great video. They put a round LiPO battery wrapped in Kapton tape inside a AA case with a buck converter on top. My Duracell NiMH AA batteries are a little over 2,400 mAH and don't have any electronics needed. I do like that this battery manufacturer had honest specs on their battery, though. I'll stick with Duracell for now.
It's not very honest though when they know that capacity has to run through the step-down circuitry which isn't 100% efficient. The customer shouldn't have to know or care about that - they should advertise the usable power instead of the raw pouch cell capacity.
Wow pretty interesting, I guess they made a proper lithium AA conversion, it does actually have more watt-hours than an eneloop, however for most AA powered devices they will just use more power at higher voltages so the runtime benefits will vary, a wireless mouse will probably run for longer however your multimeter or clock will not. Some things I am still curious about: how does the original charger charge the battery? what is the maximum current that can be drawn from the battery?
My el cheapo Logitech wireless mice from a decade ago are extremely frugal in terms of power draw, to the point where I use them as homes of last resort for any disposable cells I end up with (from used equipment, included with new items, etc.). They happily do the "low battery" blink for months, with no issues.
I am trying to figure this out. I bought the tenevolts on amazon, as well as a couple of knock offs. Knock offs are deleepow and altizure. The tenevolts are superior in every way when I run them on some very low wattage under cabinet LED lights. Alkaline Costco/Kirkland brand AA's run 7-10 days, the tenevolts run 6-7 days, the deleepow maybe 3-4 days and the altizure's run for only like 2-3 days. Altizures put out 1.8+ volts and the deleepow and tenevolt put out about 1.5, so you don't get the dim lights like you would with NiMh rechargeables such as eneloop. All of these 3 brands have chargers that look identical and all put out 5 volts, but NONE of them will work with the competitors batteries, or at least their charging indicators don't work. I think they are set to very manufacturer specific output voltages. The tenevolts seem to turn themselves off with the internal circuit and the others have some kind of sensor in them like a normal lipo charger. Putting the altizures for example on my RC car tenergy charger on 1s (1 cell) 3.7v lipo auto charge senses the voltage like normal when applying voltage over 1.5 and I can charge them easily that way (i don't know why his charger had an issue, probably because it tries to auto sense wheras I can set the charger to LiPo mode only). anyway that's likely all confusing and I should make my own video comparing them all. If you want a set of these get the tenevolts and their own charger. I am off to try to charge them in my 18650 charger now!
@@gagegr just got some of the cheap alizure batteries but did not buy their charger since I already have a smart charger and it will charge them up to their normal 3.7 volts I'm unsure if this will damage the internal circuitry or not
I don't know about these Tenavolt ones but some of the very first batteries of this style actually had two terminals at the positive end; the charger contacts a recessed ring connector around the normal protruding nipple which provides the 1.5v output. If you look up Kentli batteries you'll see what I mean. I imagine regular chargers won't work because they'll just contact to what is the 1.5V output circuitry.
Inside of this is a small Lithium-Ion battery of 3.7 Volt, and the voltage regulating circuit keeps the Voltage stable at 1.5V. These Constant-Voltage batteries like Tenavolts, Hixon, Kentli, Jugee, Mrupoo are NOT Recommended for Audio, Radio, or very sensitive devices because the buck converter produces radio frequency noise and ripple voltage. The charger delivers 5V (you can't use regular charges). The total power of the cell is capacity is: 1.5V x 1650mAh = 2475mWh.
Ottima riflessione che vedo poco in giro. Questa soluzione usa elettronica di tipo switching e quindi la tensione in uscita non è "pulita" come avviene in genere con le pile. Le cose più disturbate possono essere gli strumenti di misura su cui consiglio di non usarle
I have these and they come with a normal USB charger now. No weird plug. Work great on anything that needs the voltage like battery operated front door lock.
@@luissimoes8106 They are great for the controllers of my Tamiya cars. NiMH always show low voltage on the radios where these don't. They are outlasting my NiMH batteries in the front door use significantly so they should last a long time in lower drain devices as well.
@@Therealjmhinkle don't know "what to do"...🤔 I have a set of Sorbo 1.5 V lipo USB rechargeable ones ones and, in older cars don't work, In recent cars you don't see that bigger punch like when we swap from Alkaline for Ni Mh; So, until anyone make that comparison I'm stopped... thinking in Eneloop or Duracell...🤷♂️😁😉
Someone that has tested this question I have ,that can help . 1) will mixing AA/AAA BATTERIES DISPOSABLE with either one of the following the Ni-cd , NI-MH , or the new li-on recharging batteries will it damage the batteries if used on toys , electronics in a single or multi use will any get damage or won’t allow recharge after a usage due to some factors or differences of voltages but being new or freshly recharge to be use ? I tested and one damage but I wonder why didn’t the chip inside the lithium kick in !? Many won’t even get to test this but I have to ask 😂 it might help us even when some manuales instructions don’t mention to avoid this and only say to DONT USE NEW AND OLD BATTERIEs
I was looking for a test like this. These are excellent for applications where 1.2V isn't enough to drive the load. Usually you would have to switch to single use batteries. Seems like the capacity is acceptable as well.
RE.. Debate over these being Lithium vs Lithium ION. I contacted the company directly on Facebook via messenger to confirm and the company told me these are "Lithium Ion" which makes sense. I did this because Lithium batteries cannot be recharged (difficult and risky to do) due to density among other things. Lithium Ion batteries can easily be re-charged. It does say only "Lithium" on the battery but if you don't want to take my word (or General Scientific knowledge for that matter), then please reach out to the company yourself. They are very quick to respond. My guess is they are calling it Lithium for short to distinguish it from other brands. it does Technically contain Lithium.
How long do the AA/AAA 1.5v USB-rechargeable lithium batteries last for after they've been fully charged and put "on the shelf" before they're flat? (Because of the step-down circuit always being on.)
Nice tear down. Several of these on the market now. A side by side comparison of capacity would be nice to separate the premium brands from the garbage. --The only debate is among the uninformed.
Li-ion (lithium Ion ) batteries are rechargeable. standard lithium (lithium metal) are a 1 time use. The Eneloop are Ni-MH (Nickle Metal Hydrid) batteries that run at 1.2 volts and too low of a voltage for some devices that only use 1 battery. But they are also rechargeable.
Get these. They don't take long to charge and you get 4 so when the first two go dead you can put the next two in the controllers. Just charge them regularly
It cannot be charged with other charger there is some compatibility with the battery even if its a Li-ion charger, eventually the charger included in the package corroded easily, tried to clean and open it up and see nothing special. Hope you can try also tearing it down and check what make its special.. You can also consider a brand called KENTLI. they seems to be the same... this will hit market like a storm and those disposable batteries will no longer be around... the chip within the battery is really fascinating.i thought it will explode like Li-po when you reach the smell of sweet tear downed Li-ion Great video!!!
A basic or decent battery charger like he has has to guess what battery he is putting in it. It is guessing it is a 1.5 Volt battery which it is. But at 1.5 Volts it thinks the battery is pretty much fully charged. Inside of this battery is a small typical lithium ion battery rated at 3.7V which you normally charge up to 4.2 Volts. The charger doesn't know this. The charger made by the same company of the battery knows what to do. It would be nice if he measured the charging Voltage. It is probably just putting up to 4.2 Volts. Looking at questions on Amazon, some people asked if the charger would also charge NiMh batteries. The company replied no.
Nobody covers the non-rechargable 3.6 AA batteries I bet most never heard of them They're great for things that can handle 3+v or 12v with 4 AA. For remotes etc. They last forever in many items. Yes slightly more voltage but generally improving on performance. No matter what item you put it in or add in series with regular AA with the 3.6volt AA
Did you ever buy it? Im watching this as im installing them in my quest controllers, ill let you know if any problems arise but they're seeming to be worth every penny so far. I advise to buy 2 so when the batt gets to 2 bars, you can charge them and instantly insert 2 new ones
@@corvidconfidential8826 I ended up buying a different brand I found for cheaper. Lower capacity though and has the charging brains build into the cell, charges via usb. They seem to be working so far it seems like I got around 5 hours off a charge which I'm hoping is a fluke.
@@vgamedude12 a bad fluke? I haven't used them long enough to see how long it stays, but do you also use them till they die? I use batteries until they are on 2 bars, so I'm sure this brand is perfect as it seems to have more charge. I hate changing batteries on the quest as I have a skin on the grips, so the longer the charge... the better. Btw, what VR set do yah have?
@@corvidconfidential8826 I have the odyssey+. I meant fluke because for some reason my left controller stopped tracking and the lights got dim but the right one was working fine. I took both sets out and recharged them to full, since then I have only played about an hour though. One other thing, with the lipo batteries since they are constant 1.5v until shutoff the battery indicators do not work correctly, at least not on my headset. I get constant 3 out of 4 bar charge report.
@@vgamedude12 mine has been used mostly since I replied first, just stopped to charge the headset, and I only played beat saber + pistol whip but my batt level has stayed at 3 the whole time. Tracking never degraded and it already is lasting longer than a normal AA. Hate to say it but you might want to see if it's the batteries, depending on *how* much cheaper they were might be a factor. :c Could be a quest thing too, I've only had a quest and know nothing else about VR so I could be wrong.
Great teardown, thanks! Do you know what the maximum discharge current of these batteries is? I am considering purchasing them for use in a camera flash so am looking for something with a high discharge rate to bring down the recycle time of the flash.
check out projectfarm's video which is more recent and includes a bunch of brands tested fully. i actually saw that first and found this video because i was curious about how it was built.
Oh man you opened a fully charged cell right? I haven't got the balls or guts to do that lol. Isn't it best to open them fully discharged, or half discharged (for lithium based)? I mean in case it does explode it'll be least impactful?
what voltage right up to the nipple of the JUGEE battery does it use? USB 5V? (Of course there is a voltage regulator bucking down the voltage to 1.5 v ) But I'm curious as to what the Voltage at the charger terminal with or without the JUGEE battery load ?
why you put Lithinum 1.5V battery on Charger divices but it 's not working until using there own Charger? Let me explain The charging devices is used for Ni-NH battery, maxinum output is 1.5V But The Lithinum baterry using 2 Voltage: 1.5V output way, but input way uses 5V. Cause they use that green pcb to control Input and output Voltage. Unlike Ni-NH ,or Li-on 3.7V 18650,... Batery, they use 1.2V-1.5V to charge themselves. And one more thing, The Lithinum Battery when it get low, they suddenly drop 1.5V > 1.1V or 0V, not like Ni-NH or Alkadelin, drop down slowly
They are sold on Amazon now. Where the Tenavolts really shines is not the capacity but the base voltage of 1.5v that's the same as alkaline, where NiMH is around 1.2v. Some electronic devices are voltage sensitive. I have a Bosch GLM 15 laser tape measure that uses AAA and it would work for a couple of minutes on fully charged NiMH batteries. I thought the device was defective until I put in normal alkaline batteries and it works for a lot longer.
It's just a very small "buck converter". Also known as a DC-DC step down converter. You can buy them pretty cheap but they are not this small, but fairly small. I have modified a lot of my kid's toys to use lithium batteries (18650 and other sizes) using either a step down or step up converters depending on requirement.
LTO looks badass, comrade. The most impressive part for me (a Eurosquatter north of the "Medicine Line") is how it performs in sub-zero temps. My ideal lithium ebike battery would be LTO, energy density be damned!
I have one question about that. While NiMH batteries getting empty, they loose voltage. Than the device which is using that battery, decides to shut down for example @0.9V. So what happens these Li-ion batteries getting empty? Does it cut the current instantly like pulling of the battery? Isn't it harmfull for devices driven with software? Isn't it confusing for these devices, there is 1.5V but it can't boot up?
@@vuaeco so isn't it a problematic situation for host device? Let's say it is an xbox controller. It will measure 1.5V, will it try to wake up repeatedly, forever? Or it will wake up but when it try to use vibration motors will it cut off?
@@mhakanalim Its fine in my experience. I use them in LED lights that have all sorts of controls and patterns and they just go super dim. Xbox will be A-OK too (we have one at home).
I'm terribly curious to know what's going on in the charger. USB = 5v and 4 x 1.5v = 6v ..which is completely opposite of what it needs if the charger is stepping up the charge voltage. Hmm... OH!! I bet you that they are NOT stepping up the charge voltage. I bet they are charging all 4 at 5 volts, and divided the 2.4 amps between all 4 batteries, so .8 amps charge per battery.
yeah, they charge like normal li ion batteries. so basically constant current for the first part and then constant voltage of 4.2 to top them off. the little chip on the circuit handles it all. so it's basically like those 18650 boards that make them into a usb powerbank, but the difference here is that instead of stepping up to 5v, it uses a converter to step down to 1.5 on the output
@@carlos2004 I've since bought two different brands. I don't mind the weird charging configuration so much as the fact that each brand has to use it's own charger. THAT'S a bit of a PITA.
It is regulating the Voltage of a 3.7V battery to 1.5V. Nothing too special. it needs a special charger that knows what this battery is doing though. A typical charger won't work on this.
These are lithium ion batteries, the same kind on you phones, these typically output a voltage of 3.7V / cell. these batteries have a Buck converter (DC to DC converter) that lower the output voltage and maintains it at a constant 1.5V. So if you do the math 2775mWh / 3.7V = 750 mAh @ 3.7v but after the converter 2775mwh / 1.5V = 1850 mAh @ 1.5 V. So these batteries are actually not than far off from Ni-MH rechargable batteries because those output at 1.2V and they are rated at 2000mAh typically so 2000mAh * 1.2V = 2400mWh.
Has anyone used these in a Sega GameGear or Atari Lynx? They seem awesome but the only issue I would see is if they hold a constant 1.5 volts until theyre dead and they dont gradually weaken, you could be close to beating a game when your console suddenly dies without warning.
Kinda amusing that you did a tear down, but instead of analysing the controller board (as I was expecting), you instead start pulling apart the actual 3.7v lithium cell. Argh!
@@vuaeco a lithium battery. which is exactly what it says on the battery and which is exactly what it says on amazon. show me where it says "ION" anywhere in the description of them.
@@stevejones9717 Wrong.. these are Lithium Ion. I contacted the company myself via Facebook. Lithium batteries cannot be re-charged. (Technically it may be possible but it's difficult and not safe to do). Lithium ion batteries can be recharged easily and safely. I contacted the company on facebook for clarity and they confirmed these are Lithium ion. Calling it a lithium battery doesn't negate them being lithium ion as it still contains "Lithium". Please reach out to them yourself on Facebook as I did, and they will confirm these are LION batteries if you won't take my word for it. They are quick to respond.
The capacity of these batteries are terrible. Less than AAA batteries. They have 3x less capacity than the cheapest AA alkaline battery...that's what Tenavolt and Amazon (suppresses reviews) won't tell you. Don't believe me? Then you don't know how to do BASIC math.
Absolute lie from someone with no experience on these. They will outlast any NiMH battery in a setting that needs voltage for power such as thermostats, cameras and front door locks. NiMH batteries are the ones playing games with your mind because they want you to believe they last longer while only supplying 1.2 volts. In reality they won't power devices beyond remotes and wall clocks for very long at all. I've put these through the test and they are far better than the Eneloop pro and Fujitsu Black. Don't even mention the crap white label stuff.
Yeah look at the mWh not the Mah since the eneloops run such low voltage. The real world answer is it depends on usage, if you are in a high draw device these can supply high voltage longer. They don't fade to black like eneloops and similar NiMH
Bro do some Math that you claim you can do. 2775mWh / 1.5 V = 1850mAh, these are higher if you consider Ni-MH output at 1.2 V and will continue to drop in voltage with a rated mAh of 2000 so around 2400mWh so yes these last a lot longer than that.
A lot of you guys are confused with the mWh rating. That is indeed a little dirty trick. Don't compare that to mAh. You would take the average operating Voltage, times the mAh to get the final overall power storing capacity of a battery. A typical rechargeable AA battery is rated at 1.2 Volts, a typical Lithium Ion battery is rated at 3.7 Volts. it is rated at 3.7 Volts, but fully charged is usually 4.2V. The rechargeable AA batteries start at higher than 1.2V when fully charged but when discharging they will stay in the 1.2V range for a long time.
There are several applications where I'd gladly trade ~20% of the Eneloop's capacity for a constant 1.5 volts from full to dead, like cheap bike lights. I don't use disposables, and the Ni-MH cells aren't even 1.5 at full charge! My only complaint is that it's not 1.6V (more typical of a fully-charged disposable battery), but again, a steady 1.5V is worth the "loss" of 0.1V. Very cool.
This is my issue with rechargables as well. No NiMH lasts long in high drain devices. These batteries are working extremely well for me in the same situations.
@@vuaeco I don't understand saying that the Eneloop's have more capacity. To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh, as the Eneloops operate at much lower voltage. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop.
@@vuaeco there is a cheap knockoff of the tenevolts on amazon called "altizure" and they put out 1.8-1.9 volts, unifortunately they last less than half as long in my low wattage LED usage. The Altizure only has about 1600 mWh
@@Therealjmhinkle Plenty of NiMH last long at high drain. 2Ah cells can take a 2-4 amp drain or more. The equipment is the problem. Don't design a 2 cell high drain device to stop working at 2V, or perform badly at 2.2. The device needs to operate over a range of voltage (0.9-1.6V per cell) and a lot of equipment is too badly or cheaply designed to do this.
same way you can buy lithium 1.5v batteries at walmart or anywhere else these are f*CKING LITHIUM batteries NOT FCKING LITHIUM ION. jesus.
No, 1.5v lithium cells are single-use disposable items, like a longer-lasting alkaline battery. These are rechargeable lithium-ion cells, similar to those used in laptops. There is a tiny circuit (buck converter) that internally converts the 3.7v to 1.5v, appropriate for standard AA cells.
@Joachim Shekelberg An Internet search from the US finds Energizer: duckduckgo.com/?q=1.5v+lithium
Other reference information available here:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_battery
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery
@@skityke Apparently, it's an AA battery containing lithium-ion cell embedded. I'm impressed it's a smart design to shrink the normal lithium battery to a broader aa usage.
You don't really understand shit about fuck, do you?
Joachim Shekelberg They just hit the market this year
Wow man, might be the best teardown and testing of a battery I seen yet. Keep up the good work!
This is an outstanding video you did on this battery sir.
It's worth noting that when comparing power output to the Eneloop you should be comparing the watts not amps due to the difference in voltage. Eneloop has lower voltage meaning at around 1.2V average voltage throughout its discharge cycle it will have output 1.2 x 2000 = 2400mWh of power, whereas the lihtium had 1.5V constant voltage which means total capacity was 1.5 x 1650 = 2475mWh, so the two store almost the same amount of power in your test.
The discharge was measured, not calculated. It was accurate.
@@freefall0483 The point is that Power = Voltage x Current so if you measure current you have to take the voltage into consideration when determining how much actual power (in Watt hours) the battery stored.
@@bluc0bra People with real world experience know that in the real world the theory doesn't survive reality.
On paper you are correct. In the real world, measured capacity equals usable capacity.
Your on paper calculations fail to take into account the losses of the battery's internals.
@@freefall0483 I don't think you understand what I'm saying. I'm not saying the measured capacity in the video is wrong, but that battery capacity is a function of measured voltage AND measured current. Both are measured in the video, you just need to multiply them to get the total power stored in each battery in Watt hours. Internal impedance of the battery is accounted for because both current and voltage are measured. This is not about theory vs. reality, it's about interpreting your measurements correctly.
@@bluc0bra What if some of the rated storage of the cell is consumed by the electronics that drop the voltage? Do you think that maybe the rated cell capacity might not be the same as the actual consumable energy.
Very nice video ! The more you know the better prepared you are. Thanks for sharing your electronic discoveries with us!
Thanks for taking the time, and the teardown.
Thanks a lot. i always wondered what it looked like inside
Thank you for great Attention to Detail. Answered a lot of my questions about lo-ion in AA Format.
what makes you think these are lithium-ion ?
@@stevejones9717 its a 13430 li-ion battery with a circuit board
Great job. the advantage of this battery is, unlike NiMh, it produces a steady 1.5 volts over it's lifetime, but the downside, being lithium it goes from 1.5 to dead.no low battery warning
Oh that explains a lot I was wondering why my GBA would not give me the low power warning when they get low. Using EBL's USB AA'S
Satisfied my curiosity also. Thanks for the video.
I stumbled on this video because I have the same battery set and I was dumbfounded when I saw it's butt light up blue when it's charging. I didn't think an LED would fit inside a battery this small, but the teardown proved me wrong.
(I'm just so used to conventional disposable batteries that I didn't think this kind of improvement in battery tech would be introduced in the market)
One of the best videos reviews about this type of cells. Thanks so much for the great job.
Great teardown! I have to say, though, I disagree that the vendor is "mostly honest". While 2.775 Wh is indeed what's listed on the internal Li battery, you show clearly that the delivered energy is only 2.475 Wh -- the rest being lost due to inefficiency of the voltage converter. Since there is no way to recover this heat energy, the capacity of this battery should be listed at 2.475 Wh.
True
Very interesting, that little circuit in the battery is just regulating the Voltage to 1.5. This would make it impossible to know how much capacity is actually left in the battery. The would be good for flashlight since it could keep them bright, but the flashlight would just die without any hints. This would definitely need their specialty charger to work. It would have been nice if you checked the charging Voltage.
The quality of the battery is amazing.
i didn't know buk lau had a channel! amazing!
Very good, thanks for the teardown.
I would like to see a shootout with Kentli vs deleepow vs tenavolt
That was very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Great teardown and explanation. Tx for trying them on the Opus charger, that was exactly my question too. Liked & Subbed. Tx!
There are several applications where I'd gladly trade ~20% of the Eneloop's capacity for a constant 1.5 volts from full to dead, like cheap bike lights. I don't use disposables, and the Ni-MH cells aren't even 1.5 at full charge! My only complaint is that it's not 1.6V (more typical of a fully-charged disposable battery), but again, a steady 1.5V is worth the "loss" of 0.1V. Very cool.
You don't have to trade anything. The TENAVOLT batteries beat the Eneloops! To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. The Eneloop is at a much lower voltage, which makes the mAh comparison rather useless. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop!
Yeah they measure 1.5- volts, the deleepow's measure a bit higher. If you want high output try the altizure line on amazon, they are SUPER cheap in comparison and only have 1600ish mWh, but they output a solid 1.8-1.9 volts. For most LED applications that's fine. "burns twice as bright for half the time" :-)
And it seems to me
you lived your life
as a bike light running at 1.5V
@@RealWorldPolice Moar voltage isn't always the goal though. It depends what they're used in.
@@mranderson978 Elton John?
Wow, great video. They put a round LiPO battery wrapped in Kapton tape inside a AA case with a buck converter on top. My Duracell NiMH AA batteries are a little over 2,400 mAH and don't have any electronics needed. I do like that this battery manufacturer had honest specs on their battery, though. I'll stick with Duracell for now.
It's not very honest though when they know that capacity has to run through the step-down circuitry which isn't 100% efficient. The customer shouldn't have to know or care about that - they should advertise the usable power instead of the raw pouch cell capacity.
Very useful video thanks for reviewing these!
6" long sounds familiar ? (1:34) LMAO
Earned my like for that one.
This guy is funny 😁
Yes. Thanks for your review
Thank you for doing this...
Wow pretty interesting, I guess they made a proper lithium AA conversion, it does actually have more watt-hours than an eneloop, however for most AA powered devices they will just use more power at higher voltages so the runtime benefits will vary, a wireless mouse will probably run for longer however your multimeter or clock will not.
Some things I am still curious about: how does the original charger charge the battery? what is the maximum current that can be drawn from the battery?
My el cheapo Logitech wireless mice from a decade ago are extremely frugal in terms of power draw, to the point where I use them as homes of last resort for any disposable cells I end up with (from used equipment, included with new items, etc.). They happily do the "low battery" blink for months, with no issues.
I am trying to figure this out. I bought the tenevolts on amazon, as well as a couple of knock offs. Knock offs are deleepow and altizure. The tenevolts are superior in every way when I run them on some very low wattage under cabinet LED lights. Alkaline Costco/Kirkland brand AA's run 7-10 days, the tenevolts run 6-7 days, the deleepow maybe 3-4 days and the altizure's run for only like 2-3 days. Altizures put out 1.8+ volts and the deleepow and tenevolt put out about 1.5, so you don't get the dim lights like you would with NiMh rechargeables such as eneloop. All of these 3 brands have chargers that look identical and all put out 5 volts, but NONE of them will work with the competitors batteries, or at least their charging indicators don't work. I think they are set to very manufacturer specific output voltages. The tenevolts seem to turn themselves off with the internal circuit and the others have some kind of sensor in them like a normal lipo charger. Putting the altizures for example on my RC car tenergy charger on 1s (1 cell) 3.7v lipo auto charge senses the voltage like normal when applying voltage over 1.5 and I can charge them easily that way (i don't know why his charger had an issue, probably because it tries to auto sense wheras I can set the charger to LiPo mode only). anyway that's likely all confusing and I should make my own video comparing them all. If you want a set of these get the tenevolts and their own charger. I am off to try to charge them in my 18650 charger now!
@@gagegr just got some of the cheap alizure batteries but did not buy their charger since I already have a smart charger and it will charge them up to their normal 3.7 volts I'm unsure if this will damage the internal circuitry or not
I don't know about these Tenavolt ones but some of the very first batteries of this style actually had two terminals at the positive end; the charger contacts a recessed ring connector around the normal protruding nipple which provides the 1.5v output. If you look up Kentli batteries you'll see what I mean. I imagine regular chargers won't work because they'll just contact to what is the 1.5V output circuitry.
Love the teardown!
Inside of this is a small Lithium-Ion battery of 3.7 Volt, and the voltage regulating circuit keeps the Voltage stable at 1.5V. These Constant-Voltage batteries like Tenavolts, Hixon, Kentli, Jugee, Mrupoo are NOT Recommended for Audio, Radio, or very sensitive devices because the buck converter produces radio frequency noise and ripple voltage. The charger delivers 5V (you can't use regular charges). The total power of the cell is capacity is: 1.5V x 1650mAh = 2475mWh.
Ottima riflessione che vedo poco in giro.
Questa soluzione usa elettronica di tipo switching e quindi la tensione in uscita non è "pulita" come avviene in genere con le pile. Le cose più disturbate possono essere gli strumenti di misura su cui consiglio di non usarle
I have these and they come with a normal USB charger now. No weird plug. Work great on anything that needs the voltage like battery operated front door lock.
Joel, are they any good for RC cars ?
@@luissimoes8106 They are great for the controllers of my Tamiya cars. NiMH always show low voltage on the radios where these don't. They are outlasting my NiMH batteries in the front door use significantly so they should last a long time in lower drain devices as well.
@@Therealjmhinkle don't know "what to do"...🤔 I have a set of Sorbo 1.5 V lipo USB rechargeable ones ones and, in older cars don't work, In recent cars you don't see that bigger punch like when we swap from Alkaline for Ni Mh;
So, until anyone make that comparison I'm stopped... thinking in Eneloop or Duracell...🤷♂️😁😉
Someone that has tested this question I have ,that can help . 1) will mixing AA/AAA BATTERIES DISPOSABLE with either one of the following the Ni-cd , NI-MH , or the new li-on recharging batteries will it damage the batteries if used on toys , electronics in a single or multi use will any get damage or won’t allow recharge after a usage due to some factors or differences of voltages but being new or freshly recharge to be use ? I tested and one damage but I wonder why didn’t the chip inside the lithium kick in !? Many won’t even get to test this but I have to ask 😂 it might help us even when some manuales instructions don’t mention to avoid this and only say to DONT USE NEW AND OLD BATTERIEs
I was looking for a test like this. These are excellent for applications where 1.2V isn't enough to drive the load. Usually you would have to switch to single use batteries. Seems like the capacity is acceptable as well.
One example is the Franklin stud sensor 710. Needs alkaline or 1.5V lithium
Very cool! Thanks for the video
That silver stuff is the same as they use to enclose pouch cells. Stay safe, my friend.
I figured I went a bit too far! :D
i did this when if first took apart my first li-ion battery, only find later that it is in fact carcinogenic. one of my facepalm moments
@@carlos2004 I hope you washed your hand before the facepalm, tho.
great video! did you find another charger for the lithium aa battery, that also test mah capacity?
I have that Opus charger, it works great.
RE.. Debate over these being Lithium vs Lithium ION. I contacted the company directly on Facebook via messenger to confirm and the company told me these are "Lithium Ion" which makes sense. I did this because Lithium batteries cannot be recharged (difficult and risky to do) due to density among other things. Lithium Ion batteries can easily be re-charged. It does say only "Lithium" on the battery but if you don't want to take my word (or General Scientific knowledge for that matter), then please reach out to the company yourself. They are very quick to respond. My guess is they are calling it Lithium for short to distinguish it from other brands. it does Technically contain Lithium.
Li-Ion is better than NiMH in every way. im happy to see these on the market
How long do the AA/AAA 1.5v USB-rechargeable lithium batteries last for after they've been fully charged and put "on the shelf" before they're flat? (Because of the step-down circuit always being on.)
Cool review
Great video, thanks so much for that.
Nice tear down. Several of these on the market now. A side by side comparison of capacity would be nice to separate the premium brands from the garbage. --The only debate is among the uninformed.
Li-ion (lithium Ion ) batteries are rechargeable. standard lithium (lithium metal) are a 1 time use. The Eneloop are Ni-MH (Nickle Metal Hydrid) batteries that run at 1.2 volts and too low of a voltage for some devices that only use 1 battery. But they are also rechargeable.
Very interesting, but I am still at a loss as to which AA 1.5v rechargeable battery to buy for my Oculus Quest 2 controllers.
Get these. They don't take long to charge and you get 4 so when the first two go dead you can put the next two in the controllers. Just charge them regularly
Very nice eval video!
Would you be willing to test the Jugee and Kentli batteries to see how they compare?
It cannot be charged with other charger there is some compatibility with the battery even if its a Li-ion charger, eventually the charger included in the package corroded easily, tried to clean and open it up and see nothing special. Hope you can try also tearing it down and check what make its special.. You can also consider a brand called KENTLI. they seems to be the same... this will hit market like a storm and those disposable batteries will no longer be around... the chip within the battery is really fascinating.i thought it will explode like Li-po when you reach the smell of sweet tear downed Li-ion Great video!!!
A basic or decent battery charger like he has has to guess what battery he is putting in it. It is guessing it is a 1.5 Volt battery which it is. But at 1.5 Volts it thinks the battery is pretty much fully charged. Inside of this battery is a small typical lithium ion battery rated at 3.7V which you normally charge up to 4.2 Volts. The charger doesn't know this. The charger made by the same company of the battery knows what to do. It would be nice if he measured the charging Voltage. It is probably just putting up to 4.2 Volts. Looking at questions on Amazon, some people asked if the charger would also charge NiMh batteries. The company replied no.
Nobody covers the non-rechargable 3.6 AA batteries
I bet most never heard of them
They're great for things that can handle 3+v or 12v with 4 AA. For remotes etc. They last forever in many items. Yes slightly more voltage but generally improving on performance. No matter what item you put it in or add in series with regular AA with the 3.6volt AA
Thanks for the review, Im looking into possibly buying these for a vr controller.
Did you ever buy it? Im watching this as im installing them in my quest controllers, ill let you know if any problems arise but they're seeming to be worth every penny so far. I advise to buy 2 so when the batt gets to 2 bars, you can charge them and instantly insert 2 new ones
@@corvidconfidential8826 I ended up buying a different brand I found for cheaper. Lower capacity though and has the charging brains build into the cell, charges via usb. They seem to be working so far it seems like I got around 5 hours off a charge which I'm hoping is a fluke.
@@vgamedude12 a bad fluke? I haven't used them long enough to see how long it stays, but do you also use them till they die? I use batteries until they are on 2 bars, so I'm sure this brand is perfect as it seems to have more charge. I hate changing batteries on the quest as I have a skin on the grips, so the longer the charge... the better.
Btw, what VR set do yah have?
@@corvidconfidential8826 I have the odyssey+. I meant fluke because for some reason my left controller stopped tracking and the lights got dim but the right one was working fine. I took both sets out and recharged them to full, since then I have only played about an hour though.
One other thing, with the lipo batteries since they are constant 1.5v until shutoff the battery indicators do not work correctly, at least not on my headset. I get constant 3 out of 4 bar charge report.
@@vgamedude12 mine has been used mostly since I replied first, just stopped to charge the headset, and I only played beat saber + pistol whip but my batt level has stayed at 3 the whole time. Tracking never degraded and it already is lasting longer than a normal AA. Hate to say it but you might want to see if it's the batteries, depending on *how* much cheaper they were might be a factor. :c
Could be a quest thing too, I've only had a quest and know nothing else about VR so I could be wrong.
Wow. Great review.
Thank you
very interesting. I might give them a try. thanks
Great work, very interesting!
Great teardown, thanks! Do you know what the maximum discharge current of these batteries is? I am considering purchasing them for use in a camera flash so am looking for something with a high discharge rate to bring down the recycle time of the flash.
check out projectfarm's video which is more recent and includes a bunch of brands tested fully. i actually saw that first and found this video because i was curious about how it was built.
6 inches!!! 😂 Thank you for the information. This batteries should work well with my high output torch.
Hello, sir. Which Lithium 1.5v battery do you consider the best? I"m trying to decide which to buy between Tenavolts, Deleepow, EBL.
Anyone else refresh the page a few times when the video "froze" at 2:09? Or am I the only idiot?
Thanks.
Nice
Nice!
Gj man!
Oh man you opened a fully charged cell right? I haven't got the balls or guts to do that lol. Isn't it best to open them fully discharged, or half discharged (for lithium based)? I mean in case it does explode it'll be least impactful?
what voltage right up to the nipple of the JUGEE battery does it use? USB 5V? (Of course there is a voltage regulator bucking down the voltage to 1.5 v )
But I'm curious as to what the Voltage at the charger terminal with or without the JUGEE battery load ?
AWESOME VIDEO !!!!
why you put Lithinum 1.5V battery on Charger divices but it 's not working until using there own Charger? Let me explain
The charging devices is used for Ni-NH battery, maxinum output is 1.5V
But The Lithinum baterry using 2 Voltage: 1.5V output way, but input way uses 5V. Cause they use that green pcb to control Input and output Voltage.
Unlike Ni-NH ,or Li-on 3.7V 18650,... Batery, they use 1.2V-1.5V to charge themselves.
And one more thing, The Lithinum Battery when it get low, they suddenly drop 1.5V > 1.1V or 0V, not like Ni-NH or Alkadelin, drop down slowly
Unfortunately, not sold on Amazon. Does the Tenavolts last longer than the Eneloop batteries?
They are sold on Amazon now. Where the Tenavolts really shines is not the capacity but the base voltage of 1.5v that's the same as alkaline, where NiMH is around 1.2v. Some electronic devices are voltage sensitive. I have a Bosch GLM 15 laser tape measure that uses AAA and it would work for a couple of minutes on fully charged NiMH batteries. I thought the device was defective until I put in normal alkaline batteries and it works for a lot longer.
I wanna buy those circuits and build my own :/
Any closeup on the circuit? Or any idea what it is made off?
Great video!
It's just a very small "buck converter". Also known as a DC-DC step down converter. You can buy them pretty cheap but they are not this small, but fairly small.
I have modified a lot of my kid's toys to use lithium batteries (18650 and other sizes) using either a step down or step up converters depending on requirement.
@@moes2168 Ive worked with the lm2596 before. But something as tiny as this that fits the diameter of a small cell would be great for some projects.
Have you opened the other AA batteries? What is the two brands and which one was best?
The Eneloops are nickel metal hydride. Not much to learn inside those, I'm afraid.
Thanks very much. Great videos.
Wow that looks like a quality product.....
Where to buy? Look interesting
There is a lithium titanate rechargeable AA with a usb charger built in the battery. They are on amazon. LTO claim to have 20000 cycles.
LTO looks badass, comrade. The most impressive part for me (a Eurosquatter north of the "Medicine Line") is how it performs in sub-zero temps. My ideal lithium ebike battery would be LTO, energy density be damned!
Maybe yes but you must known that lithium battery last just for few years even without charging cycle. So, do you plan charging every day?
@@madhouses Virtually all ebike batteries are one lithium chemistry or another. What do you suggest as an alternative? Lead-acid? LOL
I have one question about that. While NiMH batteries getting empty, they loose voltage. Than the device which is using that battery, decides to shut down for example @0.9V. So what happens these Li-ion batteries getting empty? Does it cut the current instantly like pulling of the battery? Isn't it harmfull for devices driven with software? Isn't it confusing for these devices, there is 1.5V but it can't boot up?
It'll cut the power because it doesn't provide enough current even though it's still 1.5V.
@@vuaeco so isn't it a problematic situation for host device? Let's say it is an xbox controller. It will measure 1.5V, will it try to wake up repeatedly, forever? Or it will wake up but when it try to use vibration motors will it cut off?
@@mhakanalim Its fine in my experience. I use them in LED lights that have all sorts of controls and patterns and they just go super dim. Xbox will be A-OK too (we have one at home).
keran bang
I'm terribly curious to know what's going on in the charger. USB = 5v and 4 x 1.5v = 6v
..which is completely opposite of what it needs if the charger is stepping up the charge voltage.
Hmm...
OH!! I bet you that they are NOT stepping up the charge voltage. I bet they are charging all 4 at 5 volts, and divided the 2.4 amps between all 4 batteries, so .8 amps charge per battery.
yeah, they charge like normal li ion batteries. so basically constant current for the first part and then constant voltage of 4.2 to top them off. the little chip on the circuit handles it all. so it's basically like those 18650 boards that make them into a usb powerbank, but the difference here is that instead of stepping up to 5v, it uses a converter to step down to 1.5 on the output
@@carlos2004 I've since bought two different brands. I don't mind the weird charging configuration so much as the fact that each brand has to use it's own charger. THAT'S a bit of a PITA.
provide link where you buy it
So did you manage to reassemble it ?
:-)
No, it was damaged. I went too far. :D
This dude is boss. Gonna slice open a lithium ion battery. Nah I don't need protective gloves or eyewear or nothing...
These batteries are similar to cell phone batteries. The charger and batteries have proprietary electronics to control charge and discharge.
It is regulating the Voltage of a 3.7V battery to 1.5V. Nothing too special. it needs a special charger that knows what this battery is doing though. A typical charger won't work on this.
Look for tablet chargers. I used to have a BlackBerry PlayBook, and the charger was 5V @ 2A. Man, that thing used to charge my Xperia Ray so fast!
Yep. Only tablets have 2A chargers. All phone chargers have 1A or less.
@@vuaeco well not in this day of age, my stock phone charger charges at 5V 4A. My Substitute can deliver 4,5V 5A or 5V 4,5A
Hi, what diameter in mm does It have each battery?
Probably don't want to do extreme close up of your fingers.
FYI these rechargeable lithium batteries are not recommended for use with avalanche transceivers.
Li battery out side it is mentioned 1.5 v... Inside it is mentioned as 3.7 v..
Why ?
These are lithium ion batteries, the same kind on you phones, these typically output a voltage of 3.7V / cell. these batteries have a Buck converter (DC to DC converter) that lower the output voltage and maintains it at a constant 1.5V. So if you do the math 2775mWh / 3.7V = 750 mAh @ 3.7v but after the converter 2775mwh / 1.5V = 1850 mAh @ 1.5 V. So these batteries are actually not than far off from Ni-MH rechargable batteries because those output at 1.2V and they are rated at 2000mAh typically so 2000mAh * 1.2V = 2400mWh.
These batteries are geeat. For use in oculus controllers they last a LONG time. Regular batteries die in 2-3 days
Funny bastard. Great video.
i desperately need this but can't find them in my country.
They are on Amazon, I imagine eBay has them also.
Has anyone used these in a Sega GameGear or Atari Lynx? They seem awesome but the only issue I would see is if they hold a constant 1.5 volts until theyre dead and they dont gradually weaken, you could be close to beating a game when your console suddenly dies without warning.
these things dont work in any of my 1.5v cameras.. wtf
No. Maybe 8 inches.
It's not about the inches but how you use it.
@@vuaeco. You are asian right?
No it does not look familiar..
Correct! It sounds familiar! :D
@@vuaeco lol
What? 6 inch? Haha
Kinda amusing that you did a tear down, but instead of analysing the controller board (as I was expecting), you instead start pulling apart the actual 3.7v lithium cell. Argh!
Never ever charge non rechargeable batteries, especially Lithium batteries, anything bad could happen.
These are not just "Lithium" batteries. These are Lithium Ion batteries. These Chinese companies just aren't advertising it right.
it is NOT lithium ION. good God.
What do you think it is?
@@vuaeco a lithium battery. which is exactly what it says on the battery and which is exactly what it says on amazon. show me where it says "ION" anywhere in the description of them.
@@stevejones9717 Wrong.. these are Lithium Ion. I contacted the company myself via Facebook. Lithium batteries cannot be re-charged. (Technically it may be possible but it's difficult and not safe to do). Lithium ion batteries can be recharged easily and safely. I contacted the company on facebook for clarity and they confirmed these are Lithium ion. Calling it a lithium battery doesn't negate them being lithium ion as it still contains "Lithium". Please reach out to them yourself on Facebook as I did, and they will confirm these are LION batteries if you won't take my word for it. They are quick to respond.
The capacity of these batteries are terrible. Less than AAA batteries. They have 3x less capacity than the cheapest AA alkaline battery...that's what Tenavolt and Amazon (suppresses reviews) won't tell you. Don't believe me? Then you don't know how to do BASIC math.
Absolute lie from someone with no experience on these. They will outlast any NiMH battery in a setting that needs voltage for power such as thermostats, cameras and front door locks. NiMH batteries are the ones playing games with your mind because they want you to believe they last longer while only supplying 1.2 volts. In reality they won't power devices beyond remotes and wall clocks for very long at all. I've put these through the test and they are far better than the Eneloop pro and Fujitsu Black. Don't even mention the crap white label stuff.
Yeah look at the mWh not the Mah since the eneloops run such low voltage. The real world answer is it depends on usage, if you are in a high draw device these can supply high voltage longer. They don't fade to black like eneloops and similar NiMH
Bro do some Math that you claim you can do. 2775mWh / 1.5 V = 1850mAh, these are higher if you consider Ni-MH output at 1.2 V and will continue to drop in voltage with a rated mAh of 2000 so around 2400mWh so yes these last a lot longer than that.
A lot of you guys are confused with the mWh rating. That is indeed a little dirty trick. Don't compare that to mAh. You would take the average operating Voltage, times the mAh to get the final overall power storing capacity of a battery. A typical rechargeable AA battery is rated at 1.2 Volts, a typical Lithium Ion battery is rated at 3.7 Volts. it is rated at 3.7 Volts, but fully charged is usually 4.2V. The rechargeable AA batteries start at higher than 1.2V when fully charged but when discharging they will stay in the 1.2V range for a long time.
There are several applications where I'd gladly trade ~20% of the Eneloop's capacity for a constant 1.5 volts from full to dead, like cheap bike lights. I don't use disposables, and the Ni-MH cells aren't even 1.5 at full charge! My only complaint is that it's not 1.6V (more typical of a fully-charged disposable battery), but again, a steady 1.5V is worth the "loss" of 0.1V. Very cool.
Right on! Eneloop has more capacity but it goes down to 0.9V on the low end. This stays at 1.5V the entire discharge cycle.
This is my issue with rechargables as well. No NiMH lasts long in high drain devices. These batteries are working extremely well for me in the same situations.
@@vuaeco I don't understand saying that the Eneloop's have more capacity. To compare the two you need to use mWh, not mAh, as the Eneloops operate at much lower voltage. The TENAVOLT was 2475 mWh, vs. Eneloop's typical 2300 - 2400 mWh. Total power is actually lower for the Eneloop.
@@vuaeco there is a cheap knockoff of the tenevolts on amazon called "altizure" and they put out 1.8-1.9 volts, unifortunately they last less than half as long in my low wattage LED usage. The Altizure only has about 1600 mWh
@@Therealjmhinkle Plenty of NiMH last long at high drain. 2Ah cells can take a 2-4 amp drain or more. The equipment is the problem. Don't design a 2 cell high drain device to stop working at 2V, or perform badly at 2.2. The device needs to operate over a range of voltage (0.9-1.6V per cell) and a lot of equipment is too badly or cheaply designed to do this.
Nice