I have to admit. Your method for welding a loop on fly line is incredible. I just did it within seconds and I also tested the strength and I must say it's superb. Whoever doesn't like your video is jealous that they didn't think of it. Thank You so much 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for your gr8 video. I got a question, I'm new to fly fishing and I got an used fly line without loops, my question is how do I do to define the right end to attach to my baking?
hey. great vid.. although I couldn't get it to work. I ran out, so to speak, and amazon'ed some shrink tubing. Cool product. I followed all your instructions but my fly line never melted to itself. It only flattened the folded over sections hit with the hair straightener. I tried for short periods of heat and very long periods. I'm using the Orvis Pro Textured floating line so maybe there's something with that line that doesn't melt the same as others?? Any thoughts? Work arounds? It's an expensive line and wouldn't replace it just for a welded loop but... I LOVE the welded loop. Not just for ease of tying on new leader but because no matter how flush I trim my nail knot, it's still a pain in the ass to get the knot through all the eyelets EVERYTIME it may come in past them. It adds up after a full day of fishing.
Wow. Who knew? So being an audio engineer, and not a hair dresser, I didn’t have a hair straightener, nor does my GF, who IS a hair dresser, but I had a heat gun that is also adjustable temperature. I set it just above 170, and directed the heat flow to miss the loop but hit the junction and as I have LOTS of heat shrink of every kind and size known to man, I used the smallest clear tube that the fly line could fit into, doubled up. I heated carefully, and watched the fly line melt while the shrink tubing squeezed it all together and just left the heat shrink on the weld. That’s probably going to make a bigger splash and maybe not float, but I didn’t have scissors small enough to cut it off. I might cut it off and reduce the length of shrink tube and try again if this loop does the aforementioned splash and sink, at least on my new floating tip for my skaget line, but I think the sink tips won’t care. Nor will the fish when I Spey cast this mess 30 yards across the river and up stream from the swing! Thanks for the education!
Just came across this video so you may have figured it out, but I believe 3/32 more like a 2.38mm (3/32 x 25.4 = 2.38) and if so it should work as they sell a 2.4mm for single-hand and 4.8mm for two-hand. Double check my calculation but I think you are good with what you have.
As I can see how its done it only is there to put pressure on the melting core and protect it from too much heat and burning it. So if you can fit the line in your shrink tube it will work.
This is insanely helpful!!!!!! I personally love the welded loops and loop to loop connections. I've got to try this. Have you noticed any difference in how different brands of lines weld?
Hi Philip The biggest difference is what density the line has, not so much which brand. A fast sinking line (more tungsten in the coating) requires more heat. Snowbee lines requires less heat (softer coating). Lines with a mono core usually requires less heat, but you have to be very careful with mono core lines, it is easy to damage the core...
Melted plastic just doesn’t seem strong enough. Unless the core is tied… It just doesn’t seem strong. Might be OK for trout and other small freshwater species. I would not trust that for salmon or anything salt water. One thought is to put one or two nail knots/needle nail knots as tight as you can get them right on top of the weld. That would Lock both sides of the core together (running end and working end).
This is how the loops are made on all fly lines you buy. I have used this on lines used for bonefish an permit. But as you write I would not use it on fly lines for gt, tarpon or other large fish.
I just did this and puller really hard. It did not fail, but then again, being a certified welder of METAL, I’m aware of what a real good weld requires, and using good glasses so I could see the lines melt into each other, I know the two are now one. No separation between the 2. I also left the heat shrink on the weld for extra added strength because I’m going after steelhead and salmon. If this fails under the pull of a monster, I’ll be going back to the old fashioned nail knot and mono loop extension and head cement. I think this should work tho. You can try pulling it with a scale to test it next attempt? Get some really good glasses do you can see the line material melt and you must have small enough heat shrink so it clamps and squeezes the line together into one line.
@@flyshopsweden Is it necessery to take the whole shrink tube after heating ? or maybe leaving the fragment around the loop (2-3 cm), which sticks nicely around fly line will give extra strength to that loop ?
WOW, I have been wondering how to do this for ages... Finally someone has done it. THANK YOU SO MUCH!! 😁
I have to admit. Your method for welding a loop on fly line is incredible. I just did it within seconds and I also tested the strength and I must say it's superb. Whoever doesn't like your video is jealous that they didn't think of it. Thank You so much 🙏🙏🙏
Hair straighter is genius
will this work if i only have hair straightener on fixed 220 heat? Would it work if I hold it/heat the tube for shorter time?
Thanks Rene, awesome video.
Thank you!
Works great!! Thank you for the clip. The fly line I just looped is going to be rigged on the #4 Rodwalker I bought from you.
Now that was slick
What the heck lol, that's awesome!
thanks bud for this tip!🙏
Ooo!!!! Great method!!! Whats is the size of the hair streightners? How many cm?
You can use any good clear(you can see if it's melter) heat tubing with the right diameter.
No, you can not! If the shrinking temperature of the tubing is to high you will burn the fly line coating.
Amazing
Thank you for your gr8 video.
I got a question, I'm new to fly fishing and I got an used fly line without loops, my question is how do I do to define the right end to attach to my baking?
Hi Salem
The end where the first 9 or so Meters of the line are level is the end to be attached to the backing.
hey. great vid.. although I couldn't get it to work. I ran out, so to speak, and amazon'ed some shrink tubing. Cool product. I followed all your instructions but my fly line never melted to itself. It only flattened the folded over sections hit with the hair straightener. I tried for short periods of heat and very long periods. I'm using the Orvis Pro Textured floating line so maybe there's something with that line that doesn't melt the same as others?? Any thoughts? Work arounds? It's an expensive line and wouldn't replace it just for a welded loop but... I LOVE the welded loop. Not just for ease of tying on new leader but because no matter how flush I trim my nail knot, it's still a pain in the ass to get the knot through all the eyelets EVERYTIME it may come in past them. It adds up after a full day of fishing.
For old school nail knots get some Loon UV knot sense glue. Use just enough to cover that tag end and enjoy no more annoying knot jams!
@@FlyfishermanMike great idea. Do I need a UV light to make it work?
@@JoshEthanJohnson no, just some direct sunlight!
That is just Awsome....Thankyou.
Wow. Who knew? So being an audio engineer, and not a hair dresser, I didn’t have a hair straightener, nor does my GF, who IS a hair dresser, but I had a heat gun that is also adjustable temperature. I set it just above 170, and directed the heat flow to miss the loop but hit the junction and as I have LOTS of heat shrink of every kind and size known to man, I used the smallest clear tube that the fly line could fit into, doubled up. I heated carefully, and watched the fly line melt while the shrink tubing squeezed it all together and just left the heat shrink on the weld. That’s probably going to make a bigger splash and maybe not float, but I didn’t have scissors small enough to cut it off. I might cut it off and reduce the length of shrink tube and try again if this loop does the aforementioned splash and sink, at least on my new floating tip for my skaget line, but I think the sink tips won’t care. Nor will the fish when I Spey cast this mess 30 yards across the river and up stream from the swing! Thanks for the education!
Slalom.
Veryj nice 👏 👏 👏 👏
Thanks!
Rene, have you tried Also to weld fly line to polyleader? I mean without loop
Hi
I have not. I think the problem would be that the core of the polyleader is made out of nylon and it is very sensitive to heat..
What size shrink tubing are you using? I have 3/32 (2mm) but not sure if that will work?
Just came across this video so you may have figured it out, but I believe 3/32 more like a 2.38mm (3/32 x 25.4 = 2.38) and if so it should work as they sell a 2.4mm for single-hand and 4.8mm for two-hand. Double check my calculation but I think you are good with what you have.
As I can see how its done it only is there to put pressure on the melting core and protect it from too much heat and burning it. So if you can fit the line in your shrink tube it will work.
This is great. What diameter of shrink tubing are you using if you don’t mind me asking ?
2,4mm för singel hand lines
short and great video! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hello, does it work with euro braid level lines? thanks
thank u so much. Where Can I get the tube??
www.flyfishingmasters.se/en/krympslang
Great advice, thx!
This is insanely helpful!!!!!! I personally love the welded loops and loop to loop connections. I've got to try this. Have you noticed any difference in how different brands of lines weld?
Hi Philip
The biggest difference is what density the line has, not so much which brand. A fast sinking line (more tungsten in the coating) requires more heat. Snowbee lines requires less heat (softer coating). Lines with a mono core usually requires less heat, but you have to be very careful with mono core lines, it is easy to damage the core...
It does not work on running line for spey setup. I just tried it right now, but definitely works on any fly line.
Is that 170 degrees Centigrade or Fahrenheit? 170 degrees Fahrenheit wasn't hot enough to melt the line together.
Michael Serlet centigrades...
Melted plastic just doesn’t seem strong enough. Unless the core is tied… It just doesn’t seem strong. Might be OK for trout and other small freshwater species. I would not trust that for salmon or anything salt water.
One thought is to put one or two nail knots/needle nail knots as tight as you can get them right on top of the weld. That would Lock both sides of the core together (running end and working end).
This is how the loops are made on all fly lines you buy. I have used this on lines used for bonefish an permit. But as you write I would not use it on fly lines for gt, tarpon or other large fish.
That's why I strip the plastic off, to the core,coat with aquaseal,whip finish with kevlar thread,and a final coat of aquaseal.
Does this work with a fly line that has a multifilament core? Like in the SA amplitude smooth series.
I have the same question…
Does this work well with both PVC and Polyurethane?
Yes, it does.
Wow!
Tried that but pulled apart with little pressure. Prob only good for pan fish
I certianly wouldn't trust it on the Brown trout around me.
I just did this and puller really hard. It did not fail, but then again, being a certified welder of METAL, I’m aware of what a real good weld requires, and using good glasses so I could see the lines melt into each other, I know the two are now one. No separation between the 2. I also left the heat shrink on the weld for extra added strength because I’m going after steelhead and salmon. If this fails under the pull of a monster, I’ll be going back to the old fashioned nail knot and mono loop extension and head cement. I think this should work tho. You can try pulling it with a scale to test it next attempt? Get some really good glasses do you can see the line material melt and you must have small enough heat shrink so it clamps and squeezes the line together into one line.
Thanks!
170 celsius or faranheight?
Celsius
increible metodo , 👏👏
Can you apply this to running lines ?
Yes you can.
@@flyshopsweden Is it necessery to take the whole shrink tube after heating ? or maybe leaving the fragment around the loop (2-3 cm), which sticks nicely around fly line will give extra strength to that loop ?
🤝👍👏
Do this works on all type of fly lines?
The line should have a dacron core
I’m not sure I’d trust it for the tarpon I throw to.
Guess I have to buy a hair straightener ...
No way... im trying this tomorrow
What ever happened to the blood 🪢